Travels through North and South Carolina, Georgia, East and West Florida, the Cherokee country, the extensive territories of the Muscogulges, or Creek confederacy, and the country of the Chactaws; containing an account of the soil and natural productions of those regions; together with observations on the manners of the Indians ..

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4^1

TRAVELS

NORTH AND SOUTH CAROLINA,

GEORGIA,

EAST AND WEST FLORIDA,

THE CHEROKEE COUNTRY,

THE EXTtWSiVii iTERRITORlES OF THE MUSCOGULGES
OR cKXi:.!^ coim:r>EiVi-^c-i-,

AND THE COUNTRY OF THE CHACTAWS.

CONTAINING

AN ACCOUNT OF THE SOIL AVD NATURAl PRODUC-
TIONS OF THOSE REGION'S;

TOGLTHER WITH
OBSERVATIONS ON THK MANNERS OF THI INDIANS,

EMBELLISHED WITH COPPER-PLATES.

c^ Lo G> u 0

By WILLIAM BARTRAM,

DUBLIN:
*-^ For J. MgoRE, W. Jones, R. M'AtfcJUER, AND J. RiCt,

I793.

« ♦% ■»

X." * » •►«v

Biology LiUnujr

CONTENTS,

PARTI. ^r. n.

INTRODUCTION. ^J "2, 9 ^{^ '^

CHAP. I.

The Author embarks at Philadelphia — arrives at Charlcfion Page I
CHAP. II.

Embarks again for Georgia and arrives at Savanna — proceeds South\^'ard
and arrives at Sunburn- — oblervations on the town, harbour, and ifland of
St. Catharine, its foil .ind producfticns — account of the eftablifhment of St.
John's diftri(51: and Midway mecting-houfe — defcription of a beautiful fifti
— rproceeds for tht river Alataniaha, defcription of a tremendous thupder
ftorm 4

CHAP. III.

Crofies the river at Fort Barrington and arrives at St. Ille — palTes the
frontier fettlenients and meets an hoftilc Indian — croffesthc river St. Mary
and arrivc> at the trading-houfe, account of the country thereabout, its
natural produClions, of the lake Ouaquaphenogaw, faid to be the fource of

the river St. Mary rctnmc »o thn A\:,tnrr,nh^ cnA thnnrp tn .Savanna t6

CHAP. IV.

Sets off from Savanna to Augufta, one hundred fixty-five miles North-
Weft from the fea coaft — dcfcribcs the face of the country, the river Sa-
vanna, the catnra(5ls ard village of AuguftaT— congrefs with the Indians at
St. Augufta — the village of Wrightfborough on Little River — mc^uments
of an ancient Indian town on Little River — Buffaloc Lick — begins the
furvey of the New Purchafe — high proof of Indian fagacity — returns to
Savauna 2S

CHAP. V.

The Author leaves Brougbton ifland and afcends the Alatamaha — night
fccne — a tempcft — defcription of the river — ruins of an ancient fortifica-
tion— Indian monuments at the Oakmulge fields — Creeks, account of their
fettlcmtnt in Georgia /^y

PART II.

CHAP. I.

Eet« ofT from Sava.;ina to Eaft Florida, proceeding by land to the Ala-

famalia — defcends that river to Frederica on the ifland of St. Simon's — -

defcribes the ifland and the city 55

CHAP. II.

Leaves Frederica for the lower trading-houfe on St. Juan's. — paffc?

through and defcribes the found. Sec. 6 1

C H A P. III.

Leaves Amelia ifland and arrives at the Cowford, on the river Sr,

Juan's — proceeds up ilie river alone in a fmall canoe ; fuffers by a gale nf

wind in crofling the river; is hofpitably entertained at a gentleman's

houfe, where be refits and fails again — defcribes fort Picolata — various

productions, viz. Magnolia grandiflora, Tillandfia ufneadfcites, floating

fields of the Piftia ftratiotc, the river and cuuntry, touches at Charldtte-

ville — arrives at the lower trading-houfe 68

C H A P. IV.

Proceeds farther up the river — paflcs by Mount Hope, and comes to ar

Mount Royal — defcribes the mount, Indian highway, &;c.^beautifui

Jdiiiiii :«pc of the country ard prcfpecl of ti>e lake — enters Lake George —

deUript'Oi-

ZG (0 0 0

iV CONTENTS.

defcrlption of the lake — forced by flrefs of weather to put into the beautiful

ille Edelano, dcfcription of the ifland, ancient Indian town, mount and

highway — croffes over the lake and arrives at the upper trading-houfe 95

CHAP. V.

Provides for continuing his voyage higher up the river, engages an In-
dian to aflifl: in navigating his bark, and fcts fail, the Indian becomes tired
and requefts to be fct on fhore — encamps at a delightful Orange grove —
continues again alone up the river : defcription of the Palma Elata : enters
the Little Lake, and comes to camp at an Or?nge grove — fight of alligators ;
a battle with them ; great embarrafTmcnts with them ; kills one : vaft
affemblage of fiih : defcription of the alligator and its nefl, &c. — defcribes
the Carica papaya — a very curious bird — in danger of being taken napping
by a huge crocodile — the banks of the river admirably ornamented with
fefloons and tapeftry, the work of nature — fepulchres of the ancients — a
hurricane — vifitsa plantation on the banks of the Long Lake; defcription
of the lake, a large fulphureous fountain — account of the founding and
prefent ftate of New Smyrna, on the Mufquitoe river — returns down the
river — Eail Lake — curious birds and a beautiful fill: — leaves Cedar Point,
touches at the ifle of Palms; robbed by a wolf — arrives at Six Mile Springs
— an account ot that admiranic louniam — aeftribcs the Gordonia, Zamia,
Caeftus opuntia, Erythrina, Cacalia, &c. — touches at Rocky Point — ar-
rives again at the lower trading-houfe. l ■ a
CHAP. VI.

Proceeds on a journey to Cufcowilla — defcrlbesthe country and waters
'— Annona incana, Annona pygmea, Kalmia ciliata, Empetrum album,
Andromeda ferruginea, Rhododendron fpurium. Pica glandaria non crif-
tata, Lanius, Lacerta, Snakes, Chionanthus, Andromeda forniofiflima,
Cyrilla — encamps at the Half-way Pond — dcfcribes the pond and meaJows,
a beautiful landfcapc — pilgrimage of fifli — defcribes various kinds of fifh—
great foft fhclled tortoife and great land tortoife — moral refleiflions and
meditations — leaves Half-way Pond and proceeds — fituation, quality, and
furniture of the earth — arrives at Cufcowilla — reception from the Indian
chief : his charaifter — Siminoles predileffiion for Spanilh cufloms and ci-
vilization— India Have?, their condition — departs for the Alachua favanna ;
defcription of the favanna — Siminoles on horfeback — returns to Cufco-
willa— a council and Indian feafl: — defcription of the town and Cufcowilla
lake — returns to the favanna — glafs fnake — makes the tour of the favanna
. — vefages of the ancient Alachua — Orange groves, turkeys, deer, wolves,
favanna crane — arrives at the great bafon or fink — defcription of the fink
— account of the alligators, incredible number of fifti ; their fubterranean
migrations — returns — old Spanifh highv.-ay — Indian village — arrives again
at the trading-houfe on St. Juan's — character and comparifonof the nations
of the Upper Creeks, and Lower or Siminoles 168

CHAP. VII.

Sets out again on a journey to 'I'alahafochte — defcription of the Siminole
horfe — ercamps at an enchanting grotto on the banks of a beautiful lake
— rocky ridges and dcfcrt wilds — engagement between a hawk and *
coach whip fnake — defcription of the fnake — account of the country, grand
Pine forcll — encamps on the borders of an extenfive favanna— defcrij)tion
of the favanjia crane — comes upon the verge of e.\teiifive favannas, lying on
a beautiful lake — the expanfive fields of »Japola, decorated with delightful
groves — fquadrons of Siminole horfes — a troop under the conduvft and care
of an Indian dog — the fields of C.ipola a delightful region — ferruginous
rocks, rich iron ore — arrives at Talahafoclvie on the river Little St. Juan's
— dcfcribes the town and river — lud;..a caiio-.s — ihiir royagfrs and trafiic

— InJiaa

C O N .T E N T S. "^

—Indian voyages to Cuba — a fifliing party and naval race — an eicui'fion in
the Manatee fpring — defcription of that incomparable nynipha;uni — aa
account of the Manatee — crofTes the river to explore the country — Spanifli
remains — vali cane wildernefles — ancient Spanifti plantations — Apalachean
old fields — returns to town — White Kinjr's arrival — a council and fcaft —
charadler of the Icing— -leaves the town on rcfearchcs, and encamps in the
forefls — account of an extraordinary eruption of waters — joins his compa-
nions at camp — entertainment by the White King in Talahafochtc—Contcc,
its preparation and ufe — returns to camp — great defcrt plains — entertain-
ment with a party of young Siminole warriors — various natural wells and
finks; conjectures concerning them — account of the 1-ong Pond, and de-
lightful profpcc'Js adjacent — returns for the trading-houfe at St Juan's —
cmbarraffments occafioned by the wild horfes — cncantps at Bird Ifland
pond — vaft number of wild fowl tending their nefts — engagement with
an alligator who furprifcd the camp by night — obfirvations on the great
Alachua favanna and its environs — arrival at the trading-houfe 21 j

CHAP. vin.

The Author makes an excurfion again up St. Juan's to Lake Georje—
rcvifits SL\ Mile Springs and Ulicium groves, makes collcdions, and re-
crolfes the lake to the EaRt i ii laaft— tK»t fliore ninre bold and rocky than
the oppoiite — coafts round that fliore, toucliing at old defertcd plantations
— Perennial Cotton — Indigo — unpardonable devaftation and neglccft of the
white fcttlcrs, with rcfpcd to the native Orange groves — returns to the
trading-houfi; i£%

C H A P. IX.

Indian warriors, their frolic — curious conference with thf Long War-
rior— ludicrous Indian farce rehtivc to a rattlc-fna'icc — war farce 453

C H A P. X.

Farther account of the rattb-fnake — account and defcription of other
fnakes and animals — catalogue of birds of North America ; obfcrvations
concerning their migration or annual pafl;:ges from Isorth to boulh, and
back again 262

C H A P. XI.

Vifits an Indian village on the river — water nitlon feaft — defcription of
the banqucting-houfe — makes an escurfion acrolstfee river; great dangers
in crofiing ; lands on the oppoiite fliore — difc^ers a bee tree, which
yielded a great quantity of hoiiey — returns to the Ihore — embarks for Fre-
derica in Georgia; vifus the plantations down tlie river; enters the
found and palTes through ; arrives at Frcdcrica — embarks again — -touchei
at Sirnbury — arrives at Ciarle^'ton, South C.iroi'na — meditates a journ<;y
to the Cherokee country and C.eck nation, in Wnl Florida jjl

PART III.

C H A P. 1.
The Author fets out frr the C'nerokee territories — paffes through a fine
cultivated country — crcffes Savanna river and cr.urs the ilate of Georgia
— Dirca paluftrls — covvpens — civil entertainmeuc at a pIan«iion — purfues
the road to Augulla, and rccrofTes the river at Silver Elnff — account of
Mr. Golphin's villa and trading ftor;-«, Silver Blufl", fort ivlcore, Augufta,
Saviinna river, mountains of Lrge folTil oyftcr-(h;lls 306

C H A P.

« CONTENTS.

C H A P. II.

Procerus for fm t James, Dartmouth — curious fpcclcs of Azalea — r rofTes
Broad River — cftabliiTimcnt of Dartmouth — Indian mount, &c. croffcs. Sa-
vanna river — violent guft of rain — curious fpecies of JEiculus paviu — town
of Sinica — ^fort Prince George, Keowe— defcribes the countiy 318

Chap. hi.

Ocone vale — monuments of the ancient town — crofTes the mountains —
their fituation, views, and producftions — refts on the top of Amount Mag-
nolia— difcription of a new and beautiful fpecies of Magnolia — cafcades *f
Falling Creek — thunder florm — head of Tanafee — vale of Cowe — Indian
graves — towns of Echoe, Nucaflee, and Whatoga — nobly entertained by
the Prince of Whatoga — arrives at the town of Cowe — makes an cxcurfioii
with a young trader on the hills of Cowe — incomparable profpcifls— horlc-
flamp — difcovers a company of Cherokee nymphs — a frolic with them —
returns to towc 33 1

CHAP. IV.
Sets off from Whatoga to the Overhill towns — Jore village: — Roaring
Creek-r^the Author and his guide part — furprifcd by an Indian — falute
and part friendly — mountainous vegetable productions — arrives on the
top of Jore mountain — fublime profpetfls — Atta-kul-kulla, grand Cherokee
chief — gracious reception — returns to Cowe — great council-houfe — curious
Indian dance — returns and flops at Sinica — arrives again at fort James,
Dartmouth — liil of Cherokee towns and villages 357

CHAP. V,

Sets off from Dartmouth to the Upper Creeks and Chacflaws country-
Flat Rock — a curious plant — Rocky Comfort — Ocone old Town — migra-
tion of the Ocones — crofles the river — fords the Oakmulge at the Oakniulgf
fields — Stoney Creek — Creat and Little Tabofachte — new fpecies of Hy-
crangia — croffes Flint River — defcribes the country — pcrfecuted by cx-
traordin:iry heats and incredible numbers of biting flics — Hippobofca and
Afilus — extraordinary thunder guft — erodes Ch?ta Uche river— defcribes
the town — very large and populous—proceeds and arrives at the Apalachucla
town — vifits the old town — extraordinary remains and monuments of the
ancients — general face of the country and vegetable produ(5i:Jons — new
fpecies of ifclfculus 373

CHAP. VI.

Proceeds, and after three days journey arrives at Taibfe, on the Talla-
roofc river — Coloome, a handfome town — great plains — turther account
of the countiy — Dog woods — croffcs the river Schambe — conie= to Taenfa
on the Eafl banks of the Mobilo, thirty miles above the city — French in-
habitants— paffc down the river, arrives at the city of Mobile — fbort
account of the city and fort Cond. — returns to 'I'aenfa, and proceeds up
the river as far as the entrance of the Chicafaw branch — floating forclls of
the Nymphxa Nelumbo — vifits the adjacent lands — returns to Mobile — -
goes to ihc river Perdido — continues on to Penfacola — cordially received
■by CJQvrrnor Chcftcr — fome account of the town — difcovers a new and
beautiful fpecies of Sarracenia — returns to Mobile 394

C H A P. VII.

Leaves M'-bilc for Manchac on the MifTiffipp; — proceeds by water tci
Pearl Ifiand-kindly entortained by Mr. Rumfcy--dcfcribesthe ifland— large
crimfon Plum — a delicate fpecies of Mimofa — paiTes li^ic Pontchartrain

•— toucties

CONTENTS. tS

•—touches at the river T^enfapaoa — pafTe"; over Lake Maurepas — proceed*
lip to Iberville — croffes by land to Manchac — goes up the MifTifTippi —
fettlements of New Richmond — White Plains — furious nuifcle flicUsin tht
fiver— croffes over to Point Coupr; — Spanifh village and fortrcfsr— high
cliffs oppofite Point Coupe — returns to the Amite, thence down throiug;fa
the lanks and founds back a~ain to 7tIobiic 416

CHAP. VIII.
Leaves Mobile on his return — proceeds with a company of traders lor
the Creek nation — his horfe tires — is in ereat diftrefs — meets a company
of traders, of whom he purchafes a frefli hoffs — Uliciura groves — meets a
company of emigrants from Georgia — great cnii*;irra.Tniiint at a large
creek fwolicn with late heavy rains — arrive* at the banks of the AUbaaia
— croffes it and arrives at Mucclafle — Indian marriage — ferious reflec-
tions— perilous Qtuation of the trader of AIucclalTe — fets off for Ottaffe —
<lefcribes the country contiguous to the Tallapoofe river — pLntatious and
towns — Coolome — I^Kkabatchc— croffes the rivtr and arrives at Octaflf —
rotunda and ^uai.. — blank drink — fpiral fire — Sabbath or holy day te the
Great Spirit — fets off with a company of traders for Georgia — Chehaw
and Uffeta, Creek towns on the Apa'rchucla river, almolt join each other,
yet the inhabitants fpenU t-wn lannuafrfs radicallv different — arrives at the
Oakmulge— croffes the river in a portable leather boat — croQes the river
Oconne — head branches of Grtat Ogeche — arrives at Augufta — takes
leave of Augufta and his friends there, and proceeds for Savanna — lift of
Mwfcogulgc towns and villages— conjeiiluies concerning tht rife of the
A^ufcogulge cojofcdcracy 433

CHAP. IX.
Short eicurfion in the South of Georgii— makes collcdtions-— gatJicrs
faed of two new and veiy curious ftirubs 465

C H A P. X.

Proceeds for Charlcfton — Calls at a gentleman's plantation — Adoe—
Tannier— wild pigeons — After fruticofus — leaves Charlcllon, proceeds on
his return home to Pcnnfylvania — croffes Cjoper river, nine miles above
the city — Long Bay — reefs of rocks — meets a gang of Negroes — paffcs the
boundary houfc — large favanna— -Dion3.a muf..ipula — old towns — Brunf-
vick — the C.arendon or Cape Tear river— North Weft — Livingfton's
creek — Wackamaw lake— Carver's creek — Afluvood — various vegetable
produiflions — cultivated vegetables — defcrihcs the face of the country on
the banks of the North Weft: and the adjacent lands — ftrata of the earth or
f. il — rocks — petrifactions — ancient fubmarine produClious, &c.— -leaves
Afliwood, continues up the river — vaft trunks of trees, with their roots,
and ftumps of limbs, with the bark on, turned into very hard ftonc —
Rock-filh creek — Crof* Creeks — the rife, progrefs, and prefeiK ftate of
Cambelton — curious fpecies of fcandcnt Fern — Deep River — croffes Haw
River— Meherren river in Virginia — Cucurbita lagenaria — curious fpecii.'s
of Prinos — Alexandria — George town — fuddcn fall of fnow — extreme
cold — croffes the river Sufquehauna i pon the ice — river Schuylkill — arrives
at his father's houfc, within three miles of Philadelphia 467

PART IV.

CHAP. 1

Perfons, charai5ler, and qualifications of the Aborigines— moft perfect
Kunian figure — Mufcogulge women — women of the Cherokees — arrogance
2f thcMufsogulges, yet magnaoiiiigui and mcrtL''ul to a van-jniflied eui^mv

4«i
C H A P.

»lu CONTENT S.

CHAP. II.

Government and civil fociety — conftitution funply natural — the mico or
king prcfidesin the fenatc — eledivc — yet myfterious — tlic next man in dig-
nity and power is the great war chief — entirely independent of the mico —
his voice in council of the greateft weight concerning military affairs — tht
high prieft a perfon of confequence, and maintains great influence in their
conflitution and councils of ftate-— thefc Indians not idolaters — they adore
the Great Spirit, the giver and taker away of the breath of life, with the
xnoft profound homage and purity— anecdote 49*

CHAP. III.
Drefs, feafts, and divertifemcnts — youth of both fexes are fond of deco-
rations with refpedl to drefs — their ears lacerated — diadem plumes, &c.
— paint their flcin — drefs of the females different from that of the men —
great horned owl fkin fluffed and born about by the priefls — infignia of
wifdom and divination — fond of mufic, dancing, and rout — different clafles
of fongs — variety of fteps in their dances — fenQble and powerful effe<5t» —
ball play— feftival of the Bulk 499

CHAP. IV.

Conccrnin{r property, agriculture, arts, and manufactures — private
property — produce of their agricultural labours — common plantation —
king's crib — public treafury — women the mofl ingenious and vigilant in
mechanic arts and manufadures J09

CHAP. V.

Marriages and funeral rites — pelygamy — take wives whilft they are yet
young children — adultery — Mufcogulges bury their dead in a fitting pof-
ture — ftrange cuftomsof the Chacftaws relative to duties to the deceafed —
bone houfe — dirges— feaft to the dead — methods which the nurfcs purfue
to flatten the infant's IkuU and retain its form 514

CHAP. VI.
Language and monuments — Mufcogulge language fpoken throughout
the confederacy — agreeable to the ear — Cherokee language loud — pyrami-
dal artificial hills or mounts, terraces, obelilks — high way* and artificiil
lakci — chunk yards — Have polls J17

INTRODUCTION.

INTRODUCTION,

1 HE attention of a traveller fliould be particularly
turned in the lirll place, to the various works of
Nature, to mark the diftinclions of the climates he
may explore, and to offer fuch ufeful obfervations
on the different produdions as may occur. Men
and manners undoubtedly hold the tirll rank — what
ever may contribute to our exiftence is alio of equal
importance, whether it be found in the animal or
vegetable kingdom ; neither are the various articles,
which tend to promote the happincfs and conveni-
ence of mankind, to be difregarded. How far the
writer of the following flieet? has fucceedcd in fur-
niftiing information on thefe fufcjecls, the reader will
be capable of determining. From the advantages
the journalift enjoyed under his father John Bar-
tram, bntanifl: to the king of Great Britain, "and
fellow of the Royal Society, it is hoped that his la^
hours will prefent new as well as ufeful information
to the botanift and zoologifl.

This world, as a glorious apartment of the bounc-
lefs palace of the fovereign Creator, is furnilhed wiih
an infinite variety of animated fcenes, inexpreffibly
beautiful and pleafmg, equally free to the infpetftioii
and enjoyment of all his creatures.

Perhaps there is not any part of creation, within
the reach of our obfervations, which exhibits a more
glorious difplay of the Almighty hand, than the ve-
getable world ; fuch a variety of pkafmg fcenes,
ever changing throughout the feafons, arifmg from
various caufes, and affigned each to the purpofe and
ufe determined.

It is difficult to pronounce which divifion of the
earth, between the polar circles, produces thegreateft

b variety

X INTRODUCTION.

variety. The tropical divifion certainly affords thofe
which principally contribute to the more luxurious
fcenes of Iplendour, as Myrtus communis, Myrt. ca-
ryophyllata, Pvlyrt. pimenta, Caryophillus aromati-
cus, Laurus cinnam. Laurus camphor. Laurus Perfi-
ca, Nux mofch. lliicium, Camtlia, Punica, Cadus
melo-caclus, CaCius granditlora, Gloriofa faperba,
'I'heobroma, Adanfonia digitata, Nyftanthcs, Pfidi-
um, Mufa paradifica, Mufa fapientum, Garcinia
mangoliana, Cocos nucifera, Citrus, Citrus auranti-
um, Cucurblta citruUus, Hyacinchus, Amaryllis,
NarciiTui;, Poinciana pulcherrima, Crinum, Cad:us
cochirieliifer.

But tlie temperate zone (including by far the
greater portion of the earth, and a climate the moft
favourable to the increafe and fupport of animal life,
as well as for the exercife and acliviry of the human
faculties) exhibits fcenes of infinitely greater variety,
magnificence, and confequence, with refpett to hu-
man economy, in regard to the various ufes cr vc-
.getablss.

For inflance ; Triticum Cereale, which affords
us bread, and is ternted by way of eminence, the
.italf of life, the mod plealant and nourifliing food
to all terreiurial animals. Vitis vinlfcra, whofe ex-
hilarating juice is faid to cheer the hearts of gods
and men. Oiyza, Zea, Pyrus, Pyrus malus, Pru-
nus, Pr. cerafus, Ficus, Nectarin, Apricot, Cydo-
nia. Next follow the illuilrious famiiies of forefl-
trees, as the Magnolia grandiHora and Quercus
fempervirens, which form the venerated groves and
folemn ftades, on the -MiiTifiippi, Ahitaniaha and
Florida ; the magnificent CuprelTus dillicha of Caro-
lina and Florida ; the beautiful Water Oak*, whofe
vaft hemifpheric head piefents the likenefs of a dif-
tant grove in the fields and favannas cf Carolina ; the

* QLcrcas I-'tii i'pherlca.

gigantic

INTRODUCTION. Xi

gigantic Black Oak j-, Platanus occidentalis, Liquid-
ambar ftyraciflua, Liriodendron tulipifera, Fagus
callanea, Fagus fylvatica, Juglans nigra, Juglans
cinerea, Jug. pecan, Ulmus, Acer faccharinum, of
Virginia and Pennfylvania ; Pinus phcenix, Pinus
tceda, Magnolia acuminata, Nyfla aquatica, Populus
heterophylla, and the floriferous Gordonia hilan-
fhus, ot Carolina and Florida ; the exalted Pinus
ftrobus, Pin. balfamica, Pin. abies, Pin. Canadenfis,
Pin. larix, Fraxinur, excelfior, Robinia pfeudacacia,
Guilandina dioica, iEfculus Virginica, Ma ;no!'a
acuminata, of Virginia, Maryland, Pennfylvania,
New Jerfey, New "I'ork, New England, Ohio, and
the regions oi Erie and the Illinoi,^ j and the aroma-
tic and floriferous flirubs, as Azalea coccinea. Aza-
lea rofea, Rofa, Rhododendron, Kalmia, Syringa,
Gardenia, Calycanthus, Daphne, Franklinia, Sty-
rax, and others equally celebrated.

In every order of nature we perceive a variety of
qualities diflributed amongfl individuals, defigncd
for dlilercnt purpofes and ufes ; yet it appears evi-
dent, that the great Author has impartially diftri-
buted his favours to his creatures, fo that the attri-
butes of each one fecm to be of i'ufficient importance
to manifell the divine and inimitable workmanfliip.
The pompous Palms of Florida, and glorious Mag-
nolia, llrikes us with the fenfe of dignity and mag-
nificence ; the expanfive umbrageous Live Oak |
with awful veneration; the Carica pafjaya, feems
fupercilious wiih all the harmony of beauty and
gracefulnefs ; the Lilium fuperbum reprefents pride
and vanity ; Kalmia latifolia and Azalea coccinea,
exhibit a ported (how of mirth and gaiety ; the Illi-
cium Floridanum, Crinum Floridanum, Convallaria
majalis of the Chcrokces, and Calycanthus floridus,
charm with their beauty and fragrance. Yet they
arc not to be compared for ufefulnefs with the nutri-

-f- Qutrcui- tiiitSloria. f Quercus femp srvirecs.

b 2 tious

'"^'n INTRODUCTION.

tious Triticum, Zea, Oryza, Solanum' tuberofum,
Mufa, Convolvulus Batata, Rapa, Orchis, Vitis
vinifera, Pyrus, Olea ; for clothing with Linuni
Cannabis, GolTypium, Morus ; for medicinal vir-
tues with liyffopus. Thymus, Anthemis nobilis,
Papavcr fomniferum, Quinquina, Rheum rhabarba-
rum, Pifuin, c:c. Though none of thefe mod ufe-
ful tribes are confpic;:ous for ftateUnefs, figure, or
fplenJour, yet their valuable qualities and virtues
excite love, gratitude, and adoration to the great
Creator, who was pleafed to endow them with fuch
eminent qualities, and reveal them to us for our fuf-
tenance, amuftment, and delight.

But there remain of the vegetable v/orld feveral
tribes that are dillinguiihed by very, remarkable pro-
perties, whicli excite our admiration, fome for the
elegance, fingularity, and fplendour of their veft-
ment, as the Tulipa, Fritillaria, Colchicum, Pri-
mula, Lilium fuperbum, Kalmia, &c. : others aflo-
nifh us by their figure and difpofal of their vefture,
as if defigned only to embellilh and pleafe the ob-
ferver, as the Nepenthes didiilatoria, Ophrys infec-
loria, Cypripcdium calceolus, Hydrangia quercifo-
lia, Bartramia bracleata. Viburnum Canadenfe,
Bartfia, S:c.

Obferve thefe green meadov/s how they are deco-
rated f they feem enamelled v»ith the beds of fiov/ers.
The blufiiing Chironia and Rhexia, the fpiral
Ophrys with immaculate white iiowers, the Limo-
dorum, Arethufa pulcherrima, Sarracenia purpurea,
Sarracenia galeata, Sarracenia lacunofa, Sarracenia
uava. Shall we analyze thefe beautiful plants, fmce
they feem cheerfully to invite us ? How greatly the
fi,ov/ers of the yellow Sarracenia reprefent a filken
canopy ? the yellow pendant petals arc the curtains,
and the hoilov/ leaves are not unlike the cornucopia
or Amaithea's horn ; what a quantity of water a
leaf is capable of containing, about a pint ! tade of

it —

INTRODUCTIOy. XUl

n- — how cool and animating — limpid as the mcrning
dew : nature fecras to havefiirnif]:ed them with this
cordatcd appendage or lid, wliich turns over, to
prevent a too fudden and copious lupply of water
from heavy Ihowers of rain, which would bend down
the leaves, never to rife again ; bccaufe their ftraight
parallel nerves, which extend and fupport them,
are fo rigid and fragile, the leaf would inevitably
break when bent down to a right angle ; therefore I
fuppofe the waters w hich contribute to their fupply,
are the rebounding drops or horizontal ilrcams waft-
ed by the winds, which adventitioufly fmd their way
into them, when a bhift of wind fhifls the lid: fee
ihefe fhort ftiff hairs, they all point downvvards,
which dired: the condenfed vapours down into the
funiculum ; thcfe ftift hairs alfo prevent the varieties
oi infects, which are cauglit from returning, being-
invited down to i\p the mellifluous exudation, from
the interior furface of the tube, where they inevitably
perifli ; what quantities there are of them ! Thefc
latent waters undoubtedly contribute to the fupport
and refreilmient of the plant : perhaps defigned as a
refervoir in cafe of long continued droughts, or other
cafualties, fince thefe plants naturally dwell in Kow^
favannas liable to overflows, from rain water : for
although I am not of the opinion that vegetables re-
ceive their nourifhment onlv through the afcendinp-
part of the plant, as the (lem, branches, leaves, &c.;
and that their defcending parts, as the root and
fibres, only ferve to hold and retain them in their
places ; yet I believe they imbibe rain and dews
through their leaves, Hems, and branches, by ex-
tremely minute pores, which open on both furfaces
of thejeaves and on the branches, which may com-
municate to little auxilary du<5ls or velTels ; or, per-
haps the cool dews and fliowers, by conflricting thefe
j^'ores, and thereby preventing a too free perfpiration,

may

XIV IXTIIODUCTION.

may recover alid again invigorate the languid nerves
of thofe which feem to fuft'er for want of water, in-
great heats and droui^hts : but whether the infeds
caught in their leaves, and which dilfolve and mix
with the fluid, ferve for aliment or fupport to thefe
kind of plants, is doubtful. All the Sarraccnias are
infeft catchers, and fo is the Dioflea rotundifolia.

But admirable are the properties of the extraordi-
nary Dionea mufcipula ! A groat extent on each
fide of that ferpentine rivulet is occupied by thofc
fportive vegetables — let us advance to the ipot in
which nature has feat^d them. Aftonifning pro-
du6lion ! lee the incarnate lobes expanding, how
gay and fportive they appear ! ready on the fpring
to intrap inca^^rious deluded infeds ! what artifice !
there behold*one of the leaves juft clofed upon a
ftruggling fly ; another has gotten a worm ; its hold
is furc, its prey can never efcape — carnivorous ve-
getable ! Can we after viewing this objeft, hefitate
a moment to confefs, that vegetable beings are en-
dued with fome fenfible faculties or attributes, fimi-
lar to thofe that dignify animal nature ; they are
organical, living, and felf-moving bodies, for we
fee here, in this plant, motion and volition.

What power or faculty is it, that dire£ls the cirri
of the Cucurbita, Momordica, Viti.-, and other
climbers, towards the twigs of flirubs, trees, and
other friendly fupport ? vi^e fee them invariably lean-
ing, extending, and like the fingers of the human
hand, reaching to catch hold of what is neareft,
juft as if they had eyes to fee with ; and when their
hold is fixed, to coil the tendril in a fpiral form,
by which artifice it becomes more elafliic and effec-
tual, than if it had remained in a dired hne, for
every revolution of the coil adds a portion of
ftrength ; and thus collected, they are enabled to
dilate and contrad as occafion or neceffity requires,

and

INTRODUCTIO . :^

and thus by yielding to, and hunioiirmg the motion
of the limbs and twigs, or other fupport on which
they depend, are not fo liable to be torn ofF by fud-
den W.ads of wind or other afiauks : is it f^nfe or
inftincl that influences their aftions ? it mui^ be
lome impulfe ; or does the hand of the Almighty
•a£l and perform this work in our fight ?

The vital principle or ef?icient caufe of motion
and aftion, in the animal and vegetable '^' fydem,
perhaps, may be more fimilar than we generally ap-
prehend. Where is the eflential diffcrcnrc between
the feed of peas, peaches, and other tribes of plants
and trees, and the eggs of oviparous animals, as of
birds, fnakes, or bvitrerflles, fpawn of fidi, &c. ?
Let us begin at the foiirce of terreftrird exiftence.
Are not the feeds of vegetables, and the eggs of
oviparous animals fecundated, or influenced with
the vivific principle of life, througii the approxima-
tion and intimacy of the fexes ? and immediately
after the eggs and feeds are hatched, does not the
young larva and infant plant, by heat and moiflure,
rife into exidence, increafe, and in due time arrive
to a flate of perlecl maturity ? The phyfio'ogifts
agree in opinion, that the work of generation in vi-
viparous animal.;, is exacl:ly fimilar, only mere fc-
cret and enveloped. The mode of operation that
nature purfues in the produclion of vegetables, and
oviparous animals, is infinitely more uniform and
manifefl, than that which is or can bedifcovercd to
take place in viviparous animals.

The mod apparent difference be-tween animals
and vegetables is, that animals have the povvers of
found, and are locomotive, whereas vegetables are
not able to thift themfclves from the places where
nature has planted them : yet vegetables have the
^^ower of moving and exercifing their members, and

* Vid. Sponfalia plantarum, -Vmoen. Acad 1. n. ii. I-iiin.

have

XVI I-^rtRODUCTION.

have the means of tranfplanting or colonifing their
tribes ahnoft over the furface of the whole earth ;
-fome feeds, for inflance, grapec, nuts, fmihw, peas,
and others, whofe pulp or kernel is food for animals,
will remain feveral days without being injured in
ftomachs of pigeons and other birds of palfage ; by
this means fuch forts are diftributed irom place to
place, even acrofs fcas ; indeed fomc feeds require
this preparation by the digeftive heat of the ftomach
of animals, to diilolve and detach the oily, vifcid
pulp, or to foften the hard fhells. Small feeds are
fometimes furnifhed with rays of hair or down ; and
others with thin light membranes attached to them,
which ferve the purpofe of wings, on which they
mount upward, leaving the earth, float in the air,
and are carried away by the fvvift winds to very re-
mote regions before they Tettle on the earth j fome
are furniflied with hooks, which catch hold of the
wool and hair of animals palling by them, and are
by that means fpread'abroad ; other feeds ripen in
pericarpes, which open with elaftic force, and flioot
their feed to a very great diftance round about ;
fome other feeds, as of the Moffes and Fungi, are
fo very minute as to be invifible, light as atoms,
and thefe mixing v.'ith the air, are vv'afted all over
the world.

The animal creation alfo excites our admiration,
and equally manifefts the almighty power, wifdom,
and beneficence of the Supreme Creator and Sove-
reign Lord of the univerfe ; fome in their vail fize
and Ib-ength, as the mammoth, the elephant, the
whale, the lion, and aUigator ; others in agility ;
others in their beauty and elegance of colour, plu-
mage, and rapidity of flight, having the faculty of
moving and living in the air ; others for their imme-
diate and indifpenfable ufe and convenience to man,
in furnifliing means for our clothing and fufl:enance,

and

INTRODUCTION. XVi

and adminiftei'ing to our help in the toils Tend labours
of life : how wonderful is the mechanifm of thefe
finely formed felf-moving beings, how comphcated
their fyftem, yet what unerring uniformity prevails
through every tribe and panicular fpecies! the ef-
fed we fee and contemplate, the caufe is invillble,
incomprehcnfible ; how can it be otherwife ? when
we cannot fee the end or origin of a nerve or vein,
while the divifibility of matter or fluid, is infinite.
We admire the mechanifm of a watch, and the fa-
bric of a piece of brocade, as being the production
of art; thefe merit our admiration, and mud excite
our efteem for the ingenious artilt or modifier ; but
nature is the work of God omnipotent; and an ele-
phant, nay even this world, is comparatively but a
very minute part of his works. If then the vifible,
the mechanical part of the animal creation, the mere
material part, is fo admirably beautiful, harmoni-
ous, and incomprehenfible, wliat mufl be the intel-
ledual fyftem ? that incxpreflibly more ellential prin-
ciple, which fecretly operates within ? that which
animates the inimitable machines, which gives them
motion, impowers them to act, fpeak, and perform,
this muft be divine and immortal ?

I am fenfible that t!ie general opinion of philofo-
phers, has uiitinguiflicd the moral fyllem of the
brute creature from that of mankuid, by an epithet
which impHes a mere mechanical impulfe, which
leads cind impels them to neceffary actions, without
any premeditated defign or contrivance ; this we
term inftind", which faculty we fiipj-jofe to be infe-
rior to reafon in man.

The parental aiul filial aifections feem to be as
ardent, their fen-fibility and attacliment as attive and
iaithful, as thofe obfervedin human nature.

When travellln^^ on the eaft coaft of the ifthmus
of Florida, afcending the fouth Mufquito river, in

a canoe.

XVlll INTRODUCTION.

a canoe, we obferved numbers of deer and bears,
near the banks, and on the iflands of the river ;
the bears were feeding on the fruit of the dwarf
creeping Chamasrops ; (this fruit is of the form and
fize of dates, and is deHcious and nourifhing food :)
we faw eleven bears in the courfe of the day, they
feenied no way furprifed or affrighted at the fight
of us. In the evening, my hunter, who was an
excellent markfman, faid that he would fhoot one
of them, for the fake of the ilvin and oil, for we
had plenty and variety of provifions in our bark.
We accordingly, on fight of two of them, planned
our approaches as artfully as poflible, by crofTing
over to the oppolite fhore, in order to get under
cover of a fmall ifland ; this we cautioufly coafted
round, to a point, which we apprehended would
take us within Ihot of the bears ; but here finding
ourfelves at too great a diftance from them, and
difcovering that we rauft: openly fliow ourfelves, we
had no other alternative to effe6l our purpofe, but
making oblique approaches. We gained gradually
on our prey by this artifice, without their noticing
us : finding ourfelves near enough, the hunter fired,
and laid the largefl dead on the fpot where fhe flood ;
when prefently the other, not feeming the Isafl
moved at the report of our piece, approached the
dead body, fmelled, and pav/ed it, and appearing
in agony, fell to weeping and looking upwards,
then towards us, and cried out like a child. Whilfl
our boat approached very near, the hunter was
loading his rifle in order to fhoot the furvivor,
which was a young cub, and the flaiii fuppofed to be
the dam. The continual cries of this afflided child,
bereft of its parent, affefted me very fenfibly ; I
was moved with compalTion, and charging m^-felf
as if acceffary to what now appeared to be a cruel
murder, endeavoured to prevail on the hunter to

fave

INTRODUCTION. XIX

fave its life, but to no efleel ! for by habit he had
become infenfible to compafhon towards the brute
creation : being now within a few yards of the
harmlefs devoted vidim, he fired, and laid it dead
upon the body of the dam.

If we beftow but very little attention to the eco-
nomy of the animal creation, we (liall find manifefl
examples of premeditation, perfeverance, refolu-
tion, and confummate artifice, in order to effeft
their purpofes. The next morning, after the flaugh-
ter of the bears, whilft my companions were fi:rik-
ing our tent and preparing to re-embark, 1 refolved
to make a little botanical excurfion alone : crofling
over a narrow ifthmus of fand hills which fcparatcd
the river from the ocean, I pafi'ed over a pretty
high hill, its fummit ciefled with a few palm trees,
.furrounded with an Orange grove : this hill, whofe
bafe was vvaflied on one fide by the floods of the
Mufquito river, and en the other fide by the billows
of the ocean, was about one hundred yarJs diame-
ter, and feemed to be an entire heap of fea fliells. I
continued along the beach a quarter of a mile, and
came up tc a foreft of the Agave vivipara (thouoh
compofed of herbaceous plants, I term it a foreft,
becaufe their fcapes or flower-ltcms avofe ered: near
30 feet high) : their tops regularly branching in the
form of a pyramidal tree, and thefc plants growing
near to each other, occupied a fpace of ground
of feveral acres : when their feeds are ripe they
vegetate, and grow on the branches, until the fcape
dries, when the young plants fall to the ground,
cake root, and fix ihemfelves in the fand : the plant
grows to a prodigious fize before the fcape fhoots
up from its centre. Having contemplated this ad-
mirable grove, 1 proceeded towards the flirubberies
on the banks of tha river, and though it was now
Jate in December, the aromatic groves appeared in

full

.-tX INTRODUCTION.

full bloom. The broad-leaved fweet Myrtus, Eiy-
thiina corallodendrum, Cadus cochinellifcr, Caca-
iia fuffruticofa, and particularly, Rhizophora con-
jugata, which ftood clofe to and in the fait water of
the river, were in full bloom, with beautiful white
fweet fcented flowers, which attracted to them two
or three fpecies of very beautiful butterflies, one of
which was black, the upper pair of its wings very
long and narrow, marked with tranfverfe flripes of
pale yellow, with fome fpots of a crimfon colour
near the body. Another fpecies remarkable for
fplendour, was of a larger fize ; the wings v/ere
undulated and obtufely crenated round their ends,
the nether pair terminating near the body, with a
long narrow forked tail ; the ground light yellow,
flriped oblique-tranfverfely, with flripes of pale ce-
leflial blue, the ends of them adorned with little
eves encircled with the fined blue and crimfon,
which reprefented a very brilliant rofary. But thofe
which were the mofl numerous were as white as
fnov/, their wings large, their ends lightly crenated
and ciliated, forming a fringed border, faintly
marked with little black crefcents, their points
downward, with a clufler of little brilliant orbs of
blue and crimfon, on the nether wings near the
body -, the numbers were incredible, and there
feemed to be fcarcely a flower for each fly, multitu-
dinous as they were, befides clouds of them hover-
ing over the melhfluous groves. Befides thefe pa-
piles, a variety of other infefts come in for a fliare,
particularly feveral fpecies of bees.

As I was gathering fpecimens of flowers from the
flirubs, 1 w^as greatly furprifed at the ludden appear-
ance of a remarkably large fpider on a leaf, of the
genus Araneus fallens : at fight of me he boldly
faced about, and raifed himfelf up, as if ready to
fpring upon me j his body was about the fize of a

pigeon's

INTRODUCTIO!^. XTLX

pigeon's e^^, of a buff colour, which, with his
legs, were covered with fnort filky hhir ; on the
top of the abdomen was a rouiid red fpot or ocelle
encircled with black. After I had recovered from
the furprife, obferving that the wary hunter had re-
tired under cover, I drew near again, and prefently
difcovered that I had furprifed him on predatory at-
tempts again(i the infed tribes. I was therefore de-
termined to watch his proceedings. I foon noticed
that the objed: of his wiflies was a large fat bomble
bee (apis bombylicus), that was vifiting the Hovvers,
and piercing their nectariferous tubes : this cunninr
intrepid hunter conducted his fubtil approaches with
the circumfpedion and perfeverance of a Siminole
when hunting a deer, advancing with flow fteps
obliquely, or under cover of dcnfe foliage, and be-
hind the limbs, and when the bee was engaged in
probing a flov/er, he would leap nearer, and then
infl:antly retire out of Hght, under a leaf or behind
a branch, at the fame time keeping a fiiarp eye upon
me. When he had now gotten within two feet of
his prey, and the bee was intent on fipping the deli-
cious nedlar from a flower, with Iiis back next the
fpider, he inft:antly fprang upon him, and grafped
him over the back and fnoulder, when for forae
moments they boih difappeared. I expedited the
bee had carried oif his enemy, but to my furprife,
they both together rebounded back again, fufpended
at the extremity of a flrong elaftic thread or web,
which the fpider had artfully let fall, or fixed on the
twig, the inftant he leaped from it : the rapidity of
the bee's wings, endeavouring to extricate himfclf,
made them both together appear as a moving va-
pour, until the bee became fatigued by vv^hirhng
round, firfl one way and then back again : at
length, in about a quarter of an hour, the bee quite
c;!chaufled by his ftruggles, and the repeated wounds

of

XXll INTRODUCTION.

of the butcher, became motlonlefs, and quickly
expired in the arms of the devouring fpider, who,
afcending the rope with his game, retired to feail on
it under cover of the leaves ; and perhaps before
night, became himfelf the delicious evening repaft
of a bird or lizard.

Birds are in general focial and benevolent crea-
tures ; intelligent, ingenious, volatile, aclivc be-
ings ; and this order of animal creation confifts of
various nations, bands, or tribes, as may be ob-
ferved from their different ftrudlure, manners, and
languages, or voice ; each nation, though fubdi-
vided into many different tribes, retaining its general
form or ftrudture, a fimilaiity of cuftoms, and a
fort of dialed or language, particular to that nation
or genus from v/hich thofe tribes feem to have de-
fcended or feparated. What I mean by a language
in birds, is the common notes or fpeech, that they
ufe when employed in feeding themfelves and their
young, calling on one another, as well as their me-
naces againft their enemy ; for their fongs feem to
be mufical compofitions, performed only by the
males, about the time of incubation, in part to di-
vert and amufe the female, entertaining her with
melody, S:c. This harmony, v.'ith the tender foli-
citude of the male, alleviates the toils, cares, and
diflreffes of the female, confoles her in folitary re-
tirement whilll; fitting, and animates her with affec-
tion and attachment to himfelf in preference to any
other. The volatility of their fpecies, and opera-
tion of their paffions and affe£lions, are particularly
confpicuous in thd different tribes of the thruili, fa-
mous for fong. On a fweet PJay morning we fee
the red thruflres (turdus rufus) perched on an ele-
vated fprig of the fnovvy Hawthorn, fweet flower-
ing Crab, or other hedge fhrub, exerting their -ac-
complifliments in fong, ifriving by varying and ele-
vating

IKTRCDUCTICr. XXlll

vatlng their voices to excel each other ; we obferve
a very agreeable variation, not only in tone but in
modulation ; the voice of one is flirill, ot another
lively and elevated, of others fonorous and quiver-
ing. The mock-biid (turdus poly;^lottos) who ex-
cels, diftinguiflies himfelf in a variety of adion as
well as air ; from a turret he bounds aloft with the
celerity of an arrow, as it were to recover or recal
his very foul, expired in the lall elevated ilrain.
The high forefts are filled with the fymphony of the
fong or wood thrufh (turdus minor)

Both faxes of fome tribes of birds fing equally
finely ; and it is remarkable, that thefe reciprocally
aflift in their domeftic cares, as building their nefts
and fitting on their eggs, feeding and defendinir
their young brood, &c. The oriolus (idlcrus, Cat.)
is an inftance of this cafe ; and the female of the
idterus minor is a bird of more fplendid and gay
drefs than the male bird. Some tribes of birds \\ ill
relieve and rear up the young and helplefs, of their
own and other tribes, when abandoned. Animal
fubftance feems to be the liril food of all birds, even
the granivorpus tribes.

Having pafl'ed through fome remarks, which ap-
peared of fufficient confequence to be offered to the
public, and which were moil fuitable to have a place
in the iiUroduclion, I lliall now olfer fuch obfcrva-
tions as muft neceffarily occur, from a careful atten-
tion to, and invefdgaLion of, the marners of the
Indian nations ; being induced, while travcllincr
among them, to afibciate with them, that I mio-h^t
judge for myfelf, whether they v.-ere deferving'of
the fevere cenfure which prevailed again ft them
among the white people, that they were incaoable
of civiUzation.

In the confideration of this important fub'ecc ir
will be neceifary to inquire, whether thev were in-
clined

xxiv Introduction,

dined to adopt the European modes of civil fociety ?
Whether fuch a reformation could be obtained,
without ufing coercive or violent means ? And lailly,
whether fuch a revolution would be produftive of
real benefit to them, and confequently beneficial to
the public ? I vi^as fatisfied in difcoveiing that they
were defirous of becoming united with us, in civil
and religious fociety.

It may, therefore, not be foreign to the fubjedH:,
to point out the propriety of fending men of ability
and virtue, under the authority of government, as
friendly viators, into their towns : let thefe men be
inflrudled to learn perfedly their languages, and by
a liberal and friendly intimacy become acquainted
with their cuftoms and ufages, religious and civil ;
their fyftem of legiflation and police, as well as their
mod ancient and prefent traditions and hiftory.
Thefe men thus enlightened and infl:ru61:ed would be
qualified to judge equitably, and when returned to
us, to make true and jufl reports, which might
aififl the legiflature of the United States to form,
and offer to them, a judicious plan for their civili-
zation and union with us.

But I prefume not to dictate in thefe high concerns
of government, and I am fully convinced that fuch
important matters are far above my ability ; the
duty and refpeft we owe to religion and rectitude,
the mod acceptable incenfe we offer to the Almighty,
as an atonement for our negligence in the care of
the prefent and future well being of our Indian bre-
thren, induce me to mention this matter, though
perhaps of greater concernment than we generally
are aware.

TRAVELS

"*'■ s.'J,./,„

TRAVELS

IN

NORTH AMERICA.

CHAP. L

The author fets fail from Philadelphia ^ and arrives at
Charleflon^ from whence he begins his travels.

At the requefl of Dr. Fothergill, of London, to
fearch the Floridas, and the wellern parts of Ca-
roUna and Georgia, for the difcovery of rare and
ufeful produftions di nature, chiefly in the vege-
table kingdom; in April, 1773, I embarked for
Charlerton, South Carolina, on board the brigan-
tine Charlellon packet, captain Wright, the brig

- - - , captain Mafon, being in company with

us, and bound to the fame port. We had a plea-
fant run down the Delaware, 150 miles to cape
Henlopen, the two veffels entering the Atlantic to-
gether. For the firfl twenty-four hours we had a
piofperous gale, and were cheerful and happy in
the profped of a quick and pleafant voyage ; but,
alas ! how vain and uncertain are human expeda-
tions ! how quickly is the flattering fcene chang-
ed ! The powerful winds, now rufhing forth from
B their

« TRAVELS IN

their fecret abodes, fuddenly fpread terror and de-
vaftation ; and the wide ocean, which, a few mo-
ments part, was gentle and placid, is now thrown
into diforder, and heaped into mountains, whofe
white curling crefts feem to fweep the fkies !

This furious gale continued near two days and
nights, and not a Httle damaged our fails, cabin
furniture, and ftate-rooms, befides retarding our
paiTage. The florm having abated, a lively gale
from N. W. continued four or five days, when
fliifting to N. and laftly to N. E. on the tenth of
our departure from cape Henlopen, early in the
morning, we defcried a fail aflern, and in a Ihoit
time difcovered it to be capt. Mafon, who foon
came up with us. We hailed each other, being
joyful to meet again after fo many dangers. He
fuffered greatly by the gale, but providentially
made a good harbour within cape Hatteras. As he
ran by us, he threw on board ten or a dozen bafs,
a large and delicious fifh, having caught a great
number of them whilll he was detained in harbour.
He got into Charleflon that evening, and we the
next morning, about eleven o'clock.

There are few objeds out at fea to attract the
notice of the traveller, but what are fublime, aw-
ful, and majeflic : the feas themfelves, in a tem-
ped, exhibit a tremendous fcene, where the winds
affert their power, and, in furious conflict, feem to
fet the ocean on fire. On the other hand, nothing
can be more fublime than the view of the encircling
horizon, after the turbulent winds have taken their
flight, and the lately agitated bofom of the deep has
again become calm and pacific ; the gentle moon
lifing in dignity from the eaft, attended by thou-
Lnds of glittering orbs : the luminous appearance

of

NORTH A.MERiCA- 3

of the feas at night, when all the waters feem tranf-
muted into liquid filver ; the prodigious bands of
porpoifes foreboding temped, that appear to cover
the ocean ; the mighty whale, fovereign of the wa-
tery realms, who cleaves the feas in his courfe ; the
fudden appearance of land from the fea, the ftrand
ftretching each way, beyond the utmofl reach of
fight J the alternate appearance and recefs of the
coaft, whilil the far diltant blue hills flowly retreat
and difappear ; or, as we approach the coaft, the
capes and promontories firft ftrike our fi ^ht, emerg-
ing from the watery expanfe, and, like mighty gi-
ants, elevating tl^eir crefts towards the fkies ; the
water fuddenly alive with its fcaly inhabitants ^
fquadrons of fea-fowl fweeping through the air, im-
pregnated with the breath of fragrant aromatic trees
and flowers ; the amplitude and magnificence of
thefe fcenes arc great indeed, and may i '-e'ent to the
imagination, an idea of the firfl: appearance of the
earth to man at the creation.

On my arrival at Charlefton, I waited on do6tor
Chalmer, a gentleman of eminence in his profeilion
and public employments, to whom I was recom-
mended by my worthy patron, and to whom I was
to apply for counfel and aflillance, for carrying into
eftedl my intended travels. The dodor received me
with perfeft politenefs, and, on every occafion,
treated me with friendfhip ; and by means of the
countenance which he gave me, and the marks of
efteem with which he honoured me, I became ac-
quainted with many of the worthy families, not only
of Carolina and Georgia, but alfo in the diflant
countries of Florida.

a a CHAP.

TRAVELS IN

CHAP. ir.

ARRTv'iNG in Carolina very early in the fpring,
•vegetation was not fufficiently advanced to invite
me into the weftern parts of this flate ; from which
circumflance, I concluded to make an excurfion
into Georgia ; accordingly, 1 embarked on board a
coafling vellel, and in twenty four hours arrived in
Savanna, the capital, where, acquainting the go-
vernor, Sir J. Wright, with my bufmefs, his ex-
cellency received me with great politenefs, fliewed
me every mark of efleem and regard, and furnifli-
ed me with letters to the principal inhabitants of the
flate, which were of great fervice to me. Another
circumflance very opportunely occurred on my arri-
val : the aflenibly was then fitting in Savanna, and
feveral m<;mbers lodging in the fame houfe where I
took up my quarters, I became acquainted with fe-
veral worthy charaders, who invited me to call at
their feats occafionaily, as I palled through the coun-
try j particularly the hon. B. Andrews, efq. a dif-
tinguiflied, patriotic, and liberal charafter. This
gentleman's feat, and well cultivated plantations,
arc fituated near the fouth high road, which I often
travelled ; and I feldom paifed his houfe without
calling to fee him, for it was the feat of virtue,
where h.fpitality, piety, and philofophy, formed
the happy family ; where the weary traveller and
flranger found a hearty welcome, and from whence
it muft be his own fault if he departed without being
greatlv benefited.

After

NORTH AMERICA. 5

After reding, and a little recreation for a few
days in Savanna, and having in the mean time
purchafed a good horfe, and equipped myfelf for a
journey fouthvvard, I fet oil' early in the morninpf
for Sunbury, a fea-port town, beautifully fituated
on the main, between Medway and Newport ri-
vers, about fifteen miles fouth of ^reat Ogeeche
river. The town and harbour are defended from
the furv of the feas by the north and fouth points
of St. Helena and South Catharine's illands ; be-
tween which is the bar and entrance into the found :
the harbour is capacious and fafe, and has water
enough for (liips of great burthen. I arrived here
in the evening, in company with a gentleman, one
of the inhabitants, who politely introduced me to
one of the principal families, where I fuppcd and
fpent the evening in a circle of genteel and polite
ladies and gentlem.en. Next day, being defirous of
vifiting the iflands, I forded a narrow flioal, part
of the found, and landed on one of them, which
employed me the whole day to explore. The fur-
face and vegetable mould here is generally a loofc
fand, not very fertile, except fome fpots bordering
on the found and inlets, where are found heaps .or
mounds of fea-fliell, either formerly brought there
by the Indians, who inhabited the ifland, or which,
were perhaps thrown up in ridges, by the beadng
furface of the fea: poflibly both thefe circumftances
may have contributed to their formation. Thefe
fea fhells, through length of tinffe, and the fubtle
penetrating cfleds of the air, which diflblve them
to earth, render thefe ridges very fertile; and,
when clear of their trees, and culdvated, they
become profufely produdive of almoin every kind
of vegetable. Here arc alfo large plantations of

indio;o..

O TRAVELS IN

indigo, corn, and potatoes*, with inany other forts
of efculent plants. I obferved, amongll the (hells
of the conical mounds, fragments of earthen vef-
fels, and of other utenfils, the manufa6lure of the
ancients : about the centre of one of them, the rim
of an earthen pot appeared amongft the Ihells and
earth, which I carefully removed, and drew it out,
almoft whole : this pot was curioufly wrought all
over the outfide, reprefenting baiket work, and was
undoubtedly efteemed a very ingenious perform-
ance, by the people, at the age of its conliru6lion.
The natural produce of thefe teflaceous ridges, be-
fides many of lefs note, are, the great Laurel Tree,
(Magnolia grandiflora) Pinus taeda, Laurus Bor-
bonia, Quercus fempervirens, or Live Oak, Prunus
Lauro-cerafus, Ilex aquifolium, Corypha palma,
Juniperus Americana. The general lurface of the
illand being low, and generally level, produces a
very great variety of trees, flirubs, and Jierbaceous
plants ; particularly the great long-leaved Pitch-
Pine, or Broom-Pine, Pinus paluflris, Finus fqua-
mofa, Pinus lutea, Gordonla Lafianthus, Liquid
ambar (Styraciflua) Acer rubrum, Fraxinus excel-
cior, Fraxinus aquatica, Quercus aquatica, Ouercus
phillos, Quercus dentata, Quercus humila varietas,
Vaccinium varietas, Andromeda varietas, Prinos va-
rietas. Ilex varietas, Viburnum prunifoUum, V. den-
tatum, Cornus florida, C. alba, C. fanguinea, Car-
pinus betula, C. oftrya, Itea Clethra alnifolia, Hale-
fia tetraptera, H. diptera, Iva, Rhamnus frangula,
Callicarpa, Morus rubra, Sapindus, CalTnie, and of
fuch as grow near water-courfes, round about
ponds and favannas, Fothergilla gardini, Myrica
cerifera, Olea Americana, Cvrilla racemiflora^

* Convolvulus batata.

Magnoli:

NOR,TH AMERICA. 7

Magnolia glauca. Magnolia pyramidita, Cercis,
Ralmia augultifolia, Kalmia ciliata, Chionanthus,
Cephalanthos, vEfculus parva ; and the interme-
diate fpaces, furrounding and lying between riie
ridges and favamias, are interfe(5led with plains of
the dwarf prickly fan-leaved Palmetto, and lawns
of grafs variegated with (lately trees of the great
Broom-Pine, and the fpreading ever-green Water-
Oak, either difpofed in - clumps, or fcatteringly
planted by nature. The upper furface, or vegeta-
tive foil of the ifland, lies on a foundation, or ftra-
tum, of tenacious cinereous-coloured clay, whicii
perhaps is the principal fupport of the vail grovvtU
of timber that arifes from the furface, which is lit-
tle more than a mixture of fine white fand and dif-
folved vegetables, ferving as a nurfery bed to hatch
or bring into exillence the infant plant, and to fup-
ply it vvith aliment and food, fuitable to its delicacy
and tender frame, until the roots, acquiring fufli-
cient extent and folidity to lay hold of the clay, foon
attain a magnitude and (lability fufHcient to main-
tain its (lation. Probably if this clay were dug out
and cafl upon the furface, after being meliorated by
the faline or nitrous qualities of the air, it would
kindly incorporate with the loofe fand, and become
a produclive and lading manure.

The roebuck, or deer, are numerous on thi-'
ifland ; the tyger, wolf, and bear, hold yet fomc
poileflion ; as alio raccoons, foxes, hares, fquirrels,
rats, and mice, but I think no mole;. There is a
large ground rat, Diore than twice the (ize of the
common Norway rat. Jn the night time it throws
out the earth, forming .little mounds, or hillocks,
oppofTums are here in abundance, as alfo pole-CcUs,
wild-cats, rattle-fnakes, glafs-fnake, clach-wTiip
fnake, and a variety of otlu-^.r fc-rpcnt';.

ITer-

8

TRAVELS IN

Here are alfo a great variety of birds, throughout
the feafons, inhabiting both fea and land. Firfl: I
iliall name the eagle, of which there are three fpe-
cies. The great grey eagle is the largeft, of great
ftrength and high flight ; he chiefly preys on fawns
and other young quadrupeds.

The bald eagle is likewife a large, ftrong, and
very adive bird, but an execrable tyrant : he fup-
ports his aflTumed dignity and grandeur by rapine
and violence, extorting unreafonable tribute and fub-
fidy from all the feathered nations.

The lafl: of this race I fhall mention is the falco
pifcatorius, or fifhing-hawk. : this is a large bird, of
high and rapid flight ; his wings are very long and
pointed, and he fpreads a vaft fail, in proportion to
the volume of his body. This princely bird fubfifts
entirely on filh which he takes himfelf, fcorning to
live and grow fat on the dear earned labours of ano-
ther ; he alfo contributes liberally to the fupport of
the bald eagle.

Water-fowl, and the various fpecies of land-birds,
alfo abound, mod of which are mentioned by Ca-
tefby, in his Hift. of Carolina, particularly his paint-
ed finch (Emberiza Ceris Linn.) exceeded by none
of the feathered tribes, either in variety and Iplen-
dour of drefs, or melody of fong.

Catefoy's ground doves are alfo here in abund-
ance : they are remarkably beautiful, about the fizc
of a fparrow, and their foft and plaintive cooing per-
fedly enchanting.

Hov/ chafte the dove! " never known to vlclue the conjugal

contract."
She flees the feats of envy and ftrife, and feeks the retired paths

of peace.

The

NORTH AMERICA. 9

The fight of this delightful and produ(5tive ifland,
placed in front of the rifing city of Sunbury,
quickly induced me to explore it ; which I appre-
hended, from former vifits to this coaft, would ex-
hibit a comprehenfive epitome of the hiftory of all
the fea-coafl iflands of Carolina and Georgia, as
likewife in general of the coaft of the main. And
though I confidered this excurfion along the coaft
of Georgia and northern border of Florida, a de-
viation from the high road of my intended travels,
yet I performed it in oidcr to employ to the moft
advantage the time on my hands, before the treaty
ot Augufta came on, where I was to attend, about
May or June, by defirc of the Superintendant, J.
Stewart, cfq. who, when I was in Cliai lefton, pro-
pofed, in order to facilitate my travels in the Indiari
territories, that, if 1 would be prcfeut at the Con-
grcfs, he would introduce my bufmcfs to the chiefs
of the Cherokees, Creeks, and other nations, and
recommend me to their friendfhip and protetllon j
which promife he fully pel formed, and it proved of
great fervice to me.

Obedient to the admonitions of my attendant
fpirit, curiofity, as well as to gratify the expe(5ta-
tions of my worthy patron, I again fet oft' on my
fouthern excurfion, and left Sunbury, in company
with feveral of its polite inhabitants, who were going
to Medway meeting, a very large and well con-
ftrufted place of worfliip, in St. John's parifti,
where I aflbciated with them in rehgious exercife,
and heard a very excellent fermon, delivered by
their pious and truly venerable paftor, the Rev.

Ofgood. This rcfpeclable congregation is

independent, and ccnfirt chiefly of families, and

profclytes ,

to TRAVELS IN

profelytes to a flock, which this pious man led
about forty years ago, from South Carolina, and
fettled in this fruitful difirid:. It is about nine
miles from Sunbury to Medway meeting-houfe,
■which ftands on the high road oppofite the Sun-
bury road. As foon as the congregation broke up,
1 re-alfumed my travels, proceeding down the high
road towards Fort Barrington, on the Alatamaha,
palling through a level country, well watered by
large ftreams, branches of Medway and Newport
rivers, courfmg from extenfive fwamps and marfhes,
their fources : thefe fwamps are daily clearing
and improving into large fruitful rice plantations,
aggrandizing the well inhabited and rich diftrict of
St. John's parifli. The road is ftraight, fpacious, ,
and kept in excellent repair by the induftrious in-,
habitants ; and is generally bordered on each fide
with a light grove, confiding of the following trees
and fhrubs : Myrica, Cerifera, Calycanthus, Haleiia
tetraptera, Itea, ftewartia, Andromeda nitida, Cy-
rella racemiflora, entwined with bands and gar-
lands of Bignonia fempervirens, B. crucigera, Lo-
nicera, fempervirens and Glycene frutefcens ; thefe
were overfhadowed by tall and fpreading trees, as
the Magnolia grandiiiora. Liquid ambar, Lirio-
dendron, Catalpa, Quercus fempervirens, Quercus
dentata, Q^ Phillos ; and on the verges of the
canals, where the road was caufwayed, flood
the Cupref/us diflicha, Gordonia Lacianthus, and
Magnolia glauca, all planted by nature, and left
{landing, by the virtuous inhabitants, to Ihade the
road, and perfume the fultry air. The extenfive
plantations of rice and corn, now in early ver-
dure, decorated here and there with groves of flo-
liferous and fragrant trecr, and ilirubs, under the

cover

NORTH AMERICA. II

cover and protedion of pyramidal laurels and
plumed palms, which now and then break through
upon the fight from both fides of the way as we
pafs along ; the eye at intervals Healing a view at
the humble, but elegant and neat habitation, of the
happy proprietor, amidft arbours and groves, all
day, and moon-light nights, filled with the melody
of the cheerful mockbird, warbling nonpareil, and
plaintive turtle-dove, altogether prefent a view of
magnificence and joy, inexpreffibly charming and
animating.

In the evening I arrived at the feat of the Hon.
B. Andrews, efq. who received and entertained me
in every refpedl, as a worthy gentleman could a
ftranger, that is, with hearty welcome, plain but
plentiful board, free converfation and liberaUty of
fentiment. I fpent the evening very agreeably, and
the day following (for I was not permitted to de-
part fooner) : I viewed with plcafure this gentleman's
exemplary improvements in agriculture ; particu-
larly in the growth of rice, and in his machines for
/helling that valuable grain, which ftands in the
water almofl from the time it is fown, until within
a few days before it is reaped, when they draw otT
the water by fluices, which ripens it all ar once, and
when the heads or panicles are dry ripe, it is reaped
and left (landing in the field, in fmall ricks, until
the ftraw is quite dry, when it is hauled, and ftack-
ed in the barn yard. The machines for cleaning
tlie rice are worked by the iorcc of water. They
(land on the great refer voir which contains the
waters that flood the rice fields below.

Towards the evening we made a little party at
fiftiing. We chofe a (haded retreat, in a beautiful
grove of magnolias, myrtles, and fweet bay trees,

which

12 TRAVELS IN

which were left (landing on the bank of a fine
creek, that, from this place, took a flow ferpen-
tine courfe through the plantation. "VVe prefently
tookfome fifh, one kind of which is very beautiful ;
they call it the red-belly. It is as large as a man's
hand, nearly oval and thin, being compreffed on
each fide ; the tail is beautifully formed ; the top
of the head and back of an olive green, befprinkled
with rulfet fpecks ; the fides of a fea green, inclin-
ing to azure, infenfibly blended with the olive
above, and beneath lightens to a filvery white, or
pearl colour, elegantly powdered with fpecks of the
fined green, ruffet and gold ; the belly is of a bright
fcarlet red, or vermilion, darting up rays or fiery
ftreaks into the pearl on each fide ; the ultimate
angle of the branchiodega extends backwards with
a long fpatula, ending v/ith a round or oval parti-
coloured fpot, representing the eye in the long
feathers of a peacock's train, verged round with a
thin flame-coloured membrane, and appears like a
brilliant ruby fixed on the fide of the filh ; the
eyes are large, encircled with a fiery iris , they are
a voracious fifti, and are eafily caught with a fuit-
able bait.

The next morning I took leave of this worthy
family, and fet off for the fettlements on the Ala-
tamaha, ffill purfuing the high road for Fort Bar-
riu'^ton, till towards noon, when I turned off to
the left, following the road to Darian, a fettlement
on the river twenty miles lower down, and near
the coafl. The fore part of this day's journey was
pleafant, the plantations frequent, and the roads in
tolerriblc good repair ; but the country being now
lefs cultivated, the roads became bad. I purfued
my journey almoft continually through fv.amps and
creeks, waters of Newport and Sapeilo, till night,

when

I

NORTH AMERICA. J3

when I loft my way ; but coming up to a fence, I
faw a glimmering light, which conducled me to a
houfe, where I ftayed all night, and met with very
civil entertainment. Early next morning I fet off
again, in company with the overfeer of the farm,
who piloted me through a large and diflicult fwamp,
when we parted ; he in chafe of deer, and I to-
wards Darian. I rode feveral miles through a high
foreft of pines, thinly growing on a level plain,
which admitted an ample view, and a free circula-
tion of air, to another fwamp ; and crolling a con-
fiderable branch of Sapello river, I then came to a
fmall plantation by the fide of another fwamp : the
people were remarkably civil and hofpitable. The
man's name was M'Intoih, a family of the firft co-
lony eflabHflied in Georgia, under the conduct of
general Oglethorpe. Was there ever fuch a fcenc
of primitive fnnplicity, as was here exhibited, fmce
the days of the good king Tammany. The vener-
able grey-headed Caledonian fmilingly meets me
coming up to his houfe. " Welcome, Itranger ;
come in, a>nd reft ; the air is now very fultry ; it
is a very hot day.'* I was there treated with fome
excellent venifon, and here found friendly and fe-
cure ftielter from a tremendous thunder ftorm, which
came up from the N. W. and foon afler my arrival
began to difcharge its fury all around. Stepping
to the door to obferve the progrefs and diredion
of the tempeft, the fulgour and rapidity of the
Itreams of lightning, paffing from cloud to cloud,
and from the clouds to the earih, exhibited a very
awful fcene ; when inftantly the lightning, as it
were, opening a fiery chafm in the black cloud,
darted with inconceivable rapidity on the trunk of a
large pine tree, that ftood thirty or forty yards from
me, and fct it in a blaze. The flame inftantly

afcended

14 TRAVELS IN

afcended upwards of ten or twelve feet, and conti-
nued flaming about fifteen minutes, when it was
gradually extlnguifncd by the deluges of rain that
fell upon it.

I faw here a remarkably large turkey of 'the na.
tive wild breed : his head was above three feet
from the ground when he flood ereft ; he was a
ftately beautiful bird, of a very dark dufky brown
colour, the tips of the feathers of his neck, breaft,
back, and flioulders, edged with a copper colour,
which in a certain expofure looked like burnifhed
gold, and he feemed not infenfible of the fplendid
appearance he made. He was reared from an eggy
found in the foreft, and hatched by a hen of the
common domeflic fowl.

Our turkey of America is a very different fpe-
cies from the meleagris of Afia and Europe ; they
are nearly thrice their fize and weight. 1 have feen
feveral that have weighed between twenty and thirty
pounds, and feme have been killed that weighed
near forty. They are taller, and have a much
longer neck propordonally, and likewife longer
legs, and ftand more ereft j they are alfo very dif-
ferent in colour. Ours are all, male and female,
of a dark brown colour, not having a black feather
on them ; but the male exceedingly fplendid, with
changeable colours. In other particulars they differ
not.

The temped being over, I waited till the floods
of rain had run off the ground, then took leave of
my friends, and departed. The air was now cool
and falubrious, and riding feven or eight miles,
through a pine foreft, 1 came to Sapello bridge,
to which the fait tide flows. 1 here flopped, at

Mr,

NORTH AMER'CA. I5

Mr. Bailey*s, to deliver a letter from the governor.
This gentleman received me very civilly, inviting
me to flay with him ; but upon my urging the ne-
ceflity of my accelerating my journey, he permitted
me to proceed to Mr. L. IM'Intolh's, near the river,
to vi'hofe friendfhip I v.'^ recommended by Mr. B.
Andrews.

Perhaps, to a grateful mind, there is no intellec-
tual enjoyment, which regards human concerns, of
a more excellent nature, than the remembrance
of real a6ls of fiiendfhip. The heart expands at the
pleafing recollet!ilion. When I came up to his door,
the friendly man, fmiling, and with a grace and
dignity peculiar to himl'elf, took me by the hand,
and accofted me thus : " Friend Bartram, come
" under my roof, and I defire you to make my houfe
" your home, as long as convenient to yourfelf ; re-
" member, from this moment, that you are a part
*' of my family, and, on my part, I fhall endeavour
" to make it agreeable," which was verified du-
ring my continuance in, and about, the fouthern
territories of Georgia and Florida ; for I found here
fincerity in union with all the virtues, under the in-
fluence of religion. I fliall yet mention a remarka-
ble inftance of Mr. M'Intofli's friendlhip and refped
for me ; which was, recommending his eldeft fon,
Mr. John M'Into(h, as a companion in my travels.
He was a fenfible virtuous youth, and a very agree-
able companion through a long and toilfome journey
of near a thoufand miles.

Having been greatly refrefhed, by continuing a
few days with this kind and agreeable family, I pre-
pared to profecute my journey ibutherly.

CHAP.

l6 TRAVELS IN

CHAP. III.

I Sat off early in the morning for the Indian
trading-houfe, in the river St. Mary, and took the
road up the N. E. fide of the Alatamaha to Fort-Bar-
rington. 1 pafled through a well inhabited diftritt,
moftly rice plantations, on the waters of Cathead
creek, a branch of the Alatamaha. On drawing
near the fort, I was greatly delighted at the appear-
ance of two new beautiful fhrubs, in all their bloom-
ing graces. One of them appeared to be a fpecies
of Gordonia * but the flowers are larger, and more
fragrant than thofe of the Gordonia, Lafcanthus,
and are feffile ; the feed veffel is alfo very different.
The other was equally diftinguiflied for beauty and
fmgularity ; it grows twelve or fifteen feet high, the
branches afcendant and oppofite, and terminate with
large panicles of pale blue tubular flowers, fpeckled
on the infide with crimfon ; but, what is fmgular,
thefe panicles are ornamented with a number of
ovate large braftese, as white, and like fine paper,
their tops and verges fl:ained with a rofe red, which,
at a little diftance, has the appearance of clufl:ers of
rofes, at the extremities of the limbs : the flowers
are of the CI. Pentandria monogynia ; the leaves
are nearly ovate, pointed and petioled, {landing op-
pofite to one another on the branches.

After fifteen miles riding, I arrived at the ferry,

which is near the fite of the fort. Here is a confi-
derable height and bluff on the river, and evident

* Franklinia Ajatahama

vefl:iges

NORTH AMERICA. 1']

veftiges of an ancient Indian to\vn may be feen,'
fuch as old extenfive fields, and conical moujids,
or artificial heaps of earth. I here croffed the ri-
ver, which is about five hundred yards over, in a
good large boat, rowed by a Creek Indian, who
was married to a white woman ; he feemed an ac-
tive, civil, and fenfible man. I faw large, tall trees
of theNyffa coccinea, fi. Ogeeche, growing en the
banks of the river- They grow in the water, near
the fliore. There is no tree th^t exhibits a more
defirable appearance than tliis, a\ nhe autumn,
when the fruit is ripe, and the tree diverted of its
leaves ; for then they lock as red as fcailct, with
their fruit, which is of that colour aHo. It is of
the fhape, but larger than the olive, containing an
agreeable acid juice. The leaves are oblorg lan-
ceolate and entire, fomewhat hoary underneatn ;
their upper furface of a full green, and Ihining ;
the petioles fliort, pedunculis multifloris. The molt
northern fettlemcnt of this tree, yet known, is on
Great Ogeeche, where they are calle.i Ogeeche
limes, from their acid fruit being about the fize c£
limes, and their being fometimcs ufed in their
flead.

Being fafely landed on the oppofite bank, I
mounted my horfe, and followed the high road to
the ferry on St. Ille, about fixty miles fouth of the
Alatamaha, palling through an uninhabited wilder-
nefs. The fuddcn traniition from rich uncultivated
fettlements, to high pine forefts, dark and graffy
favannas, forms in my opinion no difagreeable con-
traits ; and the new objeds of obfervation in the
works of nature foon reconcile the furprifed ima-
gination to the change. As foon as I had loft fight
of the river, afcending fome iand-hill:i, I obferved

C a new

l8 TRAVELS ]N

a new and moft beautiful fpecies of Annona, hav-
ing cluftef s of large white fragrant flowers ; and a
diminutive but elegant Kalmia. The (terns are
very fmall, feeble, and for the mofl part undivided,
furnifhed with little ovate pointed leaves, and ter-
minate with a fimple racemi, or fpike of flowers,-
falver formed, and of a deep rofe red. The whole
plant is ciliated. It grows in abundance all over
the moifl: favannas, but more efpecialiy near ponds
and bay-fwamp.>. In fimilar fituations, and com-
monly a near neighbour to this new Kalmia, is feen
a very cuiious fpecies of Annona. It is very dwarf,
the Pccms feldo;n extending from the earth more
than a foot or eighteen inches, and are weak and
almoil decumbent. The leaves are long, extremely
narrow, almofl lineal. However, fmall as they are,
they retain the figure common to the fpecies, that
is, lanceolate, broadeft at the upper end, and atte-
nuating down to the petiole, which is very fliort ,
their leaves fl.and alternately, nearly ereft, forming
two fcries, or wings, on the arcuated ftems. The
flov^ers, both in fizc and colour, refemble thofe of
the Antiilobe, and are Tingle from the axiilas of the
leaves on incurved penduncull, nodding downwards.
I never faw the fruit. The dens, or caverns, dug
in the fand-hilis, by the great land-tortoife, called
here Gopher"^, preient a* very lingular appearance:
ihefe vail caves are their caftles and diurnal retreats,
from <vhence tiiey iflue forth in the night, in fearch
©f prey. The little mounds, or hillocks of frefli
earth, thrown up in great numbers in the night,
have alfo a cujIous appearance.

In the evening I arrived at a cow-pen, where
there was a habitation, and the people received me

* Toiludo Polyphfmus.

very

J'l.J

17. Z.

C V////<'V/a (//y///y//u>jrr,^

NORTH AMERICA. 1 9

very civilly. I ftaid here all night, and had for
fupper plenty of milk, butter, and very good cheefe
of their own make, which is a novelty in the mari-
time parts of Carolina and Georgia ; the inhabitants
being chiefly fupplied with it from Europe and the
northern dates. The next day's progrels, in ge-
neral, prefentcd fcenes fimilar to the preceding,
though the land is lower, more level and humid,
and the produce more varied : high open forefts of
ftately pines, flowery plains, and exjenfive green
favannas, chequered with the incarnate Chironia
pulcherrima, and Afclepias fragrans, perfumed the
air whilfl they pleafed the eye. I met with forae
troublefome cane fwamps, law herds of horned
cattle, horfes and deer, and took notice of a pro-
cumbent fpecics of Hibifcus, the leaves palmated,
the flowers large and expanded, pale yellow and^
white, having a deep crimfon eye ; the whole plant,
except the corolla, armed with ftifF hair. I alio
faw a beautiful fpecies of Lupin, having pale
green villous Hngulate * leaves; the flowers are
difpofed in long ercft fpikes ; fome plants produce
flowers of the fincll celeflial blue, others incarnate,
and fome milk white, and though they all three
feem to be varieties of one fpecies, yet they aflbci-
ate in feparate communities, fomctimcs approach-
ing near each other's border, or in fight at a dif-
tance. Their diflrids are fltuated on dry fandy
heights, in open pine foreili', which are naturally
thin of undergrowth, and appear to great advan-
tage ; generally where they are found, they occu-
py many acres of furface. The vegetative mould
is compofed of fine white fand, mixed, and colour-
ed, with diilolvedand calcined vegetable fubflancesj

* Liijinus brcur.is, foliis integerhnisoblongisvillolis.

C 2 bui-

id TRAVELS m

but this {Iratum is not very deep, and covers one of
a tenacious cinereous coloured clay, as we may ob-
ferve by the earth adhering to the roots of trees,
torn up by ftorms, &c. and by the little chimnies,
or air holes * f cray-fifh, which perforate the favan-
nas. Turkeys, quails, and fmall birds, are here to
be (een ; but birds are not numerous in defert fo-
refts ; they draw near to the habitations of men, as
I have conftantly obferved in all my travels.

I arrived at St. Ille*s in the evening, where I
lodged ; and next morning, having croffed over in a
ferry boat, fet forward for St. Mary's. The fitua-
tion of the territory, its foil and productions, be-
tween thefe two lall rivers, are nearly fimilar to
ihofe which I had paffed over, except that the fa-
vannas are more frequent and extenfive.

It may be propjsr to obferve, that I had now
paffed the utmoft frontier of the white fettlements
un that border. It was drawing on towards the
clofe of day, the jTs:ies ferene and calm, the air tem-
perately cool, and gentle zephyrs breathing through
the fragrant pines ; the profpeft around enchant-
ingly varied and beautiful ; endlefs green favannas,
chequered with coppices of fragrant fhrubs, filled
the air with the richeft perfume. The gaily attired
plants which enamelled the green had begun to im-
bibe the pearly dew of evening ; nature feemed
lilent, and nothing appeared to ruffle the happy
moments of evening contemplation ; when, on a
fudden, an Indian appeared crofling the path, at a
coniiderable diftance before me. On perceiving
that he was armed with a rifle, the firft fight of him
itartled me, and I endeavoured to elude his fight,
by (lopping my pace, and keeping large trees be-
tween us J but he efpied me, and turning fhort

about.

J.'ORTM AMERICA. il

about, fet fpurs to his horfe, and came up on full
gallop. I never before this was afraid at the fight
of an Indian, but at this time, I mull own that my
ipirits were very much agitated : I faw at once,
that being unarmed, I was in his power ; and hav-
ing now but a few moments to prepare, 1 refigned
myfelf entirely to the will of the Almighty, truft-
ing to his mercies for my pvefervation : my mind
then became tranquil, and I refolvcd to meet the
dreaded foe with reiolution and chearful confi-
dence. The intrepid Siminole ftopped fuddenly,
three or four yards before me, and filently viewed
me, his countenance angry and tierce, fhifling his
rifle from fhoulder to fhoulder, and looking about
inftantly on all fides. I advanced towards him, and
with an air of confidence offered him my hand,
baiUng him, brother ; at this he haftily jerked
back his arm, with a look of malice, rage, and dif-
dain, feeming every way difcontented ; when again
looking at me more attentively, he inftantly fpurred
up to me, and with dignity in his look and aclion,
gave me his hand. Poflibly the filent language of
his foul, during the moment of^ fufpenfe (for 1 be-
lieve his defign was to kill me when he firit came
up) was after this manner : " White man, thou
" art my ejiemy, and thou and thy brethren may
*' ha.ve killed .mine ; yet it mav noi. be fo, and even
" were that the cafe, thou art now alone, and in
" my power. Live ; the great Spirit forbids me
" to touch thy life ; go to thy brethren, tell them
'' thou faweft an Indian in the forells, who knew
" how to be humane and compaiEonate.^' in tine,
we (hook hands, and parted in a friendly manner,
in the midft ot a dreary wildernefs j and he inform-
ed me of the courfe and diftance to the trading-
houfe, where I found he had been extremely ill-
treated the day before.

I now

22 TRAVELS INT,

I now fat forward again, and after eight or ten
miles riding, arrived at the banks of St. Rlary's, op-
pofite the liores, and got fafe over before dark.
The river is here about one hundred yards acrofs,
has ten feet water, and, following its courfe, about
fixty miles to the fea, though but about twenty
miles by land. The trading company here received
and treated me with great civility. On relating
my adventures on the road, particularly the lafl:
with the Indian, the chief replied, with a counte-
nance that at once befpoke furprife and pleafure,
" My friend, confider yourfelf a fortunate man :
" that fellow,'* faid he, " is one of the greatefl vil-
" lains on earth, a noted murderer, and outlawed
*' by his countrymen. Lafl evening he was here,
*' we took his gun from him, broke it in pieces,
" and gave him a fevere drubbing : he, however,
*' made his efcape, carrying off a new rifle gun,
" with which, he faid, ^oing off, he would kill
'* the firfl white man he met."

On ferioufly contemplating the behaviour of this
Indian towards me, fo foon after his ill treatment,
the following train of fentiments infenfibly crowded
in upon my mind.

Can it be denied, but that the moral prineiple.
which direds the favages to virtuous and praife-
worthy aftions, is natural or innate ? It is certaii.
they have not the afliftance of letters, or thofe
means of education in the fchools of philofophy,
where the virtuous fentiments and aiflions of the
moft illuftrious charafters are recorded, and care-
fully laid before the youth of civilized nations :
therefore this moral principle muft be tnnate, or
they mud be under the immediate influence and
guidance of a more divine and powerful preceptor.

who.

NORTH AMEPvICA. CJ

who, on thefe occafiohs, inftantly infpircs them,
and as with a ray of divine light, points out to them
at once the dignity, propriety, i\nd beauty of vir-
tue.

The land on, and rfdjaccnt to, this river, not-
withftanding its arenaceous furface, appears natu-
rally fertile. The peach trees are large, healthy,
and fruitful ; and Indian corn, rice, cotton, and
indigo, thrive exceedingly. This fandy furface,
one vvould fuppoi'c, from its loofe texture, would
poflefs a percolating quality, and fuffer the ruin-
waters quickly to drain off; but it is quite the con-
trary, at Icaft in thefe low maritime fandy coun-
tries of Carolina and Florida, beneath the moun-
tains ; for in the fands, even the heights, where the
arenaceous firatum is perhaps five, eight, and ten
feet above the clay, the earth, even in the longcit
droughts, is moifl an inch or two under the furface ;
whereas, in the rich tenacious low lands, at fuch
times, the ground is dry, and, as it were, baked ma-
ny inches, and fometimes fome feet deep, and the
crops, as well as ahnoll nil vegetation, fuffer in
fuch foils and fituations. The reafon of this may-
be, that this kind of earth admits more frcelv of a
tranfpiration of vapours, arifmg from inteftine wa-
tery canals to the furface ; and probably thefe va-
pours are impregnated with faline or nitrous prin-
ciples, friendly and nutritive to vegetables ; how-
ever, of thefe caufes and fecret operations of nature
I am ignorant, and lefume again niy proper eni-
ploymenr, that of difcovering and colleding data
for theexercife of more able phyfiologiffs.

The favannas about St. Mary's, at this feafon,
difplay a very charming appearance of flowers and
yerdure \ their more elevated borders are varied

with

fl4 TRAVEr.S IN

wi-th beds of violets, lupins, Amaryllis atamafco,
and plants of a new and very beautiful fpecies of
Mimofa lenfitiva, which I think as admirable and
more charming than the celebrated Humble plant,
equally chafle and fearful of the hafty touch of the
furprifed admirer. The flower is larger, of a bright
damafk rofe colour, and exceedingly fragrant : the
whole plant is deftitute of prickles, but hairy : it is
procumbent, reclining itfelf upon the green turf,
and from thefe trailing branches proceeds an upright
peduncle, fix or eight inches high, fupporting an
oblong head of flowerets, which altogether, at a
imall diflance, have the appearance of an exuber-
ant field of clover ; and, what is fmgular, and
richly varies the fcene, there are interfpetfed
patches of the fame fpecies of plants, having flowers
of the fined golden yellow, and others fnow white ;
but the incarnate is mofl prevalent. Magnolia
glauca, Itea Clethra, Chionanthus, Gordonia lafi-
anthus. Hex auguilifolium, Olea Americana, Ho-
pea tincloria, &c. are feated in detached groves
or clumps, round about the ponds or little lakes,
at the lower end of the favannas. I obferved,
growing on the banks of this fequeitered river, the
following trees and flirubs : Quercus fempervirents,
(^ aquatica, CX Phillos, Q^ dentata, NylTa aquati-
ca, N. fylvatica, N. Ogeeche, fi. coccinca, Cupref-
fus difl:icha, Fraxinus aquatica, Rhamuus frangula,
Prunus laurocerafa, Cyrilla racemiflora, Myrica
cerifera, Andromeda ferruginia, Andr. nitida, and
the great evergreen Andromeda of Florida, called
Pipe-ftem Wood, to which I gave the name of An-
dromeda formofiffima, as it far exceeds in beauty
every one of this family.

The river St. Mary has its fource from a val'^
lake, or marfh, called Ouaquaphenogav^', which lie-^

betweei;

2<0RTH AMERICA. 25

between Flint and Oakmulge rivers, and occupies
?. fpace of near three hundred miles in circuit.
This vaft accumulation of waters, in the wet feafon,
appears as a lake, and contains fome large illands
or knolls, of rich high land ; one of which the pre-
fent generation of the Creeks reprefent to be a moll
blifsful fpot of the earth ; they fay it is inhabited
by a peculiar race of Indians, whofe women are in-
comparably beautiful ; they alfo tell you that this
terreftrial paradife has been feen by fome of their
enterprifmg hunters, when in purfuit of game, who
being loll in inextricable Iwamps and bogs, and on
the point of perilhing, were unexpectedly relieved
by a company of beautiful women, whom they call
daughters of the fun, who kintlly gave them fuch
provifions as they had with them, which were
chiefly fruit, or nges, dates. Sec. and fome com
cakes, and then enjoined them to fly for fafety to
their own country ; for that their hulbands were ■
fierce men, and cruel •. to Grangers : they further
fay, that ihefe hunters had a view of their fettle
ments, fituated on the elevated banks of an ifland,
or piomontory, in a beautiful lake ; but that in
their endeavours to approach it, they were in-
volved in perpetual labyrinths, and, like enchanted
land, fi.i!l as they imagined they had jufl: gained it,
it feemed to fly before them, alternately appearing
and difappearing. They refolved, at length, to
leave the delufive purfuit, and to return ; which,
after a number of inexpreffible difficulties, they ef-
fc<fi:ed. When they reported their adventures to
their countrymen, their young warriors were en-
flamed with an irrelilfible defire to invade, and
make a conquell of, fo charming a country ; but
all their attempts hitherto have proved abortive,
never having been able again to find that en-
chanting

26 TRAVELS IN

chanting fpot, nor even any road or pathway to it ;
yet they fay that they frequently meet with certain
iigns of its being inhabited, as the building of ca-
noes, footileps of men, &c. They tell another
fhory concerning the inhabitants of this fequeftered
country, which fcenis probable enough, which is,
that they are the pofterity of a fugitive remnant of
the ancient Yamafes, who efcaped mafTacre after a
bloody and decifive conflict between them and the
Creek nation (who, it is certain, conquered, and
nearly exterminated, that once powerful people),
and here found an afylum, remote and fecure from
the fury of their proud conquerors. It is, however,
certain that there is a vail lake, or drowned fwamp,
well known, and often vifited both by white and In.
dian hunters, and on its environs the moft valuable
hunting grounds in Florida, well worth contending
for, by thofe powers whofe territories border upon
it. From this great fource of rivers *, St. Mary
arifes, and meanders through a vail plain and pint^
forell, near an hundred and fifty miles to the ocean,
with which it communicates, between the points of
Amelia and Talbert iflands ; the waters flow deep
and gently down from its fource to the fea.

Having made my obfervations on the vegetable
produtiions of this part of the country, and ob-
tained fpecimens and feeds of fome curious trees
and flirubs (which were the principal objefts of this
excurfion) I returned by the fame road to the Ala-
tamaha, and arrived fafe again at the feat of my
good friend, L. M-Intofii, Efq. where I tarried a
few days to rcll and refreih myfelf, and to wait for

* Source of rivers. It is faid, that St. (lie, St. Miry, and the beautiful
river Little St. Juan, which difcharges its waters into the b ;y of Apalachi,
a: Sc. Miik's, take their rile from this fwimp.

my

NORTH AMERICA. IJ

my young companion and fellow pilgrim, Mr. John
M'Intofli, who, being fond of the enterprife, had
been fo active during my ab fence, in the neceflfary
preparations, that we had nothing to wait for now
hut Mrs. M'Intofh's final confent to give up her
fon to the perils and hardfhips of fo long a journey;
which difficult point being fettled, we fet off with
the prayers and benevolent wifhes of my compa-
nion's worthy parents.

CHAP.

23 TRAVELS IN

C II A P. IV.

E \ Ri.y in the moining, wc mounted our horfc.^^
and in two days arrived in Savanna ; here we>leamed
that the fuperintendant of Indian affairs had left the
capital, and was on his way to Augufta. I re-'
mained but one day in Savanna, which was em-
ployed in making up and forwarding the colle£lions
for Charlefton.

The day following we fet off for Auguffa, which
is on Savanna river, at leaft an hundred and fifty
miles by land from the capital, and about three
hundred by water. We followed the courfe of the
river, and arrived there after having had a profpe-
rous journey, though a little incommoded by the
heats of the feafon.

As nothing very material occurred on the road,
I fhall proceed to give a fummary account of the
obfervations I made concerning the foil, fituation,
and natural produdions of the country.

In our progrefs from the fea coaft, we rife gra-
dually, by feveral (leps or afcents, in the following
manner : Firft, from the fea-coaft, fifty miles b^ick,
is a level plain, generally of a loofe fandy foil,
producing fpacious high forefts, of pinus taeda, P.
lutea, P. fquarrofa, P. echinata, i. Quercus femper-
virens, 2 Quercus aquatica, 3. Q^ phillos, 4. Q.
tinftoria, 5. Q^ dentata, 6. (^ prinos, 7. Q. alba,
8. O. fmuata, 9. Q^ rubra, Liriodendron tuli-

I. Live Oak. 2. Delia-leaved Water Oak. 3. Willow-leaved Oak.
A. Great Black Oak. 5. Narrow-leaved Wintergreen Oak. 6. Swamp
White Oak. 7. White Oak. 8. Spanifh Oak. 9. P.ed Oak.

pifeva.

NORTH AMERICA. 2^

pifcra, I.iquidambar ftyraciflua, Morus rubra,
Cercis tilia, Populus heterophylla, Platanus ccci-
deiitalis, Laurus faiiatras, Lauras Borboiiia, Ho-
pea tincloria, Fraxinus excelfior, Nyilk, Ulmus,
Juglaus exakata, Halefa, Stewartia. Nearly one
third of this vait plain is what the inhabitants call
fwamps, which are the fources of numerous fmaU
rivers and their branches : thefe they call fait ri-
vers, bccaufe the tides flow near to their fources,
and generally carry a good depth and breadth of
water for fmall craft, twenty or thirty miles up-
wards from the fea, when they branch and fpread
abroad like an open hand, interlocking wiih each
other, and forming a chain of fwamps acrofs tht:
Carolinas and Georgia, fcvcrai hundred miles pa-
rallel with the fea coaft. Thefe fwamps are fed
and repleniflied conftantly by an infinite number of
rivulets and rills, which fpring out of the firll bank
or afcent : their native trees and fhrubs are, befides
moft of thofe already enumerated above, as fellow :
Acer rubrum, Nyifa aquatica, Cbionanihus, Celtis,
Fagus fylvatica, Sambricus ; and the higher knoils
afford beautiful clumps of Azalea nuda and Aznalea
vifcola, Corypha palma, Corvpha pumila, and Wiig-
nolia grandiiiora ; befides, the whole furface of the
ground between the trees and fhrubs appear to be
occupied with canes (Arundo gigantea) entangled
with feftoons of the floriferous Glycine frutefcens,
Bignonia fempervirens, Glycine apios, Smilax, va-
rious fpecies, Bignonia crucigera, Bign. radican?:,
Loniccra fempervirens, and a multitude of other
trees, , fhrubs, and plants lefs confpicuou^ ; and, in
very wet places, Cuprcffus diilicha. The upper
foil oi thefe fwamps is a perfedly black, foapy,
rich earth, or flit! mud, two or three feet deep,
©n a foundation or flratum of calcarejus foflil,

whicli

%0 TRAVELS IN

which the inhabitants call white marie ; and this is
the heart or flrength of thefe fwamps : they never
wear out or become poor, but, on the contrary,
are more fertile by tillage ; for when they turn up
this white marie, the air and winter frofts caufmg it
to fall like quicklime, it manures the furface : but
it has one difadvantage, that is, in great droughts,
when they cannot have water fufficient in their re-
fervoirs to lay the furface of the ground under wa-
ter, it binds, and becomes fo tough as to burn
and kill the crops, efpecially the old cleared lands ;
as, while it was frefh and new, the great quantity
of rotten wood, roots, leaves, &c. kept the fur-
face loofe and open. Severe droughts feldom hap-
pen near the fea coaft.

We now rife a bank of confiderable height, which
runs nearly parallel to the coaft, through Carolina
and Georgia : the afcent is gradual by feveral
flights or fteps, for eight or ten miles, the perpen-
dicular height whereof, above the level of the
ocean, may be two or three hundred feet (and thefe
are called the fand-hills), when we find ourfelves on
the entrance of a vaft plain, generally level, which
extends weft fixty or feventy miles, rifing gently as
the former, but more perceptibly. This plain is
moftly a foreft of the great long-leaved pine (P. pa-
luftris Linn.) the earth covered with grafs, inter-
fperfed with an infinite variety of herbaceous plants,-
and embellifhed with extenfive favannas, always
green, fparkling with ponds of water, and ornament-
ed with clumps of evergreen, and other trees and
fhrubs, as Magnolia grandifiora, Magnoha glauca,
Gordonia, Illex aquifolium, Quercus, various fpe-
ciec, Laurus Borbonia, Chionanthus, Hopea tincto-
ria, Cyrilla, Kalmia anguftlfolia, Andromeda, va-
rieties,

NORTH AMERICA. 3I

rieiies, Viburnum, Azalea, Rhus vernix, Prinos,
varieties, Fothergilla, and a new fhrub of great
beauty and fingularity : it grows erecl, feven or
eight feet high ; a miikitude of ereft items arifc
from its root ; thefe divide themfelves into afcend-
ant blanches, which are garnilhed with abiiAiance
of narrow lanceolate obtufe pointed leaves, of a
light green, fmooth and fliining. Thele branches,
with their many fubdivifions, terminate in fnnple
racemes of pale incarnate tlowers, which make a
fine appearance among the leaves ; the flowers are
fuccecdcd by deficcated triquetrous pcricarpi, each
containing a fmgle kernel.

The lowed fides of thefe favannas arc generally
joined by a great cane fwamp, varied with coppices
and hommocks of the various trees and (hrubs al-
ready mentioned. In thefe fwamps feveral rivulet?
take their rife, which drain them and the adjoining
favannas, and thence meandering to the rivers-
through the forefts, with their banks decorated with
Ihrubs and trees. The earth under this level plain
may be defcribed after the following manner : the
upper furface, or vegetative mould, is a light fandy
loam, generally nine inches or a foot deep, on a
firatum of cinereous coloured clay, except the
fand-hills, where the loofe fandy furface is much
deeper upon the clay ; Hone of any fort, or gravel,
i^ feldom feen.

The next afcent, or flight, is of much grea'cr
and more abrupt elevation, and continues riung by
broken ridges and narrow levels, or vales, for ten
or fifteen miles, when we reft again on another
extenfive nearly level plain of pine forefts, mixed
with various other Ixjrell trees, which continues
wefl forty cr fifty milts farther, and exhibits much

the

3S TRAVJEJLS I a

the fame appearance with 'the great fored lad men-
tioned ; its vegetable produdions nearly the fame,
excepting that the broken ridges by which we af-
cend to the plain are of a better foil ; the vegeta-
tive mould is fixed with particles of clay and fmall
gravely and the foil of a dufky brown colour, lying
on a rtratum of reddilh brown tough clay. The
trees and fhrubs are, Pinus lacda, great black Oak,
Quercus tin6loria, Q^ rubra, Laurus, Salfafras, Mag-
nolia grandiflora, Cornus Florida, Cercis, Halefia,
Juglans, acuminata, Juglans exaltata, Andromeda
arborea : and, by the fides of rivulets (which wind
about and between thefe hills and fwamps, in the
vales) Sty rax latifolia, Ptelea trifoliata, Stewartia,
Caiycanthus, Chionanthus, Magnolia tripetala, A-
zaiea, and others.

Thus have I endeavoured to give the reader a.
fhort and natural defcription of the vafl plain lying
between the region of Auguila and the fea coaft ; .
for from Augufta the mountainous country begins
(when compared to the level fandy plain already
paffed), although it is at leall an hundred and fifty
miles weft, thence to the Cherokee or Apaiachean
mountains ; and this fpace may \\ith propriety be
called the hilly country, every where fertile and de-
lightful, continually repleniihed by innumerable ri-
vulets, either courling about the fragrant hills, or
fpringing from the rocky precipices, and forming
many cafcades ; the coolnefs and purity of which
waters invigorate the air of this otherwife hot and
fultry climate.

The village of Augufta is fituated on a rich and
fertile plain, on the Savanna river j the buildings
are near its banks, and extend nearly two miles up
to the caiarafts, or fails, which are formed by the

finft

^

NORTH AMERICA. 33

firft chain of rocky hills, through which this fa-
mous river forces itfelf, as if impatient to repofe
on the extenfive plain before it invades the ocean.
When the river is low, which is during the fummer
months, the cataracts are four or five feet in height
acrofs the river, and the waters continue rapid and
broken, rufhing over rocks five miles higher up :
this river is near five hundred yards broad at
Augufta.

A few days after our arrival at Augufta, the
chiefs and warriors of the Creeks and Cherokees
being arrived, the Congrefs and the bufinefs of the
treaty came on, and the negociations continued un-
determined many days ; the merchants of Georgia
demanding at lead two millions of acres of land
from the Indians, as a difcharge of their debts,
due, and of long (landing : the Creeks, on the
other hand, being a powerful, and proud fpirited
people, their young warriors were unwilling to fub-
mit to fo large a demand, and their condud evi-
dently betrayed a difpofition to difpute the ground
by force of arms, and they could not at firft be
brought to liften to reafon and amicable terms ;
however, at length, the cool and deliberate coun-
fels of the ancient venerable chiefs, enforced by
liberal prefents of fuitable goods, were too power-
ful inducements for them any longer to refift,
and finally prevailed. The treaty concluded in
unanimity, peace, and good order ; and the ho-
nourable fuperintendant, not forgetting his promife
to me, at the conclufion, mentioned my bufinefs,
and recommended me to the protedion of the
Indian chiefs and warriors. The prefents being
diftributed amongft the Indians, they departed, re-
turning home to their towns. A company of fur-

D veyors

34 JRAVELS IN

veyors were appointed, by the governor and coun-
cil, to afcertain the boundaries of the new pur-
chafe ; they were to be attended by chiefs of the
Indians, felefted and delegated by their country-
men, to aflift, and be witnelies that the articles of
the treaty were fulfilled, as agreed to by both par-
ties in Congrefs.

Col. Barnet, who was chofen to condu£l this
bufinefs on the part of the Georgians, a gentleman
every way qualified for that important truft, in a
very friendly and obliging manner, gave me an in-
vitation to accompany him on this tour.

It was now about the middle of the month of
May ; vegetation, in perfedion, appeared with all
her attraftive charms, breathing fragrance every
where ; the atniofphere was now animated with the
efficient principle of vegetative life ; the arbuftive
hills, gay lawns, and green meadows, which on
every fide invefl the villa of Augafla, had already
received my frequent vifits ; and although here
much delighted with the new beauties in the vege-
table kingdom, and many eminent ones have their
fequeflercd refidence near this place, yet, as I was
never long fatisfied with prefent polfeflion, however
endowed with every poffible charm to attradt the
light, or intrinfic value, to engage and fix th^ ef-
leem, I was reftlefs to be fearching for more, my
curiofity being infatiable.

Thus it is with regard to our affections and at-
tachments, in the more important and interefting
concerns of human life.

Upon the rich rocky hills at the catarafts of Au-
jTufta, I firft obferved the perfumed rhododendron

ferrugineum.

NORTH AMERICA. 35

ferruginelim, white-robed philadelphus Inodorus,
and cerulean malva ; but nothing in vegetable na-
ture was more pleafing than the odoriferous pancra-
tium fluitans, which almoft alone poflefles the little
rocky iflets which jufl appear above the water.

The preparatory bufmefs of the furveyors being
riow accompliflied, Mr. J. M'Intofh, yet anxious
for travelling, and defirous to accompany me on this
tour, joined with me the caravan, confilling of fur-
veyors, aftronomers, artifans, chain-carriers, mark-
ers, guides, and hunters, befides a very refpcdtable
number of gentlemen, who joined us, in order to
fpeculate in the lands, together with ten or twelve
Indians, altogether to the number of eighry or
ninety men, all or moft of us well mounted on
horfeback, befides twenty or thirty pack-horfes,
loaded with provifions, tents, and camp equipage.

The fummer feafon now rapidly advancing, the
•air at mid-day, about this region, was infufferably
hot and fultry. We fet oft' from Augufta, early in
the morning, for the Great Buffalo Lick, on the
Great Ridge, which feparates the waters of the Sa-
vanna and Alatamaha, about eighty miles diftanc
from Augufta. At this Lick the furveyors were to
fcparate themfelves, and form three companies, to
proceed on different routes. On the evening of
the fecond day's journey, we arrived at a fmall vil-
lage on Little River, a branch of the Savanna : this
village, called Wrightfborough, was founded by
Jof. Mattock, efq. of the fed called quakers. This
public fpirited man having obtained for himfelf
and his followers a diftricl, comprehending up-
wards of forty thoufand acres of land, gave the new
town this name, in honour of Sir James Wright,
then Governor of Georgia, who greatly promoted

D 2 the

3^ TRAVELS IN

the eftabliihment of the fettlement. Mr. Mattock^
uho is now about feventy years of age, heahhy and
adive, and prefides as Chief Magiftrate of the fet-
tlement, received us with great hofpitality. The
diflance froni Augufta to this place is about thirty
miles ; the face of the country is chiefly a plain of
high forefls, favannas, and cane fwamps, until we
approach Little River, when the landfcape varies,
prefenting to view high hills and rich vales. The
foil is a deep, rich, dark mould, on a deep ftratum
of reddifli brown tenacious clay, and that on a foun-
dation of rocks which often break through both
flrata, lifting their backs above the furface. The
foreft trees are chiefly of the deciduous order, as,
quercus, tindloria, q. laciniata, q. alba, q. rubra,
q. prinus, with many other fpeci'es ; celtis, fagus
fylvatica, and, on the rocky Iiills, fagus caftanea,
fag. pumila, quercus caftanea ; in the rich vales,
juglans nigra, jug. cinerea, gledrtfia triacanthos,
magnolio acuminata, liriodendron, platanus, fraxi-
nus excelfior, cercea, juglans exaltata, carpinus,
morus rubra, calycanthus, halefia, scfculus pavia,
sefc. arborea^

Leaving the pleafant town of Wrightfborough
we continued eight or nine miles through a fertile
phin and high foreft, to the north branch of Little
River, being the largefl of the two, crofling which,
we entered an extenfive fertile plain, bordering on
the river, and fhaded by trees of vaft growth, which
at once fpoke its fertility. Continuing fome time
through thefe Ihady groves, the fcene opens, and
difclofes to view the moft magnificent forefl I had
ever feen. We rofe gradually a floping bank of
twenty or thirty fept elevation, and immediately
entered this fubUme forefl. The ground is perfedly

a iev4

NORTH AMERICA: 37

a level green plain, thinly planted by nature with
the moll {lately foreft trees, fuch as the gigantic
black * oak (q. tin£loria), liriodendron, juglans
nigra, platanus, juglans exaltata, fagus lylvatica,
ulmus fylvatica, liquidambar ftyraciflua, whole
mighty trunks, feemingly of an equal height, ap-
peared like fuperb columns. To keep within the
bounds of truth and reality, in defcribing the mag-
nitude and grandeur of thefe trees, would, I fear,
fail of credibility ; yet, I think I can affert, th?t
many of the black oaks meafured eight, nine, ten,
and eleven feet diameter five feet above thirty feet
as we meafured feveral that were above the ground,
girt, and from hence they afcend perfedlly Itraight,
with a gradual taper, forty or fifty feet to the limbs ;
but, below five or fix feet, thefe trunks would mea-
fure a third more in circumference, on account of
the projeding jambs, or fupports, which are more
or lefs, according to the number of horizontal
roots that they arife from : the tulip tree, liquidam-
bar, and beech, were equally (lately.

Not far diflant from the terrace, or eminence,
overlooking the low grounds of the river, many very
magnificent monuments of the power and induflry
of the ancient inhabitants of thefe lands are vifiblc.
I obferved a flupendous conical pyramid, or artifi-
cial mount of earth, vafl tetragon tei races, and a
large funken area, of a cubical form, encompalTed
with banks of earth ; and certain traces of a larger
Indian town, the work of a powerful nation, whofc
period of grandeur perhaps long preceded the dif-
covery of this continent.

♦ Gigantic black oak. Querc. tinAoria ; the oark cf this fpccies of oak
is found to afford a valuable 'yellow dye. This tree is known hv the
name of black oak ia Pennfylvania, New-Jerl«v, New-York, and New-
England.

After

jB TRAVELS IN

After about feven miles progrefs through this
foreft of gigantic black oaks, we enter on terri-
tories, which exhibit more varied fcenes : the land
tifes ahnoft infenfibly by gentle afcents, exhibiting
defart plains, high forefls, gravelly and ftony
ridges, ever in fight of rapid rivulets ; the foil, as
already defcribed. We then pafTed over large rich
favannas, or natural meadows, wide fpreading cane
fwamps, and frequently old Indian fettlements,
now deferted and overgrown with forells. Thefe
are always on or near the banks of rivers, or great
fwamps, the artificial mounts and terraces elevat-
ing them above the furrounding groves. I ob-
feived, in the ancient cultivated fields, i. diofpy-
ros,, 2. gleditfia triacanthos, 3. prunus chicafaw,
4. callicarpa, 5. morus rubra, 6. juglans exaltata,
7. juglans nigra, which inform us, that thefe trees
•were cultivated by the ancients, on account of their
fruit, as being wholefome and nourifhing food.
Though thefe are nativesof thcforefl*, yet they thrive
better, and are more fruitful, in cultivated planta-
tions, and the fruit is in great eftimation with the
prefent generation of Indians, particularly juglans
exaltata, commonly called fiiell-barked hiccory.
The Creeks ftore up the laft in their towns. I have
feen above an hundred bufhels of thefe nuts belong-
ing to one family. 'I'hey pound them to pieces,
and then caff them into boiling water, which, after
pafling through fine drainers, preferves the mofl
oily part of the liquid : this they call by a name
which fignifies hiccory milk ; it is as fvveet and rich
as frefh cream, and is an ingredient in mod of their
cookery, efpecially homony and corn cakes.

* The Chicafaw plumb I think muft be excepted, for though certainly
a native of America, yet I never law it wild in the foreft , but always in
•Id deferted Indian plantations : I fuppofe it to have be(*n brought froin
the S. W. bevond the Miffiflippi^ by the Chicafaws.

After

NORTH AMERICA, 39

After four days moderate and pleafant travel-
ling, we arrived in the evening at the Buifalo Lick.
This extraordinary place occupies feveral acres of
ground, at the foot of the S. E. promontory of the
Great Ridge, which, as before obferved, divides
the rivers Savanna and Alatamaha. A large cane
fwamp and meadows, forming an immenfe plain,
lie S. E. from it ; in this fwamp I believe the head
branches of the great Ogeeche river take their rife.
The place called the Lick contains three or four
acres, is nearly level, and lies between the head ot
the cane fwamp and the afcent of the Ridge. The
earth, from the fupcrticies to an unknouii depth,
is an almofl white orcinereous coloured tenacious
fattifh clay, which all kinds of cattle lick into great
caves, purfuing the delicious vein. It is the com-
mon opinion of the inhabitants, that this clay is im-
pregnated with faline vapours, arifmg from foflile
falts deep in the earth ; but I could difcover nothing
faline in its tafte, but I imagined an iniipid fweet-
jjefs. Horned cattle, horfes, and deer, are immo-
derately fond of it, infomuch, that their excrement,
which almoft totally covers the earth to fome dif-
tance round this place, appears to be perfe«5v: clay ;
which, when dried by the fun and air, ;s almoft as
Jiard as brick.

We were detained at this place one day, in ad-
jufting and planning the feveral branches of the
furvey. A circumflance occurred during thi^ time,
which \va$ a remarkable inftance of Indian faga-
city, and had nearly difconcerted iill our plans, and
put an elid to the bufmefs. The furveyor having fi?:ed
his compafs on the (lafF, and being about to afcer-
lain the courfe frcm our place of departure, which
"vlas to ftrike Savanna river at the confluence of a
certain river, about feventy miles diflance from us ;

juft

40 TRAVELS IM

juft as he had determined upon the point, the In-
dian chief came up, and obferving the courfe he had
fixed upon, fpoke, and faid it was not right ; but
that the couife to the place was fo and fo, hold-
ing up his hand, and pointing. The furveyor replied,
that he himfelf was certainly right, adding, that
that little inilrument (pointing to the compafs) told
him fo, which, he faid, could not err. The Indian
anfwered, he knew better, and that the little
wicked inftrument was a liar ; and he would not ac-
quiefce in its decifions, fmce it would wrong the
Indians out of their land. This miltake (the fur-
veyor proving to be in the wrong) difpleafed the
Indians ; the difpute arofe to that height, that the
chief and his party had determined to break up the
bufmefs, and return the ihortefl way home, and
forbad the furveyors to proceed any further : how-
ever, after fome delay, the complaifance and pru-
dent conduct of the colonel made them change their
refolution ; the chief became reconciled, upon con-
dition that the compafs Ihould be difcarded, and
rendered incapable of ferving on this bufmefs ; that
the chief himfelf fhould lead the furvey ; and, more-
over, receive an order for a very confiderable quan-
tity of goods.

Matters being now amicably fettled, under this
new regulation, the colonel having detached two
companies on feparate routes, Mr. M'Intofh and
myfelf attaching ourfelves to the colonel's party,
whofe excurfion was likely to be the moft extenfive
and varied, we fet off from the Buffalo Lick, and
the Indian chief, heading the party, conduced us
on a ftraight line, as appeared by collateral obfer-
vation, to the defired place. We purfued nearly a
north courfe up the Great Ridge, until we came
near the branches of Broad River, when we turned

NORTH AMERICA. 47

off to the light hand, and encamped on a confide-
rable branch of it. At this place we continued al-
mod a whole day, conftituting furveyors and aftro-
nomers who were to take the courfe, diftance and
obfervations on Broad River, and from thence down
to its confluence with the Savanna.

The Great Ridge confifts of a continued high
foreft ; the foil fertile, and broken into moderately
elevated hills, by the many rivulets which have
their fources in it. The heights and , precipices
abound in rock and flone. The forell trees and
other vegetable produ£lions are the fame as already
mentioned about Little River: I obferved hale-
fia, ftyrax, asfculus pavia, a^fc. fylvatica, robinia
hifpida, magnolia acuminata, mag. tripetala, and
fome very curious new fhrubs and plants, particu-
larly the phyfic-nut, or Indian olive. The ftem.s
arife many from a root, two or three feet high ;
the leaves fit oppofite on very {hort petioles ; they
are broad, lanceolate, entire, and undulated, hav-
ing fmooth furfaces of a deep green colour. Froni
the bofom of each leaf is produced a fmgle oval
drupe, (landing eredl, on long flender ftems ; it
has a large kernel, and thin pulp. The fruit is
yellow when ripe, and about the fize of an olive.
The Indians when they go in purfuit of deer, carry
this fruit with them, fuppofmg that it has the
power of charming or drawing that creature to
them ; from whence, with the traders, it has ob-
tained the name of the phyfic-nut, which means,
with them, charming, conjuring, or fafcinatin"-.
raalva fcandens, filix fcandens, perhaps a fpecies
of trichomancs ; the leaves are palmated, or ra-
diated ; it climbs and roves about, on fiirubs, in moid
ground. A very fingular and elegant plant, of an

unknown

4'2 TRAVELS IN

unknown family, called Indian lettuce, made its firft
appearance in thefe rich vales ; it is a biennial ; the
primary or radical leaves are fomewhat fpatuled,
or broad, lanceolate, and obtufe pointed, of a pale
yellowifh green, fmooth furface, and of a delicate
frame, or texture ; thefe leaves fpread equally on
every fide, almoft reclining on the ground ; from
their centre arifes a (Iraight upright ftem, five, fix,
or feven feet high, fmooth and poliflied : the ground
of a dark purple colour, which is elegantly pow-
dered with greenifh yellov/ fpecks ; the ftem, three-
fourths of its length, is embellifhed with narrow
leaves, nearly of the fame form with the radical ones,
placed at regular diftances, in verticilate order. The
iuperior one-fourth divifion of this ftem is formed
into a pyramidal fpike of flowers, rather diffufe ;
thefe flowers are of the hexandria, large, and ex-
panded ; of a dark purple colour, delicately pow-
dered with green, yellow, and red, and divided
into fix parts, or petals ; thefe are fucceeded by tri-
quetrous dry pericarpi, when ripe.

This great ridge is a vaft extended projedion of
the Cherokee or Alegany mountains, gradually in-
creafing in height and extent, from its extremity
at the Lick, to its union with the high ridge of
mountains anciently called the Apalachian moun-
tains; it every where approaches much nearer the
■waters of the Alatamaha than thofe of the Savanna.
At one particular place, where we encamped, on
the Great Ridge, during our repofe there part of
a day, our hunters going out^ underftanding that
their route was to the low lands on the Ocone,
1 accompanied them : we had not rode above
three miles before we Ci'rrie to the banks of that
beautiful river. The c^ine fwair.ps, of immenfe
.extent, 2^'" ''^ " oak.forefts, on the level lands,

are

NORTH AMERICA. 43

are incredibly fertile ; which appears from the tall
reeds of the one, and the heavy timber of the other.

Before we left the waters of Broad River, having
encamped in the evening on one of its confiderable
branches, and left mv companions, to retire, as ufual,
on botanical refearches, on afcending a fteep rocky
hill, I iccidentally difcovered a new fpecies of ca-
ryophillata (geum odoratiflimum) ; on reaching to
a (hrub my foot flipped, and, in recovering myfelf,
I tore up fome of the plants, whofe roots filled the
air with animating fcents of cloves and fpicy perfumes.

On my return towards camp, I met my philo-
fophic companion, Mr. M'lntoHi, who was feated
on the bank of a rivulet, and whom I found highly
entertained by a very novel and curious natural ex-
hibition, in which I participated with high relifh.
The waters at this place were flill and fhoal, and
flowed over a bed of gravel juil beneath a rocky
rapid : in this eddy (hoal were a number of little
gravelly pyramidal hills, whofe funmiits rofe almofl
to the furface of the water, very artfully conftrud-
ed by a fpecies of fmall cray-filh (cancer macrou-
rus) which inhabited them : here feemed to be their
citadel, or place of retreat for their young againfl
the attacks and ravages of their enemy, the gold-
fifli : thefe, in numerous bands, continually infefted
them, except at Ihort intervals, when fmall detach-
ments of veteran cray-fifh fallied out upon them,
from their cells within the gravelly pyramids, at
which time a brilliant fight prefented : the little gold
fi(h inilantly fled from every fide, darting through
the tranfparent waters like flreams of lightning ;
fome even iprang above the furface, into the air,
but all quickly returned to the charge, furround-
;ng the pyramids as before^ on the retreat of the

crayr

44 TRAVELS IN

cray-fifh ; in this manner the war feemed to be con-
tinual.

The gold-fifli is about the fize of the anchovy,
nearly four inches long, of a neat flender form ; the
head is covered with a falade of an ultramarine blue,
the back of a reddifh brown, the fides and belly of
a flame, or of the colour of a fine red lead ; a nar-
row duflcy line runs along each fide, from the gills
to the tail ; the eyes are large, vi^ith the iris like
burnifhed gold. This branch of Broad River is
about twelve yards wide, and has two, three, and
four feet depth of water, and winds through a fer-
tile vale, almofl: overfhadowed on one fide by a
ridge of high hills, well timl:)€red with oak, hic-
cory, liriodendron, magnolia acuminata, pavia fyl-
vatica, and on their rocky fummits, fagus caftanea
rhododendron ferrugineum, kalmia latifoHa, cornus
Florida, &c.

One of our Indian young men, this evening,
caught a very large falmon trout, weighing about
fifteen pounds, which he prefented to the colonel,
who ordered it to be ferved up for fupper. The In-
dian flruck this fifh, with a reed harpoon, pointed
very fliarp, barbed, and hardened by the fire. The
fifli lay clofe under the fteep bank, which the Indian
difcovered and (truck with his reed ; inftantly the fifli
darted off with it, whilft the Indian purfued, with-
out extradiiig the harpoon, and with repeated
thrufts drowned it, and then dragged it to fliore.

After leaving Broad River, the land rifes very
fenfibly, and the country being mountainous, our
progrefs became daily more difficult and flow ; yet
the varied fcenes of pyramidal hills, high forefts,
rich vales, ferpentine rivers, and catarads, fully

compenfated

NORTH AMERICA. 45

compeiifated for our difficulties and delays. I ob-
ferved the great aconitum napellus, delphini\im pe-
regririum, the carminative angelica lucida*, and «.e-
rulean malva.

We at length happily accompliflied our line, ar-
riving at the little river, where our hunters bring-
ing in plenty of venifon and turkeys, we had a plen-
tiful fealt at fupper. Next morning we marked the
corner tree, at the confluence of Little River and the
Savanna , and, foon after, the Indians amicably
took leave of us, returning home to their towns.

The rocks and foflils, which conftitute the hills
of this middle region, are of various fpecics, as
quartfum, ferrum, cos, fdex, glarea, arena, ochra,
ftaladltes, faxum, mica, &c. I faw no figns of
marble, plafter, or lime-flone ; yet there are, near
Augufla, in the forefls, great piles of a porous fri-
able white rock, in large and nearly horizontal
mafles, which feems to be an heterogeneous con-
crete, confilf ing of pulverized fea fhells, with a fmall
proportion of fand ; it is foft, and eafily wrought
into any form, yet of fufficient confiftence for con-
ftru6llng any building.

As for the animal produ6lions, thev are the fame
which originally inhabited this part of North Ame-
rica, except fuch as have been aifrighted away luice
the invafion of the Europeans. The buffalo (urus;
once fo very numerous, is not at this day to be feeii
in this pait of the country; there are but few elks, and
thofe only in the Apalachian mountains. The dreaded
and formidable rattle-fnake is yer too common, and
a variety of other ferpents abound, particularly that
admirable creature the glafs-ihake : 1 faw a very

* Called Qondo in. Virgi ..ia ; by thr Creek a.'id Chcrc kcc traders, white
root.

hrg'

46 TRAVELS IN

large and beautiful one, a little dlllance from our
camp. The alligator, a fpecies of crocodile, abounds
in the rivers and fwamps, near the fea coalt, but is
not to be feen above Augufta. Bears, tygers*,
wolves, and wild cats (felis cauda truncata) are
numerous enough : and there is a very great variety
of papilio and phalena, many of which are admir-
ably beautiful, as well as other infed:s of infinite va-
riety.

The furveyors having completed their obfervati-
ons, we fet ofF next day on our return to Augufta,
taking our route generally through the low lands on
the banks of the Savanna. We crofled Broad Ri-
ver, at a newly fettled plantation, near its conflu-
ence with the Savanna. On my arrival at Augufta,
finding myfelf a little fatigued, I ftaid there a day
or two, and then fet off again for Savanna, the ca-'
pital, where we arrived in good health.

Having, in this journey, met with extraordinary
fuccefs, not only in the enjoyment of an uninter-
rupted ftate of good health, and efcaping ill acci-
dents, incident to fuch excurfions, through unin-
habited wildernefles, and an Indian frontier, but alfo
in making a very extenfive colledion of new dif-
coveries of natural produftions ; on the recoUedion
of fo many and great favours and blefiings, I now,'
with a high fenfe of gratitude, prefume -to offer up'
my lincere thanks to the Almighty, the Creator and
Freferver.

* This creature is cr.lled, in Peimfylvania and the northern States, pan-
ther ; bwt in Carolina ;ind the fouthein States, is called fygerf it is very
ftrong, much larger than any dog, of a yellowilK brown, or clay colour, '
having a very long tail : it is a mifthievous animal, and preys on calves,
young colts, 6cc.

CHAPi

NORTH AMERICA. 47

CHAP. V.

Having completed my llortus Siccus, and made
up my colledlions of feeds and growing roots, the
fruits of my late weflern tour, and fent them to
Charlefton, to be forwarded to Europe, I fpent the
remaining part of this feafon in botanical excurfions
to the low countries, betw^een Carolina and Eaft
Florida, and collected feeds, roots and fpecimens,
making drawings of fuch curious fubjeds as could
not be preferved in their native ftate of excellence.

During this recefs from the high road of my tra-
vels, having obtained the ufe of a neat light cyprefs
canoe, at Bioughton liland, a plantation, the pro-
perty of the Hon. Henry Laurens, Efq. I ftored
myfelf with necefl'aries for the voyage, and refolvcd
upon a trip up the Alatamaha. ,

I afcended this beautiful river, on whofe fruitful
banks the generous and true fons of liberty fecurely
dwell, fifty miles above the white fettlements.

How gently flow thy peaceful flood?, O Alata-
maha ! How fublimcly rife to view on thy elevated
fliores, yon magnolian groves, from whofe tops
the furrounding cxpanfc is perfumed, by clouds of
incenfe, blended with the exhailing balm of the li-
q' idambar, and odours continually arifmg from cir-
cumambient aromatic groves of illicium, myrica, lau-
rus, and bignonia.

When wearied with working mv canoe ac^ainfl:
the impetuous current (which be:omc-r ftronger by

rv.'af(..!i

48 TRAVELS IN

reafon of the mighty floods of the river, with col-
lefted force, prelTing through the firfl hilly afcents,
where the fhores on each fide prefent to view rocky
cliffs rifmg above the furface of the water, in nearly
flat horizontal matfes, waihed fmooth by the de-
fcending floods, and which appear to be a compo^
fition, or concrete, of fandy lime-ft:one) I refigned
my bark tp the friendly current, referving to my-
felf the controul of the helm. My progrefs was
rendered delightful by the fylvan elegance of the
groves, cheerful meadows, and high difl:ant forefl:s,
which in grand order prefented themfelves to view.
The winding banks of the river, and the high pro-
jeding promontories, unfolded frefh fcenes of gran-
deur and fublimity. The deep forefts and difl:ant
hills re-echoed the cheering focial lowings of do-
melfic herds. The air was filled with the loud
and fhrill whooping of the wary fliarp-fighted crane.
Behold, on yon decayed, defoliated cyprefs tree,
the folitary wood-pelican, dejeftedly perched upon
its utmofl elevated fpire ; he there, like an ancient
venerable fage, fets himfelf up as a mark of deri-
fion, for the fafety of his kindred tribes. The
crying-bird, another faithful guardian, fcreaming
in the gloomy thickets, warns the feathered tribes
of approaching peril ; and the plumage of the iwift
failing fquadrons of Spanifh curlews (white as the
immaculate robe of innocence) gleams in the ceru-
lean flvies.

Thus fecure and tranquil, and meditating on the
marvellous fcenes of primitive nature, as yet un-
modified by the hand of man, I gently defcended
the peaceful ilream, on whofe polifhed furface were
depitSted the mutable fhadows from its penfile banks ;
whiKt myriads of finny inhabitants fported in its pel-
lucid floods.

The

NORTH AMERICA. ... 4.(^

The glorious fovereign of day, clothed in light
refulgent, rolling on his gilded chariot, hallened to
revifit the weftern realms. Grey penfive eve naw
admonilhed us of gloomy night's hafty approach : I
was roufed by care to feek a place at fecure repofe,
ere darknefs came on.

Drawing near the high fhores, I afcended the
fteep banks, where flood a venerable oak. An ar-
cicnt Indian field, verdured over with fucculent
giafs, and chequered with coppices of fragrant
ihrubs, olfered to my view the Myrica cerifera.
Magnolia glauca, Laurus benzoin, Laur. Borbonia,
Rhamiius trangula, Prunus Chicafaw, Prun. lau-
rocerafus, and others, it was nearly encircled with
an open forelt of (lately pines (Pinus palullris)
through which appeared the extenfive favanna, the
fecure range of the Iwift roebuck. In front of my
landing, and due eaft, 1 had a fme profpeft of the
river and low lands on each fide, which gradually
widened to the fea coafl, and gave me an uncon-
fined profpeifl, whilft the far dillant fea-coa(l iilands,
like a coronet, limited the hoary horizon.

My barque being fecurely nioored, and having
reconnoitred the furrounding groves, and collected
fire-wood, I fprcad my fkins and blanket by my
cheerful fire, under the protecling ihade of tlie hoi-
pitable Live-oak, and reclined my head on my hard
but healthy couch. I lillened, undilturbed, to the
divine hymns of the feathered fongftcrs nf the
groves, whilfl the foftly whifpering breezes faintly
died away.

The fun now below .the vi'eriern horizon, the
/r.oon majeflically rifmg in the eafl ; again the tune-
ful birds became infpired : how melodious is the
lo/:ial mock-bird ! the groves refounJ the unceafing

K crits

5& TRAV£LS IN

cries of the whip-poor-will ; the moon abouf aii
hour above the horizon ; lo ! a dark ecHpfe * of her
glorious brightnefs came flowly on ; at length, a
filver thread alone encircled her temples : at this
boding change, an iiniverfal filencc prevailed.

Nature now weary, I refigned myfelf to reft ; the
night pafl'cd over ; the cool dews of the morning
awoke me ; my fire burnt low ; the blue fmoke
fcarce rofe above the moiftened embers ; all was
gloomy : the late ftarry fides, now overcall by thick
clouds, warned me to rife and be going. The
livid purple clouds thickened on the frowning brows
of the morning : the tumultuous winds from the,
eaft now exerted their power. O peaceful Alatama-
ha ! gentle by nature ! how thou wert ruffled ! thy
wavy furface disfigured every obie«5l, prefenting
them obfcurely to the fight, and they at length to-
tally difappeared, whilfl the furious winds and fweep-
ing rains bent the lofty groves, and proflrated the
quaking grafs, driving the affrighted creatures to
their dens and caverns.

The tempeft now relaxed, its impetus being fpent,
and a calm ferenitv gradually took place ; by noon the
clouds broke away, the blue fl;y appeared, the fulgid
fun-beams fpread abroad their animating light, and
the fleady wellern wind refumed his peaceful re^gn.
The waters were purified, the waves fubfided, and the
beautiful river regained its native calmnefs. So it is
with the varied and mutable fcenes of human events
on the ftream of life. The higher powers and af-
feftions of the foul are fo blended and connected
with the inferior pafTions, that the moft painful feel-
ings are excited in the mind when the latter arc
crofTed : thus in the moral fyftem, which we have

* The air at this time being ferene, and not a qloud to he fcen, I f: -v
this annual almoft total autumnal eclipfe in its highcft degree of peifeclion.

planned

NORTH AMERICA. 5^1

planned for our condu6l, as a ladder whereby to
mount to the fummit of terreftrial glory and hap-
pinefs, and from whence wc perhaps meditated our
flight to heaven itfelf, at the very moment when we
vainly imagine ourfelves to have attained its point,
fome unforefeen accident intervenes, and furprifes
us ; the chain is violently fhaken, we quit our hold
and fall : the well contrived fyilem at once becomes
a chaos ; every idea of happinefs recedes ; the fplen-
dour of glory darkens, and at length totally difap-
pears ; every pleafmg obje<5l is defaced, all is de-
ranged, and the flattering fcenc paflTes quite away ;
a gloomy cloud pervades the underlfanding, and
when we fee our progrefs retaraed, and our bcft
intentions frufl:rated, we are apt to deviate from the
admonitions and convidions of virtue, to fliut our
eyes upon our guide and protestor, doubt of his
power, and defpair of his afliflance. But let us wait
and rely on our God, who in due time will fhine
forth in brightnefs, diflipate the envious cloud, and
reveal to us how fmite and cirxzumfcribed is human
power, when afluming to itfelf independent wifdom.

But, before I leave the river Alatamaha, wc
will proceed to give a further and more particular
account of it. It has its fource in the Cherokee
mountains, near the head of Tugilo, the great
weft branch of Savanna, and, before it leaves
them, is joined and augmented by innumerable
rivulets ; thence it defcends through the hilly
country, with all its collateral branches, and winds
rapidity amongil the hills two hundred rind fifty
miles, and then enters the flat plain country, by
the name of the Oakmulge „ thence meandering an
hundred and fifty miles, it is joined on the eafi: fide
by the Ocone, which likewife heads in the lower
ridges of the mountains. After .this confluence,

jE ^ ' bavin ?•

52 TkAVELS IN

having now gained a vaft acquifition of wr.rers, it
aflumes the name of Alatamaha, when it becomes
a large majeftic river, flowing with gentle wind-
ings through a vaft plain forelt, near an hundred
miles, and enters the Atlantic by feveral mouths.
The north channel, or entrance, glides by the
heights of Darien, on the ead bank, about ten miles
above the bar, and running from thence with fe-
veral turnings, enters the ocean between Sapello
and Wolf iflands. The fouth channel, which is
efleemed the largeft and deepefl, after its fepara-
tion from the north, defcends gently, winding by
M'Intofh's and Broughton iflands ; and lafl:ly, by
the weft coaft of St. Simon's ifland, enters the
ocean, through St. Simon's found, between the
fouth end of the ifland of that name and the north
end of Jekyl ifland. On the well banks of the
fouth channel, ten or twelve miles above its mouth,
and nearly oppofite Darien, are to be leen the re-
mains of an ancient fort, or fortification ; it is now
a regular tetragon terrace, about four feet high,
with baftions at each angle ; the area may con-
tain about an acre of ground, but the fofle which
furrounded it is nearly filled up. I'here are large
Live Oak, Pines, and other trees, growing upon
it, and in the old fields adjoining. It is fuppofed
to have been the work of ihe French or Spaniards,
A large fwamp lies betwixt it and the river, and a
confiderable creek runs clofe by the works, and en-
ters the river through the fwamp, a fniall difliance
above Broughton ifland. About feventy or eighty
miles above the confluence of the Oakmulge and
Ocone, the trading path, from Augufl;a to the Creek
nation, crolTes thefe fine rivers, which are there
forty miles apart. On the eaft banks of the Oak-
mulge, this trading road runs nearly two miles
through

NORTH AMERICA. 53

through ancient Indian fields, which are called the
Oakmulge fields : they are the rich low lands of the
rivt-r. On the heights of thcfe low grounds are yet
vifible monuments, or traces, of an ancient town,
fuch p ; artificial mounts or terraces, fquares and
bank , encircling confiderable areas. Their old
fiel,:: and planting land extend up and down the ri-
ver', fifteen or twenty miles from this fite.

: v'f are to give credit to the account the Creeks
givcof themfelves, tliis place is remarkable for being
the hrft town or lettlement, when they fat down (as
they term it) or ellabliihed themfelves, after their
emigratio!! from the wefi, beyond the Miififlippi,
their original native country. On this long jour-
ney they fuffered great and innumerable difficulties,
encountering and vanquifhiuT i-umerous and valiant
tribes of Indians, who oppoled and retarded their
march. Having crofied the river, flill pufhing eafl-
ward, they v/ere obliged to make a fland, ;.nd for-
tify themfelves in this place, as tlieir only remain-
ing hope, being to the laft degree perfecuted and
weakened by their furrounding foes. Having;
formed for themfelves this retreat, and driven off
the inhabitants by degrees, they recovered their
fpirits, and again faced their enemies, when they
came off viftorious in a memorable and decifive bat-
tle. They afterwards gradually fubdued their fur-
rounding enemies, ftrengthening themfelves by tak-
ing into confederacy the vanquifhed tribes.

And they fay, alfo, that about this period the
Englifh were eltablifhing the colony of Catolina ;
and the Creeks, underftanding that they were a
powerful, warlike people, fent deputies to Charlef-
toii, their capital, offering them their friendfhip and
alliance, which was accepted, and, in confequence

thereof.

54 TRAVELS IN

thereof, a treaty took place between them, which
has remained inviolable to this day. They never
ceafed war againfl the numerous and potent band
of Indians, who then furrounded and cramped the
Engliih plantations, as the Savannas, Ogeeches,
Wapoos, Santees, Yamalees, Utinas, Icofans, Pa-
ticas, and others, until they had extirpated them.
The Yamafees and their adherents flickering them-
lelves under the power and protection of the Spani-
niards of Eall Florida, they purfued them to the
very gates of St. Auguftine ; and the Spaniards re-
•fufmg to deliver them up, thefe faithful intrepid al-
lies had the courage to declare war againft them,
and inceifantly perfecuted them, until they entirely
•broke up and ruined their fettlements, driving them
.before them, till at length they were obliged to re-
tire within the walls of St. Augufline and a few in-
ferior fortihed pofts on the fea coaft.

After a fevi^ days I returned to Broughton ifland-
The Cherokees and their confederates being yet dif-
contented, and on bad terms v/ith the white people,
it was unfafe to purfue my travels in the north wef-
tern regions of Carolina. And recollediling many
fubjecls of natural hiftory, which I had oblerved in
the fouth of the iilhmus of Florida, when on a jour-
ney fome years ago with my father, John Bartram,
that were interefting, and not taken notice of by
any traveller ; and as it was then in the autumn and
winter, having reafon to think that very many curi-
ous fubjetfh had efcaped our refearches ; I now
formed the refolution of travelling into F.aft Florida ;
accordingly, I immediately wrote to dotlor Fother-
gill, in order that he might knov/ where to direft
to me.

PAR

NORTH AMERICA. ^$

PART II.

C H A P. I.

We are, nil of us, fubject to croffes and difap-
poiiitmenis, but more cfpecially the traveller ; and
when they fuiprife us, we frequently become reft-
lefs and impatient under them ; but let us rely on
Providence, and by lludying and contemplating the
works and power of the Creator, learn wifdom and
underftanding in the economy of nature, and be fe-
rioully attentive to the divine monitor within. Let
us be obedient to the ruling powers in fuch things as
regard human affairs, our duties to each other, and
all creatures and concerns that are fubmitted to our
care and controul.

In the month of March, 1774, I fet off from Sa-
vanna, for Florida, proceeding by land to the Ala-
tamaha, where I diverted my time agreeably in
lliort excurfion?, picking up curiofities, until the
arrival of a fmall vellel at Frederica, from Savanna,
which was deftined to an Indian trading houfe high
up St. John's, in Ealt Florida. Upon inforAiation
of this veflei's arrival, I immediately took boat and
defccnded the Alatamaha, calling by the way of
Broughton ifland, where 1 was kindly received by
Mr James Bailey, ]\Ir. Laurens's agent. Leaving
Broughton ifland in the evening, I continued de-
fcending the fouth channel nine or ten miles, when,
after crofling the found, I arrived at Frederica, on
the ifland of St. Simon, where 1 was well received
and entertained by James Spalding, efq. This gen-
tleman

5^ 1 RAVELS IN

tleman carrying on a very confiderable trade, and
having extenfive conneclions with the Indian tribes
of Eafl Florida, gave me letters to his agents refid-
ing at his trading houfes, ordering them to furnifli
me with horfes, guides, and every other convenient
afli fiance.

Before the veflcl was ready to fail again for St.
John's, I had time to explore the ifland. In the
cool of the morning early, 1 rode out of the town,
direding my courfe to the fouth end of the ifland.
After penetrating a thick grove of oaks, which al-
mofl furrounded the town on the land-fide, fudden-
ly a very extenfive and beautiful green favanna
opened to view, in length nearly two miles, and in
breadth near a mile, well ftocked with horned cat-
tle, horfes, flieep, and deer. Following an old
highway, now out of repair, acrofs the Savanna,
I afcended the doping green bank, and entered a
tioble forefl of lofty pines, and then a venerable
grove of Live Gaks, under whofe fhady fpreading
boughs opened a fpacious avenue, leading to the
former feat of general Oglethorpe, but now the
property of capt. Raimond Demere. After leav-
ing this town I was led into a high pine foreft ;
the trees were tall, and generally of the fpecies
called Broom-pine (P. paluftris Linn.) the furface
oi the ground covered with grafs, herbage, and
fome Ihrubbery : 1 continued through this foreft
nearly in a diredl line towards the fea-coaft, iive or
fix miles, when the land became uneven, with
ridges of fand-hills, mixed with fea-ftielh, and co-
vered by almoft impenetrable thickets, confifting
of Live Oaks, Sweet-bay (L. Borbonia), Myrica^
Ilex aquifolium, Rhamnus frangula, CalTmc, Sider-
Dxylon, Ptelea, Halefia, Callicarpa, Carpinus, en-
tangled with Smilax pfeudo-ci^ina, and ' other -

fpecies.

L

NORTH AMERICA. 5/

fpecies, Bignonia fempervirens, B. crucigera, Rham-
nus volubilis, ^^c. This dark labyrinth is fuccecded
by a great extent of fait plains, beyond whi:h the
boundlefs ocean is feen. Betwixt the dark forefl
and the fait plains, I crofied a rivulet of freui wa-
, ter, where I fat down a while to rell inyfelf, under
the fliadow of fweet Bays and Oaks ; the lively
breezes were perfumed by the fragrant breath of
the fuperb Crinum, called by the inhabitants, White
Lily. This admirable beauty of the fea-coafl-
iflands dwells in the humid Ihady groves, where the
foil is made fertile and mellow by the admixture of
fea fhclls. The delicate flrudure of its fpaJix, its
green broad leaves, and the texture and whitenefs
of its flowers, at once charmed me. The Euphor-
bia pida. Salvia coccinea, and Ipomea erecta,
were alfo feated in front of my relling place, as
well ivs rhe Lycium falfum (perhaps L. Afrum Linn.)
a very beautiful ever-green ihrub, its cerulean
flowers, and coral red berries, always on its
branches, forming not the leafl: of its beauties.

Time now admonifliing me to rife and be going,
I, with reluctance, broke away from this alTcrablv
of maritime beauties.

Continuing on, fouthward, the fait plains on my
left hand infenfibly became narrower, and I at
length reached the flrand, which was level, firm,
and paved with lliells, and aflbrded nie a grand
view of the boundlefs ocean.

0 thou Creator fupreme, almighty ! how infinite
and incomprehenfible thy works ! mod perfed, and
every way aftonilhing !

1 continued nearly a mile along this firm (lindy

ing niv

horlb'i

beach, the waves of the fea fometimes wafhina niv

5S TRAVELS IN

horfe's feet. I obferved a great variety of fliell-
fifh, as' Echinitis, Corallinus, Patella, Medufa,
Buccina, Concha venerea, Aurls marina, Cancer,
Squilla, &c. fome alive, and others dead, having
been cad upon the beach by the feas, in times of
temped, where they became a prey to fea fowl,
and Other maritime animals, or periihed by the heat
of the fun and burning fands. At length I doubled
the utmofl fouth point of St. Simon's, which forms
the north cape of the fouth channel of the great
river Alatamaha. The found, jufl within this cape,
forms an excellent bay, or cove, on the fouth end
of the ifland, on the oppofite fide of which I be-
held a houfe and farm, v/here I foon arrived. This
delightful habitation was fituated in the midll of a
fpacious grove of Live Oaks and Palms, near the
Itrand of the bay, commanding a view of the inlet.
A cool area furrounded the low but convenient
buildings, from whence, through the groves, was
a fpacious avenue into the ifland, terminated by a
large favanna ; each fide of the avenue was lined
with bee-hives, to the number of fifty or fixty ;
they feemed to be well peopled, and exhibited a
lively image of a colony that has attained to a Hate
of power and affluence, by the pradice of virtue
and induftry.

When I approached the houfe, the good man,
who was reclining on a bear-ikin, fpread under the
fhade of a Live Oak, fmoking his pipe, rofe and
faluted me : " Welcome, ftranger, I am indulg-
ing the rational dictates of nature, taking a little
rell:, having ju(l come in from the chace and fifn-
ing." After fome converfation and reft, his fer-
vant brought a bowl of honey and water, a very
refrefning and agreeable liquor, of which I drank.
On rifing to take my departure, he objeded, and

rcquefted

NORTH AMERICA. 59

requefted me to flay aiid dine with hira ; and on
my pleading, for excufe, the neccfTity of mv being
at Frederica, " Yet, I pray you, Itay a little, 1 will
foon have fome retrelhment for you." Prefently
was laid before us a plentiful repaft of venifon, ;?cc. ;
our drink being honey and water, llrengthened by
the addition of brandy. Our rural table was fpread
under the fhadow of Oaks, Palms, and Sweet Bays,
fanned by the Uvely falubrious breezes wafted from
the fpicy groves. Our mufic was the rcfponflve
love-lays of the painted nonpareil, and the alert
and gay mock-bird ; whilil the brilliant humming-
bird darted through the flowery groves, fufpended
in air, and drank neiflar I'rom the flowers of the
yellow Jafmine, Lonicera, Andromeda, and fwcet
Azalea.

But yet, how awfully great and fublime is tlie
majeftic fcene eaftward ! the folemn found of the
beating furf ilrikes our ears ; the daflnng of yon
liquid mountains, Hke mighty giants, in vain aiTail
the fkies ; they are beaten back, and fall prollrate
upon the fnores of the trembling illand.

Taking leave of my fylvan friend, I fat off on
my return to the town, where I arrived before
night, having obferved, on the way, many curious
vegetable productions, particularly Corypha Palma
(or great Cabbage Palm) Corypha pumila, Corypha
repens^ frondibus expanfis, liabelliFormibus, plica-
tis, ftipit. fpinofis (Dwarf Saw Palmetto) Corypha
obliqua, caudice arboreo adfcendente, frondibus
expanfis, flabelhformibus, plicatis, flipit. ferratis,
Cyrilla, Tillandfia monollachya, 'rill. linguiata, or
Wild Pine ; both thefe curious vegetables are pa-
rafites, living on the fubftance of others, particu-
larly on the limbs of the Live Oak ; the latLcr fpc-

cics

6o TRAVELS IN

cies is a very large fiourifhing plant, grezitly ref-
fembling, at fome diftance, a well grown plant of
the Bromelia Ananas : the large deep green leaves
are placed in an imbricated order, and afcendant ;
but their extremities are reflex, their bafes gibbous
and hollowed, like a ladle, and capable of con*
taining near a pint of water : heavy tempefts of
wind and rain tear thefe plants from the trees ; yet
they live and flourifn on the earth, under the fha-
dow of thefe great Live Oaks. A very large pare
of this illand had formerly been cleared and planted
by the Englifl-i, as appeared evidently to me, by
veftiges of plantations, ruins of coflly buildings,
highways, Sec. but it is novv' overgrown wiih foreits.
Frederica was the firft town built by the Englifli in
Georgia, and was founded by general Oglethorpe,
who began and eftablifhed the colony. The for-
trefs v/as regular and beautiful, conftrufted chiefly
with brick, and was the largeft, mod regular, and
perhaps mofl: coftly, of any in North America, of
Britifli conftru6lion : it is now in ruins, yet occu-
pied by a final 1 garrifon ; the ruins alfo of the
town only remain ; peach trees, figs, pomegra-
nates, and other fiirubs, groxv out of the ruinous
walls of former fpacious and expenfive buildings,
not only in the town, but at a diftance in various
parts of the ifland ; yet there are a few neat houfes
in good repair, and inhabited : it feems now reco-
vering again, owing to the public and liberal fpirit
and exertions of J. Spalding, efq. who is prefident
of the ifland, and engaged in very extenfive mer-
cantile concerns.

CHAP-

NORTH AMERICA. 6l

CHAP. II. ,

The vcffel In which I was to embark for Eaft:
Florida, being now ready to pinTue her voyage, we
iet fail with a fair wind and tide. Our courfe was
fouth, through the found, betwixt a chain of fea-
coaft-iflands, and the main. In the evening we
came to, at the fouth end of St. Simon's, having
been hindered by the flood tide makinf]; ai^ainfl; us.
The captain and myfelf, with one of our ciew, went
on fhore, with a view of getting fome venifon and
fca fowl. We had not the good fortune to fee any
deer, ycc we were not altogether unfuccefsful, hav-
ing taken three young racoons (Urfus cauda elon-
gata) which are excellent meat : we had them for
fupper, fcrvcd up in a pillo. Next morning early,
we again got under way, running by Jekyl and
Cumberland Iflands, large, beautiful, and fertile, yet
thinly inhabited, and confequently excellent haunts
for deer, bears, and other game.

As we ran by Cumberland Ifle, keeping the chan-
nel through the found, we faw a fail a head coming
up tovv'ards us. Our captain knew it to be the
trading fchooner from the fl:ores on St. John's, and
immeciiatciy predicted bad news, as Ciit was not to
iail until our arrival there. As fhe approached us,
his apprehenfions were more and more confirmed,
Irom the appearance of a number of paffengers on
deck. AVe laid to, until ihe came up, when wc
hailed her, " What news ?" " Bad ; the Indians
have plundered the upper (lore, and the traders have
cfcaped, only with their lives." Upon this both
• effels came to anchor very near each other, when

learning

62 TRAVELS IN

learning the particulars, it appeared, that a large
party of Indians had furprifed and plundered two
trading houfes, in the ilthmus, beyond the river St.
John's; and a third being timely apprifed of their hof-
tile intentions, by a faithful runner, had time to carry
Gif part of the effecls, which they fecreted in a fwamp
at fome diftance from it, covering them with (kins.
The upper ftore liad faved their goods in like man-
ner ; and the lower flore to which we were bound,
had removed the chief of theirs, and depofited them
on a fmall ifland, in the river, about five miles be-
low the ftore. With thefe effects was my cheft, which
I had forwarded in this velfel, from Savanna, not
being at that time determined whether to make
this journey by land, or water. The captain of our
veffel, refolved to put about and return to Frede-
rica, for frefh inftruclions how to proceed ; but for
my part, I was determined to proceed for the ifland
up St. John's, where my chefl was lodged, there be-
ing fome valuable books and papers in it, which I
could not do well without.. I accordingly defired
our captain to put me on fhofe, on Little St, Si-
mon's, which was no'c far diftant, intending to walk
a few miles to a fort, at the fouth end of that ifland,
wh^rfe fome fifliermen reiided, who, as I expefled,
would fet me over on Amelia Ifland, where
vvas a large plantation, the property of Lord Eg-
mont, a Britifii nobleman, whofe agent, while I
was at Frederica, gave me an invitation to call on
him, as I paiTed toward Ealt Florida ; and here I
had expectations of getting a boat to carry me to
St. John's. Agreeably to my defire, the captain
put me on fliore, with a young man, a paifenger,
for Eafl Florida, who promifed to continue with me,
and fhare my adventures. We landed fafely ; the cap-
tain wifliing us a profpcrous journey, returned on

board

North America, 6^

board his veflel, and we proceeded for the fort, en-
countering fome harfn treatment fi om thorny thick-
^;ts, and prickly vines. However we reached the
fort in the evening. The commander was out in the
ioieito' hunting. My companion being tired, or in-
dolent, betook himfelf to reft, while I made a tour
round the fouth point of the ifland, walking the
ihelly payed fea beach, and picking up novelties. . I
had not gone above a mile before I came up to a
roebuck, lying flain on the fands ; and hearing the
report of a gun, not far off, and fuppofmg it to be
from the captain of the fort, whom I expedted foon
to return to take up his game, I retired to a little
diilance, mounted the fand hills, and fat down, en-
ioying a fine profpedt of the rolling billows and
foaming breaker?, beating on the oar, and north
rtromontcry of Amelia lile, oppofite to v^e. The
captain of the fort foon came up, with a flain buck
on his fhoulders. We hailed each other, and re-
turned together to the fort, where we were well
treated, and next morning, at my requefl, the
captain obligingly fet us over, landing us fafcly on
Amelia. After walking through a Ipacious forefl
of Live Oaks and Palms, and crofTmg a creek that
ran through a narrow fait niarfli, 1 and my fellow
traveller arrived fafc at the plantation, where the
agent, Mr. Egan, received us very politely and hof-
pitably. This gentleman is a very intellig.cnt and
able planter, having already greatly improved the
ellate, particularly in the cultivation of indigo.
Great part of this ifiand confiRs of excellent hom.-
mocky land, which is the foil this plant delights in,
as well as cotton, corn, batatas, and aim oil: every
other efculent vegeta'ble. Mr. Egan politely rode
'.vith me over great part of the ifland. On

F.crinont

64 TRAVELS IN

Egmont eftate are feveral very large Indian tumuH^
which are called Ogeeche mounts, fo named fron|
that nation of Indians, who took Ihelter here, after
being driven from their native fettlements on the
main near Ogeeche river. Here they were con-
ftantly harrafled by the Carolinians and Creeks, and
at length flain by their conquerors, and their bones
entombed in thefe heaps of earth and (hells. I ob-
ferved here the ravages of the common grey cater-
pillar (Phalena periodica), fo defl:ru£live to forelt
and fruit trees, in Pennfylvania, and through the
northern (tates, by dripping them of their leaves, in
the fpring, while young and tender.

Mr. Egan having bufmefs of importance to tranf-
acl in St. Auguftine, prefied me to continue uith
him a few days, when he would accompany me to
that place, and, if I chofe, I fhould have a palfage,
as far as the Cow-ford, on St. John's, where he would
procure me a boat to profecute my voyage.

It may be a fubjeft worthy of fome inquiry, why
thofe fine iilands, on the coaft of Georgia, are fo
thinly inhabited ; though perhaps Amelia may in
fome degree plead an exemption, as it is a very fer-
tile illand, on the north border of Eafl: Florida, and
at the Capes of St. Mary, the finefl harbour in this
new colony. If 1 fhould give my opinion, the fol-
lowing fecm to be the mod probable reafons : the
greateil part of thefe are as yet the property of a
few wealthy planters, who having their refidence
on the continent, where lands on the large rivers,
as Savanna, Ogeeche, Alatamaha, St. llle, and others,
are of a nature and quality adapted to the growth
of rice, which the planters chiefly rely upon for
obtaining ready ca(h, and purchafing fiimily arti-
cles ; they fettle a few poor families on their in-

fuhr

NORTH AMERICA. 6^

fular eftates, who rear flocks of horned cattle,
horfeSj fwine, and poultry, and protect the game for
their proprietors. The inhabitants of thefe iflands
alfo lie open to the invafion and ravages of pirates,
and in cafe of a war, to inciirfions from their ene-
mies' armed veiTels ; in which cafe they mud either
remove with their families and effeOs to the main,
or be flripped of all their moveables, and their
houfes laid in ruins.

The foil of thefe iflands appears to be particularly
favourable to the culture of indigo and cotton, and
there are on them fome few large plantations for
the cultivation and manufadure of thole valuable ar-
ticles. The cotton is planted only by the poorer
clafs of people, jufl; enough for their family con-
fumption : they plant two fpecies of it, the annual
and Weft Indian ; the former is low, and planted
every year ; the balls of this are very large, and the
phlox long, ftrong, and perfedly white ; the Weft
Indian is a tall perennial plant, the ftalk fomewhat
ihrubby, feveral of which rife up from the root for
feveral years fucccflively, the Hems of the former
year being killed by the winter frolls. The balls of
this latter fpecies are not quite fo large as thofe of
the herbaceous cotton ; but the phlox, or wool,
is long, extremely fine, filky, and white. A plan-
tation of this kind will laft feveral years, with mo-
derate labour and care, whereas the annual fort is
planted every year.

The coafts, founds, and inlets, environing thefe
iflands, abound with a variety of excellent fifh, par-
ticularly Rock, Bafs, Drum, Mullet, Sheeps-head,
Whiting, Grooper, Flounder, Sea Trout, (this
iaft feems to be a fpecies of Cod) Skate, Skipjack,
Stingray. The Shark, and great Black Stingray,

F are

66 TRAVELS IN

are infatiable cannibals, and very troublefome to the
fifhermen. The bays and lagoons are ftored with
oyflers, and varieties of other fliell-fifli, crabs,
Ihrimp, &c. The clams, in particular, are large,
their meat white, tender, and delicate.

There is a large fpace betwixt this chain of fea-
Goail-illands and the main land, perhaps generally
near three leagues in breadth ; but all this fpace is
not covered with water : I eflimate nearly two-thirds
of it to confift of low fait plains, Vv-hich produce
Barilla, Sedge, Rufhes, &c. and Vv'hich border on
the main land, and the weftern coafls of the iflands.
The eafl fides of thefe iflands are, for the mofl part,
clean, hard, fandy beaches, expofed to the wafh of
the ocean. Between thefe iflands are the mouths or
entrances of fome rivers, which run dcv>n from the
continent, winding about through thefe low fait
marflies, and deHvering their v. aters into the founds,
which are very extenfive capacious harbours, from
three to five and fix to eight miles over, and com-
nmnicate with each other by parallel fair rivers, or
paffes, that flow into the found ; they afiord an ex-
tenfive and fecure inland navigation for mod craft,
fiich as large fchooners, floops, pettiaugers, boats,
and canoes ; and this inland communication of wa-
ters extend along the fea coafl: with but few and
fhort interruptions, from the bay of Chefapeak, in
Virginia to the MilTiffippi, and how much farther I
know not, perhaps as far as Vera Cruz. Whether
this chain of fea-coaft-iflands is a ftcp, or advance,
which this part of our continent is now making on
the Atlantic ocean, we muft leave to future ages to
determine. But it feems evident, even to demon-
ftration, that thofe fait marfiies adjoining the coafl
of the main, and the reedy and grafiy iflands and

marfhes

NORTH AMERICA. ^"J

marfhes in the rivers, which are now overflowed at
every tide, were formerly high fwamps of firm land,
affording forefts of Cyprefs, Tupilo, Magnolia gran-
diilora. Oak, A(h, Sweet Bay, and other timber
trees, the fame as are now growing on the river
fwamps, whofe furface is two feet or more above the
fpring tides that flow at this day ; and it is plainly
to be feen by every planter along the coaft or Caro-
lina, Georgia, and Florida, to the MifSffippi, when
they bank in thefe gralfy tide marfhes for cultivation,
that they cannot fmk their drains above three or
four feet below the furface, before they come to
ftrata of Cyprefs (lumps and other trees, as ciofe to-
gether as they now grow in the fwamps.

F 2 CHAP.

68 TRAVELS IN

CHAP. in.

Being now ux readinefs to profecute our voyage
to St. John's, wc let fall in a handfome pleafure-
boat, nianricd with four flout negio Haves, to row
'.n cafe of necellity. After paffing Amelia Nar-
rows, we had a pleafant run acrofs fort George's
found, where, obferving the pelicans fifhing, Mr.
Egan fhot one of them, which he took into the
boat. I was greatly furprifed on obferving the
pouch or fack, which hangs under the bill : it is
capable of being expanded to a prodigious fize.
One of the people on board, faid, that he had feen
more than half a bufhel of bran crammed into one
of their pouches. The body is larger than that of
a tame goofe, the legs extremely fliort, the feet
webbed, the bill of a great length, bent inwards
like a fcythe, the wings extend near feven feet from
tip to tip, the tail is very fhort, the head, neck, and
breaft, nearly white, the body of a light bluifli gray,
except the quill feathers of the wings, W'hich are
black. They feem to be of the gull kind, both in
form and llrufture, as well as manner of fiftiing.
The evening following, we landed on the main.
It was a promontory of high land, covered with
orange-trees, and projedinp; into the found, forming
a convenient port. We pitched our Lent under the
flicker of a forell of Live Oaks, Palms, and Sweet
Bays ; and having in the courfe of the day, procured
plenty of lea fowl, fuch as curlews, willets, fnipes,
fand birds, and others ; we had them dreffed for
fupper, and feafoned with excellent oyfters, which
lav in heaps in the water, clofe to our landing-place.

The

NORTH AMERICA. 69

The fiirub Capficum growing here in abundance,
afforded us a very good pepper : we drank of a well
of frefh water jult at hand, amidll a grove of Myr-
tles (Myrica ccrifera.) Our repofe however was in-
complete, from the lllngs of mufquetoes, the roar-
ing of crocodiles, and the continual noife and reft-
leffnefs of the lea fowl, thoufands of them having
their rooihng-places very near us, particularly loonr,
of various fpecieSj herons, pelicans, Spanifh curlews
&c. all promifcuoufly lodging together, and in fuch
incredible numbers, that the trees were entirely co.
vered. They rooft in inacceilible ifleis in the fait
marfhes, furrounded by lagoons, and fliallow water.
Juft without the trees, betwixt them, the water and
marfhes, is a barricade of Palmetto royal (Yucca,
gloriofa) or Adam's needle, which grows fo thick
together, that a rat or bird can fcarccly pafs through
them ; and the fliff leaves of this fword plant, ftand-
ing nearly horizontally, are as impenetrable to man,
or any other animal, as if they were a regiment of
grenadiers with their bayonets pointed at you. Tlie
Palmetto royal is, however, a very fmgular and beau-
tiful produftion. It may be termed a tree, from
its durability and magnitude, as likcwife from the
ligneous quality of its ftem, or trunk, when old ;
yet from its form and texture, I fliould be inclined
to rank it amongft the herbaceous plants, for even
the glorious palm, although it rifes to the altitude
of a tree, and even tranfcends moft of them, yet
it bears the character of the herbaceous ones : and
this, Hke the Palm tree, rifes with a Itraight, eredb
ftem, about ten or twelve feet high, crowned with
a beautiful chaplet of fword or dagger like leaves,
of a perfed green colour, each terminated with a
ftiff, ftiarp fpur, and their edges finely crenated.
This thorny crown is crefted with a pyramid of fil-

ver

7® Travels in

v.er white flowers, each rerembling a tulip or lily.
Thefe flowers a!f mcceeded by a large fruit, nearly
of the form and fize of a flender cucumber, which
when ripe, is of a deep purple colour, the fkin
fmocih and fhining, its pulp foft, very juicy, and
of an agreeable aromatic flavour, but rather bitter
to tjie tafte ; it is, however, frequently eaten, but
if eaten to excefs, proves violently purgative. The
feeds are numerous, flat, and lunated.

The plant, or tree, when grown old, fometimes
divides into two or three ftems, which feem of
equal height and thicknefs, and indeed nearly of the
fame thicknefs with the main (lem j but generally,
when they arrive to this age and magnitude, their
owft weight brings them to the ground, where they
foon decay, the heart or pith firfl:, leaving a hol-
low fibrous reticulated trunk or fleeve, which like-
wife foon after decays, and in fine, all is again re-
duced to its original earth, and replaces the vegeta-
tive mould. But the deceafed are foon replaced by
others, as there are younger ones of all ages and
flature, ready to fucceed their predeceflbrs, and
llourifh for a time, with the fame regal pomp and
fplendor. Thefe plants are fo multitudinous, where-
ever they get a footing, that the earth is completely
occupied by them, and fcarcely any other vegetable
is to be feen, where they are ; yet they are fome-
times fcattered amongll other trees and vegetables.

In three days after leaving Amelia, we arrived at
the Cow-ford, a public ferry, over St. John's, about
thirty miles above the bar or capes, the river here
being above a mile wide.

' Mr. Egan, after procuring a neat little fail-boat
for me, at a large indigo plantation near the ferry,

and

NORTH AMERICA. J i

and for which I paid three guineas, departed for St.
Auguftine, which is on the fea-coafl:, about forty-
five miles over land.

It was now about the middle of April. Vegeta-
tion appearing every where in high progrefs, I was
anxious to be advancing foutherly ; and having at
this plantation (lored myfelf with ncceffaries for
my voyage, I failed in the morning, with a fair
wind. I was now again alone, for the young man,
my fellow traveller, though flouter and heartier
than myfelf, having repented of his promife to ac-
company me to the Indian trading houfeg, I fup-
pofe not relifliing the hardfliips and dangers, which
might perhaps befal us, chofe rather to (tay behind,
amongft the fettlements. His leaving me, however,
I did not greatly regret, as I could not confidcr it
a difappointment much to my difadvanta=i;e at the
moment. Our views were probably totally oppo-
fite ; he, a young mechanic on his adventures, Teemed
to be actuated by no other motives, than cither to
eftabllfh himfelf in fome well inhabited pari: of the
country, where, by following hi:; occupn.ion, h?.
might be enabled to procure, without much toil and
danger, the neceflaries and conveniencies of life ;
or by induilry and frugality, perhaps eflablifh his
fortune. Whift I, continually impelled by a refl-
lefs fpirit of curiofity, in purfuit of new produc-
tions of nature, my chief happinefs confiltcd in trac-
ing and admiring the infinite power, majeHy, and
perfedion of the great Almighty Creator, and in
the contemplation, that through divine aid and per-
miflion, I might be inrtrumental in difcovering, and
introducing into my native country, fome oiiginal
productions of nature, which might become ufeful

to

Ji, TRAVELS- IN

to fociety. Each of our purfuits was perhaps equally
laudable ; and upon this fuppofuion, I was quite
"willing to part with him upon amicable terms.

My little veffel being furniflied with a good fail,
and having filhing tackle, a neat light fufee, pow-
der and ball, I found myfelf well equipped for my
voyage, about one hundred miles to the trading-
h^oufe. '

I croiTed the »river to a high promontory of
wood-land, on the weft fliore, and being Itruck with
the magnificence of a venerable grove of Live Oak,
Palms, and Laurel (Magnolia grandiflora) I ftepped
on fliore to take a view of the place. Orange trees
were in full bloom, and filled the air with fra-
grance.

It was now paft noon, and this place being about
eight miles above the Cow-ford, and the river near
three miles in breadth, I wanted to reach a planta-
tion in fight, on the oppofite fhore, in order to get
fome repairs, m.y veflel having fuftained fome da-
mage from the violence of the wind, in crofling over.
I arrived late in the evening, and finding a conveni-
ent landing-place and - harbour, 1 concluded to re-
main here till morning, and then coaft it clofe along
fliore to the plantation.

It beginning to thunder, I was fufficiently warn-
ed to prepare againft a wet night ; and obferving
a very large Oak tree, which had been thrown
down by a hurricane, and oft'ered me a convenient
fhelter, as its enormous limbs bore up the trunk
a fufficlent height from the earth to admit me to
fit or lie down under it, I fpread my fail, ilanting
from the trunk of the tree to the ground, on the

windvi^ard

NORTH AMERICA. 73

windward {ida ; and having collefted a quantity of
wood, fufficient to keep up a fire during the night,
I ftruck one up in front, and fpreading fkins on
the ground, and upon thei'e placing a blanket, one
half I lay down upon, turning the other over me
for a covering;.

The florm came up, with a furious wind and
rvcmendous thunder and lightning, from the oppo-
: . N. W. coafi:, but luckily for mc, little rain
^nd T relied very well. But as the wind next
i ..' ■ i>lew very frefli, right in upon the ihore,

there was no pollibility of moving, with fafety,
ffo'.n my prefent fituation. I however arofe to
rt-connoitre the ground round about my habita-
tion, being rouled by the report of a muiket not
far off. I had not left fight of my encampment,
following a winding path through a grove of Live
Oak, Laurel (Magn. grandiflora) and Sapindus,
before an Indian (tepped out of a thicket, and
eroded the path juft: before me, having a large
turkey cock flung acrofs his flioulders : he faw
me, and flepping up and fmiling, fpoke to me in
Knglilh, bidding me good morning. I faiuted him
with "■' It's well, brother,'* led him to my camp,
and treated him with a dram. This friendly In-
dian informed me that he lived at the next planta-
tion, employed as a hunter. I afked him how far
it was to the houfe ; he anfwered about half a mile
by laud, and invited me to go there, teUing me
that his mailer was a very good, kind man, and
would be glad to fee me. I replied, that I would,
if my boat and effeds in the mean time could be
fafe. lie faid that he would immediately return
to the houfe, and acquaint his mailer with it, who
would fend trull y negroes to bring my velfel round

the

74 TRAVELS IN

the point, to the landing. I thanked him for his
civility, and not willing to be troublefome, I told
him I would leave my boat, and follow after him ;
fo taking my fufee on my flioulder, alter dragging
my bark as high up on ihore as I could, I followed
the Indian, and foon reached the houfe.

The gentleman received me in the mod polite
manner ; and, after hearing my fituation, he re-
quefted me to make my abode with him a few days,
to reft and refredi myfelf. 1 thanked him, and
told him I would flay a day. He immediately fent
{laves who brought my boat round ; and having
carpenters at work on a new building, he fat them
about repairing my veflel, which by night was com-
pletely refitted.

I fpent the day in the mofl agreeable manner,
in the fociety of this man of fmgular worth. He
led me over his extenfive improvements, and we
returned in company with feveral of his neighbours.
In the afternoon, the mofl fultry time of the day,
we retired to the fragrant (hades of an orange
grove. The houfe was fituated on an eminence,
about one hundred and fifty yards from the river.
On the right hand was the orangery, confiding of
many hundred trees, natives of the place, and left
(landing, when the ground about it was cleared.
Thefe trees were large, flourifhing, and in perfect
bloom, and loaded with their ripe golden fruit.
On the other fide was a fpacious garden, occupy-
ing a regular Hope of ground, down to the water ;
and a ple.afant lawn lay between. Here were
large plantations of the Indigo plant, which ap-
peared in a very thriving condition : it was then
about five or fix inches high, growing in Itrait
parallel rows, about eighteen inches apart. The

Corn

NORTH AMERICA. y^

Corn (Zea) and Potatoes (Con vol v. Batata) were
greatly advanced in grovi^th, and promifcd a plen-
tiful crop. The Indigo made in Eaft Florida is
efteemed almofl equal to the bed Spanifh, efpeci-
ally that fort, which they call Flora. Mr. Mar-
{hall prefented me with a fpecimen of his own ma-
nufafture, at this plantation : it was very little, if
any, inferior to the beil Prullian blue.

In the morning following, intimating my inten-
tions of proceeding on my voyage, Mr. Marfliall
again importuned me to ftay ; but I obtained his
confent to depart, on my promifmg to vifit him
at mv return to Georgia. After breakfaft I there-
fore took my leave, attended to the fhore by
feveral flaves, leaded with ammunition and pro-
vifions, which my friend had provided for me.
On my cxprefTmg fome difficulty in receiving fo
large a fliare of his bounty, he civilly replied,
that it was too little to mention, and that, if I had
continued with him a day or two longer, he fliould
luve had 4:ime to have ferved me in a much better
manner.

Taking my leave of Mr. Marfliall, 1 again em-
barked alone on board my little vefTel, and bleffed
with a favourable ftcady gale, I fet fail. The
div was extremely pleafant ; the late thunder Horm
had purified the air, by difuniting and dillipating
the noxious vapours. The falling of heavy fliow-
eis, with thunder and brilk winds, from the cool
regions of the N, W. contributes greatly towards
rei'toring the falubritv of the air, and purity of
the waters, by precipitating the putrefcent fcum,
that riles from the bottom, and floats upon the
furface, near the fhores of the rivers, in tfiefe
iouthern climates, during the hot feafons. The

ill ores

'jd TRAVELS IN

Ihores of this great river St. Juan are very level
and fhoal, extending, in fome places, a mile or two
into the river, betwixt the high land and the clear
waters of the river, which is fo level, as to be co-
vered not above a foot or two deep with water, and
at a little diifance appears as a green meadow, hav-
ing water-grafs and other amphibious vegetables
growing in the oozy bottom, and floating upon the
water.

Having a lively leading breeze, I kept as near
the Eaft fhore as poflible, often furprifed by the
plunging of alligators, and greatly delighted with
the pleafing profpetl of cultivation, and the increafe
of human induftry, which frequently itruck my
view from the elevated, diltant fhores.

At night I ran in fhore, at a convenient harbour,
where l was received and welcomed by the gentle-
man, who was agent for the plantation, and at vi'hofe
pleafant habitation, near the harbour, I took up my
quarters for the night.

This very civil man happened to be a perfon
with whom I had formerly been acquainted in St.
Aiiguftine ; and as he lived about twenty miles dif-
tant from it, I had good reafon to expect that he
would be a proper perfon to obtain intelligence
from, concerning the dillurbancesv/hich were thought
ftill to fubfift, between the Lower Creeks and the
white inhabitants of Eafl Florida. Upon inquiry,
and converfation with him, I found my conjedures
on that head to have been well founded. My friend
informed me, that there had, but a few days fince.;
been a council held at St. Auguftine, between the
governor of Eaft Florida and the chiefs of the
Lovyer Creeks. They had been delegated by their

towns.

I

NORTH AMERICA. 77

towns, to make inquiry concerning the late alarm
and depredations committed by the Indians upon
the traders ; which the nation being apprised of, re-
commended thefe deputies to be choiea and fent,
as foon as polTible, in order to make reafonable con-
ceflions, before the flame, already kindled, Ihould
fpread into a general war. The parties according-
ly met in St. Augufline, and the aifair was ami-
cably adjufted, to the fatisfaction of both parties.
The chiefs of the delinquent bands, whofe young
warriors had committed the mifchief, promifed to
indemnify the traders for the lofs of their goods,
and requefced that they might return to their ftore-
houfes, with goods as ufual, and that they (hould be
fafe in their perfons and property. The traders at
this time were aQually preparing to return. It ap-
peared, upon a flrid inveftigation of fads, that the
affair had taken its rife from the licentious conduct
of a few vagrant young hunters of the Siminole na-
tion, who, imagining themfelves to have been ill
treated in their dealings with the traders (which
by the bye was likely enough to be true) took this
violent method of doin^ themfelves juflice. The
culprits however endeavoured to exculpate them-
felves, by afferting, that thev had no defign or in-
tention of robbin'T the traders of their cfteds, but
meant it only as a threat ; and that the traders, from
a confcioufnefs of their difhonefty, had been terri-
fied and fled, leaving their florer, which they took
polieflion of, to prevent their being totally loft.
This troublefome affair being adjuded, was very
agreeable news -to me, as I could now, without ap-
prehenflons, afcend this grand liver, and vilit its
delightful Ihores, where and when I pleafed.

Bidding adieu to ray obliging friend, I fpread my
fail to the favourable breeze, and by noon came to

a-breaff

ya TRAVELS IN

a-breafl of fort Picolata ; where, being deiiroas of
gaining yet farther intelligence, I landed ; but, to
my difappointment, found the fort difmantled and
deferted. This fortrefs is very ancient, and was built
by the Spaniards. It is a fquare tower, thirty feet
high, invefted with a high wall, without balHons,
about bread high, pierced with loop holes and fur-
rounded with a deep ditch. The upper flory is
open on each fide, with battlements, fupporting a
cupola or roof: thefe battlements were formerly
mounted with eight four pounders, two on each
fide.

The works are conflru£led with hewn flone, ce-
mented with lime. The ftone was cut out of quar-
ries on St. Anaftatius Ifland, oppofite St. Auguf-
tine : it is of a pale reddifh brick colour, and a tef-
taceous compofition, confifting of fmall fragments of
fea-fhells and fine fand. It is well adapted to the
condrufting of fortifications. It lies in horizontal
maffes in the quarry, and conftitutes the foundation
of that ifland. The caftle at St. Augufline, and
mofh of the buildings of the town, are of this flone.

Leaving Picolata, I continued to afcend the ri-
ver. I obferved this day, during my progrefs up
the river, incredible numbers of fmall flying infeds,
of the genus termed by naturalifls Ephemera, con-
tinually emerging from the fhallow water near fliore,
fome of them immediately taking their flight to
the land, whilft myriads crept up the grafs and
herbage, where remaining for a fhort time, as they"
acquired fuificient flrength, they took their flight
alfo, following their kindred to the main land.
This refurreftion from the deep, if I may fo ex-
prefs it, commences early in the morning, and ceafes
after the fun is up. At evening they are feen in

clouds

NORTH AMERICA. 79

clouds of innumerable millions, fwarming and wan-
toning in the (till air, gradually drawing near the
river. They defcend upon its furface, and there
quickly end their day, after committing their eggs
to the deep ; which being for a little while toiled
about, enveloped in a vifcid fcum, are hatched, and
the little Larva defcend into their fecure and dark
habitation, in the oozy bed beneath, where they
remain, gradually increafmg in fize, until the re-
turning fpring : they then change to a Nymph, when
the genial heat brings them, as it were, into exig-
ence, and they again arife into the world. This
lly feems to be delicious food for birds, frogs, and
fifli. In the morning, when they arife, arid in the
evening, when they return, the tumult is great in-
deed, and the furface of the water along fhore
broken into bubbles, or fpirted into the air, by the
contending aquatic tribes ; and fuch is the avidity
of the fifli and frogs, that they fpring into the air
after this delicious prey.

Early in the evening, after a pleafant day's voy-
age, I made a convenient and fafe harbour, in a little
lagoon, under an elevated bank, on the Weft fhore
of the river ; where I fhall entreat the reader's pa-
tience, whilft we behold the clofmg fcene of the
fliort-lived Ephemera, and communicate to each
other the reflexions which fo fingular an exhibition
might rationally fuggeft to an inquifitive mind.
Our place of obfervation is happily fituated under
the protecting (hade of majeftic Live Oaks, glo-
rious Magnolias, and the fragrant Orange, open to
the view of the great river and ftiil waters of the
lagoon juft before us.

At the cool eve*s approach, the fweet enchanting

melody

So TRAVELS IN

melody of the feathered fongfters gradually ceafes,
and they betake themfelves to their leafy coverts
for fecurity and repofe.

Solemnly and (lowly move onward, to the ri-
ver's ihore, the luftling clouds of the Ephemera.
How awful the proceflion 1 innumerable millions of
winged beings, voluntarily verging on to deflruc-
tion, to the brink of the grave, where they behold
bands of their enemies with wide open jaws, ready
to receive them. But as if infenfible of their dan-
ger, gay and tranquil each meets his beloved mate
in the flill air, inimitably bedecked in their new
nuptial robes. What eye can trace them, in their
varied wanton amorous chaces, bounding and flut-
tering on the odoriferous air ! With what peace,
love, and joy, do they end the lad moments of their
exiitence ?

I think we may aflert, without any fear of ex-
aggeration, that there are annually of thefe beau-
tiful winged beings, which rife into exiftence, and
for a few moments take a tranfient view of the glory
of the Creator's works, a number greater than the
whole race of mankind that have ever exifted fmce
the creation ; and that, only from the fhores of this
river. How many then muft have been produced
fmce the creation, when we confider the number of
large rivers in America, in comparifon with which,
this river is but a brook or rivulet.

The importance of the exiftence of thefe beau-
tiful and delicately formed little creatures, whofe
frame and organization are equally wonderful, more
delicate, and perhaps as complicated as thofe ot
the moil perfect human being, is well worth a
few moments contemplation j I mean particularly

when

NORTH AMERICA. St

when they appear in the fly flate. And If we con-
fider the very (hort period of tliat Ilage of exiftence,
which we may rcafonably fuppofe to be the only
fpace of their life that admits of pkafure and enjoy-
ment, what a lefTon dotli it not afford us of the vanity
of our own purfuits !

Their whole exiftence in this world Is but one
complete year : and at leaft three hundred and fixty
days of thiit tune they are in the form of an ugly
grub, buried in mud, eighteen inches under water,
and in this condition fcarcely locomotive, as each
Larva or grub has but its own narrow folitary cell,
from which it never travels or moves, but in a per-
pendicular progrellion of a few inches, up and down,
from the bottom to the furfacc of the mud, in order
to intercept the pafTmg atoms for its food, and get a
momentary refpiration of fre(h air ; and even here it
muft be perpetually on its guard, in order to efcape
the troops of fiili and ihrimps watching to catch it,
and from whom it has no efcape, but by inliantly
retreating back into its cell. One would be apt al-
mofl to imagine them created merely for the food of
lifir and other animals.

Having refted very well during the night, I was
awakened in the morning early, by the checrintr
converfe of the wild turkey-cocks (Meieagris occi-
dentalis) fainting each other, from the fun-bright-
ened tops of the lofty Cupreftus diflicha and Mag-
nolia grandiflora. They begin at early dawn, and
continue till fun rife, from March to the laft of
April. The high forefts ring with the noife, like
the crowing of the domeftic cock, of thefe focial
centlnels ; the w^atch-word being caught and repeat-
ed, from one to anoiher, for hundreds of miles

G around j

^2 TRAVELS IN

around ; infoniuch' that the whole country is for ari'
hour or more in ?.n univerfal fliout. A Httle after
fun-rife, their ciovving gradually ceafes, they quit
their high lodging places, and alight on the earth,
where, expanding their filver bordered train, they
ftrut and dance round about the coy female, while
the deep fbrefts feem to- tremble with their fhril!
noife.

Tliis morning the winds on the greit rivei* were
high and againll me ; I was therefore obliged to
keep in port a great part of the day, which I em-'
ployed in little excurfions round about my encamp-
ment. The Live Oaks are of an alfonilhing magni-
tude, and one tree contains a prodigious quantity
of timber ; yet, comparatively, they are not tail, even
in thefe forefls, where growing on flrong land, in
company with others of great altitude (fuch as
Fagus fylvatica, Liquidambar, Magnoiia grandi-^
flora, and the high Falm tree) they ftrive while young
lo be upon an equality with their neighbours, and
to enjoy the influence of the fun-beams, and of the
pure animating air. But the others at lad prevail,
and their pioud heads are feen at a great dillance^
towering far above the reit of the foreft, which con-
fi (Is chiefly of this fpecies of oak, Fraxinus, Ulmus,
Acer, rubi;um, Laurus Borbonia, Quercus dentata.
Ilex aquifolium, Olea Americana, Morus, Gleditfia
triacanthus, and, I believe, a fpecies of Sapindus.
But the latter fpreads abroad his brawny arms, to
a great diflance. The trunk of the Live Oak is
generally from twelve to eighteen feet in girt,
and rifes ten or twelve feet ere£t from the earth,
fome I have feen eighteen or twenty ; then di-
vides itfelf into three, four, or five great Hmbs,

which

NORTH AMERICA. 83

which continue to grow in nearly an horizontal di-
redion, each limb Ibrming a gentle curve, or arch,
from its bafe to its extremity. I have Hepped above
fifty paces, on a flrait line, from the trunk of one
of thefe trees, to the extremity of the limbs. It is
ever'j:reen, and the wood almoll incorruDtible,
even in the open air. It bears a prodigious quantity
of fruit ; the acorn is fmall, but fweet and agreeable
to the taftc when loafted, and is food for almofl ail
animals. The Indians obtain from it a fweet oil,
which they ufe in the cooking of hommony, vice,
&:c. ; and they alfo roalt it in hot embers, eating it
as we do chefnuts.

The wind being fair in the evening, I fet fail again,
and croffing the river, made a good harbour on the
Eafl fliore, where I pitched my tent for the night.
The bank of the river was about twelve or fifteen
feet perpendicular from its furface, but the afcent
gentle. Although I arrived here early in the even-
ing, 1 found fufticient attractions to choofe it for my
lodging-place, and an ample field for botanical em-
ployment. It was a high, airy fituation, and com-
manded an exienfive and varied profpeilii of the river
and its (hores, up and down.

Behold yon promontory, projecting far into the
great river, beyond the ftill lagoon, half a mile dif-
tant from me : what a magnificent grove arifes on
its banks ! how glorious the Palm ! how majeflicaliy
itands the Laurel, its head forming a perfed cone !
its dark green foliage feems filvered over with milk-
M'hite flowers. They are fo large, as to be dif-
tinfl:ly vifible at the diftance of a mile or more. The
l.aurtl Magnolias, which grow on this river, are
the mod beautiful and tall that I have any where
feen, unlefs we except thofe, which Hand on the

G 2 banks

$4 TRAVELS IN

banks of the Miffiffippi ; yet even thefe mud yield
to thofe of St Juan, in neatnefs of form, beauty of
foliage, and, 1 think, in largenefs and fragrance
of flower. Their ,ufual height is about one hun-
dred feet, and fome greatly exceed that. The
trunk is perfectly ered, rifing in tlie form of a beau-
tiful column, and fupporting a head like an obtufe
cone. The flowers are on the extremities of the
fubdivifions of the branches, in the centre of a co-
ronet of dark green, Ihining, ovate pointed entire
leaves : they are large, perfectly white, and ex-
panded like a lull blown Rofe. They are polypeta-
lous, confiiling of fifteen, twenty, or twenty-five
petals : thefe are of a thick coriaceous texture, and
deeply concave, their edges being fomewhat reflex,
when mature. In the center (lands the young cone ;
which is large, of a flefii colour, and elegantly ftud-
ded with a gold coloured fligma, that by the end
of fummer Is greatly enlarged, and in the autumn
ripens to a large crimfon cone or ftrobile, difclofing
multitudes of large coral red berries, which for a
time hang down from them, fufpcnded by a fine,
white, filky thread, four, fix, or even nine inches
in length. The flowers of this tree are the largeft
and moft complete of any yet known : when fully-
expanded, they are of fix, eight, and nine inches
-diameter. The pericarpium and berries poflefs an
agreeable fpicy fcent, and an aromatic bitter
taife. The wood when feafoned is of a fl:raw co-
lour, compact, and harder and firmer than that of
the poplar.

It is really afl:onifliing to behold the Grape- Vines
in this place. From their bulk and ftrength, one
would imagine, they were combined to pull down
thefe mighty trees to the earth ; when, in faft,

among fl

NORTH AMERICA. 85

amongfl: other good purpofes, they ferve to uphold
them. They are jfrequently nine, ten, and twelve
inches in diameter, and twine round the trunks of
the trees, climb to their very tops, and then fpreaj
along their limbs, from tree to tree, thioughouL
the foreft : the fruit is but fmall and ill tafted.
The Grape vines, with the Rhamnus volubilis, Big-
nonia radicans, Bignonia crucigera, and another
rambling flirubhy vine, which feems allied to the
Rhamnus, perhaps Zizyphus fcandens, feem to tie
the trees together with garlands and feftoons, and
form enchanting fliades. The long mofs, fo called,
(Tillandfea ufneaoides), is a fmgular and furpiifing
vegetable produdion : it grows from the limbs and
twigs of all trees in thcfe fouthern regions, from
N. lat. 35 down as far as 28, and I believe every
where within the tropics. Wherever it fixes itfelf,
on a limb, or branch, it fpreads into fliort and in-
tricate divarications ; thefe in time collect dull,
wafted by the wind, which, probably by the moif-
ture it abforbs, foftens the hark and fappy part of
the tree, about the roots of the plant, and ren-
ders it more fit for it to eftabUlh itfeU ; and from
-his fmall beginning, it increafe?;, by fending down-
wards and obliquely, on all fides, long pendant
branches, which divide and fubdivide themfelves
iid infinitum. It is common to find the fpaces be-
twixt the limbs of large trees, almoll occupied by
this plant ; it alfb hangs waving in the wind, like
flreamers, from the lower limbs, to the length of
fifteen or twenty feet, and of bulk and weight,
more than fevcral men together could carry ; and
in fome places, cart loads of it are lying on the
ground, torn off by the violence of the wind.
Any part of the living plant, torn off and caught
jn the limbs of a tree, v:ill prefently take root.

8^ TRAVELS IN

grow, and increafe, in the fame degree of perfec-
tion, as if it had fprung up from the feed. When
frefli, cattle and deer will cat it in the winter fea-
fon. It feems particularly adapted to the purpofe
cf (luffing mattraffes, chairs, faddles, collars, ^c. ;
and for thefe furpofes. nothing yet known equals
it. The Spaniards in South America and the Weft-
Indies, work it into cables, that are faid to be very
flrong and durable; but, in order to render it ufeful,
it ought to be thrown into flrailow ponds of water,
and expofed to the fun, where it foon rots, and the
outfide furry fubftance is difiolved. It is then taken
out of the water, and fpread to dry ; when, after a
little beating and fhaking, it is fufficiently clean,
nothing remaining but the interior, hard, black,
elaflic filament, entangled together, and greatly re-
fembling horfe-hair.

The Zanthoxylum clava Herculis alfo grows here.
It is a beautiful fpreading tree, and much like a well
grown apple tree. Its aromatic berry is delicious
food for the little turtle dove ; and epicures fay, that
it gives their flefh a fine flavour.

Having finifhed my obfervations, I betook myfelf
to reft ; and v/hen the plunging and roaring of the
crocodiles, and the croaking of the frogs, had ceafed,
I flept very well during the remainder of the night :
as a breeze from the river had fcattered the clouds
of mufquitoes that at firft infefted me.

It being a fine cool morning, and fair wind, I fet
fail early, and faw, this day, vaft quantities of the
Piftia ftratiotes, a very fingular aquatic plant. It
.affociates in large communities, or floating illands,
fome of them a quarter of a mile in extent, which
are impelled to and fro, as the wind and current

•NORiTH AMERICA: 6-7

n\ay dire«5l. They are firft produced on, or dofe
to the fhore, in eddy water, where they gradually
fpread thenifelves Into the river, forming mofl: de-
lightful green plains, feveral miles in length, and in
fome places a c[uarter of a mile in breadth. Thefe
plants are nouriflied and kept in their proper hori-
zontal fituation, by means of long fibrous roots,
vhich defcend from the nether centre, downwards,
towards the muddy bottom. J/ach plant, when full
grown, bears a general refemblaacc to a well grown
plant of garden lettuce, though the leaves are more
nervous, of a firmer contexture, and of a full green
colour, inclining to yellow. It vegctatec on the fur-
face of the ftill ftagnant water ; and in its natural
fituation, is propagated from feed only. In great
ilorms of wind and rain, when the river is fuddenly
raifed, large maffes of thefe floating plains are bro-
ken loofe, and driven from the fliores, into the >vidc
water, where they have the appearance of iflets, and
float about, until broken to pieces by the winds and
Vv'aves ; or driven again to fliorc, on fome diftant
coaft of the river, where they again find fooling,
and there, forming new colonics, Ipread and extend
themfelves again, until again broken up and dif-
perfed as before. Thefe floating iflands prefent a
very entertaining profpect ; for although we behold
an afl'emblage of the primary produdlions of nature
only, yet the imagination feems to remain in fuf-
penfe and doubt ; as in order to enliven the dclufion,
and form a moft pidurefque appearance, we fee not
only fiovvery plants, clumps of flirubs, old weather-
beaten trees, hoary and barbed, with the long mofs
waving from their inags, but we alfo fee them com-
pletely inhabited, arid alive, with crocodiles, ferpents,
l^rogs, otrer?- crow.^, lieron:., curlcvi-', jackdaw,^, S:c.

Theri^

03 TR.^VELS IN

There feems, in fhort, nothing wanted but the ap-
pearance of wigwam and a canoe to complete the
fcene.

Keeping along the Weft or Indian fliore, I faw
bafking, on the fcdgy banks, numbers of alligators*,
fome of them of an enormous fize.

The high forefts on this coaft now wore a grand
snd fubhme appearance ; the earth rifmg gradually
from the river weftward, by eafy fwelling ridges,
behind one another, lifting the diftant groves up in-
to the fides. The trees are of the lofty kind, as the
grand laurel magnolia, palma elata, liquidambar
flyraciflua, fagus lylvatica, querci, juglans hiccory,
fraxinus and others.

On my doubling a long point of land, the river
appe'ia'red furprifmgly widened, forming a large bay,
of an oval form, and feveral miles in extent. On the
Weft fide it was bordered round v/ith low marlhes,
and inverted with a fwamp of Cyprefs, the trees fo
lofty, as to preclude the fight of the high-land fo-
refts beyond them ; and thefe trees, having flat
tops, and all of equal height, feemed to be a green
plain, lifted up and fupported upon columns in the
air, round the Weft fide of the bay.

The cupreiTus difticha ftands in the firft order of
North American trees. Its majeftic ftature is fur-
prifmg ; and on approaching it we are ftruck
with a kind of awe, at beholding the ftatelinefs of
the trunk, lifting its cumbrous top towards the fki^s,
and cafting a wide lliade upon the ground, as a
dark intervening cloud, which, for a time, excludes

* I have made ufe of the terms alligator and crocodile indifcrlnilnatcly
for this animal, alligator being the country name.

tlie

I

NORTH AMERICA. 89

the rays of the fun. The delicacy of its colour and
texture of its leaves, exceed every thing in vege-
tation. It generally grows in the water, or in low
flat lands, near the banks of great rivers and lakes,
that are covered, great part of the year, with two
or three feet depth of water ; and that part of the
trunk which is fubjedl to be under water, and four
or five feet higher up, is greatly enlarged by pro-
digious buttrefl'es, or pilallers, which, in full grown
trees, proje«fl out on every fide, to fuch a dillance,
that feveial men might eafily hide themfelves in
the hollows between. Each pilalter terminates un-
der ground, in a very large, ftrong, ferpentine
root, which ftrikes off, and branches every way,
jult under the furface of the earth : and from thefe
roots grow woody cones, called cyprefs knees, four,
five, and fix feet high, and from fix to eighteen
inches and two feet in diameter at their bales. The
large ones are hollow, and ferve very well for bee-
hives ; a fmall fpace of the tree itfelf is hollow,
nearly as high as the buttreffcs already mentioned.
From this place, the tree, as it were, takes another
beginning, forming a grand flraight column eighty
or ninety feet high, when it divides every wav
around into an extenfive flat horizontal top, like an
umbrella, where eagles have their fecurc nefls, and
cranes and ilorks their temporary reding places ;
ar.d what adds to the magnificence of their appear-
ance is the fireamers of loni{ mofs that han? from
the lotty limbs and float in the winds. This is
their majeftic appearance when fl:anding alone, in
large rice plantations, or thinly planted on the
banks of great rivers.

Parroquets are commonly feen hovering and flut-
tering on their tops ; they delight to fliell the

ball?,

go TRAVELS IN

balls, its feed being their favourite food. The
trunks of thefe trees, when hallowed out, make
large and durable pettiaugers and canoes, and af-
ford excellent fhin^les, boards, and other timber,
adapted to every purpofe in frame buildings. When
the planters fell thefe mighty trees, they raife a
ftage round them, as high as to reach above the
buttrefles ; on this flage, eight or ten negroes
afcend with their axes, and fall to work round its
trunk. I havefeen trunks of thefe trees that would
meafure eight, ten, and twelve feet in diameter,
for forty and fifty feet ftraight fliaft.

As I continued coafling the Indian fhore of this
bay, on doubling a promontory, I fuddenly faw be-
fore me an Indian fettlement, or village. It was a
fine fituation, the bank rifmg gradually from the
water. There were eight or ten habitations, in a
row, or ftreet, fronting the water, and about fifty
yards diftance from it. Some of the youth were
naked, up to their hips in the water, fifiiing with
rods and lines ; whilft others, younger, were divert-
ing themfelves in /hooting frogs with bows and ar-
rows. On my near approach, the little children
took to their heels, and ran to fome women who
were hoeing corn ; but the ftouter youth flood
their ground, and, fmiling, called to me. As I
paiTed along, I obferved iome elderly people re-
clined on fkins fpread on the ground, under the
cool fhade of fpreading Oaks and Palms, that were
ranged in front of their houfes : they arof'e, and
eyed me a& J paifed, but perceiving that I kept on
without flopping, they refumed their former po-
fition. They were civil, and appeared happy iu
their fituation.

There was a large Orange grove at the upper

en4

>'ORTH AMERICA. 9I

end of their village ; the trees were large, care-
fully pruned, and the ground under them clean,
open, and airy. There feemed to be feveral hun-
dred acres of cleared land about the village ; a
coniulcrable portion of wjiich was planted, chiefly
with corn (Zea), Batatas, Beans, Pompions, Squaflies
(Cucurbita verrucofa), Melons (Cucurbita citrullus).
Tobacco (Nicotlana), 5cc. abundantly fufTicient for
the inhabitants of the village.

After leaving this village, and coafling a con-
f;derable cove of the lake, I perceived the river be-
fore me much contraiited within its late bounds,
but ftill retaining the appearance of a wide and
deep river, both coafts bordered for feveral milesi
with rich deep fwamps, well timbered with Cyprefs,
Afh, Elm, Oak, Hiccory, Scarlet Maple, Nyfia
aquatica, Nyila tupilo, Gordonia lafiantluis, Cory-
pha palma, Corypha pumila, Laurus Borbonia, tNcc.
7'he river gradually narrowing, I came in fight of
Charlotia, where it is not above half a mile wide,
but deep ; and as there was a confiderable current
againft me, 1 came here to an anchor. This town
was founded by Den. Rolle, efq. and is fituated
on a high bluit, on the eail coaff, fifteen or twentv
feet perpendicular from the river, and is in length
half a mile, or more, upon its banks. The upper
llratum of the earth confifts entirely of feveral fpe-
cies of frefh water Cochleae, as Coch. helix, Coch.
Inbyrinthus, and Coch. voluta ; thefecond, of ma-^
rinefhells, as Concha mytulus, Cone, oftrea. Cone,
pceton, Haliotis auris marina, Hal. patella, ^c.
mixed with fca land ; and the third, or lower ftra-
tum, which was a little above the common level of
the river, of horizontal maffes of a pretty hard
lock, compcfcid aimoil entirely of the above fhell,
generally whole, and lying in every direction, pe-
trified

g2 TRAVELS IN

trifiecl or cemented together, with fine white fand ;
and thefe rocks were bedded in a (Iratuni of clay.
1 faw many fragments of the earthen ware of the
ancient inhabitants, and bones of animals, amongfl
the fhells, and mixed with the earth, to -a great
depth. This high fhelly bank continues, by gentle
parallel ridges, near a quarter of a mile back from
the river, gradually diminiflnng to the level of the
fandy plains, which widen before and on each fide
eallward, to a feemingly unlimited diftance, and
appear green and delightful, being covered wich
grafs and the Corypha repens, and thinly planted
with trees of the long leaved, or Broom Pine, and
decorated with clumps, or coppices, of floriferous,
evergreen, and aromatic flirubs, and enamelled
with patches of the beautiful little Kalmea ciliata.
Thefe flielly ridges have a vegetable furface of loofe
black mould, very fertile, which naturally produces
Orange groves, Live Oak, Laurus Borbonia, Pal-
ma elata, Carica papaya, Sapindus, Liquidambar,
Fraxinus, exelfior, Morus rubra, Ulmus, Tilia,
Sambucus, Pcelea, Tallow-nut or Wild Lime, and
many others.

Mr, Rolle obtained from the crown a grant of
forty thoufand acres of land, in any part ol: Eafl
Floridai, where the land was unlocated. It feems,
his views were to tpke up his grant near St. Mark's,
in the bay of Apalatchi ; and he fat fail from England,
with about one hundred families, for that place j
but by contrary winds, and ftrefs of weather, he.
miiTed his aim ; and being obliged to put into St.
Juan's, he, with fome of the principal of his ad-
herents, afcended the river in a boat, and being
flruck with its ma'clly, the grand fituationj ot its
banks, and fertility of its lands, and at the fame
time, confjdering the extenfive navigation of the

river,

NORTH AMERICA,

93

river, and its near vicinity to St. Aup:un;ine, the
dapital and feat of government, he altered his views
en St. Mark's, and fuddenly determined on this
place, where he landed his hrfl: little colony. But
it feems, from an ill concerted plan in iis infant
eflablifhment, negligence, or extreme parfimony
in fending proper recruits and other neceifarit^js,
together with a bad choice of citizens, the fettle-
ment by degrees grew weaker, and at length to-
tally fell to the ground. Thofe of them who
efcaped the conilant contagious fevers, fied the
dreaded place, betaking themfelves for fubfilfence
to the more fruitful and populous regions of Georgia
and Carolina.

The rcmaininjc old habitations are mouldering
to earth, except the manfion houfe, which is a
large frame building, of cyprefs wood, yet in
tolerable repair, and inhabited by an overfeer and
his family. There is alfo a blackfmith with his
fhop and family, at a fmall diftance from it. The
mofl: valuable diflricl: belonging to I\lr. Rolle's
grant, lies on Dun's lake, and on a little river,
which runs from it into St. Juan. This diftricl
confifts of a vafl body of rich fwamp land, fit for
the growth of rice, and lome very excellent high
land furrounding it. Large fvvamps of excellent
rice land are alfo fituated on the well fliore of the
river, oppofite to Charlotia.

The aborigines of America had a very great
town in this place, as appears from the great tu-
muli, and conical mounts of earth and iTiclls, and
other traces of a fetilement which yet remain.
There grew in the old fields on thefe heights, great
quantities of callicarpa, and of the beautiful IhruU
annona : the flowery of the latter are large, white,
and fweet fcented.

Having

94 TRAV£LS I. NT

Having obtained from the people here dire(fkions
for difcovering the little remote ifland where the
traders and their goods were lecreted, which was
about feven miles higher up, I fat fail again, with
a fair wind, and in about one hour and an half
arrived at the defired place, having fortunately
taken the right channel of the river, amongfl a
multitude of others, occafioned by a number of
low fwampy iilands. But I fhould have run by the
landing, if the centinels had not by chance feen
me drawing near them ; who perceiving that I
was a white man, ventured to hail me ; upon which
I immediately ftruck fail, and came to. Upon my
landing they conducted me to their encampment,
forty or fifty yards from the river, in an almod
impenetrable thicket. Upon my inquiry, they con-
firmed the accounts of the amicable treaty at St.
Auguftine, and in confequence thereof, they had
already removed great part of the goods to the
trading-houfe, which was a few miles higher up,
on the Indian fliore. They fliowed me my cheil,
which had been carefully preferved, and upon in-
fpe6tion I found every thing in good order. Having
learned from them, that all the effedts would, in a
few days time, be removed to the Ilore-houfe, I
bid adieu to them, and in a little time arrived at
the trading-houfe, where I was received with great
politenefs, and treated, during a refidence of feve-
rai months, with the utmoft civility and fiiendfhip,
by Mr. C. M'Latche, MelTrs. Spalding and Keifali's
agent.

The river almoft from Charlotia, and for near
twelve miles higher up, is divided into many chaa-
i^Is by a great number of iflands.

CHAP.

KORTH AMERICA. 95

CHAP. IV.

Having refted myfelf a few day?, and by ranging
about the neighbouring plains and groves, lurround-
ing this pleafant place, pretty well recovered my
strength and fpirits, I began to think of planning my
future excurfions, at a diilance round about this
centre. 1 found, from frequent conferences with Mr.
M'Latche, that I might with fafety extend my
journevs every way, and with prudence, even into
the towns and fetilements of the Indians, as they
"were perfectly reconciled to us, and fincerely wilhed
for the renewal of our trade.

There were three trading-houfes to be eftablifhed
this fummer, each of which had its fupplies from
the ftore on St. Juan, where I now had my refi-
dence, and in which the produce or returns were
to centre annually, in order to be (hipped for Sa-
vanna orSunbury, and from thence to Europe.

One of thefe trading-houfes was to be fixed
about fixty miles higher up the river, from this place,
by the name of Spalding's upper (lore ; a fecond at
Alachua, about fihy miles welt from the river St.
Juan ; and a third at Talahafochte, a confiderable
town of the Siminoles, on the river Little St. Juan,
near the bay of Apalachi, about one hundred and
twenty miles diftance. Each of thefe places I de-
figned to vifit, before the return of the veflel to
Frederica in the autumn, that I might avail my-
felf of an opportunity fo favourable for tranfport-
ing my coIle£tions fo far on their way towards
Qharlelton.

The

gS 'TkAVZLS I>f

The company for Alachua were to fet off in
about a month ; that to Little St. Juan, in July,
which fuited me exceedingly well, as I might make
my tour to the upper {lore direcftly, that part of the
country being at this feafon enrobed in its richeft
and gayefl apparel.

About the middle of May, every thing being in
readinefs to proceed up the river, we fat fail. The
traders with their goods in a large boat went a-
head, and myl'elf in my little veffel followed them ;
and as their boat was large, and deeply laden, I
found that I could eafily keep up with them, and, if
I chofe, out-fail them ; but 1 preferred keeping them
company, as well for the fake of collecting what I
could from converfation, as on account of my
fafety in eroding the great lake, expcding to
return alone, and defcend the river at my own
leifure.

We had a pleafant day, the wind fair and mode-
rate, and ran by Mount Hope, fo named by my fa-
ther John Bartram, when he afcended this river,
about fifteen years ago. It is a very high fhelly bluff,
upon the little lake. It was at that time a fine
Orange grove, but now cleared and converted into a
large indigo plantation, the property of an Englifh
gentleman, under the care of an agent. In the
evening we arrived at Mount Royal, where we came
to, and flayed all night : we were treated with great

civility, by a gentleman whofc name was

Kean, and who had been an Indian trader.

From this place we enjoyed a mofl: enchanting
profpeft of the great Lake George, through a grand
avenue, if I may fo term this narrow reach of the
liver, which widens gradually for about twoMniles,

towards

NO^TH, AMERICA. 07

towards its entrance into the lake, fo as to elude
the exa^t rules of perfpeclive, and appears of an
equal width.

At about fifty yards diflance from the landing
place, ftands a magnificent Indian mount. About
fifteen years ago 1 vifited this place, at which time
there were no fettlements of white people, but all
appeared wild and favage ; yet in that uncultivated,
ftate it pofleffed an almofl inexpreflible air of gran-
deur, which was now entirely changed. At that
time there was a very confiderable extent of old
fields round about the mount ; there was alfo a
large orange grove, together with palms and live
oaks, extending from near the mount, along the
banks, downwards, all of which- has fmce been
cleared away to make room for planting ground.
But what greatly contributed towards" completing
the magnificence of the fcene, was a noble Indiaa
highway, which led from the great mount, on a
/Iraight line, three quarters of a mile, firft through a
point or wing of the orange grove, and continuing
thence through an awful forelt of live oaks, it was
terminated by palms and laurel magnolias, on the
verge of an oblong artificial lake, which was on
the edge ot an extenfive green level favanna. This
grand highway was about fifty yards wide, funk
a little below the common level, and the earth
thrown up on each fide, making a bank of about
two feet high. Neither nature nor art could any
where prefent a more Itriking contrail, as you ap-
proached this favanna. The glittering water pond
plavcd on the fight through the dark grove, like a
hrllliant diamond, on the bofom of the illumined
Javanna, bordered with various flov.ery Ihrubs and
plains J arid as we advanced into the plain, the

H fight

9^ TRAVELS IN

fight was agfeeably relieved by a dillant view of the
lorefts, which partly environed the green expanfe on
the left hand, whillt the imagination was flill flatter-
ed and entertained by the far diftant mifty points
of the furrounding forefls, which projeded into the
plain, alternately appearing and difappcaring, mak-
ing a grand fw^p round on the right, to the diflant
banks of the great lake. But that venetable grove
is now no more. All has been cleared away and
planted with indigo, corn, and cotton, but fmce de-
ferted : there was now fcarcely five acres of ground
under fence. It appeared like a defart to a great
extent, and terminated, on the land fide, by fright-
i'ul thickets, and open pine forefts.

It appears, however, that the late proprietor had
fome tafte, as he has preferved the mount and this
little adjoining grove inviolate. The profpect from
this ftation is fo happily lituated by nature as to
comprife at one view the whole of the fublimeand
pleafing.

At the reanimating appearance of the rifmg fun,
nature again revives ; and I obey the cheerful fum-
mons of the gentle monitors of the meads and
groves.

Ye vigilant and faithful fervants of the Mofl High!
ye who worfhip the Creator morning, noon, and
eve, in fimplicity of heart ! I hafte to join the uni-
verfal anthem. My heart and voice unite with
yours, in fincere homage to the great Creator, the
univerfal fovereign.

O may I be permitted to approach the throne of
mercy ! May thefc my humble and penitent fuppli*
Cations, amidfl the univerfal fliouts of homage froai
thy creatures, meet with thy acceptance !

And

NORTH AMERICA. 59

And although I am fenfible, that my fervice can-
not increafe or diminilh thy glory, yet it is pleafmg
to thy fervant to be permitted to found thy praife ;
for, O fovereign Lord ! we know that thou alone
art perfect, and worthy to be worfliipped. O uni-
verfal Father ! look down upon us, v.-e we befeech.
thee, with an eye of pity and compaffion, and grant
that uni verfal peace and love may prevail in the
earth, even that divine harmony which nils the hea-
vens, thy glorious habitation !

And, O fovereign Lord ! fince it has pleafed thee
to endue man with power and pre-eminence here
on earth, and eftablifh his dominion over all crea-
tures, may we look up to thee, that our under-
ftanding may be fo illuminated with wifdom, and
nur hearts warmed and animated with a due fenfe of
charity, that we may be enabled to do thy will, and
perforni our duty towards thofe fubmitted to our
fervice and protection, and be merciful to them,
even as we hope for mercy.

Thus may we be worthy of the dignity and fupe-
liority of the high and diftinguifhed Itation in which
thou haft placed us here on earth.

The morning being fair, and having a gentle fa-
vourable gale, we left our pleafant harbour in pur-
fuit of our defired port.

Now as we approach the capes, behold the little
ocean of Lake George, the diftant circular coalt
gradually rifing to view, from his mifty fringed
horizon. I cannot entirely fupprefs my apprehen-
fions of danger. My veltel at once diminiihed to
a nut-fliell, on the fwelling feas, and at the dif-
tance of a few miles, mufl appear to the furprifed
H ?. ebierver

f^O - TRAVELS IN

obferver as fome aquatic animal, at intervals emerg-
ing from its furface. This lake is a large and
beautiful piece of water ; it is a dilatation of the
river St. Juan, and is about fifteen miles wide, and
generally about fifteen or twenty feet deep, except-
ing at the entrance of the river, where lies a bar,
which carries eisjht or nine feet water. The lake
is beautified with two or three fertile iflands. The
firft lies in the bay, as we afcend into the lake, near
the weft coaft, about S. W. from Mount Roya)^
from whence it appears to form part of the weft
fhore of the bay. The fecond ifland feems to ride
on the lake before us as we enter, about a mile with-
in it. This ifland is about two miles in breadth,
and three quarters of a mile where broadeft, moftly
high land, well timbered and fertile. The third and
laft lies at the fouth end of the lake, and near the
entrance of the river ; it is nearly circular, and con-
tains but a few acres of land, the earth high and fer-
tile, and almoft an entire orange grove, with grand
magnolias and palms.

Soon after entering the lake, the wind blew Co
brifkly from the weft, with thunder-clouds gather-
ing upon the horizon, that we were obliged to feek
a fhelter from the approaching tempeft, on the large
beautiful ifland before mentioned ; where, having
gained the fouth promontory, we met with an ex-
cellent harbour, in which we continued the remain-
ing part of the day and the night. 'J'hrs circum-
ftance gave me an opportunity to explore thegreatefl
part ol it.

This ifland appears, from obvious veftiges, to
have been once the chofen refiden.ce of an Indian
prince, there being to this day evident remains of

a larg:e

NORTH AMERICA. 1 ©|

a large town of the Aborigines. It was fituat^d on
an eminence, near the banks of the lake, and com-
manded a comprehenfive and charming profpeift of
the waters, iflands, eaft and well lliores of the lake,
the capes, the bay, and Mount Royal ; and to the
fouth the view is in a manner infinite, where th'^
fkies and waters fecm to unite. On the fite of this
ancient town, ftands a very pompous Indian mount,
or conical pyramid of earth, from which runs in a
ftrait line a grand avenue or Indian highway,
through a magnificent grove of magnolias, live
oaks, palms, and orange trees, terminating at the
verge of a large green level favanna. This ifland
appears to have been well inhabited, as is very evi-
dent, from the quantities of fragments of Indian
earthenware, bones of animals and other remains,
particularly in the flielly heights and ridges all over
the ifland. There are no habitations at prefcnt on
the ifland, but a great number of deer, turkeys,
bears, wolves, wild cats, fquirrcls, racoons, and
opofl'ums. The bears are invited here to partake
of the fruit of the orange tree, which they are im-
moderately fond of; and both they and turkeys are
made extremely fat and delicious, from their feeding
on the fweet acoins of the live oak.

There grow on this ifland many curious flirubs,
particularly a beautiful fpecies of lantana (perhaps
lant. camerara, Lin. Syfl. A^eget. p. 473). It
grows in coppices in old fields, about five or fix:
feet high, the branches adorned with rough fer-
rated leaves, which fit oppofite, and the twigs ter-
minated with umbelliferous* tufts of orange coloured
bloflToms, which are fucceeded by a duller of fmall
blue berries : the flowers are of various colours, on
the fame plant, and even in the fame cluifer, as

102 TRAVELS IN

crimfon, fcarlst, orange and golden yellow : the
\vhoIe plant is of a moll agreeable fcent. The
orange-flowered fliruh Hibifciis is alfo confpicuoufly
beautiful (perhaps Hibifc. fplnifex of Linn. ) It grows
five or fix feet high, and fubramous. The branches
are divergent, and furnifhed with cordated leaves,
which are crenated. The flowers are of a mode-
rate fize, and of a deep fplendid yellow. The pe-
ricarpii are fpiny. I alfo faw a new and beautit^ul
palmatcd leaved convolvulus*. This vine rambles
over the flirubs, and flrolls about on the ground ;
its leaves are elegantly fituated, of a deep grafs
green, and fit on long petioles. The flowers are
very large, infundibuliform, of a pale incarnate co-
lour, having a deep crimfon eye.

There are fome rich fvvamps on the fliores of the
ifiand, and thefe are verged on the outfide with
large marflies, covered entirely with tall grafs,
ruflies, and herbaceous plants ; amongft thele are
fcveral fpecies of Ilibilcus, particularly the hibif-
cus cocineus. This moft (lately of all herbaceous
plants grows ten or twelve feet high, branching
regularly, fo as to form a fharp cone. Thefe
branches alfo divide again, and are embellifhed
vith large expanded crimfon flowers. 1 have feen
this plant of the fize and figure of a beautilul httle
tree, having at once feveral hundred of thefe fplen-
did flowers, which may be then feen at a great
diilance. They continue to flower in fuccefiion
all fummer and autumn, when the ftems wither
:ind decay ; but the perennial root fends forth new
liems the next fpring, and fo on for many years.
Its leaves arc large, deeply and elegantly finuated
having ilx or fcven very narrow dentated feg-

* Couvol. diile^ftus,

mentsj

NORTH AMERICA. iSj

ments ; the furface of the leaves, and of the whole
plant, is fmooth and pohflied. Another fpecies
of hibifcus, worthy of paiticular notice, is like^
wife a tall flourifhing plant ; feveral flrong flcms
arife from a root, five, fix, and feven feet high,
embelliflied with ovate lanciolate leaves, covered
with a fine down on tiieir nether furfaccs : the
flowers are very large, and of a deep incarnate co-
lour.

The lad we fliall nov*' mention feems nearly al-
lied to the alcea ; the flowers are a fize lefs than
the hibifcus, and of a fine damafl; rofe colour, and
are produced in great profufion on the tall pyrami-
dal ftems.

The lobelia cardinalis grows in great plenty here,
and has a mod fplendid appearance amidft extenfive
meadows of the golden corymbous jacobea (fenecio
jacobea) and odorous pancratiiAn.

Having finifned my tour en this princely ifland,
I prepared for repofe. A calm evening had fuc-
ceeded the llormy day. The late tumultuous winds
had now ceafed, the face of the lake had become
placid, and the fkies ferene ; the baimy winds
breathed the animating odours of the groves around
me ; and as I reclined on the elevated banks of the
lake, at the foot of a live oak, I enjoyed the prof-
peel of its wide Vv'aters, its fringed coafis, and the
diftant horizon.

The fquadrons of aquatic fowls, emerging out
of the water, and haftening to their leafy coverts on
jhnre, clofed the varied fcenes of the paft day. I
was lulled afleep by the mixed founds of the wearied

furf^

1C>4 TRAVELS m

furf, lapfing on the hard beaten fliore, and the ten-
der warblings of the painted nonpareil and other
"winged inhabitants of the grove.

At the approach of day the dreaded voice of the
aUigators fliook the ifie, and refounded along the
neighbouring coafts, proclaiming the appearance of
the glorious fun. I arofe, and prepared to accom-
plifli my daily talk. A gentle favourable gale led
us out of the harbour : \vc failed acrofs the lake,
and tovt'ards evening entered the river on the op-
pofite fouth coaft, where we made a pleafant and
fafe harbour, at a fhelly promontory, the eaft cape
of the river on that fide of the lake. It is a moft
d-firable fituatior, commanding a full view of the
lake. The cape oppofite to us was a valt cyprels
fwamp, environed by a border of grafly marfhe?,
which were projected farther into the lake by floar-
ing fields of the bright green pillia ftratoiies, which
rofe and fell alternately with the waters. Jufl to
leeward of this point, and about half a mile in the
lake is the little round illand already mentioned.
But let us take notice of our harbour and its envi-
rons : it is a beautiful little cove juft within the
fandy point, which defends it from the beating
furf of the lake. From a fhelly bank, ten or
twelve feet perpendicular from the water, we en-
tered a grove of live oaks, palm, magnolia, and
orange trees, which grow amongft ihelly hills, and
low ridges, occupying about three acres of ground,
comprehending the ilthmus, and a part of the penin-
fula, which joins it to the graify plains. This en-
chanting little foreft is partly encircled by a deep
creek, a branch of the river, that has its fource in
the high forells of the main, fouth eaft from us ;
und winds through the extenfive grafly plains which

furround

NORTH AMERICA. IO5

furround this peninfula, to an almofl infinite dif-
tance, and then unites its waters with thofe of the
river, in this little bay which formed our harbour.
This bay, about the mouth of the creek, is almofl
covered with the leaves of the nymphica nelumbo :
its large fweet-fcented yellow flowers are lifted up
two or three feet above the furface of the water,
each upon a green flarol, reprefenting the cap of li-
berty.

The evening drawing on, and there being no
convenient landing place for feveral miles higher up
the river, we concluded to remain here all night.
Whilfl my fellow travellers were employing them-
fclves in colleding fire-wood, and fixing our camp,
I improved the opportunity, in recoanoitering our
ground ; and taking my fufee with me, I penetrated
the grove, and afterwards entered fome almofl un-
limited favannas and plains, which were abfolutely
enchanting ; they had been lately burnt by the In-
dian hunters, and had juft now recovered their vernal
verdure and gaiety.

How happily fituated is this retired fpot of earth !
What an elyfium it is ! where the wandering Simi-
nole, the naked red warrior, roams at large, and
after the vigorous chafe retires from the fcorching
heat of the meridian fun. Here he reclines, and
repofes under the odoriferous Ihadcs of Zanthoxy-
lon, his verdant couch guarded by the Deity ; Li-
berty, and ihe Mules, infpiring him with wifdoni
and valour, whilfl the balmy zephyrs Ian him to
fleep.

Seduced by thefe fublime enchanting fcenes of
primitive nature, and thefe vifions of terreftrial hap-
pinefs, 1 had roved far away from Cedar Point, but

awakening

ic6 TRAVELS IN

awakening to my cares, I turned about, and in the
evening regained our camp.

On my return, I found fome of my companions
fifiiing for trout, round about the edges of the float-
ing nympheea, and not unfuccefsfully, having then,
caught more than fufTicient for us all. As the me-
thod of taking thcfe fifii is curious and fmgular, I
Ihall juft mention it.

They are taken with a hook and line, but with-
out any bait. Two people are in a little canoe, one
fitting in the ftern to (teer, and the other near the
bow, having a rod ten or twelve feet in length, to
one end of which is tied a ftrong line, about twenty
inches in length, to which are fattened three large
hooks, back to back. Thefe are fixed very fecurely,
and covered with the white hair of a deer's tail,
ihreds of a red garter, and fome particoloured fea-
thers, all which form a tuft, or taffel, nearly as
large as one's fift, and entirely cover and conceal
the hooks : this is called a bob. The fteerfinan
paddles foftly, and proceeds llowly along fiiore,
keeping the boat parallel to it, at a diftance juft
fuificient to admit the fillierman to reach the edge
of the floating weeds along fliore ; he now ingeni-
oufly fwings the bob backwards and forwards, juft
above the furface, and fometimes tips the water
with it ; when the ^unfortunate cheated troat in-
flantly fprings from under the weeds, and feizes the
fuppofed prey. Thus he is caught without a pofli-
bility of efcape, unlcfs he break the hooks, line, or
rod, which he, however, fomethnes does by dint of
flrength ; but, to prevent this, the fifiierman ufed
to the fport is careful not to raife the reed fiiddenly
up, but jerks it inftantly backwards, then (teadiiy
drags the fturdy relu6tant fifh to the fide of the

canoe.

NORTH AMERICA. 10/

canoe, and with a fudden upright jerk brings hiiii
into it.

The head of this fifh makes about one third of his
length, and confequently the mouth is very large :
birds, filh, frogs, and even ferpents, are frequently
found in its flomach.

The trout is of a lead colour, inclining to a deep
blue, and marked with tranfverfe waved lifis, of a
deep flate colour, and when fully grown, has a cad
o{ red or brick colour. The fins, with the tail,
which is large and beautifully formed, are of alight
reddiili purple, or flelh colour ; the whole body is
covered with large fcales. But what is mofl fin-
gular, this fifh is remarkably ravenous ; nothing;
living that he can feize upon efcapes his jaws ; and
the opening and extending of the branchioftega, at
the moment he rifes to the furfacc to feize his prey.,
difcovering his bright red gills through the trant-
parent waters, give him a very terrible appearance.
Indeed it may be obferved that all fifii of prey have
this opening and covering of the gills very large, in
order to difcharge the great quantity of water which
they take in at their mouth, when they ftrike at their
prey. This fifli is nearly cuneiform, the body ta-
pering gradually from the breaft to the tail, and
Hghtly comprelVed on each fide. They frequently
weigh fifteen, twenty, and thirty pounds, and arc
delicious food.

My companion, the trader, being defirous- of
crofiing the river to the oppofite fliore, in hopes of
getting a turkey, I chofe to accompany him, as it
offered a good opportunity to obferve the natural
productions of thole rich fwamps and iflands of
the river. Having crofled the river, which is here

five

io8 TRAVi:n In-

five or fix hundred yards wide, we entered a narrow
channel, w-hich, alter a Terpentine courle for rome
miles, rejoins the main river again, above ; form-
ing a large fertile iiland, of rich low land. We
landed on this ifland, and foon faw a line roebuck*
at fome diflance from u?, who appeared leader of a
company of deer that were feeding near him on the
I'erge of a green meadow. My companion parted
from me in purfuit of the deer, one way; and I,
cbferving a flock of turkeys at fome dilfance, on
the other, direded my fteps towards them, and
with great caution got near them ; when, fmgling
out a large cock, and being juft on the point of
firing, I obferved that feveral young cocks were af-
frighted, and in their language warned the relt
to be on their guard againlt an enemy, whom I
plainly perceived was induftrioufly making his fub-
tile approaches towards them, behind the fallen
trunk of a tree, about twenty yards from me. This
cunning fellow-hunter was a large fat wild cat
(lynx): he faw me, and at times feemcd to watch
my motions, as if determined to feize the delicious
prey before me. Upon which 1 changed my objed,
and levelled my piece at him. At that inftant, my
companion, at a diflance, alfo difcharged his piece
at the deer, the report of which alarmed the tlock
of turkeys ; and my fellow-hunter, the cat, fprang
over the log and trotted oft^ The trader alfo miflfed
his deer : thus we foiled each other. By this time
it being near night, we returned to camp, where
having a delicious meal ready prepared for our hun-
gry ftornachs, we fat down in a circle round our
wholefome repaft.

How fupremely blefled were our hours at thii
time I plenty of delicious and healthful food, our

* CervuR fylvaticus. lliC Aincruan d-eer.

itomacU*

1

NORTH AMERIQA. lOQ

flomachs keen, with contented minds ; under no
controul, but what reafon and ordinate paflions dic-
tated, far removed from the feats of ftrife.

Our fituation was like that of the primitive ftate
of man, peaceable, contented, and fociable. The
fimple and necellary calls of nature being fatisfied,
we were altogether as brethren of one family, ftran-
gers to envy, malice, and rapine.

The night being over we arofe, and purfucd our
courle up the river ; and in the evening reached the
trading-houfe, Spalding's upper ftore, where 1 took
up my quarters for feveral weeks.

On our arrival at the upper ftore, we found it
occupied by a white trader, v;^ho had for a compa-
nion a very handfome Siminole young woman. Her
father, who was a prince by the name of the White
Captain, was an old chief of the Siminoles, and with
part of his family, to the number of ten or twelve,
was encamped in an orange grove near the Itores,
having lately come in from a hunt.

This white trader, foon after our arrival, deli-
vered up the goods and ftore-houfes to my compa-
nion, and joined his father-in-law's camp, and foon
after went away into the forefts on hunting and tra-
ding amongft the flying camps of Siminoles.

He is at this time unhappy in his connexions with
his beautiful favage. It is but a few years fince he
came here, I think from north Carolina, a llout
genteel well-bred man, aftive, and of a heroic and
amiable difpofition ; and by his indudry, honeltv,
and enga^iini; manners, had tained the afieclions oF
the Indians, and foon made a little fortune by traffic

with

lid • TRAVELS IN

wlth the Siminoles : when unfortunately meeting
with this little charmer, they were married in the
Indian manner. He loves her fmcerely, as (he pof-
fefles every perfection in her perfon to render a man
happy. Her features are beautiful, and manners
engaging. Innocence, modeily, and love, appear
to a ftranger in every a6lion and movement ; and
thefe povv^erlul graces Ihe has fo artfully played upon
her beguiled and vanquilhed lover, and unhappy
flave, as to have already drained him of all his pof-
feflions, which fhe difl.oneftly diltributes amongft
her favage relations. He is now poor, emaciated,
and half didra&ed, often threatening to fhoot her,
and afterwards put an end to his own life ; yet he has
not refolution even to leave her ; but novV endea-
vours to drown and forget his forrows in deep
draughts of brandy. Her father condemns her dif-
honefl and cruel condud.

Thefe particulars were related to me by my old
friend the trader, dire6lly after a long conference
which he had with the White Captain on the fub-
jecl, his fon-in-law being prefent. The fcene was
affecling ; they both flied tears plentifully. My
reafons for mentioning this affair, fo foreign to my
bufmefs, was to exhibit an inftance of the power of
beauty in a favage, and her art and fineffe in im-
proving it to her private ends. It is, however,
but doing juflice to the virtue and moral conduQ: of
the Siminoles, and American aborigines in general,
to obferve, that the charafler of this woman is
condemned and detefted by her own people of both
fexes ; and if her hufband fliould turn her away,
according to the cuftoms and ufages of thcfc people,
file would not get a hufband again, as a divorce
leldom takes place but in confequence of a delibe-
rate

NORTH AMERICA. II f

rat<^ impartial trial, and public condemnation, and
then Ihe would be looked upon as a harlot.

Such is the virtue of thefe untutored favages ;
but I am afraid this is a common phrafe epithet,
having no meaning, or at lead improperly applied ;
for thefe people are both well tutored and civil ; an d
it is apparent to an impartial obferver, who refides
but a little time amongfl: them, that it is from the
mod delicate fcnfe of the honour and reputation of
their tribes and families, that their laws and cuftoms
receive their force and energy. This is the divine
principle which influences their moral condud, and
folely prefcrves their conflitution and civil govern-
ment in that purity in which they are found to pre-
vail amongft them.

CHAP.

Hi TRAVELS IN

CHAP. V.

Being defirous of continuing my travels and ob-
fervations higher up the river, and having an invi*
tation from a gentleman who was agent for, and
refident at, a large plantation, the property of ^an.
Englifh gentleman, about fixty miles higher up, I
refolved to purfue my refearches to that place ; and
having engaged in my fervice a young Indian, ne-
phew to the White Captain, he agreed to aflilt me
in working my veflel up as high as a certain bluff,
"wheie I was, by agreement, to land him, on the
Weft or Indian fhore, whence he defigned to go in
quefl of the camp of the White Trader, his relation.

Provifions and all necefiaries being procured,
and the morning pleafant, we went on board and
flood up the river. We paffed for feveral miles on
the left, by ifiands of high fwamp land, exceedingly
fertile, their banks for a good diftance from th^ wa-
ter, much higher than the interior part, and fufii-
ciently fo to build upon, and be out of the reach of
inundations. They confilt of a loofe black mould,
wdth a mixture of fand, fhells, and diflblved vege-
tables. The oppofite Indian coafl is a perpendicu-
lar bluff, ten or twelve feet high, confilting of a
black fandy earth, mixed with a large proportion of
Jhells, chiefly various fpecies of frefh water cochleae
and mytuli. Near the river, on this high Ciore,
grew ccrypha palma, magnolia grandiflora, live
oak, callicarpa, myrica ccrifera, hybifcus fpinifex,
and the beaudful evergreen fhrub called wild lime
or tallow nut. This lafl fhrub grows fix or, eight
lect high, many ercQ. items fpring from a root ;

the

NORTH AMERICA. II :

the leaves are lanceolate and entire, two or three
inches in length and one in breadth, of a deep green
colour, and polifhed ; at the foot of each leaf grows
a ftifF (harp thorn ; the flowers are fmall and ia
clullers, of a greenilh yellow colour, and fweet
fcented ; they are fucceeded by a large oval fruit,
of the fhape and fize of an ordinary plumb, of a
iine yellow colour when ripe ; a foft fweet pulp co-
vers a nut which has a thin fliell, enclofing a white
kernel fomewhat of the confidence and talte of the
fweet almond, but more oily and very much like
Jiard tallow, which induced my father when he firlt
obferved it, to call it the tallow-nur.

At the upper end of this bluff is a fine orange
grove. Here my Indian companion rcquefted me
to fet him on fnore, being already tired of rowing
under a fervid fun, and having for fome time inti-
mated a dillikc to his fituation. I readily complied
with his defire, knowing the impoliibility of com-
pelling an Indian ugainlt his own inclinations, or
even prevailing upon him by reafonable arguments,
when labour is in the queflion. Before my velfel
reached the (hore, he fprang out of her and landed,
when uttering a flirill and terrible whoop, he bound-
ed off like a roebuck, and I loft fight of him. I at
firft apprehended, that as he took his gun with him,
he intended to hunt for fome game and return to me
in the evening. The day being exceffively hot and
fultry, I concluded to take up my quarters here until
next morning.

The Indian not returning this morning, I fet fail
alone. The coafts on each fide had much the fame
appearance as already defcribed. The palm trees
here feem to be of a different fpecies from the cabbage
tree J their ftraight trunks are fixtv, eighty, or ninety

X ' feet

If4 TRAVELS IN

feet high, with a beautiful taper, of a bright afh co-
lour, until within fix or feven feet of the top, where
it is a fine green colour, crowned with an orb of
rich green plumed leaves : I have meafured the ftem
of thefe plumes fifteen feet in length, befides the
plume, which is nearly of the fame length.

The little lake, which is an expanfion of the ri-
ver, now appeared in view ; on the eall fide are ex-
tenfive marihes, and on the other, high forefts and
orange groves, and then a bay, lined with vaft cy-
prefs fwamps, both coalls gradually approaching
each other, to the opening of the river again, which
is in this place about three hundred yards wide. Even-
ing now drawing on, I was anxious to reach fome
high bank of the river, where I intended to lodge ;
and agreeably to my wiflies, I loon after difcovered
on the weft fliore a little promontory, at the turning
of the river, contrading it here to about one hun-
dred and fifty yards in width. This promontory is
a peninfula, containing about three acres of high
ground, and is one entire orange grove, with a few
live oaks, magnolias and palms. Upon doubling
the point, I arrived at the landing, which is a cir-
cular harbour, at the foot of the bli^lf, the top of
which is about twelve feet high ; the back of it is
a large cyprefs fwamp, that fpreads each way, the
right wing forming the well coalt of the little lake,
and the left ftretching up the river many miles, and
encompalfing a vail fpace of low giaify marfhes,
Ftx)m this promontory, looking eaftward acrofs the
river, 1 beheld a landfcape of low country, unpar-
ralleled as 1 think ; on the left is the eaft coaft of the
little lake, which I had juft pafTed ; and from the
orange bluff at the lower end, the high forefts begin,
and increafe in breadth from the, fhore of the lake,

making

NORTH AMERICA. II5

making a circular fweep to the right, and contain
many hundred thoufand acres of meadow ; and this
grand fweep of high forefts encircles, as I appre-
hend, at lead twenty miles of thefe green fields,
interfperfcd with hommocks or iflets of evergreen
trees, where the fovereign magnolia and lordly
palm ftand confpicuous. The illets are high Ilielly
knolls, on the fides of creeks or branches of the ri-
ver, which wind about and drain otFthe fapcrabun-
dant waters that cover thefe meadows during the
winter feafon.

The evening was temperately cool and calm.
The crocodiles began to roar and appear in uncom-
mon numbers along the fhores and in the river. I
fixed my camp in an open plain, near the utmolt
projcdlion of the promontory, under the Ihelter of
a large live oak, which (tood on the highefl part
of the ground, and but a few yards from my boat.
From this open, high fituation, I had a free prof-
ped: of the river, which was a matter of no trivial
confideration to me, having good reaibn to dread
the fubile attacks of the alligators, who were crowd-
ing about my harbour. Having collected a good
» quantity of wood for the purpofe oF keeping up a
light and fmoke during the night, I began to think
of preparing my fupper, when, upon examining my
flores, I found but a fcanty provifion. I thereupon
determined, as the mod expeditious way oi fupply-
ing my neceflities, to take my bob and try for fome
trout. About one hundred yards above my har-
bour began a cove or bay of the river, out of which
opened a large lagoon. The mourh or entrance
from the river to it was narrow, but the waters
foon after fpread and formed a little lake, extend-
ing into the marlhcs : its entrance and fliore^ with-

1 2 ill

I

H6 . TRAVELS IN

in I obferved to be verged with floating lawns of the
piftia and nymphea and other aquatic plants j thelc
I knew were excellent haunts for trout.

The verges and iflets of the lagoon were ele-
gantly embelliflied with flowering plants and flirubsj
the laughing coots with wings half fpread were trip-
ping over the little coves and hiding thenifelves in
the tufts of grafs ; young broods of the painted fum-
mer teal, flcimming the ftill furface of the waters,
and following the watchful parent unconfcious of
danger, were frequently furprifed by the voracious
trout; and he, in turn, as often by the fubtle
greedy alligator. Behold him rufhing forth from
the flags and reeds. • His enormous body fwells.
His plaited tail brandifhed high, floats upon the
lake. The waters like a cataracl defcend from his
opening jaws. Clouds of fmoke iflTue from his di-
lated noftrils. The earth trembles w ith his thunder.
When immediately from the oppofite coafl: of the
lagoon, emerges from the deep his rival champion.
They fuddenly dart upon each other. The boiling
furface of the lake marks their rapid courfe, and a
terrific conflid: commences. They now fmk to
the bottom folded together in horrid wreaths. The^
water becomes tliick and difcoloured. Again they
rife, their jaws clap together, re-echoing through
the deep furrounding foreits. Again they fmk, -when
the conteft ends at the muddy bottom of the lake,
?.nd the vanquiflied makes a hazardous efcape, hid-
ing himfelf in the muddy turbulent waters and fedge
on a dillant fliore. The proud victor exulting re-
turns to the place of aCiion. 'I'he ihores and foreflis
relound his dreadful roar, together with the triumph-
ing fliouts of thefe plaited tribes around, witnelfes
of the horrid combat.

My

NORTH AMERICA. II7

My apprehenfions were highly alarmed after be-
ing a fpectator of fo dreadful a battle. It was ob-
vious that every delay would but tend to encreafe
my dangers and difficulties, as the fun was near,
fetting, and the alligators gathered around my har-
bour from all OjUarters. From thcfe confi derations
I concluded to be expeditious in my trip to the la-
goon, in order to take fome fifli. Not thinking it
prudent to take my fufee with mc, left I might
lofe it overboard in cafe of a battle, which I had
every reafon to dread before my return, I therefore
furnilhed myfelf with a club for my defence, went
on board, and penetrating the firil line of thofc
which furrounded my harbour, ihey gave way ; but
being purfued by fcveral ver)' large ones, I kept
ftriclly on the watch, and paddled with all my might
towards the entrance of the lagoon, hoping to be
ihelleretl there from the multitude of my aflailants ;
but ere I had half-way reached the place, I was attack-
ed on all fules, feveral endeavouring to oveifet the
canoe. My fituation now became precarious to the
iaft degree : two verv large ones attacked me clofe-
jy, at the fame inilant, rufliing up with their heads
and part of their bodies above the water, roaring
rerrihly and belching floods of water over me. They
(truck their jaws together fo clofe to my ears, as
almolt to dun me, a.nd I expected every nioraent to
be dragged out of the boat and inflantlv devoured,
^ut I applied my \yeapons fo efi'eclually about me,
though at random, that I was fo fuccefsful as to beat
them off a liule ; when, finding that they defigned
to renew the battle, I made for the fiiore, as the
only means hit me for my prefer'. ation ; for, by
keeping clofe to it, 1 fhould have ray enemies on
one fide of me onlv, whereas I was before furround-
«edby them-, and there was' a probabiliry, if pulhed

^9

11§

TRAV£1.? IN

to the hifl: extremity, of faring myfelf, by jumpin^jj
out of tlie canoe on ihorc, as it is eafy to outwalk
ihem on land, although comparatively as fwift as
lightning in the water. 1 found this laft expedient
alone could fully anfwer my expectations, for as
foon as I gained the fhore, they drew off and kept
aloof. ^This was a happy relief, as my conlidence
■was, in fome degree, recovered by it. On recol-
ledling myfelf, I difcovered that I had almoft reach-
ed the entrance of the lagoon, and determined to
venture in, if poflible, to take a few filh, and then
return to my harbour, while day-light continued ;
for I could now, with caution and refolution, make
my way with fafety along Ihore ; and indeed there
was no other way to regain my camp, without leav-
ing my boat and making my retreat through the
marfhes and reeds, which, if I could even effect,
would have been in a manner throwing myfelf
away, for then there would have been no hopes of
ever recovering my bark, and returning in fafety
>yCto any fettlements of men. I accordingly proceed-
ed, and made good my entrance into the lagoon,
though not without oppofition from the alligators,
who tormed a line acrofs the entrance, but did not
purfuc me into it, nor w^as I molefted by any there
though there were fome very large ones in a cove
at the upper end. I foon caught more trout than
I had preft:nt occafion for, and the air was too hot
and fukry to admit of their being kept for many
hours, even though falted or barbecued. I now
prepared for my return to camp, vvhich I fucceeded
in with but little trouble, by keeping clofe to
the (liore ; yet I was oppofed upon re-entering the
liver out of the lagoon, and purfued near to my
landing (though not clofely attacked), particularly
by an old during one, about twelve feet in length,

who

NORTH AMERICA. IJ9

who kept clofe after me ; and •when I ftepped on.
fhore and turned about, in order to draw up my
canoe, he ruihed up near my feet, and lay there for
feme time, looking me in the face, his head and
flioulders out of water. I refolved he jfliould pay
for his temerity, and hanng a heavy load in my hi-
fee, 1 ran to my camp, and returning with my piece,
found him with his foot on the gunwale of the boat,
in fearch of fifli On my coming up he withdrew
fullenly and flowly into the water, but foon returned
and placed himfclf in his former pofititm, looking
at me, and feeming neither fearful nor any way
difturbed. I foon difparched him by lodging the
contents of my gun in his head, and then proceeded
to cleanfe and prepare my fiOi for fupper ; and
accordingly took them out of the boat, laid them
down on the fand clofe to the water, and began to
fcale them ; when, railing my head, I faw before
me, through the clear water, the head nnd flioul-
ders of a very large alligator, moving flowly towards
me. I inrtantly Ttepped back, when, with a fweep
of his tail, he brulhed off feveral of my fifh. It
was certainly moa providential that I looked up at
that inftant, as the monfter would probably, in lefs
than a miraite, have feized and dragged me into the
river. This incredible boldnefs of the animal dif-
turbed me greatly, fuppofmg there could now be no
reafoaable fafety for me during the night, but by
keeping continually on the watch : I therefore, as
foon as I had prepared the fifh, proceeded to fe-
cuie myk if and eifccls in the bed manner I could.
]n. the firit pl:»ce, 1 hauled my bark upon the
fliore, aunoft clear out of the water, to prevent
their oxerfetring or finking her; after this, every
moveable Vvas taken out ?j\d carried to my camp,
V.hich was but a few yards otl'; theii ranging fome

dry

120 TRAVF.I S IK

dry wood in fuch order as was the mofl: convenient,
I cleared the ground round about it, that there might
be no impediment in my way, in cafe of an attack
in the night, either from the water or the land ; for
I difcovered by this time, that this fmall ifthmus,
from its remote fituation and fruitfulnefs, was re-
forted to my bears and wolves. Having prepared
myfelf in the bell manner I could, 1 charged my
gun and proceeded to reconnoitre my camp and the
adjacent grounds ; when 1 difcovered that the pe-
ninlula and grove, at the diftance of about two hun-
dred yards from my encampment, on the land fide,
were inverted by a cyprefs Iwamp, covered with
water, which below was joined to the ihore of the
little lake, and above to the marflies furrounding the
lagoon ; fo that I was confined to an iflet exceed-
ingly circumfcribed, and T found there was no other
retreat for me, in cafe of an attack, but by either
afcending one of the large oaks, or pufliing off with
my boat.

It was by this time dufk, and the alligators had
nearly ceafed their roar, when 1 was again alarmed
by a tumultuous noife that feemed to be in my har-
bour, and therefore engaged my immediate atten-
tion. Returning to my camp, I found it undif-
turbed, and then continued on to the extreme point
of the promontory, where 1 faw a fcenc, new and
furprifmg, which at firft threw my fcnfes into fuch
a tumult, that it was fome time before I could com-
prehend uhiit was the matter ; however, I foon ac-
counted for the prodigious alTemblage of crocodiles
at this place, which exceeded every thing of the kind
I had ever heard of.

How fliall I exprefs myfelf {o as to convey an
adequate idea of it to tiie reader, and at the lame

time.

NORTH AMERICA. 121

time avoid raifmg fufplcions of my veracity. Should
I fay, that the river (in this place) from fliore to
fhore, and perliaps near half a mile above and be-
low me, appeared to be one folid bank of fifli, of
various kinds, pufhing through this narrow pafs of
St. Juan's into the little lake, on their return down,
the river, and that the alligators were in fuch in-
credible numbers, and fo clofe together from fhore
to fhore, that it would have been eafy to have
walked acrofs on their heads, had the animals been
harmlefs ? What expreflions can fulficiently declare
the fhocking fccne that for fome minutes conti-
nued, whilfl this mighty army of fifh were forcing
the pafs ? During this attempt, thoufands, I may
fay hundreds of thoufands of them were caught
and fwallowed by the devouring alligators. I have
feen an alligator take up out of the water feveial
great fifh at a time, and juft fqueeze them betwixt
his jaws, while the tails of the great trout flapped
about his eyes and lips, ere he had fwallowed them.
The horrid noife of their clofmg jaws, their plung-
ing amidll the broken banks of fifli, nnd rifnig
with their prey fome feet upright above the water,
the floods of water and blood rufliing out of their
mouths, and the clouds of vapour iHuing from their
wide noifrils, were truly frightful. This fcene con-
tinued at intervals during the night, as the fifh
came to the pafs. After this fight, fliocking and
tremendous as it was, 1 found myfelf fomewhat ea-
fier and more reconciled to my fituation ; being
convinced that their extraordinary alfemblage here
was owing to this annual fead of fiih ; and that
they were fo well employed in their own element,
that I had little occafion to fear [heir paying me a
vifit.

It

1-22 TRAVELS IN

It being now almoft; night, I returned to my
camp, where I had left my fifh broiUng, and my
kettle of rice ftewing ; and having with me oil,
pepper, and fait, and excellent oranges hanging in
abundance over my head (a valuable fubftitute for
vinegar) I fat down and legaled my felf cheerfully.
Having finifhed my repaft, I rekindled my fire for
light, and whild 1 was revifmg the notes of my pad
day's journey, I was fuddenly roufed with a noife
behind me tov/ard the main land. I fprang up on
my feet, and liftening, I diftinctly heard fome crea-
ture wading in the water of the iUhmus. I feized
my gun, and went cautloully from my camp, dired:-
ing my fteps towards the noife : when I had ad-
vanced about thirty yards, I halted behind a cop-
pice of orange trees, and foon perceived two very
large bears, vvhich had made their way through the
water, and had landed in the grove, about one hun-
dred yards diftance from me, and were advancing
towards me. I waited until they were within thirty
Yards of me : they there began to fnufF and look to-
wards my camp : I fnapped my piece, but it fiaflied,
on which they both turned about and gallopped off,
plunging through the water and fwamp, never halt-
ing, as I fuppofe, until they reached faft land, as I
could hear them leaping and plunging a long time.
They did not prefume to return again, nor was I
molefted by any other creamre, except being occa-
fionally awakened by the whooping of owls, fcream-
ing of bitterns, or the wood-rats running aniongfl:
the leave^;.

y \ . ...

I The wood-rat is a very curious animal. It is
not half the fize of the domellic rat; of a dark brown
or black colour ; its tail llendcr and faorter in
proportion, and covered thinly with (hort hair.

It

NORTH AMERICA. I23

It is fingular with refpetl to its ingenuity and great
labour in the conRruflion of its habitation, which
is a conical pyramid, about three or four feet high,
conflrufted with dry branches, which it collects
with great labour and perfeverance, and piles up
without any apparent order ; yet they are io inter-
woven with one another, that it would take a bear
or wild cat fome time to pull one of thefe caftles to
pieces, and allow the animals fuiiicient time to fe-
cure a retreat with their young.

The noife of the crocodiles kept me awake the
greater part of the night ; but when I arofe in the
morning, contrary to my expe«Stations, there was
perfect peace ; very few of them to be feen, and
thofe were afleep on the fhore. Yet I was not able
to fupprefs my fears and apprehenfions of being at-
tacked by them in future ; and indeed ye(lerday*s
combat with them, notwithftanding I came off in a
manner victorious, or at lead made a fafe retreat,
had left fufficient impreflion on my mind to damp
my courage ; and it feemed too much for one of
my ftrength, being alone in a very fmall boat, to
encounter fuch colleded danger. To purfue my
voyage up the river, and be obliged every even-
ing to pais fuch dangerous defd«s, appeared to ms
as perilous as running the gauntlet betv\ixt two rows
of Indians armed with knives and firebrands. I
however refolved to continue my voyage one day
longer, if I poilibly could with fafcty, and then re-
turn down the river, fliould I find the like difficul-
ties to oppofe. Accordingly I got every thing on
board, charged my gun, and let fail cautioufly,
along fhore. As I paiied by Battle lagoon, I began
fo tremble and keep a good look out ; when Sud-
denly a huge alligator rulhcd out of the reeds, and

with

124 TRAVELS IN

with a tremendous roar came up, and darted as
fwift as an arrow under my boat, emerging upright
on my lee quarter, with open jaws, and belching
water and fmoke that fell upon me like rain in a
hurricane. I laid foundly about his head with my
club and beat him off; and after plunging and dart-
ing about my boat, he went off on a ftraight line
through the water, feemingly with the rapidity of
lightning, and entered the cape of the lagoon. I
now employed my time to the very bell advantage
in paddling clofe along fhore, but could not forbear
looking now and then behind me, and prefently
perceived one of them coming up again. The wa-
ter of the river hereabouts was fhoal and very clear :
the monfler came up with the ufual roar and me-
naces, and paffed clofe by the fide of my boat,
when I could diftin£lly fee a young brood of alliga-
tors, to the number of one hundred or more, fol-
lowing after her in a long train. They kept clofe
together in a column without draggling off to the
one fide or the other ; the young appeared to be of
an equal fize, about fifteen inches in length, almoft
black, with pale yellow tranfverfe waved clouds or
blotches, much like rattlefnakes in colour. 1 now
loft fight of my enemy again.

Still keeping clofe along fiiore, on turning a
point or projection of the river bank, at once I ne-
held a great number of hillocks or fmall pyramids,
refembling hay-cocks, ranged like an encampment
along the banks. They flood fifteen or twenty yards
diftant from the water, on a high marfli, about four
feet perpendicular above the water. I knew them
to be the nefts of the crocodile, having had a de-
fcription of them before; and now expecied a fu-
rious and general attack, as I law feveral latge cro-
codiles

KORTH AMERICA. 12$

codiles fwlmming abreaft of thefe buildings. Thefe
nefts being fo great a curiofity to me, I was deter-
mined at all events immediately to land and exa-
mine them. Accordingly, 1 ran my bark on fhore
at one of their landing-places, which was a fort of
nick or little dock, from which afcended a floping
path or road up to the edge of the meadow, where
their nefts were ; mod of them were deferted, and
the great thick whitifli egg-fhells lay broken and
fcattered upon the ground round about them.

The nefts or hillocks are of the form of an obtufe
cone, four feet high and four or five feet in dia-
meter at their bafes ; they are conft rutted with mud,
grafs, and herbage. At firft they lay a floor of this
kind of tempered mortar on the ground, upon which
they depofit a layer of eggs, and upon this a llra-
tum of mortar, feven or eight inches in thicknefs,
and then another layer of eggs, and in this manner
one ftratum upon another, nearly to the top. I be-
lieve they commonly lay from one to two hundred
eggs in a neft : thefe are hatched, I fuppofe, by the
heat of the fun ; and perhaps the vegetable fub-
ftances mixed with the earth, being a6led upon by
the fun, may caufe a fmall degree of fermentation,
and fo increafe the heat in thofe hillocks. The
ground for feveral acres about thefe nefts fliewed evi-
dent marks of a continual refort of rjligators ; the
grafs was every where beaten down, hardly a blade
or ftraw was left ftanding ; whereas, all about, at a
diftance, it was five or fix feet high, and as thick
as it could grow together. The female, as I ima-
gine, carefully watches her own neft of eggs until
they are all hatched ; or perhaps while ftie is attend-
ing her own brood, fiie takes under her care and
protection as many as file can get at one time, ei-
ther

10,6 TRAVELS IN

ther from her own particular nefl or others : bat
certain it is, that the young are not left to ihift for
themlelves ; for I have had frequent opportunities of
feeing the female alligator leading about the fliores
her train of young ones, juft as a hen does her
brood of chickens ; and flie is equally afliduous and
courageous in defending the young, which are un-
der her care, and providing for their fubfiltence ;
and when Ihe is balking upon the warm banks, with
her brood around her, you may hear the young ones
continually whining and barking, like young pup-
pies. I believe but few of a brood live to the years
of full growth and magnitude, as the old feed on
the young as long as they can make prey of them.

The alligator when full grown is a very large
and terrible creature, and of prodigious flrength,
activity, and fwiftnefs in the water. I have feen
them twenty feet in length, and fome are fuppofed
to be twenty-two oj twenty-three feet. Their body
is as large as that of a horfe ; their fhape exaftly
refembles that of a lizard, except their tail, which
is flat or cuneiform, being comprefled on each fide,
and gradually diminifliing from the abdomen to
the extremity, which, with the whole body is co-
vered with horny plates or fquamm^e, impenetra-
ble v.'hen on the body of the live animal, even to
a rifie-ball, except about their head and jufl be-
hind their fore-legs or arms, where it is faid they
arc only vulnerable. The head of a full-grown one
is about three feet, and the mouth opens nearly the
fame length ; their eyes are fmall in proportion and
feem funk deep in the head, by means of the pro-
minency of the brows ; the noftrils are large, in-
flated and prominent on the top, fo that the head
in the water refembles, at a diftance, a great

chunk,

NORTH AMERICA. 12/

chunk of wood floating about. Only the upper jaw
moves, which they raife ahuofl: perpendicular, fo
as to form a right angle with the lower one. In
the fore-part of the upper jaw, on each fide, juffc
under the noflrils, are two very large, thick, flron^
teeth or tufks, not very fliarp, but rather the Ihape
of a cone : thefe are as white as the finefl polifhed
ivory, and are not covered by any Ikin or lips and
always in fight, which gives the creature a frightful
appearance : in the lower jaw are holes oppofite tn
thefe teeth, to receive them : when thc;y clap their
jaws together it caufes a furprifing noile, like that
which is made by forcing a heavy plank with vio-
lence upon the ground, and may be heard at a great
diltance.

But what is yet more furprifing to a flrangcr, is
the incredible loud and terrifying roar, which they
are capable of making, efpecialiy in the Ipring fea-
fon, their breeding time, it moil i-efembles very
heavy diftant thunder, not only Ihaking the air and
waters, but caufmg the earth to tremble ; and when
hundreds and thoufands are roaring at the fame
time, you can fcarcely be perfuaded, but that the
whole globe is violently and dangerouily agitated.

An old champion, who is perhaps abfolute fovc-
reign of a little lake or lagoon fwhen fifty lefs than
himfelf are obliged to content themfelves with fwel-
ling and roaring in little coves round about) dans
forth from the reedy coverts all at once, on the
furface of the waters, in a right line ; at firll feem-
ingly as rapid as lightning, but gradually more flowly
until he arrives at the center of the lake, when he
flops. He now fwells himfelf by drawing in wind
and water through his mouth, which caufes a louj

fonorous

128 TRAVELS IN

fonorous rattling in the throat for near a minute,
but it is immediately forced out again through his
mouth and noflrils, with a loud noile, brandifhing
his tail in the air, and the vapour afcending from
his noftrils like fmoke. At other times, when fwollen
to an extent ready to burft, his head and tail lifted
up, he fpins or twirls round on the fur face of the
water. He adls his part like an Indian chief when
rehearfmg his feats of war ; and then retiring, the
exhibition is continued by others who dare to flep
forth, and flrive to excel each oiher, to gain the
attention of the favourite female.

Having gratified my curiofity at this general breed-
ing-place and nurfery of crocodiles, I continued
my voyage up the river without being greatly dif-
turbed by them. In my way I obferved iflets or
floating fields of the bright green Piftia, decorated
with other amphibious plants, as Senecio Jacobea,
Perficaria amphibia, Coreupfis bidens, Hydrocotylc
fluitans, and many others of lefs note.

The fvvamps on the banks and iflands of the river
are generally three or four feet above the furface of
the v^^ater, and very level ; the timber large and
growing thinly, more fo than what is obferved to be
in the fvvamps below lake George ; the black rich
earth is covered Xvith moderately tall, and very fuc-
culent tender grafs, which when chewed is fweet and
agreeable to the tafte, fomewhat like young fugar-
cane : it is a jointed decumbent grafs, fending out
radiculss at the joints into the earth, and fo fpreads
itfelf, by creeping over its furface.

The large timber trees, which poffefs the low lands,
are Acer rubrum, Ac. negundo, Ac. glaucum, Ulmus
iylvatica, Fraxinus excelfior, Frax. aquatica, Ulmus

fuberifer^

I

NORTH AMERICA. IJig

fuberifer, Gledltfia monofperma, Gledit. trlacan-
thus, Diofpyros Virginica, NylFa aquatica, Nyfl'a
fylvatica, juglans cinerea, Quercus cfentata, Qiier-
cus phillos, Hopea tinctoria, Corypha palma, Mo-
rus rubra, and many more. The palm jryows on
the edges of the banks, where they are raifed higher
than the adjacent level ground, by the accuniulatioa
of fand, river-fliells, iic. 1 paffed along fsveral miles
by thofe rich fwamps : the channels of the river
which encircle the feveial fertile iflands I had
palled, now uniting, formed one deep chmnel near
three hundred yards over. The banks of the liver
on each fide began to rife, and prefent flielly bluffs,
adorned by beautiful Orange groves. Laurels and
Live Oaks. And now appeared in Tight, a tree
that claimed my whole attention : it was the Carica
papaya, both male and female, which were in
flower ; and the latter both in flower and fruit,
fome of which were ripe, as large, and of the form
of a pear, and of a mod charming appearance.

This admirable tree is certainly the mofl beau-
tiful of any vegetable production I know of; the
towering Laurel Magnolia, and exalted Palm, in-
deed exceed it in grandeur and magnificence, but
not in elegance, delicacy, and gracefulnefs. It rifes
ered to the height of fifteen or twenty feet, with a
perfedly flraight tapering Item, which is fmooth and
polifhed, of a bright a(h colour, refembling leaf
filver, curioufly infcribed with the footdeps of the
fallen leaves ; and thefe vefliges are placed in a very
regular unilorm imbricated order, which has a fine
t-ffeft, as if the little column were elegantly carved
all over. Its perfectly fpherical top is formed of
very large lobe-finuatc leaves, fupported on very
long footftalks ; the lower leaves are the largeit
as well as their petioles the longed, and make

a a. graceful

130 TRAVELS .IN

a graceful fweep or flourifli, like the long f or the
branches of a fconce candleftick. The ripe and
green fruit are placed round about the ftem or
trunk, Irom the lowernioll leaves, where the ripe
fruit are, and upwards almoft to the top ; the heart
or inmoll piihy part of the trunk is in a manner hol-
low, or at bell confifls of very thin porous medullrr
or membranes. The tree very feldom branches or
divide^; into limbs, I believe never unlefs the top is
by accident broke oiY when very young : I faw one
Avhich had two tops or heads, the Item of which di-
vided near the earth. It is always green, orna-
mented at the fame time with flowers and fruit,
which like figs come out fmgly from the trunk or
item.

After refling and refrefiiing niyfclf in thefe de-
llphtful fliades, 1 left them with reluctance. Em-
barking again after the fervid heats of the meridian
fun was abated, for fome time 1 paifed by broken
lidc^es of iheliy high land, covered with groves
of Live Oak, Palm, Olea Americana, and Orange
trees ; fr ccjuently obferving Moating iflets and green
fields of the Tiiiia near the fliores of the river and
lagoons.

Here is in this river and in the waters all over
Florida, a very curious and handfome fpecies of
birds ; the people call them Snake Birds ; I think I
have fcen paintings of them on the Chinefe fcreens
and other India piiftures : they fcem to be a fpecies
of cormorant or loon (Colymbus cauda elongata),
but far more beautiful and delicately formed
than any other fpecies that I have ever feen. The
head and neck of this bird are extremely fmall and
flender, the latter very long indeed, almofl out of
all proportion ; the bill long, flraight, and flender,

tapering

NORTH AMERICA. . I3I

Capering from its ball to a fharp point ; all the upper
fide, the abdomen and thighs, are as black and
gloffy as a raven's, covered with feathers fo firm and
elaftic, that they in feme degree refemble fifh-lcales ;
the bread: and upper part of the belly are covered
with feathers of a cream colour ; the tail is very
long, of a deep black, and tipped with a filvery
white, and when fpreac^, reprefents an unfurled fan.
They delight to fit in little peaceable communities,
on the dry limbs of trees, hanging over the flill
waters, with their wings and tails expanded, I fup-
pofe to cool and air themfclves, when at the fame time
they behold their images in the watery mirrour. At
fuch times, when m e approach them, they drop off
the limbs into the water as if dead, and for a minute
or two are not to be feen ; when on a fudden, at a
vaft diftance, their long (lender head and neck
only appear, and have very much the appearance
of a fnake, and no other part of them is to be feen
when fwimming in the water, except fometimes
the tip end of their tail. In the heat of the day they
are feen in great numbers, failing very high in the
air, over lakes and rivers.

I doubt not but if this bird had been an inhabi-
tant of the Tiber in Ovid's days, it would have
furniflied him with a fubjecl for fome beautiful and
entertaining metamorphofes. I believe it feeds en-
tirely on filh, for its tleih fmell.* and tafles intolera-
bly flrong of it ; it is fcarcely to be eaten unlefs
conftrained by infufferable hunger.

I had now fwamps and marfhes on both fides of
me ; and evening coming on apace, I began to look
out for high land to encamp on ; but the extenfive
niarlhes feemed to have no bounds, and it was ai-
rnoll dark when I found a lolerably fui table place,

K 2 and

J32 TRAVELS h<

and at lafl: was condrained to take up with a narrow
Itrip of high fhelly bank, on the weft fide. Great
numbers of crocodiles were in fight on both fhores.
I ran my bark on fhore at a perpendicular bank four
or five fetit above the water, juft by the roots and
lindcr the fpreading limbs of a great Live Oak : this
appeared to have been an ancient camping place by
Indians and ftrolling adventurers, from a(h heaps
and old rotten fire brands and chunks, fcattered
about on the furface of the ground ; but was now
evidently the harbour and landing place of fome
fovereign alligator : there led up from it a deep
beaten path or road, which was a convenient afcent.

I did not approve of my iniended habitation from
thefe circumltances ; and no fooner had I landed
and moored my canoe to the roots of the tree, than
1 faw a huge crocodile rifing up from the bottom
tlofe by me, who, when 1 perceived that 1 faw
him, plung.^d down again under my veflel. This
determined me to be on my guard, and in time to
provide againll a troublefome night. 1 took out of
my boat every moveable, which I carried upon the
bank ; then chol'e my lodging clofe to my canoe,
under the fpreading Oak, as hereabouts only, the
ground was open and clear of high grafs and buflres,
and confcquently I had fome room to ftir and look
round about. I then proceeded to collect firewood,
which 1 found diiiic-lt to procure. Here were ftand-
ing a few Orange trees. As for provifions, I had
liived one or two barbecued trout, the remains of
my laft evening's colleclion, in tolerable good order,
though the fultry heats of the day had injured them ;
yet by Itewing them up afreCh w ith the lively juice
ot Oranges, they ferved well enough for my fup-
pcr, as I had by this time but litttle relilh or appe-
tite

NORTH AMERICA. I33

titc for my viftuals ; for conflant watching at night
againft the attacks of alligators, flinging of muf-
quitoes and fultry heats of the day ; together with
the fatigues of working my bark, had almolt de-
prived me of every defire but that of ending my
troubles as fpeedily as poffiblc. I had the good for-
tune to colle<^ together a fufficiency of dry (licks
to keep up a Hglit and fmoke, which I latd by me,
and then fpread my fkins and blankets upon the
ground, kindled up a little fire, and fupped before
it was quite dark. The evening was however ex-
tremely pleafant ; a briik cool breeze fprang up, and
the (kies were pcrfedly ferene, the flars twink-
ling with uncommon brilliancy, i (Iretched myfelf
along before my fire ; having the river, my little
harbour, and the ftcru of my vell'el in view ; and now
through fatigue and wearinefs I fell afleep. But
this happy temporary releafe from cares and trou-
bles I enjoyed but a few moments, when I was
^awakened and greatly furprifed, by the terrifying
fcreams of Owls in the deep fwamps around me ;
and what increafe my extreme mifery v/as the dif-
ficulty of getting quite awake, and yet hearing at
the fame time fuch fcreaming and fliouting, which
increafed and fpread every way lor miles around, in
dreadful peals vibrating through the dark extenfive
forcils,^ meadows, and lakes. I could not after this
furprife recover my former peaceable flatc and tran-
quillity of mind and repofc, during the long night ;
and I believe it was happy for me that I was awaken-
ed, for at that moment the crocodile was dafiiing
my canoe againft the roots of the tree, endeavouring
to get into her for the fifh, which J iiowever pre-
vented. Another time in the ni^ht I believe I nar-
rowly efcaped being dragged into th< river by him ;
jiQT when a^^ain through exec wive fatigue 1 had fallen

alleepj

134- TRAVELS IN

afleep, but was again awakened by the fcrcaminpj
owl, I found the monRer on the top of the bank,
his head towards me not above two yards diflant ;
when ftarting up and feizing my fufee well loaded,
which I always kept under my head in the night
time, he drew back and plunged into the water.
After this, I roufed up my fire, and kept a light
during the remaining part of the night, being deter-
mined not to be caught napping fo again : indeed the
mufquitoes alone would liave been abundantly fuffi-
cient to keep any creature awake that pofiefl'ed their
perfe£t fenfes; but I was overcome and Itupified with
inceffant watching and labour. As foon as I dif-
covered the firft figns of day-light, I arofe, got all
my efFe6ls and implements on board, and fet fail,
proceeding upwards, hoping to give the mufqui-
toes the flip, who were now, by the cool morning
dews and breezes, driven to their flielter and hiding
places. I was miflaken however in thefe conjec-
tures, for great numbers of them, which had con-
cealed themfelves in my boat, as foon as the fun
arofe, began to revive, and fting me on my legs,
which obliged me to land in order to get bufhes to
beat them out of their quarters.

It is very pleafmg to obferve the banks of the
river ornamented with hanging garlands, com-
pofed of varieties of climbing vegetables, both
fhrubs and plants, forming perpendicular green
walls, with projecting jambs, pilaflers, and deep
apartments, twenty or thirty feet high, and com-
pletely covered with Glycine frutefcens, Glyc. apios,
Vitis labrufca, Vitis vulpina, Rajana, Hedera quin-
quifolia, Hedera arborea, Eupatorium fcandens,
Bignonia crucigera, and various fpecies of Convol-
vulus, particularly an amazing tall climber of this

genus.

NORTH AMERICA. 13^

^eiius, or perhaps an Ipomea. This has a very
large white flower, as big as a fmall funnel ; its tube
is five or fix inches in length, and not thicker than
a pipe item ; the leaves are alfo very large, oblong,
and cordated, fometimes dentated or angled, near
the infcrtion of" the foot-ftalk ; they are of a thin,
texture, and of a deep green colour. It is exceed-
ingly curious to behold the Wild Squafli "^ climbing
jover the lofty limbs of the trees ; its yellow fruit,
fomewhat of the fize and figure of a large orange,
pendant from the extremities of the limbs over the
water.

Towards noon, the fultry heats being intolerable,
1 put into (liore, at a middling high bank, five or
fix feet above the furface of the river. This low fandy
t-eftaceous ridge along the river fide was but narrow ;
the furface light, black, and exceedingly fertile, pro-
ducing very large venerable Live Oaks, Palms, and
grand Magnolias, fcatteringly planted by nature.
There being no underwood to prevent the play of
the breezes from the river, it aiforded a defirable re-
treat from the fun's heat. Immediately at the back of
this narrow ridge, were deep wetfwamps, where Hood
fome aftonifliingly tall and fpreading Cyprefs trees.
And now being weary and drowfy, I was induced
to indulge and liflen to the dictates of rcafon and
invitations to repofej which confenting to, after
fecuring my boat and reconnoitering the ground,
I fpread my blanket under the Oaks near my boat,
on which 1 extended myfelf, where, falling to fieep, I
inftantaneouily palfed away the fultry hours of noon.
What a bllfsful tranquil repofei Undilfurbed I awoke,
refrefl«ed and ilrengthened ; I cheerfully Hepped on
board again, and continued to afcend ihe river. The

aftcrnooij

156 TRAVEL? \V

afternocn be'ng cool r.nd pleafanf, and the trcr?
very lofty on the higher weftern banks of the river,
by keeping near that (hore I pafled under agreea-
ble fliades the remaining part of the day. During
almofl: all this day's voyage, the banks of the liver
on both fliores were middling high, perpendicular,
and waflied by the brilk current : the ihores were
not lined with the green lawns of floating aquatics,
and confequently net very commodious rcforts or
harbours for crocodiles ; I therefore v, as not dil-
turbed by them, and faw but few, but thofe were
very large. I however did not like to lodge on
thofe narrow ridges, inverted by fuch dreary fwamps;
and evening approaching, I began to be anxious
for high land for a camping place. It was quite
dark before I came up to a blulf, which I had in
view a long lime, over a very extenfive point of
meadows. I landed however at lafl, in the bed
manner I could, at a magnificent forefl of Orange
groves, Oaks, and Palms. I here, with little labour
or difficulty, foon colledfed a fufficient quantity of
dry wood: there was a pleafant vifta of grafs be-
twixt the grove and the edge of the river bank,
which afforded a very convenient, open, airy en-
camping place, under the protection of fome fpread-
ing Oaks.

This was a high perpendicular blufi', fronting
more than one hundred yards on the river, the earth
black, loofe, and fertile : it is a compofition ofriver-
fhells, fand, &c. At the back of it from the river, were
open Pine forefls and favannas. I met with a cir-
cumflance here, that v^dth fome, may be reckoned
worthy of mentioning, fince it regards the monu-
ments of the ancients. As I have already obfcrvcd,
when I landed it was quite dark j and in collecting

wood

NORTH AMERICA. 1 37

Vood for my fire, flrolling in the dark about the
groves, I found the furface of the ground very un-
even, by means of little mounts and lidges. In
the morning 1 found I had taken up my lodging on
the border of an ancient burying ground, containing
fepulchres or tumuli of the Yamafees, who were here
llain by the Creeks in the lafl; decifive battle, the
Creeks having driven them into this point, between
the doubling of the liver, where few of them efcaped
the fury of the conquerors. Thefe graves occupied
the whole grove, confiding of iwo or three acres of
ground : there were near thirty of thefe cemeteries of
the dead, nearly of an equal fize and form, being
bblong, twenty feet in length, ten or twelve feet in
width, and three or four feet high, now overgrown
with orange trees, live oaks, laurel magnolias, red
bays and other trees and fnrubs, compofing dark and
folenm ihades.

I here, for the firH: time fince I left the trading
houfe, enjoyed a night of peaceful repofe. I arofe,
greatly refrcflied and in good fpirits, (lepped on
board my bark, and continued my voyage. After
doubling the point, I pafTed by fwamps and meadows
on each fide of me. The river here is fomcthing
more contracted within perpendicular banks ; the
land of an excellent quality, fertile, and producing
prodigioufly large timber and luxuriant herbage.

The air coniinucd fuitrv, and fcarccly enough
wind to flutter the leaves on the trees. The Eaflern
coail of the river now opens, and prefenis to view
ample plains, confifling of grafiy marflies and green
meadows, and afibrds a profped almoft unlimit-
ed and extremely plenf.ng. The oppofite fhore
exhibits a fublime contralt ; a high bluff" bearing
magnificent forclls of grand magnolia, glorious

palms.

138 TRAVELS IM

palms, fruitful orange groves, live oaks, bays and
other trees. This grand elevation continues four or
five hundred yards, defcribing a gentle curve- on the
river, ornamented by a fublime grove of palms, con-
fiding of many hundreds of trees together ; thev
entirely fhade the ground under them. Above and
below the bluff, the grounds gradually defcend to
the common level fwamps on the river: at the back
of this eminence open to view expanfive green
meadows or favannas, in which are to be feen glit-
tering ponds of water, furrounded at a great dif-
tance by high open pine forefts and hommocks,
and iflets of oaks and bays projecting into the
favannas. After ranging about thefe folitary groves
and peaceful {hades, I re-embarked and continued
fome miles up the river, between elevated banks
of the fwamps or low lands ; when on the Ea(t
ihore, in a capacious cove or winding of the river,
were pleafing floating fields of piftia j and in the
bottom of this cove opened to view a large creek
or branch of the river, which I knew to be the en-
trance to a beaufiful lake, on the banks of which
was the farm I was going to vifit, and which I de-.
figned fliould be the iaft extent of my voyage up the
river.

About noon the weather became extremely fultry,
not a breath of wind flirring, hazy or cloudy, with
very heavy diflant thunder, which was anfwered by
the crocodiles, fure prefage of a ftorm.

Soon after afcending this branch of the river, on
the right hand prefents itfelf to view a delightful
Ijrtle bluff, confifting chiefly of fliells, and covered
with a dark grove of red cedar, Zanthoxylon and
myrtle. I could not refifl: the temptation to fl:op
h^TQ, although the tremendous thunder all around

the

NORTH AMERICA. 139

the, hemifphere alarmed me greatly, having a large
lake to crofs. From this grove appears to view an
expanfive and pleafmg profped. The beauteous
long lake in front, about North EafI" from me, its
moft diftant Eafl fhores adorned with dark, high
forefts of ftately trees ; North and South almoft end-
lefs green plains and meadows, embelliflied with
iflets and projeding promontories of iiigh, dark fo-
refts, where the pyramidal magnolia grandiflora,
palma elata, and fliady oak, conlpicuoufly tower.

Being heretofore fo clofely inverted by high fo-
refls and deep fwamps ot the great river, I was pre-
vented from feeing (he progrefs and increafe of the
approaching tempeft, rhe terrific appearance of
which now at once confounded me. How purple
and fiery appeared the tumultuous clouds, fwiftly
afcending or darting from the horizon upwards !
they feemed to oppofe and dafli againft each other ;
the ikies appeared ftrcaked with blood or purple
flame overhead, the flaming lightning flreaming
and darting about in every diredion around, feemed
to fill the world with fire ; whilfl: the heavy thunder
kept the earth in a conllant tremor. I had yet
fome hopes of crolTmg the lake to the plantation in
fight. On the oppofite fliore of the creek before
me, and on the cape as we enter the lake, flood a
large iflet or grove of oaks and jtalms. Here I in-
tended to feek flicker and abide till the fury of the
hurricane was'overpaft, if I found it too violent to
permit me to crofs the lake. In confequence of this
precipitate determination, I ilcpped into my boat
and puflied off. What a dreadful rufhing and roaring
there was every where around me ! and to my ut-
ter confufion and aftonifliment, I could not find from
what particular quarter its flrongefl current or direc-

riou

14* TRAVEtS IN

tlon c^me, whereby I might have a proper chance
of taking meafures for fecuring a harbour or running
from it. The high forefls behind me bent to the
blaft ; and the (hirdy hmbs of the trees cracked. I
had by this time got up abreait of the grove or hom-
mock : the hurricane clofeby, purfuing me, I found
it dangerous and imprudent in the higheft degree to
put in here, as the groves were already torn up, and
the fpreading limbs of the ancient live oaks were
flying over my head, and carried about in the air as
leaves and fiubble. I ran by and boldly entered the
lake (being hurried In by a flrong current, which
i'eemed a prodigy, the violent v.'ind driving the flreani
of the creek back again into the lake), and as foou
as pofiible took fhelter under the high reedy bank of
the lake, and made faft my bark to the boughs of a
low fhrubby Hickory, that leaned over the water.
Such was the violenc^^ of the wind, that it ralfed the
waters on the oppofite fiiores of the lake feverai feet
perpendicular, and there was a rapid flow of water
from thg creek into it, which was contrary to its
natural courfe. Such floods of rain fell during the
fpace of half or three quarters of an hour, that my
boat was filled, and I expected every moment when
I lliould fee her fink to the bottom of the lake ; and
the violence of the wind kept the cable fo conftantly
extended^ that it was beyond my ability to get to
her. My box which contained my books of fpeci-
mens and other collecUons, was floating about in
her ; and for a great part of the time the rain came
dovi'n with fuch rapidity and fell in fuch quantities,
that every object was totally obfcured, excepting the
continual ftreams or rivers of lightning, pouring
from the clouds. All feemed a frightful chaos.
When the wind and rain abated, I was overjoyed to
fee the face of nature again appear.

It

KORTH AMERICA. 141

It took me an.hour or more to clear the water out
of my bark. I then crofl'ed the lake before a briik
and favourable breeze (it was about a mile over),
and landed fafely at the plantation.

When I arrived, my friend was affrighted to fee
me, and immediately inquired ot me in what manner
I came there ; fuppohng it impoffible (until I had
fhowed him my boat ) that I could have arrived by
water, through fo tremendous a hurricane.

Indeed I faw plainly that they were greatly terri-
fied, having fuffcred almoll irreparable damages
from the violence of the ilorm. All the buildincrs
on the plantation, except his own dwelling-houle,
were laid almoll flat to the ground, or the logs and
roof rent afunder and tvvl fled about ; the manfion-
houfe fliook and reeled over their heads. He had
nearly one hundred acres of the Indigo plant almolt
ripe for the fird cutting, vihich were nearly ruined ;
and feveral acres of very promifmg fugar-cane, to-
tally fpoiled for the feafon. The great live oaks
which had been left fianding about the fields, were
torn to pieces, their limbs lying fcattered over the
ground : and one very large one which flood near
his houfe torn down, which could not have been
done by the united flrength of a thoufand men. But
what is incredible, in the midil of this devaflation
and ruin, providentially no lives were lofl ; although
there were about fixty Negro flaves on the plantr-
tion, and mofl: of them in their huts when the florm
came on, yet they efcaped with their lives, though
feveral wcie badly wounded.

I continued here three days : indeed it took mofi:
of the time of my abode with him, to dry my books
and fpecimens of plant-. But with attention and

care

142 TRAVELS IN

care I faved the greateft number of them ; though
fome were naturally fo dehcate and fragile, that it
was impoffible to recover them. Here is a vafl: body
of land belonging to this eftate ; of high ridges fit
for the culture of corn, indigo, cotton, batatas, &c.
and of low fwamps and marfhes, which when pro-
perly drained and tilled, would be fuitable for rice.
Thefe rich low grounds, when drained and ridged,
are as produdive as the natural high land, and vaflly
more durable, efpecially ior fugar-cane, corn, and
even indigo ; but this branch of agriculture being
more expenfive, thele rich lands are neglefted, and
the upland only is under culture. The farm is fitu-
ated on the Eail fhore of the beautiful Long Lake,
which is above two miles long, and near a mile broad.
This lake communicates with the St. Juan, by the
little river that I afcended, which is about one mile
and an half in length, and thirty or forty yards wide.
The river, as well as the lake, abounds with fifli and
wild fowl of various kinds, and incredible numbers,
efpecially during the winter feafon, when the geefc
and ducks arrive here from the north.

New Smyrna*, a pretty thriving town, is a colo-
ny of Creeks and Minorquines, ellablifhed by Mr.
Turnbull, on the Mufquito river, and very near its

* New Smyrna is built on a high (helly bluff, on the Weft bank of the
South branch of Mufquito river, about ten miles above the capes of that ri-
ver, wliich is about thirty miles North of C^pe Canaveral, Lat. 28. I was
there about ten years ago, wlien the furveyor run the lines or precincfts of
the colony, where there was neither habitation nor cleared field. It was
then a famous orange jjrove, the upper or South promontory of a lidge,
nearly half a mile wide, and Itretching North about forty miles, to the
head of the North branch of the Mufquito, to where the Tomoko river
unites with it, nearly parallel to the fea coaft, and not above two miles
acrofs to the fea beach. All this ridge was then one entire orange grove ,
with live oaks, magnolias, palms, and red bays, and others : I obferved
then, near where New Smyrna now ftands, a fpacious Indian mount and
avenue, which ftood near the bunks of the river : the avenue ran on a ftrait
line back, through the groves, acrofs the ridge, and terrtiinatcd at the verge
of natuirti frtVijiBa* and yonds.

mouth 5

NORTH AMERICA. I 43

mouth J it Is about thirty miles over land from this
farm.

My friend rode with me, about four miles diftancc
from the houfe, to fhew meavaft fountain of warm,
or rather hot mineral water, which iilued from a
high ridge or bank on the river, in a great cove or
bay, a few miles above the mouth of the creek
which I afcended to the lake; it boils up with great
force, forming immediately a vaft circular bafon, ca-
pacious enough for feveral fliallops to ride in, and
runs with rapidity into the river three or four hun-
dred yards diltance. This creek, which is formed
inftantly by this admirable fountain, is wide and
deep enough for a Hoop to fail up into the bafon.
The water is perfectly diaphanous, and here are
continually a prodigious number and variety of tifh ;
they appear as plain as though lying on a table be-
fore your eyes, although many feet deep in the wa-
ter. This tepid water has a moft difagreeable talle,
brafly and vitriolic, and very otienfive to the fmell,
much like bilge water or the wafiiings of a gun-bar-
rel, and is fmelt at a great diftance. A pale bluifh
or pearl coloured coagulum covers every inanimate
fubftance that lies in the water, as logs, limbs of
trees, kc. Alligators and gar were numerous in the
bafon, even at the apertures where the ebullition
emerges through the rocks ; as alfo many other tribes
of fi(h. In the winter fealbn feveral kinds of fifli
and aquatic animals migrate to thefe warm foun-
tains. The forbidding tafte and fmell of thefe w-aters
I'eems to be owing to vitriolic and fulphureous fumes
or vapours ; and thefe being condcnfed, form this
coagulum, which reprefents flakes of pearly clouds
in the clear cerulean waters in the bafon. A charm-
ing orange grove, w ith magnolias, oaks, and palms,

half

J 44 TRAVELS IN

half furrounded this vaft foundin. A delightful
ftream of cool falubrious water iffues from the ridge,
meandering along, and entering the creek jiifl: below
the bafon. I returned in the evening, and next day
fet off again down the river.

My hofpitable friend, after fupplying me with ne-
ceffaries, prevailed on me to accept of the company
and afiiftance of his purveyor, one day's voyage
down the river, whom I was to fet on fliore at a
certain bluff, upwards of twenty miles below, but
noc above one third that dillance by land ; he was
to be out in the forefls one day, on a hunt for tur-
keys.

The current of the river being here confined
within its perpendicular banks, ran brifkly down :
we cheerfully defcended the grand river St. Juan,
enjoying enchanting profpeds.

Before night we reached the deflined port, at a
fpacious orange grove. Next morning we feparated,
and 1 proceeded down the river. The profpeds on
either hand are now pleafing, and I view them at
leifure, and without toil or dread.

Induced by the beautiful appearance of the green
meadows, which open to the Eaiiward, I determined
not to pais this Elylium without a vifit. Behold the
Joud, fonorous, watchful favanna cranes (gius pra-
tenfis) with mufical clangor, in detached fqiiadrons.
They fpread their light elallic fail: at lirft they
move from the earth heavy and flow ; they labour
and beat the denfe air ; they form the line with wide
extended wings, tip to tip ; they all rife and fall to-
gether as onebiid ; now they mount aloft, gradually
wheeling about j each fquadron performs its evolu-
tions

NORTH AMERICA. I45

tlon, encircling the expanfive plains, obferving each
one its own orbit ; then lowering fail, defcend
on the verge of fome glittering lake ; whilft: other
fquadrons, afcending aloft in fpiral circles, bound
on interelting difcoveries, wheel round and double
the promontory, in the filver regions of the clouded
Ikies, where, far from the fcope of eye, they care-
fully obferve the verdant meadows on the borders of
the Eafl Lake ; then contraft their plumes and de-
fcend to the earth, where, after refting a while on fome
verdant eminence, near the flowery border of the
lake, they, with dignified, yet flow, refpedful fteps,
appproach the kindred band, confer, and treat for
habitation ; the bounds and precinils being fettled,
they confederate and take polleflion.

There is inhabiting the low fliores and fvvamps
of this river and the lakes of Florida, as w-ell as
Georgia, a very curious bird*, called by an Indian
name (Epoufkyca) which fignifies in our language
the crying bird. I cannot determine what genus
of European birds to join it with. It is about the
fize of a large domeltic hen : all the body, above
and beneath, is of a dark lead colour, every feather
edged or tipped w'ith white, which makes the bird
appear fpeckled on a near view ; the eye is large
and placed high on the head, which is very promi-
nent ; the bill or beak is five or fix inches in length,
arched or bent gradually downw^ards, in that refpe£t
to be compared to one half of a bent bow ; it is large
or thick near the bafe, comprefled on each fide, and
flatted at top and beneath, which makes it appear
four fquare for more than an inch, where the noftrils
are placed, from whence, to their tips, both man-
dibles are round, gradually lelTening or tapering to

* Taatalus piftus^

L their

146 TRAVELS 11^

their extremities, which are thicker for about half
an inch than immediately above, by which the man-
dibles never fit quite clofe their whole length • the
upper mandible is a fmall matter longer than the
under ; the bill is of a dufky green colour, more
bright and yellowifh about the bafe and angles of
the mouth; the tail is very fhort, and the middle
feather the longcfl ; the others on each fide fliorten
gradually, and are of the colour of the reft of the
bird, only fomewhat darker ; the two fhorteft or
outermofl: feathers are perfectly white, which the
bird has a faculty of flirting out on either fide, as
quick as a flafli of lightning, efpecially when he
hears or fees any thing that diflurbs him, uttering
at the fame inflant an extreme harfli and loud
fhriek : his neck is long and flender ; and his legs
are alio long and bare of feathers above the knee,
like thofe of the bittern, and arc black or of a dark
lead colour.

There are two other fpecies of this genus, which
agree in almoll every particular with the above de-
fcrlpion, except in fize and colour. The firft * of
thele I Ihall mention is a perfect white, except the
prime quill feathers, which are as black as thofe of
a crow ; the bill and legs of a beautiful clear red, as
alfo a fpace clear of feathers about the eyes. The
other fpecies -f is black on the upper fide, the bread
and belly white, and tlie legs and beak as white as
fiTtovr. Both thefe fpecies are about' half the fize of
the crying bird. They fly in large flocks or fqua-
drons, evening and morning, to and from their feed-
ing place or roolfs ; both ipecies are called Spanifii
cuilewi: thefe and the crying bird feed chiefly on

* T.-.r.talus al'bui. Numinusalbus. Cat.

+ Tantalus vcrricolor. Numinus fufcus, Cat.

Cray

NORTH AMERICA. 147

Cray fifh, whofe cells they probe, and with their
flrong pinching bills drag them out : all the three
fpecies are efteemed excellent food.

It is a pleafing fight at times of high winds and
heavy thunder Itorms, to obferve the numerous fqua-
drons of thefe Spanifli curlews driving to and fro,
turning and tacking about, high up in the air, when
by their various evolutions in the ditierent and op-
pofite currents of the wind high in the clouds, their
fdvery white plumage gleams and fparkles like the
brighteft cryflal, rellecling the fun-beams that dart
upon them between the dark clouds.

Since I have turned my obfervations upon the
birds of this country, 1 fliall notice another very
lingular one, though already mod curioufly and
exadly figured by Catefby, which feems to be
nearly allied to thofe before mentioned ; I mean
the bird which he calls the wood pelican*. This
is a large bird, perhaps near three feet high when
(landing erect. The bill is very long and ftrong,
bending with a moderate curve from the bafe to
the tip ; the upper mandible is the largeft, and re-
ceives the edges of the nether one into its whole
length ; the edges are very Iharp and firm ; the
whole of a dark afli or horn colour ; the forehead
round the bafe of the beak and fides of the head is
bare of feathers, and of a dark greenifli colour,
in which fpace is placed the eyes, which are very
large ; the remainder of the head and neck is of a
nut brown colour j the back of a light bluifli grey ;
upper part of the wings, bread, and belly, almoft
white, with fome flight daflies of grey ; the quill-
feathers and tail, which are very fhort, are of a dark
Hate colour, almoft black ; the legs, which are very

* T;intalus lociJator. Lir.n.

L 2 long,

J4^ TRAVELS IN

long, and bare of feathers a great length above
the knees are of a dark dull greenifh colour : it
has a fmall bag or pouch under its throat : it feeds
on ferpents, young alligators, frogs, and other rep-
tiles.

This folitary bird does not aflbciate in flocks, but
is generally feen alone ; commonly near the banks
of great rivers, in vaft marflies or meadows, efpe-
cially fuch as are caufed by inundations ; and alfo
in the vad deferted rice plantations : he flands
alone on the topmoft limb of tali dead cyprefs trees,
his neck contrafted or drawn in upon his ftioulders,
and beak refting like a long fey the upon his breafl: :
in this penfive pollure and foHtary fituation, it
looks extremely grave, forrowful, and melancholy, as
if in the deeped thought. They are never feen on
the fait fea coaft, and yet are never found at a great
diftance from it. I take this bird to be of a different
genus from the tantalus, and perhaps it approaches
the neared to the Egyptian ibis of any other bird yet
known.

There are two fpecies of vultures * in thefe re-
gions, I think not mentioned in hidory : the fird we
fliall delcribe is a beautiful bird, near the fize of
a turkey buzzard f , but his wings are much (horter,
and confequently he falls" greatly below that admi-
rable bird in fail. J diall call this bird the painted
vulture. The bill is long and draight almoft to
the point, when it is hooked or bent fuddenly down
and fnarp ; the head and neck bare of feathers
r.early down to the domach, when the feathers be-
gin to cover the ikin, and foon become long and
of a foft texture, forming a ruft' or tippet, in which
ihe bird by contrai:^ing his neck can hide that as

» Vultur fa era- + Vultiir aurei.

well

NORTH AMERICA. I49

well as his head ; the bare fkin on the neck appears
loofe and wrinkled, and is of a deep bright yellow
colour ; intermixed with coral red ; the hinder part
of the neck is nearly covered with fliort, (till hair ;
and the ikin of this part of the neck is of a dun-pur-
ple colour, gradually beconiing red as it approaches
the yellow of the fides and fore part. The crown of
the head is red ; there are lobbed lappets of a red-
difli orange colour, which lie on the bafe ot the
upper mandible. But what is fmguhir, a large por-
tion of the Itomach hangs down on the hreali of the
bird, in the likenefs of a fack or half wallet, and
feems to be a duplicature of the craw, which is na-
ked and of a reddifli flelh colour ; this is partly con-
cealed by the feathers of the brcall, unlefs when it
is loaded with food (which is commonly, I believe,
roafted reptiles), and then it appears prominent.
The plumage of the bird is generally v^'hite or cream
colour, except the quill feathers of the wings and
two or three rows of the coverts, which are of a beau-
tiful dark brown ; the tail, which is large and white,
is tipped with this dark brown or black ; the legs
and feet of a clear white ; the eye is encircled with
a gold coloured iris ; the pupil black.

The Creeks or Mufcogulges conftrucl their royal
ilandard of the tail feather of this bird, which is call-
ed by a name fignifying the eagle's tail : this they
carry with them when they go to battle, but then it
is painted with a zone of red within the brown tips ;
and in peaceable negociations it is difplayed new,
clean, and white : this ftandard is held moll facred
by them on all occafions, and is conftrutled and or-
namented with great ingenuity. Thefe birds feldom
appear but when the defcrts are fct on fire (which
happens almoft every day throughout the year, in

fome

150 TRAVELS IN

fome part or other, by the Indians, for the purpofe
of roufing the game, as alfo by the lightning : ) when
they are leen at a diftance fearing on the wing, ga-
thering from every quarter, and gradually ap-
proaching the burnt plains, where they alight upon
the ground yet fmoking with hot embers : they ga-
ther up the roafled ferpents, frogs, and lizards,
filling their facks with them ; at this time a perfon
may fhoot them at pleafure, they not being willing
to quit the feaft, and indeed feeming to brave all
danger.

The other fpecies may very properly be called
the coped vulture, and is by the inhabitants called
the carrion crow. As to bulk or weight, he is near-
ly equal to either of the others before mentioned.
His wings are not long and fliarp pointed, but broad
and round at their extremities, having a clumfy ap-
pearance ; the tail is remarkably fhort, which he
fpreads like a little fan, when on the wing. They
have a heavy laborious flight, flapping their wings,
then fail a little and then flap their wings again,
and fo on as if recovering themfelves when falling.
The beak is very long and flrnight, until it makes
a fudden hook at the point, in the manner of the
other vultures. The whole bird is of a fable or
mourning colour ; the head and neck down to the
breafl is bare of feathers, and the fkin wrinkled ;
this unfeathered fkin is of a deep livid purple, ap-
pearing black and thinly fet with fhort black hair.
He has a ruff or tippet of long foft feathers, like a
collar, bearing on his breafl, in which he can con-
ceal his neck and head at pleafure.

Having agreeably diverted away the intolerable
heats of fultry noon in fruitful fragrant groves, with
renewed vigour I again refume my fylvan pilgrimage.

The

NORTH AMERICA.

151

The afternoon and evening moderately warm, and
exceeding pieafant views from the river and its va-
ried fhores. I palled by Battle lagoon and the bluff,
•Avithout much oppofition ; but the crocodiles were
already affembling in the pafs. Before night I
x:ame to, at a charming orange grove bluff, on the
Eail fide of the little lake ; and after fixing my camp
on a high open fituation, and colleding a plenty of
dry wood for fuel, I had time to get fome fine trout
for fuppcr, and joyfully return to my camp.

What a mofl beautiful creature is this fifli before
me ! gliding to and fro, and figuring in the Hill
clear waters, with his orient attendants and alfo-
ciates : the yeliow bream * or fun fifh. It is about
eight inches in length, nearly of flie fliape of the
trout, but rather larger in proportion over the
Ihoulders and breall : the mouth large, and the
branchiollega opens wide ; the whole fifli is of a
pale gold (or burnilhed brafs) colour, darker on the
back and upper fides ; the fcales are of a propor-
tionable fize, regularly placed, and every where
variably powdered with red, rulfet, filver, blue, and
green fpecks, fo laid on the fcales as to appear like
real dull or opaque bodies, each apparent particle
being fo projetled by light and fliadc, and the va-
rious attitudes of the filh, as to deceive the fight;
for in reality nothing can be of a more plain and
poliflied furface than the fcales and whole body of
the fifli. The fins are of an orange colour : and,
like all the fjx'cies of the bream, the ultimate angle
of the branchioftcga terminates by a little fpatula^
the extreme end of which reprefents a crefcent of
ihe finell: ultramarine blue, encircled with filver and

* Cyprinus coronurius.

velvet

152 TRAVELS IN

velvet black, like the eye in the feathers of a pea-
cock's train. He is a fifh of prodigious (Irength
and aflivity in the water ; a warrior in a gilded coat
of mail ; and gives no reft or quarter to fmall fifh,
•which he preys upon. They are delicious food and
in great abundance.

The orange grove is but narrow, betv/ixt the
river banks and ancient Indian fields, where there
are evident traces of the habitations of the ancients,
furrounded with groves of live oak, laurel magno-
lia, zanthoxylon, liquidambar, and others.

How harmonious and foothing is this native fyl-
van mufic now at ftill evening ! inexprellibly tender
are the refponfive cooings of the innocent dove, in
the fragrant zanthoxylon groves, and the variable
and tuneful warblings of the nonpareil, with the
more fprightly and elevated ftrains of the blue lin-
net and golden iderus : this is indeed harmony,
even amidft the incelfant croaking of the frogs : the
fliades of filent night are made more cheerful, with
the fhrill voice of the whip-poor-will * and active
mock-bird.

My fituation high and airy: a brifk and cool breeze
fteadily and inceflantly pafling over the clear waters
of the lake, and fluttering over me through the fur-
rounding groves, wings its way to the moon-light
favannas, while I repofe on my fweet and healthy
couch of the foft* tillandfia ufnea-adfcites, and the
latter gloomy and ftill hours of night pafs rapidly
away as it were in a moment. I arofe, ftrength-

* Caprimulgus rufus, called chuck-wiU's-vridow, from a fancied re-
femblance of his notes to thefe words : it inhabits the maritime parts of
Carolina and Florida, and is more than twice the iize of the night hawk or
whip-poor-will.

ened

L

n3

^r/a (rr^j/i'/f<7,^

Caulis . t^itt 1 a^'natiJ'
Foliis. Linfarihtncf^olaii-r

^I'tlf Tptirnff'ort

NORTH AMERICA. J53

ened and cheerful, in the mornmg. Having fome
repairs to make in the tackle of my veflel, I paid my
tirll attention to them ; which being accompliflied,
my curiofity prompted me to penetrate the grove
and view the illumined plains.

What a beautiful difplay of vegetation is here
before me ! feemingly unlimited in extent and va-
riety : how the dew-drops twinkle and play upoa
the fight, trembling on the tips of the lucid, green
favanna, fparkling as the gem that flames on the
turban of the ealtern prince. See the pearly tear*
rolling off the buds of the expanding Granadilla * ;
behold the azure fields of cerulean Ixea ! what can
equal the rich golden flowers of the Canna lutea,
which ornament the banks of yon ferpenriuc rivulet,
meandering over the meadows ; the almolt endlefs
\'^rieties of the gay Phlox, that enamel the fwelling
green banks, alTociated with the purple Verbena co-
rymbofa, Viola, pearly Gnaphalium, and filvery Per-
dicium ? How fantaftical looks the libertine Clito-
ria, mantling the flirubs, on the villas Ikirting the
groves ! My morning excurfion finifhed, I returned
to my camp, brcakfaftcd, then went on board
my boat, gently defcended the noble river, and
palTed by feveral openings of extenfive plains and
meadows, environing the eaft lake, charming be-
yond compare. At evening I came to at a good
harbour, under the high banks of the river, and
refled during the night amidlf the fragrant groves,
expofed to the court ant breezes from the river :
here 1 made ample colledions of fpecimens and grow-
ing roots of curious vegetables, which kept me fully
employed the greatefl: part of the day ; and in the
evening arrived at a charming fpot on the eaft

* raffiflora incarnaca, called May-Apple.

bank.

54

TRAVELS INT

bank, which I had marked on my afcent up the ri-
ver, where 1 made fome addition to my collec-
tions ; and the next day I employed myfelf in the
fame manner, putting into fhore frequently, at con-
venient places, which I had noticed ; and in the
evening arrived again at the upper ftore, where I
had the pleafure of finding my old friend, the trader,
in good health and cheerful, and his affairs in a
profperous way. There were alfo a fmall party of
Indians here, who had lately arrived with their
hunts to purchafe goods. I continued a few days at
this poft, fearching its environs for curious vegeta-
ble produdions, coUeding feeds and planting grow-
ing roots in boxes, to be tranfpofted to the lower
trading houfe.

Now, having procured neceflaries to accommo-
date me on my voyage down to the lower flore, I
bid adieu to my old friend and benefactor, Mr. Job
"VViggens, embarked alone on board my little for-
tunate velTel, and fet fail. I chofe to follow the
eaflernmofl: channel of the river to the Great Lake,
becaufe it ran by high banks and bluffs of the eaftern
main the greateft part of the diftance, which af-
forded me an opportunity of obferving a far greater
variety of natural fubjects, than if I had taken the
weftern or middle channel, which flowed through
fwamps ^nd marlhes.

At evening I arrived at Cedar Point, my former
fafe and pleafant harbour, at the eaft cape of the
Great Lake, where I had noticed fome' curious
flirubs and plants ; here I relied, and on the fmooih
and gentle current launch again into the Httle ocean
of Lake George, meaning now, on my return, to
coaft his weftern fliores in fearch of niew beauties in
tfee bounteous kingdom of Flora.

J was

XORTH AMERICA: I55

T was however induced to deviate a little from
my intended courfe, and touch at the inchantin^
little Ifle of Palms. This delightful fpot, planted by
nature, is almofl an entire grove of Palms, with a
few pyramidal Magnolias, Live Oaks, golden Orange,
and the animating Zanthoxylon. What a beautiful
retreat is here ! bleffed inviolatcd fpot of earth,
rifmg from the limpid waters of the lake : its fra-
grant groves and blooming lawns Inverted and pro-
tecled by encircling ranks of the Yucca gloriofa.
A fafcinating atmofphere furrounds this blifsful gar-
den ; the balmy Lantana, ambrofial Citra, perfumed
Crinum, perfpiring their mingled odours, wafted
through Zanthoxylon groves. I at laft: broke away
from the enchanting fpot, and itepped onboard my
boat, hoiifed fail, and foon approached the coafl: of
the main, at the cool eve of day : then traverfmg a
capacious femicircular cove of the lake, verged by
low, cxtenfive g^ally meadows, I at length by duflv
made a fafe harbour, in a little lagoon, on the fea-
fliore or ftrand of a bold fandy point, which de-
fcended from the furf of the lake. This was a
clean fandy beach, hard and firm by the beatingr
furf, when the wind fcts from the eaft coafl:. I
drew up my light veflel on the Hoping fhorc, that
Ihe might be fafe from the beating waves in cafe of
a fudJen dorm of wind In the night. A few yards
back ihe land was a little elevated, and over-
grown with thickets of (hrubs and low tlees, con-
filting chiefly of Zanthoxylon, Olea Americana,
Ranmus frangula, Sideroxylon, Morus, Ptelea, Ha-
lefia, Querci, Myrica cerifera, and others. Tliefe
groves were but low, yet fufhcientlv high to fliel-
ter me from the chilling dews ; and being but a
few yards diftance from my veflel, here I fixed my
encampment. A brilk wind arinng from the lake,

drove

156 TRAVELS IN

drove away the clouds of mufqultoes into the thick-
ets. I now, with difficulty and induftry, colleiled
a fufficiency of dry wood to keep up a light during
the night, and to roafl fome trout which I had caught
when descending the river : their heads I flewed in
the juice of Oranges, which, with boiled rice, af-
forded me a wholefome and delicious fupper : I hung
the remainder of my broiled fifh on the fnags of
fome flirubs over my head. I at laft, after recon-
noitring my habitation, returned, fpread abroad my
fkins and blanket upon the clean fands by my fire
fide, and betook myfelf to repofe.

How glorious the powerful fun, minifter of the
Mod High in the rule and government of this earth,
leaves our hemifphere, retiring from our fight
beyond the weftern forefts ! I behold with gra-
titude his departing: fmiles, tinging the fleecy rofe-
ate clouds, now riding far away on the eaftern ho-
rizon ; behold they vanifli from fight in the azure
ikies I

All now filent and peaceable, I fuddenly fell
afleep. At midnight I awake ; when, raifing my
head ereft, I find myfelf alone in the wildernefs of
Florida, on the fliores of Lake George. Alone in-
deed, but under the care of the Almighty, and pro-
tected by the invifible hand of my guardian angel.

When quite awake, I ftarted at the heavy tread
of fome animal ; the dry limbs of trees upon the
ground crack under his feet ; the clofe fhrubby thick-
ets part and bend under him as he rufhes off.

I rekindle my fleepy fire ; lay in contact the '
exfoliated fmoaking brands damp with the dew of
heaven.

The

I

NORTH AMERICA. I57

The bright flame afcends and ilUimlnates the
ground and groves around me.

When looking up, I found my fifli carried off,
though I had thought them fafe on the Ihrubs, jult
over my head ; but their fcent, carried to a great
diftance by the damp nocturnal breezes, I fuppofe
urere too powerful attraftions to refift.

Perhaps it may not be time loft, to reft a while
here, and refled on the unexpeded and unaccount-
able incident, uhich however pointed out to me an
extraordinary deliverance or proteclion of my life,
from the rapacious wolf that ftole my fifli from over
my head.

How much eafier and more eligible might it have
been for him to have leaped upon my breaft in the
dead of fleep, and torn my throat, which would
have inftantly deprived me of Hfe, and then glutted
his ftomach for the prefent with my warm blood,
and dragged off my body, which would have made
a feaft afterwards for him and his howling: affociates !
I fay, would not this have been a wifer ftep, than
to have made protracted and circular approaches,
and then after, by chance, efpying the fifh over
my head, with the greateft caution and fdence rear
up, and take them off the fnags one by one, then
make off with them, and that fo cunningrly as not
to awaken m-e until he had fairly accomplilhed his
purp>ofe ?

The morning being clear, I fat fail with a fa-
vourite breeze, coafting along the fhores ; when
on a fudden the waters became tranfparent, and
difcovered the fandy bottom, and the feveral na-
tions of fifh, pairing and repalling each other. Fol-
lowing

130 TRAVELS IN

lowing this courfe I was led to the cape of the little
river, defcending from Six Mile Springs, and mean-
dering fix miles from its fource through green mea-
dows. I entered this pellucid dream, failing over
the heads of innumerable fquadrons of fifli, which, al-
though many feet deep in the water, were diftinftly
to be feen. I pafled by charming iflets of fiourifli-
ing trees, as Palm, Red Bay, Afh, Maple, Nyfla, and
others. As I approached the diftant high foreft on
the main, the river widened, floating fields of the
green Piftia furrounded me, the rapid ftream wind-
ing throucrh them. What an allurine^ fcene was now
before me ! A vafl bafon or Httle lake of cryltal
waters, half encircled by fwelling hills, clad with
orange and odoriferous lUieiuni groves, the tower-
ing Magnoha, itfelf a grove, and the exalted Palm,
as if confcious of their tranfcendant glories, toffed
about their lofty heads, painting, with mutable
ihades, the green floating fields beneath. The fo-
cial prattling coot enrobed in blue, and the fqueel-
ing water-hen, with wings half-expanded, tripped
after each other over the watery mirrour.

1 put in at an ancient landing-place, which is a
Hoping afcent to a level graflly plain, an old In-
dian field. As I intended to n)ake my moft confi-
derable colleftions at tliis place, I proceeded im-
mediately to fix my encampment but a few yards
from my fafe harbour, where I fecurely faftened
mv boat to a Live Oak which overfliadowed my
port.

After collecling a good quantity of fire-wood,
as it was about tlie middle of the afternoon, I re-
iolved to reconnoitre the ground about my encamp-
xnent. Having penetrated the groves next to me,
1 came to the open forefls, confifling of exceed-
ingly

NORTH AMERICA. 159

ingly tall flraight Pines (Pinus Paluftris) that iftood
at a confiderable diftance from each other, through
which appeared at N. W. an almoft unlimited plain
of graliy favannas, embellilhed with a chain of ihal-
low ponds, as far as the fight could reach. Here
is a fpecies of Magnoha that aflbciatcs with the
Gordonia lafianthus ; it is a tali tree, fixty or eighty-
feet in heighth ; the trunk ftraight ; its head termi-
nating in the form of a fharp cone ; the leaves are
oblong, lanceolate, of a fine deep green, and glau-
cous beneath ; the flowers are large, pretty white
and extremely fragrant ; with refpcfl to its flowers
and leaves it differs very little from the Magnolia
glauca. The filvery whitenefs of the leaves of this
tree had a ftriking and pleafing effedt on the fight,
as it flood amidft the dark green of the Ouercus
dentata, Nyffa fylvatica, Nyf. aquatica, Gordonia
lafianthus, and many others of the fame hue.
The tall afpiring Gordonia lafianthus, which now
Hood in my view in all its fplendour, is every way
deferving of our admiration. Its thick foliage, of
a dark green colour, is flowered over with large
milk-white fragrant bioffoms, on long flender elaf-
tic penuncles, at the extremities of its numerous
branches, from the bofom of the leaves, and renewed
every morning ; and that in fuch incredible pro-
fufion, that the tree appears filvered over with them,
and the ground beneath covered with the fallen,
flowers. It at the fame time continually puflies
forth new twigs, with young buds on them ; and
in the winter and fpring, the third year's leaves, now
partly concealed by tlie new and perfect ones, are
gradually changing colour, from green to golden
yellow, from that to a fcarlet, from fcarlct to crim-
f©n ; and laflly to a brownifh purple, and :hen fall

to

l6o TRAVELS IN

to the ground. So that the Gordonia lafianthui
may be faid to change and renew its garments
every morning throughout the year ; and every day
appears with unfading luftre. And moreover, after
the general flowering is part, there is a thin fuc-
ccllion of fcattering bloflbms to be feen, on fome
parts of the tree, almon: every day throughout the
remaining months, until the floral feafon returns
again. Its natural fituation, when growing, is on
the edges of fliallow ponds, or low wet grounds on
rivers, in a fandy foil, the neareft to the water of
any other tree, fo that in droughty feafons its long
ferpenline roots which runs near or upon the furface
of the earth, may reach into the water. When
the tree has arrived to the period of perfed magni-
tude, it is fixty, eighty, or an hundred feet high,
forming a pyramidal head. The wood of old trees
when fawn into plank is defervedly admired in ca-
binet-work orfurniture ; it has a cinnamon coloured
ground, marbled and veined with many colours :
the inner bark is ufed for dying a reddifh or forrel
colour J it imparts this colour to wool, cotton,
linen, and drefled deer-fldns, and is highly efteemed
by tanners.

The Zamia pumila, the Erythryna, coralloden-
drum, and the Cadus opunfia, grow here in great
abundance and perfeftion. The firll grows in the
open pine forefts, in tufts or clumps, a large co-
nical ftrobile diiclofing its large coral red fruit,
which appears fingularly beautiful amidfl the deep
green fern-like pinnated leaves.

The Erythryna carollodendrum is fix or eight
feet high ; its prickly limbs ftride and wreath about
with fingular freedom, and its fpikes of crimfon
flowers have a fine effe(^ amidfl the delicate foliage.

the

I

NORTH AMERICA. l6l

The Caftus opuntia is very tall, ered, and large'
and ftrong enough to bear the weight of a man :
fome are feven or eight feet high : the whole plant
or tree feems to be formed of great oval comprcfled
leaves or articulations ; thofe near the earth conti-
nually increafe, magnify and indurate as the tree
advances in years, and at length lofe the bright
green colour and glofly fur face of their youth, ac-
quiring a ligneous quality, with a whitifh fcabrous
cortex. Every part of the plant is nearly deftitute
of aculea, or thofe fafcicles of barbed brillles which
are in fuch plenty on the common dwarf Indian Fig.
The cochineal infeds are feeding on the leaves.
The female of this infetfl is very large and flefhy, co-
vered with a fine white filk or cottony web, which
feels always moill or dewy, and feems defigned by
nature to protect them from the violent heat of the
fun. The males are very^fmall in comparifon to the
females, and but very few in number : they each
have two oblong pellucid wings. The large poly-
petalous flowers are produced on the edges of the
laft year's leaves, are of a fine fplendid yellow, and
are fucceeded by very large pear-fhaped fruit, of a
dark livid purple when ripe : its pulp is charged
with a juice of a fine tranfparent crimfon colour,
and has a cool pleafant talte, fomewhat like that of a
pomegranate. Soon after eating this fruit, the uiine
becomes of the fame crimfon colour, which very
much furprifes and afi'rights a ftranger, but is attend-
ed with no other ill confequence ; on the contrary, it
is efteemed wholefome, though powerfully diuretic.

On the left hand of thofe open forefts and favan-
nas, as wc turn our eyes louihward, fouth-wefh
and wefl, we behold an endlefs wild defert, the
upper Itratum of the earth of which is a fine white
fand, with fmall pebbles, and at fome diftance ap-

M pears

idl TRAVELS 13*

pears entirely covered with low trees and fhrubs of
▼arious kinds, and of equal heighth, as dwarf
Sweet Bay, (Laurus Borbonia) Olea AmericanayMo-
rus rubra, Myrica cerifera, Ftelea, JEfculus pavia,
Quercus Ilex, CX glandifer, Q^ maritima, foliis
cuneiformibus oblolete trilobis minoribus, CX pu-
mila, Rhamnus frangula, Halelia diptera, k terrap-
tera, Caffine, Ilex aquifolium, Callicarpa John-
fonia, Erythryna corallodendrum, Hibifcus^ fpinifex,
Zanthoxylon, Hopea tindoria, Sideroxylum, with
a multitude of other fhrubs, many of which were
new to me, and fome of them admirably beautiful
and fmgular. One of them particularly engaged my
notice, which, from its frudification, I took to be
a fpecies of Cacalia. It is an evergreen Ilirub, about
fix or eight feet high ; the leaves are generally
fomewhat cuneiform, fleihy, and of a pale whitilh
green, both furfaces being covered with a hoary
pubefcence and veficulse, that when preifed feels
clammy, and emits an agreeable fcent ; the afcend*
ent branches terminate with large tufts of corymbes
of role-coloured flowers, of the fame agreeable
fcent ; thefe clufters of flowers, at a difl:ance, look ,
*ike a large Carnation or fringed Poppy flower (Syn-
gencha Polyg. ^qul. Linn.), Cacalia heterophylla,
foliis cuneiformibus, carnofis, papil. vifcidis.

Here is alfo another fpecies of the fame genus,
but it does not grow quite fo large ; the leaves are
fmaller> of yet duller green colour, and the flowers
are of a pale rofe ; they arc both valuable evergreens.

The trees and (hrubs which cover thefe extenfive
wilds, are about five or fix feet high, and feem to
L>e kept down by the annual firing of the deferts^
rather than the barrennefs of the foil, as I faw a
few large 1-ive Oaks, Mulberry trees and Hicco-

rica.

NORTH AMERICA. 1 63

ries, which evidently have withflood the devouring
flames. Thefe adjoining vild plains, fbrefts, and
favannas, are fituated lower than the hilly groves on
the banks of the lake and river ; but vhat Ihould be
the natural caufe of it I cannot even pretend to
conjefture, unlefs one may liippofe that thoie high
hills, which we call bluti's, on the banks of this
great river and its lakes, and which fupport thofe
magnificent groves and high forefls, and are gene-
rally compofed of fliells and fand, were thrown up
to their prefent height by the winds and waves,
when the bed of the river was nearer the level of the
prefent furface of the earth ; but then, to reft upon
luch a fuppofition, would be admitting that the
Xvaters were heretofore in greater quantities than at
this time, or that their prefent channels and recepta-
cles are worn deeper into the earth.

I now dire<^ed my fteps towards my encamp-
ment, in a ditferent diredlion. I feated myfelf
upon a fwelling green knoll, at the head of the cryi-
tal bafon. Near me, on the left, was a point or
projeclicn of an entire grove of the aromatic lUiciuni
Floridanum ; on my right and all around behind
me, was a fruitful Orange grove, with Palms and
Magnolias interfperfed ; in front, juft under my
feet, was the inchanting and amazing cryftal foun-
tain, which incefl'antly threw up, from dark, rocky
caverns below, tons of water every minute, form-
ing a bafon, capacious enough for large Ihallops
to ride in, and a creek of four or five feet depth
of water, and near twenty yards over, which
meanders fix miles through green meadows, pour-
ing its Hmpid waters into the great Lake George,
where they feem to remain pure and unmixed. A-
bout twenty yards from the upper edge of the bafon,

M 2 and

164 TRAVELS IN

and directly oppofite to the mouth or outlet of the
creek, is a continual and amazing ebullition, where
the waters are thrown up in fuch abundance and
amazing force, as to jet and fwell up two or three
feet above the common furface: white land and fmall
particles of ibells are thrown up with the waters,
near to the top, when they diverge from the centre,
fubfide with the expanding flood, and gently fmk
again, forming a large rim or funnel round about
the aperture or mouth of the fountain, which is a
valt perforation through a bed of rocks, the ragged
points of which are projedted out on every fide.
Thus far I know to be matter of real fa6l, and I «
have related it as near as I could conceive or exprefs
myfelf. But there are yet remaining fcenes inex.-
preilibly admirable and pleanng.

Behold, for Inflance, a vafl circular expanfe be-
fore you, the waters of v/hich are fo extremely
tlear as to be abiblutely diaphanous or tranfparent
as the ether ; the margin of the bafon ornamented
v.'ith a great variety of fruiifal and floriferous trees,
fiirubs and plants, the pendant golden Orange,
dancing on the furface of the pellucid waters, the
balmy air, vibrating with the melody of the merry
birds, tenants of the encircling aromatic grove.

At the fame inflant innumerable bands of fifh
are feen, fome clothed in the niofl brilliant colours ;
ihe voracious crocodile flretched along at full length,
as the great trunk of a tree in fize ; the devouring
garfilh, inimical trout, and all the varieties of
gilded painted bream ; the barbed catlifh, dread-
ed {ling-ray, Ikate, and flounder, fpotted bafs,
flieeps head and ominous drum ; all in their fepa-
Tate bandi. and communities, with free and unfuf-

picious

NORTH AMERICA. j€^

picious Intercourfe performing their evolutions :
xhere are no figns of enmity, no attempt to devoiir
each other ; the diftereut bands feem peaceably and
complaifantly to move a little afide, as it were to
make room for others to pafs by.

But behold yet fomething far more admirable,
fee whole armies defcending into an abyfs, into the
moiith of the bubbling fountain : they difappear! are
they gone for ever ? is it veal ? I raile my eyes with
terror and aftonifhment ; i look down again to
the fountain with anxietv, when behold them as it
were emerging from the blue ether of another world,
apparently at a vail diltanre ; at their firft appear-
ance, no bigger than flies or minnows ; now gra-
dually enlarging, their brilliant colours begin to
paint the fluid.

Now they come forward rapidly, and inflantly
emerge, with the elaflic expanding column of cr\'f-
talline waters, into the circular baion or luunel : ^cr.
now how gently they rife, fome upright, others ob-
liquely, or feem to lie as it were on their fides, fuf-
fering themfelves to be gently lifted or borne up by
the expanding fluid towards the furlace, failing or
floating like butterflies in the cerulean ether ; then
again they as gently defcend, diverge and move oil ;
when they rally, form again, and rejoin their kin-
dred tribes.

This amazing and delightful fcene, though real,
appears at tirll but as a piece of excellent paint-
ing ; there feems no mjedium; vou imagine the
picture to be within a few inches of your eyes, and
that you may without the lall difficulty touch any
one of the fi(h, or put vour finger upon the croco-
dile's eye, when it really is twenty or thirty feet
under water.

And

1 66

TRAVELS IN

And although this paradife of fifh may feem to
exhibit a juft reprefentation of the peaceable and
happy (late of nature which exifted before the fall,
yet in reality it is a mere reprefentation ; for the
nature of the fifh is the fame as if they were in Lake
George or the river ; but here the water or element
in which they live and move, is fo perfectly clear
and tranfparent, it places them ail on an equality
with regard to their ability to injure or efcape from
one another; (as all river fifh of prey, or fuch as
feed upon each other, as well as the unwieldy cro-
codile, take their prey by furprife ; fecreting
themfelves under covert or in ambufh, until an op-
portunity ofters, when they rufh fuddenly upon
them :) but here is no covert, no ambufh ; here the
trout freely pafTes by the very nofe of the alligatorj
and laughs in his face, and the bream by the trout.

But what is really furprifing is, that the confciouf-
nefs of each other's fafety, or fome other latent
caufe, ihould fo abfolutely alter their conduct, for
here is not the leafl attempt made to injure or dif-
turb one another.

The fun pafTmg below the horizon, and night ap-
proaching, I rofe from my feat, and proceeding on
arrived at my camp, kindled my fire, fupped and
repofed peaceably. Rifing early, I employed the
fore part of the day in colleding fpecimens of grow-
ing roots and feeds. In the afternoon, I left thefe
Elyfian fprings and the aromatic groves, and brilkly
defcended the pellucid little river, re-entering the
great lake. The wind being gentle and fair for
Mount Royal, I hoifted fail, and iuccefslully crofling
the N. weft bay, about nine miles, Qame to at
Rocky Point, the weft cape or promontory, as we
enter the river defcending towards Mount Royal :

thefe

NORTH AMERICA. l6j

theffe rocks are horizontal flabs or flat mafTcs, rifmg
out of the lake two or three feet above its furface,
and feem an aggregate conipofition or concrete of
fand, fhells, and calcareous cement, of a dark gray
or dufky colour. The ftones are hard and firm
enough for buildings, and ferve very well for light
hfind mill-ftones ; and when calcined afford a coarfe
lime : they lie in vail horizontal mafles upon one
another, from one to two or three feet in thicknefs, and
are eafily feparated and broken to any fize or lorm,
for the purpofe of building. Rocky Point is an
airy, cool, and ddlghttnl fituation, commandint^
a moft ample and pleafing prolpct^t of the lake and
its environs ; but here being no wood, I re-
embarked and failed down a little farther to the
ifland' in the bay, where I went on fliore at a mag-
nificent grove of Magnolias and Oranges, defirous
of augmenting my colledtions. I arofe early next
morning, and after ranging the groves and favannas,
returned, embarked again, and defcending, called
at Mount Royal, where I enlarged my collecl:ions ;
and bidding adieu to the gentleman and lady who
refided there, and who treated me with great hof-
pitaUty on my afcent up the river, arrived in the
evening at the lower trading houfe.

CHAP.

l68 TRAVELS IN

c H A P. vr.

Om my return from my voyage to the upper flore,
I underftood from the trading company defigned for
Cufcowilla, that they had been very aftive in their
preparations, and would be ready to fet off in a few
days. I therefore availed myfelf of the little time
allowed me to fecure and preferve my collections,
againft the arrival of the trading fchooner, which
was hourly expected, that every thing might be in
readinefs to be fhipped on board her, in cafe (he
fhould load again and return for Savanna during my
abfence.

Every neceffary being now in readinefs, early on
a fine morning we proceeded, attended by four
men under the conducl of an old trader, whom Mr.
M'Latche had delegated to treat with the Cowkeeper
and other chiefs of Cufcowilla, on the fubject of re-
eftabliihing the trade. Sec. agreeable to the late
treaty of St. Auguftine.

For the firfl: four or five miles we travelled weft-
ward, over a perfectly level plain, which appeared
before and on each fide of us, as a charming green
meadow, thinly plantid with low fpreadi ng Pine
trees (P. paluftris). The upper flratum of the earth
is a fine white cryftalline fand, the very upper fur-
face of which being mixed or incorporated wirh
the afhes of burnt vegetables, renders it of fufii-
cient ftrength or fertility to clothe itfelf perfectly
with a very great variety of gralfes, herbage, and
remarkably flow Ihrubs, together with a very dwarl
Species of Palmetto (Corypha pumila ftipit. ferratis).

Of

>fOP.TH AMERICA. l6g

Of the low fhrubs, many were new to nie and of a
very pleafing appearance, particularly a fpecies of
annona (annona Incarna, tloribus grandiorilius pani-
culatis) ; this grows three, four, or five iett high,
the leaves fomewhat cuneiform or broad lanceolate,
attenuating down to the petiole, of a pale or light
green colour, covered with a pubefcence or Ihort
tine down ; the flowers very large, perfcdly white
and fweet fcented, many connected together on
large loofe panicles or fpikes ; the fruit ot the fize
and form of a fmall cucumber, the fkin or exterior
furface fomewhat rimofe or fcabrous, containing a
yellow pulp of the confidence of a hard cufiard,
and very delicioUvS, wholefome food. This feems a
variety, if not the fame that I firft remarked, grow-
ing on the Alatamaha near Fort Barrington, Char-
lotia, and many other places in Georgia and Eall
Florida ; and I obferved here in plenty, the very
dwarf decumbent annona, with narrow leaves, and
various flowers already noticed at Alatamaha (an-
nona pigmsca). Here is alfo abundance of the beau-
tiful little dwarf kalmia ciliata, already defcribed.
The white berried empetrum, a very pretty ever-
green, grows here on fomewhat higher and drier
knolls, in large patches or clumps, aflTociatcd with
olea Americana, feveral fpecies of dwarf querci
(oaks), vaccinium, Gordonialafianthus, Andromeda
ferruginca, and a very curious and beautiful flirub
which feems allied to the rhododendron, cafiine,
rhamnus frangula, Andromeda liitida. Sec. which
being of a dark green foliage, diveifify and enliven
the landfcape : but what appears very extraordinary,
is to behold here, deprefied and degraded, the glo-
rious pyramidal magnolia grandiflora, aflbciatcd
amonglt thefe vile dwarfs, and even fome of them
rifing above it, though not five feet high j yet Hill

Ihowing

rTC TRA\'«LS IN

fhowing 1/irpre, beautiful and expanfive wliite fra-
j;rant blolTbins, and great heavy cones, on (lender
procumbent branches, fome even lying on the earth ;
the ravages of fire keep them down, as is evident
from the vafl excrefcent tuberous roots, covering
feveral feet of ground, from which thefe flender
/hoots fpring.

In fuch clumps and coverts are to be feen feveral
kinds of birds, particularly a fpecics of jay (pica
glandaria cerulea non criflata) : they are generally
of an azure blue colour, have no crcft or tuft of
feathers on the head, nor are they fo large as the
great crefted blue jay of Virginia, but are equally
clamorous. The towee birds (fringilla erythropthal-
ma) are very numerous, as are a fpecies of bluifh
gray butcher bird (lanius). Here were alfo lizards
and fnakes. The lizards were of that fpecies called
in Carolina, fcorpioQS : they are from five to fix
inches in length, of a flender form ; the tail in par-
ticular Is very long and fmall : they are of a yellow-
ilh clay colour, varied with longitudinal lines or
llripes of a dufl^y brown colour, from head to tail :
they are wholly covered with very fmall fquamas,
vibrate their tail, and dart forth and brandifh their
forked tongue after the manner of ferpents, \vhen
they are furprifed or in purfuit of their prey, which
are fcarabei, locufi?e, mufci, and other infetfls ; but
I do not learn that their bite is poifonous, yet I have
obferved cats to be fick foon after eating them.
After pafTmg over this extenfive, level, hard, wet
favanna, we croflcd a fine brook or rivulet ; the
water cool and pleafant ; it§ banks adorned wilh va-
rieties of trees and fhrubs, particularly tlie delicate
cvrilla raceiniflora, chionanthus, clethra, nyifa
fylvatica, Andromeda nitida, Andromeda formo-
fiifnna : and here were great quantities of a very

large

XORTH AMERICA. I7I

krge and beautiful filix ofmunda, growing in great
tufts or clumps. After leaving the rivulet, we paiTed
over a wet, hard, level glade or down, covered
with a fine fhort grafs, with abundance of low faw
palmetto, and a few ihrubby pine trees, quercus ni-
gra, quercus finuata or fcarlet oak : then the path
defcends to a wet bay-gale ; the ground a hard, fine,
white fand, covered with black Audi, which conti-
nues above two miles, w hen it gently rifes the higher
fand hills, and dire<^ly after pafles through a fine
grove of young long-leaved pines. The foil feemed
here, loofe, brown, coarfe, fandy loam^ though fer-
tile. The afcent of the hill, ornamented with a va-
riety and profufion of herbaceous plants and graffes,
particularly amaryllis atamafco, clitoria, phlox, ipo-
mea, convolvulus, verbena corymbofa, ruellia, viola,
&c. A magnificent grove of (lately pines, fuc-
ceeding to the expanfive wild plains we had a long
time traverfed, had a pleafing efted, roufing the
faculties of the mind, awakening the imagination by
its fublimity, and arrefling every aclive, inquifitive
idea, by the variety of the fcencry, and the folemn
fymphony of the fteady Wedern breezes, playing
inceifantly, rifing and falling through the thick and
wavy foliage.

The pine groves parted, w^e immediately find our-
felves on the entrance of the expanfive airy pine fo-
relts, en parallel chains of low fwelling mounds,
called the Sand Kills ; iheir afcent fo eafy, as to be
almofl imperceptible to the progrellive traveller ;
yet at a dillaiit view before us in feme degree ex-
hibit the appearance of the mountainous fwell of
the ocean immediately after a temped : but yet, as
we approach them, they infenfibly difappear, and
jTeem to be loil ; and we iiiouid be ready to conclude

all

172 TRAVELS IN

all to be a vifionary fcene, were it not for the fpark-
ling ponds and lakes, which at the fame time gleam
through the open forefls, before us and on every
fide, retaining them in the eye, until we come
up with them. And at laft the imagination re-
mains flattered and dubious, by their uniformity,
being moflly circular or elliptical, and almofl fur-
rounded with expanfive green meadows ; and al-
ways a piclurefque dark grove of live oak, magno-
lia, gordonia, and the fragrant orange, encircling
a rocky fhaded grotto of tranfparent water, on
fome border of the pond or lake ; which, without
the aid of any poetic fable, one might naturally
fuppofe to be the facred abode or temporary refi-
dence of the guardian fpirit ; but is aftually the
pofTeffion and retreat of a thundering abfolute cro-
codile.

Arrived early in the evening at the Halfway
pond, where we encamped and ftayed all night.
This lake fpreads itfelf in a fpacious meadow, be-
neath a chain of elevated fand hills : the (heet of
water at this time was about three miles in cir-
cumference; the upper end, ju(t under the hills,
furrounded by a crefcent of dark groves, whi(;h
fhaded a rocky grotto. Near this place was a flop-
ing green bank, terminating by a point of liat
rocks, which projeifted into the lake, and formed
one point of the crefcent that partly furrounded the
vaft grotto or b^fon of tranfparent waters, which
is called by the traders a fink-hole, a fingular kind
of vortex or conduit, to the fubterranean recepta-
cles of the waters ; but though the waters of thefe
ponds, in the fummer and dry feafons, evidently tend
towards thefe fmks, yet it is fo flowly and gradually,
as t« be almolt imperceptible, There is always a

meandering

KOI<.TH AMERICA.

K5

expofures to light ; the fides and bellv of a briglit
pale yellow ; the belly faintly ftained with vermiliion
red, infenfibly blended with the yellow on the fides,
and all garnifned with fiery, blue, green, gold and
filver fpecks on the fcales ; the branchioftec^a, is of a
yellowilh clay or firaw colour ; the lower edge ov
border next the opening of the gills, ii near a quar-
. ter of an inch in breadth, of a fea green or ma-
rine blue ; the ulterior angle protends backwards to
a confiderable lengthy in the form of a fpatula or
feather, the extreme end dilated and circular, of r
deep black or crow colour, reflecting green and
blue, and bordered round with fiery red*, fomewhat
like red fealing wax, reprcfenting a brilliant ruby on
the fide of the fifti j the fins reddifh, edged with a
dove colour : it is defervedly elfeemed a mod ex-
cellent fifli.

Here are, as well as in all the rivers, lakes, and
ponds of Ealt Florida, the great foft ilielled tor-
toifes* : they are very large when full grown, from
twenty to thirty and forty pounds weight, extremely
fat and delicious, but if eaten to exc^[s are apt to
purge people not accudomed to eat their meat.

They are flat and rery thin ; two feet and a half
in length, and eighteen inches in breadth acrofs the
back ; in form, appearance, and texture, very much
refembling the lea turtle : the whole back fhcll,
. except the vertebra or ridge, which is not at all
prominent, and ribs on each fide, is foft or carti-
laginous, and eafily reduced to a jelly when boil-
ed ; the anterior and poflcrior extieinlcies of the
back fliell, appear to be embolVed with round,

* Tcllado nafo cyliiidracio clongato, truncate.

hornv

lyG TRAVELS IN

horny warts or tubercles 5 the belly or nether fhell
is but fmall and femicartllaginous, except a nai-
Tow crofs bar connecting it at each end with the
back fliell, which is hard and ofleous ; the head is
large and clubbed, of nearly an oval form ; the up-
per mandible, however, is protended forward, and
truncated, fomewhat refembling a fvvine's fnout, at
the extreme end of which ihe noflrils are placed j
on each fide of the root or bafe of this probofcis are
the eyes, which are large ; the upper beak is hook-
ed and fharp, like a hawk's bill ; the lips and cor-
ners of the mouth large, tumid, wrinkled, and barb-
ed with long, pointed warts, which he can project
and contraft at pleafure, which gives the creature
a frightful and difagreeable countenance. They
bury themfelves in the flufhy bottoms of rivers
and ponds, under the roots of flags and other
aquatic herbage, leaving a hole or aperture juft
fufficient for their head to play through ; to fuch
places rhey withdraw themfelves when hungry, and
there feize their prey by furprife, darting out their
heads as quick as lightning, upon the unwary ani-
mal that unfortunately flrolls within their reach :
they can extend their neck to a furprifmg length,
which enables them to feize young fowl fwimming
on the furface of the water above them, which they
inftantly drag down. They are feen to raile their
heads above the furface of the water, in the depths
of the lakes and rivers, and blow, caufmg a faint
pulling noife, fomewhat like a porpoife ; probably
this is for palHme, or to charge themfelves with a
proper fupply of frcfli air. They are carnivorous,
feeding on any animal they can feize, particularly
young ducks, frogs, and fifh.

We had a large and fat one ferved up for our

fupper.

y

T/.-,

//\rrS).

^a\%

NORTH AMERICA. 177

fupper, "which I at firft: apprehended we had made a
very extravagant waftc of, not being able to con-
iume one half of its flcfli, though excellently well
cooked : mv companions, however, feemed regard-
lefs, being in the midft of plenty and variety, at any
time within our reach, and to be obtained with little
or no trouble or fatigue on our part ; when herds of
deer were feeding in the green meadows before us ^
flocks of turk^vs walking in the groves around us,
and myriads of fifh, of the greatcft variety and de-
licacy, fporting in the cryftailine floods before our
eyes.

The vultures and ravens, crouched on the crooked
limbs of the lofty pines, at a little diflance from us,
jfliarpening their beaks, in low debate, waiting to
regale themfelves on the offals, after our departure
Irom camp.

At the return of the morning, by the powerful
influence of light, the pulfe of nature becomes more
active, and the univerfal vibration, of life infenfibly
and irrenflibly moves the wondrous machine. How
cheerful and gay all nature appears ! Hark ! the mu-
sical favanna cranes, ere the chirping fparrow flirts
from his grafly couch, or the glorious fun gilds the
fops of the pines, fpread their expanfive wings, leave
their lofty roolls, and repair to the ample plains.

From haif-way pond, we proceed Wefl:ward,
through the high forclls of Cufcowilla.

The appearance of the earth for five or fix miles
prefented nearly the fame fcenes as heretofore.

Now the fand ridges became higher, and their
bafeti proportionably more exteiifive j the favannas

N and

1 ;-8 TRAVilLS IN"

and ponds more expanfive ; the fummlts of the ridgeJ
more gravelly ; here and there, heaps or piles ot
rocks, emerging out of the fand and gravel : thefe
rocks are the fame fort of concrete of fand and fhelh
as noticed at St. Juan's and the great lake. The
vegetable productions nearly the fame as already
mentioned.

We gently defcended again over fand ridges,
eroded a rapid brook, ripling over the gravelly bedy
hurrying the tranfparent waters into a vaft and
beautiful lake, through a fme fruitful orange grove,
-vvhich magnificently adorns the banks of the lake to
a great diflance on each fide of the capes of the
creek. This is a ftne fituation for a capital to\vn>
Thefe waters are tributary to St. Juan's.

We alighted to refrefh ourfelves, and adjuft our
packs. Here are evident figns and traces of a power-
ful fettlement of the ancients.

Sat oiT again, and continued travelling over a
magnificent pine foieft, the ridges, low, but their'
r^afes extenfive, with proportionable plains. The'
Ready breezes gently and continually rifing and fall-
ing, fill the high lonefome foreds with an awful re-
verential harmony, inexpreflibly fublime, and not to"
be enjoyed any where, but iu thefe native wild In-
dian regions,

Crofnn.g another Urge deep creek of St. Juan's,
the country is a vaft level plain, and the foil good'
for the diltance of four or five miles, though fight
and fandy, producing a foreft of ftately pines and
Janrels, with fome others ; and a vail profufion of
herbage, fuch as rudbeckia, hefianthus, filphium,
polymnia, ruellia, verbena, rhexea, convolvulus, fo-

phora,

NORTH AMERICA. I79

phora, glycine, vitia, clltorea, ipomea, iirtica, falvia
graveolens, viola, and many more. How cheerful
and focial is the rural converfe of the various tribes
of tree frogs, whilft they look to heaven for prolific
ihowers ! How harmonious the flirill tuneful fongs
of the wood thrufii, and the foothing love lays of
the amorous cuckoo *, feated in the cool leafy
branches of the (lately magnolias and fliadowy elm.«,
maples and liquidambar, together with gigantic fa-
gus fylvatica, which Ihade and perfume the fequef-
tered groves ! How unexpected and enchaniing the
enjoyment, after traverfing a burning fandy de-
fert !

Now, again, we behold the open pine forefls, and
afcend the fandy hilh, which continue for fome miles,
then gently defcend again, when a level expanfive
iavanjia plain prefents itfelf to view, which, after
entering and proceeding on, becomes wet and co-
vered bv a fine fliort grafs, with extenfive parterres
of the dwarf creeping palmetto, its ftipes fliarply
toothed or ferrated, together with clumps of lov/
fhrubs, as kalmia, Andromeda, annona pygmea, my-
rica cerifera, empetrum, vaccinium, and others.

We now afcend a little again, and pafs through a
narrow pine forelt ; when fuddenly opens to view a
vaftiv extenfive and fedgy marlh, expanding South-
erly like an open fan, fetmingly as boundlefs as the
great ocean ; our road croiling the head of it,
about three hundred yards over ; the bottom here
was hard land, a loot or more under a folt muddy
furfnce. I'he traders informed me, that thefe valt
mar flies lie on the borders of a great lake, many
miles in length, in magnitude exceeding Lake

* Cuculus Caro'iinlcnf;s.

N 2 George,

iSo TRAVELS IN

George, and communicating with St. Juan's by a
river * ; its contiuence above the lower ftore at the
Little Lake.

Obferved as we pafled over the fand hills^ the
dens of the great land tortoife, called gopher : this
iirange creature remains yet tindefcribed by hifto-
rians and travellers. The firft figns of" this animal's
exiltence, as we navel Southerly, are immediately
alter we crofs the Savanna River. It is to be
ieen only on the high dry Sand hills. V/hen arrived
at Its greatefl: magnitude, the upper fliell is near
ei-^j[hteen inches in length, and ten or twelve inches
m breadth ; the back is very high, and the (helf
of a very hard bony fubitance, confifling of many
regular compartments, united by futures, in the
manner of the other fpecies of tortoife, and covered
xvith thin horny plates. The nether or belly fhell
is large, and regularly divided tranfverfely into
iive parts : thefe compartments are not knit toge-
ther like the futures of the (kull, or the back IheU
of the tortoife, but adhere, or are connedled toge-
ther by a very ridgy horny cartilage, which ferves
as hinges for him to Ihut up his body withi-n his Ihell
at plcafure. The fore part of the belly fhell towards
its extremity is formed fomev/hat like a fpade, ex-
tends forward near three inches, and is about an inch
and an half in breadth ; its extremity is a Httle bifid ;
the pofterior divifion of the belly fhell is likewife
protended backwards confiderably, and is deeply
bifurcated.

The legs and feet are covered with flat horny
fquamse ; he feems to have no clefts in them or
toes, but long ilattifh nails or talons, fomewhac in

* Great Ockli-Waha.

refemblance

NORTH AMERICA". I Si

refemblance to the nails of the human fingers, five
on the fore feet ; the hind legs or feet appear as if
truncated, or as (lumps of feet, armed ail round
with fliarp, ilattifli ftrong nails, the number unde-
termined or irregular ; the head is of a moderate
fize ; the upper mandible a little hooked, the e^ges
hard and Iharp ; the eyes are large ; the nofe pick-
ed ; the noftrils near together and very minute ;
the general colour of the animal is a light afh or
clay, and at a diftance, unlefs it is in motion.
any one would difregard or overlook it as a Hone
or an old flump. It is aflonifhing what a weight
one of thefe creatures will bear ; it will eafily carry
any man {landing on its back, on level ground.
They form great and deep dens in the fand hills,
cading out incredible quantities of earth. They are
clteemed excellent food. The eggs are larger than
a mufket ball, perfectly round, and the fliell hard.

After crcfling over this point or branch of the
marfhes, we entered a noble forell, the land level,
and the foil fertile, being a loofe, dark brown, coarfe
fandy loam, on a clay or marley foundation : the
foreft confilled of orange groves, overtopped by grand
magnolias, palms, live oaks, juglans cinerea, mo-
rns rubra, fagus fylvatica, tilia, and liquidambar ;
with various kinds of flirubs and herbaceous plants,
particularly callicarpa, halefia, fambucus, zanthoxy-
lon, ptelea, rhamnns frangula, rudbeckia, filphium,
polymnia, indigo fera, fophora, ialvia graveolens,
&c. We were cheerfully received in this hof-
pitable fliade, by various tribes of birds ; their
fprightly fongs feemed a prelude to the vicinity of
human habiraiions. This magnificent grove was a
wing of the vafl forcfts lying upon the coafl of the
great and beautiful laks of Cufcowilla, at no great

diftance

152 TRAVELS IN

diflance from U5. Continuing eig-ht or nine miles
through this fublime forell:, we entered on an open
forefl of lofty pines and oaks, on gently fwelling
land hills, and prefently faw the lake, its waters
fparkling through the open groves. Near the path
was a large artificial mound of earth, on a moil
charming, high fituation, fuppofed to be the work
of the ancient Floridans or Yaraafees ; with other
traces of an Indian town. Here were three or four
Indian habitations ; the women and children faluteJ
us with cheerfulnefs and complaifance. After riding
near a mile farther, we arrived at Cufcowilla, near
the banks : a pretty brook cf water ran through the
town, and entered the lake jufl by.

We were welcomed to the town, and conducted
by the young men and maidens to the chiefs houfe^
which flood on an eminence, and was dlrtinguifhed
from the reft by its fuperior magnitude, a large flag ,
being hoifled on a high flaff at one corner. We
immediately alighted : the chief, who is called the
Cowkeeper, attended by feveral ancient men, came
to us, and in a very free and fociable manner, fhook
our hands, or rather arms, (a form of ialutation pe-
culiar to the American Indians) faying at the fame
time, " You are come." We followed him to
an apartment prepared for the reception of their
gueffs. ■ • '

The pipe being filled, it is handed around ; after
which a large bowl, with What they call, " thin
drink," is brought in and fet down on a imall low
table. In this bowl is a great wooden ladle ; each
perfon takes up in it as much as he pleafes, and after
drinking until fatisfied, returns it again into the
bowl, pufhing the handle towards the next perfon in
the circle j and lo it goes round.

After

NORTH AMERICA. j3^

After the ufual compliments and inquiries rela,-
t'lve to our adventures, &c. the chief trader inform-
ed the Cowkeeper, in the prefence of his council or
attendants, the purport of our bufinefs, with which
he expreffed his fatisfadion. He was then informed
what the nature of my errand was, and he received
me with complaifance, giving me unlimited permif-
fion to travel over the country for the purpofe of
collecting flowers, medicinal plants, 5cc. faluting me
by the name of Puc Puggy, or the Flower hunter,
recommending me to the friendfhip and protection
of his people.

The next day being agreed on to hold a council
und tranfa<5l the bufmefs of our embalTy, we ac-
quainted the chief with our intention of making our
<"ncampment on the borders of the great Alachua
SAVANNA, and to return at the time appointed to
town, to attend the council according to agree-
ment.

Soon after we had fixed on the time and manner
of proceeding on the further fettlement of the treaty,
a confiderable number of Indians affembled around
their chief, when the converfation turned to common
and familiar topics.

The chief is a tali well made man, very affable
and cheerful, about fixty years of ag^, /lis eyes lively
and full of fire, his countenance manly and placid,
yet ferocious, or what we call favage, his nofe aqui-
line, his drcfs extremely fimple, but his head trim-
jncd and ornamented in the true Creek mode. He
has been a great warrior, having then attending
him as flaves, many Yamalee captives, taken by
.'?'"nh"tii ^'hen young. They were drCiTed better

thiin

184 TRAVELS IK

than he, and ferved and waited upon him with figns
of the mod abjeft fear. The manners and cufloms
of the Alachuas, and mofl of the lower Creeks or
Siminoles, appear evidently tinftured with vSpanifli
civilization. Their religious and civil ufages mani-
feft a predileQion for the Spanifli cufloms. I'here
are feveral Chridians among them, many of whom
wear little filver crucifixes, affixed to a wampum
collar round their necks, or fufpended by a fmall
chain upon their breaft. Thefe are faid to be bap-
tized ; and notwithflanding mofl of them fpeak and
underfland Spanifli, yet they have been the molt
bitter and formidable Indian enemies the Spaniards
ever had. The flaves, both male and female, are
permitted to marry amongfl them : their children
are free and confidered in every refpecl equal to
themfelves ; but the parents continue in a (late of
ilavery as long as they live.

In obferving thefe Haves, we behold at once, In
their countenance and manners, the flriking contraft
betwixt a flate of freedom and Ilavery. They are
the tamefl, the mofl abject creatures that we can
pofTibly imagine : mild, peaceable, and tradable,
they feem to have no will or power to a6l but as di-
rected by their maflers ; whilfl the free Indians, on
the contrary, are bold, active, and clamorous. They
differ as widely from each other as the bull from the
ox.

The repafl is now brought in, confifting of veni-
fon, flewed Vv'ith bear's oil, frefh corn cakes, milk,
and homony ; and our drink, honey and water, very
cool and agreeable. After partaking of this ban-
quet, we took leave and departed for the great fa-
vanna.

We

NORTH AMERICA. 185

We foon entered a level, graffy plain, inter-
fperfed with low, fpreading, three-leaved Pine-trees,
large patches of low fhrubs, confiding of Prinos
glaber, low Myrica, Kalmia glauca, Andromedas of
feveral fpecieSj and many other flirubs, with patches
of Palmetto. We continued travelling through
this favanna or bay-gale, near two miles, when the
land afcends a little ; we then entered a hommock.
or dark grove, confiding of various kinds of trees,
as the Magnolia grandiflora, Corypha palma. Citrus
Aurantium, Quercus fempervirens, Morus rubra,
Ulmus fylvatica, Tilia, Juglans cinerea, itfculus pa-
via, Liquidambar, Laurus Borbonia, Hopea tinclo-
ria, Cercis, Cornus Florida, Halefia diptera, Ha-
lefia tctraptera, Olea Americana, Callicarpa, An-
dromeda arborea, Sideroxylon fericium, Sid. tenax,
Vitis labrufca, Hedera arborea, lledera quinqviefo-
lia, Rhamnus volubilis, Prunu? CaroHniana(pr. fior.
racemofis, foliis fempervirentibus, lato-lanceolatis,
acuminatis, ferralis) Fagus fylvatica, Zanthoxylon
clava Herculis, Acer rubrum, Acer negundo, Frax-
inus excclfior, with many others already mention-
ed. The land dill gently rifing, the foil fertile,
loofe, loamy, and of a dark brown colour. This
continues near a mile ; when at once opens to view
the mod fudden tranfition from darknefs to light,
that can poinbly be exhibited in a natural land-
Icape.

The cxtenfive Alachua favanna Is a level green
plain, above fifteen miles over, fifty miles in cir-
cumference, and fcnrcely a tree or buHi of any kind
to be feen on it. It is encircled with high, doping
hills, covered with wavins^ foreds and fragrant
Orange groves, rifing from an exuberantly fertile foil.
The towering Magnolia grandidora and tranfcen-

dcnt

s86 TRAVELS IN

dent Palm, (land confpicuous amongd: them.. At
ihe fame time are feen innumerable droves of cat*
lie; the lordly bull, lowing cow, and fleek caprir
■cious heifer. The hills and groves re-echo their
cheerful focial voices. Herds of fprightly deer,
fquadrons of the beautiful fleet Sirainole horfe,
blocks of turkeys, civilized communities of the fo-
Tiorous watchful crane, mix together, appearing
happy and contented in the enjoyment of peact;,
■(ill dilKirbed and affrighted by the warrior man.
Behold yonder, coming upon them through the
darkened groves, fneakingly and unawares, the
Kiaked red warrior, invading the Elyfian fields and
green plains of Alachua. At the terrible appear-
ance of the painted, fearlefs, uncontrouled, and free
Siminole, tiie peaceful innocent nations are at once
thrown into dilorder and diiinay. See the ditFcrent
■tribes and bands, how they draw towards each
other ! as it were deliberating upon the general
good. Suddenly they fpeed off with their young
in the centre ; but the roebuck fears him not : here
he lays himfelf down, bathes and flounces in the
cool flood. The red w^arrior, whofe plumed head
f.afhes lightning, wiioops in vain ; his proud am-
bitious horfe ftrains and pants ; the earth glides
from under his feet, his flowing mane whiilles in tht
wind, as he comes up full of vain hopes. The
bounding roe views his rapid approaches, rifes up,,
lifts aloft his antlered head, eretis the white flag*,
and fetching a flirill whiPile, fays to his fleet and free
alTociates, " follow :" he bounds off, and in a few
minutes diftances his foe a mile; fuddenly he flops,
turns about, and laughing fays, " how vain ! go
chafe meteors in the azure plains above, or hui)t
"butterflies in the fields about your towns."

* Aljudine to his tail«

NORTH AMERICA. 187

We approached the favanna at the fouth end by
a narrow iflhmus of level ground, open to the light
of day, and clear of trees or buflies, and not greatly
elevated above the common level, having on our
light a fpacious meadow, embelliflied with a little
lake, one verge of which was not very diftant from
us ; its fhore is a moderately hiiih, circular bank,
partly encircling a cove of the pond, m the form
of a half moon ; the water is clear and deep, and,
at the dillance of fome hundred yards, was a large
rioating field (if I may fo exprefs myfelt) of the
Nymph^ea nelumbo, with their golden bloflbms wav
ing 10 and fro on their lofty flenis. Beyond thefc
fields of Nymphssa were fpacious plains, encompniled
by dark groves, opening to exteniive Pine ioiefts,
other plains flill appearing beyond them.

This little lake and furrounding meadows would
have been alone fufficient to furprife and delight the
traveller ; but being placed fo near the great fa-
vanna, the attention is quickly drawn olt, and wholly
engaged in the contemplation of the unlimited, va-
ried, and truly aftonifliing native wild fcenes ot
landfcape and perfpedive, there exhibited : how
is the mind agitated and bewildered, at being thus,
as it were, placed on the borders of a new world !
On the lirif view of fuch an amazing difplay of the
wifdom and power of the fupreme author of nature,
the mind for a moment feems fufpenJed, and im-
prcfled with awe.

This idhmus beinc: the common avenue or road
of Indian travellers, we pitched our camp at a fmall
diilance from it, on a rifing knoll near the verge
ot the favanna, under fome fpreading Live Oaks :
this fituation was open and airy, and gave us an un-
bounded profpccl over the adjacent plains. Dewy

eveninof

lS8 TRAVELS IN

evening now came on ; the animating breezes,
which cooled and tempered the meridian hours
of this fiiltry feafon, now genrly ceafed ; the glori-
ous fovereign of day, calHng in his bright beaming
emanations, left us in his abfence to the milder
government and protection of the filver queen of
night, attended by millions of brilliant luminaries.
The thundering alligator had ended his horrifying
roar; the fiiver plumed gannet and ftork, the fage
and folitary pelican of the wildernefs, had already
letlred to their {"ilent nocturnal habitations, in the
neighbouring forells ; the fonorous favanna cranes,
in well difciplined fquadrons, now rifing from the
earth, mounted aloft in fpiral circles, far above the
denfe atmofphere of the humid plain ; they again
viewed the glorious fun, and the light of day ilili
gleaming on their polifhed feathers, they fung their
evening hymn, then In a ftralght line majellically
defcended, and alighted on the towering Palms or
lofty Pines, their fecure and peaceful lodging places.
All around being {till and filent, we repaired to reft.

Soon after fun-rife, a party of Indians on horfe-
back appeared upon the favanna, to cblled toge-
ther feveral herds of cattle which they drove along
near our camp, towards the town. One of the
party came up, and informed us, the cattle belong-
ed to the chief of Cufcowilla ; that he had ordered
fome of the befl fteers of his droves to be flaughtered
for a general feaft for the whole town, in compli-
ment of our arrival, and pacific negociations.

The cattle were as large and fat as thofe of the
rich grazing paftures of Moyomenfmg in Pennfylva-
nla. The Indians drove off the lowing herds, and
we foon followed them to town, in order to be at
council at the appointed hour, leaving two young
n)en of our party to protec> our camp.

Upon

NORTH AMERICA. lS(^

Upon our arrival we repaired to the public fquare
or council-houfe, where the chiefs and fenators were
already convened ; the warriors and youjig men af-
fembled loon after, the bufinefs being tranfacted
in public. As it was no more than a ratification of
the late treaty of St. Augufline, with fome parti-
cular commercial flipulations, with refpeft to the
citizens of Alachua, the negotiations (oon terminated
to the fatisfaclion of both parties.

The banquet fucceeded ; the ribs and choiceft fat
pieces of the bullocks, excellently well barbecued,
were brought into the apartment of the public fquare,
conltrufted and appointed for feafting ; bowls and
kettles oi Hewed fleih and broth were brought in for
the next courfe, and with it a very fingular difli,
the traders call it tripe foup ; it is made of the bcily
or paunch of the beef, not overcleanfed of its
contents, cut and minced pretty fine, and then
made into a thin foup, feafoned well with fait and
aromatic herbs ; but the feafoning not quite ftrong
enough to extinguilh its original favour and fcent.
This difh is greatly efteemed by the Indians, but
is, ill my judgment, the lead agreeable they have
amongll them.

The town of Cufcowilla, which is the capital of
the Alachua tribe, contains about thirty habitations,
each of which confilts of two houfes nearly the fame
fize, about thirty feet in length, twelve feet wide,
and about the fame in height. The door is placed
midway on one fide or in the front. This houfe
is divided equally, acrofs into two apartments, one
of which is the cook room and common hall, and
the other the lodging room. The ther houfe is
nearly of the famedimenfions, Handing about twenty
yardi from the dwelling houfe, its end fronting

the

190 TRAVELS IN

the door. This building is two florles high, and
confhu£ted in a different manner. It is divided tranf-
verfely, as the other, but the end next the dwelling
houfe is open on three fides, fupported by pofts or
pillarF. It has an open loft or platform, the afcent to
which is by a portable flair or ladder : this is a
pleafant, cool, airy fituation, and here the mafter
or chief of the family retires to repofe in the hot
feafons, and receives his guefts or vifitors. The
other half of this building is clofed on all fides by
notched logs ; the lowed or ground part is a pota-
toe houfe, and the upper ftory over it a granary for
corn and other provifions. Their houfes are con-
flruded of a kind of frame. In the firll place, flrong
corner pillars are fixed in the ground, with others
fomewhat lefs, ranging on a line between ; thefe
are ftrengthened by crofs pieces of timber, and the
whole with the roof is covered clofe with the bark
of the Cyprei's tree. The dwelling (lands near the ,
middle of a fquare yard, encompaifed by' a low
bank, formed with the earth taken out of the yard,
which is always carefully fwept. Their towns are
clean, the inhabitants being particular in laying their
lilth at a proper diflance from their dwellings,
which undoubtedly contributes to the healthiuefs of
their habitations.

I'he town Hands on the mod pleafant fituation
that could be well imagined or defiied, in an inland
country ; upon a high iwelling ridge of fand hills,
within three or four hundred yards of a large and
beautiful lake, the, circular fhore of which conti-
nually waflies a fandy beach, under a moderately
high floping bank, terminated on one fide by ex-
tenfive forelfs, confifting of Orange groves, over-
topped with grand Magnclias, Palms, Poplar, Ti-

lia,

NORTH AMERICA. I9I

Ha, Live Oaks, and others already noticed ; and the
oppofite point of the crefcent, gradually retires with
hommocky projeiling points, indentincj the grally
marfl-ses, and iafily terminates in inrinite green
plains and meadows, united with the Ikies and wa-
ters oF the lake. Such a natural landscape, fuch a
rural Icene, is not to be imitated by the united in-
genuity and labour of man. At prefent the ground
betwixt the town and the lake is adorned by an
open giovc of very tall Pine trees, which ftanding
at a confiderable diilance from each ocher, admit a
delightful profpect of the fparkling waters. The
lake abounds with various excellent li!h and wild
fowl ; there aie incredible numbers of the latter,
efpecially in the winter feafon, when they arrive
here from the north to winter.

The Indians abdicated the ancient Alachua town
on the borders of the favanna, and built here, call-
ing the jiew town Cufcowilla : their reafons for re-
moving their habitation were on account of its un-
healthinefs, occafioned, as they fay, by the (lench
of the putiid iifn and reptiles in the fummer and au-
tumn, driven on fhore by the alligators, and the
exhalations from marflies of the favanna, toQ;ether
with the perfecution of the mufquitoes.

They plant but little here about the town ; onlv
a imall garden fpot at each habitation, confilting
of a little Com, Beans, Tobacco, Citruls, ;?vc.
Their plantation, which fupplies them with the chief
of their vegetable provifions, fuch as Zea, Con-
volvulus batata, Cucurbitacitrulus, Cue. lagenaria,
Cue. pepo. Cue. tnelopepo. Cue. verrucofa, Do-
lichos varieties, &c. lies on the rich prolific lands
bordering on the great iVlachua favanna, about two
miles diltance. This planiaticn Is one common en-

clofurC;,

igZ TRAVELS IN

clofure, and Is worked and tended by the whole
community ; yet every family has its particular
part, according to its own appointment, marked off
when planted ; and this portion receives the com-
mon labour and aihlUmce until ripe, when each fa-
mily gathers and depofits in its granary its own pro-
per fliare, fetting apart a fmall gift or contribution
for the public granary, which (lands in the centre of
the plantation.

The youth, under the fupervlfal of fome of their
ancient people, are daily ftationed in their fields,
and are continually whooping and hallooing, to
chafe av/ay crows, jackdaws, black-birds, and fuch
predatory animals ; and the lads are armed with
bows and arrows, and being trained up to it from
their early youth, are fure at a mark, and in the
courfe of the day load themfelves with fquirrels,
birds, &c. The men in turn patrole the corn
fields at night, to protect their provifions from the
depredations of night rovers, as bears, raccoons,
and deer ; the two former being immoderately fond
of young corn, when the grain is filled with a rich
milk, as (wett and nourifting as cream j and the'
deer are as fond of the Potatoe vines.

After the fead was over, we returned to cur en-
campment on the great favanna, towards the even-
ing. Our companions, whom we left at the camp,
were impatient for our return, having been ou*
horfe hunting in the plains and groves during our
abfencc. I'hey foon left us, on a vifit to the town,
having there fome female friends, with whom they
were anxious to renew their acquaintance. The
Siminole girls are by ho means deflitute of charms
to pleafe the rougher fex : the white traders are
fully fenfible how greatly it is for their advantage
to

NORTH AMERICA. I93

to gain their affedions and friendfliip in matters of
trade and commerce ; and if their love and efteein
for each other is fmcere, and upon principles of re-
ciprocity, there are but few inftances of their neg-
lecting or betraying the interefts and views of rheir
temporary hulbands ; they labour and watch con-
ftantly to promote their private inrerefts, and de-
te^ and prevent any plots or evil defjgns which may
threaten their perfons, or operate againfl their trade
or bufmefs.

In the cool of the evening I embraced the oppor-
tunity of making a folitary excurfion round the ad-
jacent lawns. Taking my fuzee with me, I foon
came up to a little clump of flirubs, upon a fvrelU
ing green knoll, where I obferved feveral large
faakes entwined together. I Itepped up near them ;
they appeared to be innocent and peaceable, having
no inclination to ftrike at any thing, though I en-
deavoured to irritate them, in order to difcover
their dilpofition ; nor were they anxious to efcape
from me. This fnake is about four feet in length,
and as thick as a man's wrill ; the upper fide of a
dirty a(h colour ; the fquamas large, ridged, and
pointed ; the belly or under fide of a reddifh dull
flefh colour ; the tail part not long, but (lender, like
moft other innocent fnakes. They prey on rats,
land frogs, young rabbits, birds, &c. I left them,
continuing my progrefs and refearches, delighted
with the ample profpetts around and over the fa-
vanna.

Stopping again at a natural fhrubbery, on turn-
ing my eyes to fome flowering fhrubs, I obferved
near my feet the furprifing glafs fnake (anguis
iragilisj. It feems as innocent and harmlefs as
a worm, li is, when full grown, two feet and

O :^a

194 TRAVELS IN

and half in length, and three fourths of an inch in
thicknefs ; the abdomen or body part is remarkably
Ihort, and it feems to be all lail, which, though
long, gradually attenuates to its extremity, yet not
fmall and llender as in Ivvitch fnakes. The colour
and texture of the whole animal is exactly hke
bluifli green glafs, which, together with its fragi-
lity, almoit perfuades a Ibanger that it is in rea-
lity of that brittle fubllance : but it is only the tail
part that breaks off, which it does like glafs, by a
very gentle itroke from a flender fwitch. Though
it is quick and nimble in twilling about, yet it
cannot run faft from one, but quickly fecrets it-
felf at the bottom of the grafs or under leaves.
It is a vulgar fable, that it is able to repair
itfelf after being broken into feveral pieces ;
which pieces, common report fays, by a power or
faculty in the animal, voluntarily approach each
other, join and heal again. The fun now low,
fhot the pointed fhadov/s of the projecting pro-
montories far on the Ikiits of the lucid green plain :
Hocks of turkeys calling upon their flrolling aflb-
ciates, circumfpedly marched onward to the groves
and high forefts, their nocturnal retreats. Dewy eve
now arrived, i turned about and regained our en-
campment in good time.

The morning cool and pleafant, and the fkies
ferene, we decamped, puriuing our progrefs round
the Alachua favarma. 'i'hree of our companions
feparating from us, went a-head, and we foon lofk
fight of them : jhey again parting on different ex-
curfions, in quelt of game and in fearch of their horfes,
fome entered the lurrounding groves and forefls,
others (truck off into the green plains. My compa-
liion, the old trader,- and myfelf kept together, he

beinji

NORTH AIVriiRICA. I95

being the mod intelligent and willing to oblige nie.
We coalttd the green verge of the plain, under the
furrounding hills, occafionally penetrating and croil-
ing the pi ejecting promontories as the pathway
or conveniency dictated, to avoid the waters and
mud which flill coi.tiautd deep and boggy near the
ileep hills, in ipringy places ; lo that when we came
to luch places, we found it convenient to afcend
and coaft round the fides of the hills, or flrike out
a little into the favanna, to a moderately fwelling
ridge, where the ground being dry, and a delight-
ful green turf, was pleafant travelling ; but then we
were under the neceflity of fording creeks or rivu-
lets, which are the conduits or drains of the (hal-
low boggy ponds or moratVcs juil under the hills.
This ranee or chain of moraflc'S continues round the
fouth and fouth weft border of the favanna, and
appeared to me to be fed or occafioned by the
great wet bay-gale or favanna Pine lands, which lie
immediately back of the high hilly forefts on the
great favanna, part of which we crolTed in coming
from Cufcowilla ; which bottom is a flat, level, hard
fand, lying between the fand ridge of Cufcowilla,
and thefe eminences of the great favanna ; and is a
vaft receptacle or lefervoir of the rain waters, which
being defended from the aCtive and powerful exha-
lations of the meridian fun, by the fhadow of the
Pine trees, low fhrubs, and grafs, gradually filtei-
ing through the fand, drain through thefe hills, and
prefent themfelves in innumerable little meandering
rills, at the bafes of the (hady heights fronting the
javaiiiia.

Our progrefs this day was extremely pleafant,
over the green turf, having in view numerous herds
of cattle and deer, and fquadrons of horfe, peaceablv
browzing on the tender, fweet grafs, or ItroUino-

O 2 throusih.

196 TRAVELS IN

through the cocl fragrant groves on the furrounding
heights.

Befide the continued Orange groves, thefe heights
abound with Palms, Magnolias, Red Bays, Liquid-
ambar, and Fagus fylvatica of incredible magni-
tude, their trunks imitating the fhafts of vaft co-
lumns : we obferved Calline, Prunus, Vitis la-
brufea, Rhamnus volubilis, and delightful groves of
jf^fculus pavia, and Prunus Caroliniana, a mofl
beautiful evergreen, decorated with its racemes of
Jweet, white bloflbms.

Palling through a great extent of ancient Indian
fields, now grown over with forefts of (lately trees.
Orange groves, and luxuriant herbage, the old
trader, my affociate, informed me it was the an-
cient Alachua, the capital of that famous and power-
ful tribe, who peopled the hills furrounding the.
favanna, when, in days of old, they could aflemble by
thoufands at ball play and other juvenile diverfions
and athletic exercifes, over thofe, then happy, fields
and green plains. And there is no reafon to doubt
of his account being true, as almoft every ftep we
take over thofe fertile heights, difcovers remains and
traces of ancient human habitations and cultiva-
tion. It is the mofl elevated eminence upon the fa-
vanna ; and here the hills defcend gradually to the
favanna, by a range of gentle, grafly banks. Ar7
riving at a fwelling green knoll, at fome diflance
in the plains, near the banks of a pond, oppofite
the old Alachua town, the place appointed for our
meeting again together, it being near night, our
aflbciates loon after joined us, where we lodged.
Early next morning we continued our tour ; one di-
vifion of our company direding its courfe acrofs
the plains to the north coaft ; my old companion,

with

NORTH AMERICA. I97

with myfelf in company, continued our former rout,
coafting the favanna W. and N. W. ; and by agree-
ment we were all to meet again at night, at the E.
end of the favanna.

We continued fome miles crofling over, from pro-
montory to promontory, the moft enchanting green
coves and viftas, fcolloping and indenting the high
coafts of the vail plain. Obferving a company of
wolves (lupus niger) under a few trees, about a
quarter of a mile from fliore, we rode up towards
them ; they obferving our approach, fat on their
hinder parts until we came nearly within fliot of
them, when they trotted off towards the foiefts,
but flopped again and looked at us, at about two
hundred yards diftance : we then whooped, and
made a feint to purfue them ; when they feparaied
from each other, fome flretching off into the plains,
and others feeking covert in the groves on Ihore.
When we got to the trees, we obferved they had been
feeding on the carcafe of a horfe. The wolves of
Florida are larger than a dog, and are perfectly
black, except the females, wiiich have a white fpot
on the breafl ; but they are not fo large as the
wolves of Canada and Pennfylvania, which are of a
yellowifli brown colour. There were a number of
vultures on the trees over the carcafe, who, as foon
as the wolves ran off, immediately fettled down
upon it ; they were however held in reflraint
and fubordination by the bald eagle (falco leucoce-
phalus).

On our route near a long proje(fl:ed point of the
coaft, we obferved a large flock of turkeys : at
our approach they half ened to the groves. We foou
eained the promontory. On the afcending hills were
vefliges of an ancient Indian town, now overiha-

dowcd

198 TRAVELS IN

dowed with p^roves of the Orange, loaded with both
green and ripe fruit, and embelliflied with their
fragrant bloom, gratifying the tafte, the fight, and
the fmell at the fame inftant Leaving this delight-
ful retreat, we foon came to the verge of the groves,
when prefented to view a vafl verdant bay of the
favanna. We difcovered a herd of deer feeding at
a fmall diftance ; upon the fight of us they ran off,
taking fhelter in the groves on the oppofite point or
cape of this fpacious meadow. My companions be-
ing old expert hunters, quickly concerted a plan
for their deflrudion. One of our company imme-
diately (Iruck off, obliquely croffing the meadow for
the oppofite groves, in order to intercept them,
if they fhould continue their courfe up the foreff, to
the main ; and we croffed ftraight over to the point,
if poffible to keep them in fight, and watch their
motions, knowing that they would make a (land
thereabouts, before they would attempt their laft
efcape. On drawing near the point, we flackened
our pace, and cautioufly entered the groves ; when
we beheld them thoughtlefs and fecure, flouncing
in a fparkling pond, in .a green meadow or cove
beyond the point ; feme were lying down on their
fides in the cool waters, whilff others were prancing
like young kids ; the young bucks in playfome fport,
with their fl:iarp horns hooking and fpurring the
ethers, urging them to fplafli the water.

1 endeavoured to plead for their lives ; but my
old friend, though he was a fenfible rational and
good fort of man, would not yield to my philofo-
phy. Ke requefted me to mind our horfcs, while he
made his approaches, cautioufly gaining ground on
them, from tree to tree, v.'hen they all fuddenly
fprang up and herded together : a princely buck
\^ho headed the party, whiffled and bounded off;

his

NORTH AMERICA. I99

his retinue followed ; but unfortunately for their
chief, he led them with prodigious fpeed out to-
wards the favanna very near us, and when palling
by, the lucky old hunter, fired and laid him prof-
rrate upon the green turf, but a few yards from us.
His affrighted followers ar the inftant fprang off in
every direction, ftreaining away like meteors or
phantoms, and we quickly loft fight of them. He
opened his body, took out the entrails, and placed
the carcafe in the fork of a tree, calling his frock
or hunting fliirt over to prote»ft it from the vukures
and crows, who follow the hunter as regularly as
his own fliade.

Our companions foon arrived. We fcl forward
again, enjoying the like fccneswc had already pall;
obferved parties of Siminole' horfes couvfing over
the plains, and frequently faw deer, turkeys, and
wolves, but they knew their fafcty here, keeping
far enough out of our reach. The wary, (liarp
fighted crane, circumrpec\ly obferved cur progrel's.
We faw a female of them fitting on her ned, and
the majc, her mate, watclifully traverfing back-
wards and forwards, at a fmall dillance ; they fuf-
fered us to approach near them before they aroie,
when they fprcad their Vvings, running and tipping
the ground with their feet fonie time, and then
mounted aloft, foaring round and rou:id over the
neft. They fit upon only two eggs at a time, which
are very large, long, and pointed at one end, of a
pale afh colour, powdered or fpeckled wi[h brown.
The manner of forming their nells and, fitting is
very fingular : choofing a tulfock, and there forming
a rude lieap of dry grafs, or fuch like materials,
near as high as their body is from rhe ground, when
(landing upon their fis.r, ou the fmnmit of rliis

rhev

40O TRAVELS m

they form the neft of fine foft dry grais. When they
cover their eggs to hatch them, they (land over them,
bearing their bodies and wings over the eggs.

We again came up to a long projecting point of
the high forefts, beyond which opened to view an
extenfive grafly cove of the favanna, feveral miles in
circuit. We crofled flraight over from this promon-
tory to the oppofite coaft, and on the way were con-
flrained to wade a mile or more through the water,
though at a little diflance from us it appeared as a
delightful meadow, the grafs growing through the
water, the middle of which, however, when we
came up, proved to be a large fpace of clear water
aimofl deep enough to fwim our horfes ; it being a
large branch of the main creek which drains the fa-
vanna. After getting through this morafs, we arrived
on a delightful, level, green meadow, as ufual,
which continued about a mile, when we reached
the firm land ; and then gradually afcending, we
alighted on a hard fandy beach, which exhibited evi-
dent figns of being wafhed by the waves of the favan-
na, when in the winter feafon it is all under water,
aPxd then prefents the appearance of a large lake.
The coa(t here is much lower than the oppofite {]de^
which we had left behind us, and rifes from the
meadows with a gradual Hoping afcent, covered
fcatteringly with lov/ fpreading Live Oaks, fnort
Palms, Zanthoxylon, Laurus Borbonia, Cafline, Si-
deroxylon, Quercus nigra, Q^ fmuata, and others ;
all leaning from the bleak winds that opprefs them.
About one hundred yards back from this beach, the
fand hills gradually rife, and the open Tine fo-
refts appear. We coaft ed a mile or two along the
beach, then doubled a promontory of high forefts,
and foon after came to a fwift running brook of

clear

KOR.TH AMERICA. 20f

clear water, rolling over gravel and white fand,
which being brought along with it, in its defcent
down the lleeper fandy beach, formed an eafy fwell-
ing bank or bar. The waters fpread greatly at this
place, exhibiting a (hallow glittering fheet of clear
water, but jufl fufficient continually to cover the
clear gravelly bed, and feemed to be funk a little
below the common furface of the beach. This
ftream, however, is foon feparated into a number of
rivulets, by fmall fandy and gravelly ridges ; and the
waters are finally ftolen away from the fight, by a
charming green meadow, but again fecretly uniting
under the tall grafs, form a little creek, meandering
through the turfy plain, marking its courfe by reeds
and ruflies, which fpring up from its banks, joining
the main creek that runs through the favanna, and
at length delivers the water into the Great Sink.
Proceeding about a mile farther, we came up to
and crofled another brook larger than the former,
which exhibited the like delightful appearance.
We next palled over a level green lawn, a cove
of the favanna, and arrived at a hilly grove. Wo
alighted in a pleafant vifla, turning our horfes to
graze while we amufed ourfelves with exploring the
borders of the Great Sink. In this place a group
of rocky hills almofl: fur rounds a large bafon, which
is the general receptacle «f the water, draining from
every part of the vafl: favanna, by lateral conduits,
windinjjj about, and one after another ioinincr the

. , I JO

mam creek or general conductor, v/hich at length
delivers them into this fink ; where they defcend by
flow degrees, through rocky caverns, into the bow-
els of the earth, whence they are carried by fecret
fubterraneous channels into other reccjitacles and
bafons.

We

2C2 TRAVELS IN

We afcended a colleiJlion of eminences, covered
with dark groves, which is one point of the crefcent
that partly encircles the fink or bafon, open only on
the fide next the favanna, where it is joined to the
great channel or general conduclor of the waters.
From this point over to the oppofite point of the
crefcent (which is a fimilar high rocky promontory)
is about one hundred yards, forming a vaft femi-
circular cove or bafon, the hills encircling it rifmg
very fteep fifty or fixty feet, high, rocky, perpen-
dicular and bare of earth next the waters of the ba-
fon. Thefe hills, from the top of the perpendicular,
fluted, excavated walls of rock, flant off moderately
up to their fummits, and are covered with a very
fertile, loofe, black earth, which nourifhes and fup-
ports a dark grove of very large trees, varieties of
fhrubs and herbaceous plants. Thefe high foreil
trees furrounding the bafon, by their great height
and fpread, fo effedually fhade the waters, that
comint^ fuddenly from the open plains, we feem at
once ihut up in darknefs, and the waters appear
black, yet are clear. When we afcend the top of
the hills, we perceive the r round to be uneven, by
round fwelling points and correfponding hollo^vvs,
overfpread with gloomy (hade, occafioned by the tall
and fpreading trees, fuch as live oak, morus rubra,
zanthoxylon, fapindus, liquidambar, tilia, laurus
borbonia, quercus dentata, juglans cinerea, and
others, together with orange trees of remarkable
magnitude and very fruitful. But that which is moft
fmgular and to me unaccountable, is the infundibu-
liform cavities, even on the top of thefe high hills,
iome twenty, thirty, and forty yards acrofs, at their
fuperficial rims exactly circular, as if (truck with a
compafs, doping gradually inv/ards to a point at bat..

torn,

NORTH AMERICA. Zo;^

torn, forming an inverted cone, or like the upper
wide part of a funnel : the perpendicular depth of
them from the common furface is various, fome de-
fcending twenty feet deep, others almoll to the bed
of rocks, which forms the foundation or nuclus of
the hills, and indeed of the whole country of Eaft
Florida : fome of them feem to be nearly filled up
with earth, fwept in from the common furface, but
retain the fame uniformity ; though fometimes fo
clofe together as to be broken one into another.
But as I (hall have occafion to fpeak further of thefe
fmks in the eartli hereafter, I turn my obfervatioii
to other objedls in view round about me. In and
about the Great Sink are to be fcen incredible num-
bers of crocodiles, fome of which are of an enormous
fize, and view ihc paflcnger with incredible impu-
dence and avidity ; and at this time they are fo abun-
dant, that, if permitted by them, I could walk over
any part of the bafon and the river upon their heads,
which flowly float and turn about like knotty chunks
or logs of wood, except when they plunge or fhoot
forward to beat off their affociates, prcfTing too clofe
to each other, or taking up filh, which continually
crowd in upon them from the river and creeks,
draining from the favanna, efpecially the great trout,
mudfiOi, catfifh, and the various fpccies of bream :
the gar are rather too hard for their jaws and rough
for their throats, efpecially here, where they have a
fuperfluous plenty and variety of thole that are every
way preferable : befides, the gar being, like them-
felves, a warlike voracious creature, they feem to be
in league or confederacy together, to enflave and
devour the numerous defcncelefs tribes.

It is aflonifliing and incredible, perhaps, I may
fay, to relate what unfpeakable numbers of fifli re-
pair

2C4 tRAV£LI IN

pair to this fatal fountain or receptacle, during the
latter fammer feafon and autumn, when the power-
jul fun beams have evaporated the waters off the
lavanna ; where thofe who are fo fortunate as to ef-
left a retreat into the conductor, and efcape the de-
vouring jaws of the fearful alligator and armed gar,
defccnd into the earth, through the wells and cavities
or vaft perforations of the rocks, and from thence
are conduced and carried away, by fecret fubterra-
nean conduits and gloomy vaults, to other diftant
lakes and rivers. And it does not appear impro-
bable, but that in fome future day this vaft favanna
or lake of waters in the winter feafon will be difco-
vered to be in a great meafure filled with its finny
inhabitants, who are ftrangers or adventurers from
other lakes, ponds, and rivers, by fubterraneous ri-
vulets and communications to this rocky, dark door
or outlet, whence they afcend to its furface, fpread
over and people the winter lake, where they breed,
increafe, and continue as long as it is under water,
or during pleafure, for they are at all feafons to be
feen afccnding and defcending through the rocks :
but towards the autumn, when the waters have al-
moft left the plains they then crowd to the fmk in
fuch multitudes, as at times to be feen prefTmg on
in great banks into the bafon, being urged by pur-
fuing bands of alligators and gar, and when entering
the great bafon or fink, are fuddenly fallen upon by
another army of the fame devouring enemies, lying
in wait for them. Thoufands are driven on fiiore,
where they periih and rot in banks, which was evi-
dent at the time I was there, the Itench being into-
lerable, although then early in the fummer. There
are three great doors or vent holes through the rocks
in the fmk, two near the centre and the other one
near the rim, much higher up than the other two,

which

NORTH AMERICA. 235

which was confpicuous through the clear water.
The beds of rocks lay in horizontal thick ftrata or
laminae, one over the other, where the fink holes or
outlets are. Thefe rocks are perforated by perpen-
dicular wells or tubes, four, five, and fix feet in
diameter, exadly circular as the tube of a cannon
or walled well ; many of thefe are broken into one
arc her, forming a great ragged orifice, appearing
fluted by alternate jambs and femicircuiar perpendi-
cular niches or excavations.

Having fatisfied my curiofity in viewing this ex-
traordinary place and very wonderful work of na-
ture, we repaired to our relting place, where we
found our horfes and mounted again ; one of the
company parting from us for the buck that we had
Ihot and left in the fork of the tree. My friend, the
old trader, led the fhorteft way acrofs the plain,
after repafling the wet morafs which had almoft
fwum our horfes in the morning. At evening we
arrived at the place of our deflination, where our
aflbciates foon after rejoined us with fomc Indians,
who were merry agreeable guefts as long as they
flaid. They were in full drefs and painted ; but
before dark they mounted their horles, which were
of the true Siminole breed, fet fpurs to them, ut-
tering all at once a flirill whoop, and went off for
Cufcowilla.

Though the horned cattle and horfes bred in
thefe meadows are large, fleek, fprlghtly, and as
fat as can be in general, yet they are fubjedl to mor-
tal difeafes. I obferved feveral of them dreadfully
mortilied, their thighs and haunches ulcerated, raw
and bleeding, which, like a mortification or flow
cancer, at length puts an end to their miferable
exiftence. The traders and li\dians call this dif-

eafe

206 TRAVELS IN

eafe the water-iot or fcald, and fay it is occafioned
by the warm waters of the favanna, during the heats
of fummer and autumn, when thefe creatures wade
deep to feed on the water-grafs, which they are im-
moderately fond of; whereas the cattle which only
feed and range in the high forefls and pine favannas
are clear of this diforder. A facrifice to intemper-
ance and luxury.

We had heavy rains during the night, and though
very warm, yet no thunder and very little wind. It
cleared away in the morning, and the day was very
pleafant. Sat off for the Eaft end of the favanna,
colleding by the way and driving before us parties of
horfes, the property of the traders ; and next morn-
ing fet off on our return to the lower (lore on St.
John's, coafting the favanna yet a few miles, in ex-
pedation of finding the remainder of their horfes,
though difappointed.

We at lad bid adieu to the magnificent plains of
Alachua, entered the pine forefts, and foon fell into
the old Spanifli highway, from St. Auguftine acrofs
the iflhmus of Florida, to St. Mark's in the bay of
Apalache. Its courfe and diflance from E. to W.
is, from St. Augufline to Fort Picoiata on the river
St. Juan, twenty-feven miles; thence acrofs the
liver to the Poopoa Fort, three miles ; thence to
the Alachua Savanna, forty-five miles ; thence to
Talahafochte on the river Little St. Juan, feventy-
five miles ; thence down this river to St. Mark's,
thirty miles : the whole diflance from St. Augufline
to St. Mark's, one hundred and eighty miles. But
this road having been unfrequented for many years
paft, lince the Creeks fubdued the remnant tribes
of the ancit-nt Floridans, and drove the Spaniards
from their fettlements in Eafl Florida into St. Au-
gufline,

NORTH AMERICA. 207

guftine, which effecliuilly cut oit their communica-
tion between that garrilbn and St. Mark's ; this an-
cient highway is grown up in many places with trees
and Jhrubs ; but yet has left k-) deep a track on the
lurface of the earth, that it may be traced for ages
yet to come.

Leaving the highway on our left hand, wcafcended
a fandy ridge, thinly planted by nature with (lately
pines and oaks, of the latter genus particularly q.
fmuata, f. fiammula, q. nigra, q. rubra. Pafled by
an Indian village fituated on this high airy fand
ridge, confiiling of four or five habitations ; none
of the people were at home, they were out at their
hunting camps ; we obferved plenty of corn in their
cribs. Following a hunting path eight or nine miles,
through a vart: pine forefl and graliy favanna, well
timbered, the ground covered with a charming car-
pet of various flowering plants, came to a large
creek of excellent water, and here we found the en-
campment of the Indians, the inhabitants of the little
town we had pafled ; we law their women and chil-
dren, the men being out hunting. The women pre-
fented themfelves to our view as we came up, at the
d^or of their tents, veiled in their mantle, modeilly
fliowing their face?, when we faluted them. Towards
the evening we fell inio the old trailing path, and
before night came to camp at the Half way Pond.
Next morning, after colleding together the horfes,
fome of which had ftrollcd away at a great diftance,
we purfued our journey, and in the evening arrived
at the trading houfe on St. Juan'^, from a fuccefsful
and pleafant :our.

On my return to the flore on St. Juan's the trad-
ing fchooner was iheiej but as ihc was not to re-
turn

?0S TRAVELS IN

return to Georgia until the autumn, I found I had
time to purfue my travels in Florida, and might at
ieifure plan my excurfions to coiled feeds and roots
in boxes, &c.

At this time the talks (or meflages between the
Indians and white people) were perfedly peaceable
and friendly, both with the Lower Creeks and the
Nation or Upper Creeks. Parties of Indians were
coming in every day with their hunts ; indeed the
Mufcogulges or Upper Creeks very feldom difturb
us. Bad talks from the Nation are always very fe-
rious affairs, and to the utmoft degree alarming to
the white inhabitants.

The Mufcogulges are under a more flrift govern-
ment or regular civilization than the Indians in ge-
neral. They lie near their potent and declared
enemy, the Chaftaws. Their country having a vaft
frontier, naturally acceffible and open to the incur-
lions of their enemies on all fides, they find them-
felves under the necellity of aifociating in large po-
pulous towns, and thefe towns as near together as
convenient, that they may be enabled to fuccour and
defend one another in cafe of fudden invafion. This
confequently occafions deer and bear to be fcarce
and difficult to procure, which obliges them to be
vigilant and induflrious ; this naturally begets care
and ferious attention, which we may fuppofe in fome
degree forms their natural difpofition and manners,
and gives them that air of dignified gravity, fo flrik-
ingly charafteriftic in their aged people, and that
fteadinels, jufl and cheerful reverence in the middle
aged and youth, which fits fo eafy upon them, and
appears fo natural. For, however ftrange it may
appear to us, the fame moral duties which with us

form

,11

NORTH AMERICA: 209

form the amiable, virtuous charaO:er, fo difficult to
maintain, there, without compulfion or vifible re-
flraint, operates like inftind, with a furprifmg har-
mony and natural eafe, infomuch that it feenis im-
pofiible tor them to ad out of the common high road
to virtue.

We will now take a view of the Lower Creeks or
Siminoles, and the natural difpofition which charac-
tcrifes this people ; when, from the ftriking contraft,
the philofopher may approve or difapprove, as he
may^think proper, from the judgment and opinion
given by dilferent men.

The Siminoles are but a weak people with refped
to numbers. All of them, I fuppofe, would not be
fufficient to people one of the towns in the Mufco-
gulge ; for inllance, the Uches on the main branch,
of the Apalachucla river, which alone contains near
two thoul'and inhabitants. Yet this handful of people
poiTelTes a vaft territory ; all Eafl Florida and the
greatefl: part of Well: Florida, which being naturally
cut and divided into thoufands of iflet:, knolls, and
eminences, by the innumerable rivers, lakes, fwamps,
vart: favannas and ponds, form fo many fecure re-
treats and temporary dwelling places, that effectually
guard them from any fudden invafions or attacks
from their enemies; and being fuch a fvvampy, hom-
mocky country, furnifhes fuch a plenty and varjety
of fupplies for the nourilhment of varieties of ani-
mals, that I can venture to alfcrt, that no part of the
globe fo abounds with wild game or creatures fit for
the food of man.

Thus they enjov a fuperabundance of the necef-
faries and conveniencies of life, with the fecurity of
perfon and property, the two great concerns of

P mankind*

2IO TRAVELS IN

friankind. The hides of deer, bears, tigers and
wolves, together with honey, wax and other pro-
duflions of the country, purchafe their clothing,
equipage, and domeflic utenfds from the whites.
They leem to be free from want or defires. No
cruel enemy to dread ; nothing to give them dif-
quietude, but the gradual encroachments of the
white people. Thus contented and undifturbed,
they appear as blithe and free as the birds of thp
air, and like them as volatile and active, tuneful
and vociferous. The vifage, action, and deport-
ment of the Siminoles, form the mod ftriking pidure
of happinefs in this life ; joy, contentment, love,
and friendfhip, without guile or afiedtation, feem
inherent in them, or predominant in their vital prin-
ciple, for it leaves them but with the laft breath v>f
life. It even feems impofmg a conltraint upon theii-
ancient chiefs and fenators, to maintain a neceflary
decorum and folemnity, in their public councils ;
not even the debiHty and decripitude of extreme old
age, is fufficient to erafe from their vifages, this
youthful, joyous fimplicity ; but like the gray eve
of a ferene and calm day, a gladdening, cheering
blufi:! remains on the Weltern horizon after the fun
is fet.

I doubt not but fome of my countrymen who' may
read thefe accounts of the Indians, which I have
endeavoured to relate according to truth, at leaft as
they appeared to me, will charge me with partiality
or prejudice in their favour.

I will, however, now endeavour to exhibit their
vices, immoralities, and impel fedions, from my
own obfervations and knowledge, as well as ac-
counts from the white traders, who refide amongft
tkem.

The

NORTH AMERICA. 211

The Indians make war againft, kill, and deflroy
their own fpecies, and their motives fpring from
the fame erroneous fource as they do in all other
nations of mankind ; that is, the ambition of exhi-
biting to their fellows a fuperior character of per-
fonal and national valour, and thereby immorta-
lizing themfelves, by tranfmitting their names with
honour and luftre to pollcrity ; or revenge of
their enemy, for public or perfonal infults ; or, laft-
ly, to extend the borders and boundaries of their
territories. But I cannot find, upon the ftrldeft in-
quiry, that their bloody contells at this day are
marked with deeper Aains of inhumanity or favage
cruelty, than what may be obferved amongft the
moll civilized nations: they do indeed fcalp their
flain enemy, but they do not kill the females or chil-
dren of either fex : the mofl: ancient traders, both in
the Lower and Upper Creeks, affured me they ne-
ver faw an inllance of either burning or tormenting
their male captives ; though it is faJd they ufed to
do it formerly. I faw in every town in the Nation
and yiminoles that I vifited, more or lefs male cap-
tives, fome extremely aged, who were free and in as
good circumdances as their maders ; and all flaves
have their freedom when they marry, which is per-
mitted and encouraged, when they and their offspring
are every way upon an equality with their conquer-
ors. They are given to adultery and fornication,
but, I fuppofe, in no greater excefs than other na-
tions of men. They punifh the delinquents, male
and female equally alike, by taking olF their ears.
This is the punifhment for adultery. Infamy and
difgrace is fuppofed to be a fufKcient punilhment for
fornication, in eithe^ fex,

P ^ They

211 TRAVELS IN

They are fond of games and gambling, and amufe
themfelves like children, in relating extravagant fto-
ries, to caufe furprife and mirth.

They wage eternal war againfl deer and bear, to
procure food and clothing, and other neceffaries and
conveniencies ; which is indeed carried to an unrea-
fonable and perhaps criminal excefs, fmce the white
people have dazzled their fenfes with foreign fuper-
fluities.

CHAP.

KORTH AMERICA. 2 I ;J

CHAP. VII.

Ont my return to the trading houfc, from my
journey to the preat favanna, I found the trading
company for little St. Juan's preparing for that
poft.

My mind yet elate with the various fcenes of ru-
ral nature, which as a lively animated pidlure had
been prefented to my view ; the deeply engraven
imprefTion, a plcaiing flattering contemplation, gave
ftrength and agility to my fteps, anxioufly to prefs
forward to the delightful fields and groves of Apa-
latche.

The trading company for Talahafochte being
now in readinefs to proceed for that quarter, under
the diredion of our chief -tracer, in the cool of the
morning we fat olf^ each of us having a good horfe
to ride, befides having in our caravan feveral pack
horfes laden with provifions, camp equipage, and
other neccflaries. A young man from St. Auguf-
tine, in the fervice of the governor of Eafl Florida,
accompanied us, commiflioned to purchafe of the
Jjidians and traders, fome Siminole horfes. They
rire the moil beautiful and fprighily fpecies of that
noble creature, perhaps any where to be feen ; but
areof afniall breed, and as delicately formed as the
American roe buck. A horfe in the creek or Muf-
cogulge tongue is echoclucco, that is the great
deer 'echo is a deer, and clucco is big.) The Simi-
nole holies are fi-.id to defcend originally from the

Andalufiai^

SI4 TRAVELS IN

Andalufian breed, brought here by the Spaniards
when they iirll eftablillied the colony of Eafl Flo- '
rida. From the forehead to their nofe is a little
arched or aquiline, and fo are the fine Chadaw
horfes among the Upper Creeks, uhich are faid
to have been brought thither from New-Mexico
•acrofs Milliilippi, by thofe nations of Indians who
emigrated from the Weil, beyond the river. Thefe
horfes are every way like the Siminole breed, only
larger, and perhaps not fo lively and capricious.
It is a matter of conjedlure and inquiry, whether
or not the different foil and fituation of the country
may have contributed in fome meafure, in forming
and eftabliflilng the difference in fize and other qua-
lities betwixt them. I have obferved the horfes and
other animals in the high hilly country of Carolina,
Georgia, Virginia, and all along our fliores, are of
a much larger and ftronger make, than thofe which
are bred in the flat country next the fea coaft. A
buck-fkin of the Upper Creeks and Cherokees will
"weigh twice as heavy as thofe of the Siminoles or
Lower Creeks, and thofe bred in the low flat coun-
try of Carolina.

Our firfl; day's journey was along the Alachua
roads, twenty-five miles to the Half-way Pond,
"where we encamped : the mufquitoes were excef-
fively troublelome the whole night.

Decamped early next morning, ftlH purfuing the
road to Alachua, until within a few miles of Cufco-
willa ; when the road dividing, one for the town, and
the otlier for the great favanna, here our company
feparated. One party chofe to pafs through the
town, having fome concerns there. I kept with the
party that went through the favanna, it being the

bea

NORTH AMERICA. 215

bell: road, leading over a part of the fav^anna ; when,
entering the groves on its border, we travelled-
feveral miles over thefe fertile eminences, and de-
lightful ihady fragrant forefts ; then again entered
upon the favannu, and crofl'ed a charming exten-
iive green cove or bay of it, covered with a vivid
green grafly turf, when we again afcendcd the wood-
land hills, through fruitful orange groves, and un-
der fliadowy palms and magnolias. Nov\^ the pine
forells opened to view. We left the magnificent
favanna and its delightful groves, palfmg through
a level, open, airy pine forefl, the {lately trees
fcatteringly planted by nature, arifmg llraight and
ered from the green carpet, embellifhed with va-
rious graifes and flowering plants ; then gradually
afcending the land hills, v/e foon came into the trad-
ing path to Talahafochte ; which is general, except-
ing a tew deviations, the old Spanilh highway to*
St. Mark's. At about five miles diitance beyond the
great favanna, we came to camp laic in the even-
ing, under a little grove of live oaks, jult by a group
of flieily rocks, on the banks of a beautiful little
lake, partly environed by meadows. The rocks,
as ufual in thefe regions, partly encircle a fpacious
fink or grotto, which communicates v/ith the waters
of the lake : th$ waters of the grotto are perfedly
tranfparent, cool, andpleafant, and Vi'ell repleiiiflied
with filh. Soon after our arrival here, our compa-
nions who paflfed through Curcov\'iila joined us. A
biilk cool wind during the ni;^ht kept the perfecu-
ting mufquitoes at a diftancc.

The morning pleafant, \vq decamped early : pro-
ceeding on, rifing gently for feveral miles, over
fandy, gravelly ridges, we found Gurf>jlves in an. ele-

vatedc

21 6 TRAVELS IN

vated, high, open, airy region, fomewhat rocky,
on the backs of the ridges, which prefented to view,
on every fide, the mofl: dreary, folitary, defert wafte
I had ever beheld ; groups of bare rocks emerging
out of the naked gravel and drifts of white fand ;
the grafs thinly fcaitered and but few trees ; the
pines, oaks, olives, andfideroxylons, poor, miflia-
pen, and tattered ; fcarce an animal to be feen, or
noife heard, fave the fymphony of the Weftern
breeze, through the briftly pine leaves, or folitary
fand-cricket's fcreech, or at bed the more focial
converfe of the frogs, in folemn chorus with the fwift
breezes, brought from diftant fens and forefls. Next
■we joyfully entered the borders of the level pine fo-
refl and favannas, which continued for many miles,
never out of fight of little lakes or ponds, environed
with illumined u^eadows, the clear waters fparkling-
through the tali pines.

Having a good fpirited horfe under me, I gene-
rally kept a-head of my companions, which I often
chofe to do, as circumflances offered or invited, for
the fake of retirement and obfervation.

The high road being here open and fpacious, at
a good diflance before me, 1 obferved a large hawk
on the ground in the middle of the road : he feem-
ed to be in diftrefs, endeavouring to rife ; when,
coming up near him, I found him clofely bound up
by a very long coach-whip fnakc, that had wreath-
ed himfelf feveral times round the hawk's body,
who had but one of his wings at liberty : behold-
ing their ftruggles a while, I alighted oif my horfe
with an indention of parting them ; when, on com-
ing up, they mutually agreed to feparate them-
felves, each one feeking his own fafety, probably

confideiing

NORTH AMERICA. 217

confidering me as their common enemy. The bird
rofc aloft and iled away as foon as he recovered
his liberty, and the fnake as eagerly made off. I
foon overtook him, but could not perceive that he
was wounded.

I fuppofe the hawk had been the aggreflbr, and
fell upon the fnakc with an intention of making
a prey of him ; and that the fnnke dexteroufly and
luckily threw himfclf in coils round his body, and
girded him fo dole as to fave himfelf from deftruc-
tion.

The coach-whip fnake is a beautiful crea-
ture. When full grown it is fix and feven feet
in length, and the largell part of its body not fo
thick as a cane or common walking flick ; its
head not larger than the end of a man's finger ;
its neck is very flcnder, and from the abdomen
tapers away in the manner of a fmall fvvitch or
coach-whip ; the top of the head and neck, for three
or four inches, is as black and fliining as a raven ;
the throat and belly as v/hitc as fnow ; and the up-
per fide of the body of a chocolate colour, ex-
cepting the tail part, almofl from the abdomen to
the extremity, which is black. It may be proper to
obferve, however, that it varies in rcfpeft to the
colour of the body ; fome I have feen almofl v* hite
or cream colour, others of a pale chocolate or clay
colour, but in all, the head and neck is black,
and the tail dark brown or bl"ck. It is extremely
fwift, feeming almoil; to fly over the fur face of
the ground ; and that which is very fingular, it
can run fwiftly on its tail part only, carrying
the head and body upright. Orw very fine one ac-
companied me along the road lidc, at a little dif-
tance, raifing himfelf cred, now and then looking

mc

2l8 TRAVEI.S IN

me in the face, although I proceeded on a good
round trot on purpofe to obferve how faft they could
proceed in that pofirion. His object feemed mere
curiofity or obfervation ; with refpeft to venom
it is as innocent as a worm, and feems to be familiar
with man. It appears to be a particular inhabi-
tant of Eaft Florida, though I have feen fome
in the maritime parts of Carolina and Georgia,
but in thefe regions it is neither fo large nor beau-
tiful.

We afcended again, paffing over fand ridges of
gentle elevation, favannas and open Pine forefts.
Mafl'es or groups of rocks prefented to view on every
lide, as before mentioned ; and with difficulty Xve
efcaped the circular infundibuliform cavities or fmks
in the furface of the earth. Generally a group of
rocks, fliaded by Palms, Live Oaks, and Magnolias,
is fituated on their limb : fome are partly filled up
with earth, whilfl others, and the greater number
of them, are partly filled with tranfparent cool wa-
ter, which difcovers the well or perforation through
the rocks in the centre. This day being remarkably
fultry, we came to camp early, having chofen our
fituation under fome (lately Pines, near the verge
of a fpacious favanna.

After fome refrefliment, our hunters went out
into the foreft, and returned towards evening,
Amonglt other game, they brought with them a fa-
vanna crane * which they fhot in the adjoining mea-
dows. This (lately bird is about fix feet in length
from the toes to the extremity of the beak when
extended, and the wings expanded eight or nine feet;
it is above five feci high when (landing erect ; the
tail is remarkably (hort^ but the dag or pendant

* Grus. p.

feathers

NORTH AMERICA. 219

feathers which fall down off the rump on each fide,
are very long and fliarp-pointed, of a delicate tex-
ture, and filky foftnefs; the beak is very long, ftraight
and Iharp pointed ; the crown of the head bare of
feathers, of a reddifh rofe colour, thinly barbed
with fliort, fliff, black hair ; the legs and thighs are
very long, and bare of feathers a great fpace above
the knees : the plumage of this bird is generally of
a pale afli colour, with fliades or clouds of pale
brown and iky blue, the brown prevails on the
fhoulders and back ; the barrels of the prime quill-
teathers are long and of a large diameter, leaving-
a large cavity when cxtraded from the wing : all
the bones of this bird have a thin fliell, and confe-
quently a large cavity or medullary receptacle.
When thefe birds move their wings in flight, their
ftrokes are flow, moderate, and regular ; and even,
when at a confiderable diftance or high above us,
we plainly hear the quill-fcaihers, their (hafts and
webs upon one another creak as the joints or work-
ing of a veifel in a tempeduous fea.

We had this fowl dreffed for fupper, and it made
excellent foup ; neverthclefs, as long as I can get
any other necefiary food, I fhall prefer their feraphic
mufic in the ethereal Ikies, and my eyes and under-
ftanding gratified in obftrving cheir economy and
focial communities, in the expanfive green favannas
of Florida.

Next morning we arofe early, and proceeding,
gradually defcended again, and continued many
miles along a flac, level country, over delightful
green favannas, decorated with hommocks or iflets
of dark groves, confiAing of Magnolia grandiflora,
Morus tiha, Zanthoxylon, Laurus Boibonia, Side-
roxylon, Qiiercus fempervirens, Halcfia diptera, Cal-
licarpa, Corypha palma, &c. There are always groups

of

zio" 'travels in

f^f whitifh teftaceous rocks and finks where thefe
hommocks are. We next crofled a wet favanna,
which is the beginning of a region flill lower than
that we had traveried; here we crofied a rapid rivulet
of exceeding cool, pleafant water, where we halt-
ed to refrefli ourfelves. But it mull be remarked
here, that this rivulet, though lively and rapid at this
time, is not a permanent flream, but was formed
by a heavy rain that fell the day before, as was ap-
parent from its bed j befides it is at beif but a jet or
mere phantom of a brook, as the land around is
rocky and hollow, abounding with wells and cavi-
ties. Soon after leaving the brook, we paffed off
to the left hand, along theverge of an extenfive fa-
vanna, and meadows many miles in circumference,
edged on one border with detached groves and pom-
pous Palms, and embelliflied with a beautiful fpark-
iing lake ; its verges decorated with tall waving grafs
and floriterous plants; the pellucid waters gently
rolling on to a dark fhaded grotto, juft: under a fe-
micircular fwelling turfy afcent or bank, fKirted by
groves of Magnolias, Oaks, Laurels, and Palms. In
thefe expanfive and delightful meadows were feed-
ing and roving troops of the fleet Siminole horfe.
\Ve halted awhile at this grotto ; and, after refrelli-
jng ourfelves, we mounted horfe and proceeded
acrofs a charming lawn, part of the favanna, enter-
ing on it through a dark grove. In this extenfive
. lawn were feveral troops of horfe, and our company
had the fatisfaction of obferving feveral belonging
to themfelves. One occurrence remarkable here,
was a troop of horfe under the controul and care
of a fingle black dog, whlcli feemed to differ in
no refpect from the wolf of Florida, except his
being able to bark as the common dog. He was
very carciul and induibious in keeping them toge-
ther J

NORTH AMERICA. 221

ther ; and if any one ftrolled from the reft at too
great a diftance, the dog would fpring up, head
the horfe, and bring him back to the company. The
proprietor of thefe horfes is an Indian in Tahiha-
fochte, about ten miles diilance from this place,
who, out of humour and experiment, trained hrs
dog up from a puppy to this bulinels : he follows
his mailer's horfes only, keeping them in a feparate
company where they range ; and when he is hungry
or wants to fee his mafter, in the evening he returns
to town, but never flays at home a night.

The region w-e had journeyed through, fmce we
decamped this morning, is of a far better foil and
quality than we had yet feen fmce we left Alachua ;
generally a dark grayifh, and fometimes brown or
black loam, on a foundation of whitifh marl, chalk,
and teflaceous limeftone rocks, and ridges of a loofe,
coarfe, reddifh fand, producing ftately Pines in the
plains, and Live Oak, Mulberry, Magnolia, Palm,
Zanthoxylon, S:c. in the hommocks, and alfo in
great plenty the perennial Indigo ; it growls here five,
fix, and feven feet high, and as thick together as if
it had been planted and cultivated. The higher
ridges of hills afford great c]uantities of a fpecies of
iron ore, of that kind found in New-Jerfey and
Pennfylvania, and there called bog ore ; it appears
on the furface of the ground in large detached
niaffes and fmaller fragments ; it is ponderous and
feemed rich of that moft ufeful metal ; but one
property remarkable in thefe terrigenous (tones is,
that they appear to be bliftered, fomewhat refem-
bling cinders, or as if they had fufl'ered a violent
adion of fire.

Leaving the charming favanna and fields of Capo-
la, we pailed feveral miles through delightful plains

and

■222 TRAVELS IN

and nieadou's, Utile differing from the environs of
Capola, diverfified with rocky illcts or hommocks
of dark woodland.

We next entered a vaft forefl: of the mod flarely
Pine trees that can be imagined, planted by na-
ture at a moderate diftance, en a level, graffy plain,
enamelled with a variety of flowering ihrubs, viz.
Viola, Ruella, infundibuliforma, Amaryllis atamaf-
co, Mimofa fenfitiva, Mimofa intfia ?,nd many
others new to me. This fublime foreft continued
five or fix miles, when we came to dark groves of
Oaks, Magnolias, Red bays, Mulberries, &c. through
w^hich proceeding near a mile, ws entered open
fields, and arrived at the town of Talahafochte, on
the banks of Little St. Juan.

The river Little St. Juan may, with fmgular pro-
priety, be termed the pellucid river. The waters
are the clearefl and pureft of any river I ever faw,
tranfmitting diftintlly the natural form and appear-
ance of the objects moving in the tranfparent floods,
or repofing on the filvery bed, with the finny inha-
bitants fporting in its gently flowing ftream.

The river at the town is about two hundred yards
over, and fifteen or twenty feet in depth. The
great fwamp and lake Oaquaphenogaw is faid to be
its fource, which is about one hundred miles by land
North of this place ; which would give the river a
courfe of near two hundred miles from its fource to
the fea, to follow its meanders ; as in general our
rivers, that run any confiderable difl:ance through
the country to the lea, by their windings and roving
about to find a paifage through the ridges and
heights^ at lead double their diftance.

The

NORTH AMERICA. 223

The Indians and traders fay that this liver l.as no
branches or collateral brooks or rivers tributary to
it, but that it is fed or augmented by great fprings
which break out through the banks. From the ac-
counts given bv them, and my own obfervations on
the country round about, it ftems a probable alTer-
tion ; for there was not a creek or rivulet to be feen,
running on the furface of the ground, from the
great Alachua Savanna to this river, a diflance of
above feventy miles ; yet, perhaps, no part of the
earth aftbrds a greater plenty of pure, lalubrious
waters. The unparalleled tranfparency of thefe wa-
ters furnifties an argument for fuch a conjetfture,
that amounts at lead to a probability, were it not
confirmed by ocular demonftration ; for in all the
flat countiies of Carolina and Florida, except this
iilhmus, the waters of the rivers are, in fome degree,
turgid, and have a dark hue, owing to the annual
hring of the forefls and plains ; and afterwards the
heavy rains wailiing the light furlace of the burnt
earth into rivulets, which rivulets running rapidly
over the furface of the earth, flow into the rivers,
and tinge the waters the colour of lye or beer,
almoft down to the tide near the fea coaft. —
Bat here behold how different the appearance,
and how manifefl the caufe ! for although the
furface of the ground produces the fame vegetable
fubflances, the foil tiie lame, and fullers in lilic
manner a general conflagration, and the rains, in
impetuous Ihowers, as liberally defcend upon the
parched furface of the ground ; yet the earth be-
ing fo hollow and porous, thefe fuperabundant wa-
ters cannot conflitute a rivulet or brook, to conti-
nue any dillance on its furface, before they are
arrelted in their couxfe and fwallowed up : thence

defcendincT,

224 TRAVELS IN

defcendiiig, they are filtered through the fands and
other ftrata of earth, to the horizontal beds of po-
rous rocks, which, being compofed of thin feparable
laminae, lying generally in obliquely horizontal
direftions over each other, admit thefe waters to
pafs on by gradual but conftant percolation. Thus
collecting and aflbciating, they augment and form
little rills, brooks, and even fubterraneous rivers,
which wander in darknefs beneath the furface of the
earth, by innumerable doublings, windings, and
fecret labyrinths ; no doubt in fome places forming
vaft refervoirs and fubterranean lakes, inhabited
by multitudes of fifh and aquatic animals : and pof-
fibly v/hen collected into large rapid brooks, meet-
ing irrefiftible obftrutlions in their courfe, they fud-
denly break through thefe perforated fluted rocks,
in high perpendicular jets, nearly to their former
level, flooding large diflrids of land. Thus by means
of thole fubterranean courfes, the waters are puri-
fied and finally carried to the banks of great rivers,
where they emerge and prefent themfclves to open
day-light, with their troops of finny inhabitants, in
thofe furprifing vaft fountains near the banks of this
river ; and likewife on and near the fliores of Great
St. Juan, on the eafl: coaft of the ifthmus, fome of
which I have already given an account of.

On our arrival at Talahafochte, in the evening
we repaired to the trading houfe formerly belonging
to our chief, v/here were a family of Indian-s, who
immediately and complaifantly moved out to ac-
commodate us. Tie White King with mofl of the
male inhabitants were out hunting or tending their
Corn plantations.

The town is delightfully fituated on the elevated
eafl banks cf the river, the ground ievel to near
the river, when it defcends fuddenly to the v/ater ;

I fuppofe

NORTH AMERICA. 225

I fuppofc the perpendicular elevation of the ground
may be twenty or thirty feet. There are near thirty-
habitations conltructed after the mode of Culbo-
willa ; but here is a more fpacious and neat council-
houfe.

Thefe IpAiians have Irirgc handfomc canoes, which
they form out of the trunks of Cyprefs trees (Cu-
prelTus diiticha), fome of them commodious enough
to accommodate twenty or thirty warriors. In thefe
large canoes they defcend the river on trading and
hunting expeditions to the fea coaft, neighbouring
iflands and kevs, quite to the point of Florida, and
fometimes acrofs thegulph, extending their naviga-
tions to the Bahama iflands and even to Cuba : a
crew of thefe adventurers had jufl arrived, having
returned from Cuba but a few days before our arri-
val, with a cargo of fpirituous liquors, Coffee, Su-
gar, and Tobacco. One of them politely prefented
me with a choice piece of Tobacco, which he told
me he had received from the governor of Cuba.

They deal in the way of barter, carrying with
them deer Ikins, furs, dry fifli, bees-wax, honey,
bear's oil, and fomc other articles. They fay the
Spaniards receive them very friendly, arud treat
them with the beil fpirituous liquors.

The Spaniards of Cuba likewife trade here or at
St. Mark's, and other fea ports on the well coaft of
the illhmus, in fmall lloops ; particularly at the bay
of Carlos, where are excellent iifliing banks and
grounds ; not far from which is a confiderable town
of the Siminoles, where they take great quantities
of fifli, which they fait and cure on fliore, and barter
vith the Indians and traders for flvins, furs, ;?cc. and
return with their cargoes to Cuba.

Ci^ The

226 TRAVELS IN

The trader of the town of Talahafochte informed
me, that he had, when trading in that town, large
fupplies of goods from thefe Spanlfh tiauing veflels,"
fui table for that trade, and fome very elTcntial ar-
ticles, on more advantageous terms than hei could
purchafe at Indian ftores either in Georgia or St.
Auguftine.

Towards the evening after the fultry heats were
pafl:, a young man of our company having previ-
oufly procured the loan of a canoe from an Indian,
propoled to me a fifliing excurfion for trout with
the bob. We fet off down the river, and before
we had paffed two miles, caught enough for our
houfhold : he was an excellent hand at this kind of
diverfion : fome of the fifli were fo large and ftrong
in their element, as to fhake his arms ftoutly and
drag us with the canoe over the floods before we
got them in. It is in the eddy coves, under the
points and turnings cf the river, v/here the fur-
face of the waters for fome acres is covered wifh
the leaves of the Nymphea, Piftia, and other am-
phibious herbs and grafs, v/here the haunts and re-
treats of this famous iifli are, as well as others of va-
rious tribes.

Obferving a fifliing canoe of Indians turning a
point below and coming towards us, who hailed us,
wc waited their coming up; they were cheerful
merry fellows, and inliiied on our accepting of part
of their fifh ; they having a greater quantity and va-
riety, efpecially of the bream, my favourite fifh, we
exchanged fome of our trout with them.

Our chief being engaged with the chiefs of the
town in commercial concerns, and others of our.
company out in the fortfts with the Indians, hunt-
ing

NORTH AMERICA. 227

ing up hoifes belonging to the trading company ;
the young interpreter, my companion, who was
obliging to me, and whom our chief previoufly re-
commended to me as an allociate, propoied to me
another little voyage down the river. This w^as
agreeable to me, being defirous of increafing my
obfervations during our continuance at '1 ahha-
fochte : as when the White King Ihould return to
town (which was expected every hour (we iiitended
after audience and treaty to leave them and encamp
in the forells, about iifteen miles diltance ana nearer
the range of their horfcs.

Having fupplied ourfclves with ammunition and
provilion, we fet off in the cool of the morning, and
defcended pleafantly, riding on the cry Hal fiood,
vhich flows down with an cafy, gentle, yet a<flive
current, rolling over its lilvery bed. How abun-
dantly are the waters rcpleniflied with inhabitants 1
the ftream almoft as tranfparent as the air we breathe;
there is nothing done in fecret except on i's green,
flowery verges, where nature, at the command of
the Supreme Creator, hath fpvead a mantle, a^ a
covering and retreat at faitable and convenient times,
but by no means a fecure refuge from the voracious
enemy and purfuer.

Behold the watery nations, in numerous bands
roving to and fro, amidfl: each other ; here they feem
all at peace ; though, incredible to relate ! but a few
yards off, near the verge of the green mantled Ihore
there is eternal war, or rather flaughter. Near the
banks the waters become turbid, from fubffances
gradually diverging from each fide of the fwift chan-
nel, and colledions of opaque particles whirled to
fliore by the eddies, which aflord a kind of nurfery for

0^2 young

228 TRAVELS IN

young fry, and its lllmy bed is a prolific nidus for
generating and rearing of infinite tribes and fwarms
of amphibious infecls, ■« liich are the food of young
fifh, who irx their turn become a prey to the older.
Yet when thofe different tribes of fifh are in the
tranfparent channel, their very nature feems abfo-
lately changed ; for here i. neither dcfire to dellroy
riOr perfecute, but all feems peace and frindfhip.
Do they agree on a truce, a fufpenfion ot hodilities ?
or by fome :ecret divine influence, is defne taken
aTV'ay ? or thev are otherwife rendered incapable of
purfuing each other to deftrudion ?

About noon we approached the admirable Manatc
Spring, three or four miles down the river. This
charming nyniphaEum is the product of primitive
nature, not to be imitated, much lefs equalled, by the
united effort of human power and ingenuity ! As we
approach it by water, the mind of the inquiring
traveller is previoufly entertained, and gradually
led on to greater difcovery ; firR by a view of the
fublime dark grove, lifted up on fhore, by a range
or curved chain of hills, at a fmall diflance from the
lively green verge of the river, on the eaft banks ;
as we gently defcend floating fields of the Nymphijea
nelumbo, interfered with villas of the yellow green
Piftia ftratiotes, which cover a bay or cove of the
river oppofite the circular woodland hills.

It is amazing and almofh incredible, what troops
and bands of fifii and other watery inhabitants arc
now in fight, all peaceable ; and in what variety of
gay colours and forms, continually afccnding ard
defcending, roving and figuring amongft one ano-
ther, yet every tribe aflbciating feparately. We
now afcended the cryflal flream ; the current fwift ;

we

NORTH AMERICA. 229

we -en tiered the grand fountain, the expanfive cir-
cular bafon, the fource of which arifes from under
the hafes of the high woodland hills, nearly half en-
circling it. The ebullition is aftoniiliing, and conti-
nual, though its greateft force of fury intermits, re-
gularly, for the fpace of thirty feconds of time : the
•waters appear of a lucid fea green colour, in fome
meafure owing to the refle(ftion of the leaves above :
the eVullition is perpendicular upwards, from a vafl
ragged orifice through a bed of rocks, a great
depth below the common furface of the bafon, throw-
ing up fmall particjes or pieces of white fhelk,
which fubfide with the w^aters at the moment of
intermilFion, gently fettling down round about the
orifice, forming a vafl funnel. At thofe moments,
when the w^aters rufh upwards, the furface of the
bafon immediately over the orifice is greatly fwollen
or raifed a conllderable height ; and then it is
impoflible to keep the boat or any other floating
veflel over the fountain ; but the ebullition quickly
fubfules ; yet, before the furface becomes quite even,
the fountain vomits up the waters again, and fo on
perpetually. The bafoii is generally circular, about
lifty yards over ; and the perpetual flream from it
into the river is twelve or fifteen yards wide, and
ten or twelve feet in depth ; the bafon and dream
continually peopled with prodigious numbers and
variety of filh and other animals ; as the alligator,
and the manate * or fea cow, in the winter feafon.
Part of a fkeleton of one, which the Indians had killed
lait winter, lay upon the banks of the fpring : the
grinding teeth were about an inch in diameter ; the
ribs eighteen inches in length, ?nd two inches and an
half in ihicknefs, bending witli a gentle curve. This
bone is efleemed equal to ivcry. The flefh of this

* Trichscus minatus. '>a Cow,

creature

23© TRAVELS IN

creature is counted wholefome and pleafant food ;
the Indians call them by a name which fignifies the
big beaver. My companion, who was a trader in
Taiahafochte laft winter, faw three of them at one
time in this fpring : they feed chiefly on aquatic
grafs and weeds. The giound round about the head
of the bafon is generally level, for the diitance of
a few yards ; then gradually afcends, forming mode-
rately high hills: the foil at top is a light, grayiih,
fandy mould, which continues fome feet in depth,
lying on a ftratum of yellowifh clay, then clay and
gravel, then fand, and fo on, ftratum upon ftratum,
down to the general foundation of teftaceous rocks.
In other places a deep ftratum of whitifli, chalky
limeftcne. The vegetable productions which cover
and ornament thofe eminences, are generally Live
Oaks, Magnolia grandiflora, in the Creek tongue,
Tolo-chlucco, which fignifies the Big Bay, Laurus
Borbonia or Red Bay, in the Creek tongue, Eto-
jnico, that is King's tree, Olea Americana and Li-
quidambar, with other trees, fhrubs, and herbace-
ous plants common in Eaft Florida.

The hills and groves environing this admirable
fountain, affording amufing fubjedls of inquiry, oc-
cafioned my ftay here a great part of the day ; and
towards evening we returned to the town.

Next day, early in the morning, we croffed the
river, landing on the other ftiore oppofite the tovv^n,
fvvimming our horfes by the fide of the canoe, each
of us holding his horfe by the bridle whilli an Indian
paddled us over. After croiTmg, v/e ftruck off
from the river into the forefts, fometimes falling
into, and keeping for a time, the ancient Spanifh
high road to Penfacola, now almoft obliterated : we
paffed four or five miles through old Spanifh fields.

There

NORTH AMERICA. 23I

There are to be feen plain marks or vefliges of
the old Spanifh plantations and dwellings ; as fence
polls and wooden pillars of their houfes, ditches, and
even corn ridges and Batata hills. From the In-
dian accounts, the Spaniards had here a rich well
cultivated and populous fettlement, and a ftrong
fortified pod, as they likewife had at the favanna
and fields of Capola ; but either of them far infe-
rior to one they had fomc miles farther fouth-wefl
towards the Apalachuchla River, now called the
Apalachcan Old Fields, where yet remain vaft works
and buildings, as fortifications, temples, fome brafs
cannon, mortars, heavy church bells, &c.

The fame groups of whitifh teftaceous rocks and
circular finks, with natural wells, make their ap-
pearance in thefe groves and fields, as obfervcd on
the fide of the river oppofite to Capola ; and the
fame trees, llirubs, and herbage without variation.
Having palled five or fix miles through thefe ancient
fields and groves, the fcene fuddenly changes, after
riding through a high forefi: of Oak, Magnolia,
Fraxinus, Liquidambar, Fagus fylvatica, Sec.

Now at once opens to view, perhaps, the mod
extenfive Cane-break * that is to be i'cen on the face
oi- the whole earth; right forward, about fouth-
weft, there appears no bound but the fkies, the
level plain, like the ocean, uniting with the firma-
ment, and on the right and left hand, dark fliaded
groves, old fields, and high forefts, fuch as we
had lately paficd through.

The alternate bold promontories and mifly points
advancing and retiring, at length, as it were, iufenfi-

f Cane meadows, h calltd by the inhabitants cf Carojiua, <Scc,

biy

232 TRAVELS IN

bly vanifhing from figlit, like the two points of a
crefcent, foftly touching the horizon, rcprefent the
molt magnificent amphitheatre or circus perhaps in
the whole world. The ground defcends gently from
the groves to the edge of the Cane-break, forming
a delightful green graffy lawn. The Canes are
ten or tv/elvc feet in he'ght, and as thick as an or-
dinary walking ftalf; they grow fo clofe together,
there is no penetrating them without previouily cut-
ting a road. We came up to this vaft plain where
the ancient Spaiiifli highway crofTes it to Penfacola :
there vet remain plain veiiiy:es of the 2;rand caufe-
wa-y, Avhich is open like a magnificent avenue, and the
Indians have a bad road or pathway on it. The
ground or foil of the plain is a perfe6lly black, rich,
foapy earth, like a ftiif clay or marie, wet and boggy
near the flipre, but, further in, firm and hard enough,
in the fummer feafon, but wet and in fome places
under vater during the winter.

This vaPc plain, together with the foreifs conti-
guous to it, if permitted (by the Siminoles who are
lovereigns of thefe realms) to be in poll'eflion and
under the culture of indultriuus planters and me-
chanics, would in a little time exhibit other fcenes
than it does at prefent, delightful as it is ; for by
the arts of agriculture and commerce, almofl every
defirable thing in life might be produced and made
plentiful here, and thereby eftablifh a rich, popu-
lous, and delightful region ; as this foil and climate
appears to be of a nature favourable for the pro-
dudion of almofl all the fruits of the earth, as Corn*,
Rice, Indigo, Sugar-cane, Flax, Cotton, Silk, Cochi-
neal, and all the varieties of efculent vegetables ;
gnd I fuppofe no part of the earth uiibrds fuch end-

* Zca,

lefs

NORTH AMERICA, 233

Ids range and exuberant pafture for cattle, deer,
iliccp, <?cc. : the waters everywhere, even in the
holes in the earth, abound vith varieties oi excellent
fiih ; and the foreds and nr.tive meauows with wild
game, as bear, deer, turkeys, quail, and in the win-
ter feafon geefe, ducks, and other f-jwl : ajid lying
contiguous to one oF the moll b'^auLiful, i:avigablc
rivers in the world, and not more than thirty miles
jfrom St. Mark's on the great bay of Mexico, is molt
conveniently fituated for the Weft India trade and
Xhe commerce of all the world.

After indulging my imagination i:i the contem-
plation of thefe grand diverfified fcenes, we turned
to the right hand, riding over the charming green
terrace dividing the forefts from the plains, and then
entering the groves again, continued eight or nine
miles up the river, four or five miles dilfance from
its banks ; having continually in view, on one fide
or other, expanfive green fields, groves, and hicrh
forefts ; the meadows glittering with diitant lakes
and ponds, alive with cattle, deer, and turkeys, and
frequently prefenting to view remains of ancient
Spanifli plantations. At length, towards cvenino-,
we turned about, and came within fight of the river
where falling on the Indian trading path, we conti-
nued along it to the landing-place oppolite the town,
when hallooing and difcharging our pieces, an Indian
with a canoe came prcl'ently over, and condudcd us
to the town before dark.

On our anival at the trading houfe, our chief
was vilited by the head men of the town, when
inOantly the White King's , arrival in town wa*
announced : a mellenger had before been lent in to
prepare a fcalL the king and his retinue havino-
killed fevcral bears. A fire was now kindled in the

ar2a

234

Travels in

area of the public fquare ; the royal flandard was
difplayed, and the drum beat to give notice lo the
town of the royal feaft.

The ribs and the choice pieces of the three great
fat bears already well barbe-.iied or broiled, were
brought to the banquetting houfe in the fqiiaie, with
hot bread ; and honeyed water for drink.

When the feaft was over in the fquare (where
only the chiefs and warriors were admitted, with
the white people, the chief prieft, attended by
Haves, came with bafliets and carried off the re-
mainder of the viduals, &c. which was diftributed
nmongft the families of the town. The king then
withdrew, repairing to the council-houfe in the
fquare, v/hither the chiefs and warriors, old and
young, and iuch of the whites as chofe, repaired
alfo ; the king, war chief, and feveral ancient chiefs
and warriors were feated on the royal cabins ; the
reft of the head men and warriors, old and young,
fat on the cabins on the right hand of the king's :
the cabins or feats on the left, and on the fame ele-
vation, are always afligned for the white people,
Indians of oiher towns, and fuch of their own people
as choofe.

Our chief, with the reft of the white people in
town, took their feats according to order : tobacco
and pipes were brought ; the calumet was lighted and
fmoaked, circulating according to the ufud forms
and ceremony ; and afterwards black diink con-
clude the feaft. The king converfed, drank caf-
fme, and afibciated familiarly with his people and
with us.

After the public entertainment was over, the
young people began their mufic and dancing in the

fquare,

NORTH AMERICA.

•JD

fquare, whither the young of both fexes repaired, as
v/ell a;? the old and middle aged : this frolick conti-
nued all night.

The White King of Talahafochte is a middle aged
man, of moderate flature ; and though of a lofty and
majellic countenance and deportment, yet I am con-
vinced this dignity, which really I'eems graceful, is
not the effeft of vain fupercilious pride, for his fmil-
ing countenance and his cheerful familiarity befpeak
magnanimity and benignity.

Next a council and treaty was held. They rc-
quefted to have a trading houfe again eftablifhed in
the town, afluring us that every pollible means fhould
conflantly be purfued to prevent any difturbancc in
future on their part ; they informed us that the mur-
derers of M'Gee * and his afibciates were to be put
to death, that two of them were already fhot, and
they were in purfuit of the other.

Our chief trader in anfwer informed them, that
the re-eflablifliment of friendiliip and trade was the
chief objed of his vifit, and that he was happy to
find his old friends of lalahafochte in the fame good
difpofition, as they ever were towards him and the
white people ; tliat it was his wifli to trade with
them, and that he was now come to colletSl his pack-
horfes to bring them goods. The king and the
chiefs having been already acquainted with my bu-
fmcfs and pr.rfuits aniongft them, received me very
kindly J the Idng in particular complimented me,

• M'Gee v/as the leader of a r-.n-sily of white people from Georgia def-
tined acrofs the illhnuis, to the Mobile river : they travelled on horfcback
as far as this town, v/herc tl ;y procured Ci.noc5 of the Ir.didns, continuing
their travels, defcendinp the nvcr and coaf^.ing the main S. W, ; hut at
night, when on fhcre livinting provifiohs, their camp wis farprifed and
attacked by a picd:itory band of Indians, who flew M'Gee and the refl of
the men, and curried oiTthe piundcr and a vvouian to their towns.

23-6 TRAVELS IN

faying that I was as one of his own children cr peo-
ple, and fliculd be protected accordingly, while I
remained with them, adding, " Our whole country
is before you, where you may range about at plea-
fure, gather phyfic plants and flowers, and every
other production :" thus the treaty terminated friend-
lily and peaceably.

Next day early in the morning we left the town
axid the river, in order to fix our encampment in
the forefts about twelve miles from the river ; our
companions with the pack-horfes went a-head to the
place of rende^zvous, and our chief conduced me
another way to fhow me a very curious place, call-
ed the Alligator-Role, which was lately formed by
an extraordinary eruption or jet of water. It is
one of thofe vail circular finks, -vvhich we beheld
almoft every where about us as we traverfed thefe
forelts, after we left the Alachua favanna. This
remarkable one is on the verge of a fpacious mea-
dow, thefurface of the ground round about uneven
by means of gentle rifmg knolls : fome detached
groups of rocks and large fpreading live oaks fhade
it on every fide : it is about fixty yards over, and
the furface of the w^ater fix or feven feet below the
rim of the funnel or baibn : the v/ater is tranfparent,
cool, and pleafant to drink, and well flored with
fiih ; a very large alligator at prefcnt is lord or chief;
many have been killed here, but the throne is never
long vacant, the vaft neighbouring ponds fo abound
with them.

The account that this gentleman, who was an
eye-witncfs of the lafi: eruption, gave me of its firft
appearance, being very wonderful, I proceed to re-
late what he told me whilfl: we were in town, which
was confirmed by the Indians, and one or more of

our

NORtH AMERICA. 237

otir companions, who alfo faw its progrefs, as well as
by my own obfervatlons after I came to the ground.

This trader being near the place (before it had
any vifible eiviftence in its prefent appearance),
about three years ago, as he wai5 looking for fome
horfes which he expelled to find in thefe parts,
on a fudden v/as aftonifl-icd by an inexprelliblc
rufliing noif^, like a mighty hurricane or thunder
Ilorm ; and looking round, he faw the earth over-
flowed by torrents cf water, which came, wave
after wave, ruihing down a vale or plain very near
him, which it filled with water, and foon began to
overwhelm the higher grounds, attended with a
terrific noife and tremor of the earth. Recovering
from his firft furprife, he immediately refolved to
proceed for the place from whence the noife feemed
to come ; and foon came in fight of the incompar-
able fountain, and fiuv, with amazement, the floods
rufliing upwards many feet high, and the expand-
ing waters, which prevailed every way, fpread-
ing themfelves far and near. He at length conclud-
ed (he faid) that the fountains of the deep were
again broken up, and that an univerfal deluge had
commenced ; and inftantly turned about and fled
to alarm the town, about nine miles diflance : but
before he could reach it, he met feveral of the
inhabitants, who already alarmed by the unufual
noife, were hurrying on towards the place ; upon
which he returned with the Indians, taking their
ftand on an eminence to watch its progrefs and the
event. It continued to jet and flow in this manner
for feveral days, forming a large, rapid creek or
river, defccnding and following the various courfe.^
and windings of the valley, for the diflance of feven
or eight miles, emptying itfelf into a vafl: favanna,

where

238 TRAVELS IN

where was a lake and fmk which received and gave
vent to its waters.

The fountain, however, gradually ceafed to over-
flow, and finally withdrew itfelf beneath the com-
mon furface of the earth, leaving this capacious ba-
fon of waters, "^hich, though continually near full,
hath never fince overflowed. There yet remains,
and will, I fuppofe, remain for ages, the dry bed ot
the river or canal, generally four, five, and fix feet
below the natural furface of the land j the perpendi-
cular, ragged banks of which, on each fide, Ihow
the different ftrata of the earth ; and at places, where
ridges or a fwelling bank crolfed and oppofed its
courfe and fury, are vaft heaps of fragments of
rocks, white chalk, flones, and pebbles, which were
collected and thrown into the lateral vallies, until
the main flream prevailed over and forced them
afide, overflowing the levels and meadows, for fome
niiles diflance from the principal ftream, on either
fide. We continued down the great vale, along its
banks, quite to the favanna and lake where it vent-
ed itfelf, while its ancient fubterranean channel was
gradually opening, which, I imagine, from fome hid-
den event or caufe had been choaked up, and which,
we may fuppofe, was the immediate caufe of the
eruption.

In the evening, having gained our encampment,
on a graffy knoll or eminence, under the cover of
fpreading oaks, juft by the grotto or fink of the lake,
which lay as a fparkling gem on the flowery bo-
fom of the ample favanna ; our roving -aflTociates
foon came in from the ranging fbrefts. We conti-
nued our encampment at this place for feveral days,
ranging around the delightful country to a great dif-

tance,

NORTH AMERICA. 239

tance, every day's excurfion prefenting new fcencs
of wonder and delight.

Early in the morning our chief invited mc with
him on a vifit to the town, to take a final leave of"
the White King. We were gracioufly received
and treated with the utmoll civility and hofpita-
lity : there was a noble entertainment and repalt
provided againfl our arrival, confiding of bear's ribs,
venifon, varieties of fifli, roafted turkies (which
they call the white man's difli), hot corn cakes, and
a very agreeable, cooling fort of jelly, which they
call conte : this is prepared from the root of the
China briar (Smilax pfeudo-China ; Sinilax afpera,
frudu nigro, radice nodofa, magna, laevi, farinacea;
Sloan, torn. i. p. 31. t. 143. f. i. habit. Jamaica,
Virginia, Carolina, and Florida) : they chop the
roots in pieces, which are afterwards well pounded
in a wooden mortar, then being mixed with clean
water, in a tray or trough, they llrain it through
bafkets ; the fediment, which fettles to the bottom
of the fecond velTel, is afterwards dried in the open
air : and is then a very fine reddiih flour or meal : a
fmall quantity of this mixed with warm water and
fweetcncd with honey, when cool, beconies a beau-
tiful, delicious jelly, very nourifliing and wholefome.
They alfo mix it with fine corn fiour, which being
fried in frefii bear's oil makes very good hot cakes
or fritters.

On our taking leave of the king and head men,
they entreated our chief to repreient to the w.hite
people, their unfeigned defire to bury in oblivion
the late breech of amity and intermiliion of com-
merce, which they trufted would never be refiefted
on the people of Talahafetche ; and, lafUy, that we

would

L

240 TRAVELS IN

would fpeedily return with merchandize as hereto-
fore ; all which was cheerfully confented to, afluiinj^
them their wilhes and fentiments fully coincided with
ours.

The chief trader, intending to fliew me fome re-
markable barren plains, on our return to our en-
campment, about noon we fat off: when we cainc
within fight of them, I was flruck with afloniih-
ment at their dreary appearance ; the view South-
erly feemed endlefs waftes, prefenting rocky, gra-
velly and frndy barren plains, producing fcarcely
any vegetable fubflances, except a few flirubby
ciooked Pine trees, growing out of heaps of white
rocks, which reprefented ruins of villages, planted
over the plains ; with clumps of mean flirubs, which
ferved only to perpetuate the perfecuting pgwer
and rage of fire, and to teflify the aridity of the
foil. 'J'he fhrubs I obferved were chiefly the fol-
lov.'ing ; Myrica ccrifera, two or three varieties, one
of which is very dwarfifli, the leaves fmall, yet
toothed or finuated, of a yellowi^fh green colour,
owing to a farinaceous pubefcence or veficula which
covers their furfaces ; Piinos, varieties, Andromeda
ferruginea, Andr. nitida, varieties, Rhamnus fran-
gula, Sideroxylon fcricium, Ilex aquifoiium. Ilex
inyrtifolium, Empetrum, Kalmia ciliata, Caffine, and
a great variety of ihrub Oaks, evergreen and deci-
duous, fome of them fmgularly beautiful ; Cory-
pha repens ; with a great variety ol herbage, par-
ticularly Cacaha, Prenanthus, Chryfocoma, Ilcli-
anthus, Silphium, Lobelia, Giobularia, Hcienium,
Polvgala, varieties:, Clinopodium, Cadus, various
fpecles, Enphoibia, various fpecies, Afclepias car-
nofa, very beautiful and fingular, Sophora, Dlan-
tb.us, (Uf'cU^, Slfymhrium, Pedicuiaris, Gerardia,

Lechea,

NORTH AMERICA. 241

Lechea, Gnaphalium, Smilax farfaparUla, Smilax
pumila, Solidago, After, Lupiiius fiiifolius, Galega,
Hedyfarum, ^c. with various fpecies of gralVes.
But there appeared vaft fpecies of gravel and plains
of flat rocks, juP" even with the furrace of the earth,
which fecmed entirely deftitute of any vegetation,
unlefs we may except i'omc different kinds of moffes
of the cruftaceous forts, as lichen, alga, &c. and
coralloides. After palling fevcral miles on the
borders of thefe deferts, frequently alighting on
them for obfervation and making collections, they
at length gradually united or joined with infinite
favannas and ponds, ihetching beyond the fight
foutherly, parallel with the rocky barrens ; being
feparated only by a narrow, low, rocky ridge of
open groves, confifting of low, fpreading Live
Oaks, Zanthoxylon, Ilex, Sideroxylon, &c. ; and
here and there, ftanding either in groups or alone, the
pompous Palm tree, glorioufly ereft or gracefully
bowing towards the earth ; exhibiting a moft pleaf-
ing contraft and wild Indian fcene of primitive un-
modified nature, ample and magnificent. We at
length came abreaft of the expanfive, glittering
lake, which divided the ample meadows, one end
of which flretching towards a verdant eminence,
formed a Httle bay, which was partly encircled by
groups of white chalky rocks, (haded with Live Oaks,
Bays, Zanthoxylon and Palm trees. We turned our
horfes to graze in the green lawns, whilft we tra-
verfed the groves and meadows. Here the palmated
Convolvulus trailed over the rocks, with the He-
dera carnofa (fol. quinatis incifo-ferratis, perennen-
tibus), and the fantaftic Clitoria, decorating the
flirubs with garlands (CUt. caule volubili fol. terna-
tis pennatifque, flor. majore cacruleo, vexillo rotun-
diore, liiiquis Icngiffimis compreflis).

R Soon

Zj^2 travels I>J

Soon after entering the forcfts, we were met in
the path by a fmall company of Indians, fmiling
and beckoning to us long before we jomed them.
This was a family of Talahafochte who had been
cut on a hunt, and were returning home loaded
with barbecued meat, hides and honey. Their com-
pany confifted of the man, his wife and children^
well mounted on fine horfes, with a number of
pack-horfes. The man prefently offered us a fawn-
Ikin of honey, which we gladly accepted, and at
parting I prelented him with fome fifli hooks, few-
ing needles, &c, ; for in my travels amongfl: the In-
dians, I always furiiifhed myfelf with fuch ufeful
and acceptable little articles of light carriage, for
prefents. We parted, and before night rejoined
our companion at the Long Pond.

On our return to camp In the evening, we were
faluted by a party of young Indian warriors, who
had pitched their camp on a green eminence near
the lake, and at a fmall diftance from our camp,
under a little grove of Oaks and Palms. This
company confilled of izYtn young Siminoles, under
the conduct of a young prince or chief of Talaha-
fochte, a town fouthward in the ifthmus. They were
aJl drelfed and painted with fingular elegance, and
richly ornamented with fjlver plates, chains, he.
after the Siminole mode, with waving plumes of
feathers on their crefls. On our coming up to
them, they arofc and fliook hands ; we alighted and
fat a Vkliile with them by their cheerful fire.

The young prince informed our chief that he
was in purfuit of a young fellow, who had fled
from the town, carrying off with him one of his fa-
vourite young wives or concubines. He faid mer-
rily he would have the ears of both of them before

he

NORTH AMERICA. 243

he returned. He was rather above the middle fta-
ture, and the moft perf'c£l human figure I ever
faw ; of an amiable engaging countenance, air and
deportment ; free and familiar in convriifation, yet
retaining a bt;coming gracefulnefs and aij;nity. \7e
arofe, took leave of them and crofled a little vale
covered with a charming green turf, already illu-
minated by the foft light of the full moon.

Soon after joining our companions at camp, our
neighbours, the prince and his alTociates, paid us a
vifit. We treated them with the belt fare we had,
having till this time preferved fome of our fpiritu-
ous liquors. They left us with perfecl cordiality and
cheerfulnefs, wiihing us a good repofe, and retired
to their own camp. Having a band of mufic with
them, confifling of a drum, flutes, and a rattle
gourd, they entertained us during the night with
their mufic, vocal and inftrumental.

There is a languifliing foftnefs and melancholy
air in the Indian convivial longs, efpecially of the
amorous clafs, irrefiftibly moving, attractive, and
exquifitely pleafing, efpecially in thefe foUtary re-
celies, when all nature is fi lent.

Behold how gracious and beneficent fhines the
rofeate morn ! Now the fun arifes and fills the plains
with light ; his glories appear on the forefis, encom-
paffing the meadows, and gild rhe top of the tere-
binthine Pine and exalted Palms, now gently ruf-
tling by the preflure of the waking breezes : the
mufic of the feraphic cranes refounds in the fi-;ies';
in feparate fquadrons they fail, encircling their pre-
cinds, flowly defcend beating the denfe air, and
alight on the green dewy verge of the expanfive
lake J its furface yet finoking with the gray af-

R 2 cending

244 TRAVELS IN

cending mifls, which, condcnfed aloft In clouds of
vapour, are borne away by the morning breezes, and
at laft gradually vanifh on the diftant horizon. AH
nature awakes to life and acliviiy.

The ground, during our progrefs this nrorning,
every where about us prefented to view thofe fun-
nels, fmks and wells in groups of rocks, amidfl; the
groves, as already recited.

Near our next encampment, one more confpicuous
than I had elfewhere obferved prefenting itfelf, I
took occalion from this favourable circumftance of
cbferving them in all their variety of appearances.
Its cuter fuperficial margin was fifty or fixty yards^
over, which equally and uniformly on every fide
fioped downwards towards the centre : on one fide
of it was a confiderable path-way or road leading
down to the water, worn by the frequent refort of
wild creatures for drink, when the waters were
rifen even or above the rocky bed, but at this time
thev were funk many vards below the furface of the
earth. We defcended firfl to the bed of rocks,
which was perforated with perpendicular tubes, ex-
ac"l:ly like a walled well, four, live, or fix feet in di-
ameter, and may be compared to cells in an honey-
comb, through which appeared the water at bot-
tom : many of thcfe were broken or worn one into
another, forming one vafl well with uneven walls,
confifting of projecting jams, pilaltres, or buttrefles,
and excavated femicircular niches, as if a piece
were taken out of a honey-comb : the bed of rocks
h, from fifteen to twenty feet deep or in thicknefs,
though not of one Iblid mafs, but of many, gene-
rally hoiizontal, laminae, or flrata, of various thick-
nefs, from eighteen inches to two or three feet ;
which admit water to weep through, trickling down,

drop

NORTH AMERICA. 24^

drop after drop, or chafing each other in winding
little rills down to the bottom. One fide of the
vafl cool grotto was fo fliattered and broken in, I
thought it poffible to defcend down to the water at
bottom ; and my companion alluring me that the
Indians and traders frequently go down for drink,
encouraged me to make the attempt, as he agreed
to accompany me.

Having provided ourfelves with a long fnagged
fapling, called an Indian ladder, and each of us a
pole, by the affiftance of thefe we both defcended
fafely to the bottom, which we found nearly level
and not quite covered over with water ; on one fide
was a bed of gravel and fragments of rocks or iTones,
and on the other a pool of water near two feet deep,
which moved with a flow current under the walls on
a bed of clay and gravel.

After our return to the furface of the earth, I
again ranged about the groves and grottos, examin-
ing a multitude ot them. Being on the margin of
one in the open foreit, and obferving fome curious
vegetable produdions growing on the fide of the
Hoping funnel towards its centre, the furface of the
ground covered with grafs and herbage ; unappre-
henfive of danger, I defcended precipitately towards
the group of fhrubs ; when 1 was furprifed and
providentially flopped in my career, at the ground
founding hollow under my feet; and obferving
chafms thiough the ground, I quickly drew bark,
and returning again with a pole with which I beat
in the earth, to my aflonifliment and dread ap-
peared the mouth of a well through tlie rocks, and
I obferved the water gUmmering at the bottom.
Being wearied with excurfions, we returned to our
pleafant filuation on the yergc of the lawn.

Next

246 TRAVELS IN

Next day v/e fct off on our retarn to the lower
trading-houfe, propofmg to encamp at a favanna,
about twelve miles diilance from this, where we
were to halt again and flay a day or two, in order
to colled together aiother party of horfes, which
had been ftationed about that range. The young
wild horfes often breaking from the company, ren^
dered our progrefs flow and troublcfome ; we how-
ever arrived at the appointed place long before
night.

1 had an opportunity this day of collecling a va-
riety of fpecimens and feeds of vegetables, fome of
which appeared new to me, particularly Sophora,
Cifrus, Tradefcantia, Hypoxis, latropa, Gerardai,
Pedicularis, Mimofa fenfitiva, Helonias, Melan-
thlum, Lilium, Aletris, Agave, Cactus, Zamia,
Empetrum, Erythryna, Echium, &c.

Next day, I he people being again engaged In
their bufinefs of ranging the forefts and plains, in
fcarch of their horfes, 1 accompanied them, and In
our rambles we again vifited the great favanna and
lake, called the Long Pond : the lake is nearly in
the middle of the fpacious lawn, of an oblong form ;
above two miles wide and feven in length ; one end
approachingthe high green banks adjoining the fo-
refts, where there is an (enchanting grove and grot-
to of pellucid waters, inhabited with multitudes of
fifli, continually afccnding and defcending through
the clean, white rocks. Hoping from the green
verged (hore, by gradual fteps, from fmooth, ^fiat
pavements wafhed by the fwelling undulations of
the waters.

Arrived in the evening at camp, where we found
the reft of our companions buhly employed in fe-

curinc;

NORTH AMERICA. £47

curing the young freakifh horfes. The next day
v/as employed in like manner, breaking and tutor-
ing the young fteeds to their duty. The day fol«
lowing we took a final leave of this land of rhca-
dows, lakes, groves and grottos, direding our couris
for the trading path. Having traverfed a country,
in appearance, little diifering from the region ly-
ing upon Little St. Juan, we gained about twelve
miles on our way ; and in the evening encamped on
a narrow ridge, dividing two favannxs ^frcm each
other, near the edge of a deep pond ; here our peo-
ple made a large pen or pound to fecure their v.ild
horfes during the night. There was a little hom-
mock or iflet containing a few acres of high ground,
at fome didance from the (liore, in the drowned
favanna, almoif every tree of which was loaded with
nefls of various tribes of water fowl, as ardea alba,
ar. violacea, ar. ccrulca, ar. ffcllaris crifLita, ar.
ftellaris maxima, ar. virefcens, colymbus, tantalus,
mergus and others; thefe nefls were all alive with
young, generally ahnoll full grown, not yet Hedg-
ed, but covered with whitiOi .or .cream coloured
foft down. We vifited this bird ifle, and fome of
our people taking flicks or poles with ihem, foon
beat down, and loaded themfelves with thefe fquabs,
and returned to camp ; they were almofl a lump of
fat, and made us a rich fupper ; fome we roafted.
and made others into a pilloe with rice : mofl o'i
them, except the bitterns and tantali, were fo ex-
celTiveiy fifhy in tafle and fmelj, I could not reliih
ihem. It is incredible what prodigious numbers
there were, old and young, on this iittle iflet, and
the confufed noife which they kept up continually,
the young crying for food inceflantly, even whilft
in their throats, and the old alarmed and difpleafed
vX our near rrfulcnce, and the depredations wc had

^4^ TRAVELS IN

made upon them ; their various languages, cries,
and fluttering cauled an inexpreflible uproar, like x
public fair or market in a populous trading city,
when fudde'nly furprifed by lome unexpected cala-
mitous event.

About midnight, having fallen afleep, I was-
awakened and greatly furprifed at finding moft of
my companions up in arms, and furioufly engaged
with a large alligator but a few yards from me.
One of our company, it feems, awoke in the
night, and perceived the monfter within a few
paces of the camp, when giving the alarm to the
red, they readily came to his altiftance, for It was
a rare piece of fport. Some took fire-brands and
call them at his head, whilft others formed javelins
of faplins, pointed and hardened with fire ; thefe
they thruft down his throat into his bowels, which
caufed the monfter to roar and bellow hideoufly y
but his llrength and fury were fo great, that he eafily
wrenched or twilled them out of their hands, and
wielding and brandifhing them about, kept his ene-
mies at a diftance for a tirae. Some were for put-
ting an end to his life and fufferings with a rifle
ball, but the majority thought this would too foon
deprive them of the diverfion and pleafure of ex-
ercifmg their various inventions of torture : they
at length however grew tired, and agreed in one
opinion, that he had fuffered fufficiently ;. and put
an end to his exiftence. This crocodile was about
twelve feet in length : we fuppoied that he had
been allured by the filhy fcent of our birds, and
encouraged to undertake and purfue this hazardous
adventure which cod him his life. This, with
other inftances already recited, may be fufficient to
prove the intrepidity and fubtilty of thofe voracious,
jormidable animals.

NORTH AMERICA. 14^

We fat off early next morning, and foon after
falling into the trading path, accompliflied about
twenty miles of our journey ; and in the evening
encamped as ufual, near the banks of favannas and
ponds, for the benefit of water and accommodations
of pafture for our creatures. Next day we pafled
over part of the great and beautiful Alachua Savan-
na, whofe exuberant green meadows, with the fer-
tile hills which immediately encircle it, would, if
peopled and cultivated after the manner of the ci-
vilized countries of Europe, without crowding or
inconmioding families, at a moderate eftimation,
accommodate in the happieft manner above one
hundred rhoufand human inhabitants, befides mil-
lions of domeitic animals ; and I make no doubt
this place will at fome futuie day be one of the moll
populous and delightful feats on earth.

We came to camp in the evening, on the banks
of a creek but a few miles diflance from Cufcowil-
la ; and two days more moderate travelling brought
\is fafe back again to the lower trading-houfe, on
St. Juan, having been bleffcd with health and a
profpcrous journey.

On my arrival at the (lores, I was happy to find
all well as we had left them ; and our bringing with
us friendly talks from the Siminolc towns, and the
Nation likewife, completed the hope^ and wifhes
of the ti ading company, with relpect to their com-
mercial concerns with the Indians, which, as the
cheering hght of the fun-beams after a dark tem-
peftuous night, difiufcd joy and conviviality through-
out the little community, where were a number of
men with their families, who had been put out of
employment and fubfidence, anxioufly waiting the
happv event.

CHAP.

ZL^e TRAVELS IN

CHAP. viir.

As a loading could not be procured until late in
the autumn, for the fchooner that was to return to
Georgia, this circumftance allowed me time and
ppportiinity to continue my excurfions in this land
of flowers, as well as at the fame tirne to augment
my colle(5lions of feeds, growing roots, &c.

I refolved upon another"^ li'tle voyage up the
river; and after reding a tew days and refitting my
bark, 1 got on board the necelfary (lores, and fur-
nifhing myfelf with boxes to plant roots in, with
my fuzee, ammunition and fifliing tackle, I fet fail,
and in the evening arrived at Mount Royal. Next
morning, being moderately calm and ferene, I fet
fail with a gentle leading breeze, which delight7
fully wafted me acrofs the lake to the wefl coafl,
landing on an airy, fandy beach, a pleafant, cool
fituation, where I paiTed the night, but not without
frequent attacks from the mufquitoes ;, and next day
vifited the Great Springs, where I remained until
the fucceeding day, increafing my colie(5lions of fpe-
cimens, feeds and roots ; and then recroffed the lake-
to the eaftern fiiore. This fliore is generally bolder
and more rocky than the Vv^eflern, it being expofed
to the lafii of the furf, occafioned by the W. and
N. W. winds, which are briik and conftanc from
nine or ten o'clock in the morning till towards mid^
night, almofl: the year round ; though the S. winds
are'confiderable in the fpring, and by fliort inter-
vals during the fummer and v^^inter ; and the N. E.
though fometimes very violent in ihc fpring and

autumn.

NORTH AMERICA. 35I

autumn, does not continue long. The day was
employed in coalUng llo'.vly, and making collec-
tions. In the evening I made a harbour under co-
ver of a long point of flat rocks, which defended
the mole from the lurf. Having fafely moored my
bark, and chofcn my camping ground jufl by, dur-
ing the fme evening I reconnoitred the adjacent
groves and lawns. Here is a deferted plantation,
the property of Dr. Stork, where he once refided.
I obferved many lovely llirubs and plants in the old
fields and Orange groves, particularly feveral fpe-
cies of Convolvulus and Ipomea, the former having
very large, white, fweet fcented flowers : they are
great ramblers, climbing and drolling on the flirubs
and hedges. Next morning 1 re-embarked, and
continued traverfmg the bold coaft north-eafbward,
and fearching the fliorcs at all convenient landings,
where I was amply rewarded for my afiiduity in the
fociety of beauties in the blooming realms of Flo-
rida. Came to again, at an old deferted planta-
tion, the property of a Britifii gentleman, but feme
years fmce vacated. A very fpacious frame build-
ing was fettling to the ground and mouldering to
earth. Here are very extenfive old helds, where
were growing the Well-Indian or perennial Cotton
and Indigo, which had been cultivated here, and
fome icattered remains of the ancient orange groves,
which had been left landing at the clearing of the
plantation.

I have often been afFecled with extreme regret,
at beholding the dellrudion and devaflaiion which
has been committed or indifcreetly exercifed on
thofe extenfive fruitful Orange groves, on the banks
of St. juan, by the ne\v planters under the Britifli
government, fome hundred acres of which, at a

fmgle

45* TRAVELS IN

fmgle plantation, have been entirely deftroyed, to
make room for the indigo, Cotton, Corn, Batatas,
&c. or, as they fay, to extirpate the mufquitoes, al-
ledging that groves near the dwellings are haunts
and Ihelters for thofe perfecuting infefts. Some plan-
tations have not a fingle tree ftanding ; and where
any have been left, it is only a fmall copp'^e or clump,
nakedly expofed and deftitute ; perhay/^ nfty or an
hundred trees (landing near the dwelling-houfe, hav-
ing no lofty cool grove of expanfive Live Oaks,
Laurel Magnolias, and Palms, to fliade and protect
them, exhibiting a mournful, fallow countenance ;
their native perfeclly formed and gloffy green fo-
liage as if violated, defaced and torn to pieces by
the bleak winds, fcorched by the burning fun-beams
in fummer, and chilled by the winter frofls.

In the evening I took up my quarters in the beau-
tiful ifle in fight of Mount Royal. Next day, af-
ter coUecling what was new and worthy of particu-
lar notice, I fet fail again, and called by the way at
Mount Royal. In the evening arrived fafe at the
ftores, bringing along with me valuable colledions.

CHAP.

NORTH AMERICA. 253

CHAP. IX.

At the trading-houfe I found a very large party
of the Lower Creeks encamped in a grove, jult
without the pallifadoes. This was a predatory band
of the Siminoles, confifting of about forty warriors
deflined againlt the Chaftaws of Weft Florida. They
had juft arrived here from St. Auf^uftine, where
they had been with a large troop of horfes for fale,
and furnifhed themfelves with a very liberal fup-
ply of fpirituous liquors, about twenty kegs, each
containing five gallons.

Thefe fons of Mars had the continence and for-
titude to withftand the temptation of even tafting
a drop of it until their arrival here, where they
purpofed to fupply themfelves with neceflary arti-
cles to equip them for the expedition, and pro-
ceed on dircdly ; but here meeting with our young
traders and pack-horfe men, they were foon pre-
vailed on to broach their beloved nedar ; which in
the end caufed fome difturbance, and the confump-
tion of moft of their liquor ; for after they had once
got a fmack of it, ihcy never were fober for ten
days, and by that time there was but little left.

In a few days this feflival exhibited one of the
moft ludicrous bacchanalian fcenes that is pollible
to be conceived. White and red men and wo-
men without diftindion, palled the day merrily with
thefe jovial, amorous topers, and the nights in con-
vivial fongs, dances, and facritices to Venus, as long
as they could ftand or move ; for in thefe frolicks
both fexes take fuch liberties with each other, and

ad.

1i^4 TRAVELS IN

ad, without conflraint or fliame, fuch fcenes as the/
would abhor when fober or in their fenfes ; and
would endanger their ears and even their lives :
but at laft their liquor running low, and being
mod of them fick through intoxication, they be-
came more fober ; and now the dejedied lifelefs
fots would pawn, every thing they were in pof-
feffion of, for a mouthful of fpirits to fettle their
iiomachs, as they termed it. This was the time
for the wenches to make their market, as they hc-d
the fortitude and fubtilty by diffimulation and arti-
fice to fave their fliare of the liquor during the
frolick, and that by a very fmgular ftratagem j for,
at thefe riots, every fellow who joins in the club,
has his own quart bottle of rum in his hand, hold-
ing it by the neck fo fure, that he never loofes hold
of it day or night, drunk or fober, as long as the
frolick continues ; and with this, his beloved friend,
he roves about continually, fmging, roaring, and
reeling to and fro, either alone, or arm in arm with
a brother toper, prefenting his bottle to every one,
oflering a drink ; and is fure to meet his beloved
female if he can, whom he complaifantly begs to
drink with him. But the modelf fair, veiling her
face in a mantle, refufes, at the beginning of the
frolick ; but he prelfes and at laft infills. She being
furniflied with an empty bottle, concealed in her
mantle, at lad confents, and taking a good long
draught, blullics, drops her pretty face on her bo-
fom, and artfully difcharges the rum into her bot-
tle, and by repeating this artifice foon fills it :
this (he privately conveys to her fecret (lore, and
then returns to the jovial game, and fo on during
the feftival ; and when the comic farce is over,
the wench retails this precious cordial to them at her
own price.

There

NORTH AMERICA. 2^^

There were a few of the chiefs, particularly the
Long Warrior their leader, who had the prudence
and fortitude to refifl the aUuring temptation during
the whole farce ; but though he was a povVcrful chief,
a king, and a very cunning man, he was not able
to controul thefe madmen, althoug^h he was ac-
knowledged by the Indians to have communion
with powerful invifible beings or fpirits, and on
that account efteemed worthy of homage and great
refpect.

After the Indians became fober, they began to
prepare for their departure. In the morning early
the Long Warrior and chiefs fent a melfenger to
Mr. M'Latche, defning to have a talk with him
upon matters of moment : accordingly, about noon
they arrived. The conference was held in the piazza
of the council houfe : the Long Warrior and chiefs
who attended him, took their feats upon a long
bench ad reining the fide or front of the houfe, reach-
ing the whole length of it, on one hand ; and the
principal white traders on the other, all on the
fame feat. I was ailmitted at this conference ; Mr.
M'Latche and the Long Warrior fat next to each
other ; my late companion, the old trader, and my-
felf fat next to him.

The Long Wanior fpake, faying, that he and
his companions were going to light their ene-
mies the Chadaws ; and that fome of his affociates
being in want of blankets, fliirts, and fome other
articl'-S, they declined fupplyiug themfelves v.ith
them at St. Augufline, becaufe they had rather. flick
clofe to tiieir old friend Mr. Spalding, and bring
their bucklkins, furs, and other produce of their
country (which they knew were acceptable) to

25^ TRAVLLS hV

his trading houfe, to purchafe what they wanted.
But not having the {kins, &c. with them to pay for
fuch things as they had occafion for, they doubt-
ed not, but that on their return, they fliould bring
with them fujflicient not only to pay their debts,
about to be contraded, but be able to make other
conhderable purchafes, as the principal object of
this expedition was hunting on the plentiful borders
of the Chadaws. Mr. M'Latche hefitating, and
expreffing fome diflatisfadion at his requefl ; par-
ticularly at the length of time and great uncer-
tainty of obtaining pay for the goods ; and moreover
his being only an agent for Meilrs. Spalding and Co.
and the magnitude and unprecedented terms of the
Long Warrior's demands ; required the company's
aflent and directions before he could comply with
their requeft.

This anfwer difpleafed the Indian chief, and I
obferved great agitation and tumult in his paffions,
from his adions, hurry and rapidity of fpeech and
expreilion. The old interpreter who fat by alked
me if I fully underftood the debate ; I anfwered that
I apprehended the Long Warrior was difpleafed ;
he told me he was fo, and then recapitulated what
had been faid refpecting his queftions and Mr.
M'Latche's anfwer ; adding, that upon his hefitation
he immediately replied, in feeming difguft and
great exprelfions of anger, " Do you prefume to
refufe me credit ; certainly you know who I am
and what power I have : but perhaps ycu do not
know, that if the matter required it, and I pleafed,
I could command and caufe the terrible thun-
der * now rolling in the {kies above, to defcend

* It thundered, lightened, and rained in a violent manner during ihefe I
debates.

Upon

NORTH AMERICA. 257

Upon your head, in rapid fiery fliafts, and by you
proftrate at my feet, and confume your (tores,
turning them inttantly into dud and alhes.'* Mr.
M'Latche cahnly replied, that he was fully fenn-
ble that the Long Warrior was a great mm, a
powerful chief of the bands of the refpeftable Si-
minolcs, that his name was terrible to his ene-
mies, but flill he doubted if any man upon earth,
had fuch power, but rather believed that thunder
and lightning was under the direction of the Grcut
Spirit ; but however, fmce we are not difpofed to
deny your power, fupcrnatural influence and inter-
courfc with the elements and fpiritual agents, or
withhold the refpeft and homage due to fo great a
prince of the Slminoles, friends and allies to the
white people ; if you think fit now in the prefence
of us all here, command and caufe yon terrible
thunder with its rapid fiery fliafts, to defcend upon
the top of that Live Oak* in front of us, rend it in
pieces, fcatter his brawny limbs on the earth and
confume them to afnes before our eyes, we will
then own your fupernatural power and Bread your
difpleafure.

After fome filence the prince became more calm
and eafy, and returned for anfwer, that recollectini^
the former friendfliip and good underltanding, which
had ever fubfifted betwixt the white people and red
people of the Slminole bands, and in particular, the
many acts ol: friendfliip and kindnefs received from
Mr. M'Latche, he would overlook this affront ; he
acknovvledged his reafoning and expoftulations to be
juft andmanly, that he lliould fupprefs his refentment,
and withhold his power and vengeance at prefen'^.
Mr. M'Latche concluded by faying, that he was not

• A large ancient Live Oik ftood in the yard about fifty yards diilaace.

S in

3.58 TRAVELS IN

in the Icafl intimidated by his threats of deftroying
him with thunder and lightning, neither was he
dirpofed in any manner to difpleafe the Siminoles,
and fl-jould certainly comply with his requifitions,
as far as he could proceed without the advice and
directions of the company ; and finally agreed to
jupply him and his followers with fuch things as they
ihood moft in need of, fuch as fliirts, blankets and
Ibme paints, one half to be paid for direQly, and
the remainder to ftand on credit until their return
from the expedition. This determination entirely
fatisfied the Indians. We broke up the confer-
ence in perfect amity and good humour, and they
returned to their camp, and in the evening, ratified
it with feafling and dancing, which continued all
next day with tolerable decorum. An occurrence
liappened this day, by which I had an opportunity
of obferving their extraordinary veneration or dread
of the rattle fnake. 1 was in the forenoon bufy in
my apartment in the council-houfe, drawing fome
curious flowers; when, on a fudden, my attention
was taken (5ft' by a tumult v.ithout, at the Indian
camp. I ftepped to the door opening to the piazza,
\vhere I met my friend the old interpreter, who
informed me that there was a very large rattle
fnake in the Indian camp, which had taken poffefiion
of it, having driven the men, ^^'omen and children
out, and he heard them faying that they would fend
for PuC'Puggy (for that was the name which they
had given me, fignifying the Flower Hunter) to
kill him or take him out of their camp. I anfwer-
ed, that I defired to have nothing to do with him,
•apprehending fom.e difagreeablc confequences ; and
defired that the Indians might be acquainted that I
"was engaged in bufinefs that required applicatioa
and quiet, and was determined to avoid it if

pofTibfe,

NORTH AMERICA. 25$

poflible. My old friend turned about to carry my
anfwer to the Indians. 1 prefently heard them ap-
proaching and calHng for Puc-Puggy. Starting up
to efcape ii om their fight by a back door, a par-
ty confifling of three young fellows, richly drefled
and ornamented, ilepped in, and with a countenance
and adion of noble fimplicity, amity and complai-
fance, requelled me to accompany them to their
encampment. I defired them to excufe me at this
time ; they pleaded and entreated me to go witU
them, in order to free them from a great rattle
fnake which had entered their camp ; that none of
them had freedom or courage to expel him ; and
underllanding that it was my pieafure to collect all
their animals and other natural productions of their
land, defircd that I would come with them and take
him away, that I was welcome to him. I at length,
confented and attended on them to their encamp-
ment, where I beheld the Indians greatly difturbed
indeed. The men with (licks and tomahawks, and
the women and children collected together at a
diftance in affright and trepidation, whilit the dread-
ed and revered ferpent Icifurely traverfed their
camp, vifiting the fire places from one to another,
picking up fragments of their provifions and licking
their platters. The men gathered around me, ex-
citincj me to remove him : beino; armed with a
lightwood knot, I approached the reptile, who in-
ftantly collected himfelf in a vail coil (their attitude
of defence) I call my miffile weapon at him, which
luckily taking his head, difpatched him inftanlly,
and laid him trembling at my feet. I took out
my knife, fevered his head from his body, then turn-
ing about, the Indians complimented me with every
demonftration of fatisfattion and approbation for
my heroifm, and friendfliip for them. 1 carried oif

S 2 'the

2bo TRAVELS IN

the head of the ferpent bleeding In my hand as a
trophy of vidlory ; and taking out the mortal fangs,
depofited them carefully amongfi: my colledions. I
had not been long retired to my apartment, before
I was again roufed from it by a tumult in the yard ;
and hearing Puc-Puggy called on, I ftarted up,
when inftantly the old interpreter met me again,
and told me the Indians were approaching in order
to fcratch me. I afked him for what ? he anfwered
for killing the rattle fnake within their camp.
Before I could make any reply or effect my efcape,
three young fellows fmging, arm in arm, came up
*o me. I obferved one of the three was a young
prince who had, on my firfl interview with him, de-
clared himfelf my friend and protector, when he
told me that if ever occafion fhould offer in his pre-
fence^ he would riflv his life to defend mine or my
property. This young champion flood by his two
afibciates, one on each fide of him : the two affeft-
ing a countenance and air of difpleafure and impor-
tance, inftantly prefenting their fcratching inftru-
ments, and flourifliing them, fpoke boldly, and faid
that I was too heroic and violent, that it would be
good for me to lofe forae of my blood to make m-e
more mild and tame, and for that purpofe they were
come to fcratch me. They gave me no time to ex-
poflulate or reply, but attempted to lay hold on
me, which I refifted ; and my friend, the young-
prince, interpofed and pufhed them off, faying thai
I was a brave warrior and his friend ; that they
ihould not infuk me ; when inflantly they altered
their countenance and behaviour : they all whooped
in chorus, took me friendly by the hand, clapped
me on the fhoulder, and laid their hands on their
breads in token of fmcere friendfnip, and laughing
aloud, laid I was a fmcere friend to the SiminolCvS,

a. wcr-

NORTH AMERICA. C5l

a worthy and brave warrior, and that no one (hould
hereafter attempt to injure me. They then all three
joined arm in arm again and went off, fliouting and
proclaiming Puc-Puggy was their friend, kc. Thus
it feemed that the whole was a ludicrous farce to
fatisfy their people and appeafe the manes * of the
dead rattle fnake.

The next day was employed by the Indians in
preparations for their departure, fuch as taking up
their goods from the trading houfe, colleding to-
gether their horfes, making up their packs, &c.
and the evening joyfully fpent in fongs and dances.
The fucceeding morning after exhibiting the war
farce they decamped, proceeding on their expedi-
tion againfl their enemy.

* Thcfe people never kill the rattle fnake or any other ferpent, faying
if they do fo, the fpirir of the killed fnake will excite or influence his
living kindred or relatives to revenge the injury or violence done tp hvp.
vhcn alive.

CHAP,

2^2 TRAVELS iX

CHAP. X.

But let us again refume the fubjed of the rat-
tle fnake ; a wonderful creature, when we confider
his form, nature and difpofition. It is certain
that he is capable by a puncture or fcratch of one
of his fangs, not only to kill the largefl animal in
America, and that in a few minutes time, but to
turn the whole body into corruption ; but fuch is
the nature of this dreadful reptile, that he cannot
run or creep fafter than a man or child can walk,
and he is never known to ftrike until he is firft
affaulted or fears himfelf in danger, and even then
always gives the earlieft warning by the rattles at
the extremity of the tail. I have in the courfe of
my travels in the Southern Rates (where they are the
largeft, mofl numerous and fuppofed to be the mod
venemous and vindi£live) ftept unknowingly fo clofe
as almofl to touch one of them with my feet, and
when I perceived him he was already drawn up in
circular coils ready for a blow. But however in-*
credible it may appear, the generous, 1 may fay
magnanimous creature lay as dill and motionlefs as if
inanimate, his head crouched in, his eyes almoft
fhut. I precipitately withdrew, unlefs when I have
been fo fhocked with furprife and horror as to be in
a manner rivetted to the fpot, for a fliort time not
having ftrength to go away ; when he often llowly
extends himfelf and quietly moves off in a direft
line, unlefs purfued, when he erects his tail as far as
the rattles extend, and gives the warning alarm by
intervals. But if you purfue and overtake him with
a fhew of enmity, he initantly throws himfelf into

the

NORTH AMERICA. 263

the fpirai coil ; his tail by the rapidity of its mo-
tion appears like a vapour, makinf]; a quick tremu-
lous found ; his whole body fwells through rage,
continually rifing and falling as^a bellows •, his beau-
tiful particoloured Ikin becomes fpeckled and rough
by dilatation ; his head and neck are flattened, his
cheeks fwollen and his lips conllrifted, difcover-
ing his mortal fangs ; his eyes red as burning coals,
and his brandifliing forked tongue of the colour of
the hotted flame, continually menaces death and
deflrudion, yet never llrikes unlcfs fure of his
mark.

The rattle fnakc is the largefl: ferpent yet known
to exift in North America. I have heard of their
having been feen formerly, at the firfl: fettling of
Georgia, fevcn, ciglit and even ten feet in length,
and fix or eight inches diameter ; but there are none
of that fize now to be feen ^ yet I have feen then^
above fix feet in length, and above fix inches in
thicknefs, or as Ijirge as a man's leg ; but their ge-
neral fize is four, five, and fix feet in ienfrth.
They are fuppafed to have tlie power of fafci-
nation in an eminent degree, fo as to inthral their
prey. It is generally believed rhat they charm
birds, rabbits, fquirrels and other animals, and by
lledfartly looking at them pofiefs them with infa-
tuation : be the caufe what it may, the miferable
creatures undoubtedly llrive by every poflible
means to cfcapc, but alas ! their endeavours are in
vain^ they at lalt lofe the power of refiflance, and
flutter or move llowly, but relucl:antly, towards the
yawning jaws of their devourers, and creep into
their mouths, or lie down and fuffer ^hemfelyes to
fee tnkcn and faaliov.ed.

Since,

264 7RAV]ZLS IN

Since, within the circle of my acquaintance, I
am known to be an advocate or vindicator of the
benevolent and peaceable difpofition of animal
creation in general,^ not only towards mankind,
whom they feem to venerate, but alfo towards one
another, except v»here hunger or the rational and
necefi'ary provocations of the fenfual appetite inter-
fere, I fhall mention a few inftances, amongft
many, which T have had an opportunity of remark-
ing during my travels, particularly with regard to
the animal I have been treating of. I fnall ftiidly
confine myfelf to facls.

When on the fea coaft of Georgia, I confented,
with a few friends, to m^ake a party of amufement
at fifliing and fowling on Sapello, one of the fea
coafl ifiands. We accordingly defcended the Alata-
maha, crofled the found and landed on the North
end of the ifland, near the inlet, fixing our encamp-
ment at a pleafant fitiiation, under the fhade of a
grove of Live Oaks and Laurels*, on the high banks
of a creek which we afcended, winding through a
fait marfh, which had its fource frani a fwamp and
favanna in the iiland : our fituatfon elevated and
open, commanded a comprehenfive landfcape ;
the great ocean, the foaming furf breaking on the
fandy beach, the fnowy breakers on the bar, the
endlefs chain of ifiands, checkered found and hig^h
continent all appearing before us. The diverting
toils of the day were not fruitlefs, affording iis op-
portunities of furnifhing ourfelves plentifully with a
variety of game, fifli and oyllers for our fupper.

About two hundred yards from our camp was a
cool fpring, amidft a grove of the odoriferous My-

* Afagnolia grandiflora, calkd by the inhabitants the Laurel.

rica •

NORTH AMERICA. z6$

lica : the winding path to this falubrious fountain led
through a graffy favanna. I vifited the fpring feve,-
ral times in the night, but little did I know, or any
of iTiy carelefs drowfy companions, that every
time we vifited the fountain we were in imminent
danger, as I am going to relate Early in the
moDiing, excited by unconquerable third, I arofe
and went to the fpring ; and having, thoughtlefs
of harm or danger, nearly half pafl the dewy vale,
along the ferpcniine foot path, my hafly fteps were
fuddcniy ffoppcd by the fight of a hideous ferpent,
the formidable ratilc fnake, in a high fpiral coil.
Icrniing a circular mould half the height of my
knees, within fix inches of the narrow path. As
foon as I recovered my fcnfcs and flrcngth from fo
fuddcn a furprifc, I ftarted back cut of his reach,
Vvhers I ftood to view him : he lay quiet whilft 1
furveyed him, appearing no w^ay furprifed or dif-
turhed, but kept his half-fhut eyes fixed on me.
My imagination and fpirits were in a tumult, almoft
equally divided betwixt thankfgiving to the fupreme
Creator and preferver, and the dignified nature of
the generous though terrible creature, who had fuf-
fered us all to pafs many times by him during the
night, without injuring us in the leaf!:, although we
muil have touched him, or our fleps guided there-
from by a fupreme guardian fpirit. I haftened back
to acquaint my aflbclatcs, but with a determina-
tion to protcO the life of the generous ferpenr. I
prefcntly brought my companions to the place, who
were, beyond expreflion, furprifed and terrified at
the fight of the animal, and in a moment acknow-
ledged their cfcnpe from deflru£lion to be miracu-
lous ; and I^am proud to aflert, that all of us, except
one perfon, agreed to let him lie undillurbed, and

- that

266 TRAVELS IN

that pcrfon at length was prevailed upon to faffer
liiin to efcape.

Again, when in my youth, attending my father
on a journey to the Catfkill mountains, in the go-
vernment at' New-York ; having nearly afcended
the peak of Giliad, being youthful and vigorous in
the purfuit of botanical and novel objetls, I had
gained the fummit of a fteep rocky precipice, a-head
of our guide ; when juft entering a fhady vale, I
faw at the root of a fmall fhrub, a fmgular and
beautiful appearance, which I remember to have
inftantly apprehended to be a large kind of Fungus
which we call Jew's ears, and was juft drawing back
my foot to kick it over ; when at the inftant, my
father being near, cried out, a rattle fnake my
fon : and jerked me back, which probably faved my
life. 1 had never before feen one. This was of the
kind which our guide called a yellow one, it was
very beautiful, fpeckled and clouded. My father
pleaded for his life, but our guide w^as inexorable,
faying he never fpared the life of a rattle fnake, and
killed him ; my father took his fl^in and fangs.

Some years after this, when again in company
with my father on a journey into Eaft Florida, on
the banks of St. Juan, at Fort Picolata, attending
th€ congrcfs at a treaty between that government
and the Creek Nation, for obtaining a territory
from that people to annex to the new government ;
after the Indians and a detachment from the gar-
rifon of St. Auguftine had arrived and encamped
feparately, near the fort, fome days elapfed before
the buhnefs of the treaty came on, waiting the ar-
rival of a veflel from St. Auguftine, on board of
which were the prefents for the Indians. My fa-
ther employed this time of Icifure in Httle excur-

fions

Is'ORTH AMERICA. fiGj

fions round about the fort ; and one morning,
being the day the treaty commenced, I attended
him on a botanical excurfion. Some time after we
had been rambling in a fwamp about a quarter of
a mile from the camp, 1 being a-head a few paces,
my father bid me obferve the rattle fnake before
and jufl at my feet. 1 flopped and faw the monfler
formed in a high fpiral coil, not half his length from
my feet : another flcp forward would have put my
life in his power, as I mufl: have touched if not
{tumbled over him. The fright and perturbation of
my fpirits at once excited refentment ;-at that time
I WS.S entirely infenfible to gratitude or mercy. I
inflantly cut olf a little fapling and foon difpatched
him : this ferpent was about fix feet in length, and
as thick as an ordinary man's leg. The rencoun-
ter deterred us from proceeding on our refearches
for that day. So I cut off" a long tough withe or
vine, which faftening round the neck of the flain
ferpent, I dragged him after me, his fcaly body
founding over the ground, and entering the camp
with him in triumph, was foon furrounded by the
amazed multitude, both Indians and my countr3'-
men. The adventure foon reached the ears of the
commander, who fent an officer to requefl: that,
if the fnake had not bit himfelf, he might have
Iiim ftrved up for his dinner. I readily deUvered
up the body of the fnake to the cooks, and being
that day invited to dine at the governor's table, fav.--
the fnake ferved up in fcveral di flies ; governor
Grant being fond of the flefli of the rattle fnake.
I tailed of it but could not fwallow it. I, however,
was fo;ry after killing the ferpent, when cooly re-
toliecling every circumftance. He certainly had it
in his power to kill me almcfl inflantly, and I make
no doubt but that he was confcious of it. I pro-

mifed

a6S TRAvm.G in

mifetl myrdf that I vvciild never again be acceflary
to the death of a rattle fnake, which piomife I have
invariably kept to. This dreaded animal is eafily
killed ; a ftick no thicker than a man's thumb is fuf-
ficient to kill the largeft at one ftroke, if well di-
redcd, either on the head or acrofs the back ; nor
can they make their cfcape by running off, nor in-
deed do they attempt it when attacked.

The moccafm fnake is a large and horrid ferpent
to all appearance, and there are very terrifying
florles related of him bv the inhabitants of the
Southern dates, where they greatly abound, par-
ticularly in Eaft Florida : that their bite is always
incurable, the flefh for a confiderable fpace about
the wound rotting to the bone, which then becomes
carious, and a general mortification enfues, which
infallibly deftroys the patient ; the members of the
body rotting and dying by piecemeal : and that there
is no remedy to prevent a lingering miferable death
but by immediately cutting away the flefli to the
bone?, for fome diftance round about the wound.
In fhape and proportion of parts they much refem-
ble the rattle fnake, and are marked or clouded
much after the fame manner, but the colours more
dull and obfcure ; and in their difpofition feem to
agree with that dreadful reptile, being flow of pro-
grefiion, and throwing themfelves in a fpiral coil
ready for a blow when attacked. They have one pe-
culiar quality, which is this, when difcovcred, and
obferving their enemy to take notice of them, after
throwing themfelves in a coil, they gradually raife
their upper maiKlible or jaw until it falls back near-
ly touching their neck, at the fame time flowly vi-
brating their long purpleforked tongue, their crooked
poifonous fangs directed right at you, which gives the

creature

NORTH AMERICA. 26^

Cireaturc a mod terrifying appearance. They are
from three to four and even five feet in length, and
as thick as a man's leg ; they are not numerous, yet
too common, and afufficient terror to the miferable
naked flaves, who are compelled to labour in the
fvvamps and low lands where only they abound.

I never could find any that knew an inftance of
any perfon's lohng their life from the bite of them,
only by hearfay. Yet I am convinced it is highly
prudent for every peribn to be on their guard
againfl them. They appear to be of the viper tribe,
from their fwelling of their body and flattening their
neck when provoked, and from their large poifon-
ous fangs : their head, mouth and eyes are remark-
ably large.

There is another fnake in Carolina and Florida
called the moccafm, very different from this ; v/hich
is a very beautiful creature, and 1 believe not of
a deftrudive or vindictive nature. Thefe when erown
to their greateft fize are about five feet In length,
and near as thick as a man's arm ; their Ikin Icaly
but fmooth and fliining, of a pale grey and fky co-
lour ground, uniformly marked with tranfvcrfe un-
dulatory ringlets or blotches of a deep nut brown,
edged with red or bright Spanifh brown. They ap-
pear innocent, very aclive and fwift, endeavouring
to efcape from one ; they have no poifonous fangs.
Thefe are feen in high foreft -lands, about rotten
logs or decayed fallen limbs of trees, and they har-
bour about old log buildings. They feem to be a
fpecies, if not the very fame make which, in Penfvl-
vania and Virginia, is called the wampom fnake ; but
here in warmer Southern climes they gi ow to a much
larger fize, and from the fame accident their colour
may be more variable and deeper. Tliey are by

the

270 TRAVELS Iti

the inhabitants affcrted to be dangeroufly venehlouSj
the bite incurable, &c. But as I could never learn
an inftance of their bite being mortal or attended
with any dangerous eonfequence, and have had
frequent opportunities of obferving their nature and
difpofition, I am inclined to pronounce them an in-
recent creature, withrefpeft to mankind.

The baftard rattle fnake, by fome called ground
rattle fnake, is a dangerous little creature : their
bite is certainly mortal if prefent medical relief is
not adminiftered : they feem to be much of the na-
ture of the afp or adder of the old world.

This little viper is in form and colour much like
the rattle fnake, but not fo bright and uniformly
marked : their head is broader and fliorter in pro-
portion to the other parts of their body : their
Rofe prominent and turned upwards : their tail be*
comes fuddenly fmall from the vent to the extremi-
ty, which terminates with three minute articula-
tions, refembling rattles : when irritated they turn
up their tail, which vibrates fo quick as to appear
like a mill or vapour, but caufes little or no found
or noife ; yet it is the common report of the inha-
bitants, that they caufe that remarkable vehe-
ment noife, fo frequently obferved in forefts in the
heat of fummer and autumn, very terrifying to
ftrangers, which is, probably, caufed by a very fa-
ble fmall infedt of the genus cicadae, or which are
called locufts in America ; yet it is poffible I may
be miftaken in this conjefture. This dangerous vi-
per is from eight to ten inches in length, and of
proportionable thickncfs. They are fpiteful, fnap-
pifli creatures j and throwing themfelves into a Uttle
coii, they fwell and flatten themfelves, continually
darting out their head : and they feem capable of

fpringing

NOaVH AMERICA. 27 1

lj)ringing beyond their length. They feem deftkute
of the pacilic difpofition and magnanimity of the
rattle fnake, and are unworthy of an alliance with
him. No man ever faves their lives, yet they remain
too numerous, even in the oldell fettled parts of the
country.

The green fnake is a beautiful innocent creature :
they are from two to three feet in knith, but not
fo thick as a perfon's little finger ; of the fineft green
colour. They are very abundant, commonly kcR
on the limbs of trees and fhrubs : they prey upon
infeO:s and reptiles, particularly the little green cha-
meleon : and the forked tailed hawk or kite feeds
on both of them, fnatching them off the boughs of
the trees.

The ribband fnake is another very beautiful inno-
cent ferpent : they are eighteen inches in length,
and about the thicknefs of a man's little finger ; the
head is very fmall ; the ground colour of a full,
clear vermilion, variegated with tranfverfe bars or
zones of a dark brown, which people fancy repre-
fents a ribband wound round the creature's body :
they are altogether inofFenfive to man, and are in a
manner domeftic, frequenting old v/ooden buildings,
open grounds and plantations.

The chicken fnake is a large, ftrong and fwift
ferpent, fix or feven feet in length, but fcarceiy
fo thick as a man's wrift ; they are of a cinereous,
earthly celour, and flriped longitudinally with broad
lines or lilts, of a dufky or blackifh colour. They
are a domedic fnake, haunting about houfes and
plantations ; and would be ufeful to man if tamed
and properly tutored, being great devourers of rats,

but

2^2 TRAVELS I IST

but they are apt to diflurb hen roofls and prey
upon chickens. They are as innocent as a worm
with refped to venom, are eafily tamed and foon
become very famihar.

The pine or bull fnake is very large and inofFen-
•five with refped to mankind, but devours fquirrels,
birds, rabbits, and every other creature it can
take as food. They are the largeft fnake yet knov/n
in North America, except the rattle fnake, and per-
haps exceed him in length : they are pied black and
white : they utter a terrible loud hifling noife,
founding very hollow and like diftant thunder, when
irritated, or at the time of incubation, when the
males contend with each other for the defired fe-
male. Thefe ferpents are alfo called horn fnakes,
from their tail terminating with a hard, horny fpur,
which rhey vibrate very quick when diflurbed, but
they never attempt to ftrike with it ; they have
dens in the earth, whither they retreat precipitately
when apprehenfive of danger.

There are many other fpecies of fnakes in the
regions of Florida and Carolina ; as the water
fnake, black fpake, garter fnake, copper belly, ring
neck, and two or three varieties of vipers, befides
thofe already noticed in my journal. Since i have
begun to mention the animals of thefe regions, this
may be a proper place to enumerate the other tribes
which I obferved during my perigrinations. I fliall
begin with the frogs (ranae.)

/'i)The largeft frog known in Florida and on
the fea coafl of Carolina, is about eight or nine
inches in length from the nofe to the extremity of
the toes : they are of a dufl^y brown or black co-
lour on the upper fide, and their belly or under fide

white

NORTH AMERICA. I73,

white, fpotted and clouded with diifky fpots ol' vn-
rjous fize and figure ; their legs and thighs alfo are
variegated with tranfverfe ringlets, of dark brown
or black ; and they are yellow and green about
their mouth and lips. They live in wetfwamps and
inarfhes, on the Ihores of large rivers and lakes ;
their voice is loud and hideous, greatly refcmbling
the grunting of a fwine ; but not near as loud as the
voice of the bull frog of Virginia and Pennfylvania ;
neither do they arrive to halJF their fizc, the bull frog"
being frequently eighteen inches in length, ai;u
their roaring as loud as that of a bull.

(2) The bell frog, fo called becaufc their voice
is fancied to be exactly like the found of a loud
ccTw bell. This tribe being very numerous, and
uttering their voices in companies or by large dif-*
tricls, when one begins another anlwers ; thus the
found is caught and repeated from one to another,
to a great dilfance round about, caufmg a furpri-
fmg noifc for a few minutes, rifing and linking ac-
cori.rmg*as the v/ind fits, when it nearly dies away^
or is foftly kept up by diilant didricts or commu-
nities : thus the noife is repeated continually, and
as one becomes familiarifed to it, is not unmufical,
thouErh at {ird:, tollranrers, it fccms clamorous and
difgr.lling.

(3) A beautiful green frog inhabits the graffy,
inarihy fnores of thcfe large rivers. They are very
numerous, and their noife exactly refembles the
barking of little dogs, or the yelpinc; cf puppies :
thefe likewife make a great clamour, but as their
notes are fine, and uttered in chorus, by fcparate
bands or communities, far and near, rifing and
falling with the gentle breezes, affords a pleafing
kind of mufiC.

T (4) Tiiere

274 TRAVELS IN

(4) There is befides this a lefs green frog, which
is very common about houfes : their notes are re-
markably like that of young chickens : thcfe raife
their chorus immediately preceding a Ihower of rain,
v.'ith v/hich they feem delighted.

(5) A little grey fpeckled frog is in prodigious
numbers in and about the ponds and favannas on
high land, particularly in Pine forefls : their lan-
guage or noife is alfo uttered in chorus, by large
communities or feparate bands ; each particular
note refembles the noife made by fhriking two peb-
bles together under the furface of the water, which
when thoafands near yon utter their notes at the
fame time, and is tvafted to your ears by a fudden
flow of wind, is very furprifing, and does not ill
refemble the rufning noife made by a vaft quantity
of gravel and pebbles together, at once precipitated
from a great height.

(6) There is yet an extreme diminutive fpecies
of frogs, which inhabits the grafly verges of ponds
in favannas : thefe are called favanna crickets, are
of a dark afli or dufky colour, and have a very
picked nofe. At the times of very great rains, in
the autumn, when the favannas are in a manner
inundated, they are to be feen in incredible multi-
tudes clambering up the tall grafs, weed, &c. round
the verges of the favannas, bordering on the higher
ground ; and by an inattentive perfon might be ta-
ken for fpiders or other infecls. Their note is very
feeble, not unlike the chattering of young birds or
crickets.

(7) The fliad frrg, fo called in Pennfylvania from
their appearing and croaking in the fpring feafon,
at the time the people fifh for ihad : this is a

beautiful

NORTH AMERICA. 275

beautiful fpotted frog, of a (lender form, five or fix
inches in length from the nofe to the extremities ;
of a dark olive green, blotched with clouds and
ringlets of a dullcy colour : thefe are remarkable
jumpers and enterprifing hunters, leaving their
ponds to a great dil lance in fearch of prey. They
abound in rivers, fwamps and marfhes, in the Sou-
thern regions ; in the evening and fultry fummer
days, particularly in times of drought, are very
noify ; and at fome diflance one would be almofl
perfuaded that there were affemblics of men in feri-
ous debate. Thefe have alio a fucking or clucking
noife, like that which is made by fucking in the
tongue under the roof of the mouth. Thefe are
the kinds of water frogs that iiave come under my
obfervation ; yet 1 am perfuaded that there are yet
remaining fevcral other fpecies.

(8) The high land frogs, commonly called toads,
are of two fpecies, the red and black. The for-
mer, which is of a reddifli brown or brick colour,
is the largcft, and may weigh upwards of one pound
when full grown : they have a difagreeable look,
and w-hen irritated, they fwell and raife themfelves
lip on their four legs and croak, but are no ways
venemous or hurttul to man. The other fpecies
are one third lefs, and of a black or dark dulky co-
lour. The legs and thighs of both are marked with
blotches and ringlets of a darker colour, which ap-
pear more confpicuous when provoked : the fmaller
black fpecies are the moil numerous. Early in the
fpring feafon, they ali'emble by numberlei's multi-
tudes in the drains and ponds, when their univerfal
croaking and fhouts are great Indeed, yet in fome
degree not unharmonious. After tliis breeding time
they crawl out of the water and fpread themfelves
T 3 all

476 YRAVELs irr

all over the country. Their fpawn beliK;" hatched
m the Avarm water, the larva is there nourifhed,
paffing through the like metamorphofes as the
water frogs 5 and as foon as they obtain four feet,
whiift yet no larger than crickets, they leave the
fluid nurfery-bed, and hop over the dry land after
their parents.

. The food of thefe amphibious creatures, when
out of the water, is every kind of infect, reptile,
&c. they can take, even ants and fpiders ; nature
having furniilied them with an extreme long tongue,
which exudes a vifcid or glutinous liquid, they be-
ing fecreted under covert, fpring fuddenly upoii'
their prey, 01* dart forth their tongue as quick as
lightning, and inftantly drag into- their devouring
jaws the unwary infect. But whether they prey upon
one another, as the water frogs do, I know not.

There are feveral fpecies of the H?!ard kind befides-
the alligator, which is by naturalifts allowed to be a
fpecies of that genus.

The green lizard or little green chameleon is a
pretty innocent creature : the largeil I have ken
were not more than feven inches in length : they
appear commonly of a fine green colour, having a
large red gill under their throat : they have the fa-
culty of changing colour, which, notwithftanding
the fpecious reafoning of phyfiologifts, is a very
furprifmg phenomenon. The llrloed lizard, called
fcorplon, and the blue bellied fquamous lizards I
have already mentioned. There is a large coppe?
coloured lizard, and a very flender one of a fine
blue colour, and very fuift ; the tail of this laft,
which is very long and fiender, is as fubject to be
broken off as that of the glafs fnake, Thefc two

kfb

NOF.TH AMERICA, 27*7

lad are become A^ery fciirce, and when feen rje dif-
covered about old log buildings.

Here are feverai fpecies of the tortoife, befides
thrSr. already mentioned ; as the fmall land tor-
toile^ already defcribed by every traveller. There
is a good figure and defcrlption of him in G.
IM'.varus's Gl. Nat. Hift. vol. II. p. 205. There
arc two fpecies of frefh-water tortoifes inhabiting
the tide water rivers ; one of v»'hich is large, weigh-
ing tcL or twelve pounds, the back fliell of nearly
an oval form, and railed very high, the belly
(hell flat and entire, but deeply fcollopcd oppofite
the legs. Tfie other fpecies are fmal', com-
paratively, and tlie back fhell lightl)^ raifed : both
fpecies are food for mankind and efleemed deli-
cious.

Of beads, the otter (lutra) is co-nmon, but more
fo in tV^eft-Florida, towards the mountains. The
feverai fpecies of muftcla are common ; as the
mink, weafel and polecat (putorius). Racoons and
<)po{fums are in great abundance ; thefe animals
are elleemed delicious and healthy food. There
are two fpecies of wild-rats ; but neither of them
near as large as the European houfe-rat, which are
common enough in the fcttlements of the white
people. Here are very few mice ; yet I have iQcn
fome, particularly in Charlcfton. I faw two in a
little wire cage, at a gentleman's houfe, which were
as white as fnow, and their eyes rede There are
yet a few beavers in Eaft-Florida and Georgia, but
they abound mod in the North of Georgia, and in
Weft-Florida, near the mountains. But the muflv^
rat (caflor cauda lanceolata) is never itcn in Ca-
rolina, Georgia or Florida, within one hundred
^liles of the fea coaft, and very few in the mod

;i.orther

2yS TRAVELS IN

northern parfs of thefe regions ; which mud be con-
fidered as a mofl lavourable circumftance, by the
people in countries where there is fo much banking
an^ draining of the land, they being the mod de-
{'ruclive creatures to dykes.

The roe-buck I have aheady memioned. The
bears are yet too numerous : they are a flrong crea-
ture, and prey on the fruits of the country, and will
likewife devour young calves, fwine and Iheep ; but
I never could learn a well attefted infl:ance of their
attacking mankind. They weigh from five hundred
to fix hundred weight when full grown and fat : their
flefh is greatly efteemed as food by the natives.

The wild cat, felis cauda truncata, (lyiix) is
common enough ; it is a fierce and bold httle
animal, pre)'ing on young pigs, fawns, turkeys, SiC.
They are not half the fize of a common cur dog,
are generally of- a greyiih colour, and fomewhat
tabbied; their fides bordering on the belly are va-
ried with yellowifh brown fpots, and almoft black
waving ftreaks, and brindled; I have been credibly
informed thai the wolves here are frequently fecn
pied, black and while, and of other mixed colours.
They alTemble in companies in theiiic;ht time, hovv'i
and bark altogether, efpecially in cold v.'inter nights,
which is terrifying to the wandering bewildei'ed tra-
veller.

The foxes of Carolina and Florida are of the
fmaller red' fpecies ; they bark in the night round
about plantations, but do not bark twice in the
fame place ; they move precipitately, and in a few
minutes are heard on the oppofire fide of the plan-
tation, or at a greiat diiTance : it is faid that dogs
are terrified at the noifc, and cannot be pcrfuaded

or

NORTH AMERICA. 279

or compelled to purfuc them. They commit
depredations on young pigs, Iambs, poultry,
&c.

The mole is not fo common here as in the north-
ern eftates.

The bats of Florida fecm to be the fame fpecies of
thofc in Pennfylvania and Virginia, and very little
.different from the European.

Here are feveral fpecies of fquirrels, (fclurus)
peculiar to the lower countries, or maritime parts of
Carolina and the Floridas, and fome of them are
very beautiful creatures.

The great black fox fquirrel is above two feet
in length from the nofe to the end of the tail,
which for about two inches is milk white, as are
the ears and nofe. The red fox fquirrel is of the
fame fize and form, of a light reddifli brown upper
fide, and white under fide, the ears and tip end of
the tail white.

The grey fox fquirrel is rather larger than
either of the foregoing ; their belly white, as are
the ears, nofe, and tip of the tail. Thefe three
feem to be varieties of the fame fpecies.

The common grey fquirrel is about half the fize of
the preceding.

The black fquirrel is about tlie fame fize, and all
over of a Ihining jet black.

The little grey fquirrel is much lefs than either of
the preceding fpecies ; it is of a brov-nifn grey upper
fide, and white belly.

The

i

2oO TRAViiLS IN

The ground fquirrcl, or little ftriped fquirrel of
Pcnnfylvania and the northern regions, is never feen
here, and very rarely in the mountains north-weft:
ofKhefe territories ; but the flying fquirrel, (fciurus
volans) is vei'y common.

The rabbit (lepus minor, cauda abrupta, pupillis
atris) is pretty common, and no ways differing trom
thofe of Pennfylvania and the northern flates.

Having mentioned rnoft of the animals in thefe
parts of America, which are moft remarkable or
ufeful, there remains, however, yet fome obferva-
tlons on birds, which by fome may be thought not-
impertinent.

There are but few that have fallen under my o.b-
fervation, but have been mentioned by the zoologifts,
and mod of them very well figured in Catefoy's, or
Edv.ards's v/orks.

But thefe authors have done very little towards
elucidating the fubjed of the migration of birds,
or accounting for the annual appearance and dif-
appearance, and vanifliing of thefe beautiful and
entertaining beings, who vifit us at certain itated
feafons. Cateiby has faid very little on this curious
fubject ; but Edwards more, and perhaps all, or as
much as could be faid in truth, by the nioH: able and
ingenious, who had not the advantage and oppor-
tunity of ocular obfcrvation; which can only he
acquired by travelling, and refiding a whole year
at lead in the various climates from north to fouth,
to the full extent of their peregrinations ; or mi-
nutely examining the tracls and obfervations of cu-
rious and indudrious travellers, who have publiflied
their memoirs on this fubjeft. There may perhaps
be feme perfons who co)ifider this enquiry not to

be

NORTH AMERICA. ' sSx

be produftlve of any reai benefit to mankind, and
pronounce fuch attention to natural hiftory merely
fpeculative, and only fit to amufe and entertain the
idle virtuofo ; however the ancients thought other-
wife : for with them, the knowledge of the paiTage
of birds was the ftudy of their priefts and philofo-
phers, and was confidered a matter of real and in-
difpenfable ufe to the (late, next to alhonomy ; as
we find their fyflem and practice of agriculture was
in a great degree regulated by the arrival and dif-
appearance of birds of palTage ; and perhaps a ca-
lendar under fuch a regulation at this time, might
be ufeful to the huibandnian and gardener.

But however attentive and obfervant the an-
cients were on this branch of fcience, they feem to
have been very ignorant or erroneous in their con-
jeftures concerning what became of birds, after
their difappearance, until their return again. In
the fouthern and temperate climates fome imagined
they went to the moon : in the northern regions
they fuppofed that they retired to caves and hollow
trees, for flielter and fecurity, where they remained
in a dormant ifate during the cold feafons : and
even at this dav, very celebrated men have allerted
that fwallows (hirundo) at the approach of winter,
voluntarily plunge into lakes and rivers, defcend
to the bottom, and there creep into the mud and
flime, where they continue overwhelmed by ice in
a torpid Rate, until the returning fummer warms
them again into life ; when they rife, return to the
furface of the water, immediately take wing, and
again people the air. This notion, though the latelt,
fcems the moil diilicult to reconcile to reafon and
common kn^e, re'peOing a bird fo fwift of flight
tliat it canwlt'i cafj and plcafure move through the

air

282 TRAVELS IN

air even fwifter than the winds, and in a few
hours time Aiift twenty degrees from north to
foiith, even from frozen regions to climes where
froft is never feen, and where the air and piains
are repleniflied with flying infects of infinite va-
riety, its favourite and only food.

Pennfylvania and Virginia appear to me to be
the climates in North-America, where the greatefl
variety and abundance ot thefe winged emigrants
choofe to celebrate their nuptials, and rear their
offspring, which they annually return with, to their
winter habitations, in the fouthern regions of N.
America ; and mod of thofe beautiful creatures,
which annually people and harmonife our forefls and
groves, in the fpring and fummer feafons, are birds
of palTage from the fouthward. The eagle, i. e,
falco leucocephalus, or bald eagle, falco maximus,
or great grey eagle, falco major cauda ferrugineo,
falco pullarius, falco columbarius, (Irix pythaulis,
flrix acclamatus, ilrix affio, tetrao tympanus, or
pheafant of Pennfylvania, tetrao urogalius, or
mountain cock or grous of Pennfylvania^ tetrao
minor five coturnix, or partridge of Pennfylvania,
picus, or woodpeckers of feveral fpecies, corvus
carnivorus, or raven, corvus frugivora, or crow,
corvus glandarius f. corvus criftatus, or blue jay,
alauda maxima, regulus atrofufcus minor, or marfh
wren, fitta, or nuthatch, meleagris, are perhaps
nearlv all the land birds which continue the year
round in Pennfylvania. I might add to thefe the
blue bird, motacilla fialis, mock bird, turdus poly-
glottos, and fomctimes the robin redbreall, turdus
migratorius, in extraordinary warm winters ; and
althouo-h I do not pretend to aflert as a known
truth, yet it may be found on future obfervation

that

NORTH AMERICA. 283

that mofl: of thefe above mentioned are flrangers ;
or not really bred where they wintered ; but are
more northern families, or fojourners, bound fou-
therly to more temperate habitations ; thus pulh-
ing each other foutherly, and pollefling their va-
cated places, and then back again at the return of
fpring.

Very few tribes of birds build, or rear their
young, in the fouth or maritime parts of Virginia
aP'^ Carolina, Georgia and Florida; yet all thefe
numerous tribes, particularly of the foft billed
kinds, which breed in Pennfylvania, pafs in the
fpring fcafon through thefe regions in a few weeks
time, making but very fliort ftages by the way :
and again, but few of theni winter there, on their
return foutherly : and as I have never travelled
the continent fouth of ]SIew Orleans, or the point
of Florida, where few or none of them are to be
feen in the winter, I am entirely ignorant how far
fouthward thev continue their route, durinc: their
abfence from Pennfylvania ; but perhaps none of
them pafs the tropic.

"When in my refidence in Carolina and Florida,
I have ken vaft flights of the houfe fwallow (hirur-
do pelafgia) and bank martin (hirundo riparia) paf-
fing onward north toward Pennfylvania, where they
breed in the fpring, about the middle of March«
and likewife in the autumn in September or Odo^^
ber, and large flights on their return fouthward.
And it is oblervable that they always avail them-
felves of the advantage of high and favourable
winds, which likewife do all birds of padage. Tlie
pewit, or black cap flycatcher, of Catefby, is the
firft bird of paffage which appears in the fpring in
Pennfylvania, winch is gent'rnlly about the firfl', or

middle

2S4 TRAVELS IN

middle of Marcb ; and then wherever they appesi>
we may plant peas and beans in the open grounds,
fvicia fativa) French beans (phafeoliis) few rad-
dlflies, (raphanus) lettuce, (ladluca) onions, (cepa)
paftinaca, daucus, and almofl every kind of ef-
culent garden feeds, without fear or danger from
fiofls ; for although v/c have fometimes frofts after
their lirft appearance for a night or tv/o, yet not fo
fevere as to injure the young plants.

In the fpring of the year the fmall birds of paf-
fage appear very fuddenly in Pcnnfylvania, which
is not a little furprifmg, and no lefs pleafnig : at
.once the woods, the groves, and meads, are filled
with their melody, as if they dropped down from
the fides. ' The reafon or probable caufe is their
fetting off with high and fair winds from the foulh-
ward ; for a ftrong fouth and fouth-weft v/ind about
-the beginning of April never fails bringing millions
of thefe welcome vifitors.

Being willing to contribute my mite toward^
iiluflrating the fubjed of the peregrination of the
tribes of birds of N. America, I fhall fubjoin a
nomenclature of the birds of pafiage, agreeable to
my obfervation, when on my travels from New
England to Neiv-Orleans, on the rvliirillippi, and
point of Florida.

Land birds which are feen in Pcnnfylvania,
Maryland, Virginia, from S. Carolina, Georgia,
and Florida, N. and the fea coaft Weftv/ard, to the
Apalachian mountains, viz.

* These arrive in Pcnnfylvania in the fpring
feafon from the South, and after building nefls,
and rearing their young, return again Southerly in
the autumn,

j TmES^

NORTH AMERICA. £^5

f These arrive in Pennfylvania in the autumn,
from the North, where they continue during the
winter, and return again the fpring following, I
fuppofe to breed and rear their young ; and thefe
kinds continue their journies as far South as Caro-
lina and Florida.

I TiiFSE ariive in the fpring in Carolina and
Florida trom the South, breed and rear their young,
and return South again at the approach of win-
ter, but never reach Pennfylvania, or the Northern
States.

II These are natives of Carolina and Florida,
where they breed and continue the year round.

^ Thefe breed and continue the year round in
Pennfylvania.

Sir IX. The Owl.

I Strix ardicus, capite levi, corpore toto nivco ;

the great white owl.
^ Strix pythaules, capite aurito, corpore rufo j

the great horned owl.
■f Strix maximus, capite aurito, corpore niveo ;

the great horned white owl.
•[ Strix acclamator, capite levi, corpore grifeo ;

the whootinfj owl.

o

I Strix peregrinatoT, capire aurito, corpore ver-
ficolore ; the fliarp winged owl.

^ Strix affio, capite aurito, corpore ferrugineo ;
the little fcreech owl.

VuLTUR. The Vulture.

Ij Vultur aura ; the turkey-buzzard.
IJ Vultur facra ; the white tailed vulture,
jl Vultur atratus ; black vulture, or carrion crow,

Falco.

285 TRAVELS I^

Falco. Eagle and Hawk.

^ Falco regalis ; the great grey eagle.
^ F. leucocephalus ; the bald eagle.

* F. pifcatorius ; the fifhing eagle.

^ F. Aquilinus^: cauda ferrug. great eagle hawk.
^ F. galHnarius ; the hen hawk.
^ F. pullarius ; rhe chicken hawk.

* F. colurabarius ; the pigeon hawk.
^ F. niger ; the black hawk.

* F. ranivorus ; the marfh hawk.

* F. fparverius ; the leaft hawk or fparrow fpark.

a MiLvus. Kite Hawk.

II Falco furcatus ; the forked tail hawk, or kite.
II F. glaucus ; the fharp winged hawk, of a pale

fky-blue colour, the tip of the wings black.
11 F. fubceruleus ; the fiiarp winged hawk, of a

dark or duiky blue colour.
II Pfittacus Carolinienfis ; the parrot of Carolina,

or parrakeet.

CoRvus. The Crow kind.

* Corvus carnivorus ; the raven.

Jl C. maritiinus ; the great fea-fide crow, or rook.

^ C. frugivorus ; the common crow.

*[ C. criitatus, f. pica glandaria ; the blue jay.

^ C. Floridanus, pica glandaria minor ; the little

jay of Florida.
^ Gracula quifcula ; the purple jackdaw of the

fea coaft.

a Kite hawks. Thcfc arc charadcerlfed by having Ion* fliarp pointed
wings, being of fwift flight, failing without flapping their wings, lean
light bodies, and feeding out of their claws on tlie wing, as tliey gently
fail round and round.

Pica gh'.ndaria ccrulea non criflata, the little jay «f EaftFJorida.

NORTH AMERICA. ^87

* Gracula purpurea ; the leffer purple jackdaw,

or crow blackbird.

* Cuculus Carolinienfis ; the cuckoo of Carolina.

Picus. Woodpeckers.

jl Picus principalis ; the greateft crefted wood-
pecker, having a white back.

* P. peilatus j the great red crefted black wood-

pecker.

* P. erythrocephalus ; red headed woodpecker.
■ P. auralus ; the gold winged woodpecker.

^ P. Carolinus ; the red bellied woodpecker.
^ P. pubefcens ; the leafl fpotted woodpecker.
•[ P. villofus ; the hairy, fpeckled and crefted

woodpecker.
^ P. varius ; yellow bellied woodpecker.
•[ Sitta Europea ; grey black capped nuthatch.
] S. varia, ventre rubro j the black capped, red

bellied nuthatch.
f Certhia rufa ; little brown variegated creeper.

* C. pinus ; the pine creeper.

* C. picla; blue and white llriped or pied creeper.
'" Alcedo alcyon ; the great crefted king-fiflier.

* Trochilus colubris ; the humming bird.

* Lanius grifeus ; the little grey butcher-bird of

Pennfylvania.

* L. garrulus ; the Httle black capped or butcher

bird of Florida.
^ L. tyrannus ; the king bird.

* Mufcicapa nunciola ; the pewit, or black cap

flycatcher.

* M. criftata ; the great crefted yellow bellied

flycatcher.

* M. rapax ; the leffer pewit, or brown and

greenifli flycatcher.
"* M. fubviridis ; the little olive col'^. flycatcher.

* Mufcicapa

288 TRAVELS III

* Mufcic^pa" caAtatrix ; the little domeftic fly-

catcher or green wren.
. * M. fylvicola ; the little red eyed flycatcher.

* Columba Carolinienfis, the turtle dove.
Ij C. paflferina ; the dove.

jj C. migratoria j the pigeon of paflage or wild

pigeon.
^ Alauda magna ; the great meadow lark.
I A campeftris ; gutture flavo ; the fl^y lark.
I A. migratoria ; corpore toto ferrugineo, the

little brown lark.
^ Turdus migratorius ; the fieldfare, or robin

redbreafl.

* T. rufus ; the great, or fox coloured thrufli.

* T. polyglottos ; the mocking bird.

* T. melodes ; the wood thrufh.

*^ T. minimus, vertice auro ; the leafl golden
crown thrufh.

* Oriolus Baltimore; Baltimore bird or hang neft.

* O. fpurius ; the goldiinch or icterus minor.

* Merula flammula; fand-hill redbird of Carolina.

* M. MarilandJca ; the fummer redbird.

* Garrulis aullralis ; the yellow brealled chat.

* Lucar lividus,. apice nigra ; the cat bird, or

chicken bird.
^ Ampelis garrulus; crown bird, or cedar bird-

Granii^op.ous Tribes.

^ Meleagris Americanus ; the wild turkey.
<[[ Tetrao lagopus ; the mountain cock, or grous.
^\ T. tympanus ; the pheafant of Pennfylvania.
5f J\ minor, f. coturnix ; the quail or partridge.
^ Loxia cardinalis ; the red bird, or Virginia

nightingale.
f L. roflro forficato ; the crofs beak.

* L. cerulea ; the blue crofs beak.

NORTH AMERIC.U 2%^

* Embetizaoryzivoraj (i) the rice bliu.*

f E. livida ; the blue or flate coloured rice bird,

* E. varia ; (2) the pied rice bird..

I Linaria ciris ; the painted finch, or nonpariil.

* L. cyanea ; the blue linnet.

^ Carduelis Aniericanus ; the goldfinch.
I C. minus ; the lefler goldfinch.
I C. pufilus ; the leail finch.

* Fringilla erythrophthalma ; the towhe bird.
'J- F. purpurea ; the purple finch.

f F. cannabina j the hemp bird.

f F. rufa ; the red, or fox-coloured ground or

hedge fparrow.
I F. fufca ; the large brown white throat fparrow.

* Paifer domeflicus ; the little houfc fparrow

or chipping bird.

* P. paluflris ; the reed fparrow.

* P. agreftis ; the little field fparrow.
f P. nivalis ; the fnow bird.

^ Calandra pratenfis ; the May bird.

^■' Sturnus pnedatorius; the red winged flarling,

or corn thief.
"^ S. flercorarius ; the cowpen bird.

* Motacilla fialis ; the blue bird. (Rubicula

Americana, Cat.j

* M. fluviaiilis ; the water wagtail.

* M. domeftica, (regulus rufus) ; the houfe wren.
^ * M. paluftris ; (reg. minor) the marfli wren.

* M. Caroliniana ; (reg. magnus) the great

wren of Carolina, the body of a dark brown,
the throat and bread of a pale clay colour.

* Regulus grifeus ; the little bluifh grey wren,
f R. criltatus j the golden crown wren.

* (l, 2) Are generally fuppofed fo be male aini remalc of the famifpe-
•ie* '^zj or the pied lie: bud :h; male, and (1 ) cr the yellow, the female.

U f R.

i9« Travels in

I R. crillatus alter vertice rubini colons ; the
ruby crown wren. (G. Edwards.)

* R. peregrinus, gutture flavo j the olive coloured

yellow throated wren.

* Ruticilla Americana; the redftart.

* Lufcihl^a, f. philomela Americana ; the yellow

hooded titmoufe.
- Paruo criftatus j bluifti grey creiled titmoufe^
^ P. Europjeus ; the black cap titmoufe.

* P. luteus ; the fummer yellow bird.

* P. cedrus uropygio flavo ; the yellow rump.

* P. varius ; various coloured little finch creeper.

* P. peregrinus ; little chocolate breafl titmoufe. |

* P. aureus vertice rubro ; the yellow red pole.

* P. aurea vertice ; the golden crown flycatcher,

* P. viridis gutture nigro j- the green black

throated flycatcher.

* P. alls aureis ; the golden winged flycatcher.

* P. aureus alis ceruleis j the blue winged yellow

bird.

* P. grifeuS' gutture luteo j. the yellow throated

creeper.

* Hirundo pelafgl'a cauda acukata; the houfe

^fvvallow.

* H. purpurea ; the great purple martin.

* H. riparia vertice purpurea ; the bank martin.

* H. cerdo ; the chimney fwallow.

} Caprimulgus lucifugus ; the great bat, or
chuck wills widow.

* C. Americanusj nighthawk, or whip poor will,-

Amphibious, or Aquatic Birds,

Or fuch as obtain their food, and refide, in an4

near the water.

Grus. The Crane.

jl Grus clamator, ^vertice papillofo, corpore ni-

veo

NOR.TH AMEPvICA. 29 S

Veo lemigibus nigris ; the great whooping
crane.
I G. pratenfis ; corpore cinereo, verticc papil-
lofo ; the great favanna crane.

Ardea. The Heron.
^ Ardea Herodias ; the great bluifli gr^y creftcd
heron.

* A. immaculata ; the c^reat white river h.-ron.

* A. alba minor ; the Httle white heron.

I A. purpurea criftata ; the little crifled purple
or blue heron.

* A. varia criftata ; the grey white crefled heron.
I A. maculata crillata ; the fpeckled crefted

heron, or crabcatcher.

* A. mugitans ; the marfh bittern, or Indianhen.

* A. clamator, corpore fubcaeruleo j the (^uaw

bird, or frogcatcher.
} A. fubfufca flillata ; the little brownifti fpotted

bittern.
I A. violacea ; the crefted blue bittern, (called

poor Job.)

* A. virifcens ; the green bittern or poke.

* A. virifcens minor, the lefier green bittern.

* A. parva ; the lead brown and ftriped bittern.

* Platalea ajaja ; the fpoonbill, feen as tar North

as Alatamaha river in Georgia.
Tantai.us. The wood Pelicaji.
I Tantalus loculator ; the wood pelican.

I T. albus ; the white Spanifli curlew.

+ T. fufcus ; the dui'ky and white Spanifli curlew.

II T. piclus ; (Ephoufl^yka Indian) the crying

bird, beautifully fpeckled.
jj T. Ichthyophagus ; the ganijet ; perhaps little

different from the Ibis.
II Numenius alba varia ; the white godwit.
*y N. pedore rufo ; the i^reat red breafted godwit.
U2 fTN.

'SjZ TRAVELS IN

fr N. Americana ; the greater godwit.

^ N. fluvialis ; the redlhank or poolfnipe.

^r N. magnus rufus ; the great lea coaft curlew.

* N. minor campeftris ; the lefler field curlew.
•[ N. cinereus j the feafide leffer curlew.

* Scolopax Americana rufa j great red woodcock.
^ S. minor arvenfis ; the meadow fnipc.

* Tringa rufa ; the red cootfooted tringa.

T. cinerea, gutture albo j the white throated

cootfooted tringa.
T. vertice nigro ; black cap cootfooted tringa.

«[ W maculata ; the fpotted tringa.

^i T. grifea j the little pond fnipe.

«[ T.*fufca ; the little brown or afli coloured
pool fnipe.

^ T. parva ; the little tringa of the fea {hore,
called fand bird.

'* Morinella Americana ; the turnftone or dotrcl.

\ Cygnus ferus j the wild fwan.

I AnTer Canadenfis ; the Canadian goofe.

i A. alis casrulis ; the blue winged goofe.

i A. fufcus maculatus ; the laughing goofe.

I A. branta, corpore albo, remigibus nigris j
the white brant goofe.

} A. branta grifea maculata; the great parti-
coloured brant, or grey goofe.

I Anas fera torquata major, caput et collum
viridi fplendentia, dorfum grifeo fufcum,
pe£lore rufefcente, fpeculum violaceum ; the
great wild duck, called duck and mallard.

j A. nigra maxima ; the great black duck.

j A. bucephala ; the bull-neck and bufFaloe head.

I A. fubcai^rulea ; the blue bill.

i A. liucocephala ; the black white faced duck.

i A. caudacuta ; the fprig tail duck.

f A. ruftica j the little brown and white duck.

f A.

NORTPI AMERICA. 293

I A. princlpali*, maculata ; the various coloured
duck, his neck and breaft as though orna-
mented with chains of beads.

I A minor pidla ; the httle black and white
duck called butterback.

QuERQUEDULAE Teal.

* Anas fponfa ; the fummer duck.
I A. difcors ; the blue winged teal.

i A. migratoria ; the lead green winged teal.

* A. fiftulofa ; whiftUng duck.

I Mergus major pe£lore rufo ; great fifhing duck.
I M. cucullatus ; the round crefted duck.

* Colymbus migratorius ; the eel crow.

jj C. Floridanus ; the great black cormorant of

Florida, having a red beak.
^ C. colubrinus, cauda elongata ; the fnake bird

of Florida,
^ C. muficus ; the great black and white pied

diver or loon.
\ Colymbus ardicus ; the great fpeckled diver.
*![ C. auritus et cornutus j the little eared brown

dobchick.
«[ C. minor fufcus ; little crcfled brown dobchick.
\ PhacCthon aethereus ; the tropic bird.
•[ Larus albus ; the great white gull.
•[ L. grifeus ; the great grey gull.
\ L. albus minor ; the little white river gull,
jl Onocrotalus Americanus ; the American fea

pelican,
jj Petrclla pintada ; the pintada bird.
•[ Rynchops niger ; the fnearwater or razor bill.
I Pelicanus aquilus ; the frigate, or man of war

bird.
\ P. fula ; the booby,
f Sterna ftoliJa j the fea fwallow, or noddy.

Charadrus.

294 TRAVELS IN

Charadrus. The Plover kind.

* Charadrus vociferus ; the kildea or chattering

plover.

* C. maculatus ; the great field fpotted plover.

* C. minor ; the little feafide ring necked plover,
*" Haematopns oftrcalccus ; the v/ill willet or

oyfler catcher.
Jl Fulica Floridana ; the great blue or flate co-
loured coot of Florida.

* Rallus Virginia' ius ; the force bird or little

brown rail, alfo called widgeon in Fennfyl.
\ R. acquaticus minor ; the little dark blue water
rail.

* R. rufus AmericarAis ; the greater brown rail.
}j R. major fubcaeruleus ; the blue ov fiate co-
loured water rail of Florida.

* Phoenicopterus ruber ; the flamingo, feen

about the point of Florida, rarely as far N.
as St. Auguftinc.

1 am convinced there are yet feveral kinds of
land birds, and a great number of aquatic fowl, that
have not come under my particular notice ; there-
fore fliall leave them to the inveftigation of future
travelling naturalifts of greater ability and in-
duflry.

There yet remain fome obfervations on the paf-
fage, and breeding of birds, hz. which may be
proper to notice in this place,

^ I fhall fird mention the rice bird, (emberlza
oryzivora.) It is the commonly received opinion
that they are male and female of the fame fpecies,
i. e. the black pied rice bird the male, and a yel-
lowifh clay coloured one the female : the lafl men-
tioned appearing '^only in ths autumn, when the

oryzj^

NORTH AMERICA. 2^^

oryza zlzania are about ripening, yet in my opinion
there are fome ftrong circumftances which feem to
operate againll fuch a conjeclure, though generally
believed.

In the fpring, about the middle of May, the
black pied rice bird (which is called the male) ap-
pears in Pennfylvania ; at that time the great yel-
low ephemera, called May tly, and a fpccies of
Iccufla appear in incredible multitudes, the favorite
delicious food of thefe birds, when they are fpright-
ly, vociferous, and pleafmgly tuneful.

When I was at St. Augufline, in E. Florida, in
the beginning of April, the fame fpecies of grafs-
hoppers were in multitudes on the fields and com-
mons about the town ; when great flights of thefe
male .rice birds fuddenly arrived from the South,
which by feeding on thefe infecls became e::tremely
fat and delicious : they continued here two or three
weeks, until their food became fearer, when they
difappeared, I fuppofc purfuing their journey North
after the locufta and ephemera ; there were a few
of the yellow kind, or true rice bird, to be feen
amongft them. Now thefe pied rice birds feem
to obferve the fame order and time in their migra-
tions Northerly, with the other fpring birds of paf-
fage, and are undoubtedly on their way to their
breeding place ; but then there are no females with
them, at leafl not one to ten tlioufand of the male
colour, which cannot be fuppofcd to be a fiiiiicient
number^to pair and breed by. Being in Charleftou
in the month of June, I obferved at a gentleman's
door, a cage full of rice birds, that is of the yellow
cr female colour, who were very merry and vo-
ciferous, having the fame variable mufic ^yith the

pied

i9^ TRAVELS IN

pied or male kind, which I thought extraordinary,
and obferving it to the gentleman, he aflured me
that they were all of the male kind, taken the pre-
ceding Ipring, but had changed their colour, and
would be next fpring of the colour of the pied,
thus changing colour with the feafons of the year.
If this is really the cafe, it appears they arc both of
the fame fpecies intermixed, fpring and fall. In the
fpring they are gay, vocifeiuus and tuneful birds.

Ampelis garrulus ; crown bird or cedar bird,
Thefe birds feed on various forts of fucculent fruit
and berries, affociating in little flocks or flights,
and are to be feen in all the regions from Canada
to New Orleans on the Miflifllppi, and how much
farther South and South-Weft I know not. They
obferve no fixed time of appearance in Pennfyl-
vania, but are to be feen in a few days every month
of the year ; fo that it is diflicult to determine at
what feafon they breed, or where, The longeft
period of their appearance in Pennfylvania is in the
ipring and firft of June, at the time the early cher-
ries are ripe, when they are numerous ; and in the
autumn v,'hen the Cedar berries are ripe (Juniperus
Americana ; thev arrive in large flights, and, with
the robins (turdus migratorius) and yellow rump
(parus cedrus) foon ftrip thofe trees of their berries,
after which they difappear again ; but in November
and December they appear in fmaller flights, feed-
ing on the fruit of the Perfimon fDyofpyros Vir-
gimana ;) and fome are feen till March, fubfifting
upon Smilax berries. Privet (Liguftrum vulgare)
and other permanent fruits ; after which they dif-
appear until May and June. I have been informed
by fome people in Pennfylvania, that they have
found their nefts at thefe feafons in Pennfylvania.

Linariii

NORTH AMERICA. 297

Linaria cirls (emberiza clris Linn.) or painted
finch, or nonpareil of Catcfby, is not feeu North
of Cape Fear, in North Carolina, and feldoni ten
miles from the fea coafl:, or perhaps twenty or
thirty miles, near the banks of great rivers, in
fragrant groves of the Orange (Citrus aurantium)
Zanthcxylon, Laurus Bovbonia, Calline, Sider-
oxylon. Sec,

Linaria cyanea (tanagra Linn.) the blue linnet,
isfuppofedby fome to be the nonpareil, in an early
flage of life, not being yet arrived to his brilliancy
and variety of colours ; but this is certainly a mii-
take, for the blue linnet is longer and of a ilenderer
configuration, and their notes more variable, vehe-
ment and fonorous. And they inhabit the continent
and fea coafl iilands from Mexico to Nova Scotia,
from the fea coaft. Weft beyond the Apalachean
and Cherokee mountains. The fongs of the non-
pareil are remarkably low, foft and warbling, ex-
ceedingly tender and foothing.

Catefby, in his hiftory of^ Carolina, fpeaking of
the cat-bird (mufcicapa vertice nigro) fays, " They
have but one note, which refembles the mewing
of a cat ;" a miftake very injurious to the fame of
that bird ; he, in reality, being one of our mofl
eminent fongfters, little inferior to the philomela
or mock-bird ; and, in fome remarkable inflances,
perhaps, exceeds them both, in particular as a butl.
toon or mimick. He endeavours to imitate every
bird and animal, and in many attempts does not ill
fucceed, even in rchearfing the fongs, which he at-
tentively liftens to, from the fliepherdefs and rural
fwain ; and will endeavour and fucceed ^o admira-
tion, in repeating the melodious and variable airs
from inftrumental mufic, and this in his wild ftate

of

29?> , TRAViil.S INT

of nature. They are a kind of domeftic bird
during their fpring and fummer refidence in Pennfyl-
viinia, building their nells in gardens and fheltering .
ihemlelvcs in groves near the houfes. They caufe
great trouble and vexation to hens that have broods
of chickens, by imitating their diilreffing cries, in
v.hich they feem to enjoy much delight, and caufe
fome amufcmcnt to perlons who are diverted at fuch
incidents. They are the fir ft bird heard fmging in
trie morning, even before break of day.

They feem to be a tribe of birds feparated by
nature from the motacilla:, with which the zoologifts
liave clalfed them, and appear allied to a tribe pe-
culiar to America, to which Edwards has eiven the
name of manakin. In their nature they feem to
take place between the thrufh (turdus) and mota-
cilla* their beak being longer, ftronger, and ftraighter
than the moLacilla, and formed for eating fruit,
which is their chief food ; yet they will feed on rep«
tile infecls, but never attempt to take their prey on
the wing.

Catefby is chargeable with the like miftake with
refpect to the little thrufn (t. minor) and the fox;
coloured thrufli t. rufus both eminent fingers, and
the latter little inferior to the mock-bird. The
former for his (lirill, fonorous and elevated (trains
in the high, fhady forefts ; and the latter for vari-
ety, foftnefs and conftant refponfes in the hedges
and groves near hcufes.

But yet Catefliy has fome right of claim to our
excufe and juftification, for his detradion of the
fame due to thefe eminent muficians of the groves
and forefts, when we confider that he refided and
jnade his colleftions and obfervations, in the regi-

' " ■ o^s

NORTH AMERICA. s.gg

ons which are the winter retreats and refidence of
thefe birds, where they rarely fmg ; as it is obferva-
ble and moft true, that it is only at the time of incu-
bation, that birds fmg in their wild (late of nature.
The cat-bird, great and lefs thrufli and fieldfare,
feldom or never build in Carolina beneath the moun-
tains, except the great or fox coloured thrufli in a
few inflances ; but all thefe breed inPennfylvania.

The pari^keets (pfitacus Carolinienfis) never
reach fo far North as Pennfylvkinia, which to me is
unaccountable, confidering they are a bird of fuch
fingularly rapid flight, that they could eafily perform
the journey in ten or twelve hours from North Caro-
lina, where they are very numerous, and we abound
with all the fruits which they delight in.

I was afiiired in Carolina, that thefe birds, for a
month or two in the coldefl: winter weather, houfi
themfclves in hollow Cyprefs trees, clinging fafl: to
each other like bees in^a hive, where they continue
in a torpid llate until the warmth of the returnin'^
fpring reanimates them, when they ifllie forth fron^
their late dark, cold winter cloifler.-;. But I lived
feveral years in North Carolina and never was wit-
jiefs to an inftance of it ; yet I do not at all doubt
but there have been inflances of belated flocks thu.>
furprifed by fudden fevere cold, and forced into fuch
flielter, and the extraordinary feverity and perfeve-
rancc of the feafon might have benumbed them into
a torpid, fleepy flate ; but that they all willingly
Ihould yield to fo difagreeable and hazardous a fiiu-
ation does not feem reafonable or natural, when we
confider that they are a bird of the fwifteft flio-ht and
impatient of fevere cold. They are eafily'^tamed
when they become docile and familiar, but never
Jeainto imitate the human language.

Both

300 TRAVELS IN

Both fpccles o^ the Bahlmore bird (orlolus, Linn,
icterus, Cat.j are fpring birds of paflage and breed
in Pennfylvania ; thty have loud and mcifical notes.

The yellow breafted chat (oenanthe, Cat. mota-
cilla trochilus, Linn.) is in many inftances a very
lingular bird ; the variablenefs and mimickry of his
notes or fpeech, imitating various creatures ; and
a furprifmg faculty of utrering a coarfc, hollow
founding noife in their throats or crops, which at
times feems to be at a great di (lance, though ut-
tered by a bird very near, and vice verfa. They
arrive in Pennfylvania from the South, late in the
jnonth of May, breed and return again early in ^lu*
tumn.

It is a matter of enquiry, what fnould have indu-
ced the zoologifts to clafs this bird with the motacil-
l<c, when they difcover no one chara£leriftic to in-
duce fuch an alliance ; this bird having a remarks-
able thick, ilrong bill-, more like the frugivorous
tribes : and in my opinion they are guilty of the like
overfight in claffing the fummer red-bird with the
mufcicapa, this bird having a thick, ftrong bill, ap^
preaching nearer the ftarling (fturnus.)

Thefe hiftorical obfervations being noted, wewll}
again rcfutne the fubjed of our journey.

GHAP,

NORTH AMERICA. 331

L

CHAP. XL

After the predatory band of Shninoles, undler
the condu6\ of the Long Warrior, had decamped,
Mr. M'Latche invited me with him on a vifit to an
Indian town, about twelve miles diftance from the
trading-houfe, to regale ourfelves at a feaft of Wa-
ter Melons and Oranges, the Indians having brought
a canoe load of them to the trading-houfe the day
preceding, which they difpofed of to the traders.
This was a circumflance pretty extraordinary to me,
it being late in September, a ieafon of the year when
the Citruels are ripe and gone in Georgia and Caro-
lina ; but here the weather yet continued hot and
fultry, and confequently this cool, exhilarating-
fruit was flill in high reUih and cltimalion.

After breakfafting, having each of us a Siminole
horfe completely equipped, we fat oif : the ride
was agreeable and varioufly entertaining. W'e
kept no road or pathway conftanily, but as Indian
hunting tracks by chance fuited our courfe, riding
through high open, pine forclls, green lawns and
flowery favannas in youthful verdure and gaity,
having been lately burnt, but now overrun with a
green enamelled carpet, chequered with hommocks
of trees of dark green foliage, interfected with fer-
pentine rivulets, their banks adorned with fhrub-
beries of various tribes, as Andromeda formoxilTima,
And. nitida, And. viridis, And. calyculata. And.
axillaris, Kalmia fpuria, Annona alba, &:c. About
noon we arrived at the town, the fame little village

I pafled

302 TRAVELS IH

I paffed by on my afcent of the river, on the banks
ot the little lake below Chariotia.

We were received and entertained friendly by the
Indians, the chief of the village conducing us to a
grand, airy pavilion in the centi-e of the village. It
was four-fquare ; a range of pillars or polls on each
fide fupporting a canopy compofed of Palmetto
leaves, woven or thatched together, which fhaded a
level platform in the centre, that was afcended to
from each fide by two fleps or flights, each about
twelve inches high, and feven or eight feet in
breadth, all covered with carpets or mats, curioufly
woven of fplit canes dyed of various colours. Here
being feated or reclining ourfelves, after fmoaking
tobacco, bafkets of the choiceft fruits were brought
and fet before us.

The fields furrounding the towns and groves were
plentifully ilored with Corn, Citruels, Pumklns,
Squalhes, Beans, Peas, Potatoes, Peaches, Figs,
Oranges, &c.

Towards evening we took our leave, and arrived
at the (lores before night, having in the courfe of
the day coUefted a variety of curious fpecimens of
vegetables, feeds and roots."

The company being bufily employed in forming
their packs of leather and loading the veffel, and I
bein^- eager to augment my colledions during my
itay here, 1 eroded the river with a gang of our
people, who were tranfporting a party of horfes
to rano-e in the meadows and plains on the fide oppo-
fite to the trading-houfe ; we carried them over in
a lar^e fiat or fcow. The river was here above a
mile wide, but divided into a number of flreams by

numerous

NORTH AMERICA. JC^

numerous iflands, which occafioned the voyage to
be very troublefome, as mofl: of the horfes were
lately taken wild out of their ranges, and many of
them young and untutored. Being under the necef-
fity of pafling near the points of the iflands, they
grew relHefs and impatient to land, and it was with
great difficulty we kept them on board ; and at lalt,
when within a quarter of a mile of the oppofite
fhore, palling between two iflands, the horfes be-
came ungovernable, and moft of tliem plunged into
the river and forced over board one of our people.
I being a pretty good fwimmer, in the midfl of the
buftle, and to avoid being beat over and perhaps
wounded, leapt out and caught hold of the dock of
one of the horfes. We all landed fafe on one of
the iflands, about one hundred and fifty yards dif-
tance, and the flat followed us. After a deal of
trouble and lofs of time, we got the horfes again
into the fchow, where fecuring them by withs and
vines, we again fat off, and foon landed fafe on the
main, at a high bluft' or bank of the river, where,
after turning the horfes to pallure, and rclling our-
felves, we fat off on a vifit to a plantation en the
river, fix or eight miles dift:ance. On the way thither
we difcovered a bee tree, which we cut down, and
regaled ourfelves on the dehcious honey ; leaving
one of our companions to protecl the remainder un-
til our return with a tub, to colled it and carrv it
with us ; and in the evening we all returned fafe
with our fweet booty to the trading-houfe.

The veflfel being loaded and ready to depart, I
got all my coUedions on board. My trulty and
iortunate bark I prefented to the old interpreter.
Job AViggens, of'eu my travelling companion,

friend

3*4- TRAVELS IN

friend and benefactor ; and taking an affedlionate
and final leave of the worthy C. M'Latche and the
whole trading company, we fet fail in a neat little
fchooner for Frederica in Georgia, about the laft of
September. We had a pleafant and profperous
voyage down the grand river St. Juan*s, frequently
vifiting the plantations on the banks of the river,
efpecially at fuch times as oppofed by contrary
winds ; and according to promife did not negleft
calling on the generous and friendly Mr. Marfliall
who received me fo politely, and treated me with
fuch unparalleled friendfhip and hofpitality, when
afcending the river alone laft fpring.

We never once went out to fea during the
voyage ; for when we had defcended the river be-
low the Cow -ford, we entered the found by a chan-
nel between Fort George ifland and the main,
through which we palFed, and continued failing be-
tween the fea coaft iflands and the main to Frederica
on St. Simon's.

On my arrival at Frederica, I was again, as ufual,
friendly received and accommodated by the excel-
lent John Spalding, Efq. ; and here learning that the
honourable Henry Lawrens, Efq. had a large fhip
loading at Sunbury for Liverpool, I determined to
embrace fo favourable an offer for conveying my
collections to Europe j and hearing at the fame time
that Mr. Lawrens was dally expeded in a vefTel of
his own, at his plantations on Broton Ifland and
New Hope, in order to take a loading of rice for
the cargo of the fliip at Sunbury, I tranfported my
collections to Broton ; where meeting with Mr.
Lawrens, he gencroufly permitted me to put my
things on board his veflcl, and gave me room with

himfelf

NORTH AMERICA. 305

himfelf In the cabin ; and the merchant in Liverpool,
to whom the fhip was configned, being his frlend-
and correfpondcnt, and a IViend of Dr. Fothergill's,
Mr. Lawrens propofed to recommend my collec-
tions and letters to his care.

Thefe favourable circumftances thus co-operating,
after bidding adieu to my friends and liberal patrons
in thefe parts, I embarked on board this veifel, and
after a fhort and pleafant paiTage through the found,
arrived at Sunbuvy, from whence, after fliipping my
colledions, 1 fet fail again for Charlefton, South
Carolina ; where being arrived, I fpent the feafon
in fhort excurfions until next fpring ; and during
this time of my recefs I had lelfure to plan my fu-
ture travels, agreeably to Dr. FothergiU's inftruc-
tions, and the council and advice of Dr. Chalmers
of Charlefton, with other gentlemen of that city,
eminent for the promotion of fcience and encou-
raging merit and induflry.

It was agreed that my future rout fhould be di-
tched Weft and South- Weft, into the Cherokee
country and the regions of ths Mufcogulges-or
Creeks.

JOURNAL

JOURNAL

OF THE

TRAVELS

CONTINUED.

PART II.

CHAP. I.

April 2 ad, 1776, I fat off from Charlertoil
for the Cherokee nation, and after riding this day
about twenty-five miles, arrived in the evening at
Jackfonfhurg, a village on Ponpon river. The next
day's journey was about the fame diftance, td a
public houfe or inn on the road.

The next day, early in the morning, I fat off
again, and about noon flopped at a public houfe to
dine. Afrer the meridian heats were abated, pro-
ceeding on till evening, I obtained good quarters at
a private houfe, having rode this day about thirty
miles. At this plantatiqn I obferved a large orchard
of the European Mulberry tree (Morus alba) fome
of which were grafted on Itocks of the native Mul-
berry (Morus rubra) ; thefe trees were cultivated
for the purpofe of feeding filk-worms (phalaena
bombyx). Having breakfafted, I fat forward again.

I foon

NORTH AMERICA. 307

I foon entered a high foroft, conunuing the fpace
of fifteen miles to the Three Sifters, a public ferry
on Savanna river : the country generally very
level ; the foil a dark, loofe, fertile mould, on a
itratum of cinereous-coloured tenacious clay j the
ground fhaded with its native forefts, confi fling of
the great Black Oak, Quercus tindoria, Q^ rubra,
(^ phellos, CX prinos, Q^ hemifphcrica, Juglans
nigra, J. ruftica, J. exaltata. Magnolia grandiflora,
Fraxinus excelfior, Acer rubrum, Liriodendron
tulipifera, Populus heterophylla, Morus rubra,
NylTa fylvatica, Platanus occidentaUs, Tilia, Uhnus
campcftrisj U. fubifer, Laurus AiiVafras, L. Borbo-
nia, Ilex aquifolium, Fagus fylvatica, Cornus Flo-
rida, Halefia, iEfculus pavia, Sambucus, Callicar-
pa, and Stewartia malachoJendron, with a variety
of other trees and flirubs. This ancient fublime
foreft, frequently interfcded with extenfive ave-
nues, viftas and green lawns, opening to extenfive
favannas and far diftant Rice plantations, agreeably
employs the imagination, and captivates the fenfes
by fcenes of magnificence and grandeur.

The gay mock-bird, vocal and joyous, mounts
aloft on filvcred wings, rolls over and over, then
gently defcends, and prefides in the choir of the
tuneful tribes.

Having dined at the ferry, I croflfed the river
into Georgia : on landing and afcending the bank,
which has here a North profped, I obferved the
Dirca paluftris, growing fix or feven feet high. I
rode about twelve miles further through Pine Fo-
refts and favannas. In the evening I took up my
quarters at a delightful habitation, though not a
common tavern. Having ordered my horfe a (ta-
ble and provender, and refreflied my fpirits with a
X 3 draught

30^ Travels in

draught of cooling liquor, I betook myfelf to con-
templation in the groves and lawns. Direfting my
fteps towards the river, I obferved in a high Pine
foreft on the border of a favanna, a great numbet
of cattle herded together, and on my nearer ap-
proach difcovered it to be a cow pen ; on my com-
ing up 1 was kindly faluted by my hofl and his
wife, who I found were fuperintending a number
of Haves, women, boys and girls, that were milk-
ing the cows. Here were about forty milch cows
and as many young calves ; for in thefe Southern
countries the calves run with the cows a whole
year, the people milking them at the fame time.
The pen, including two or three acres of ground,
more or iefs, according to the {\ock, adjoining a
rivulet or run of water, is enclofed by a fence : in
this enclofure the calves are kept while the cows
are out at range : a fmall part of this pen is par-
titioned off to receive the cows, when they come
up at evening : here are feveral flakes drove into
the ground, and there is a gate in the partition
fence for a communication between the two pens.
When the milkmaid has taken her fliare of milk,
ilie loofes the calf, who ftrips the cow, which is
next morning turned out again to range.

I found thefe people, contrary to what a travel-
ler might, perhaps, reafonably expeft, from their
occupation and remote fituation from the capital or
any commercial town, to be civil and courteous ;
and though educated as it were in the woods, no
itrangers to fenfibility, and thofe moral virtues
which grace and ornament the mofl approved and
admired characters in civil fociety.

After the vefTels were filled with milk, the daily
and liberal fupply of the friendly kinej and the

good

NORTH AMERICA. 3O9

good wife, "with her maids and fervants, were re-
turning with it to ths dairy ; the gentleman was at
leifure to attend to my inquiries and obibrvations,
which he did with complaifance, and apparent plea-
fure. Oa my obferving to him that his flock of
horned cattle mufl: be very confiderable to affbrl
fo many milch cows at one time, he anfwered, that
he had about fifteen hundred head : " my ftock is
but young, having lately removed from fome dif-
tance to this place ; I found it convenient to pa!t
vvith mofl of my old ftock and begin here anew ;
Heaven is pleafed to blefs my endeavours and in-
dullry with fuccefs even beyond my own expecta-
tions." Yet continuing my interrogatories on this
fubje6l : your ftock I apprehend mufl be very pro-
fitable, being fo convenient to the capital and fea
port, in afibiding a vafl quantity of beef, butter and
cheefe, for the market, and mufl thereby contribute
ffieatly towards your emolument : " yes, I find my
ilock of cattle very profitable, and I conftantly con-
tribute towards fupplylng the markets with beef,
but as to the articles of butter and cheefe, I make
no more than w hat is expended in my own houfe-
hold, and I hive a confiderable family of black
people, who, though they are flaves, mull be fed,
and cared for : thofe I have, were either chofen for
their good qualitits, or born in the family, and I
fmd from long experience and obfervaiion, that the
better they are fed, ciotliei] and treated, the more
fervlce and profit we may "xpecl to derive from
their labour : in fhort, I find my flock produce.'? no
more milk, or any article of food or npuriilimenr,
than what is expended to tb.e b^ll advantage amongll
my family and ilaves/'

He added, come along with me towards (he river
bank, where I have fome men at work fquaring

Pine

310 TRAVELS IN

Pine and Cyprefs timber for the Weft-India market ;
1 \vill (liow you their days work, when you will rea-
dily grant that I have reafon to acknowledge my-
felf lufficiently gratified for the little attention be-
llowed towards them. At yonder little new habi-
tation near the bluff on the banks of ihe river, I
have fettled my eldell: fon ; it is but a few days fince
he was married to a deferving young woman.

Having at length arrived near the high banks of
the majefiic Savanna, we flood at the timber land-
ing : almofl every object in our progrefs contri-
buted to demonflrate this good man's fyftem of
economy to be not only pradicable but eligible -y
and the flaves appeared on all fides as a crowd of
witneiTes to jullify his induftry, humanity and libe«
ral fpirit.

The flaves comparatively of a gigantic flature,
fat and mufcular, were mounted on the maflive
timber logs ; the regular heavy flrokes of their
gleaming axes re-echoed in the deep forefls; at the
fame time, contented and joyful, the footy fons of
Afric forgetting their bondage, in chorus fung the
virtues and beneficence of their mafler infongs of
their own compofition.

The log or timber landing is a capacious openi
area, the lofty pines* having been felled and clear-
ed away for a confiderable diftance round about,
near an almofl perpendicular bluff or fleep bank
of the river, rifmg up immediately from the water
to the height of fixty or feventy feet. The logs
being dragged by timber wheels to this yard, an4

* Pinus paluftrls, Linio the long leaved Pitch Pine, or yellow Pine.

landed

NORTH AMERICA. 3II

landed as near the brink of this high bank as pof-
fible with fafety, and laid by the fide of each other,
are rolled off and precipitated down the bank into
the river, where being formed into lafts, they are
conducted by flaves down to Savanna, about fifty
miles below this place.

Having contemplated thefe f.enes of art and in-
duftry, my venerable hoft, in company with his ion,
condui^led me to the neat habitation, which is fitu-
atcd in a fpacious airy forefl, a little dillance from
t'le river bank, commanding a comprehenfive and
varied profpetSl ; an extenfive reach of the river in
front ; on the right hand a fpacious lawn or fiivan-
na j on the left the timber yard j the vaft fertile
low lands and forefts on the river upwards ; and the
plantations adjoining. A cool evening arrived after
a fultry day. As we approach the door, conducted
by the young man, his lovely bride arrayed in na-
tive innocence and becoming modefiy, with an air
and fmile of grace and benignity, meets and falutes
us ! what a Venus ! what an Adonis ! faid I in filent
tranfport ; every action and feature feem to reveal
the celeftial endowments of the mind : though a
native fprightUnefs and fenfibility appear, yet virtue
and difcretion direct and rule. The drefs of this
beauteous fylvan queen was plain but clean, neat
and elegant, all of cotton, and of her own fpinning
and weaving.

Next morning early I fat forward profecuting
my tour. 1 purfued the high road leading from
Savanna to Augufta for the diftance of one hundred
miles or more, and then rccroffed the river at Sil-
ver Bluff, a pleafant villa, the property and feat of
G. Golphin, efquire, a gentleman of very diftin-

guilhed

312 * TRAVELS IN

guiflied talents and great liberality, who poffefTcd
the moft extenfive trade, connexions and influence,
amongfl the Souch and South- Weft Indian tribes,
particularly with the Creeks and Chadaws ; of
whom I fortunately obtained letters of recommen-
dation and credit to the principal traders refiding in
the. Indian towns.

Silver Bluff is a very celebrated place. It is a
coufiderable height upon the Carolina fhore of the
Savanna river, perhaps thirty feet higher than the
low lands on* the oppofite (hore, which are fubjeft
to be ov(=rflowed in the fpring and fall. This deep
bank *iies perpendicularly out of the river, diicover-
ing various ftrata of earth ; the furface for a confi-
derable depth is a loofe fandy loam, with a mixture
of fea Ihells, efpecially oilrcse ; the next flratum is
clay, then fand, next marl, then clays again of vari-
ous colours and qualities, which lali infenfibly mix
or unite with a deep flratum of blackifl:; or dark
Hate coloured faline and fulphureous earth, which
iecms to be of an aluminous or vitiiolic quality,
and lies in nearly horizontal lamina or ftrata of va-
rious thicknefso We difcovered bellemnites, pyrites,
marcafites and fulphureous nodules, fnining like
brafs, feme fmgle of various form.s, and others con-
glomerated, lying in this black Haty-like micaceous
earth ; as alio IHcks, limbs and trunks of trees,
leaves, acorns, and their cups, all tranfmuted or
changed black, hard and fhining as charcoal : we
alfo fee animal fubftances, as if petrified, or what
are called ftiarks' teeth, (dcntes carchavia:) ; but
thefe heterogeneous fubftances or petrifaOions are
the moft abundant and confpicuous where there is a
loafer kind of earth, either immediately upon this
vafl ftr-tituni of blacb eanh, or in the divifipns of

the

KORTH AMERICA. 313

the hmin<e. The furface of the ground upon this ■
blu0^, extends a mile and a half or two miles
on the river, and is from an half mile to a mile in
bieauth, nearly levelj and a good fertile foil ; as i$
e\ident from the vaft Oaks, Hickory, Mulberry,
Black walnut and other trees and fhrubs, which are
left Handing in the old fields which are fpread
abroad to a great dillance ; and difcovers various
monuments and vedigcs of the refidence of the
ancicrj'.s ; as Indian conical mounts, terraces, areas,
£vc. as well as remains or traces of fortrefl'es of re-
gular formation, as if confhufted after the modes of
European military architecrs, which are fuppofed
to be ancient camps of the Spaniards who formerly.
iixed themielves at this place in iiupes of finding fil-
ver.

But perhaps Mr. Golphin's buildings and improve-
ments will prove to be the foundation of monuments,
of infinitely greater celebrity and permanency than
either of the preceding efiabiiflmients.

The place which at this day is called fort Moore,
is a fiupendous bluff, or high perpendicular bank
of earth, rifing out of the river on the Carolina
fliore, perhiips ninety or one hundred feet above the
common furface of the water ; and exhibits a fingu-
lar and pleafing fpet^acle to a flranger, efpecially
from the oppcfite Ihore, or as we pafs up or down
the river, prefenting a view of prodigious walls of
party-coloured earths, chicHy clays and marl of va-
rious colours, as brown, red, yellow, blue, purple,
white, &c. in hcrizontal Itratay one over the
other.

Waiting for the ferry boat to carry me over,
I walked almofl round the under fide of the bluff,
beluixt its flcep w^ll and the water of the river,

which

3.14 TRAVELS In

which gUded rapidly under my feet. I came to the
Ciircafe of a calf, which the people told me had
fallen down from the edge of the precipice above,
being invited too far by grafs and fweet herbs,
which they fay frequently happens at this place. In
early times, the Carolinians had a fort, and kept a
good garrifon here as a frontier and Indian trading
pod ; but Augufta faperfeding it, this place was dif-
mantled : and fmce that time, which probably can-
not exceed thirty years, the river hath fo much en-
croached upon the Carolina (hore, that its bed now
lies where the fite of the fort then was : indeed
fome told me that the oppofite Georgia fhore,
where there is now a fine houfe and corn field, occu-
pies the place.

The fite of Augufla is perhaps the moft delight-
ful and eligible of any in Georgia for a city. An ex-
tenfive level plain on the banks of a fine ' navigable
river, which has its numerous fources in the Chero-
kee mountains, a fruitful and temperate region,
whence after roving and winding about thofe fertile
heights, they meander through a fertile hilly
country, and one after another combine in forming
the Tugilo and Broad rivers, and then the famous
Savanna river; thence they continue near an hundred
miles more, following jts meanders and falls over
the catarads at Augufla, which crofs the river at
the upper end of the town. Thefe falls are four or
five feet perpendicular height in the fummer feafou
when the river is low. From thefe catarafts up-
wards, this river with all its tributarieSj as Broa4
river. Little River, Tugilo, &c. is one continued
rapid, with fome Ihort intervals of flill water, na-
vigable for canoes. But from Augufta downwards to
the ocean, a diftance of near three hundred miles

by

NORTH AMERICA.

315

by water, the Savanna uninterruptedly flows with
a gentle meandring courfe, and is navigable for vef-
fels of twenty or thirty tons burthen to Savanna,
where fhips of three hundred tens lie in a capacious
and fecure harbour.

Augufta thus feated at the head of navigation,
and juft below the conflux of feveral of its moft
copifiderable branches, without a competitor, com-
mands the trade and commerce of vafl: fruitful
regions above it, and from every fide to a great
diilance : and I do not hefitatc to pronounce as my
opinion, v.ill very foon become the metropolis of
Georgia.*

I chofe to take this route up Savanna river, in
preference to the ftraight and fliorter road from
Charleft:on to the Cherokee country by fort Ninety
Six, bccaufe by keeping near this great river, I had
frequent opportunities of vifuing its fteep banks,
vaft fwamps and low grounds ; and had the advan-
tage without great delay, or deviating from the
main high road, oF obferving the various foils and
fituatlons of the countries through which this fa-
mous river purines its courfe, and of examining their
various productions, mineral, vegetable and aniinal:
whereas had I purfued the great trading path by
Ninety fix, I fliould have been led over a high, dry,
fandy and gravelly lidge, and a great part of the
diftance an old fettled or reforted part of the coun-
try, and confequcntly void of the varieties of origi-
nal or novel produtTlions of nature.

Before I leave Augufta, I fliall recite a curious
phenomenon, which may furnifli ample matter for

" A fiW years after the above remark, the feat of gov^rnment was re-'
movr<! from Savanna to Aujfuila.

philofophical

31 6 TRAVELS IN

philofophlcal difcuffion to the curious naturalifts.
On the Georgia fide of the river, about fifteen miles
below Silver Bluff, the high road croffes a ridge of
high fwelling hills of uncommon elevation, and
perhaps feventy feet higher than the furface of the
river. Thefe hills, from three feet below the com-
mon vegetative furface, to the depth of twenty or
thirty feet, are compofed entirely of foffil oyfter
{hells, internally of the colour and confiftency of
clear white marble ; the fhells are of incredible
magnitude, generally fifteen or twenty inches in
length, from fix to eight wide, and two to four in
thicknefs, and their hollows fufficient to receive an
ordinary man's foot : they appear all to have been
opened before the- period of petrifaction, a tranfmur
tation they feem evidently to have fuffered ; they
are undoubtedly very ancient or perhaps antidelu-
vian. The adjacent inhabitants burn them to lime
for building, for which purpofe they ferve very
well ; and would undoubtedly afford an excellent
^nanure when their lands require it, thefe hills be-
ing now remarkably fertile. The heaps of fhells lie
upon a ftratum of a yellowifh fandy mould, of feve-
ral feet in depth, upon a foundation of foft white
rocks, that has the outward appearance of free-ftone,
but on ftrid examination is really a teftaceous con-
crete or compofition of fand and pulverifed fea
fnells : in fhort, this teftaceous rock approaches near
in qualiry and appearance to the Bahama or Bermu-
dian white rock.

Thefe hills are fiiaded with glorious Magnolia
grandifiora, Morus rubra, Tiha, Quercus, Uhnus,
Juglans, &c. with aromatic groves of fragrant
CalHcanthus Floridus, Rhododendron ferrugineum,
Laurus Indica, kc. iEfculus pavia, Cornus Flo-
rida,

NORTH AMERICA. ^IJ

rida, Azalea coccinea, Philadelphus inodorus and
others ; but who would have expected to fee die
Dirca paluflris and Dodecatheon meadea grow in
abundance in this hot cHmate! it is true they are
feen in the rich and deep fliaded vales, between the
hills and North expofure ; but they attain to a de-
gree of magnitude and fplendour never feen in Penn-
fylvania.

CHAP.

31$ TRAVELS i^^

CHAP. II.

After conferring with gentlemen in Augufla^
converfant in Indian affairs, concerning my future
travels in thofe diflant, unexplored regions, and
obtaining letters to their agents in the Indian ter-
ritories, I fet off, proceeding for Fort James Dart-
mouth, at the confluence of Broad River with
Savanna, the road leading me near the banks of the
river for the diftance of near thirty miles, crofling
two or three of its confiderabie branches, befides
rivulets and fmaller brooks. The furface of the
land uneven, by means of ridges or chains of fwell-
ing hills and correfponding vales, with level downs ;
the foil a loofe, grayifh-brown loamy mould on the
hills, but darker and more cohefive and humid in the
vales and downs ; this fuperficiat, vegetative earth,
covers a deep ftratum of very tenacious yellowilh
clay : the downs afford grafs and various herbage ;
the vales and hills, forefl trees and fhrubs of various
tribes, i. e. Quercus tindoria, (^alba, Q^ rubra, (^
lobata, Acer rubrum, A. Saccharinum, A. glaucum,
Merus rubra, Gleditfia triacanthus, Juglans hickory,
various fpecies, Quercus philos, C)uer dcntata, f.
hemifpherica, Quercus aquatica, or Maryland
Water Oak, Uimus fylvatica, Liriodendron, Li-
quid-amber Diofpyros, Cornus Florida, Prunus In-
dica, Prunus padus and i^fculus pavia ; and, near
water courfes in the vales, Stewartia malachoden-
dron, Halefia, iEfculus fylvatica, Styrax, Carpinus,
Magnolia acuminata, Mag. tripetala, Mag. auri-
culata, Azalea, kc. The rich humid lands in the
vales borderhig on creeks and bafes of the hills,
likewife produce various trees, flirubs and plants,
as Cercis, Corylus, Pttba, Evonimus, Philadelphus

inodorus.

KORTH AMERICA. 315

ifiodorus, Staphylea trifoliata, Chionanthus, Ha-»
mamelis, Callicarpa, Sambucus, Cornus alba, Vi-
burnum dentatum, Spirea opulifolia, Cornus fan-
guinea, Cephalanthus, 6cc. and of herbacse a vaft
variety and abundance, as Verbcfina, Rudbeckia,
Phafeolus, Tripfacum, Aconituin napeilus, Delphi-
nium, Angelica lucida, Tradefcantia, Trillium fef-
{i\e Trillium cernuum, Aetata, Chelone, Glycine,
apios, Convalliaria racemofa, Mediola, Carduus,
Bidens frondofa. Arum tryphillum, Corcopfis alter-
nifolia, Circaea, Commelina, Alter, Solidago, Eu-
patorium, Helianthus, and Silphium, together with
a variety of other tribes and fpecies new to me. In
the evening 1 arrived at Little river, and took up my
quarters at a public houfe on its banks, near its
confluence with the favanna. This is a beautiful ra-
pid water, about fifty yards over. On a branch pf
this river is fituated the town of Wrightfborough,

Near the ford, on the banks of this river, I firfl
obferved a very curious flirub, a beautiful ever-
green, which appears to be allied to the Rhodo-
dendron, though the feed veffels feem to bear more
the charaderiftics of the Kalmia. This fhrub grows
in copfes or Uttle groves, in open, high fituarions,
"where trees of large grov^^th are but fcatteringly
planted ; many fimple flcms arife together from a
root or fource erett, four, five and fix feet high ;
their limbs or branches, which are produced to-
wards the top of the ftems, alfo ftand nearly ered,
lightly diverging from the main flems, which are
furnilhed with moderately large ovate pointed in-
tire leaves, of a pale or yellowifli green colour ;
thefe leaves are of a firm, compad texture, both
lurffces fmooth and lliining, and ftand nearly ered

upon

52a TRAVELS ur

upon fhort petioles ; the branches terminate with
long, loofe panicles or fpikes of white flowers, whofe
fegments ar!^ live, long and narrow.

I arcfe ear!y next morning and continued my
journey for Foit James. This day*s progrefs v/as
agreeably entertaining, from the novelty and vari-
ety of objecis and views : the wild country now al- *
nioft depopulated, vaft forefts, expanfive plains and
detached groves ; then chains of hills whofe gra-
velly, dry.; barren fummits prefent detached piles of
rocks, which delude and flatter the hopes and ex-
pe6lations of the folitary traveller, full fure of
hofpitable habitadons ; heaps of white, gnawed
bones of the ancient buftaloe, elk and deer, indif-
criminately mixed with thofe of men, half grown
over with mofs, altogether, exhibit fcenes of un-
eultivated nature, on reflection, perhaps, rather
difagreeable to a mind of delicate feelings and fen-
fibility, fmcc fome of thefe objects recognize pail
tranfadions and events, perhaps not altogether re-
concileable to juflice and humanity.

How harmonious and fweetly murmur the purl-
ing rills and fleeting brooks, roving along the
fhadowy rales, pafl^nig through dark, fubterranean
caverns, or dafhing over fteep rocky precipices,
their cold humid banks condenfmg the volatile va-
pours, v/hich falling coalefce in cryftalllne drops, on
the leaves and elafl:ic twigs of the aromatic ihrubs
and incarnate flowers ! In thefe cool, fequeflered,
rocky vales, we behold the following celebrated
beauties of the hills, fragrant Calycanthus, blulh-
ing Rhododendron ferrugineum, delicate Phila-
delphus inodorus, which difplays the white wavy
mantle, with the fky robed Delphinium, perfumed

Convallaria

NORTH AMERICA. 32I

Convallaria and fiery Azalea, flaming on ihe af-
cending hills or wavy furface of the gliding brooks.
The epithet fiery, I annex to this mod celebrated
fpecies of Azalea, as being exprellive of the appear-
ance of its flowers, which are in general or the co-
Jour of the finefl red lead, orange and bright gold,
as well as yellow and cream colour ; thefe various
fplendid colours are not only in feparate plants, but
frequently all the varieties and fliades are feen in
feparate branches on the fame plant ; and the cluf-
ters of the bloifoms cover the Ihrubs in fuch incre-
dible profufion on the hill fides, that fuddenly open-
ing to view from dark fliades, we are alarmed with
the apprehenfion of the hill being fet on fire. This
is certainly the moft gay and brilliant flov/ering
fhrub yet known : it grows in little copfes or
clumps, in open forefl:s as well as dark groves, with
other flirubs, and about the bafes of hills, efpecially
where brooks and rivulets wind about them : the
buflies feldom rife above fix or feven feet in height,
and generally but three, four and five, but branch
and fpread cheir tops greatly ; the young leaves are
but very fmall whilH the flirubs are in bloom, from
which circumflance the plant exhibits a greater fliow
of fplendour.

Towards evening I croffed Broad river at a good
ford, jufl: above its confluence with the Savanna,
and arrived at Fort James, which is a four fquare
llockade, with faliant bafl:ions at each angle, mount-
ed with a block-houfe, where are fome fwivel guns,
one fl;ory higher than the curtains, which are pier-
ced with loop-holes, breafl: high, and defended by
fmall arms. The fortification enclofes about an
acre of ground, where is the governor's or comman-
dant's houfe, a good building, which is flanked on
each fide by builJings for the cfiicers and barracks

Y for

322 TRAVELS IN

for the garrifon, confifling of fifty ranges, Including
oiEcers, each having a good horfe well equipt, a
rifle, two dragoon piftols, and a hanger, befides a
powder horn, ihot pouch and tomahawk. The fort
ilands on an eminence in the forks between the Sa-
vanna and Broad rivers, about one mile above Fort
Charlotta, which is fituated near the banks of the
Savanna, on the Carolina fide. Fort James is fitu-
ated nearly at an equal diftance from the banks of
the two '-ivers, and from the extreme point of the
land that feparates them. The point or peninfula
between the two rivers, for the diftance of two miles
back from the fort, is laid out for a town, by the
name of Dartmouth, in honour to the earl of Dart-
mouth, who, by his intereft and influence in the
Britifii councils, obtained from the king a giant and
powers in favour of the Indian trading company of
Georgia, to treat with the Creeks for the ceflion of a
quantity of land fuflicient to difcharge their debts to
the traders, for the fecurity and defence of which
territory this fortrefs was eltablifhed.

This territory, called the New Piirchafe, con-
tains about two millions of acres, lying upon the
head of great Ogechee, between the banks of the
Savanna and Alatamaha, touching on the Occone,
and taking within its precincts all the waters of
Broad and Little rivers ; comprehending a body of
excellent and fertile land, well watered by innume-
rable rivers, creeks and brooks.

I made a little excurfion up the Savanna river,
four 01* five miles above the fort, with the furgeon
of the gariifon, who was fo polite as to attend me
to fhow me fome remarkable Indian monuments,
which are worthy of every traveller's notice. Thefe
wonderful labours of the ancients (land in a level

plain.

NORTH AMERICA. 323

plain, very near the bank of the river, now twenty
or thirty yards from it. They confift of conical
mounts of earth and four fquare terraces, &zc. The
great mount is in the form of a cone, about forty or
fifty feet high, and the circumference of its bafe two
or three hundred yards, entirely compofcd of the
loamy rich earth of the low grounds : the top or
apex is flat : a fpiral path or track leadin/j from the
ground up to the top is flill vifible, where now grows
a large, beautiful fpreading Re^ Cedar (Juniperus
Americana) : there appear four niches, excavated
out of the fides of thiis hill, at different heights
from the bafe, fronting the four cardinal points ;
thefe nitches or ccntry boxes are entered into from
the winding path, and f^tm to have been meant for
refting places or look-outs. The circumjacent level
grounds are cleared and planted with Indian Com
at prefent ; and I think the proprietor of thefe lands,
who accompanied us to this place, fald that the
mount itfelf yielded above one hundred bufliels in
one feafon : the land hereabouts is indeed exceed-
ing fertile and producllN e.

It Is altogether unknown to us, v>'fiat could have
induced the Indians to ralfe fuch a heap of earth in
this place, the ground for a great fpace around be-
ing fubjcd to inundations, at leaft once a year,
from which circumftance we may conclude ^hey
had no town or fettled habitations here. Some Ima-
gine thefe tumuli were conftruded for look-out
towers. It Is reiTonable to fuppofe, however, that
they were to ferve fome important purpofe in thofe
days, as they were public works, and v/ould have
required the united labour and attention of a who'e
nation, circumftanccd as they were, to have con-
flrucled one of them almofl in an iwe. There are

Y 2 feveral

324 TRAVELS IN

.feveral lefs ones round about the great one, with
fome very large tetragon terraces on each fide, near
one hundred yards in length, and their furface four,
fix, eight and ten feet above the ground on which
they ftand.

We may however hazard a conjefture ; that as
there is generally a narrow fpace or ridge in thefe
low lands, immediately bordering on the river's
bank, which is eight or ten feet higher than the ad-*
joining low grounds, that lie betwixt the dream and
the heights of the adjacent main land, which, when
the river overflows its banks, are many feet under
water, when, at the fame time, this ridge on the
river bank is above water and dry, and at fuch in-
undations appears as an ifland in the river ; thefe
people might have had a town on this ridge, and
this mount raifed for a retreat and refuge in cafe of
inundations, vv^hich are unforefeen and furprize thenx
very fuddenly, fpring and autumn.

Having finiflied my colledllons and obfervations,
which were extended to a confiderable diftance in
the environs of Dartmouth ; May i oth fat off
again, proceeding for Keowe ; rode fix or eight
miles up the river above the fort ; crofled over into
Carolina and foon got into the high road ; but had
not proceeded far, when I was furprifcd by a fudden
very heavy fhowcr of rain, attended with terrific
thunder, but luckily found prefent iliclter at a farm
lioufe, where I continued above an hour before
its fury abated ; when I proceeded again, and not-
withftanding this detention and obftacles in confe-
quence of the heavy rains in raifing the creeks, tra-
velled thirty five miles, and arrived in the evening
at Mr. Cameron's, deputy commiffary for Indian
affairs for the Cherokee nation, to whom I was re-
commended

NORTH AMERICA. 325

commended by letters from the honourable John
Stewart, fuperintendant, refiding at Charlefton,
mentioning my bufmefs in the Cherokee country.

The road this day had led me over an uneven
country, its furface undulated by ridges or chains
of hills, fometimes rough with rocks and ftoncs, yet
generally produiSlive offorells, with a variety of ve-
getables of inferior growth, i. e. Quercus, various
fpecies, Juglans hickory, varieties, Liriodendron,
Fraxlnus, Fagus fylvatica, Fagus caftanea, Fagus
pumila, f. Chinkapin, Nyfla Sylvatica, Acer ru-
brum, yEfculus fylvatica, Magnolia acuminata.
Magnolia tripetala, Andromeda arborea, llopea
tinctoria, .^.fculus pavia, Viburnum, Azalea flammea
^nd other fpecies ; Hydrangea, Calycanthus, &c.

The feafon being uncommonly wet, almofl: daily
fhowers of rain, frequently attended with tremen-
dous thunder, rendered travelling difagreeable, toil-
fome and hazardous, through an uninhabited wll-
dernefs, abounding with rivers and brooks. I was
prevailed upon bv Mr. Cameron to flay at his houfe
a few days, until the rains ceafed and the rivers could
be more eafily forded.

The angelica lucida or nondo grows here in
abundance ; its aromatic carminative root is in tafle
much like that of the Ginfeng (Panax) though more
of the tafte and fcent of Anife feed ; it is in high
eftimation with the Indians as well as white inha-
bitants, and fells at a great price to the Southern
Indians of Florida, who dwell near the fea coafl
where this never grows fpontaneouily. I obferved
a charming fpecies of Malva, having panicles of
large fpkndid purple or deep blue flowers ; and an-
other fpecies of Malva, very fmgular indeed, for

it

326 TRAVELS IN

k is a climber ; the leaves are broad, which, with
the whole plant, are hoary ; the flowers are very
finall, and of a greenifh white. Here gross s alfo in
abundance a beautiful fpecies of Delphinium ; the
flowers differ in no refpect from thofe of the corn-
man branching Larkfpur of the gardens ; they arc
of a fine deep blue colour, and difpofed in long
fparied fpikes ; the leaves arc compound, almolt
linear, but the fegments not fo fine cut as thofe of
the garden Larkfpur.

The weather now fettled and fair, I prepared to
proceed for Fort Piince George Keowe, having ob-
tained of the agreeable and liberal Mr. Cameron,
ample teftimonials and letters of recommendation to
the traders in the nation : this gentleman alfo very
obligingly fent a young negro Have to afTid and pilot
me as far as Seneca.

May 15th I left Lough-abber, the feat of Mr.
Cameron. In the courfe of this day's journey I
croffed feveral rivers and brooks, all branches of the
Savanna, now called Keowe, above its confluence
with the Tugilo, the Weft main branch. The face
of the country uneven, by means of ridges of hills
and water couries ; the hills fomev.hat rocky near
their fummits and at the banks of rivers and creeks,
but very fertile, as there is a good depth of a loofe
dark and molt vegetative mould, on a ftratum of
reddifli brown tenacious clay, and fomctimcs a deep
flratum of dufl^y brown marl. The vegetable pro-
ductions obferved during this day's progrefs, were
generally the fame as already recited fmce leaving
Dartmouth. The flaming Azaleas abound, and illu-
minate the hill fides; and a new and fmgularly
beautiful fpecies of A'TcuIus pavia, fituated above
them, tov.ards the fummits of chefe low hills. This

confpicuoufly

NORTH AMERICA. 327

confplcuoufly beiiutiful flowering flirub, grows to
the height of five or fix feet ; many divergent crook-
ed Oems arife together from a root or fource, which
dividing their branche^^ wreath about every way,
after a very irregular and free order ; the exterior
fubdivifions of thefe Hnibs terminate with a heavy
clufter or thyrfis of rofe or pink coloured Howers,
fpeckled or variegated with crimfon, larger, more
expanfive and regular in their formation than thofe
of the Pavia ; and thefe heavy fpikes of flowers,
charged with the morning dews, bend the flender
flexile ftems to the ground : the compound leaycs
:ire of the configuration of thofe of the Pavia, but
broader and their veins more prominent. The
fhrubs growing about the tops of the more barren
grafl*y hills, where large trees are few and fcattered,
(how thenifelves to great advantage, and make a
fine appearance.

There are abundance of Grape vines (Vltis vlni-
fera) which ramble and fpread themfelves over
the fhrubs and low trees in thefe fituations, and I
v-'as aflured produced fruit affording an excellent
juice : the grapes are of various colours when ripe,
of the figure and about the fize of the European
wine grapes. Arrived at Sinica in the evening, af-
ter travelling foity live miles through an uninhabited
wildernefs.

The Cherokee town of Sinica Is a very refpe^a-
ble fettlement, fituated on the Eafl bank of the Kc-
owe river, though the greatefl number of Indian
habitations are on the oppofite flioic, v/here like-
wife ftands the council-houfe, in a level plain be-
twixt the river and the raiige of be?.uiiful lofty hills,
.which rife magnificently, and feem to bend over
the green plains and the river : but th^ chief's boufe,

with

32S TRAVELS IN

with thofe of the traders, and fome Indian dwelliftgs,
are feated on the afcent of the heights on the oppo-
fite lliore. This fituation in point of profped
far excels the other, as it overlooks the whole fet-
tlement, the extenfive fruitful plains on the river
above and below, and the plantations of the inhabi-
tants, commanding a moil comprehenfive diverfi-
fied. view of the oppofite elevations.

Sinica is a new town rebuilt fmce the late Indian
war, when the Cherokees were vanquifhed and com-
pelled to fue for peace, by General Middleton,
commander of the CaroHnian auxilaries ading
agai'nfl them, when the lower and middle fetdements
were broken up : the number of inhabitants are now
eilimated at about five hundred, and they are able
to mufter about one hundred warriors.

Next day I left Sinica alone, and after riding
about fixteen miles, chiefly through high forefls of
excellent land at a little diltance from the river, ar-
rived in the evening at fort Prince George Keowe.

Keowe is a mod charming fituation, and the ad-
jacent heights are naturally fo formed and difpofed,
as with little expence of military architefture to be
rendered almoll impregnable. It lies in a fertile
vale, at this feafon enamelled with the incarnate
fragrant flrawberries and blooming plants, through
which the beautiful river meanders, fometimes gently
flowing, but more frequently agitated, gliding
fwiftly between the fruitful flrawberry banks, envi-
roned at various diflances by high hills and moun-
tains, fome rifmg boldly almofl upright upon the
verge of the expanfive lawn, fo as to overlook and
fliadow it, whilfl others more lofty, fuperb, miily
and blue, majeftically mount far above.

The

KORTH AMERICA. 329

The evening ftill and calm, all filent and peace-
able, a vivifying gentle breeze continually wafted
from the fragrant (trawberry fields, and aromatic
Calycanthean groves on the furrounding heights ;
and the wary moor fowl thundering in the diflant
echoing hills : how the groves and hills ring with
the ihrill perpetual voice of the whip-poor-will !

Abandoned as my fituatlon now was, yet thank
heaven many objefts met together at this time, and
confpired to conciliate, and in feme degree com-
pofe my mind, heretofore fomewhat dejeded and
unharmonized : all alone in a wild Indian country-,
a thoufand miles from my native land, and a vafl
diflance from any feitlemcnts of white people. It
is true, here were fome of my own colour, yet they
were ftrangcrs ; and though friendly and hofpitablc,
their manners and cuPcoms of hving fo diflerent
from what I bad been accuftomed to, adminiftered
but little to my conlolation : fome hundred miles
yet to travel ; the favage vindictive inhabitants late-
ly ill-treated by the frontier Virginians ; blood be*
ing Ipilt between them and the injury not yet wiped
away by formal treaty : the Cherokees extremely
jealous of white people trarelhng about their
mountains, efpecially if they fliould be feen peep-
ing in amongft the rocks, or digging up their
earth.

The vale of Keowe is feven or eight miles in ex-
tent, that is, from the little town of kulfage * about
a mile above, thence down the river fix or feven
miles, where a high ridge of hills on each fide of
the river almolt terminates the vale, but opens ao-ain
below the narrow ridge, and continues ten or twelve

* Sugar Towi;.

fnilcs

330 TRAVELS IN

miles down to Sinica, and in width one and two
miles. This fertile vale within the remembrance of
fome old traders with whom I converfed, was one
continued fettlement ; the fweUing fides of the ad-
joining hills were then covered with habitations,
and the rich level grounds beneath lying on the ri-
ver, was cultivated and {slanted, which now exhibit
a very different fpeclacle, humiliating indeed to
the prefent generation, the pofterity and feeble re-
mains of the once potent and renowned Cherokees :
the veftiges of the ancient Indian dwellings are yet
vifible on the feet of the hills bordering and front-
ing on the vale, fuch as polls or pillars of their ha-
bitations, &c.

There are fcveral Indian mounts or tumuli, and
terraces, monuments of the ancients, at the old fite
of Keowe, near the fort Prince George, but no In-
dian habitations at prefent ; ?nd here are feveral
dwellings inhabited by white people concerned in
the Indian trade : Mr. D. Homes is the principal
trader here.

The old fort Prince George now bears no marks
of a fortrefs, but ferves for a trading houfe.

CHAP,

NORTH AMERICA. 331

CHAP. III.

I waited two or three days at this poft expedino-
the return of an Indian who was out hunting. This
man wat recommended to me as a fui table perfon
for a protector and guide to the Indian fettlenients
over the hills ; but upon information tliat he would
not be in fliortly, and there being no other perfon
fuitable for the purpofe, rather than be detained,
and perhaps thereby fruflrated in my purpofes, I
determined to fee off alone and run all rifks.

T crofled the river at a good ford juft below the
old fort. The river here is near one hundred yards
over. After an agreeable progrefs for about two
miles over delightful ftrawberry plains, and gently
fwelling green hills, I began to afcend more fleep
and rocky ridges. Having gained a very con-
fidcrable elevation, looking around, I enjoyed a
very comprehcnfive and delightful view : Keowc
"\vhich I had but juft lofl: fight of, appeared again,
and the ferpentine river fpeeding through the lucid
green plain apparently juft under my feet. After
obferving this delightful landfcap.?, I continued on
again three or four miles, keeping the trading path,
which led uie over uneven rocky land, crolling rivu-
lets and brooks, and rapidly defcending over rocky
precipices ; when I came into a charming vale, em-
beilifiied with a delightful glittering river, which
meandered througli it, and crolfed my road. On mv
leh hand, upon'the graffy bafes of the rifing hills,
appeared the rem.iins of a town of the ancients, as

the

'^'^Z TRAVELS IN

the tumuli, terraces, pods or pillars, old Peach and
Plumb or chards, he. fufiiciently tellify. Thefe
vales and fvvelling bafes of the lurrounding hills,
afford vail crops ol" excellent grafs and herbage fit
for paflurage and hay ; of the latter, Plantago Vir-
ginica, Sangaiforba, Geum, Fragaria, &c. The
Panax quinquefolium, or Ginfeng, now appears
plentifully on the North expofure of the hill, grow-
ing out of the rich mellow humid earth amongft
the iiioues or fragments of rocks.

Having crofled the vales, I began to afcend again
the more lofty ridges of hills ; then continued about
eight miles over more gentle pyramidal hills, nar-
row vales, and lawns, the foil exceedingly fertile,
producing lofty forefts and odoriferous groves of
Calycanthus, near the banks of rivers, with Halefia,
Philadelphus inodorus, r».hododendron ferrugineum,
Azalea, Stewartia montana"'^, fol. ovatis acuminatis
iertatis, flor. niveo, ftaminum corona fulgida, peri-
carp, pomum exfuccum, apice acuminato dehifcens,
C'ornus Florida, Styrax, all in full bloom, and de-
corated vv'ith the following fweet roving climbers,
Bignonia fempervirens, Big. crucigera, Lonicera
fciupervirens, Rofa paniculata, &:c.

Nov/ at once the mount divide j and difclofe to
.view the ample Occonne vale, encircled by a
wreath of uniform hills ; their fwelling bafes clad
in cheerful verdure, over which, iiTuing from bc-
tvrcen the mountains, plays along a glittering river,
mer.ndeiing through the meadows. Croffing thefe
at the upper end of the vale, I began to afcend the
Occonne mountain. On the foot of the hills are

'^ This ■;-. 3 r/^vi fpecic; of Stcwarfla, unknown to the European bota-
>.''.":•, ■.:n\ nor uiciuioncd in auy catuiajvies.

ruin^i

KORTH AMERICA. 333

ruins of the ancient Occonne town. The firfl ftep
after leaving the verdant beds of the hills, was a
very high rocky chain of pointed hills, extremely
well timbered with the followin;^ trees : Quercus
tinftoria, Querc. alba, f^icic. rubra, Fraxinus ex-
celfior, Ju^^lans hickory, various fpecies, Ulmus,
Tilia, Acer faccharinuni, Morus, Juglans nigra,
Juglans alba, Annona glabra, Robinia pfeudacacia.
Magnolia acuminata, 7Efculu> fylvatica, with many
more, particularly a fpecies of Robinia new to mc,
though perhaps the fame as figured and flightly
defcribed by Catelby in his Nat. Hift. Carol. This
beautiful flowering tree grows twenty and thlity feet
high, with a crooked leaning trunk ; the branches
fpread greatly, and wreath about, fome almoll
touching the ground ; however there appears a
fmgular pleafing wildnefs and freedom in its man-
ner of growth ; tlie flender fubdivifions of the
branches terminate with heavy compound panicles
of rofe or pink coloured ilowers, amidll a wreath
of beautiful pinnated leaves.

My next flight was up a very high peak, to the
op of the Occonne mountain, where I refled ; and
turning about, found that I was now in a very ele-r
vated O.tuation, from whence I enjoyed a view in-
exprefiibly magnificent and comprehenfive. The
mountainous wildernefs which I had lately tra-
verfed, down to the region of Augufla, appear-
ing regularly undulated as the great ocean after a
temped ; the undulations gradually deprellmg, yet
perfeftly regular, as the fquama of lifli, or imbri-
cations of tile on a roof: the nearell ground to me
of a per fed full green ; next more glaucous ; and
hUhr abiofl: blue as the ether with v/hich the

moi

(f

334 TRAVELS IN

mod dlftant curve of the horizon feemed to be
blended.

My imagination thus wholly engaged in the con-
templation of this magnificent landfcape, infinitely
varied, and without bound, I was almoft infenfible
or regardlefs of the charming objecls more within
my reach : a new fpecies of Rhododendron fore-
moft in the aflembly of mountain beauties ; next
the flaming Azalea, Kalmia latifolia, incarnate
Robinia, fnowy mantled Philadelphus inodorus,
perfumed Calycanthus, &;c.

This fpecies of Rhododendron grows fix or feven
feet high ; many nearly ereft ftems arife together
from the root, forming a group or coppice. The
leaves are three or four inches in length, of an
oblong figure, broadefl toward the extremity, and
terminating with an obtufe point ; their upper fur-
face of a deep green and polifned ; but the nether
furface of a rufly iron colour, which feems to be
effeded by innumerable minute reddifh veficles,
beneath a fine ihort downy pubefcence ; the nu-
merous flexile branches terminare with a loofe
fpiked raceme, or clu'ler of large deep rofe co-
loured flowers, each flower being affixed in tlie
dift'ufcd clufl:er of a long peduncle, which, with the
whole plant, pofleffes an agreeable perfume.

After being recovered of the fatigue and labour
in afcending the mountain, I began again to pro-
fecute my taflc, proceeding through a fhady forefl: ;
and foon after gained the moft elevated crefl: ofahe
Occonne mountain, and then began to defcend the
other fide ; the winding rough road carrying me
over rocky hills and levels, fliaded by incomparable
forefts, the foil exceedingly rich, and of an excel-
lent

NORTH AMERICA. ^35

lent quality for the produclion of every vegetable
fuited to the clunate, and feening peculiarl/ adapt-
ed for the cultivation of Vines (Vitis vinifera),
Olives (Olea Europea), the Almond tree (Amyg-
dalus communis), Fig (Ficus carica), and perhaps
the Pomgranate, (Punica gianatum), as well as
Peaches (Amyg. Perfica), Prunus, Pyrus, of every
variety. I palfed again fleep rocky afcents, and
then rich levels, where grew many trees and plants
common in Pennfylvania, New- York and even
Canada, as Pinus Ihobus, Pin. fylvefl:! is, Pin. abies.
Acer faccharinum, Acer flriatum, f. Pennfylvani-
cum, Populus tremula, Betula nigra, Juglans alba,
Sec. ; but what feems remarkable, the yellow Jef-
famine (Bignonia fempervirens), which is killed by
a very llight frofl in the open air In Pennfylvania,
here, on the fummits of the Cherokee mountains
aflbciates with the Canadian vegetables, and ap-
pears roving with them in perre-wl bloom and gaiety ;
as likewife Ilalefia diptera, and Hal. tetraptera,
mountain Stewartia, Styrax, Ptclea, ^EQ:ulus pavia ;
but all thefe bear our hardell frolts in Pennfylvania.
Now I enter a charming narrow vale, through
which flows a rapid large creek, on whofe banks
are happily allociaced the llirubs already recited,
together with the following; Staphykea, Euoni-
mus Americana, Hamamelis, Azalea, various fpe-
cies, Ariltolochia frutefcens, f. odoratiffima, which
rambles over the trees and llrrubs on the piolilic
banks of thefe mountain brooks. Paffed throucrh
magnificent high forefls, and then came upon the
borders of an ample meadow on the lefr, embroi-
dered by the fliade of a high circular amphitheatre
of hills, the circular ridges rifing magnificently one
over the other. On the green turfy bafes of thefe
afcents appear the ruins of a town ot the ancients.

The

33^ TRAVELS IN

The upper end of this fpaclous green plain is
divided by a promontory or Ipur of the ridges be-
fore me, which projeds into it : my road led me
up into an opening of the afcents through which
the ghttering brook uliich watered the meadows
ran rapidly down, dafhing and roaring over high
rocky fteps. Continued yet afcending until I
gained the top of an elevated rocky ridge, when
appeared before me a gap or opening between
other yet more lofty afcents, through which con-
tinued as the rough rocky road led me, clofe by
the winding banks of a large rapid brook, which at
length turning to the left, pouring down rocky pre-
cipices, glided off through dark groves and high
forells, conveying ftreams of fertility and pleafure
to the fields below.

The furface of the land now for three or four
miles is level, yet uneven, occafioned by natural
mounds or rocky knobs, but covered with a good
flaple of rich earth, which aftbrds forefts of timber
trees and fhrubs. After this, gently defcending
again, I travelled fome miles over a varied fituation
of ground, exhibiting views of grand forefts, dark
detached groves, vales and meadows, as heretofore,
and producing the like vegetable and other works
of nature ; the meadows alfording exuberant paf-
turage for cattle, and the bafes of the encircling
hills, flowering plants, and fruitful ftrawberry beds :
obferved frequently ruins of the habitations or vil-
lages of the ancients. Croffed a delightful river,
the main branch of Tugilo, when I began to afcend
again, firft over fwelling turfy ridges, varied with
groves of (lately foreft trees ; then afcending again
more fteep grafly hill fides, refted on the top of
mount Magnolia, which appeared to me to be the
higheft ridge of the Cherokee mountains, which

feparate

NORTH AMERICA. 337

feparate the waters of Savanna river from thcTe of
thcTanafe or greater main branch of the Cherokee
river. This running rapidly a North- Weft courfe
through the mountains, is joined from the North-
Eaft by the Holftein ; thenqe taking a Weft courfe
yet amongft the mountains, receiving into it from
either hand many large rivers, leaves the mountains
immediately after being joined by a large river
from the Eaft, becomes a mighty river by the
name of Hogchege, thence meanders many hun-
dred miles through a vaft country confifting of
forefts, meadows, groves, expanfive favannas, fields
and fwelling hills, moft fertile and delightful, flows
into the beautiful Ohio, and in conjundion with its
tranfparent waters, becomes tributary to the fove»
reign Mifliflippi.

This exalted peak I named mount Magnolia,
from a new and beautiful fpecies of that celebrated
family of flowering trees, which here, at the caf-
cades of Falling Creek, grows in a high degree of
perfeftion : I had, indeed,, noticed this curious tree
feveral times before, particularly on the high ridges
betwixt Sinica and Keowe, and on afcending the
firlt mountain after leaving Keowe, when I ob-
fcrvcd it in flower, but here it flouriflies and com-
mands our attention.

This tree *, or perhaps rather fhrub, rifes
eighteen to thirty feet in height ; there are ufually
many ftems from a root or iburce, which lean a
little, or flightly diverge from each other, in this
refpeft imitating the Magnolia tripetala ; the
crooked wreathing branches arifmg and fubdividing
from the main ftem without order or uniformity,

• Magnolia auriculata.

Z their

33^ Travels in

their extremities turn upwards, producing a very
large rofaccous, perfedlly white, double or polype
talous flower, which is of a moft fragrant fcent ; this
fine flower fits in the centre of a radius of very large
leaves, which are of a fingular figure, fomewhat
lanceolate, but broad towards their extremities, ter-
minating with an acuminated point, and backwards
they attenuate and become very narrow towards
their bafes, terminating that way with two long,
narrow ears or lappets, one on each fide of the in-
fertion of the petiole ; the leaves have only fhort
footlbJks, fitting very near each other, at the ex-
tremities of the floriferous branches, from whence
they fpread themfelves after a regular order, like
the fpokes of a wheel, their margins touching or
lightly lapping upon each other, form an expanfive
umbrella fuperbly crowned or creflied with the
fra!:rrant flower, reprefenting a white plume ; the
blolTom is fucceedjd by a very large crimfon cone
or fl:robile, containing a great number of fcarlet
berries, which, when ripe, fpring from their cells
and are foi a time fufpended by a white filky web
or thread. The leaves of thofe trees which grow
in a rich, light humid foil, when fully expanded
and at maturity, are frequently above two feet in
length and fix or eight inches where broadefl:. I
difcovered in the maritime parts of Georgia, par-
ticularly on the banks of the Alatamaha, another
new fpecies of Magnolia, \vhofe leaves were nearly
of the figure of thole of this tree, but they were
much lefs in fize, not more than fix or feven inches
in length, and the ftrobile very fmall, oblong, fharp
pointed and of a hne deep crimfon colour ; but 1 ne-
ver fav/ the flower. Thefe trees grow fiiraight and
erect, thirty feet or more in height, and of a fliarp
conical form, much refembling the Cucumber tree
(Mag. acuminata) in figure. ^

The

NORTH AMERICA. 339

The day being remarkably warm and fultry, .
together with the labour and fatigue of afccncing
the mountains, made me very thirfly and in foma
degree funk my fpirits. Now pall mid-day, I
fought a cool fhaded retreat, where was water for
rcfrefliment and grazing for my horfe, my faithful
flave and only companion. After proceeding a
little farther, defccnding the other fide of the moun-
tain, I perceived at fome diilance before m?, on
my right hand, a level plain fupporting a grand
high forefl and groves : the nearer I approached, my
fleps were the more accelerated from the flattering
profpect opening to view. 1 now entered upon tlie
verge of the dark forefl, charming folitude ! as I
advanced through the animating fhades, obferved
on the farther gra'ffy verge a fhady grove : thither
I direfted my lleps. On approaching thefe (liades,
between the ftately columns of the fuperb forefl
trees, prefented to view, rufhing from rocky pre-
cipices under the fhade of the penfile hills, the un-
paralleled cafcade'of Falling Creek, rolling and
leaping ojf the rocks : the waters uniting below,
fpread a broad, glittering flieet over a vaft convex
elevation of plain fmooth rocks, and are immedi-
ately received by a fpacious bafon, where trembling
in the centre through hurry and agitation, they
gently fubfide, encircling the painted ftill verge ;
from whence gliding fwiftly, they foon form a de-
lightful little river, which continuing to fiov/ more
moderately, is reftraiued for a moment, gently un-
dulating in a little lake : they then pafs on rapidly
to a high perpendicular fleep of rocks, from whence'
thefe delightful waters are hurried down with irre-
fiflible rapidity. I here feated myfelf on the moL^-
clad rocks, under the fhade of fpreading trees and
floriferous fragrant fhrubs, in full view of the caf-
cades.

Z 1 At

34© TRAVELS m

At this rural retirement were aflembled a charm-
ing circle of mountain vegetable beauties ; Mag-
nolia auriculata, Rhododendron ferrugineum, Kal-
mia larifolia, Robinia montana, Azalea fiammula,
Rofa paniculata, Calycanthus Floridus, Philadelphus
inodorus, perfumed Convalaria majalis, Anemone
thalidlroides, Anemone hcpatica, Erythronium
maculatum, Leontice thalidtroides Trillium feffile,
Trillium cefnum, Cypripedium, Arethufa, Ophrys,
Sanguinaria, Viola uvularia, Epigea, Mitchella re-
pens, Stewartia, Halefia, Styrax, Lonicera, &c.
Some of thefe roving beauties flroll over the
moiry, fhelving, humid rocks, or from off the ex-
panfive wavy boughs of trees, bending over the
floods, falute their delufive fhade, playing on the
furface ; feme plunge their perfumed heads and
bathe their flexile limbs in the filver flream ; whilll
others by the mountain breezes are toffed about,
their blooming tufts bcfpangled with pearly and
cryllaline dew-drops collefted from the falling
mifts, gliftening in the rainbow arch. Having
collefted fome valuable fpecimens at this friendly
retreat, I continued my lonefome pilgrimage. My
road for a confiderable time led me winding and
turning about the fteep rocky hills ; the defcent of
fome of which were very rough and troublefome, by
means of fragments of rocks, ilippery clay and talc :
but after this I entered a fpacious foreft, the land
having gradually acquired a more level furface : a
pretty graify vale appears on my right,, through
which my wandering path led me, clofe by the
banks of a delightful creek, which fometimes falling
over fleps of rocks, glides gently with ferpentine
meanders through the meadows.

After croffing this delightful brook and mead,
the land rifes again with fublime magnificence, and

I am

NORTH AMERICA. 34I

J am led over hills and vales, groves and high
forefts, vocal with the melody of the feathered
fongfters ; the fnow-white cafcades glittering on
the fides of the dift ant hills.

It was now afternoon ; I approached a charming
vale, amidft fublimdy high forefls, awful (hades!
Darkncfs gathers around ; far diflant thunder rolls
over the trembling hills : the black, clouds with
augufl majelly and pov/er, move flowly forwards,
fhading regions of towering hills, and threatening
all the deftrudion of a thunder ftorm : all around
is now flill as death ; not a whifper is heard, but a
total ina^livit^y and filence feem to pervade the
earth ; the birds afraid to utter a chirrup, iri
iow tremulous voices take leave of each other,
feeking covert and fatety : every infeft is fiienced,
and nothing heard but the roaring of the approach-
ing hurricane. The mighty cloud now expands its
fable wings, extending from North to South, and
is driven irrefiltibly on by the tumultuous winds,
fpreading its livid wings around the gloomy con-
cave, armed with terrors of thunder and fiery fliafts
pf lightning. Now the lofty forefts bend low be-
neath its fury; theh- Hmbs and wavy boughs are,
tolTed about and catch hold of each other ; the
mountains tremble and feem to reel about, and
the ancient hills to be fliaken to their foundations :
the furious ftorm fv/eeps along, fmoaking through
jhe vale and .over the refounding hills : the fac^
of the earth is obfcured by the deluge defcending
from the firmament, and I am deafened by the din
of the thunder. The terapeftuous fcene damps my
fpirits, and my horfe finks under me at the tre-
mendous peals, as I haften on for the plain.

The ftorm abating, I faw an Indian hunting

cabin,

342 TRAVELS IN

cabin, on the fide of a hill, a very ajrreeable prof-
peft, efpecially in my prefent condition ; 1 made
up to it and took quiet pofleflion, there being no
one to difpute it with me except a few bats and
whip-poor-wills, who had repaired thither for fliel-
ter from the violence of the hurricane.

Having turned out my horfe in the fweet mea-
dows adjoining, and found fome dry wood under
ihelter of the old cabin, I flruck up a fire, dried my
clothes, and comforted myfelf with a frugal repall
of bifcuit and dried beef, v/hich was all the food my
viaticum afforded me by this time, excepting a
fmall piece of cheefe which I had furnilhed myl'elf
with at Charlefton and kept till this time.

The night was clear, calm and cool, and I reded
quietly. Next morning at day break 1 was awak-
ened and fummoned to refume my daily talk, by
the flirill cries of the focial night hawk and adive
merry mock-bird. By the time the rifing fun had
gilded the tops of the towering hills, the mountains
and vales rang with the harmonious fhouts of
the pious and cheerful tenants of the groves and
meads.

I obferved growing in great abundance in thefe
mountain meadows, Sanguiforba Canadenfis and
Heracleum maximum ; the latter exhibiting a fine
fhow, being rendered confpicuous even at a great
dillance, by its great height and fpreau, vafl: pen-
natifid leaves and expanfive umbels of fnow-vvhite
flowers. The fwelling bafes of the furrounding
hills fronting the meadows prefented for my ac-
ceptance the fragrant red jflrawberry, in painted
~ beds of many acres furface, indeed I may fafely fay,
xnjiny hundreds.

After

^

NORTH AMERICA. 343

After pafling through this meadow, the road led
me over the bafes ef a ridge of hills, which as a bold
promontory dividing the fields I had juft palled,
form expanfive green lawns. On thefe towering
hills appeared the ruins of the ancient famous town
of Sticoe. Here was a vait Indian mount or tu-
mulu-. and great terrace, on which Hood the coun-
cil-houfe, with banks encompaffing their circus ;
here were alfo old Peach and Plumb orchards ;
fome of the trees appeared yet thriving and fruitful.
Prefently after leaving thefe ruins, the vale and
fields arc divided by means of a fpur of the moun-
tains p'idv'i'-: forward : here likewife the road fork-
ed J the IctL-hand path co tinued up the mountains
to the Overhill towns : I followed the vale to the
right hand, and foon began again to afcend the hills,
riding feveral miles over very rough, flony land,
yielding the like vegetable produOions as hereto-
fore ; and defcending again gradually, by a dubious
winding path, leading into a narrow vale and lawn,
through which rolled on before me a delightful
brook, water of the Tanafe. I crofl'ed it and con-
tinued a mile or two down the meadows ; when
the high mountains on each fide luddenly receding,
difcovcred the opening of the extenfive and fruit-
ful vale of Cowe, through v.hich meanders the
head branch of the Tanafe, almoll from its fource,
fixty miles, following its courfe do-wn to Cowe.

I left for a little v^'hilC, the flream pafiing fwiftly
and foaming over its rocky bed, lafhing the fleep
craggy banks, and then fuddcnly fanis: from my
fight, murmuring hollow and deep under the rocky
furface of the ground. On my right hand the vale
expands, receiving a pretty filvery brook of water

whjcl)

^^4 TRAVELS IN

U'hich came haO-ily down from the adjacent hills,
and entered the river a little diftance before me.
I now turn from the heights on my left, the road
leading into the level lawns, to avoid the hollow
rocky grounds, full of holes and cavities, arching
over the river, through which the waters are feen
gliding along ; but the river is foon liberated from
thefe folitary and gloomy recefles, and appears
waving through the green plain before me. 1 con-
tinued feveral miles, purfuing my fcrpentine path,
through and over the meadows and green fields,
and croiung the river, which is here incredibly in-,
creafed in fize, by the continual acceffion of brooks
flowing in from the hills on each fide, dividing
their green turfy beds, forming them into parterres,
viftas and verdant fwelling knolls, profufely pro-
duclive of flowers and fragrant fl:rawberries, their
rich juice dying my horfes feet and ancles.

Thefe fwelling hills the prohfic beds on which
the tow^erlng mountains repofe, feem to have been
the common fituaticns of the towns of the ancients,
as appears from the remaining ruins of them yet to
be feen, and the level rich vale and meadows in
front, their planting grounds.

Continue yet ten or twelve miles down the vale,
my road leading at times clofe to the banks of the
river, the Azalea, Kalmia, Rhododendron, Phila-
delphus, &c. beautifying his now elevated fliores,
and painting the coves with a rich and cheerful fee-
nery, continually unfolding new profpecls as I tra-
verfe the fhores : the towering mountains feem con-
tinually in motion as I pafs along, pompoufly raif-
ing their fuperb crelts towards the lofty fkies, tra-i
verfmsr the far diilant horizou.-

The

KORTH AMERICA. '^^

The Tanafe is now greatly increafed from the
conflux of the multitude of rivulets and brooks,
defcending from the hills on either fide, generoufly
contributing to eftabliih his future fame, already a
fpacious river.

The mountains recede, jhe vale expands ; two
beautifid rivulets (tream down through lateral vales,
gliding in ferpcntine mazes over the green turfy
knolls, and enter the Tanafe nearly oppofite to each
other. Straight forward the expanfive green vale
feems yet infinite : now on the right hand a lofty
pyramidal hill terminates a fpur of the adjacent
mountain, and advances almoft into the river ;
but immediately after doubling this promontory,
an expanded wing of the vale fpreads on my right,
down which came precipitately a very beautiful
creek, which flowed into the river juft before me;
but now behold, high upon the lide of a diflant
piountain overlooking the vale, the fountain of this
brifk-flowing creek ; the unparalleled waterfall ap-
pears as a vaft edifice with cryflal front, or a field
of ice lying on the bofom of the hill.

I now approach the river at the fording place,
which was greatly fwollen by the floods of rain that
fell the day before, and ran with foaming rapidity ;
but obferving that it had fallen feveral feet per-
pendicular, and perceiving the bottom or bed of
the river to be level, and covered evenly with peb-
bles, I ventured to crofs over ; however I was obli-
ged to fwim two or three yards at the deeped chan-
nel of it, and landed fafely on the banks of a fine
meadow, which lay on the oppofite fliore, where I
immediately alighted and fpread abroad on the turf
my linen, books and fpecimens of plants, &c. to dry,
turned out rny fl:eed to graze and then advanced into

the

34^ TRAVELS IM

the ftrawberry plains to regale on the fragrant, deli-,
cious fruit, welcomed by communities of the fplen-
did meleagris, the capricious roe-buck, and all the
free and happy tribes which pofTcfs and inhabit thofe
prolific fields, who appeared to inviie and joined
with me in the participation of the bountiful repaft
prefentcd to us from the lap of nature.

I mounted again, and followed the trading path
about a quarter of a mile through the fields, then
gently alcended the green beds of the hills, and en-
tered the forefls, being a point of a chain of hills
projecting into the green vale or low lands of the
rivers. This forefl continued about a mile, the fur-
face of the land level but rough, being covered with
itones or fragments of rocks, and very large, fmooth
pebbles of various fliapes and fizes, fome of ten or
fifteen pounds weight : I obferved on each fide of
the road many vaft heaps of thefe ftones, Indian
graves undoubtedly \

After I left the graves, the ample vale foon of»
fered on my right hand, through the tall foreft
trees, charming views, which exhibited a pleafing
contraft, immediately out oF the gloomy (hades and
fcenes of death, into expanfive, lucid, green, flow-
ery fields, expanding between retiring hills, and
turfy eminences, the rapid Tanafe gliding through,
as a vaft ferpent milling after his prey.

My winding path now leads me again over the
green fields into the meadows, fometimes vifiting

* At this place was fought a bloody and decIVivc battle between thefc
Indians and the Carolinians, under the condudb of general Middleton,
when a great number of Clierokee warriors were flain, which fliook their
power, tsrrified and humbled them, infomuch that the)' defertcd mod of
their fetllements in the low countries, and betook themfelves to the moun-.
t^ins as lefs acceffible to the rigular forces of the white people.

th5

NOR-TH AMERICA. 347

tjie decorated banks of the river, a3 It meanders
tlircLigh the meadows, or boldly fweeps along the
bafes ot the momitains, its furface receiving the
images remedied from the flowery banks above.

Thus was my agreeable progrefs for about fif-
teen miles, fmce I came upon the fources of the
'i'anafe, at the head of this charming vale : in the
evening efpying a human habitation at the foot of
the floping green hills, beneath lofty forefts of the
mountains on the left hand, and at the fame time
obfi-'rving a man croiring the river from the oppo-
fite fliore in a canoe and coming towards me, I wait-
ed his approach, who hailing me, I anfwered I was
for Cowe ; he' intreated me very civilly to call at
his houff, adding that he w^ould prefently come to
mc.

1 was received and entertained here until next
day with the molt perfect civility. After I had
dined, towards evening, a company of Indian girls,
inhib'tants of a village in the hills at a fmall c\K-
tance, called, having bafkets of flrawbcrries ; and
this man who kept here a trading' houfe, being
married to a Cheiokce woman of family, w^as in-
dulged to keep a flock of cattle, and his helpmate
being an excellent houfe -wife and a very agreeable
good woman, treated us with cream and ftraw-
berries.

Next moining after breakfafting on excellent
coffee, reliflied with bucanned venifon, hot corn
cakes, excellent butter and cheefe, fat forwards
3gain for Cowe, which was about fifteen miles dif-
t'ance, keeping the trading path which courfed
through the low lands between the hills and the ri-
Ter, now fpacious and well beaten by travellers,

but

^^4^ TRAVELS IIT

but fomewhat intricate to a ftranger, from the fr«,
quent collateral roads falling into it horn villages
or towns over the hills. After riding about four
miles, moftly through fields and plantations, the
foil incredibly fertile, arrived at the town of
Echoe, confiding of many good houfes, well in-
habited. I palTed through, and continued three
miks farther to Nucalfe, and three miles more
brought me to Whatoga, Riding through this
large town, the road carried me winding about
through their Uttle plantations of Corn, Beans, &c.
up to the council-houfe, which was a very large
.dome or rotunda, fituated on the top of an ancient
artificial mount, and here my road terminated.
All before me and on every fide, appeared little
plantations of young Corn, Beans, &c. divided from
each other by narrow ftrips or borders of grafs.
•which marked the bounds of each one's property,
their habitation (landing in the midfl. Finding no
common high road to lead me through the town
I was now at a ftand how to proceed farther ; when
obferving an Indian man at the door of his habita-
tion, three or four hundred yards diftance from me,
beckoning me to come to him, I ventured to ride
through their lots, being careful to do no injury tq
the young plants, the rifing hopes of their labour
and indudry ; croffed a Httle gralfy vale watered by
a filver ftream, which gently undulated through ;
then afcended a green hill to the houfe, where I
was chearfully welcomed at the door, and led in by
the chief, giving the care of my horfe to two hand-
fome youths, his fons. During my continuance
here, about half an hour, 1 experienced the mofl
perfect and agreeable hofpitahty conferred on me
by thefe happy people ; I mean happy in their dif-
pofition?, in their apprehenfions of rc»5litiide ^vith

regard

NORTH AMERICA. 349

regard to our fecial or moral condutl. O divine
fimplicity and truth, friendfliip without fallacy or
guile, hofpitality difinterefted, native, undefiled,
unmodified by artificial refinements 1

My venerable hofl: gracefully and w'ldi an air of
refpeiSt, led me into an airy, cool apartment ; where
being feated on cabins, his women brought in a re-
frefliing repaft, confilling of fodden vcnifon, hot
corn cakes, &c. with a pleafant cooling liquor made
of hommony well boiled, mixed afterwards with
milk ; this is ferved up either before or after eat-
ing in a large bowl, with a very large fpoon or ladle
to fup it with.

After partaking of this fimple but healthy and
liberal collation, and the diflies cleared off. Tobac-
co and pipes were brought ; and the chief filling one
of them, whofe ftem, about four feet long, was
iheathed in a beautiful Ipeckkd fiiake fkin, and
adorned with feathers and firings of wampum, lights
k and fmoaks a few whiffs, puffing the fmoak firft
towards the fun, then to the four cardinal points,
and laftly over my bread, hands it towards me,
which I cheerfully received from him and fmoak-
ed ; when we fell into converfation. He firft en-
quired if I came from Charleilon ? if I knew John
Stewart, Efq. how long fince I loft Charledon ? &c.
Having fatisfted him in my anfwers in the beP: man-
ner I could, he was greatly pleafed ; which I v/as
convinced of by his attention to me, his cheerful mar-
ners, and his ordering my horfs a plentiful bait of
corn, which laft inllance of refpect is conferred on
thofe only to whom they manifcfl the higheft cfteem,
feying that corn was given by the Great Spirit only
for food to man.

I acquainted

350 Travels im

I acquainted this ancient prince and patriarch
with the nature and defign of my peregrinations,
and that 1 was now for Cowe, but having loft my
road in the town, rcquefted that I might be inform-
ed. He cheerfully replied, that he was pleafed 1
was come in their country, where I fhould meet
with friehdfhip and protedion, and that he would
himfelf lead me into the right path.

After -ordering my horfe to the door, we Went
forth together, he on foot, and I leading my horfe
by the bridle ; thus walking together near two miles,
we fhook hands and parted, he returning home, and
I continuing my journey for Cowe.

This Prince is tlie chief of Whatoga, a man unl-
vcrfally beloved, and particularly elleemed by the
whites for hi-s pacific and equitable difpofition, and
revered by all for his exemplary virtues, juft, mode-
rate, magnanimous and intrepid.

He was tall and perfectly formed ; his counte-
nance cheerful and lofty, and at the fame time truly
eharaderiftic of the red men, that is, the brow
ferocious, and the eye aftive, piercing or fiery, as
an eagle. He appeared to be about lixty years of
age, yet upright and mufcular, and his limbs adive
as, yputh.

i^fter leaving my princely friend, I travelled
about {ive miles through old plantations, now under
grafs, but which appeared to have been planted the
iaft feafon ; the foil exceeding fertile, loofe, black,
deep and fat. I arrived at Cowe about noon. This
fettlement is efteemcd the capital town ; it is fitu-
ated on the bafes of the hills on both fides of the
river, near to its bank, and here terminates the great

vale

NORTH AMERICA. 35 f

vale of Cowe, exhibiting one of the mod: charraing
natural mountaneous landfcapes perhaps any where
to be feen ; ridges of hills rifing grand and fablimely
one above and beyond another, feme boldly and
majestically advancing into the verdant plain, their
feet bathed with the filver flood of the Tanafe^
whilfl others far diflant, veiled in blue mifls, fub-
limely mounting aloft, with yet greater majefty lift
up their pompous crefts, and overlook vail re-
gions.

The vale is clofed at Cowe by a ridge of mighty
hills, called the Jore mountain, faid to be the higheU:
land in the Cherokee country, which croffes the
Tanafe here.

On my arrival at this town I waited on the gen-
tlemen to whom 1 was recommended by letter, and
was received with refpe£l and every demonllration of
hofpitality and friendihip.

I took my refidence with Mr. Galahan the
chief trader here, an ancient refpeftablc man, who
had been many years a trader in this country, and
ig efteemed and beloved by the Indians for his hu-
manity, probity and equitable dealings with them ;
which, to be juft and candid I am obliged to ob'
fcrve (and bluih for my countrymen at the recital)
is fomewhat of a prodigy ; as it is a fad, I ani
afraid too true, that the white traders in their com:
merce with the Indians, get great and frequent oc-
cafions of complaint of their difiionelly and vio-
lence : but yet there are few exceptions, as in the
conduft of this gentleman, who furnifhes a living
inftancc of the truth of the old proverb, that " Ho-
nefty is the befl: policy ;" for this old honed Iliber-
niaa has often been prote<f!:ed-by the Indians, when

all

3J2 TRAVELS IN

all Others round about him have been ruined, their
property feized and themfelves driven out of the
country or (lain by the injured, provoked natives.

Next day after my arrival I croffed the river in
a canoe, on a vifit to a trader who refided amongft
the habitations on the other fhore.

After dinner, on his mentioning feme curious
fcenes amongft the hills, fome miles diftance from
the river, we agreed to fpend the afternoon in obfer-
vations on the mountains.

After riding near two miles through Indian plan-
tations of Corn, which was well cultivated, kept
clean of weeds, and was well advanced, being near
eighteen inches in height, and the Beans planted at
the Corn-hills were above ground ; we left the
fields on our right, turning to\j'ards the mountains,
and afcendiiig through a delighiful green vale or
lawn, which condu<5ted us in amongft the pyrami-
dal hills, and eroding a brifrL flowing creek, mean-
dering through the meads, which continued near
two miles, dividing and branching in amongft the
hills. We then mounted their fteep afcents, riftng
gradually by ridges or fteps one above another, fre-
quently crofTing narrow fertile dales as v/e afcend-
cd : the air felt cool and animating, being charg-
ed with the fragrant breath of the mountain beau-
ties, the blooming mountain clufter Rofe, blufliing
Rhododendron and fair Lilly of the valley. Hav-
ing now attained the fummit of this very elevated
ridge, we enjoyed a fine profpefi indeed ; the en-
chanting vale of Keowe, perhaps as celebrated
for fertility, fruitfulncfs and beautiful profpeds as
the Fields of Pharialia or the Vale of Tempe ; the
town, the elevated pecks of the Jore mountains, a

very

NORTH AMERICA. 353

very diflant profpeft of the Jore village in a beau-
tiful lawn, Jified up many thoufand feet higher than
our prefent fitu;ition, bsfides a view of many other
villages and fettlements on the fides of the moun-
tains, at various diftances and elevations ; the filver
rivulets gliding by them, and fnow white cataracts
glimmering on the fides of the lofty hills ; the bold
promontories of the Jore mountain Itepping into the
Tanafe river, whilll his foaming waters ruflisd be-
tween them.

After viewing this very entertaining fcene, wc
beean to defcend the mountain on the other fide
which exhibited the fame order of gradations or
ridges and vales as on our afcent ; and at length
relied on a very expanfive, fertile plain, amidft the
tov^ering hills, over which we rode a long time,
through magnificent liigh forefls, extenfive green
fields, meadows and lawns. Here had formerly
been a very flourilhing fettlement ; but the Indians
dcferted it in fearch of frefii planting land, which
they foon found in a rich vale but a few miles dif-
tance over a ridge of hills. Soon after entering on
tljefe charming, fequeftered, prolific fields, we came
to a fine little river, which crofiing, and riding over
fruitful flrawberry beds and green lawns, on the
fides of a circular ridge of hills in front of us, and
going round the bafes of this promontory, came to
a fine meadow on an arm of the vale, throus;h which
meandered a brook, its humid vapours bedewing the
fragrant flrawberries which hung in heavy red cluf-
ters over the giaffy verge. We eroded the rivulet ;
then rifing a Hoping, green, turfy afcent, alighted
on the borders of a grand foreft of (lately trees,
which we penetrated on foot a little diftance to a
horfe-flamp, where was a large fquadron of thofe

A a ufeful

354 TRAVELS llJ

ufeful creatures, belonging to my friend and com-
panion, the trader, on the fight of whom they af-
fembled together from all quarters ; fome at a dif-
tance faluted him with fhrill neighings of gratitude,
or came prancing up to lick the fait out of his
hand, whilfh the younger and more timorous came
galloping onward, but coyly wheeled off, and fetch-
ing a circuit flood aloof; but as foon as their lord
and mailer ftrewed the cryflaline falty bait on the
hard beaten ground, they all, old and young, docile
and timorous, foon formed themfelves in ranks and
fell to licking up the deUcious morfel.

It was a fine fight ; more beautiful creatures I
never faw ; there were of them jof all colours,
fizes and difpofitions. Every year, as they become
of age, he fends off a troop of them down to
Charleflon, where they are fold to the higheu bid-
der.

Having paid our attention to this ufeful part of
the creation, who, if they are under our dominion,
have confequently a right to our protection and fa-
vour, we returned to our trufty fervants that
were regaling themfelves in the exuberant fweet
paffures and ftrav/berry fields in fight, and mounted
again. Proceeding on our return to town, continued
through part of this high forefl {Idrting on the
meadows : began to afcend the hills of a ridge which
we w^ere under the neceffity of eroding ; and having
eained its fummit, enjoyed a mod enchanting view ;
a vaft expanfe of green meadows and ftrawbcrry
fields ; a meandering river gliding through, falut-
ing in its various turnings the fwelling, green, turfy
knolls, embcUifhed with parterres of flowers and
fruitful llrawberry beds ; flocks of turkies (trolling
about them 3 herds of deer prancing in the meads

or

NORTfl AMERICA.

355

or bounding over the hills ; companies of youno-^
innocent Cherokee virgins, fome bufy gathering
the rich fragrant fruit, others having already filled
their bafkets, lay reclined under the Ihade ot llori-
ierous and fragrant native bowers of Mignoiia,
Azalea, Philadelphus, perfumed Calvcanthus, fv/eet
Yellow Jelfamine and cerulean Glycine fruLelceiis,.
difclofmg their beauties to the fluttering breeze,
and bathing their limbs in the cool fleeting dreams ;
whilfl: other parties more gay and libertiui, were
yet coUefting ilrawberrles, or wantonly chafing their
companions, tantahfmg them, itaining their lips
and cheeks with the rich fruit.

The fylvan fcene of primitive Innocence was en-
chanting, and perhaps too enticing for hearty young
men long to continue idle fpe«ftators.

In fine, nature prevailing over reafon, we wifli-
ed at lealt to have a more adive part in their deli-
cious fports. Thus precipitately refolving, we cau-
tioufly made onr approaches, yet undifcovered, al-
moft to the joyous fccnc* of atHon. Now, although
we meant no other than an innocent frolic with this
gay aflcmbly of hamadryades, we fliall leave It to
the perfon of feeling and fenfibility to form an idea
to what lengths our paflions might have hurried us,
thus warmed and excited, had it not been for the
vlfrilance and care of fome envious matrons who
lay in ambufli, and efpying us, gave the alarm, time
enough for the nymphs to rally and aflemble toge-
ther. We however purfued and gained ground on a
group of them, who had incautioufiy (trolled to a
greater diltance from theif guardians, and finding
their retreat now like to be cut off, took flielter
under cover of a little grove ; but on perceiving
themfelves to be difcovered by us, kept their fta-
A a 2 tion.

35^ TRAVELS IN

tion, peeping through the bufhes ; when obferving
our approaches, they confidently difcovered them-
felveSj and decently advanced to meet us, half un*
veiling their blooming faces, incarnated with the
modefl maiden blufli, and with native innocence
and checrfulnefs, prefented their little bafkets, mer-
jily telling us their fruit was ripe and found.

We accepted a bafket, fat down and regaled our-
felves on the delicious fruit, encircled by the whole
affembly of the innocent jocofe fylvan- nymphs : by
this time the feveral parties, under the condu£l of
the elder matrons, had difpofed themfelves in com-
panies on the green, turfy banks.

My young companion, the trader, by conceffions
and iuitable apologies for the bold intrufion, having
compromifed the matter with them, engaged them
to bring their colle<^ions to his houfe at a Itipulated
price : we parted friendly.

And nov/ taking leave of thefe Elyfian fields, we
again mounted the hills, which we croiTed, and tra-
verfmg obliquely their fiov/ery beds, arrived in town
in the cool of the evening.

CHAP.

NORTH AMERICA. 35^

CHAP. IV.

After waiting two days at Cowe expeding a
guide and protector to the Overhiil towns, and at lad
being difappointed, I refolved to purfue the journey
alone, though againft the advice of" the traders ; the
Overhiil Indians being in an ill humour with the
whites, in confequence of fome late fkirmiflies be-
tween them and the frontier Virginians, moil of the
Overhiil traders havin? left the nation.

o

Early in the morning I fat off attended by mv
worthy old friend Mr. Gallahan, who obligingly ac-
companied me near fifteen miles. We paffed through
the Jore village, which is pleafmgly fuuated in a
little vale on the fide of the mountain ; a pretty ri-
vulet or creek winds about through the vale, juft
under the village : here I obferved a little grove
of the Cafme yapon, which was the only place where
I had feen it grow in the Cherokee country ; the In-
dians call it the beloved tree, and are very careful
to keep it pruned and cultivated : they drink a
very ftrong infuficn of the leaves, buds and tender
branches of this plant, which is fo celebrated, in-
deed venerated bv the Creeks and all the Southern
maritime nations of Indians. V\/^e then contmued
travelling down the vale about two miles, the road
deviating, turning and winding about the hills^ and
through groves in lawns, watered by brooks and
rivulets, rapidly rufhing from the tov/ering hill on

every

55^ TRAVELS IN

every fide, and flowing into the Jore, which is a
confiderable branch of the Tanafe.

Began now to afcend the mountain, following a
fmali arm or branch of the vale, which led to a gap
or narrow defile, compreifed by the high pending
hills on each fide, down which came rapidly a confi-
derable branch of the Jore, dafhing "and roaring
over rocky precipices.

Now leaving Roaring creek on our right, and
accomplifhing two or three afcents or ridges, an-
other branch of the trading path from the Overhills
to Cowe came in on our right, and here my tranfi-
tory companion Mr. Galahan parted from me, taking
this road back to Cowe ; when I was left again wan-
dering alone in the dreary mountains, not indeed to-
tally pathlefs, nor in my prefent fituation entirely
agreeable, although fuch fcenes of primitive unmo-
difiied nature always pleafed me.

May we fuppofe that mankind feel in their hearts
a predilection for the fociety of each other ; or are
we delighted with fcenes of human arts and cultiva-
tion, where the painons are flattered and entertained
with variety of objects for gratification f ^

I found myfelf unable, notwithfl:anding the atten-
tive admonitions and perluafive arguments of reafon,
entirely to erafe from my mind, thofe imprefllons
which I had received from the fociety of the amia-
ble and polite inhabitants of Charlefl:on ; and I could
not help comparing my prefent fituation in fome de-
gree to Nebuchadnezzar's, when expelled from the
fociety of men, and confl;raincd to roam in the moun-
tains and wildernefs, there to herd and feed with the
v.'ild beads of the foredso

After

NORTH AMERICA. 359,

After parting with my late companion, I went
forward with all the alacrity that prudence would
admit of, that I might as foon as poffible fee the
end of my toil and hazard, being determined at all
events to crofs the Jore mountain, faid to be the
highefl land in the Cherokee country.

After a gentle defcent, I entered on an extremely
flony narrow vale, through which coalted fwiftly a
large creek, twelve or fitteen yards wide, roaring
over a rocky bed, which I eroded with difliculty and
danger, the ford being incommoded by flielving
rocks, full of holes and clifl's. After leaving this
rocky creek, my path led me upon another narrow
vale or glade, down which came in great hafte
another noify brook, which I repeatedly ciofl'ed and
recrofled, fometimes riding on narrow level grafly
verges clofe to its banks ; Itill afcending the vale
gradraliy terminated, being fhut up by Itupendous
rocky hills on each fide, leaving a very narrow gap
or defile, towards which my road'led me, afcend-
ing the rteep fides of the mountains ; when, after
rifing feveral wearifome afcents, and finding myfelf
over-heated and tired, 1 halted at a little grafiy
lawn through which meandered a fweet rivulet.
Here I turned my horfe to graze, and fat down to
reft on a green bank juft beneath a high frowning
promontory, or obtufe point of a ridge of the moun-
tain yet above me, the friendly rivulet making a
circuit by my feet; and now a little reded, I took
out of my wallet fome bifcuit and cheefe, and a
piece of neat's tongue, compofing myfelf to eafe
and refrefliment : when fuddenly appeared within a
few yards, advancing towards me from behind the
point, a ftout likely young Indian fellow, armed
with a rifle gun. and two dogs attendinj. Upon

fieht

360 TRAVELS IN

fight of me he flood, and feemed a little farprifed, as
I was very much ; but inftantly recollecting hinifelf
and alTuming a countenance of benignity and cheer-
fulnefs, he came briikly to me and (hook hands
heartily, and fmillngly inquired from whence I
came, and whither going ; but fpeaking only in the
Cherokee tongue, our convcrfation was not conti-
nued to a great length. I prefented him with fome
choice Tobacco, which was accepted with courtefy
and evident pleafure, and to my inquiries concern-
ing the roac^sand difrance to ths Overhili towns, he
anfwered me with perfefl: cheerful nefs and good
temper. We then ap^Liin fliook hands and parted in
friendfnlp; he defcended the hills, finging as he went.

Of vegetable produdions obferved in this region,
were the follownig, viz. Acer ftriatum, Ac. rubrum,
Juglans nigra, Jug. alba, Jug. Hiccory, Magnolia
acuminata, Quercus alba, CX tinftoria, (^ rubra,
Q. prinus, with the other varieties common in Vir-
ginia : Panax ginfeng, Angelica lucida, Convallaria
majalis, Halefia, Stewartia, Styrax, Staphylea, Evo-
nimus. Viburnum, Cornus Florida, Betula nigra,
Morus, Tilia, Ulmus, Fraxinus, liopea tindloria,
Annona, Bignonia fempervirens, Ariflolochia frute-
fcens, Bignonia radicans, &c. Being now refrefh-
ed by a fimple but healthy meal, I began again to
afcend the Jore mountains, which I at length ac-
compliihed, and relied on the mod elevated peak ;
from whence I beheld with rapture and aftonifh-
ment a fublim.ely awful fcene of pov/er and mag-
nificence, a world of mountains piled upon moun-
tains. Having contemplated this amazing profpc£i
of grandeur, I defcended the pinnacles, and again
faUing into the trading path, continued gently de-
fcending through a graffy plain, fcatteringly planted

with

NORTH AMERICA. "^Sl

^vith large trees, and at a diftance furroundeJ with
high forefts. I was on this elevated region fenfible
of an alteration in the air, from warm to cold, and
found that vegetation was here greatly behind, in
plants of the fame kind of the country below ; for
inftance, when 1 left Charleifon, the yellow Jafminc
was rather paft the blooming days, and here the
buds were juft beginnin:; to fwell, though fome were
in bloom. Continued more than a mile through
this elevated plain to the pitch of the mountain,
from whence prcfented to view an expanfive profpetl,
exhibiting fccnes of mountainous landfcape, weft-
ward, vafl and varied, perhaps net to be exceeded
any where.

My firfl defcent and progrefs down the weft fide
of the mountain was remarkably gradual, eafy and
plealant, through graily open forefts for the diltancc
of two or three miles ; when my changeable path
fuddenly turned round an obtufe point of a ridge,
and defcended precipitately down a fteep rocky hill
for a mile or more, which was very troublefoine,
being incommoded with Ihattered fragments of the
mountains, and in other places with boggy links,
occafioned by oozy fprings and rills flagnate fmking
in mercaceous earth ; fome of thefe fteep foft rocky
banks or precipices feem to be continually crum-
bling to earth ; and in thefe mouldering cliiFs I dif-
covercd veins or ftrata of mod pure and clear white
earth *, having a faint bluifh or pearl colour gleam,
fomewhat exhibiting the appearance of the little
cliffs or wavy crcfts of new iallcn fnowdrifts : we
likewife obferve in thefe dillolving rocky cliffs, veins
of ifinglafs (Mica S. vitrum Mufcoviticum), fome

* Mica nitiJa : fpr d.iicns of this earth Jiave been exported to Erglaad,
{or the I'urjwfc of making Porcelain or china wajc.

of

352 TRAVELS IN

of the flakes or lanilnce Incredibly large, entire and
tranfparent, and would ferve the purpofe of lights
i'or windows very well, or for lanthorns ; and here
appeared ftrata of black lead (ftibium).

At length, after much toil and exercile, I was a
little relieved by a narrow grafly vale or lawn at the
foot of this fteep defcent, through which courfed
along a confiderable rapid brook, on whofe banks
grev; in great perfedion the glorious Magnolia
auriculata, together with the other confpicuous
flowering and aromatic fhrubs already mentioned ;
and I obferved here in the rich bottoms near the creek,
a new fpecies of Hydraftis, having very large fmuated
leaves and white flowers ; after this I continued fe-
veral miles over ridges and grafly vales watered with
delightful rivulets.

Next day proceeding on eight or ten miles, ge-
nerally through fpacious high forefls and flowery
lawns ; the foil prolific, being of an excellent qua-
lity for agriculture ; came near the banks of a large
creek or river, where this high forefl: ended on my
left hand, the trees became more fcattered and in-
fenfibly united with a grafly glade or lawn bordering
on the liver ; on the oppolite bank of which ap-
peared a very exteufive forefl, confifliing entirely of
rhe Hemlock fpruce (P. abies), almofl; encircled by
diitaat ridges of lofty hills.

Soon after crofll ng this large branch of the Ta-
nai'e, I obferved, defccnding the heights at fome
difl;ance, a company of Indians, all well mounted
on horfe back ; they came rapidly forward : on
their nearer approach I obferved a chief at the head
of the carravan, and apprehending him to be the
Little Carpenter, emperor or grand chief of the

Cherokccs,

NCWITIT AMERICA. 2^3

Cherokees, as they came up I turned off from the
path to make way, in token of refpeft, which com-
pliment was accepted, and gratefully and magnani-
mouily returned ; for his highnefs wltli a gracious
and cheerful fmile came up to me, and clapping his
hand on his bread, offered it to mc, faying, 1 am
Ata-cul-culla ; and heartily fliook hands with me,
and aflscd me if 1 knew it. I anfvvered, that the
Good Spirit who goes before me fpoke to me, and
faid, that is the great jVta-cul-culla ; and added,
that 1 was of the tribe of white men, of Pennfylva-
nia, who efleem themfelves brothers and friends to
the red men, but particularly fo to the Cherokees,
and that notwithilanding we dwelt at fo great a dif-
tance, we were united in love and fricndfhip, and
that the name of Ata-cul-culla was dear to his
white brothers of Pennfvlvania.

J

After this compliment, which feemed to be ac-
ceptable, he inquired if I came lately from Charlef-
ton, and if John Stewart was well, faying that he
was going to fee him. I replied, that I came lately
from Charleflon on a friendly vifit to the Chero-
kees ; that I had the honour of a perfonal acquaint-
ance v.'ith the fuperintendant, the beloved man,
vhoni, I faw well but the day before I fet off, and
who, by letters to ilie principal white men in the
nation, recommended me to the friendfnip and
protetlion of the Cherokees. To which the great
chief was pleafed to anfwer very refpcftfullv, that I
was welcome in their country as a fiiend and bro-
ther ; and then fliaking hands heartily bid me fare-
wel, and his retinue confirmed it by an united voice
of afient. After giving my name to the chief, rc-
tqueding my compliments to the fuperintendant,
the emperor i;novcd, continuing his journey for

Charleflon:

364 TRAVELS IN

Charleflon ; and I, yet perfifling in my intention of
vifiting the Overhill towns, continued on. Leaving
the great forefi: I mounted the high hills, defcending
them again on the other fide, and fo on repeatedly
for feveral miles, without obferving any variation
in the natural productions fince palling the Jore :
and perceiving the How progrefs of vegetation in
this mountainous, high country ; and, upon ferious
confideration, it appearing very plainly that I could
not, with entire fafety, range the Overhill fettle-
irients until the treaty was over, which would not
come on till late in June ; I fuddenly came to a
refolution to defer thefe refearches at this time, and
leave them for the employment of another feafon
and more favourable opportunity, and return to
Dartmouth in Georgia, to be ready to join a com-
pany of adventurers who Vv'^re to fet off in July for
Mobile in Weft Florida. The leader of this com-
pany had been recommended to me as a fit perfon
to affift ir,e on fo long and hazardous a journey,
throuG^h the vaft territories of the Creeks.

Therefore next day I turned about on my return,
proceeding moderately, being engaged in noting
fuch objects as appeared to be of any moment, and
collccl:ing fpecimens ; and in the evening of next
day arrived again at Co'vve.

Next morning Mr. Galahan conduced me to the
chief of Cowe, who during my abfence had return-
t'd from the chace. The remainder of this day I
fpent in obfervations in and about the town, re-
viewing my fpecimens, &c.

The tov/n of Cowe coiififts of about one hundred

dwellings, near the banks of the Tanafe, on both

fides of the river.

The

NORTH AMERICA, ^6^

The Cherokees conftruft their habitations on a
different plan from the Creeks ; that is, but one
oblong four fquare buildin?, of one ftory high ; the
materials conAfling of logs or trunks of trees, ilrip-
ped of their bark, notched 3t their ends, fixed one
upon another, and aftervv-ards plaiflered well, both
infide and out, with clay v/ell tempered with dry
grafs, and the whole covered or roofed with the
bark of the chefnut tree or long broad fhingles.
This building is however partitioned tranfverfely,
forming three apartments, which communicate with
each other by infide doors ; each houfe or habita-
tion has befides a little conical houfe covered with
dirt, which is called the winter or hot-houfe ; this
flands a few yards diflance from the manfion-houfe,
oppofite the Iront door.

The council or town-houfe is a large rotunda,
capable of accommodating feveral hundred people :
it ftands on the top of an ancient artificial mount of
earth, of about twenty feet perpendicular, and the
rotunda on the top of it being above ihirt)' feet
more, gives the whole fabric an elevaticni of about
fixty feet from the common furface of the ground.
But it may be proper to obferve, that this mount
on which the rotunda If ands, is of a much ancienter
date than the building, and perhaps was raifed for
another purpofe. The Cherokees themfelves are
us ignorant as we are, by what people or for vvhat
purpofe thefe artificial hills were raifed ; they haves
various flories concerning them, the bed of which
amount to no more than mere coniefture, and
leave us entirely in the dark ; but they have a tra-
dition common with the other nations of Indians,
that they found them in much the fame condition
as they now appear, when their forefathers arrived

from

L

366 TRAVELS IN

from the Weft and poflefled themfelves of the coun-
try, after vanquifliing the nations of red men who
then inhabited it, who themfelves found thefe mounts
when they took poflreffion of the country, the former
pofl'efibrs dcHvering the fame (tory concerning
them : perhaps they were defigned and appropriated
by the people who conftruded them, to fome reli-
gious purpofe, as great altars and temples fmiilar to
the high places and facred groves anciently amonglt
the Canaanites and other nations of Paleftine and
Judea.

The rotunda is conftruded after the following
manner : they firft fix in the ground a circular
range of polls or trunks of trees, about fix feet
high, at equal diftances, which are notched at top,
to receive into them from one to another, a range
of beams or wail plates ; within this is another cir-
cular order of very large and flrong pillars, above
twelve feet hi;;h, notched in like manner at top, to
receive another range of wall plates ; and withim
this is yet another or third range of ftronger and
higher pillars, but fewer in number, and llanding
at a greater dlftance from each other ; and laftly,
in the centre (lands a very ftrong pillar, which forms
the pinnacle of the building, and to v/hich the raf-
ters centre at top ; thefe rafters are flrengthened
and bound together by crcfs beams and laths, which
fuftain the roof or covering, which is a layer of
bark neatly placed, and tight enough to exclude
the rain, and fometimes they catl a thin fuperficies
of earth over all. There is but one large door,
which ferves at the fame time to admit light from
wit'iout and the fmoak tb efcape when a fire h
kindled ; but as there is but a fmall fire kept, fuf-
iicient to give light at night, and that fed with dry

fmall

NORTH AMERICA. 3^7

final! found wood divefled of its bark, there is but:
little fmoak. All around the infide of the building,
betwixt the fecond range of pillars and the wall, is
a range of cabins or lophas, confiding of two or
three lleps, one above or behind the other, in the-
atrical order, where the afl'embly fit or lean down ;
thefe fophas are covered with mats or carpets, very
curioufly made of thin fplints of Aih or Oak, v/oven
or platted together ; near the great pillar in the
centre the fire is kindled for light, near which the
muficians feat themfelves, and round about this the
performers exhibit their dances arid other Ihows at
public feftivals, which happen almoft every night
throughout the year.

About the ciofe of the evening I accompanied Mr,
Galahan and other white traders to ihe rotunda,
where was a grand feftival, mufic and dancing.
This affcmbly was held principally ro rehearfe ihe
ball-play dance, this town being challenged to play
againlt another the next day.

The people being alTembled and feated in order,
and the muficians having taken their ftation, the
ball opens, firil with a long harangue or oration,
fpoken by an aged chief, in commendation of the
manly exerclfe of the ball-play, recounling the
many and brilliant viclories which the town of
Cowe had gained over the other towns in the na-
tion, not forgetting or neglecting to recite his own
exploits, together with thofeof orher aged men now
prefent, coadjutors in the performance of thefe ath-
letic games in their youthful days.

This oration was delivered with great fpirit and
eloquenc'.r, and was meani: to influence the pafLons

of

\J^,.A^.iS^ - tKcu^ i'^M, *' J

-K-t.'iC'

505 Travels in*

of the young men prefent, excite them to emula*
tion, and infpire them with ambition.

This prologue being at an end, the muficlans
began, both vocal and inftrumental ; when prelently
a company of girls, hand in hand, dreifed in clean
white robes and ornamented with beads, bracelets
and a profufion of gay ribbands, entering the door,
immediately began to fmg their refponfes in a gen-
tle, low, and fvveet voice, and formed themfelves
in a femicircular file or line, in two ranks, back to
back, facing the fpedators and nmficians, moving
llowly round and round. This continued about a
quaiter of an hour, when we were furprifed by a
fudden very loud and flirill whoop, uttered at once
by a company of young fellcv;s, who came inbrifkly
after one another, with rackets or hurls in one hand.
Thefe champions likewife were well drefi'ed, paint-
ed and ornamented with filver bracelets, gorgets
and wampum, neatly ornamented with moccalins
and high waving plumes in their diadems : they
immediately formed themfelves in a femicircular
rank, alfoin front of the girls, v/hen thefe changed
their order, and formed a fmgle rank parallel to the
men, raifmg their voices in refponfes to the tunes
of the young champions, the femicircles continually
moving round. There was fomething fmgular and
diverting in their ftep and motions, and t imagine
not to be learned to exadnefs but with great atten-
tion and perfeverancc. Theflep, if it can be fo
termed, was performed after the following manner j
lirft, the mxOtion began at one end of the femicircle,
gently rifmg up and down upon their toes and
heels alternately, when the firil was up on tip-toe,
the next began to raife the heel, and by the time
the firfl relied again on the heel, the fecond-was

on

JgORTH AMERICA* 369

on tip toe, thus from one end of the rank to the
other, fo that fome were always up and fome
down, alternately and regularly, without the lead
baulk or confufion ; and they at the fame time, and
in the fame motion, moved on obliquely or fide-
ways, fo that the circle performed a double or com-
plex motion in its progreffion, and at flated times
exhibited a grand or univerfal movement, inflantly
and unexpededly to the fpedators, by each rank
turning to right and left, taking each other's places ;
the movements were managed with inconceivable
nlertnefs and addrefs, and accompanied with an in-
flantaneous and univerfal elevation of the voice, and
flirill ftiort whoop.

The Cherokees, befides the ball play dance, have
a variety of others equally entertaining. The men
efpecially exercife themfelves with a variety of gef-
ticulations and capers, fome of which are ludicrous
and diverting enough ; and they have others which
are of the martial order, and others of the chace 5
thefe feeni to be fomewhat of a tragical nature ;
vv^herein they exhibit aflonifliing feats of military
prowefs, mafculine flrength and activity. Indeed
all their dances and mufical entertainments feem to
be theatrical exhibitions or plays, varied with comic
and fometimes lafcivious interludes : the women
however conduct themfelves with a very becoming
grace and decency, inlbmuch that in amorous in-
terludes, when their refponfes and geilures feem.
confenting to natural hberties, they veil themfelves,
]ull difcovering a glance of their fparkling eyes and
bluflnng faces expreihve of fenfibility.

Next morning early I fet off on my return, and
meeting with no material occurrences on the road,
in two days arrived fafe at Keowe, where I tarried

B b two

37'

TRAVELS IN

two CT three days, employed in augmenting my
colledions of fpecimens, and waiting for Mr. Ga-
lahan, who was to call on me here, to accompany
him to Sinica, where he and other traders were to
meet Mr. Cameron, the deputy commifl'ary, to
hold a congrefs at that town, with the chiefs of the
I^ower Cherokees, to confult preliminaries intro-
ductory to a general congrefs and treaty with thefe
Indians, which was to be convened next June, and
held in the Overhill towns.

I obferved in the environs of Keowe, on the bafes
of the rocky hilis, immediately afcending from the
low grounds near the river bank, a great number of
very fmgular antiquities, the work of the ancients ;
they feem to me to have been altars for facrifice or
fepulchres : they were conllru6led of four flat Itones,
two fet on an edge for the fides, one clofed one end,
and a very large flat one lay horizontally at top, fo
that the other end was open ; this fabric was four or
five feet in length, two feet high, and three in
width. I inquired of the trader what they were,
who could not tell me certainly, but fuppofed them
to be ancient Indian ovens ; the Indians can give no
account of them : they are on the furface of the
ground, and are of ditferent dimenfions.

I accompanied the traders to Sinica, where we
found the' commiiTury and the Indian chiefs con-
vened In counfel : continued at Sinica fometin;e,
employing myfclf in obfervations, and making col-
lections of every thing worthy of notice : and, find-
ing the Indians to be yet unfettled in their determi-
nation, and not in a good humour, I abandoned
iLe projeft of vifiting the regions beyond the Che-
rokee mountains for this feafon : fet off for my re-
turn to Foit James> Dartmouth, lodged this night

in

NORTH AMIiRlt'^.

3!?i

in the forefts near the banks of a dciightfui large
creek, a branch of Keowe river, and next day ar-
rived fafe at Dartmouth.

Lift of the tovins and villages in the Cherokee na-
tion inhabited at this day, viz.

No.

1 Echoe

2 Nucafle

3 Whatoga

4 Co we

5 Ticoloofa

6 Jore

7 Conifca

8 Nowe

9 Timothle

10 Noewe

1 1 Tellico
iz Clennufc

13 Ocunnolufte

14 Chewe

15 Quanufc

16 Tellowe

17 Tellico

18 Chatuga

19 Hiwafle

20 Chewafe

21 Nuanha

22 Tallafe

23 Chelowe

24 Sette

25 Chote great

26 Joco

27 Tahaffe

On the Tanafs Eafl: of
the Jore niountahis.
4 towns.

f Inland on the branches
> of the Tanafe.
\ 4 towns.

On the Tanafe over the
}>Jore mountains.
8 towns.

J

1 Inland towns on the
I branches of the Tanafe
^and other waters over
1 the Jore mountains,
j 5 towns.

B

Overhill towns on
Tanafe or Cherokee

.^river.

' 6 towns.

J

b 2

the

28 Taraahle

3/^ TRAVELS IN

28 Tamahlc ^ Overhlll towns on the

29 Tufkege j Tanafe or Cherokee

30 Big Ifland [>river.

31 Nilaque | 5 towns.

32 Niowe J

Lower towns Eafl of the mountains, viz.

No. I Sinica ") /-» .u n

2 Keowe / On the Savanna or

3 Kulfage 5 Keowe river.

5 Eftolowe I ^^ '^"Si^° '^^^''

• ;S^'^ J On Flint river.

Towns on the waters of other rivers.
Eftotowe great, Allagae. Jore. Nae oche»
In all forty-three towns.

CHAP.

J

KORTH AMEPaCA. 373

CHAP. V.

13EI^G returned from the Cherokee country to
Dartmouth, I underllood that the company of ad-
venturers for Weft Floiida were very forward in
their preparations, and would be ready to fet off in
a few weeks, fo that I had but a Httle time allowed
nie to make provifion and equip myfelf for the profe-
cution of fo long and hazardous a journey.

Our place of rendezvous was at fort Charlotte,
on the oppofite fide of the river Savanna, and
about a mile from fort James. I had a defire to
make little botanical excurfions towards the head of
Broad river, in order to coile(!n: fomc curiofities
which I had obferved thereabouts j which being ac-
compliflied.

June 2:d fet out from fort Charlotte in company
with Mr. Whitfield, who was chief of our caravan.
We travelled about twenty miles, and lodged at the
farm of Monf. St. Pierre, a PVench gentleman, who
received and entertained us with great politenefs and
hofpitality. The manfion-houfe is fituated on the
top of a very high liill near the banks of the river
Savanna, overlooking his very extenfive and well
cultivated plantations of Indian Corn (Zea) Rice,
Wheat, Oats, Indigo, Convolvulus Batata, kc,
thefc are rich lev/ lands, lying very level betwixt
thefe natural heighls and the river ; his gardens oc-
cupy the gcritlc defcent on one fide of the mount,
and a very thriving vineyard confiding of abputfive
acres is on the other fide.

Next

374 TRAVELS IM

Next morning after breakfaft we fet off again,
continuing nine or ten miles farther down the river,
when \:'e flopped at a plantation, the property of
one of our companions, where we were joined by
the reft of the company. Afier dining here we pre-
pared to depart ; and the gentleman of the houfe
taking an affectionate leave of his wife and chil-
dren, we fat off again, and proceeding fix miles
farther down the river, we eroded over into Georgia,
taking a road which led us into the great trading
path from Augufla to the Creek nation. As the
ibil, fituation and prcdudions of thefe parts, for
feveral day's journey, differ very little from the
Northern diftricls of Georgia, already recited, when
on the furvey of the New Purchafe, I apprehend it
needlefs to enter again into a detail of particulars,
fmce it would produce but little more than a recapi-
tulation of that journey.

Early in the evening of the 27th we arrived at
the Flat-rock, where we lodged. This is a com-
mon rendezvous or camping place for traders and
Indians. It is an expanfive clean Hat or horizontal
rock, but a little above the furface of ihe ground,
jmd near the banks of a delightful rivulet of excel-
lent water, which is one of the head branches of Great
Ogeche : in the loofe rich foil verging round this
rock, grew feveral very curious herbaceous plants,
particularly one of fmgular elegance and beauty,
■which I take to be a fpecies of Ipomea (Ipomea,
caule ere£co, ramofo, tripedali, fob radicahbus, pin-
natifidis, hnearibus, humi-ftratis, fiorib. incarnatis
intus maculis coccineis adfperfo.) It grows erecl,
three feet high, with a ftrong ftem, which is deco-
rated with plumed or pinnalifid linear leaves,
Ipmewhat reiembling thofe of the Delphinium or

Ipomea

NORTH AMERICA. 375

Ipomea quamoclit ; from about one half Its length
upwards, it fends out on all fides, afcendant branches
which divide again and again ; thefe terminate with
large cubuiar or funnel-formed flowers ; their limbs
equally divided into live fegments ; thefe beautiful
flowers are of a perfed rofe colour, elegantly be-
fprinkled on the infide of their petals wit!i crimfon
fpecks ; the flowers are in great abundance, and
together with the branches and delicately fme cut
leaves, compofe a conical fpike or compound pan-
nicle. I faw a fpecies of this plant, if not the very
fame, growing on the fea coaft iilands near St. Au-
guiline. The blue flov^^ered Malva and Delphinium
were its aflTociates about the Flat-rock.

There are extenfive cane breaks or cs.ne meadows
fpread abroad round about, which aiford the molb
acceptable and nourifliing food for cattle.

This evening two companies of Indian traders
from Augufta arrived and encamped near iis ; and
as they were bound to the Nation, we concluded to
imite in company with ihem, they generoufly off'er-
ing us their afliflance, having many fparc horfes and
others lightly loaded, feveral of ours by this time
being jaded : this was a favourable opportunity of
relief in cafe of neccfllty.

Next morning as foon as the horfes were packed
and in readinefs, we decampexl and let forward to-
gether.

I thought It worLhy of taking notice of a fmojular
method the traders make ufe of to reduce the wild
young horfes to their hard duty. When any one
pcrfills in refufmg to receive his load, if threats, the
difciprnie of the whip and other common abufe

prove

2)'^6 TRAVELS IN

prove infufficient, after being haltered, u pack-
horfe-man catehes the tip end of one of his ears be-
twixt his teeth and pinches it, when inftantly the
furious flrong creature, trembhng, (tands perfectly
ftill until he is loaded.

Our caravan confifting of about twenty men and
fixty hcrfes, we made a formidable appearance,
having now little to apprehend from predatory bands
or out-laws.

This day's journey was for the mod part over
high gravelly ridges, and on the moll elevated hills,
appeared emerging out of the earth, rocky cliffs of
a dark reddiih brown colour ; their compofition
feemed to be a coarfe, fandy, ferruginous concrete,
but fo firmly cemented as to conflitute a perfect hard
fione or rock, and appeared to be excavated or worn
into cavities and furrows by the violence of the daOi-
ing billows and rapid currents of the ocean, which
heretofore probably wafhed them ; there were how-
ever flrata or veins in thefe rocks, of a finer com-
pofition and compaft confiftence, and feemed pon-
derous rich iron ore. A Httle depth below the
fandy gravelly furface, lies a ftratuia of very com-
pact reddifli yellow clay and fragments of ochre.
The trees and flirubs common on thefe gravelly
ridges are as follows, Diofpyros, Qiiercus rubra,
(^ nigra, Q^ tin.Sloria or great Black Oak, O^ alba,
(^ lobata, pod White Oak, CX incana, fohis ova-
libus integerrimis fubtus incanis, Pinus lutea, Pinus
tasda, foliis geminatis et trinis, (Irobilo ovato bre-
vi, cortice rimofo, Pinus paluftris; foliis trinis lon-
giflimis, ftrobilo elongata, Cornus Florida, Andro-
meda arborea, NylTa fylvatica, Juglans hiccory,
Prunuspadus, ^c, Ofherbacens, SoHdago, Eupa-

toriuni.

NORTH AMERICA. 377

torlum, Sylphium, Ruclbeckia, Gcrardia, Afclepl-
as. Agave Vir^inica, Eryngiunij'Thapfia, Euphorbia,
Polymnia, kc.

In the courfe of this day's journey we croiTed
two confiderable rivulets, running fwiftly over rocky
beds. There is fome very good land on the gra-
dual defcents of the ridges and their bottoms bor-
dering on creeks, and very extenfive grafly favan-
nas and cane meadows ahvavs in view on one hand
or the other. z'\t evening we came to camp on the
banks of a beautiful creek, a branch of Great Oge-
che, called Rocky Comfort, where we found ex-
cellent accommodations, here being pleafant grafly
open plains to fpread our beds upon, environed
vvitli extenfive cane meadows, affording the bell of
food for our quadrupeds.

The next day's journey led us over a level dif-
trift ; the land generally very fertile and of a good
quality for agriculture, the vegetable furface being
ol: a dark, loofe, rich mould, on a flratum of ftilf
reddlfli brown clay. Crofiing feveral confiderable
creeks, branches of the Ocone, North branch of the
Alatamaha, at evening, July iff, encamped on the
banks of the Ocone, in a delightful grove of foreft
trees, confiding of Oak, Afii, Mulberry, Hiccory,
Black Walnur, Elm, Saffafras, Gleditfia, &c. This
fiourifhing grove was an appendage of the high fo-
lefls we had pafied through, and projected into an
extenfive, green, open, level plain, confifting of
old Indian fields and plantations, being the rich low
lands of the river, and ftretching along its banks
upv,'ards to a very great diftance, charmingly di-
verfified and decorated with detached groves and
clumps of various trees and fin-ubs, and indented
on its verge by advancing and retreating promon-
tories of the high land.

Our

3-78 TRAVELS IN

Our encampment was fixed on the fite of the old
Ocone town, which, about fixty years ago, was
evacuated by the Indians, who, finding their fitua-
tion uifagreeable from its vicinity to the white peo-
ple, left it, moving upwards into the Nation or
Upper Creeks, and there built a town ; but that
fjtuation not fuiting their roving difpofition, they
grew^ fickly and tired of it, and refolved to feek an
habitation more agreeable to their minds. They all
arof^j, direding their migration South-EaPavard to-
wards the fea-coalt; and in the courfe of their jour-
ney, obferving the delightful appearance of the ex-
tenlive plnins of Alachua and the fertile hills envi-
roning it, they fat dov/n and built a town on the
banks cf a fpacious and beautiful lake, at a fmall
diflance from the plains, naming this new town,
Cufcowilla : this fituaiion pleafed them, the vafl
dcfarts, foreds, lake, and favannas around, afford-
ing unbounded range of the bcfl: hunting ground
for bear and deer, their favourite game. But al-
though this fituation was healthy and delightful to
the utmoft degree, aftbrding them variety and
plenty of every defirable thing in their ediraation,
yet troubles and afflictions found them out. This
territory, to the promontory of Florida, was then
claimed by the Tomocas, Utinas, Caloofas, Ya-
mafes and other remnant tribes of the ancient FIo-
ridans and the more Northern refugees, driven
away by the Carolinians, now in alliance and under
the protedion of the Spaniards, who aififting them,
attacked the new fettlement and for many years
were very troublefome ; but the Alachuas or Ocones
being ftrengthened by other emigrants and fugi-
tive bands from the Upper Creeks, with v/hom they
were confederated, and who gradually eftabliihed
other towns in this low country, ftretching a line of
fettlements acrofs the ilthmus, extending from the

Alatamaha

KORTH AMERICA. 37Q

Alatamsha to the bay of Apalache ; thcfe uniting
were at lencrth able to face their enemies and even
attack them in their own fettlements ; and in the
end, with the afTiflance of the Upper Creeks, their
uncles, vanquifhed their enemies and dcllroyed
them, and then fell upon the Spanifli feitlements,
"which alfo they entirely broke up. But having
treated of thefe matters in the journal of my travels
into Eaft Florida, I end this digreffion and proceed
again on my journey.

After crofling the Ocone by fording it, which
is about two hundred and fifty yards over, w'e tra-
velled about twenty miles, and came to camp in the
evening ; paiTed over a pleafant territory, prefent-
ing varying fcenes of gentle fwelling hills and levels,
aflbrding fublime forells, contrafted by expan-
five illumined green fields, native meadows and
Cane brakes ; the vegetables, trees, finubs and
plants the fame as already noticed without any ma-
terial variation. The next day's journey was about
twenty miles, having croiTcd the Oakmulge by
fording it three or four hundred yards over. Ihis
river is the main branch of the beautiful Alatamaha :
on the Ealt bank of the river lie the famous Oak-
mulge fields, where are yet confpicuous verv
wonderful remains of the power and grandeur of
the ancients of this part- of .America, in the ruins
of a capital town and fettlement, as vaft avtiiicial
hills, terraces, S:c. already particularly mentioned
in my tour through the lower diilrids of Georgia.
The Oakmulge here is about forty miles diltance
fiomthe Occne, the other arm of the Alatamaha.
In the evening we came to camp near the banks of
Stony Creek, a large rapid water about fix miles
bcvond tlie river.

Next

380 TRAVELS IN

Next day we tvavelled about twenty miles far-
ther, crolTing two confiderable creeks named Great
and Little Tobofochte ; and at evening encamped
clofe by a beautiful large brook called Sweet Water,
the glitteiint; waving flood pafiing along a£lively
over a bed of pebbles and gravel. The territory
through which we palTed from the banks of the
Oakmulge to this place, exhibited a delightful di-
ycrfified rural fcene, and promifes a happy, fruitful
rmd falubrious region, when cultivated by induftri-
ous inhabitants ; generally ridges of low fwelling
hills and plains fupporting grand forefts, vaft Cane
meadows, favannas and verdant lawns.

I obfei-ved here a very firigular and beautiful
flirub, which I fuppofc is a fpecies of Hydrangia
(H. quercifolia). It grows in coppices or clumps near
or on the banks of rivers and creeks ; many ftems
ufually arife from a root, fpreading itfelf grentiy on
all fides by fuckers or ofl'sets ; the ftems grow five
or fix feet high, declining or diverghig from each
other, and are covered w ith fcveral barks or rinds,
the laft of which being of a cinereous dirt colour
and very thin, at a certain age of the ftems or Ihoots,
cracks ^through to the next bark, and is peeled off
by the winds, difcovering the under, fmooth, dark
reddifli brown bark, which alfo cratks and peels off
the next year, in like manner as the former ; thus
every year forming a new bark ; the ftems divide
re-^ularly or oppofitely, though the branches are
crooked or wreathe about horizontally, and thefe
again divide, forming others which terminate with
lar<;e heavy panicles or thyrfi of flowers; but
thefe flowers are of two kinds : the numerous par-
tial fpikes which compofe the panicles and conftft
of a multitude of very fmall fruitful flowers,_ ter-
minate

NORTIJ AMERICA, 3^4

min^ite with one or more very large exparifive neu-
tral or iT'Ock flowers, llanding on a long, ilender,
ftiff peduncle : thefe flowers are compofed of lour
broad oval petils or fegments, of a dark rofe or
crimfon colour a;; firfi:, but as they become cider
acquire a deeper r^'d or purplifii hue, and Li ft ly are
of a brown or f;2rrMginous colour ; thefe have no
perfect p::rts of generation of either fex, but difco-
ver in their crurrc two, three or four papillx or
rudiments ; thc!e neutral flowers, with the whole
pannicle, are truly permanent, remaining on the
plant for years, uptil they dry and decay : the leaves
which clothe Lhe plants are very large, plnnatifid
or palmated, and fcrrated or toothed, very much
refembling the leasees of fome of our Oaks ; they
fit oppofite, fupported by flender petioles, and are
of a fine, full green colour.

Next day after noon we croffed Flint river by
fording it, about two hundred and fifty yards over,
and at evening came to camp near the banks of
a large and deep creek, a branch of the Flint.
The high land excellent, allording grand foreflis,
and the low ground vail timber and Canes of great
height and thicknefs, Arundo gigantca. I obferved
growing on the fleep dry banks of this creek, a
fpecies of flirub Hypericum, of extraordinary fhow
and beauty (Hypericum aureum). It grows eredc,
three or four feet high, forming a globular top
reprefcnting a perfect httle tree ; the leaves are
large, oblong, firm of texture, fmooth and fliining ;
the flowers are very large, their petals bread and
confpicuous, which, with their tufts of golden fila-
ments, give the little buflies a very fplendid ap-
pearance.

The adjacent low grounds and Cane fwamp af-
forded

3^3 TRAVELS ^H

forded excellent food and range for our horfes, whoy
by this time, through fatigue of conftant travelling,
heat of the climate and feafon, were tired and dif-
pirited : we came to camp fooner than ufual, and
itarted later next day, that they might have time
to reil: and recruit themfelves. The territory lying
upon this creek, and the fpace between it and the
river, prefent every appearance of a delightful and
fruitful region in fome future day, it being a rich
foil, and exceedingly well fituated for every branch
of agriculture and grazing, diverfified with hills
and dales, favannas and vaft Cane meadows, and
watered by innumerable rivulets and brooks, all
contiguous to the Flint river : an arm of the great
Chata Uche or Apalachucla offers an uninterrupted
navigation to the bay of Mexico and the Atlantic
ocean, and thence to the Weft: India iflands and
over the whole world.

Our horfes being hunted up and packed, fat foT-
v/ard again, proceeding moderately, afcending a
higher country and more uneven by means of ridges
of gentle hills ; the country however very pleafmg,
being diverfified with expanfive groves, favanna;
and Cane meadows, abounding with creeks and
brooks gliding through the plains or roving about
the hills, their banks bordered with forelts and
groves, confiding of varieties of trees, fhrubs and
plants ; the fummits of the hills frequently prefent-
ing to view piles and cliffs of the ferruginous rocks,
the fame fpecies as obferved on the ridges between
the Flat-rock and Rocky Comfort.

Next day we travelled but a few miles ; the
heat and the burning flies tormenting our horfes
to fuch a degree, as to excite compalTion even in
th.e hearts of pack-horfemen. Thefe bidng flies are

of

\

KORT^i AMERICA. ^^^^

of* feveral fpccles, and their numbers incredible.
We travelled alinofi: from fun-rife to his fetting,
amidfl a flying hoft of thefe perfecuting fpirits, who
formed a vaft cloud around our caravan fo thick as
to obfcure every dillant objec't ; but our van al'.vays
bore the brunt of the conflict; ; the head, neck, and
IhoLiIders of the leading horfes were continually in
a gore of blood : fome of thefc llies were near as
large as humble bees ; this is the hippobofca. They
are armed with a flrong fliarp bc-r.k or probofcit;,
fliaped like a lancet, and (heathed in flexible thin
valves ; with this beak they in dandy pierce the
veins of the creatures, making a large orifice from
whence the blood fprings in large drops, rolling
down as tears, caufing a fierce pain or aching for a
confiderable time after the wound is made. There
are three or four fpecies of this genus of lefs fize
but equally vexatious, as they are vaflly more nu-
merous, adive and fanguineous ; particularly, one
about half the fize of the firft mentioned, the next
lefs, of a dufl^y colour with a green head ; another
yet fomewhat lefs, of a fplendid green and the head
of a geld colour ; the fting of this is intolerable,
no Ids acute than a prick from a red-hot needle, or
a fpark of fire on the (kin ; thefe are called the
burning flies. Befules the preceding tormentors,
there are three or four fpecies c f the afilus or fmaller
biting flics ; one of a grayifti dufl;;y colour ; ano-
ther much of the fame colour, having fpotted wings
and a green head ; and another very fniall and
perfedly black : this lafl: fpecies lies in ambufli in
Ihrubby thickets and Cane brakes near water :
whenever we approach the cool fliades near creeks,
impatient for repoie and relief, almoft fmking un-
der the peifecutions from the evil fpirits, who con-
, tin u ally

3^4 Travels m

tinually furround and follow us over the burning
defart ridges and plains, and here are in fome hopes ,
of momentary peace and quietnefs, under cover
of the cool humid groves, we are furprized and
quickly invefted with dark clouds of thefe perfe-
cting demons, befides mufquitoes and gnats (cu-
lex et cynips).

The next day being in like manner opprefTed and
har raffed by the flinging flies and heats : we halted
at noon, being unable longer to fupport ourfelves
under fuch grievances, even in our prefent fituation
•charming to the fenfes ; on the acclivity of a high
fwelling ridge planted with open airy groves of the
fuperb terebinthine Pines, glittering rills playing
beneath, and pellucid brooiis meandering through
an expanfive green favanna, their banks orna-
mented with coppices of blooming aromatic fhrubs
and plants perfuming the air. The meridian heats
jufl allayed, the fun is veiled in a dark cloud, rifmg
North-Weihvard j the air flill, gloomv and fultry ;
the animal fpirits fmk under the conflift, and we
fall into a kind of mortal torpor rather than re-
frefliing repofe ; and flartled or terrified at each
others plaintive murm.urs and groans. Now the
earth trembles under the peals of inceffant diftant
thunder, the hurricane comes on roarings and I.
am fhocked again to life : I raife my head and rub
open ray eyes, pained with gleams and flaflics of
lightning ; when jufl attempting to wake my af-
fiidled brethren and companions, almofl over-
whelmed with floods of rain, the dark cloud opens
over my head, developing a vaft river of the ethe-
rial fire ; I am inftantly ftruck dumb, inactive and
benumbed ; at length the pulfe of life begins to
vibrate, the animal fpirits begin to exert their
powers, and I am by degrees revived.

In

NORTH AMERICA.' 385

In the evening this furprifingly heavy temped
paiTed off, we had a ferene fky and a pleafant cool
night ; having had time enough to collect a great
quantity of wood and Pine knots to feed our fires
and keep up a light in our camp, which was a lucky
precaution, as we found it abfolutely necelTary to
dry our clothes and warm ourfelves, for all ouv
fkins and bedding were cad over the packs of mer-
chandize to prevent them and our provifion from
being injured by the deluge of rain. Next day was
cool and pleafant, the air having recovered its elaf-
ticity and vivific fpirit ; I found myfclf cheerful
and invigorated ; indeed all around us appeared re-
animated, and nature prefented her cheerful coun-
tenance ; the vegetables fmilcd in their blooming
decorations and fparkling cryftaUine dew-drop?.
The birds fung merrily in the groves, and the alert
roe-buck whidled and bounded over the ample meads
and green turfy hills. After leaving our encamp-
ment, we travelled over a delightful territory, pre-
fenting to view variable fylvan fcenes, confiding of
chains of low hills affording high forefts, with ex-
panfive favannas. Cane meadows, and lawns between,
watered with rivulets and irlittcrin": brooks. To-
wards evening wecameto camp on thebanks of Pintch-
iucco, a large branch of the Chata Uche river.

The next day's journey was over an uneven hilly
country, but the foil generally fertile and of a qua-
lity and liluation favourable to agriculture and graz-
ing, the fummits of the ridges rough with ferrugi-
nous rocks, in high cliffs and fragments, fcattereil
over the fur face of the crround : obferved alfo hioh
clilfs of diff reddilh brown clay, with veins or drata
of ferruginous dones, either in detached malfes or
conglomerated nodules or hematites with veins or
mall'es of ochre.

C c Nc:it

*j£j€.

3i8^ JRAVELS IK

Next day, after traverfing a very dellgluful ter-
ritory, exhibitijig a charming rural fcenery of pri-
mitive nature, gently defcending and paifing alter-
nately eafy declivities or niagnificem terraces fup-
porting iublime forells, almoll endlefs graffy fields,
detached groves and green lav.'ns for the diftance of
nine or ten miles, we arrived at the banks of the
Chata Uche river oppofite the Uche town ; where,
after unloading our horfes, the Indians came over
to us in large canoes, by means of which, with the
cheerful and liberal allrftance of the Indians, fer-
ried over the merchandize, and afterwards driving
our hories altogether into the river fwam them over :
the river here is about three or four hundred yards
wide, carries fifteen or twenty feet water, and flows
down with an aftive current; the water is clear >
cool and falubrious.

The Uche tov/n is fituated in a vaft plain, on
(he gradual afcent as we rife from a narrow (trip
of low ground immediately bordering on the river j
it is the largeft, mofh compact and bed fituated
Indian town I ever faw ; the habitations are large
imd neatly built ; the walls of the houfes are con-
llrudled of a wooden frame, then lathed and plaif-
t;:red infide and out with a reddifli well tempered
clay or mortar, which gives them the appearance
of red brick walls ; and thefc; houfes are neatly co-
vered or roofed with Cyprefs bark or fliingles of
that tree. The town appeared to be populous and
thriving, full of youth and young children : I fup-
pofe the number of inhabitants, men, women and
children, might amount to one thoufand or fifteen
hundred, as it is faid they are able to mufter five
hundred gun-men or warriors. Their own national
language is altogether or radically different from

the

NORTH AMERICA. 387

"the Creek or Mufcogulge tongue, and is called the
Savanna or Savanuca tongue ; I was told by the
traders it was the fame with, or a dialed of, the
Shawanefe. They are in confederacy with the
Creeks, but do not mix with them ; and, on account
of their numbers and flrength, are of importance
enough to excite and draw upon them the jealoufy
of the whole Mufcogulge confederacy, and are ufu-
ally at variance, yet are wife enough to unite againft
a common enemy, to fupport the intereit and glory
of the general Creek confederacy.

After a little refrefliment at this beautiful town,
we repacked and fet olF again for the ApalachucU
town, where we arrived after riding over a level
plain, confiding of ancient Indian plantations, a
beautiful landfcape diverfified with groves and
lawns.

This is cfteemed the mother town or Capital of
the Cieek or Mufcogulge confederacy : facred to
peace ; no captives are put to death or human
blood fpilt here. And when a general peace is pro-
pcfed, deputies from all the towns in the confede-
racy alTemble at this capital, in order to deliberate
upon a fubjeft of fo high importance for the profpe-
rity of the commonwealth.

And on the contrary the great Cowetta town,
about twelve miles higher up this river, is called tlie
bloody town, where the Micos, chiefs, and warriors
afl'emble when a general war is propofed ; and here
captives and flate malefaftors are put to death.

The time of my continuance here, which was
about a week, was employed in excurfions round
about this fettlement. One day the chief trader
of Apalachucla obliged me with his company on a

C c 2 walk

3^^ TRAVELS IN

walk of about a mile and an halidown the river, to
view the ruins and fite of the ancient Apalachucla :
it had been fituated on a peniniula formed by a
doubling of the river, and indeed appears to have
been a very famous capital by the artificial mounds
or terraces, and a very populous fettlement, from
its extent and expanfive old fields, ftretching be-
yond the fcope of the fight along the low grounds
of the river. We viewed the mounds or terraces,
on which formerly flood their tov,'n houfe or ro-
tunda and fquare or areopagus, and a little behind
thefe, on a \^ve\ height or natural ftep, above the
lov/ grounds, is a vail artificial terrace or four fquare
mound, now feven or eight feet higher than the
common furface- of the ground ; in front of one
fquare or fide of this mound adjoins a very exten-
five oblong fquare yard or artificial level plain, funk
a little belovv' the common furiace, and lurrounded
with a bank or narrow terrace, formed with the
earth thrown out of this yard at the time of its for-
mation: the Creeks or prefent inhabitants have a
tradition that this was the work of the ancients,
many ages prior to their arrival and poffeirmg this
country.

This old town was evacuated about twenty years
ago by the general confent of the inhabitants, on
account of its unhealthy fituation, owing to the fre-
quent inundations of the river over the low grounds ;
and moreover they grew timorous and dejected,
apprehending themfelves to be haunted and poi-
felTed with vengeful fpirits, on account of human
blood that had been undefervedly* fpilt in this old

town,

♦ About ilfty cr fixty years ago almoil all the -Vi'hite traders then in the
n.uion v/crc inair;icTcd in this town, whivhcr they had repaired from tiic
difiVrent towns, in hopes of an afyium or refuge, in confcquencc of the
klaiH-i, having bvtn ti:n<ly apprifud of the hcftik jntcntious of the Indians

by

NORTH AMERICA. -^89

tov.n, havin_{]j been repeatedly warned by apparitions
and dreams to leave it.

At the time of their leaving this old tovrn, like
jhe ruin or difperfion of the ancient Babel, the in-
habitants fcparatcd from each other, forming fe-
yeral bands under the conducl or aufjjices of the
chief of each family or tribe. The greateft number,
however, chofe to fit down and build the prcfent
new Apalachucla town, upon a high bank cf the
river above the inundations. The other bands
purfued difl'crcnt routs, as their inclinations led
ihcm, fettling villages lower down the rivtr ; feme
continued their migration towards the fca coail:,
feeking their kindred and countrymen amongit the
Lower Creeks in Kaft I'lorida, where they fettled
thcmfelvcs. My intelligent friend, the trader cf
Apalachucla, having from a long refidence ainongil
thele Indians acquired an extenfive knowledge ol
their cuftoms and aiiairs, I inquired of him what
were his fentimenrs with refpei5t to their wander-
ing, unfettled difpofition ; their fo frequently break-
ing up their old to\yns and fettling new ones, &c.
His anlwers and opinions were the ncccfiity they
were under of having frcili or new flrong land for
their plantations, and nev^, convenient and exten-
five range or hunting ground, which unavoidably
forces thcniv into contentions and wars with their
confederates and neighbouring tribes ; to avoid
which they had rather move and fcek a plentiful
and peaceable retreat, even at a difiancp, than con-
tend with friends and relatives or embroil themfelves

by their tcmpora?-)' wives. They all rjict togcthtt: iii c.ie I-.oufc, under the
avowrd protcdion of the chiefs of the town, v.-aiting the event ; but whilft
tlie diicfs were aiT^mbled in council, deliberating on ways and mea s to
proteiil them, the Jmlians in niiiltitudes furroundcd the houfc and fet fire
to it : they all, to the ne.nibcr of eiohteen or twenty, perilhed with the
houfc in the flumes. TIic trader fhcwed me the ruins of the houfc where
(hey were burn t.

in

39* TRAVELS IN

in deflrudlve wars with their neighbours, when
either can be avoided with fo Httle inconvenience.
With regard to the Mufcogulges, the firrt object in
order to obtain thefe convenlencies was. the de-
flruclion of the Yamafes, who held the pofleflion of
Florida, and were in clofe alliance with the Spani-
ards, their declared and moft inveterate enemy,
which they at length fully accompli fhed ; and by
this conquefl they gained a vafl and invaluable ter-
ritory, comprehending a delightful region, and moft
plentiful country for their favourite game, bear and
deer. But not yet fatisfied, having already fo far
conquered the powerful Cherokees, as, in a man-
ner, to force them to alliance, and compelled the
warlike Chicafaws to fue for peace and alliance with
them ; they then grew arrogant and Infatiable, and
turned their covetous looks towards the potent and
intrepid Cha£laws, the only Indian enemy they had
to fear, meaning to break them up and poiTefs them-
felves of that extenfive, fruitful and deUghtful coun-
try, and make it a part of their vaft empire. But
the Chaclaws, a powerful, hardy, fubtile and intre-
pid race, eflimated at twenty thoufand warriors, are
likely to afford fufficient exercife for the proud and
reftlefs fpirits of the Mufcogulges, at lealt for fome
years to come ; and they appear to be fo equally
matched with the Chaclaws, that it feems doubtful
which of thefe powerful nations will rife victorious.
I'he Creeks have fworn, it feems, that they never
will make peace with this enemy as long as the
rivers flow or the fun purfues his courfe through
the fides.

Thus we fee that war or the exercife of arms
originates from the fame motives, and operates in
the fpirits of the wild red men of America, as it

formerly

NORTH AMERICA. 39 X

formerly did with the renowned Greeks and Ro-
mans, or modern civilized nations, and not from a
ferocious, capricious defire of fnedding human blood
as carnivorous favages : neither docs the eager
avarice of pUmder (limulatc them to a6ls of mad-
nefs and cruelty, that being a trifling objed in theit
eftimation, a dufficld blanket, a polilhcd rifle gun,
or embroidered mantle ; no, their martial prowefs
and obje<I:1:s of defire and ambition proceed froPA
greater principles and more magnanimous intentions,
even that of reuniting all nations and languacres un-
der one univerfal confederacy or common weakh-

The vegetable productions in the rich low
ground, near the banks of this great river, of trees
and flirubs, are as follow ; Platanus occideutiilis,
I.iriodcndron tulipifera, Populus hererophylla, Lau-
Tus fafl'afras, Laurus Barbonia, Laurus benzoin, Be-
tula lenta, Salix fluviaHs, Magnolia grandiflora, An-
nona glabra, Ulmus campeftris, Ulmus fubcrifera,
Carpinus, Quercus, various fpeci-;;s, Juglans, vari-
ous fpecies, /Efculus pavia, i^fculus fylvatica, f.
Virginiana, Morus, Hopea tintloria, Fagus fylva-
tica, of furprifmg magnitude and comelinefs, &;c.
The land rifes from the river with fublime ma":ni-
ficence, gradually retreating by flights or fteps one
behind and above the other, in beautiful theatrical
order, each ftep or terrace holding up a level plain ;
and as we travel back from the river, the (Icps are
higher, and the concfjxmding levels aie more and
more expanfive : the afcents produce grand high
forcfts, and the plains prefeiit to view a delightful
varied landfcape, conhlHng of extenfive gralfy fields,
detached groves of high forefl trees, and clumps of
lower trees, evergreen fhrubs and herbage ; green
knolls, v.'ith ferpentine, wavy, glittering brooks

courfmg^

392 TRAVELS IN

courfinf; through the green plahis ; and dark pro-,
montories, or obtufe projeclions ot the fide-long
acclivities, alternately adv:ancing or receding on
the verge of the illumined native fields, to the ut-
mofl extent of fight. The fummits of the acclivi-
ties afford, befides the forefl: trees already recited,
Halefia, Ptelea, Circis, Cornus Florida and Amor-
pha. The upper mound or terrace holds up a dilated
level plain of excellent land, for the didance of five
or fix miles in width, which is a high foreft of the
rnajefiic trees already mentioned, as Qiiercus tinfto-
ria, Jugians nigra, Morus, Ulmus, Tilia, Gleditfia,
Juglans hiccory, &c. The land after this diftance,
though almoft flat and level, becomes leaner ; the
vegetative mould or fmface is fliallower, on a
ftratum of tenaceous humid clay, for the diftance
of fifteen or twenty miles, more or Icfs, according
to the diftance of the next great river ; prcfenting
to our viev/ a fine expanfe of level graffy plains,
detached forefts and groves of Q^uercus alba, Q^
lobata, (>. phillos, Q^ hemifpherica, CXaquatica,
with entire groves of the fplendid Nyffa fylvatica
and perfumed Liquidambar ftyraciflua, vaft Cane
meadows, and laftly a chain of grafly favannas.
Immediately from this v.e began to afcend gra-
dually the moft elevated, gravelly and ftony ridge,
confining of "parallel chains of broken fwelling
hills, the very higheft chain frequently prefenting
to view cliffs of the ferruginous rocks and red
clay already noticed. This laft mentioned high
ridge divides the waters of the great rivers from
each other, whence arife the fources of their nume-
rous lateral branches, gradually increafing as they
wind about the hills, fertilizing the vales and level
plains, by their inundations, as they pour forth
from the vaft humid forefts and fliaded prolific hills,

and

NORTH AMI-RICA. 393

and hiilly, flow down, with j\u cafy, meandering,
ileady courfc, into the rivers to which they are tri-
butary.

Our horfes by this time having recruited thcm-
fjlves, by ranging at h'ocriy and feeding in the rich
young cane fwamps, in the vicinity of Apalachucla,
we refumed our journey for Mobile, having here
repaired our equipage, and repleniflied ourfelves
with frefh fupphes of provifions. Our caravan was
cow reduced to its original number ; the companies
of traders who joined us at llie Fhit-rock, on our
arrival at this town feparated from us, betaking
tliemfelves to the feveral towns in the Nation,
where they were refpe6livcly bound. I fliall juft
mention a very curious non-defcript (hrub, which
1 cbferved grov.ing in the fliady forefts, beneath
the afcents, next bordering on the rich low lands
of the river.

This floloniferous flirub grows (ivc or fix feet
in height ; many Hems ufually afcend from one root
or the fame fource ; thefe feveral Hems diverge
from each other, or incline a little towards the earth,
covered with a fmooth whitiih bark, divided op-
pofitely, and the branches wreath and twill about,
being ornauiented with compound leaves ; there
being five lanceolate ferratcd leaves, ail'ociated upon
one general long flender petiole, which Hand op-
pofitcly, on the branches, which terminate with a
fpike, or panicle of white Ilowers, having an
agreeable fcent : from the chara-^lers of the flowers,
this flirub appears to be a fpecies of ylZfcuIusor
Tavia, but as 1 could find none of the f;-ultand but
a few flowers, quite out of feafon and imperfecl, I
;.ni not certain.

CHAP.

394 TRAVELS IN

CHAP. VI.

JULY 13th we left the Apalachucia town, and
three days journey brought us to Talafl'e, a town
on the Tallapoofe river, the North Eaft great
branch of the Alabama or Mobile river ; having
pafled over a vaft level plain country of expanfive
favannas, groves, Cane fwamps and open Pine fo-
refts, watered by innumerable rivulets and brooks,
tributary to Apalachucia and Mobile. We now
altered our courfe, turning to the left hand. South-
erly, and defcending near the river banks, continu-
ally in fight of the Indian plantations and commons
adjacent to their towns. Palled by Otafle, an an-
cient famous Mufcogulge town. The next fettle-
ment we came to was Coolome, where we ftaye4
two days, and having letters for Mr. Germany, the
principal trader of Coolome, I meant to confult
with him in matters relative to my aifairs and future
proceedings.

Here are very extenfive old fields, the abandoned
plantations and commons of the old town, on the
Eaft fide of the river ; but the fettlement is remov-
ed, and the new town now ftands on the oppofite
fliore, in a charming fruitful plain, under an ele-
vated ridge of hills, the fwelling beds or bafes of
which are covered with a pleafmg verdure of grafs ;
but the laft afcent is fteeper, and towards the fum-
mit difcovers Ihelving rocky cliffs, which appear to
be continually fplitting and burfting to pieces, fcat-
tering their thin exfoliations over the tops of the
grafly knolls beneath. The plain is narrow where

the

NORTH AMERICA. 395

the town is built : their houfcs are neat commodious
buildings, a wooden frame with plaiftered walls,
and roofed with Cyprefs bark or (liingles ; every
habitation confifts of four oblong fquare houfes, of
one ftory, of the fame form and dimenfions, and fo
fituatcd as to form an exact fquare, encompafling
an area or court yard of about a quarter of an
acre of ground, leaving an entrance into it at each
corner. Here is a beautiful new fquare or areopa-
gus, in the centre of the new town ; but the llores
of the principal trader, and two or three Indian ha-
bitations, ftand near the banks of the oppofite
fhore on the fite of the old Coolome town. The
Tallapoofe river is here three hundred yards over,
and about fifteen or. twenty feet deep: the water
is very clear, agreeable to the tafte, elleemed falu-
t>rious, and runs with a fteady^ aftive current.

Being now recruited and refitted, having obtain-
ed a guide to fet us in the great trading path for
Weft Florida, early in the morning we iat off for
Mobile : our progrefs for about eighteen miles was
through a magnificent foreft, juil without or fkirt-
ing on the Indian plantations, frequently having a
view of their diftant towns, over plains or old fields ;
and at evening we came to camp under flielter of a
grove of venerable fpreading Oaks, on the verge
of the great plains : their enormous limbs loaded
with Tillandiia ufneadfcltes, waving in the winds :
thefe Oaks were fome (helter to us from the vio-
lence of an extraordinary fhovver of rain, which
fuddenly came down in fuch floods as to inundate
the earth, and kept us Handing on our feet the
whole night, for the furface of the ground was un-
der w-ater almoll till morning. Karly next morn-
ing, our guide having performed his duty, took

leave,

39^ TRAVELS IN

leave, returning home, and we continued on our
journey, entering on the great plains. We had not
proceeded far before our people roufed a litter of
young v.'olves, to which giving chace, we foon caught
mie of them, it being entangled in high grafs ; one
of our people caught it by the hind legs and ano-
ther beat out his brains v/ith the but of his gun, —
barbarous fport ! — This creature was about half
the fize of a fmall cur-dog, and quite black.

We continued over thefe expanfive illumined
gralTy plains, or native fields, above twenty miles
in length, and in width eight or nine, lying parallel
to the river, which was about ten miles diltance ;
they are inverted by high foreds, extenfive points
or promontories, which projecl into the plains on
each fide, dividing them into many vail fields open-
ing on either hand as we pafied along, whicii prc-
fents a magnificent and pleafing fylvan landfcape
of primitive, uncultivated nature. CroiTed feveral
very confiderable creeks, their ferpentine courfes
]^>eing directed acrofs the plain by gently fwelling
knolls perceptible at a diflance, but which feem to
van,ifli or difappear as we come upon them ; the
creeks were v/aters of the Alabama, the name of
the Eaft arm of the Mobile below the confluence of
the Tallapoofe. Thefe rivulets were ornamented by
groves of various trees and fiirubs, which do nor
fpread far from their banks. I obferved amongfh
them the wild Crab (Pyrus coronaria), and Prunus
Indica or wild Plumb, Cornus Florida, and on the
graffy turf adjoining grew abundance of Strawber-
ry vines : the furface of the plains or fields is clad
with tall grafs, intermixed with a variety of her-
bage. The mod confpicuous, both for beauty and
novelty, is a tall fpecies of Silplvium ; the radical

leaves

NORTH AMERICA. 397

leaves are large, long and lightly finuated, but thofe
which garnifli the Hem are few and lefs fmuated ;
thefe leaves, \vith the whole plant, except the flow-
ers, appear of a whitilh green colour, which is
owing to a fine loft fillvv down or pubefcence ; the
ilower Item, which is eight or ten feet in length
when Handing erecl, ternoinates upwards with a lon^
heavy fpike of large golden yellow radiated flowers ;
the Item is ufually ((^cii bov%ing on one fide or
other, occafioned by the weight of the flowers, and
many of them are broken, juft under the panicle or
fpike, by their own weight, after ilornis and heavy
rains, which often crack or fplit the Hem, from
v/hence exudes a gummy or refmous fubftance,
which the fun and air harden into femi-pelhicid
drops or tears of a pale amber colour. This refm
poiTelVes a very agreeable fragrance and bitterifli
tafte, fomewhat like frankincenfe or turpentine ;
it is chewed by the Indians and traders, to cleanfe
their teeth and mouth, and fweeten their breath.

The upper ftratum or vegetable mould of thefe
plains is perfectly black, foapy and rich, efpecially
after rains, and renders the road very flippcry :
it lies on a deep bed of white, tcflaceous, limellone
rocks, which in fome places refeinble chalk, and in
other places are (Irata or fubterrene banks of va-
rious kinds of fea fliells, as oftrea, ccc. : thefe dif-
folving near the furface of the earth, and mixing
with the fuperficial mould, render it extremely
produdive.

Immediately after leaving tlie plains we enter
the grand high foreils. There were (lately trees of
the Robinea pfcudacacia, Tilia, Morus, Ulmus,
Juglans exaltata, Juglans nigra, Pyrus coronaria,
Gon;u£ llorida. Q^rcis, 2:c. Our road r.ov/ for

feveral

398 TRAVELS IN

fcveral miles led us near the Alabama, within two
or three miles of its banks : the furface of the
land is broken into hills and vales, feme of them
of confiderable elevation, covered with forefts of
llately trees, fuch as already mentioned, but they
jire of a much larger growth than thofe of the
fame kind which grow in the Southern or inha-
bited parts of Georgia and Carolina. We now
left the river at a good dillance, the Alabama
bearing away Southerly, and entered a vaft open
forefl Vv'hich continued above feventy miles, Eaft
and Weft, without any confiderable variation, gene-
rally a level plain, except near the banks of creeks
that courfe through : the foil on the furface is a

o

dulky brownifli mould or fandy loam, on a founda-
tion of (liu clay ; and the furface, pebbles or gravel
mixed with clay on the fummits of the ridges : the
forefts confift chiefly of Oak, liiccory, Afh, Sour
Gum (Nyfla fylvatica), Sweet Gum (Liquidambar
flyraciilua), Beech, iVIalberry, Scarlet maple. Black
walnut. Dog wood, Cornus Florida, iElculus pa-
via, Prunus Indica, Ptelea, and an abundance of
Chcfnut (Fag. caftanea) on the hills, with Finns
taeda and Finns lutea. During our progrefs over this
vaft high foreft, we crofted extenfive open plains,
the foil gravelly, producing a few trees and fhrubs
or undergrov\ th, which were entangled with Grape
vines (Vitis campeftris) of a peculiar fpecies 5 the
bunches (racemes) of fruit were very large, as were
the grapes that compofed them, though yet green
and not fully grown, but when ripe they are of va-
rious colours, and their juice fweet and rich. The
Indians gather great quantities of them, which they
prepare for keeping, by firft fweating them on hur-
dles over a gentle fire, and afterwards drying them
on their bunches in the fun and air, and ftore them

up

NORTH AMERICA. 399

up for provlfion. Thefe Grape vines do not climb
into high trees, but creep along from one low
Ihrub to another, extending their branches to a
great diftance horizontally round about ; and it is
very pleafing to behold the clufters pendant from
the vines, almoft touching the earth j indeed fomc
of them He upon the ground.

We now entered a very remarkable grove of Dog
wood trees (Cornus Florida), which continued nine
or ten miles unalterable, except here and there a
towering MagnoUa grandiflora ; the land on which
they (land is an exad level ; the furface a fliallow,
loofe, black mould, on a ftratum of fliff, yellowifh
clay. Thefe trees were about twelve feet high,
fpreading horizontally ; their limbs meeting and
interlocking with each other, formed one vaft,
Ihady, cool grove, fo denfe and humid as to
exclude the fun-beams, and prevent the intrufion.
of almoft every other vegetable, affording us a
moft defirable fhelter from the fervid fun-beams
at noon-day. This admirable grove by way
of eminence has acquired the name of the Dog
woods.

During a progrefs of near feventy miles, through
this high foreft, there conftantly prefented to view
on one hand or the other, fpacious groves of this
fine flowering tree, which muft, in the fpring feafon,
when covered with bloflToms, prefent a mod pleafmg
fcene ; when at the fame time a variety of other
fweet flirubs difplay their beauty, adorned in their
gay apparel, as the Halefia, Stewartia, iEfculus pa-
via, JE(c. alba, Jpfc. Florid, ramis divaricatis, thyr-
fis grandis, flofculis expanfis incarnatis. Azalea, kc.
entangled with garlands of Bii;nonia crucigera,

^Big.

4CO TRAVELS IN

Big* ladicans, Big. fempervirens, Glycine frute-
fcens, Lonicera lenipervirens, ccc. and at the fame
time the fuperb Magnolia grandifiora, (landing in
front of the dark groves, towering far above the
common level.

The evening cool, v/e encamped on the banks
of a glittering rivulet amidft a fpicy grove of the
lUicium Vloridanum.

Early next morning we arofe, hunted up our
hoifes and proceeded on, continuing about twenty
miles, Qver a diflricl which prefented to view an-
other landfcape ; expanfive plains of Cane meado^vs,
and detached groves, contrafted by fwelling ridges,
and vales fupporting grand forefts of the trees al-
ready noted, erabellifhed with delightful creeks
and brooks, the low grounds producing very tall
canes, and the higher banks groves of the Illicium,
Calllcanthus, Stewartia, Halefia, Styrax and others,
particularly Magnolia auriculata. In the evening
we forded the river Schambe about fifty yard^>
over, the ftream active bit ff-iallow', which carries
its waters into the bay of Penfacola. Came to
camp, on the banks of a beautiful creek, by a charm-
ing grove of the Illicium Floridanum : fi-om this
we travelled over a level country above fifty miles,
very gently but perceptibly defcending South-Eali-
ward before us : this didritl exhibited a landfcape
very diifcrent from \\nd.t had prefented to vieW^
fmce we left the nation, and not much unlike the
low countries of Carolina ; it is in fad one vaft
fiat gralTy favanna and Cane meadows, intcrfecled
or varioufly fcrolled over vith narrow forefts and
groves, on the banks of creeks and rivulets, or
hommocks and fwamps at their iburces ; with long
leaved Pines, fcatteringly planted, amcngll: ths grafs ;

and

NORTH AMERICA. 401

and on the high fandy knolls and fwelllng ridges,
Quercus nigra, Quercus flammula, Quercus incana,
with various other trees and flirubs as already noted,
inhabiting fuch fituations. The rivulets however
exhibited a different appearance ; they are fhallower,
courfe more fwiftly over gravelly beds, and their
banks are adorned with Illicium groves. Magnolias,
Azaleas, Halefia, Andromedas, &:c. The highelt
hills near large creeks afford high forefls with abun-
dance of" Chefnut trees.

"We now approached the bay Mobile, gently af-
cending a hilly diflricl, being the higheft forelt ad-
joining the extenfive rich low lands ot the river :
thefe heights are fomewhat encumbered with peb-
bles, fragments and cliffs of rufty ferruginous rocks ;
the Hones were ponderous and indicated very rich
iron ore : here was a fmall diilricl of good land,
on the acclivities and bafes ot thefe ridges, and a
level forefl below, watered by a fuie creek, running
into the Mobile. From hence we proceeded, again,
defcending, and travelled about nine miles generally
over a level country confiding of favannas. Cane
fwamps, and gentle rifing knolls, producing Pinus
ta^da, Nyffa fylvatica, Ouercus rubra, Fagus cafta-
nea, Fraxinus, with other trees. Arrived at Ta-
cnfa, a pretty high bluff, on the Eallern channel
of the great iNIobile river, about thirty miles above
fort Condc, or city of Mobile, at the head of the
bay.

Next day early in the morning I embarked in a
boat, and proceeded for Mobile, along the banks of
iflands (near twenty miles) which lay in the middle
of the river, between the Eaflern and Weftern
fhores of the main : the banks of thefe low flat rich
iflands arc well cultivated, having on them extenfive

D d farms

4^2 tnAVELS IK

farms tind feme good habitations, chiefly the pro-
perty of French gentlemen, who refide in the city,
as being more pleafant and healthy. Leaving thele
iflands, we continued ten or twelve miles between
the Eaftern main and a chain of low grafly iflands,
too low and wet for cultivation ; then crolTed over
the head of the bay, and arrived in town in the
evening.

The city of Mobile is fituated on the eafy afcenJ:
of a rifing bank, extending near half a mile back on
the level plain above ; it has been near a mile in
length, though now chiefly in ruins, many houfes
vacant and mouldering to earth ; yet there are a few
good buildings inhabited by French gentlemen,.
Englifh, Scotch and Irifli, and emigrants from the
Northern Britini colonies. Meflrs. Swanfon and
M'Gillivray who have the management of the In-
dian trade carried on with the Chicafaws, Cha*:l:aws,
Upper and Lower Creeks, ^c. have made here
very extraordinary improvements in buildings.

The fort Conde, which (lands very near the bay,
towards the lower end of the town, is a large regu-
lar fortrefs of brick.

The principal French buildings are conilru(fled
of brick, and are of one (lory, but on an extenfive
fcale, four fquare, encompalllxig on three fides a
large area or court yard : the principal apartment
is on the fide fronting the dreet ; they feem in fomc
degree to have copied after the Creek habitation in
the general plan : thofe of the poorer clafs are con-
ftrucled of a ftrong frame of Cyprefs, filled in with
brick, plaiftered and white-wafiied infide and out.

July 3 1 ft, 1778, the air being very hot andfultry,
thermometer up at 87, we had excefiive thunder, and

repeated

i

North America. 405

repeated heavy (hewers of rairij from niormng until
evening.

Not having an immediate opportunity front
hence to Manchac, a Britilli fettlemcnt on the Mil-
fiffippi, I endeavoured to procure a light canoe, with
which I defigned to purfue my travels along jfhore
to the fettlements about Pearl river.

Augufl; 5th, fet off from Mobile up the river in
a trading boat, and was landed at Taenfa bluff, the
feat of Major Farmer, to make good my e!r?;ac;e.-
ments, in confequcnce of an invitation from that
worthy gentleman, to fpend fome days in his fa-
mily ; here I obtained the ufc of a light canoe, to
continue my voyage up the river. Tlie fettlement
of Taenfa is on the fite of an ancient town of a
tribe of Indians of that name, which is apparent
from many artificial mounds of earth and other
ruins. Befides Mr. Farmer's dwellings, there are
many others inhabited by French families ; who
are chiefly his tenants. It is a moft delightful fitua-
tion, commanding a fpacious profpecl up and down
ihe river, and the low lands of his extenfive planta-
tions on the oppofite fliore. In my e.xcurfions about
this place, I obferved niany curious vegetable pro-
dudions, particularly a fpecies of Myiica (Mvrica
inod(ira) : this very bcautiiul evergreen flipub, which
the French inhabitants call the Wax tree, grows in
wet fandy ground about the edges of fv»-amps ; it
rifes erect nine or ten feet, dividing itfelf into a
multitude of nearly ere6l branches, which are gar-
niflied with many Ihining deep green entire leaves
of a lanceolate figure ; the branches produce abun-
dance of large round berries, nearly the lize of bird
cherries, which are covered with a fcale or coat of
white wax ; no part cf this plant poffeffes any de-
1) d 2 gree

404 TRAVELS IN

gree of fragrance. It is in high eftimation with the
inhabitants for the production of wax for candles^
for which purpofe it anfwers equally well with
bees-v/ax, or preferably, as^ it is harder and more
lafting in burning.

Early on a fine morning I fet fail up the river,
took the Eaft channel, and pafTed along by well
cultivated plantations on the fotile iflands, in the
river on my left hand : thefe iflands exhibit every
Ihow of fertility ; the native produdliono exceed any
thing I had ever feen, particularly the Reeds or
Canes (Arundo gigantea) grow to a great height
and thicknefs.

Early one morning, paiTing along by fome old
uncultivated fields, a few miles above Taenfa, I
was flruck with furprize at the appearance of a
blooming plant, gilded with the richeft golden yel-
low : flopping on flrcre, I difcovcred it to be a new
fpecies of the Oenothera (Oenothera grandltiora,
caule erefto, ramofo, pilofo, 7, 8 pedalf, foliis
femi-tmplexi-caulibus, lanceolatis, ferratodentatis,
fioribus magnis, fulgidis, feflillbus, capfulls cylin-
drici^, 4 angulisj) perhaps the mofl pompous and
brilliant herbaceous plant yet known to exift. It
is an annual or biennial, rifing ere^l feven or eight
feet, branching on all fides from near the earth up-
wards, the lower branches extcnfive, and the fuc-
ceeding gradually flrorter to the top of the plant,
forming a pyramid in figure ; the leaves are of a
broad lanceolate fhape, dentated or deeply ferrated,
terminating with a flender point, and of a deep full
green colour ; the large expanded fiowers, that fo
ornament this plant, are of a fplendid perfect yel-
low colour ; but when they contract again, before
they drop off, the underfidc of the petals next the

calyx

KORTH AMERWA. 4O5

calyx beconicb; of a reddifh flefh colour, inclining to
Vermillion ; the flowers begin to open in the even-
ing, are luUy expanded during the night, and are in
their beauty next morning, but clofe and wither
before noon. There is a daily profufe fucceffion for
many weeks, and one fmgle plant at the fame in-
ftant prefents to view many hundred flowers. I
have meafured thefe flowers above five inches in
diameter, they have an agreeable fcent.

After leaving thefe fplendid fields of the golden
Oenothera, I paffed by old deferted plantations and
high forefts ; and now having advanced above ten
miles, landed at a blufi', where mooring my bark
in a fafe harbour, I afcended the bank of the river,
and penetrating the groves, came prefently to old
fields, where I obferved ruins of ancient habitations,
there being abundance of Peach and Fig trees,
loaded with fruit, which aiTording a very acceptable
dcfert after the heats and toil of the day, and cvenr
jng drawing on apace, I cnncluded to rake up my
quarters here for the night. The Fig trees were
large as well as their 'fruit; which was when ripe,
of the fliape of pcar^^, and as large, and of a dark
bluifli purple colour.

Next morning I avofe early, contlnuhig my
voyage ; paded by, on each hand, high fbrefls and
rich fwamps, and fre<]uently ruins of ancient French
plantations; the Cianes and (lyprefs trees of jtn
altonifliing magnitude, as w-erc the trees of other
tribes, indicating an excellent foil. C'ame to at
noon, and advancing forward fioni the river, and
penetrating the awful (hades, pafTed between the
ftarely columns of tiie Magnolia grandi flora, and
came to the afcents fupporting the high forcits and
expanfive plains above — ^Vhiit a fylvan fcene is

here!

405 TRAVELS IN*

here! the pompous Magnolia reigns fovereign oF
the forcfls ; how fwcet the aromatic lllicium groves !
how gaily flutter the radiated wings of tt^e Mag-
nolia auiiculata, each branch fupporting an ex-
panded umbrella, fuperbly crefted with a filver
plume, fragrant bloflbm, or crimfon fludded flro-
bile and fruits i 1 recline on the verdant bank,
and view the beauties of the groves, iEfculus pa-
via, Prunus nemoralis, floribus racemofis, foUis
fempervirentibus, nitidis, ^^fculus alba, Kydrangia
quercifolia, Cafiine, Magnolia pyraniidata, foliis
ovatis, obiongis, acumindti;s, bafi auriculatis, ftro-
bilo oblongo ovato, Myrica, Rhamnus frangula,
Halefea, Bignonia, Azalea, Lonicera, Sideroxylon,
with many more.

Returned to the river, re-embarked, and at even-
ing came to, in fight of the confluence or junction
of the two large arms of the great Mobile river, i. e.
the Tombigbe or Chicafaw with the Alabama or
Coofau. About one hundred and fifty miles above
this conflux, at Ft. Thouloufe, the Alabama receives
into it from the Eafl: the great Talapoofe river,
■when the former takes the name of Coofau, which
it bears to its fource, which is in the So. Weft pro-
montories of the Cherokee or Apalachian Moun-
tains in the Chicafaw territories.

Obferved very large alligators, bafl^ing on the
Ihores, as well as Rvimming in the river and la-
goons.

Next morning entered the Tpmbigbe, and af-
cended that fine river. Jufl within its Capes, on
the left hand, is a large lagoon, or capacious bay
of fl:ill water, containing many acres in furfice,
which at a difl:ant view prcfents a very fingular and
diverting fcene ; a delufive green wavy plain of the

Nympha^a

NORTH AMERICA. 407

Nymphcea Nclumbo : the furface of the water is
overfpread with its round floating leaves, whilft:
thefe are fhadowed by a forefl of umbrageous leaves
with gay flowers, waving to and fro on flexible
icems, three or four feet high : thefe fine flowers
are double ag a rofe, and when exjvandcd are (t\en
or eight inches in diameter, of a lively lemon yel-
low colour. 'J'he feed velfel when ripe, is a large
truncated, dry porous capfule, its plane or difli
regularly perforated, each cell containing an oval
oflcous gland or nut, gf the fize of a filbert ; when
thefe are fully grown, before they become quite hard,
they are fweet and pleafant eating, and tafte like
chefnuts : I fed freely on them without any injury,
but found them laxative. I have obfervcd this
aquatic plant, in my travels along the Eaftern fhores
of this continent^ in the large rivers and lakes, from
New-Jerfey to this place, particularly in a large
pond or lake near Cape Fear river in North Caro-
lina, which is about two miles over and twelve
feet water, notwithftanding which its furface is al-
mofl: covered with the leaves of this plant ; it alfo
abounds in Wakamaw lake near the fame river, and
in Savanna river at Auguda, and all over Eaffc
Florida.

Proceeding up the river, came to at a very high
fteep blurt' of j-ed and particoloured tenacious clay,
mider a deep flratum of loofe fandy mould : after
afcending this Ileep bank of the river, I found my-
felf in an old field, and penetrating the forelfcs fur-
rounding, obferved them to be young growth, co-
vering very extenfive old plantations, which was
evident from the ridges and hillocks which once
raifed their Corn (Zea), Batatas, kc. I fuppofe this
to be the lite of an ancient foriliied poft of the

I'Vench,

408 TRAVELS IN

French, as there appear veftiges of a rampart and
other traces of a fortrefs ; perhaps fort Louis de la
Mobile ; but in all probablHty it will not remain
long vifiblc, the ftream of the river making daily
encroachments on it, by Carrying away the land on
which it flood.

Obferved here amongfl other vegetable produc-
tions, a new fpeciesj or at lead a variety, of Hale-
fia diptera : thefe trees are of the fize and figure of
ordinary Mulberry trees, their ftems (liort, and
tops regular and fpreading, and the leaves large
and broad, in fize and figure refembling thofe of
our common wild Mulberry.

Oppofite this bluff, on the other fide of the river,
IS a diftrift of fwamp or low land, the richefl I ever
faw, or perhaps any where to be feen : as for the
trees I Ihall forbear to defcribe them, becaufe it
would appear incredible ; let it fuffice to mention,
that the Cyprus, Afli, Platanus, Populus, Llquid-
ambar, and others, are by far the talleft, flraightefl
and every way the mofl enormous that 1 have feen or
heard of. And as a proof of the extraordinary fer-
tility of the foil, the reeds or canes (Ar undo gigantea)
grow here thirty or forty feet high, and as thick as
a man's arm, or three or four inches in diameter ;
I fuppofe one joint of fome of them would contain
above a quart of v/ater ; and thefe reids ferve very
well for letting poles, or mafts for barks and canoes.
Continued yet afcending this fine river, paffmg
by the nioft delightful and fertile fituations : ob-
ferved frequently, on bluffs of high land, deferted
plantations, the houfes always burnt down to the
ground, and ancient Indian villages. But perceiv-
ing httle variation in the natural vegetable pro-
ductions, the currt;nt of the river ' preffins down

With

KORTH AMEPvICA. 409

with increafed force and velocity, 1 turned about,
defcending the river, and next evening came to at
a large well cultivated plantation^ where I lodged
;dl night, and the evening follown-.^ returned to
Taenfa.

Next day I felt fymptoms of a fever, which in a
few days bid me up and became dangerous. But
a dole of Tart. Emet. broke its violence ; and care
and good attendance, after a few day^in fome de-
gree reflored my health, at lead, fo far as to ena-
ble me to rove about the neighbouring forelts ;
and here being informed of a certain plant of ex-
traordinary medical virtues, and in high eftima-
tion with the inhabitants, which grew in the
hilly land about thirty miles higher up the river,
I refolved to fet out in fearch of it, the Major be-
ing fo polite and obliging as to furnifli me with
Iiorfes to ride, and a Negro to pilot and take care of
me.

Sat off in the morning, and in the courfe of the
day's journey crollcd Icveral creeks and brooks, one
of which fvvam our horfe.s. On palling by a fwamp
at the head of a hay or lagoon of the river, I ob-
ferved a fpecies oFCyprefs ; it differs a lirrle from the
white Cedar of New-Jcrfey and Pennfylvania (Cu-
preflTus thyoides), the trunk is Ihort and the limbs
fpread horizontally, the branches fuller of leaves
and the cones lareer and of a crimfon or reddilh
purple colour when ripe.

After leaving the low grounds and afcendmg
the hiils, difcovercd the plant I went in fearch of,
whicii I had before frequently obferved in my de-
fcent from the Creek nation down towards Taenfa.
Tills plant ' appci^rs to be a fpecies of CoUinfonia ;

it

413 TRAVELS IN

.it K diuretic and carminative, and cfleemed a
]X)\verf"ul febrifuge, an infufion of its tops is ordi-
narily drunk at breakfafl:, and is of an exceeding
pleafant tafte and flavour : when In flower, which is
the time the inhabitants gatiier it for prefervation
and ufe, it poflfefl^es a lively aromatic fcent, partak-
ing of lemon and anifeed. Lodged this night at a
plantarion near the river, and met with civility and
good entertainment. The man and his three fons
are famous hunters. I was aflfured from good au-
thoiity that the old gentleman, for his own part,
kills three hundred deer annually, befides bears,
tygers, and wolves.

Next morning eaily, fat off again, on my return,
and talcing a ditlcrent path back, for the fake of va-
riety, though fomewhat farther about and at a
greater di fiance from the banks of the river, ob-
ferved abundance of the tall blue Sage : it grows
fix or feven feet high ; many flems arife from one
root or fource ; thefe flems are thick, woody and
quadrangular, the angles obtufe : the narrow lanr
ceolate and ferrated leaves are placed oppofite,
and are feffile, lightly embracing the branches,
which terminate wiih ipikcs of large flowers of a ccr
leilial blue colour.

Thefe flony gravelly heights produce a variety
of herbaceous plants, but one in particular I fliall
mention ©n account of its fmgular beauty : I be-
lieve it is a fpecies of Gerardea (Gerardea flammea) ;
}t grows erecl, a fmgle fl:em from a root, three or
four feet m height, branching very regularly from
about one half its length upwards, forming a cone
or pyramid, profufely garniflied with large tubular
labi^ted fcarlet or flame coloured flowers, which
give the plant a very fplendid appearance, even at

a great

NORTH AMERICA. 4II

CI great diilance. Returned home in the evening
fully fatisiied with the day's excurf.on, from the
difcovery of many curious and beautiful vegetables.

Having advice from Mobile of an opportunity
to Manchac, although my health was not cilablilh-
ed, feverifh fymptoms continuing.- lo lurk about mc,
I refolved, notwithflanding, immediately to embrace
this offer, and embarked again, dcfcending the ri-
ver to the city in company with Dr. Grant, a phy-
fician of the earrifon, and late in ilie evenine ar-
jiv^^d in town, having fullered a fmart fit of the fe-
ver by the way.

In the courfe of converfation v.'idi the doctor, I
remaiked that during my travels fince leaving the
Creek nation, and when there, I had not i'ccn any
honey bees. He replied, that there were fev/ or
none Weft of the illhmus of Florida, and but one
hive in Mobile, which was lately brought there from
Europe, the Englilh iuppofing that there were none
in the country, not fmding any when they took pof-
feifion of it after the Spanilh and French. I had
been aHurcd by the traders that there were none in
Well: Florida, 'which to me feerned extraordinary
nnd almoft incredible, huce they are fo numerous
Till along the rali:ern continent from Nova Scotia to
Kaft Florida, excn in the wild forelts, as to be
thought, by the generality of the inhabiiants, abo-
rigines of tf.is continent.

The boat in wliicii I had taken a pafTage (o Pearl
river, not bting in readiiiefs to depart for feveral
days to come, I fought opportunities to fill up this
lime to the belt advantage poliible ; and hearing
of a boat going (o the river Perdedo, for the pur-
pofe of fccuring the remains of a v>reck, I apprc-

li ended

412 TRAVELS IN

bended this favourable time to go and fcarch that
coaft, the captain civilly offering me a paffage and
birth with him in a handfome light failing-boat.
Set fail early on a fine morning, and having a briik
leadin^"" breeze, came to in the evening juft within
Mobile point ; collected a quantity of drift wood to
keep up a light and fmoke away the mufquitoes, and
relied well on the clean fandy beach until the cool
morning awoke us. We hoifled fail again, and
foon doubled the point or Eafl promontory of the
cape of the bay, (Iretching out many miles and point-
in"- towards Dauphin ifland, between which and
this cape is the fhip channel.

Goading along the fea-fhore Eaftward, we foon
came up to the wreck, which being already drip-
ped of her fails, &c. our captain kept on for Pen-
facola, where we arrived late in the evening.

My arrival at this capital, at prefent the feat of
<Tovernment, was merely accidental and undefigned ;
and having left at Mobile all my papers and tefti-
monials, I defigned to conceal my avocations, but
my name being made knov/n to Dr. Lorimer, one
of the honourable council, he lent me a very polite
invitation, and requefted that he might acquaint
?-overnor Cheder of my arrival, who he knev/
would expect that I ftiould wait on him, and would
be pleafed to fee me. I begged to be excufed, at
this time, as the boat would fail back for Mobile in a
few hours, in which I was under the necedity of re-
turning, or mud lofe my pafiage to the Mididippi ; but
durin<^^ this expodulation I received a letter from
Mr. Livingdon the fecretary, whom I v/aited upon,
and was received very refpetirully and treated with
the utmod politenefs and affability. Soon after, the
governor's chariot paded by, his excellency return-
ing

KOkTII AM£R.ICA. 413

ing from a morning vifit to his farm a few miles
from Penfacola. Mr. Livingflon went with me and
introduced me to the governor, who commended
my purfuits, and invited me to continue in Weft
Florida in refearches after fubjetSts of natural hif-
tory, &c. nobly offering to bear my expences, and
a refidence in his own family as long as I chofe to
continue in the colony ; very judicioufly obferving,
that a complete inveftigatlon of its natural hiftory
could not be accomplilhed in a fliort fpace of time,
fince it would require the revolution of the feafons
to difcover and view vegetable nature in all her va-
rious perfections.

The captain of our fortunate bark by this time
being ready to fail, I took leave of his excellency
the governor, and bid adieu to my friends Dr. Lo-
rimer, Mr. Livingflon, and others : fet fail about
noon on our return, and came to again within die
capes of Mobile river.

Since I have hitherto given a fuperficial account
of the towns, ports, improvements and other re-
markable produdions of nature, and human arts
and induflry, during the courfe of my perigrina-
tion, I fliall not pafs by Penfacola and its environs-
This city commands lome natural advantages, fu-
perior to any other port in this province, in point
of naval commerce, and fuch as human art and
flrength can never fupply. It is delightfully fituated
upon gentle rifmg afcents environing a fpacious
harbour, fafe and capacious enough to ihelter all the
navies of Europe, and excellent ground for anchor-
age ; the Weft end of St. Rofe ifland ftretches acrofs
the great bay St. Maria Galves, and its South- Weft
projeding point forms the harbour of Penfacola,

v/hich.

4T4 TRAVELS IN

■which, with the road or entrance, Is defended by a
block-houfe built on the extremity ol that point,
•which at the lame time ferves the purpofe of a
fortrefs and look-out tower. There are feveral
rivers which run into this p^reat bay from the con-
tinent, but none of them navigable for large craft,
to any confiderable diltance into the country : the
Shambc is the largelt, which admit;? fhallops fome
miles up, and pevriauguas upwards of fiity miles.
There are fome fpots of good high land, and rich
fwamps, favourable for the produ(fl:ion of rice on
the banks of this liver, which have given rife to
fome plantations producing Indigo, Rice, Corn,
Batatas, &c. Thefe rivers diviJing and fpreading
abroad their nimierous branches, over the ex-
panfive flat low country (between the two great
rivers Apalachucla and Mobile), which confijts of
favannas and cane meadows, fill them v.ith brooks
and w^ater courfes, and render them exuberant paf-
ture for cattle.

There are feveral hundred habitations in Penfa-
cola ; the governor's palace is a large flone build-
ing ornamented with % tower, built by the Spani-
ards. The town is defended by a large llockado for-
trefs, the plan a tetragon with falient angles at each
coiner, where is a block-houfe or round tower, one
ftory higher than the curtains, where are light cannon
mounted : it is conflrufted of wood. Within this
fortrefs is the council chamber ; here the records are
kept, houfes for the officers and barracks for the ac-
com.modation of the garrifon, arfcnal, magazine,
kc. The fecretary refides in a fpacious, neat build-
ing : there are feveral merchants and gentlemen of
other profeffions, who have re'pe^table and conve-
nient buildings; in the town.

There

NORTH AMERICA. 4 i t;

There were growing on the fanJ hills, environ-
ing Penfacola, Icveral curious non-defcribcd plants ;
particularly one of the verticillate order, about
eighteen inches in height : the ilowers, which form-
ed loofe fpikes, were large and of a fine fcarlet
colour ; but not having time to examine the frudi-
fication, or colle<fl: good fpecimens, I am ignorant
of what order or genus it belongs to. And in
the level wet favannas grew plentifully a new and
very elegant fpecies of Saracinia (Saracinia lacuno-
fa) ; the leaves of this plant, which are twelve or
fourteen inches in length, fland nearly credl, are
round, tubular and ventricofc — but not ridged with
longitudinal angles or prominent nerves, as the
leaves of the Saracinia Hava are : the aperture at
top may be fliut up by a cap or lid, of a helmet
form, which is an appendage of the leaf, turning
over the orifice in that fmgular manner; the vcntrl-
cofe, or inflated part of the leaf, which is of a pale,
but vivid green colour, is beautifully ornamented
with rofe coloured ftuds or blifters, and the inner
furfa<!:e curioufly infcribcd, or variegated, with crim-
fon veins or fibres. It was pad the time for flower-
ing, but the plant in any fituation is a very great
curiofity.

Next morning early we arofe from our hard
fandy fea-beaten couch, being dilturbed^the whole
night by the troublelbme mufquitoes ; fet fail, and
before night returned fafe to the city of Mobile.

CHAP.

4l5 TRAVELS m

C H A P. VII.

The next day after my return to Mobile, I
found myfelf very ill, and not a little alarmed by
an excelFive pain in my head, attended with a high
fever ; this diforder foon fettled in my eyes, nature
purfuing that way to expel the malady, caufmg a
mod painful defluxion of pellucid, corrofive water ;
notwithflanding, I next day fet off on board a large
trading boat, the property of a French gentleman,
and commanded by him (he being general interpre-
ter for the Chaclaw nation), on his return to his
'plantations, on the banks of Pearl river : our bark
was large, well equipped for falling, and m.anned
with three flout Negroes, to row in cafe of neccf-
,fity. "We embarked in the evening, and came to
about fix miles below the town, at a pleafant farm,
the mader of which (who was a Frenchman) enter-
tained us in a very polite and friendly manner.
The \vind favourable, next morning early we fet
fail again, and having made extraordinary way,
about noon came up abreaft of a high fteep bluff,
or perpendicular cliff of high land, touching on
the bay of the "\Veff coaft, where we went on fliore,
to give liberty to the Haves to reft and refrefh
themfelves. In the mean time I accompanied the
captain on an excurfion into the fpacious level
forefts, which fpread abroad from the fhore to a
great diftance back ; obferved veftiges of an an-
cient fortrefs and fettlement, and there yet remain
a few pieces of iron cannon ; but what principally
attra«fted my notice, was three vaft iron pots or ket-
tles, each of many hundred gallons contents : upon

inquiry.

NORTH AMERICA. 417

inquiry, my aflbciate informed me they were for
the purpofe of boiling tar to pitch, there being va(t
forefts of Pine trees in the viciniry of this place. In
Carolina the inhabitants purfuc adiiferent method ;
when they defign to make pitch, they dig large
holes in the ground, near the tar kiln, which they
line with a thick coat of good clay, into which they
conduct a fuflicient quantity of tar, and fet it on
fire, fufiering it to flame and evaporate a length of
time fuflicient to convert it into pitch, and when
cool, lade it into barrels, and fo on umil they have
confumed all the tar, or made a fuflicient quantity
of pitch for their purpofe.

After re-imbarking, and leaving this blulFa few
miles, we put in to fliore again, and came to a
farm houfe, a little diflance from the water, where
we fupplied ourfelves with Corn meal. Batatas,
bacon, &lc. The French gentleman (proprietor of
the plantation) was near eighty years old, his hair
almofl: white with age, yet he appeared active,
flrong and mufculur ; and his mother who was pre-
fent, was one hundred and five years old, a<5livc
and cheerful, her eyes feemed as brilk apd fpark-
ling as youth, but flie was of a diminutive fize, not
half the flature and weight of her fon : it was now
above fifty years fmcc flie came into America from
old France.

I embarked again, proceeding dovx-n the bay, and
in the evening doubled the well point or cape of
the bay, being a promontory of the main, between
which and Dauphin ifland, we entered the channel
Oleron. From this time, until we arrived at this gen-
tleman's habitation on Pearl river, I was incapable
of making any obfervations, for my eyes could not
bear the light, as the ieaft ray admitted feemed

E e as

4l3 TRAVELS IN

as the piercing of a fword : and by the time I had
arrived at Pearl river, the excruciating pain had
rendered me almod frantic and flupified for want
of fleep, of which I was totally deprived ; and the
corroding water, every few minutes, Itreaming from
my eyes, had flripped the Ikin off my face, in the
fame manner as Icalding water would have done.
I continued three days with this friendly Frenchman,
who tried every remedy, that he or his family could
recollecl, to adminifter relief, but to no purpofe.
My fituation was now become dangerous, and I
expected to fmk under ihe malady, as I believe my
friends here did. At lad the man informed me, that
on Pearl ifland, about twelve miles didance, refided
an Englifh gentleman, who had a variety of medi-
cines, and if I chofe to go to him he would take me
there. I accordingly bid adieu to this hofpitable
family, and fet oft' with him in a convenient boat ;
before night arrived at Mr. Rumfey's, who re-
ceived me kindly, and treated me with the utmofl
humanity, during a flay of four or five weeks. The
night however after my arrival here I fmcerely
thought would be my lafl, and my torments were
fo extreme as to defire It : havinij furvived this
tedious night, 1 in fome degree recovered my
fenfcs, and alked Mr. Rumicy if he had any Can-
tharides ; he foon prepared a bliltcring plailler for
me, which 1 direded to be placed betwixt rn^ fhoul-
ders; this produced the defired relief, and more than
anfwered my expedaiion, for it had not been there
a quarter of an hour before I fell afleep, and re-
mained fo a whole day, when I awoke intirely re-
hcved from pain, my fcnfes in perfect: harmony and
mind compoied. 1 do not know how to exprefs
myfelf on this occafion ; all was peace and tran-
quillity: although I had my fight imperfedly, yet my

body

NORTH AMERICA. 419

body feemed but as a light (hadow, and my exiftence
as a pleafing delirium, for I fometimes doubted of
its reality. I however, from that moment began to
mend, until my health was perfectly reftored ; but
It was feveral weeks before I could expofe my eyes
to open day-light, and at lail 1 found my left eye
confiderably injured, which futfered the greateft
pain and weight of the difeafe.

As foon as I acquired ftrcngth to walk about, and
bear the lead impreihon of open day-light on my
eyes, I made frequent, indeed I may fay daily ex-
curfions in and about this ifland, llrolling fhroUt^h
its awful (hades, venerable groves and fublime fo-
refls, confiding of the Live Oaks and Magnolia
grandiflora, Laurus Borbonia, Olea Americana,
Fagus fylvatica, Laur. SalTafras, Qiiercus hcmi-
fpherica, Tilia, Liquidambar flyraciflua, Morus,
Gleditfia, Callicarpa, HaleHa, Sec.

The ifland is fix or feven miles in length, and
four or five in width, including the fait marlhes and
plains, which inveft it on every fide, 1 believe we
may only except a narrow ilraud at the South end
of it, wallied by Lake Borgone at the Regullets,
which is a promontory compofed of banks of fea-
fhells and fand cafl up by the force of winds, and
the furf of the Lake ; thcle Ihells are chiefly a fmall
fpecies of white clam Ihells, called les coquilles.
Here are a few Ihiubs growing on_ thefe flielly
heighcs, viz, Rhamnus frangula, Sideroxylon, My-
rica, Zanthoxylon clava HercuUs, Juniperus Ame-
ricana, Lyfium falfum ; together with I'everal new-
genera and fpecies of the herbaceous, and fulfruti-
cofe tribes, Croton, Stillingia, tvc. but particularly
a fpecies of MiinoTa (Mimofa virgata), which in
refpcct of the elegancy of its pinnated leaves, can
E e 2 not

420 TRAVELS IN

not be exceeded by any of that celebrated family.
It is a perennial plant, fending up many nearly
erect ftems horn the root or fource ; thefe divide
themfelves into many afcendant llender rods like
branches, which are ornamented with double pin-
nated leaves, of a moft delicate formation. The
compound flov^'ers, are of a pale, greenifh yellow,
coUecled together in a fmall oblong head, upon a
long flender peduncle, the legumes are large, lu-
nated and flat, placed in a fpiral or contorted man-
ner, each containing feveral hard compreflcd feeds
or little beans.

The interior and by far the greater part of the
ifland confills of high land ; the foil to appearance
a heap of fea fand in fome places, with an admix-
ture of fea (hells ; this foil, notwithftanding its fandy
and ileril appearance, when divefted of its natural
vegetative attire, has from what caufc 1 know not,
:i continual refource of fertility within itfelf : the
furface of the earth, after being cleared of its origi-
nal vegetable productions, expofed a few feafons
to the fun, .winds, and triturations of agriculture,
appears fcarcely any thing but heaps of while fand,
vet it produces Corn (Zea), Indigo, Batatas, Beans,
Feas, Cotton, Tobacco, and almod every fort or
efculent vegetable, in a 'degree of luxuriancy very
faiprizing and unexpecled, year after year, incef-
fantly, without any addition of artificial manure or
compoft : there is indeed a foundation of flrong
adhefive clay, confifting of (Irata of various colours,
which I difcovered by examining a well, lately dug
in Mr. Rumfey's yard ; but lying at a great depth
under the furface, the roots of fmall flirubs and
iu;rbage, cannot reach near to it, or receive any
benefit, unlefs we may fuppofe, that afcending

fumes

NORTH AMERICA. 421

fames or exhalations, from this bed of clay, may
have a vivilic nutritive quality, and be received by
the fibres of the roots, or being condenfed in the
atmofphere by noc1:in-nal chills, fall -w ith devvs upon
the leaves and twigs of thefe plants, and there ab-
forbed, become nutritive or exhilerating to them.

Befides the native foreft trees and flirubs already
noted, manured fruit trees arrive in this ifland to
the utmofl: degree of perfedion, as Pears, Peaches,
Figs, Grape Vines, Plumbs, kc. ; of the laft men-
tioned genus, there is a native fpccies grows in this
ifland, which produces its large oblong crimfon
fruit in prodigious abundance ; the fruit, though of
a molt enticing appearance, is rather too tart, yet-
agreeable eating, at fultry noon,' in this burning
climate ; it affords a molt delicious and reviving
marmalade, when preferved in fugar, and makes
excellent taits ; the tree grows about twelve feet
high, the top fpreading, the branches fpiny and the
leaves broad, nervous, fcrrated, and terminating
with a fubulated point.

My eyes having acquired fufTicIent flrength to
endure the open day light, I fet off from Pearl
ifland, for Manchac on the IMiffifiippi, in a handfome
large boat, with three Negroes to navigate her.
Leaving the friendly Mr. Rumfey's feat on Pearl
Ifland, we defcended a creek from the landing
near his houfe ; this creek led us about a miic,
winding through fait f^dgy marflies, into Lake
Pontchartrairt, along whofe North fliores we coafl-
ed about twenty miles, having lov/, reedy marflies,
on our Itarboard : thefe marflies were very exten-
fjve between us and the far difl'ant hig-h forefls on
the main : at evening the fliore became bolder, with
fundy elevations, affording a fev/ dwarf Oaks, Zan-

thoxylon.

422 TRAVELS IN

thoxylon, Myrica and Rham. frangula. We came
to in a little bay, kindled a fire, and after fupper
betook ourfelves to repofe ; our fituation open, airy
and cool, on clean fand banks ; we relied quietly,
though fometimes roufed by alarms from the croco-
diles, which are herein great numbers, and of an
enormous bulk and flrength.

Next day early we p^ot under way, purfuing our
former courfe, nearly Weft ward, keeping the North
ihore feveral leagues. Immediately back of this
high fandy ftranu, (which is caft up by the beating
furf and winds, fetting from feaward, acrofs the
wideft part of the lake) the ground fudd^nly falls,
and becomes extenfive flat Cyprefs fwamps, tlic
fources of creeks and rivers, which run into the
lake, or Pearl River, or other places ; the high
forefts of the main now gradually approaching the
lake, advance up to the very fliore, where we find
houfes, plantations and new fetllements : we came
to at one of them charmingly fituated, fet fail again,
and came up to the mouth of the beautiful Taen-
fapaoa, which takes that name from a nation of In-
dians, who formerly pofleiTed the territories lying on
its banks, which are fertile and delightful regions.
This river is narrow at its entrance, but deep, and
faid to be navigable for large barks and periauguas
upwards of fifty miles, juil M'ithin its capes, on
the leeward fliore, are heights, or a group of low
hills (compofed of the fmall clam fliells, called les
coquiiles), which gradually deprefs as we retreat
back from the river, and the furface of the land is
more level ; thefe fhells diffolving and.mixing with
the furface, render the vegetative mould black,
rich, and productive. Here are a few habitations,
and fome fields cleared and cultivated ; but the

inhabitants

NORTH AMERICA. 423

inhabitants neglect agriculture, and generally em-
ploy themfelves in hunting and fifliing: we however
i'urnifhed ourl'elves here with a fufBciency of ex-
cellent Batatas. I obferved no new vegetable pro-
dudions, except a fpecies of Cleome (Cleome lu-
pinifoHa) ; this plant polfcffes a very (hcng fcent,
fomevvhat like Gum Aili\fetida, notwitliitanding
which the inhabitants give it a place in foups and
fauces.

From Taenfapaoa, we fllU coailed Weflward,
three or four miles, to the flraits that communicate
■with the lake Maurepas ; entering which and conti-
nuing fix or eight miles, having low fwampy land on
each fide, the channel divides, forming an ifland in
rhe middle of the pafs : we took the right hand chan-
nel, which continues three or four miles, when the
channels reunite in full view of the charming lake.
We came to at an elevated point, or promontory, on
the (larboard main fhore, it being the North cape,
from whence 1 enjoyed a very plealing and complete
view of the beautiful lake Maurepas ; entering which
next morcing, a Heady favourable gale foon wafted
us nine or ten m.iles over to the mouth of the river
Amite ; afcended between ixs low banks ; the land
on each fide a levtl fwamp, about two feet above
the furfacc of the water, fuj)porting a thick fcrert
of trees, confiding chiefly of Fraxinus, Nyfi'a aqua-
lica, NviTa multiflora, CupreiTus diilicha, Quercus
phillos, Acer rubrum, Ac negundo, Acer glaucum,
Sambucus, Laurus Borbonia, Carpinus, Ulmus, and
others. The foil or earth humid, black and rich.
There is fcarcely a perceptible current : the water
dark, deep, turgid and ftagnatc, being from flioie
to Ihore covered with a fcum or pellicle of a green
and purplifli caft, and perpetually throwing up

frpm

4i4 TRAVELS IN*

from the mudJy bottom to its furface minute air
bladders or bubbles : in fhort, thefe dark loathfome
waters, from every appearance, feem to be a llrong
e.xtracl or tincture of the leaves of the trees, herbs
and reeds, arifmg from the (liores, and which almofl:
overfpread them, and float on the furface, infomuch
that a great part of thefe flagnate rivers, during the
fummer and autumnal feafons, are conftrained to
pafs under a load of grafs and weeds ; which are
continually vegetating, and fpreading over the fur-
face from the banks, until the rifmg floods of win-
ter and fpring, rufliing down from the main, fvvecp
them away, and purify the waters. Late in the
evening we difcovered a narrow ridge of land clofe
to the river bank, high and dry enough to fufl'er us
to kindle a fire, and fpace fuflicient to fpread our
bedding on. But here, fire and fmoke were infuf-
ficient to expel the hods of mufquitoes that inveflied
our camp, and kept us awake during the long and
tedious night, fo that the alligators had no chance
of taking us napping. We were glad to rife'early
in the morning, proceeding up the Amite. The
land nov/ gradually rifes, the banks become higher,
the foil drier and firmer four or five feet above the
furface of the river, the trees are of an incredible
magnitude, particularly Platanus occidentalis, Frax-
inus, ulmus, Quercus hemifpherica, &c. The
Canna Indica grows here in furprifing luxuriance,
prefenting a glorious fliow ; the Hem rifes fix, feven
and nine feet high, terminating upwards with fpikes
of fcarlet flowers.

Now having advanced near thirty miles up the
Amite, we arrived at a very large plantation, the
property of a Scotch gentleman, who received me

with

NORTH AMERICA.

with civility, entreating me to rcfiJe with him ; but
being impatient to get to the river, and pleading
the neceflity of profecuting my travels with alacrity,
on account of the fcafon being fo far advanced, I
was permitted to proceed, and fet off next morn-
-ing. Still afcending the Amite about twenty miles
farther, arrived at the forks, where the Iberville
comes in on the left hand, afcending vi hich a little
way, we foon came to tlie landing, where are ware-
houfes for depofiting merchandize, this being the ex-
tremity of navigation up this canal, and here fmall
velfels load ^ind unload. From this place to Man-
chac, on thebanks of theMifliuippi, jufi: above the
mouth of the canal, is nine miles by land ; the
road (Iraight, fpacious, and perfedly level, under
(he {liadovk-- of a grand foreft ; the trees of the firll:
order in magnitude and beauty, as Magnolia gran-
diflora, Liriodendron tuHpifera, Platanus, Juglans
nigra, Fiaxinus excehior, Morus rubra, Lauru>;
faflalras, Laurus Boibonia, Tilea, Liquidambar
llyracifiua, 5cc.

At evening arrived at Manchac, when I direclcJ
my fteps to the banks of the Milliflippi, where 1 ftood
for a time as it were fafcinatcd by the magnificence
of the great fiie ' of rivers.

The depth of the liver here, even in this feafon,
at its lowell ebb, is aflonilhing, not Icfs than forty
fathoms ; and the width about a mile or fomewliut
iefs : but it is not cxpanfion of furfacc alone that
, flrikes us with ideas of magnificence ; the altitude
and theatrical afccnts of its penfiie banks, the ftea-
dy courfe of the nughty flood, the trees, high fo-
lelfs, even every particular objed, as well as focie-

* Which is the meanirg of Uic \T*)rd MiflKTippi.

ties.

426 TRAVELS IN

ties, bear the (lamp of fuperiority and excellence j;
all unite or combine in exhibiting a profpect of the
^rand lliblinie. The banks of the river at Manchac,
though frequently overflowed by the vernal inunda-
tions, are about fifty feet perpendicular height above
the farface of the water (by which the channel at
thofe times mull be about two hundred and ninety
feet deep) ; and thefe precipices being an accumu-
lation of the fediment of muddy waters, annually
brought do'vvn with the floods, of a light loamy con-
fiftence, ccntiiiually cracking and parting, prefent
to view deep yawning chafms, iri time fplit oiF, as
the aclive perpetual current undermines j and the
mighty mafles of earth tumble headlong into the
river, whofe impetuous current fweeps away and
lodges them elle where. Theie are yet vifible fome
remains of a high artificial bank, in front of the
buildings of the town, formerly call up by the
French, to refifl the inundations, but found to be
ineft'edual, and now in part tumbled down the pre-
cipice : as the river daily encroaches on the bluff,
fome of the habitations are in danger, and muft be
very foon removed orfwallowed up in the deep gulph
of Yv^aters. A few of the buildings that have been
eilablirned by the Englidi fnice taking pofleflion of
the colony, are large and commodious, particularly
the warehoufes of Melfrs. Swanfon & Co. Indian
traders and merchants.

The Spaniards have a fmall fortrefs and garrifon
on the point of land below the Iberville, clofe by
the banks of the river, which has a communica-
tion with Manchac, by a flender narrow wooden
bridge acrofs the channel of Iberville, fupported on
wooden pillars, and not a bow fliot from the habi-
iations cf Manchac. The Iberville in the fummer

feafoii

NORTH AMERICA. 427

feaion is dry, and its bed twelve or fifteen feet
above the furface of the Mifliflippi ; but in tlie win-
ter and fpring has a great depth of water, and a
very rapid dream which flows into the Amite, thence
down through the hd^^es into the bay of Pearls to
the ocean.

Having recommendations to the inhabitants of
Batonrouge, lunv called New-Richmond, more than
fc ty miles higher up the river, one of thefe gentle-
men being prel'ent at Manchac, gave me a friendly
and 'polite invitation to accompany him on his re-
turn home. A pleafant morning ; we fat off after
breakfall, well accommodated in a handfome con-
venient boat, rowed by three blacks. Two miles
above Manchac we put in to fhore at Alabama : this
Indian village is delightfully fituated on feveral
fu elling green hills, gradually afcending from the
verge of the river : the people are a remnant of
the ancient Alabama nation, who inhabited the
Eaft arm of the great Mobile river, which bears
their name to this day, now pofleffed by the Creeks
or Mufcogulges, w ho conquered the former,

]\Iy friend having puxchafed fome bafkets and
earthenware, the manuladures of the people, we
left the village, and proceeding twelve miles higher
up the river, landed again at a very large and well
cultivated plantation, where we lodged all night.
Obferved growing in a fpacious garden adjacent to
the houfe, many ufeful as well as curious exotics,
particularly the delicate and fweet Tube-rofe (Poly-
anthus tuberofa) : it grows here in the open garden ;
the flowers were very large and abundant on the
Hems, which were five, fix or kvcn feet high, but
I faw none here having double flowers. In one cor-
ner of the garden was a pond or marfn, round about

which

TRAVELS IN

which grew luxuriantly the Scotch grafs (Panlcura
hirtellum, gramen panlcuni maximum, fpica divifa,
ariflis armatum, Sloan, jam. Cat. p. 30): the peo-
ple introduced this valuable grafs from the Weft-
Jndian iflands : they mow or reap it at any time, and
feed it green to cows or horfes ; it is nourilhing
food for all cattle. The Humble plant (Mimoia
pudica) grows here five or 'fix feet high, rambling
like Brier vines over the fences and Ihrubs, all
about the garden. The people here fay it is an in-
digenous plant, but this I doubt, as It is not feen
crrowinsf v/ild in the forefts and fields, and it differs
m no refpect from that which we protect m green
houfes and iloves, except in the extent and luxuri-
ancy of its branches, which may be owing to the
productive virgin mould and temperature of the
climate. They however pay no attention to its
culture, but rather condemn it as a noxious trou-
blefome weed, for wherever It gets footing, it
fprcads itfelf by" its feed in fo great abundance as
to opprefs and even extirpate more ufeful vegeta-
bles.

Next day we likewife vifited feveral delightful
and fpacious plantations on the banks of the river,
during our progrefs upwards : in the evening ar-
rived at my friend's habitation, a very delightful
villa, with extenfive plantations of Corn (Zea), In-
digo, Cotton and fome Rice.

A day or two after our arrival we agreed upon
a vifit to Point Coupe, a flourifliing French fettle-
ment on the Spanifh Ihore of the Milfiffippi.

Early rext morning we fet oif in a neat Cyprefs
boat with three oars, proceeding up the river ; and
h\ nitiht 2;ot to a large plantation near the White

elms,

NORTH AMERICA. 429

cllfi's, now called Brown's cliffs, in honour of the
late governor of Weft Florida, now of the Ba-
hama Iflands, who is proprietor of a large dillricl
of- country, lying on and adjacent to the Cliffs.
At the time of my refidence with ]\Ir. Rumfey*
at Pearl ifland, governor Brown, then on his paf-
fage to his government of the Bahamas, paid Mr.
Rumfey a vifit, who politely introduced me to
his excellency, acquainting him with my character
and purfuits : he defired me to explore his teriito-
ry, and give him my opinion of the quality of the
White plains.

Auguft 27th, 1777, having in readinefs horfes
well equipt, early in the morning we fet off for the
plains. About a niile from the river we croffed a
deep gully and fmall rivulet, then immediately en-
tered the Cane forefls, following a ftraight avenue
cut through them, off from the river, w hich conti-
nued about eight miles, the ground gradually but
imperceptibly rifmg before us : when at once opened
to view expanfive plains, which are a range of native
graffy fields of many miles extent, lyinj parallel
with the river, furrounded and interfered with Cane
brakes and high foreits of (lately trees ; the foil
black, extremely rich and produdive, but the vir-
gin mould becomes thinner and iefs fertile as it
verges on to the plains, which are fo barren as
fcarcely to produce a bufli or even grafs, in the mid-
dle or higheft parts. The upper flratum or furface
of the earth is a whitifn clay or chalk, with veins of
fea fliells, chielly of thofe little clams called les co-
qullles, or interfperfcd with the white earth or clav,
fo tenacious and hard as to render it quite fteril ;
fcarcely any vegetable growth to be feen, except
fhort grafs, or cruflaceous moffes ; and fome places
quite bare, where it is on the furface j but where it

lies

43^ TRAVELS IN

lies from eighteen inches to two or three feet be-
low, it has the virtue of fertiUzing the virgin
mould above, rendering it black, humid, foapy,
and incredibly produftive.

I obferved two or three fcrubby Pine trees or
rather dwarf buflies, upon the highelt ridge of
thefe plains, which are viewed here as a curiofity,
there being no Pine forefls within feveral leagues
diftance from the banks of this great river, but, on
the contrary, feemingly an endlefs wilderneis of
Canes, and the moil magnificent forefts of the
trees already noted, but particularly Platanus
occidentalis, Liriodendron, Magnolia grandiflora,
Liquidambar ftyraciflua, Juglans nigra, Juglans
exalt? ta, Tilea, Morus rubra, Gleditfia triacan-
thus, Laurus Borbonia, and Laurus faffafras ; this
lafl: grows here to a vaft tree, forty or fifty feet
straight trunk ; its timber is found to be ufeful,
fawn into boards and fcantling, or hewn into pods
for building and fencing.

On the more fertile borders of the plains, ad-
joining the furrounding forefts, are Sideroxylon,
Pyrus coronaria, and Strawberry vines (Fragaria)
but no fruit on them ; the inhabitants aifured me
they bore fruit in their feafon, very large, of a fine
red colour, delicious and fragrant.

Having made our tour and obfervatlons on the
White plains, we returned to the river at the clofe '
of the day, and next morning fat oft for Point Cou-
pe : paffed under the high painted cliffs, and then
let our courfe acrofs the Miiliilippi, which is here
near two miles over : touched at a large ifland near
the middle of the river, b'.ing led there, a little out

of

NORTH AMERICA. 4^t

of our way, in purfult of a bear croiTing from the
main, but he out-fvvam us, reached the iiiand,
and made a fafe retreat in the forelts entanoled
with vines ; we however purfued him on ihore,
but to no purpofe. After refiing a while, we re-
embarked and continued on our voyage, coaftint^
the Eatl fliore of the ifland to the upper end ; here
we landed again, on. an extended projecting point
of clean fand and pebbles, where were to be feeii
pieces of coal ilicking in the gravel and fand, to-
gether with other fragments of tlie foffil king-*
dom, brought down by inundations and lodged
there. We obferved a large kind of mufcle in thg'
fand ; the fliell of an oval form, having horns or
protuberances near half an inch in length and as
thick as a crow quill, which 1 fuppofe ferve the
purpofe of grapnels to hold their ground againfl
the violence ot the current. Here were great num-
bers of wild fowl wadin(][ in the ftioal water that
covers the fandy points, to a vaft diftance from
the 111 ores : they were geefe, brant, gannet, and
the great and beautiful whooping crane (grus al-
ber.) Embarked again, doubled the point of the
ifland and arrived at Point Coupe in the evening.

We made our vifit to a French gentleman, an
ancient man and wealthy planter, who, according
to the hiftory he favoured us with of his own life
and adventures, muft have been very aged ; his
hair was of a fdky white, yet his complexion was
llorid and coniUtution athletic. lie faid that foon
after he came to America, with many families of
his countrymen, they afcended the river to the
Cliffs of the Natches, where they fat down, being
entertained by the natives ; and- under cover of a
flrong fortrefs and garrilbn, eriabiiilied a fettle-
m.nt, and by cultivating the land and forming

phtn-

4j2 TRAVELS lU

plantations. In league and friendfliip with the In-
dians, in a few years they became a populous,
rich and growing colony ; when through the im-
prudent and tyrannical conduct of the commandant
towards the Natches, the ancients of the country,
a very powerful and civilized nation of red men,
who were fovercigns ci' the foil, and poffeifed the
country round a'bout them, they became tired of
thefe comers, and exafpeiated at their cruelty and
licentioufnefs, at length determining to revenge
themfelves of fuch inhumanity and ingratitude,
fecretly confpired their deflrufuion ; and their
meafures were fo well concerted with crher Indian
tribes, that if it had not been for the treachery of
one of their princeiTcs, with w-hom the commander
was In favour (for by her Influence her nation at-
tempted the deflruftlon of the fettlement, before
their , auxiliaries joined them, which afforded an
opportunity for fome few of the fettlers to efcape),
they would have fully accompliflied their purpofe.
However the fettleruent was entirely broken up,
mod of the Inhabitants being flaughtered in one
night, and the few who efcaped betook themfelves
to their canoes, defcending the river until they
arrived at this place, where they ellabliflied them-
felves again j and this gentlem.an had only time and
opportunity to take into his boat one heifer calf,
which he allured us was the mother of the nume-
rous herds he now poliefies, confiding of many
hundred head. Heie is now a very refpectable
village, defended by a flrong fortrefs and garrifon
of Spaniards, the commander being governor ot
the diftricl.

The French here are able. Ingenious and In-
duftrious planters: they live eafy and plentifully,
and arc far more regular and commendable in the

enjoy-

NORTH AMERICA. 433

enjoyment of their earnings than their neighbours
the Englifli : (heir drcfs ol their own inanuta<5lures,
well wrought and neatly made up, yet not extrava-
gant or loppilh : manners and converfation eafy,
moral and entertaining;.

o

Next morning we fat off again on our return
home, and calkd by the way at the Cliffs, which
is a perpendicular bank or bluff, rifmg up out ot
the river near one hundred feet above the prefent
fur face of tiie water, whofe active current fweeps
along by it. From eight or nine feet below the
loamy vegetative mould at top, to within four er
five feet of the water, thcfo cliffs prefent to vievv
flrata of clay, marie and chalk, of all colours, as
brown, red, yellow, white, blue and purple ; there
are feparate flrata of thefe various colours, as well
as mixed or particolouied : the lowelt ftratum
next the water is exadly of the fame black mud
or rich foil a*^ the adjacent low Cyprefs fwamps,
above and below the bluff; and here in the cliffs
we fee vafl flumps of Cyprefs and other trees,
which at this day grow in thefe low, wet fwamps,
and which range on a level with them. Thefe
flumps are found, fland upright, and feem to be
rotted off about two or three feet above the fpread
of their roots ; their trunks, hmbs, kc. lie in all
directions about them. But when thefe fwampy
forefts were growing, and by what caufe thev
were cut off and overwhelmed by the various
flrata of earth, v.'hich now rife near one hundred
feet above, at the brink of the cliffs, and two or
three times that height but a few hundred yards
back, are enquiries perhaps not eafily anfwered.
The fwelling heights rifmg gradually over and
beyond this precipice are now adorned with high
Ibrefls of ftalely Magnolia, Liquidambar, Fagus,

F f Quercu:^,

434 TRAVELS IN

C)uerciis, I.aurus, Moms, Juglans, Tilia, Ha-
lefia, TErcLilas, Callicarpa, Liriodeiidron, &c. Ar-
rived in the evening at the plantation below the
Clifl's, and the next day got faie back to my friend's
habitation.

Obferved few vegetable proJuclions difierent
from what grow in Carolina and Georgia ; per-
haps in the fpring and early fummer feafon, here
may be fome new plants, particularly in the high
forefls and ridges, at fome diftance from the ri-
ver : there is hov/ever growing in the rich high
lands, near on the banks of the river, which I ob-
ferved in the fettlement of Baton Rouge, an ar-
borefcent aromatic vine, which mounts to the tops
of the higheft trees, by twifting or writhing fpir-
ally round them ; fome of thefe vines are as
thick as a man's leg, of a foft fpungy texture,
and flexible, covered with a Cinnamon coloured
bark, which is highly aromatic or fpicy. The
large oblong leaves fit oppolite on the branches,
and are of a full deep green colour ; but its fea-
fon of flowering being paft, and the feed fcatter-
ed, I am entirely ignorant to what genus it be-
longs ; perhaps it is a non-defcript or new genus.
Here is likewlfe a new and beautiful fpecies of
Verbena, with decumbent branches and lacerat-
ed deep green leaves ; the branchcr. terminate
with corymbi of violet blue flowers : this pretty
])lant grov/s in old liclds where there is a good
foil.

The fevere diforder in my eyes fubverted the
])lan of my peregrinations, and contracted the
.ipan of my pilgrimage South-Weflward. This
difappointnient alFecled me very lenfibly, but re-
fi'-'naiion and rcafcn refuming their empire over

my

NORTH AMERICA. 435

my mind, 1 fubmitted, and determined to return to
Carolina.

Receiving information that the company's
fchooner was ready to fail for Mobile, I embarked
on board a trading boat for Manchac, where ar-
riving in the evening, I took leave next morning
of MelTrs. Swanfon and Co. and fet ofl' for the
forks of the Amite, and next day fet fail, de-
fcending the tardy current of the Amite. Ob-
fervlng two bears crofling the river a-head, though
our pieces were ready charged, and the yajvl along
fide to receive us, we purfued them in vain, they
fwam fwiftly acrofs and efcaped in the forefls on the
ifland of Orleans. The breeze dying away at even-
ing, we came to anchor, and had variety of amufe-
ments at filhing and fowling.

Next day, November 13th, 1777, with a fteady
leading breeze, entered and failed over the lake
Maurepas, and through the ftreights into the
Pontchartrain, and continued under fail ; but at
midnight, by keeping too near the Weft fliore,
we ran aground on a fand-bar, where we lay
beating the hard fandy bottom until morning,
and our yawl parting from us in the night, which
we never recovered, we were left to the mercy of
the winds and floods ; but before noon the wind
coming brifkly from North-Eaft, driving the fea
into the lake, we got off, made fail ?gain, and
before night palled through the Regullets, en-
tering the ocean through the bay of Pearls, fail-
inn^ rhroucrh the found betvixt Cat ifland and the
llrand of the continent ; pafling by the beautiful
bay St. Louis, into which defcend many delight-
ful rivers, which flow from the lower or maritime
fettlcmcnts of the Chaftaws or Flatheads. Con-
tinuing through the found between the oyfter
F f 3 banks

43^ TRAVELS IN

banks and flioals of Ship and Horn iflands, and
the high and bold coaft of Biloxi on the main, got
through the narrow pafs Aux Chriflians, and foon
came up abreaft of Ifle Dauphin, betwixt whofe
fhoals and the Wefl Cape of Mobile Bay we got
aground an fome funken oyllcr banks ; but next
day a brill: Southerly wind rarfed the fea on the
coaft, which lifted us oil" again, and fetting fail, we
(hot through the Pafs au Oieion, and entering the
bay, by night came to anchor fafe again at the city
of Mobile.

After having made up my colleclions of grow-
ing roots, feeds and curious fpecimens, left them
to the care of Meifrs. Swanfon and M'Gillavry,
to be forwarded to Dr. Fothergill of London. I
prepared to fet o£F again to Augufla in Georgia,
through the Creek Nation, the only practicable
"way of returning by Ian J, being fruilrated ol
purfuing my intended rout \vhich I had meditat-
ed, through the territories of the Siminoles or
Lower Creeks, they being a treacherous people,
lying fo far from the eye and controul of the na-
lion with whom they arc confederate, that there
had lately been depredations and murders com-
mitted by them at the bay of Apalache, on fome
families of white people who were migrating from
Georgia, with an intention of fecrllng on the
Mobile. Having to p?.f> the dluance of near
two hundred miles to the fu-il town of the na-
tion, through a folitary, uninhabited wilderncfs,
the bloody field of Schambe, where thofe con-
tending bands of Americcin bravos, Creeks and
Chaclaws, often meet in dire confllcl ; for the
better convenience and fecurity, I joined company
v.'idi a caravan of traders, now about fetting oif for
the nation.

Obferved

KORTH AMERICA. 437

Obferved growing In a garden in Mobile, two
large trees of the Juglans pecan, and the Diof-
corea bulbifcra : this lalt curious plant bears a large
kidney fliaped root, one, two or three iit the bofon\
of the leaves, feveral feet from the ground, as they
climb up poles or fupports fet by their roots j thefe
roots when boiled or roafted are efteemed a pleafant
wholefome food, and tafte like the ordinary Yam.

CHAP.

4^^ TRAVELS IN

CHAP. VIII.

November 27th, 1777, fat ofF from IMobilc,
in a large boat with the principal trader of the com-
pany, and at evening arrived at Taenfa, where
were the pack-horfemen with the merchandize, and
next morning as foon as we had our hories in readi-
nefs, I took my lait leave of Major Farmer, and left
Taenfa. Our caravan confided of between twenty
and thirty horfes, fixteen of which were loaded,
two pack-horfemen, and mvfelf, under the direction
of Pv'Ir. Tap — y the chief trader. One of our young
men was a Muiiee Creek, his mother being a Chac-
taw fiave, and his father a half breed, betwixt a
Creek and a white man. I loaded one horfe with
my effecls, fome prefents to the Indians, to enable
me to purchafe a frefn horfe, in cafe of neceflity ;
for my old trufty Have which had ferved me faith-
fully almoft three years, having carried me on his
back at leafl fix thoufand miles, was by this time
almoft worn out, and I expefted every hour he would
give up, efpecially after I found the manner of thefe
traders* travelling. They feldom decamp until the
fun is high and hot ; each one having a whip
made of the tougheft cow-fkin, they ftart all at
once, the horfes having ranged themfelves in re-
gula}: Indian file, the veteran in the van, and the
younger in the rear ; then the chief drives with
t'le crack of his whip, and a whoop or fhriek,
which rings through the forefts and plains, fpeaks
In Indian, comm.anding them to proceed, which
is repeated by all the company, when we ftart
at once^ keeping up a briik and conftant trot,

which

NORTH AMERICA. 439

'"which is inceffanrly urged and continued as lonor
^s the miferable creatures are able to move for-
ward ; and then come to camp, -though fre-
quently in the middle of the afternoon, which is
the pleafantefl: time of the day for travelling ;
and every horfe has a bell on, which being (lop-
ped when we Itart in the morning with a tvvift of
grafs or leaves, foon (hakes out, and they are
never (lopped again during the day. The con-
ftant ringing and clattering of the bells, fmack-
ing of the whips, whooping and too frequent
curfmg thefe miferable quadrupeds, caufe an in-
ceifant uproar and confufion, inexpreflibly difa-
greeable.

After three days travelling in this mad man-
ner, my old fcrvant was on the point oi giving
out, and feveral of the company's horfes were
tired, but were relieved of their burthens by the
led horfes which attended for that purpofe. I
was now driven to difiigreeable extremities, and
had no other alternative, but either to leave my
horfe in the woods, pay a very extravagant liire
for a doubtful piiflage to the Nation, or feparate
myfelf from my companions, and wait the reco-
very of my horfe alone : the chief gave me no
other com'brtabic ad^'ice in this dilemma, than
that, there was a company of traders on the road
a-head cf us from the Natjon, . to Mobile, who
had a large gang of led hoifes with them for fcile,
when they fiiould arrive ; and expedcd from the
advice which he had received at jMobile before
we fet off from thence, that this company mufl
be very near to us, and probably would be up
to-morrow, or at leaft in two or three days : and
this man condtfcended fo far as to moderate a
)iittlc his mode of travelling, th.u I might have a

char^ce

44® TRAVELS IN

chance of keeping up with them until the evening
or next day ; befides I had the comfort of obferving
that the tiaders and pack-horfemen carried them-
felves towards me with evident figns of humanity
and fficndfiiip, often expieiTmg fentiments of fym-
paihy, and faying I muft not be left alone to perifli
in the wiliernefs.

Although my apprehenfions on this occafion
were fomewhat tumultuous, lince there was little
hope, on the principle of reafon, fhould I be left
alone, of efcsping cruel captivity, and perhaps
being murdered by the Chaclaws (for the com-
pany of traders was my only fecurity, as the
fndians never attack the traders on the road, though
they be tradirg with nations at enmity with them)
yet I had fecret hopes of relief and deliverance, that
cheered me, and infpired confidence and peace of
mind.

,Novv I am come within the atmofphere of the
lilicium groves, how reanimating is the fra-
grance! every part of this plant above ground
poilelTes J^n aromatic fcent, but the large ILillated
pcricarpe is the moil fragrant part of it, which
continually perfpires an oleagenous fweat, as
warm and vivific as cloves or mace. I never faw
it grow naturally further North than Lat. 33°,
on the Mobile river and its branches, and but
one place in Eaft Florida near Lake George,
Lat. 28^.

About the middle of the afternoon, we were
joyfully furprifcd at the diftant profpedl of the
trading company coming up, and we foon met,
fainting each other feveral times with a general
Indian whoop, or fhout of friendfliip; then each
company came to camp v/ithin a few paces of

each

NORTH AMERICA. '" 44I

each other ; and before night I flruck up a bar-
gain with them for a handfome flrong young
horfe, which coll me about ten pounds flerhng.
1 was now conftrained to leave my old Have be-
hind, to feed in rich cane paftures, where he was
to remain and recruit until the return of his new
mafter from Mobile ; from whom I extorted a
.promife to ufe him gently, and if poffible, not to
make a pack- horfe of him.

Next morning we decamped, proceeding again
on my travels, now alert and cheerful. Croffed a
brifk rivulet ripling over a gravelly bed, and
winding through aromatic groves of the lUiciuni
Floridanum, then gently defcendcd to the high
iorefts, leaving Deadman's creek, for at this creek
a white man was found dead, fuppofed to have
been murdered, from which circumitancc it has its
name.

A few days before we arrived at the Nation, we
met a company of emigrants from Georgia ; a
man, his wife, a young vi'oman, feveral young
children, and three Itout young men, with about
a dozen horlcs loaded with their property. They
informed us their defign was to fettle on the
Alabama, a few miles above the confluence of the
lombigbe.

Being now near the Nation, the chief trader
with another of our company fat off a-head for
his town, to give notice to the Nation, as lie faid,
of his approach with the merchandize, each of
rhcm taking the bed horfe they could pick out
of the gang, leaving the goods to the condu£t
■ and care ol the young Muflee and myfelf. Karly
iu th«2 evening we came to the banks of a large
dt-'ep creek, a conlkleiable branch of the Ala-
bama :

44'^ TRAVELS IN

bama : the waters ran furioufly, being over-
charged with the floods of rain which had fallen
the day before. We difcovered immediately that
there was no poffibility of crofhng it by fording ;
its depth and rapidity would have fwept our
horfes, loads and all, inftantly froni our fight :
my companion, after confideration, faid we mufl:
make a raft to ferry over our goods, which we
immediately fet about, after unloading our horfes
and turning them out to range. I undertook to
colled dry canes, and rny companion, dry timber
or logs and vines to bind them together : having
gathered the neceffary materials, and laid them
in order on the brinks of the river, ready to work
upon, we betook ourfclves to repofe, and early
next morning fat about building our raft. This
was a novel fcenc to me, and I could not, until
finiflied and put to practice, well comprehend
how it could pofTibly anfwer the eft'ecl defired.
In the firft place we laid, parallel to each other,
dry, found trunks of trees, about nine feet in
length, and eight or nine inches diameter ; which
binding faft together with grape vines and withs,
until we had formed this firft floor, about twelve
or fourteen feet in length, we then bound the
dry canes in bundles, each near as thick as a
man's body, with which we formed the upper
ilratum, laying them clofe by the fide of each
other and binding them faft : after this manner
our raft was conftrufted. Then having two
ftrong grape vines, each long enough to crofs
the river, we faftened one to each end of the
raft ; which now being completed, and loading
qn as much as it v^^ould fafely carry, the Indian
took the end of one of the vines in his mouth,
plunged into the river and fwam over with it, and
the vine fixed to the other end was committed to

mv

NORTH AMERICA. 443

my charge, to fteady the raft and haul it back
again after being unloaded. As foon as he had
fafe landed and hauled taught his vine, I pufhed
ofF the raft, which he drew over as quick as pof-
fible, I fteady ing it with my vine : in this man-
ner, though with inexprefiible danger of lofmg
our eft'efts, we ferried all fafe over. The laft
load, with other articles, contained my property,
with all my clothes, which I ftripped off, except
my breeches, for they contained matters of more
value and confequence than all the reft of my pro-
perty put together; befides Idid not choofe to ex-
pofe myfelf entirely naked to the alligators and
ferpents in crofling the flood. Now feeing all the
goods fafe over, and the horfes at a landing place
on the banks of the liver about fifty yards above,
I drove them all in together, when, feeing therii
fafe landed, I plunged in after them, and being a
tolerable fwimmer, loon reached the oppofite fliore.
But my difficulties at this place were not yet at an
end, for our horfes all landed juft below the mouth
of a confiderable branch of this river, of fifteen
or twenty feet width, and its perpendicular banks
almoft as many feet in height above its fwift wa-
ters, over which we were obliged to carry every
arlicle of our effe^LS, and this by no other bridge
than a fapling felled acrofs it, which is called a
raccoon bridge; and over this my Indian fiiend
would trip as quick and light as that quadruped,
Avith one hundred weight of leather on his back,
when I was fcarcely able to ftiufRe myfelf along
over it aftride. At laft having re-packed and fat
off again, without any material occurrence inter-
vening, m the evening we arrived at the banks
of the great Tallnpoofe river, and came to camp
uhder (heUer of feme Indian cabins, in expanfive

fields,

444 TRAVELS IN

fields, clofe to the river bank, oppofite the town
of Savannuca. I.ate in the evening a young white
man, in great halle and feeming confufion, joined
our camp, who immediately related, that being on
his journey from Penfacola, it happened that the
very night after we had palled the company of
emigrants, he met them and joined their camp in
the evening ; when, juft at dark, the Chaftaws
furrounded them, plundered their camp, and car-
ried all the people off captive, except himfelf, he
having the good fortune to efcape with his horfe,
though clofely purfued.

Next niorning very early, though very cold and
the furface of the earth as hoary as if covered with
a fall of fnow, the trader ftanding on the oppofite
^ore entirely naked, except a breech-cl®ut, and
encircled by a company of red men in the like
habit, hailed us, and prefently, with canoes,
brought us all over with the merchandize, and con-
ducted us fafe to the town of MucclafTe, a mile or
two diflant.

The next day was a day of reft and audience :
the following was devoted to feafting, and the
evening concluded in celebrating the nuptials of
the young Muftee with a Creek girl of Muc-
clafTe, daughter of the chief and filler to our
Ttader's wife. The trader's houfe and (lores
formed a-^omplete fquare, after the mode of the
habitations of the Mufcogulges, that is, four
oblong buildings of equal dimenfions, two op-
pofite to each other, encompa fling an area of
about a quarter of an acre ; on one fide of this a
fence enclofed a yard of near an acre of ground,
at one of the farther corners of which a booth or
pavilion was formed of green boughs, having
two Laurel trees planted in front (Magnolia

grandi-

NORTH AMERICA. 445

prandiflora). This was the fecret nuptial cham-
ber. Dancing, mufic and feading coniinued the
forepart ot" the night, and towards morning the
happy couple privately withdrew, and continued
alone all the next day, no one prefuming to ap-
proach the facrcd, mylterious thalame.

The trader obliged me with his company on a
vifit to the Alabama, an Indian town at the con-
iiuence of the two fine rivers, the Tallapoofe and
Coofau, which here refign their names to the
great Alabama, where are to be fecn traces of the
ancient French fortrefs, Thoulou'fe ; here are yec
lying, half buried in the earth, a few pieces of
ordnance, four and fix pounders. I obftrved, in a
very thriving condition, two or three very large
apple trees, planted here by the French. This is,
perhaps, one of the moft eligible fituations for a
city in the world ; a level plain between the con-
flux of two majeilic river?, which are exactly of
equal magnitude in appearance, each navigable for
veflels and periauguas at Icafl five hundred miles
above it, aitd fpreading their numerous branches
over the mofl fertile and delightful regions, many
hundred miles before we reach their fources in the
Apalachean mountains.

Stayed all night at Alabama, whcrs we had a
grand entertainment at the public fquare, v\ith
mufic and dancing, and returned next day to
Mucclafie; where being inlornied of a companv
of traders about .fetting olT from Tuckabatche for
Augulla, I made a vifit to that town to Icncw thf^
truth of it, but on my arrival there they were
gone; but being informed of another caravan
who w,;rc to Hart from the Ottafib tov.n in (v.-o

or

44^ TRAVELS IN

or three weeks time, I returned to MucclalTe in
order to prepare for my departure.

On my arrival, I was not a little furprifed at a
tragical revolution in the family of my friend the
trader, his (tores fnut up, and guarded by a party
of Indians : in a few minutes however, the whole
affair was related to me. It appeared that this
fon of Adonis, had been detefted in an amorous
intrigue, with the wife of a young chief, the day
after his arrival : the chief was out on a hunt,
but arrived next day ; and upon information of
the affair, the fa£t being confirmed, he with his
friends and kindred refolved to exaft legal fatis-
fadlion, Vvhich in this cafe is cutting off both ears
of the delinquent, clofe to the head, which is
called cropping. This being determined upon,
he took the moll fecret and effedual methods to
effect his purpole. About a dozen -young Indian
fellows, condudcd by their chief (the injured
hufbarid), having provided and armed themi'elves
with knotty cudgels of green Hiccory, which they
concealed imdcr their mantles, in the dufk of the
evening paid a pretended friendly vifit to the trader
at his own houfe, when the chief feigning a pri-
vate matter of bufniefs, took him afide in the yard ;
then wliiilling through his fingers (the fignal pre-
concerted) he was inflantly furrounded, knocked
down, and then frripped to his ikin, and beaten
with their knotty bludgeons ; however he had the
fubtilty to feign himfcif fpeechlefs before they
really killed him, which he luppofed was their in-
tention: when he had now lain for dead, the exe-
cutioner drew out his knife with an intention of
taking off his cars : this fmall refpite gave hlni
time to refleft a little ; when he initanily fprang up,

ran

NORTH AMERICA.

4^7

ran ofF, leaped the fence, and had the good fortune
to get into a dark fwamp, overgrown with vines
and thickets, where he miiaculoufly eluded the
earneft refearches of his enemies, and finally made
a fafe retreat to the houfe of his father-in-lav/, the
chief of the town, throwing himfelf under his
protection, who gave liis word that he would do
him all the favour that lay in his power. This
account I had from his own mouth, for hearing
of my return, the next morning after my arrival,
he fent a trufty melfenger, by whom I found
means of accefs to him. He farther informed me,
that there had been a council of the chiefs of the
town convened, to deliberate on the alVair, and
their final determination was that he mull lofe his
ears, or forfeit all his goods, which amounted to
upwards of one thoufand pounds Iterling, and even
that forfeiture would not fave his ears, unlefs Mr.
Golphin interpofed in his behalf; and after all, the
injured Indian declares that he will have his life. He
entreated me with tears to make vv^hat fpeed I could
to Silver BlulT, reprefent his dangerous fituation to
Mr. Golphin, and folicit that gentleman's moll
fpeedy and elfeclual interference ; which I affured
him I would undertake.

Now having all things prepared for my depar-
ture, early in the morning, after taking leave of
my dillrefled friend the trader of Mucclalfe, I
fat off'; paffed tlirough continued plantations
and Indian towns on my way up the Taliapoofe
river, being every where treated by the inhabitants
with marks of fricndfliip, e\f;n as though I had
been their countryman and relation. Called
by the way at the beautiful town cf Coolome,

whevc

448 TRAVELS IN

where I tarried fome time with Mr. Germany
the chief trader of the town, an elderly gentle-
man, but aclive, cheerful and very agreeable, who
received and treated me with the utmoll civility and
friendfliip : his wife is a Creek woman, of a very
amiable and worthy chara(^ter and difpofition, in-
duffrious, prudent and atVoclionate ; and by her he
had feveral children, whom he is defirous to fend
to Savanna or Charleilon, for their education, but
cannot prevail on his wife to confent to it : this
affair atfecls him verv fcnfibly, for he has accumu-
hited a pretty fortune by his induiiry and commend-
able conduct.

Leaving Cooiorne, I re-croffed the river at
Tuccabache, an ancient and large town ; thence
continued up the river, and at evening arrived at
Attafie, where I continued near a week, waiting
the prepaiations of the traders, with whom I was
to join in company to Auguda.

The next day after my arrival, I was introduced
to the ancient chiefs, at the public fquare or
areopagiis ; and in the evening, in company with
ihe traders, who are numerous in this town, re-
paired to the great rotunda, where were jafTembled
the greatelL number of ancient venerable chiefs
and v;arrit)rs that I had ever beheld : we fpent the
evening and greater part of the night together, in
drinking Cafline and nnoking Tobacco. The great
council houfe or rotunda is appropriated to much
the fame purpofe as the public fquare, but more
private, and feems pp.rticularly dedicated to poli-
tical aif'airs ; women and youtli are never admitted j
and I fuppofe it is death for a female to prefume to
enter tlie door, or approach within its pale. It is a
vail ccnicrd building or circular dome, capable of

accommo-

NORTH AMERICA.

449

accommodating many hundred people ; conftriuT:-
ed and furniihed within, e>:aftly in the fame man-
ner as thofe of the Chcrokees aheady defcribed,
but much larger than any ! had feen of them : there
are people appointed to take care of it, to have iL
daily fwept clean, and to provide cancb for fuel, or
to give light.

As their virgils and manner of conducing their
vefpers and myllical fire in this rotunda, are ex-
tremely fingular, and altogether dilFerent from
the cufloms and ufages of any other peoole, I
fliall proceed to defcribe them. In the fir(t place,
the governor or officer who has the management
of this bufmefs, with his fervants attending, or-
ders the black drink to be brewed, which is a
decoftion or infufion of the leaves and tender
fhoots of the Calfme : this is done under an open
(lied or pavillion, at twenty or thirty yards dif-
tance, diredly oppofite the door of the council-
houfe. Next he orders bundles of dry canes to
be brought in : thele are previoufly fplit and
broken in pieces to about the length of two feet,
and then placed obliquely crofl'ways upon one
another on the floor, forming a fpiral circle
round about the great centre pillar, rifmg to a
foot; or eighteen inches in height from the
ground ; and this circle fpreading as it proceeds
round and ror.nd, often repeated from right to
left, every revolution encreafes its diameter, and
at length extends to the diflancc of ten or twelve
feet from the centre, more or lefs, according to
the length of time the aifembly or meeting is to
continue. By the time thefe preparations are
accompliflied, it is night, and the aifembly have
taken their feats in order. The exterior extre-
mity or outer end of the fpiral circle takes fire

G g and

450 TRAVELS IN

and immediately rifes into a bright flame (but
how this is effected I did not plainly apprehend ;
I faw no perfon fet fire to it j there might have
been fire left on the earth, however I neither faw
nor fmelt fire or fmoke until the blaze inftantly
afcended upwards), which gradually and flowly
creeps round the centre pillar, with the courfe of
the fun, feeding on the dry canes, and affords a
cheerful, gentle and fufiicient light until the
circle is confumed, when the council breaks up.
Soon after this illumination takes place, the aged
chiefs and warriors are feated on their cabins or
fophas on the i\de of the houfe oppofite the
door, in three claffes or ranks, rifing a little, one
above or behind the other ; and the white peo-
ple and red people of confederate towns in the
like order on the left hand ; a tranfverfe range
of pillars, fupporting a thin clay wall about
breafl high, feparating them : the king's cabin
or feat is in front ; the next to the back of it the
head wairiors ; and the third or lafl accommo-
dates the young warriors, &c. The great war
chief's feat or place is on the fame cabin with,
and immediately to the left hand of the king,
and next to the white people ; and to the right
hand of the mico or king the rnoft venerable
head-men and warriors are feated. The affcmbly
being now feated in order, and the houfe illu-
minated, two middle aged men, who perform the
oflice of flaves or fervants, pro tempore, come in
together at the door, each having very large
conch fliells full of bhick drink, and advance
with flow, uniform and fteady fteps, their eyes or
countenances lifted up, hnging very low but
fv.eetly ; tbey come within fix or eight paces of
the king's and white people's cabins, when they
Jtop together, and each relts his fliell on a tripos

or

NORTH AMERICA.

45'

I

or little table, but prefently takes it up a_c;ain,
and, bowing very low, advance^ obfequiouilv,
crofling or interfe»fling each other about mid-
way : he who refled his fhell before the white
people now (lands before the king, and the oUier
who flopped before the king ftands before the
white people ; when each prefents his fiiell, one
to the king and the other to the chief of the
white people, and as foon as he raifes it to his
mouth, the llave utters or fings two notes, each
of which continues as long as he has breath ;
and as long as thefe notes continue, fo long mufl
the perfon drink or at lea(t keep the {hell to his
mouth. Thefe two long notes are very folemn,
and at once flrike the imagination with a reli-
gious awe or homage to the Supreme, founding
ibmewhat like a-hoo — ojah and a-lu — vah. Aft(^
this manner the whole affcmbly are treated, as
long as the drink and Hght continue to hold out ;
and as foon as the drinking begins, tobacco and
pipes are brought. The fkin of a wild cat or
young tyger Ituft'ed with tobacco is brought,
and laid at the king's feet, with the great or royal
pipe beautifully adorned ; the Ikin is ufually of
the animals of the king's family or tribe, as the
wild-cat, otter, bear, ratrle-fnake, ^c. A fkin
of tobacco is likewife brought and cad at the
feet of the white chief of the town, and from him
it pafTes from one to another to fill their pipes
from, though each perfon has bcfides his own
peculiar fkin of tobacco. The king or chief
fmokes firfl in the great pipe a few whiffs, blow-
ing it off" ceremonioufly, firfl towards the fun, or
as it is gt;nerally fuppofed to the Great Spirit, for
it is puffed upwards, next towards the four car-
dinal points, then towards the white people in
the houfe ; then the great pipe is taken from the

G g 2 hand

452 TRAVELS IN

hand of the mico by a flavc, and prefented to the
chief white man, and then to the great war chief,
whence it circulates through the rank of head men
and warriors, then returns to the king. After this
each one fills his pipe from his own or his neigh-
bour's flvin.

The great or public fquare generally ^ftands
alone, in the centre and higheft part of the
town : it confifts of four-fquare or cubical build-
ings, or houfes of one flory, uniform, and of the
fame dimenfions, lb ficuated as to form an exaft
tetragon, enccm'painng an area of half an acre of
ground, more or lefs, according to the ftrength
or largenefs of the town, or will of the inhabi-
tants : there is a paiTage or avenue at each corner
of equal width : each building is condrucied of
a w'ooden frame fixed ftrongly in the earth, the
w-alis filled in, and neatly plaiftcred with clay
mortar ; clofe on three fides, that is the back and
fvvo ends, except within about two feet of the
wall plate or eves, which is left open for the pur-
pofe of a window and to admit a free pafTage of
the air ; the front or fide next to the area is quite
open like a piazza. One of tbefe buildings is
properly ' the council houfe, where the mico,
chiefs, and warriors, with the citizens who have
bufinefs, or choofe to repair thither, alfemble
every day in council, to hear, decide and redify
all grievances, complaints and contentions, arif-
ing betwixt the cilizens ; give audience to am-
baifadors, and fh-angers ; hear news and talks
from confederate towns, allies or difiant nations j
confult about the particular affairs of the town,
as creeling habitations for new citizens, or efla-
bliflnn,:^ young families, concernmg agriculture,
kc. This building is fomev/Iiat different from

the

NORTH AMERICA. 453

the Other three : it is clofely fliut up on three
fides, that is, the back and two ends, and
befides, a partition wall longitudinally from end
to end divides it into two apartments, the back
part totally dark, only three fmall arched aper-
tures or holes . opening into it from the front
apartment or piazza, and little larger than juft to
admit a man to crawl in upon his hands and
knees. This fecluded place appears to mc to be
defigned as a fancluary * dedicated to religion,
or nther pricil craft; for here are depofited all
the facred things, as the phyfic pot, rattles, chap-
lets of deer's fioofs and other apparatus of con-
juration ; and likcv^-ife the calumet or great pip-n
of peace, the imperial llandard, or eagle's tail,
which is made of the feathers of the white eagle's
tail I curiouily formed and difplayed like an
open fan on a iceptrc or flaff, as white and clean
as pofTible when difplayed for peace, but when
for war, the feathers are painted or tinged with
Vermillion. The piazza or front of this building,
is equally divided into three apartments, by two
iranfvcrfe walls or partitions, about breaft high,
each having three orders or ranges of feats or ca-
bins Pepping, one above and behind the other,
which accommcdatc the fenate and audience, in
the like order as obfervcd in the rotunda. The
other three buildings which compofe the fqiiare,
are alike furnifiied Y»irh three ranges of cabins or
fophas, and ferve for a banqueting-houfe, to
ilieller and accommodate the audience and fpec-
tiitcrs at all times, particularly at feails or public
entertainments, where all clalTes of citizens refort

* Saiidorium or facred temple; a:icl it is fdi.\ t; ht cfcath for any rt-i--
fon bur the niico, wiir-chiof and high pricft to cr.tcr in, and none arc ad-
mitted but by pcrmiflicn of the priefts, who jjuurd it day and night.
+ Vultur fi'.cra.

day

454 TRAVELS IN

day and night in the fummcr or moderate feafon ;
the children and females however are feldoni or
never feen in the public fquare.

The pillars and walls of the houfes of the
fquare are decorated with various paintings and
fculptures ; which I fuppofe to be hieroglyphic,
and as an hiftoric legendary of political and fa-
cerdotal affairs : but they are extremely piclu-
refque or caricature, as men in variety of atti-
tudes, fome ludicrous enough, others having the
head of fome kind of animal, as thofe of a duck,
turkey, bear, fox, wolf, buck, kc. and again
thofe kind of creatures are reprefented having
the human head. Thefe dcfigns are not ill exe-
cuted ; the outlines bold, free and w-ell propor-
tioned. The pillars fuppcrting the front or piazza
of the council-houfe of the fquare. are ingeni-
cufly formed in the likencfs of vaft fpeckled fer-
pents, afcending upwards ; the Ottaffes being of
the fnake family or tribe. At this time the tovvn
was falling, taking medicine, and I think I may
fay praying, to avert a grievous calamity of fick-
ncfs, which had lately afflicted them, and laid in
the grave abundance of their citizens. They fafi
feven or eight days, during which time they eat
or drink nothing but a meagre gruel, made of a
little corn-flour and w-atcr ; taking at the fame time
by way of medicine or phyfic, a flrong decoclion ol
the roots of the Iris vcrficclor, which is a powerful
carthartic : they hold this root in high eflimation,
every town cultivates a little plantation of it, having
a large artificial pond, juft without the town,
planted and almofl overgrow'n with it, where they
yfually dig clay for pottery, and mortar and plafter
for their buildings, and I obferved where they had
lately been digging up this rcot.

In

NORTH AMERICA. 455

In the midil of a large oblong fquare adjoin-
ing this town (which was furrounded with a low
bank or terrace) is (landing a high pillar, round
like a pin or needle ; it is about forty feet in
height, and between two and three feet in dia-
meter at the earth, gradually tapering upwards
to a point ; it is one piece of pine wood, and
arifes from the centre of a low, circular, artificial
hill, but it leans a httle to one fide. 1 inquired
of the Indians and traders what it was defigned
for, who anfwered they knew not : the Indians
faid that their anceftors found it in the fame
fituation, when they firll arrived and ponTeiTed
the country, adding, that the red men or Indians,
then the pollellbrs, whom they vanquilhcd, were
rs ignorant as themfelves concerning it, faying
that their anceftors likewife found it (landing fo.
This monument, fimple as it is, may be worthy
the obfervations of a traveller, llnce it naturally
excites at leaft the following queries : for what
purpofe was it defigned ? its great antliuity and
incorruptibility — v^^hat method or machines they
employed to bring it to the fpot, and how they
raifed it erecl ? There is no tree or fpccies of the
pine, whofe wood, i. e. i^o large a portion of the
trunk, is fuppofcd to be incorruptible, expofed
in the open air to all weathers, but the long-
leaved Pine (Pin paluftris), and there is none
growing within twelve or fifteen miles of this
place, that tree being naturally produced only
on the high, dry, barren ridges, where there is
a fandy foil and graify wet favannas. A great
number of men uniting their (Irength, prgbably
carried it to the place on handfpikes, or feme fuch
contrivance.

On the Sabbath day before I fet off from this
place, 1 could not help obfcrving the folemnity

of

45^ TRAVELS IN

of the town, the filence and the retirednefs of the
red inhabitants ; but a very few of them were to be
fecn, the doors of their dweUings fliut, and if a child
chanced to ilray out, it was quickly drawn in doors
again. I afked the meaning of this, and was imme-
diately anfwered, that it being the white people's
beloved day or Sabbath, the Indians kept it religi-
oufly facred to the Great fpirit.

Lafb night was clear and cold, wind North
Weft, and this nioming,, January 2d, 1788, the
face of the earth wa^ perfedlly white with a
beautiful fparkling froft. Sat off for Augufta
with a company of traders, four men with about
thirty horfes, twenty of which ^^'ere loaded with
leather and furs, each pack or load fuppofed to
weigh one hundred and fifty pounds upon an
average. In three days we arrived at the Apa-
lachuda or Chata Uche river ; croffed at the point
towns Chehaw and Ufleta : thefc towns almoft
join each other, yet fpeak two languages, as ra-
dically different perhaps as the Mufcogulge's and
Chinefe. After leaving the river we met with
nothing material, or worth particular obferva-
tion, until our arrival at Oakmulge, towards
evening, where we encamped in expanfive ancient
Indian fields, in view of the foaming flood of the
river, now raging over its banks. Here were two
companies of traders from Augufta, bound to the
Nation, confifting of fifteen or twenty men, with
feventy or eighty horfes, m.oft of which had their
loads of merchandize : they crolfed the river this
morning and loft fix horfes in the attempt j they
were drowned, being entangled in the vines un-
der water at landing. But the river now falling
^'^ain, we were in hopes that 'by ne^t morning

th?

NORTH AMERICA. 457

the waters would be again confined within the
banks. We immediately fat about rigging our port-
able leather boat, about eight feet long, which was
of thick foal leather, folded up and carried on the
top of a pack of deer-ikins. The people foon got
her rigged, which was cfFeifted after the following
manner. We, in the firfh place, cut down a White-
Oak fapling, and by notching this at each end,
bent it up, which formed the keel. Item and ftern
pofl: of one piece ; this was placed in the bottom of
the boat, and pretty flrong hoop-poles being fixed
in the bottom iicrofs the keel, turning up their ends,
expanded the hull of the boat, which being faft-
encd by thongs to two other poles bent round, the
outlide of the rim formed the gunwhales : thus in
an hour's time cur bark was rigged, to which
afterwards we added two little oars or fculls. Our
boat being now in readinefs, and our horfes turned
out to paflure, each one rerired to repofe, or to
fuch exercife as mod effectually contributed to di-
vert the miud. I was at this time rather dejefted,
and fought comfort in retirement, turning my
courfe to the expanfive fields, fragrant groves and
fublime forefls. Returned to camp by dufk, v.here
I found my companions cheerful and thoughtlefs
rather to an extreme. It was a calm dill evening
and warm ; the wood-cock (fcolopax) chirruping
high up in the air, gently defcends by a fpiral cir-
cular tract, and alights on the humid plain : this
bird appears in Pennfylvania early in the fprino-,
when the Elm and Maple begin to rlower ; and
here the fcarlct Maple, Elm and Elder began to
fliow their flowers ; the yellow jafmin was jufl:
ready to open its fragrant golden blofibms, and the
gay Azalea alfo preparing toexpand its beauties.

The

45^ ^TRAVELS IN

The morning cool and pleafant : after recon-
noitering the fhorcs of the rivers, and confulting
with our brethren in didrefs, uho had not yet
decamped, relolving to (lay and lend their a/lifl:-
ance in pafling over tiiis rapid gnlph, we w^ere
encouraged to proceed ; and launching our bark
into the raging flood, after many fuccefsful trips
ferried over all the goods, then drove in our horfes
altogether, and had the pleafure of feeing them all
fafely landed on the oppofite fliore ; and laftly I
embarked with three of our people, and feveral
packs of leather ; we then put off from fliore, bid-
ding adieu to our generous friends left behind,
who re-echoed our fhouts upon our fafe landing.
We proceeded again, crofl'ed the Oconne in the
fame manner, and with the like fuccefs, and came
to camp in the fertile fields, on the banks of that
beautiful river ; and proceeding thence next day,
in the evening came to camp on the waters of great
Ogeche. The following day, after croffing feveral
of its confiderable branches, came to camp; and
next day crolTed the main branch ot that famous
river, W'hich being wide and very rapid proved dif-
ficuh and dangerous fording ; yet we croflTed with-
out any lofs, but fome of our pack-horfes were
badly bruifed, being fwept olf their feet and dafhed
?gainfl the rocks, my horfe too being carried away
with the current, and plunging off funken flielving
rocks into deep holes, I got very wet, but I kept
my feat and landed fafe : however I fuffered much,
it being a cold freezing day. We came to camp
early, and raifing great fires with Pine knots and
other wood, we dried ourfelves and kept warm
during the long night, and after two days more
hard travelling we arrived at Augufla.

Being

NORTH AMERICA. 459'

Belng under a necefiity of makintj; two or three
days flay here, in order to refit ir.yfclf, for by ihis
time my flock of cloaths was emircly worn out, I
took this opportunity of vifiting my fiiend doctor
Wells at his plantations near the city. And now
being again new clothed and furniflicd with a toler-
able Indian poney, 1 took leave of my hoil and pre-
pared to depart for Savanna.

Soon after I left Augufla, proceeding for Sa-
vanna, the capital, a gentleman overtook me on
the road, who was a native of Ireland, and had
lately arrived in this part of America with a view
of fettling a plantation in Georgia, particularly
for the culture of thofe very ufeful fruits and ve-
getables that are cultivated up the Mediterranean,
and which fo largely contribute towards fupport-
ing that lucrative branch of commerce, the Le-
vant trade, viz. Vitis vinifera, for wine, Vitis
Corinthiaca, for Currants, Vitis Allobrogica, for
Raifms, OUves, Figs, Morus, for feeding filk-
worms, Amygdalus communis, Piiiachia, Cap-
paris. Citrus aurantium. Citrus limon. Citrus
verrucofa, the great fvvect fcented Citron, &;c.
He was very ingenious, defirous of information,
and as liberal and free of communicating his own
acquifitions and difcoveries in ufeful fcience, and
confequently a very agreeable companion. On
our journey down wc flopped a while to refl and
refrelh ouifelves at the Great Springs, near the
road, on our left hand, about midway between
Augufla and Savanna. This amazing fountain
of tranfpareiit cool water, breaks fuddenly out of
the earth, at the bafis of a moderately elevated
hill or bank, forming at once a bafon near twenty
yards over, afcending through a horizontal bed
of foft rocks, of a heterogeneous compofition,

chiefly

460 TRAVELS IN

chiefly a teftaceous concretion of broken, entire
and pulverifed fea fhells, fand, &c. conftituting
a coarfe kind of lime-flone. The ebullition is
copious, active and continual, over the ragged
apertures in the rocks, which lie fevcn or eight
feec below, fuelling the furface confiderably im-
mediately above it. The waters defcend iwiftly
from the fountain, forming at once a large brook,
fix or eight yards over, and five or fix feet deep.
There are multitudes of fiflr in the fountain, of
various tribes, chiefly the feveral fpecies of
bream, trout, cat-fifh and garr : it was amufmg to
behold the fifli continually afcending and defcend-
ing through the rocky apertures. Obferved that
we croli'ed no flream or brook of water within
twelve or fifteen miles of this fountain, but had in
view vaft favannas, fwamps and Cane meadows, at
no p^rcat diftance from our road, on our right hand,
which we may prefume were the refources or refer-
voirs which contributed to the fupplies of this de-
lightful grotto. Here were growing on the afcents
from the fountain, Magnolia grandiflora, Laurus
Borbonia, Quercus fempervirens, Callicarpa ; at a.
little diftance, a grove of the CaiTme ; and in an
old field, jnd by, are to be feen fome fmall Indian
mounts. We travelled feveral miles over ridges of
low^ fwelllng hills, whofe furfaces v/ere covered wjth
particoloured pebbles, ftreaked and clouded with
red, white, brown and yellow : they were moftly
broken or fliivered to pieces, I believe by the
ancients In forming arrcv/ heads, darts, knives,
&'c. for I obferved frequently fome of thefe mis-,
lliapcn implements amongft them, fome broken and
others fpoiled in the making. Thefe ftones feemed
to be a fpecies of jafper or agate.

On

NORTH AMERICA.

461

On my way down I alfo called at Silver Bluff,
and waited on the honourable G. Golphin, Efq.
to acknowledge my obligations to him, and like-
wife to fulfd my engagements on the part of Mr.

T y, trader of Mucclafle. Pvlr. Golphin af-

fured me that he was in a difagreeable predicament,
and that he feared the word, but faid he would do
all in his power to fave him.

After five days pleafant travelling we arrived at
Savanna in good health.

Lift of the towns and tribes In league, and
which conftitute the powerful confederacy or em-
pire of the Creeks or Mufcogulges.

Towns on the Taliapoofe or Oakfufke river, viz.
Oakfuflic, upper.
Oakfufkc, lower.
Ufale, upper.
Ufale, lower.
Sokafpogc.
Tallafe, great.
Coolome.
Ghuaciahatchc.^
Otaffc.
Cliiale.
Fufahatche.
Tuccabatche.
Cunhutke.
Mucclafle.
Alabama.
Savannuca.
VVhittumkc.
Coofauda.

Thefe fpeak the Mufco-
>gulge or Creek tongue, call-
ed the Alothcr tongue.

Speak the Stincard tongue.

Speak the Uche tongue.
? Speak the Stincard tongue.

Towns on the CooCiu river, viz.
Abacoochc. Speaks a diale6t of Chicafaw.

PocontallahafTe. ^ r t .u at r i

Hiccory ground, (traders > \^^^^^^ = =>

name). ) ^

Natche. Speaks Mufcog. and Chicafaw.

Towns

.\6:

TRAVELS IN-

Towns on the branches of the Coofau liver, vi/..

Wiccakaw.

Fillj^pond, traders name. ^ g^^^j^ ^^^ Mufcogulge

ir- r ^' \ tongue.

Towns on the Apalachucia or Chata Uche river, viz.
Apalachucla.
Tucpaufka.
Chockeclucca.
Chata Uche.
Checlucca-ninne.
Hothletega.
Coweta.
UlTeta.
Uche.
Hoofeche.
Chehaw.
Echeta.
Occonne.
Svvaglaw, great.
Swaglaw, little.

Towns on Flint

I

I Speaking the Mufcogulge
j tongue.

I

J

Speaks the Savannuca tongue.
Speaks the Mufcog. tongue.

1

b>Speak the Stincard.

liver, comprehending the Siminolcs or
Lower Creeks.
Suola-nocha.
Cufcowilla or Allachua.
Talahafochte.
Caioofahatche.
— — Great ifland. Traders name.

Great hammock. Traders name.

Capon. Traders name.

St, Mark's. Traders name.

— —Forks. Traders name.

With many others of lefs note.

The Simlnoles fpeak both the Mufcogulge and
Stincard tongues.

In all fifty-five towns, befides many villages
not enumerated ; and reckoning two hundred
inhabitants to each town on an average, which

ia

NORTH AMERICA. 4CJ

is a moderate computation, would ^ive eleven
thoufand inhabitants.

It appears to me pretty clearly, from clivers
circumllanccs, that this powerful empirt: or con-
federacy of the Creeks or Mufcogulges, arofe
from, and eflablilhed itfelf upon, ihe luius of
that of the Natches, agreeably to monficur Du-
prat. According to the Mufcogulges account of
themfelvcs, they arrived from the South-Weft,
beyond the Millifiippi, fome time before the Eng-
iiih fettled the colony of Carolina, and built Char-
left on ; and their ftory concerning :heir country
and people, from whence they fprang-, the caule of
leaving their native land, the progrels of their mi-
gration, 5:c. is very limilar to that celebrated
hiftorian's account of the Natches. They might
have been included as allies and confederates in that
vaft and powerful empire of red men. The Muf-
cogulges gradually pu(hing and extending their fet-
tlements on their North-Eafl border, until the dif-
folution of the Natches empire ; being then the
moft numerous, warlike and powerful tribe, they
began to fubj agate the various tribes or bands
which formerly conftituted the Natches, and unit-
ing them with themfelvcs, formed a new confede-
racy under the name of the jNIufcogulges.

The IMufcogulge tongue is now the national or
fovereign language : thofe of the Chicafaws, Chac-
taws, and even the remains of the Narches, if we
are to credit the Creeks and traders, being dialects
of the Mufcogulge : and probably, when the
Natches were fovereigns, they called their own the
national tongue, and the Crseks, Chicafaws, &c.
only dialects of theirs. It is uncertain which is
reallv them other tongue.

As

4^4 TRAVELS IN

As for tliofe numerous remnant bands or tribes,
included at this day within the Mufcogulge confe-
deracy, who generally fpeak the Stincard language,
(which is radically different from the Mufcogulge)
they are, beyond a doubt, the fhattered remains of
the various nations who inhabited the lower or ma-
ritime parts of Carolina and Florida, from Cape
Fear, Weft to the Miffiffippi. The language of
the Uches and Savannucas is a third radically dif-
ferent from the Mufcogulge and Stincard, and feems
to be a more Northern tongue ; I fuppofe a lan-
guage that prevailed amongfl: the numerous tribes
who formerly poffefled and inhabited the maritime
parts of Maryland and Virginia. I was told by an
old trader that the Savannucas and Shawanefe fpeak
the fame language, or very near alike.

CPIAP.

NORTH AMERICA. 46^

C H A P. IX.

After my return from the Creek nation, 1 em-
ployed myfelf during the fprlng and fore part of
fummer, in rcviliting the feveral diftrids in Geor-
gia and the Eall borders of Florida, where I had
noted the mod- curious fubjetSIs ; colleding them
together, and Hiipping them off to England. In
the courfc of thefe excurfions and refearches, I had
the opportunity of obferving the new flowering
flirub, refembling the Gordonia*, in perfe*^: bloom
as well as bearing ripe fruit. It is a flowering tree,
of the fir(t order for beauty and fragrance of blof-
foms : the tree grows fifteen or twenty feet high,
branching alternately ; the leaves are oblong,
broadefh towards their extremities, and terminate
with an acute point, which is generally a Uttle re-
flexed J they are lightly ferrated, attenuate down-
wards, and fcflile, or have very fhort petioles ; they
are placed in alternate order, and towards the extre-
mities of the twigs are crouded together, but (land
more fparfedly below ; the flovvers are very large,
expand themlelves perfedly, are of a fnow white
colour, and ornamented with a crown or taflfel of
gold coloured refulgent fl:amina: in their centre, the
inferior petal or fegment of the corolla is hollow,
formed like a cap or helmet, and entirely includes
the other four, until the moment of expanfion ; its
exterior furface is covered with a Ihort filky hair ;
the borders of the petals are crifped or plicated :

* On firft obferving the fniAification and habit of this tree, I was in-
c'lifcd to believe it a fpecics of tJorJonia ; but afterwards, upon ftri<5ler
examination, and comparing its flowers and fruit with thofe of the Gordo-
nia lafianthus, I prefently found llriking charaderiftics abundantly fuffici-
em to feparatc it from that ginus, and to eftablilh it the head of a new
tribe, which we have honoured with the name of the illulhious Dr. Ben-
jamin Franklin.

Franklinca Alatamaha.

H h thefe

466 TRAVELS IN

thefe large, white flowers fland fingle and feflile In
the bofom of the leaves, and being near together to-
wards the extremities of the twigs, and ufually
many expanded at the fame time, make a gay ap-
pearance : the fruit is a large, round, dry, woody
apple or pericarp, opening at each end oppofitely by
five alternate fiflures, containing ten cells, each re-
plete with dry woody cuneiform feed. This very
curious tree was firft taken notice of about ten or
twelve years ago, at this place, when I attended my
father (John Bartram) on a botanical excurfion ;
but, it being then late in the autumn, we could
form no opinion to what clafs or tribe it belonged.

We never faw It grow In any other place, nor
have I ever fmce feen it growing wild, in all my
travels, from Pennfylvania to Point Coupe, on the
banks of the Miffiflippi, which muft be allowed a
very fmgular and unaccountable circumftance ; at
this place there are two or three acres of ground
where it grows plentifully.

The other new, fmgular and beautiful fhrub*,
now here in full bloom, I never faw grow but at
two other places in all my travels, and there very
fparingly, except in Eaft Florida, in the neighbour-
hood of the fea-coaft.

* I gave it the n%me of Bignonia bradeatc, extempore*

CHAP.

NORTH AMERICA. 467

CHAP. X.

Having now completed my collections in Geor-
gia, I took leave of thcfe Southern regions, pro-
ceeding on my return to Charlefton. Left Savanna
in the evening, in confcquence of a prcffing invita-
tion from the honourable Jonathan Bryan, Efq. who
was returning from the capital, to his villa, about
eight miles up Savanna river ; a very delightful fitu-
ation, where are fpacious gardens, furnifhed with
a variety of fruit trees and flowering fhrubs. Ob-
ferved in a low wet place at the corner of the gar-
den, the Ado (Arum efculentum) ; this plant is
much cultivated in the maritime parts of Georgia
and Florida, for the fake of its large Turnip-like
root, which when boiled or roafted, is excellent
food, and taftes like the Yam ; the leaves of this
magnificent plant are very large, and of a beautiful
green colour, the fpatha large and circulated, the
fpadix terminates with a very long fubulated tongue,
naked and perfedly white : perhaps this may be the
Arum Colocafia. They have likewife another fpe-
cies of the efculent Arum, called Tannier, which
is a large and beautiful plant, and much cultivated
and elleemed for food, particularly by the Negroes.

At night, foon after our arrival, feveral of his
fervants came home with horfe loads of wild pi-
geons (Columba migratoria), which it feems they
had colleded in a lliort fpace of time at a neigh-
bouring Bay fwamp : they take them by torch
light : the birds have particular roofting places,
where they aflbciate in incredible multitudes at
evening, on low trees and bufhes, in hommocks
or higher knolls in the interior parts of vaft
H h 2 fwamps.

46? Travels in

fvvamps. Many people go out together on thi^
kind of fport, when dark ; feme take with theiu
little fafcines of fat Pine fpHnters for torches ;
others facks or bags ; and others furnifli themfelves
with poles or (laves : thus accoutered and prepared,
they approach the roofts ; the fudden blaze of light
confounds, blinds and affrights the birds, whsreby
muliitudes drop off the limbs to the ground, and
others are beaten off with the Itaves, being by the
fudden confternation, entirely helpkfs, and eafily
t3.ken and put into the facks. It is chiefly the
fweet fmall acorns of the Quercus phillos, Qiiercus
aquatica, Querv:us fempervirens, Quercus flam-
mula, and others, v/hich induce thefe birds to mi-
grate in the autumn to thofe Southern regions ;
where they fpend their days agreeably, and feafl
hixurioully, during the rigour of the colds in the
North, whither they return at the approach of fum-
mer to breed.

Sat off next day, and croffed the river at Zubley's
ferry, about fifty miles above Savanna, and in three
days after arrived at Charlefton.

Obferved, by the way near Jackfonfburg, Pon-
pon, After fruticofus, growing plentifully in good
moid ground, ufually by the banks of canals. It is
a moft charming autumnal flowering fhrub ; it will
life to the height of eight or ten feet, when fupport-
ed by neighbouring trees.

After a few days refidence in Charlefton, I fat
oft' on my return to my native land ; croffed Cow-
per river, about nine miles above the city, where
the water was a mile wide, and the ferry-houfc
beine; on the oppofite ftiore, I hoifted my travel-
ling blanket on a pole for a fignal, which being
white, the people fooa came to me and carried

me

NORTH AMERICA. 469

nie fafe oA-er. In three days more eafy travelling,
I croHed Winyaw bay, jult below George town ;
and in two days more, got to the Weft end of
Long bay, where 1 lodged at a large Indigo planta-
tion. Sat oiF early next morning, and after croiling
over the fand ridges, which aflbrd little elfe but
Quercus pumila, Myrica cerifcra, Calline, Side-
roxylon and Andromeda entangled with various fpe-
cies of Smilax, got on the bay, which is a hard
fand beach, expoied for the diltancc of fifteen miles
to the continual lafli of the Atlantic ocean. At
about low water mark, are cliffs of rocks of the
helmintholitus, being a very firm concrete or petri-
faftion, confining of various kinds of feafhells,
fine fand and pulverized fhells : there is a reef of
thefe rocks, thirty or forty yards farther out than
low water mark, which lift their rugged backs
^bove water, and brave the continual ftrokes of the
waves, which, however, afTifled by the conflant
fridion of the fands, make continual inroads upon
them, and bore them into holes and cavities, when
tempefluous feas rend them to pieces, fcattering the
fragments over the fandy fliore. It is pleafant riding
on this clean hard fand, paved with fhells of various
colours.

Obferved a number of perfons coming up a
head, whom I foon perceived to be a parry of
Negroes. I had every reafon to dread the confe
quence ; for this being a defolate place, I was by
this time feveral miles from any houfe or planta-
tion, and had reafon to apprehend this to be a
jrrcdatory band of Negroes ; people being fi e-
qucntly attacked, robbed, and fomeiimes niur-
deied by tliem at this place. I was unarmed,
aloae, and my horfe tired ; thus fituatcd every
way in their power, I had no alternative but to

be

47© TRAVELS IN

be refigned and prepare to meet them. As foon
as I faw them diftinclly a mile or two off, I im-
mediately ahghted to reft, and give breath to my
horfe, intending to attempt my fafety by flight,
if upon near approach they (hould betray hoftile
defigns. Thus prepared, when we drew near to
each other, I mounted and rode brilkly up ; and
though armed with clubs, axes and hoes, they
opened to right and left, and let me pafs peace-
ably. I'heir chief informed me whom they be-
longed to, and faid they were going to man a new
quarter at the Weft end of the bay ; I however
kept a ftiarp eye about me, apprehending that
this might poflibly have been an advanced divi-
fion, and their intentions were to ambufcade and
furround me ; but they kept on quietly, and I
was no more alarmed by them. After noon, I
croffed the fwafli at the eaft end of the bay, and
in the evening got to good quarters. Next morn-
ing early I fat off again, and foon cro0ed Little
River at the boundary ; which is on the line that
feparates North and South Carolina: in an old
field, on the banks of this river, a httle diftance
from the public, houfe, ftands a fingle tree of the
Magnolia grandiflora, which is faid to be the
moll northern fettlement of that tree. Paffed this
day over expanfive favannas, charmingly deco-
rated with late autumnal flowers, as Helianthus,
Rudbeckia, Silphium, Solidago, Helenium, Ser-
ratula, Cacalia, After, Lilium Martagon, Qen-
tiana, caerulea, Chironia, Gentiana faponaria,
Afclepias coccinea, Hypericum, Rhexia pul-
cherrima, &c. &c.

Obferved likewife in thefe Savannas abundance
of the ludicrous Dionsea mufcipula (Dionaea,
JlUis epis. ad Linnssum, miraculum naturae, folia

biloba.

NORTH AMERICA. 4.7I

biloba, radlcalia, ciliata, conduplicanda, fenfibilia^
infeda incarceranria. Syft. vegetab. p. t,t,s)'

This wonderful plant feems to be diftinguiflied in
the creation, by the Author of nature, with facul-
ties eminently fuperior to every other vegetable pro-
du6tion* ; fpecimens of it were firfl: communicated
to the curious of the old world by John Bartram, the
American botaniil and traveller, who contributed
as much, if not more, than any other man towards
enriching the North American botanical nomencla-
ture, as well as its natural hillory.

After traverfing thefe ample favannas, I grada-
ally afcended fand hills to open Pine forells ; at
evening got to Old town near Brunfwick, where I
lodged. Brunfwick is a fea-port town on the Cla-
rendon or Cape Fear river, about thirty miles
above the capes ; it is about thirty years fince this
was the feat of government, when Arthur Dobbs,
Efq. was governor and commander in chief of the
province of North Carolina. Continued up the
Weft fide of North Weft of Cape Fear river, and
refted two or three days at the feat of F. Lucas,
Efq. a few miles above Livingfton's creek, a con-
fiderable branch of the North Weft. This creek
heads in vaft fwamps, in the vicinity of the beau-
tiful lake Wakamavv, which is the fource of a fine
river of that name, and runs a South courfe feventy
or eighty miles, delivering irs waters into \Vinyaw
bay at George-town. The Wakamaw lake is twen-
ty fix miles in circuit ; the lands on its Eaftern
fhores are fertile, and the fituation delightful,
gradually afcending from pleafing eminences ;
bounded on the North- Weft coaft by vaft rich
fvvamps, fit for the production of Rice : the lake

• See fomeacccuDt of it in the intrcJudioD.

is

472 TRAVELS IN

is twelve miles Weft from Moore's Efq. whofe

villa is on the banks of the North Weft.

Proceeding again up the North Weft, crofted
Carver's creek, and ftopped at Aftiwood, the an-
cient feat of Colonel William Bartram. The houfe
ftands en the high banks of the river, near feventy
feet in height above the furface of the water ; this
high bluft" continues two or three miles on the ri-
ver, and commands a magnificent profpe6t of the
low lands oppofite, when in their native ft ate,
prefentiijg to the view grand forefts and expan-
five Cane meadows : the trees which compofe
thefe forefts are generally of the following tribes,
Quercus tinctoria, Querc. alba, C^.erc. phillos,
<^erc. aquatica, Querc. hemifpherica, Fraxinus
excelfior, Platanus occidentalis, Liriodendron
tulipifcra, Liquidambar ftyraciliua, Ulmus, Ti-
Ha, Juglans hiccory, Juglans cinerea, Juglans
nigra, Morus rubra, Gleditfia tiiacanthus, Ho-
pea tindloria, Nyffa aquatica, Nyna f;/lvatica,
Carpinus and many more ; the Cupreftus difticha
?.s ftately and beautiful as I have fcen any where.
When thefe lands are cleared of their timber and
cultivated, they produce abundantly, particular-
ly, Wheat, Zea, Cotton, Hemp, Flax, with va-
rietv of excellent vegetables. This perpendicu-
lar bank of the river, by which the waters fwiftly
glide along, difcovers at once the A'-arious ftrata
of the earth of this lov/ maritime country. For
the moft part, the upper ftratum conftfts of- a
light, fandv, pale, yellowifti mould or loam, for
ten or twelve feet in depth (except the flat level
land back from the. rivers, where the cjays or
marie approach very near the furface, and the
ridges of fand hills, where the clays lie much
deeper) ; this fandy mould or loam lico upon a

dtep

NORTH AMERICA. 473

deep bed of black or dark flate coloured faline
and fulphureous earth, which is compofed of ho-
rizontal thin flakes or lamince, feparated by means
of very thin, almofl imperceptible veins or ftrata of
fine micaceous particles, which drain or percolate a
clear water, continually exuding, or trickling
down, and forming Uttle rills and diminutive cata-
racts, being conducted by perpendicular chinks or
fifTures : in fome places, a portion of this clear
water or tranfparent vapour, fecms to coagulate on
the edges of the veins and (iifures, leaving a reddifh
curd or jelly-like fubilimce flicking to them, which
I lliould fuppofe indicates it to fpring from a ferru-
ginous fource, efpccially fince it difcovers a chaly-
beate fcent and tafle : in other places, thefe fifTures
fliow evidently a cryflallization of exceeding fine
white falts, which have an aluminous or vitriolic
fcent : they are pyrites, marcafites, or fulphureous
nodules, fhimng like brafs, of various fizes and
forms, fome fingle and others conglomerated :
other places prefent to view, ftrata of heterogeneous
matter, lying between the upper loamy flratum and
the bed of black faline earth, confiding of various
kinds of fea fhells, fome whole, others broken to
pieces, and even pulverized, which fill up the cavi-
ties of the entire fliells, and the interflices betwixt
them : at other places we obferve, two or three
feet below the furfacc or virgin mould, a flratum
of four, five, or fix feet in depth, of biownifh
marie, on a bed of teflaceous rocks ; a petrifaction
compofed apparently of various kinds of fea fliells,
belemnites, land, &c. combined or united with a
calcareous cement : thefe malfes of rocks are in
fome places detached by veins and (Irata of a hete-
rogeneous earth, confifling of fea fhells and other
marine produdions, as well as tevrcflial, which

feem

474 TRAVELS IN

feem to be foJTile, or in fome degree of petrifac-
tion, or otherwlfe tranfrauted, particularly thofe
curious productions called birds bills, or (harks
teeth (dentes carchariae), belemnices, &c. loofely
mixed with a deficcated earth compofed of fand,
clay, particles of marie, vegetable rubbifli, &c.
And again we obferve fhells, marcafites, belemnites,
dentes carcharias, with pieces of wood tranfmuted,
black and hard as fea coal, fmgly interfperfed in the
black vitrioHc flrata of earth : when this black
earth is expofed to the fun and dry air, the little
thin lamina:; feparate, and foon difcover a fine,
white cryftallization, or aluminous powder ; but
this very foon difappears, being again incorporated
with the general mafs, v/hich gradually diflblves or
falls like quick-lime, and appears then a grayifh,
extremely fine, dry micaceous powder, which fmells
like gun-powder.

The North Wefl: of Cape Fear, here at Afhwood,
is near three hundred yards over (when the flream
is low and within its banks), and is eighty or ninety
miles above the capes. Obferved growing here-
;^ibouts a great variety of very curious and beautiful
flowering and fweet fcented fhrubs, particularly Cal-
licarpa, ujlfculus pavia, floribus coccineis, caule
fuifruticofo, /Efculus fylvatica, floribus ex albo et
carneo elegamer variegatis, caule arboreo, Ptelea
trifoliata, Styrax, Stewartia, Fothcrgilla, Amorpha,
Myrica, Stillingia fruticofa, foliis lanceolatis, utrin-
que glabris, fructu tricocco, Olea Americana, fo-
liis lanceolato-ellipticis, baccis atro-purpureis (Pur-
ple berried bay), Catefby. Ilex dahoon, Caffine
Yapon, Azalea, varieties, ^Calmea, Cyrilla, Liquid-
ambar peregrinum, Sideroxylon, Andromeda \u-
cid^i> cCC.

Leavinrr Afliwood, and continuing up the Wefl

fide

J'c

W^// /V^// V // .-I///// V V 7/^// /;

1

NORTH AMERICA.

475

fide of the river, about forty miles, in the banks
of a creek, five or fix feet below the fandy furface,
are to be feen projecting out many feet in length,
trunks of trees petrified to very hard ftone ; they
lie between the uj^pcr fandy llratuni and the com-
mon bed of blackilh vitriolic earth ; and thefe ftone
trees are to be feen in the fame fituation, fticking
out of the perpendicular banks or bluffs of the
river in this region : there are feveral trunks of
large trees with their bark, ftumps of their limbs
and roots, lying petrified on the fand hills and Pine
forefts, near the road about this creek, not far
from the faw-mills.

CrofTed Rock-fifii, a large branch of the North
"Weft, near its mouth or confluence, and at even-
ing arrived at Crofs-Creeks, another very confi-
derable branch of the river, flowing in through
its Weft banks. This creek gave name to a fine
inland trading town, on fome heights or fwelling
hills, from whence the creek defcends precipi-
tately, then gently meanders near a mile, through
lower level lands, to its confluence with the river,
affording moft convenient mill-feats : thefe pro-
fpedts induced active, enterprifmg men to avail
themfelves of fuch advantages pointed out to them
by nature ; they built mills, which drew people
to the place, and thefe obferving eligible fituations
for other profitable improvements, bought lots and
ereded tenements, where they exercifed mechanic
arts, as fmiths, v.'heelwrights, carpenters, coopers,
tanners, kc. And at length merchants were en-
couraged to adventure and fettle : in fliort, within
eight or ten years, from a grift-mill, faw-mijl,
fmith-fhop and a tavern, arofe a flourifliing com-
mercial town, the feat of government of the county

of

4/6 TRAVELS IN

of Cumberhnd. The leading men of the county,
feeing plainly the fuperior advantages ol: this fitua-
tion, on the banks of a famous navigable river,
petitioned the Affembly for a charter to empower
them to purchafe a diftrict, fufficient for founding a
large town ; which being granted, they immedi-
ately proceeded to mark out its precindls, and
named the new city Cambelton, a compliment to

Cambel, Efq. a gentleman of merit, and a

citizen of the county. When 1 was here about
twenty years ago, this town v/as marking out its
bounds, and there were then about twenty habita-
tions ; and now there are above a thoufand houfes,
mznj wealthy merchants, and refpeclable public
buildings, a vaft refort of inhabitants and travellers,
and jcontinual briik commerce by waggons, from
the back fettlements, with large trading boats, to
and from WilmingtOi), the feaport and flourifhing
trading town on the Clarendon, about forty miles
above the capes, which is about one hundred miles
below this town. The Clarendon or Cape Fear
river has its fource in the Cherokee mountains,
where its numerous confederate ftreams unite ; af-
ter leaving the firft ridges of the mountains, it af-
fames the name of Haw river, and courfing the
hilly fertile country, above one hundred and fifty
miles, receives through its Weft banks the Weil
branch, called Deep River, and after this union,
takes tlic name of the North-Weft of Cape Fear,
from whence down to Cambelton, about eighty
miles, it is navigable for perriauguas of confider-
able burthen.

Obfervcd near Cambelton a very curious fcan-
dent Fern (Pteris fcandens) rambling over low
buuies, in humid fituations ; the lower larger
■fronds were digitated, or rather radiated, but

towards

>:orvTH -America. 477

towards the tops cr extremities of the branches
they became tritid, haftated, and laltly lanceolate :
it is a delicate plant, of a yellowifli lively green,
and would be an ornament in a garden.

Sat off again to Cambelton, continuing yet up
the North Weft about fixty miles ; croll'ed over
this branch, and foon after croflcd the Roanoke,
and then refted a few days at Mr. Lucas's, a wor_
thy old gentleman, a planter on JMehcrren river.
Obfcrved drolling over his fences and ftables, a
very fingular and ufeful fpecie? of the Gourd
(Cucurbita lagenaria) ; its neck or handle is above
two feet in length, and not above an inch in diame-
ter ; its belly round, which would contain about a
pint ; it makes excellent ladles, funnels. Sec. At
a little diftance from Mr. Lucas's, at the head of a
fwamp near the high road, I obferved a very curious
fpecies of Prinos, which grows feven or eight feet
high, the leaves broad, lanceolate, fharply fcrrated,
nervous, and of a deep green colour ; but its flrik-
ing beauty confifts in profufc clufters of fruit, col-
leded about the cafes or origin of the lafl fprincr's
fhoots ; ihefc berries are nearly round, about the
fize of middling grapes, of a fine clear fcarlet co-
lour, covered or inverted with an incarnate mift or
nebulee.

Being now arrived on ihe South border of Vir-
ginia, and the hoary frigid feafon far advanced, £
Ihall pafs as fpeedily as pollible from hence to Penn-
fylvania, my native country ; fmce thofe cultivated
regions of Virginia and Maryland, through which
I defign to travel, have been over and' over ex-
plored, and defcribed by very able men in every
branch of natural hiftory.

After leaving Mehencn, I foon arrived at

Alexandjia

47^ TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA."

Alexandria in Virginia, a fine city on the Weft
banks of the Patowmac, about the 26th of Decem-
ber, having had excellent roads, and pleafant,
moderate weather, neither' fnow nor ice to be feen,
except a flight fall of fnow from a flying cloud, the
day before I reached this place ; but this evening it
clouded up from the Weft, the wind North-eaft
and cold. Next morning the fnow was eight or ten
inches deep on the ground, and the wind ftiifting to
North-weft, cleared up intenfely cold : I however
fat off and croffed the river juft below the falls, and
landed at George-town in Maryland. The fnow
was now deep every where around, the air cold to
an extreme, and the roads deep under fnow or
llippery with ice, rendered the travelling uncom-
fortable.

Being now arrived at Wright's-ferry, on the
Sufquehanna, I began anxioufly to look towards
home, but here I found almoft infuperable em-
barraifments : the river being but half frozen over,
there was no poffibility of crofhng here ; but hear-
ing that people croffed at Anderfon's, about five
miles above, early next morning 1 fat off again up
the river, in company with feverai travellers, fome
for Philadelphia : arriving at the ferry, we were
joined by a number of traders, with their pack-
horfes laad^d with leather and furs, where we all
agreed to venture over together ; and keeping at a
!noderate diftance from each other, examining well
our icy bridge, and being careful of our fteps, we
landed fafe on the oppofite fhnre, got to Lancafter
in the evening, and next morning fat forward again
towards Philadelphia, and in two days more arrived
at my father's houfe on the banks of the river
Schuylkill, within four miles of the city, January
1778:

AN

ACCOUNT

OF THE

PERSONS, MANNERS, CUSTOMS AND GOVERNMENT,

OF THE

MUSCOGULGES, or CREEKS,
CHEROKEES, CHACTAWS, kc,

ABORIGINES OF THE CONTINENT OF

NORTH AMERICA.

V/ILLIAM BARTRAM.

NORTH AMERICA. ^^l

PART IV.

CHAP. T.

Defer ipt ion of the charaaer^ (ufonis aid perfonx cf the
American Aborigines, fr::^' r,vj own obfer'va-'ifjiu, as
'■j: ell as from the general and impartial report zf anci-
ent, rcfpcSiable men, ei her of their 9ivn people, cr
'white traders, ivbo have fpent 7nanj days cf their
lives among/} them.

PERSONS AND OUALIFICATIONS.

i. HE males of the Chcrokccs, Mufccgulges, Si-
minoles, Chicafaws, Chaclaws, and confederate
iribes of the Creeks, are tall, erect, and moderately
Tobufl ; their limbs well fhaped, fo as generally to
form a perfed human figure ; their features regular,
and countenance open, dignified and placid ; yet
the forehead and brow fo formed, as to ftrike yon
inftantly with heroifin.and bravery ; the eye though
rather finall, yet adive and iull of fire ; the iris al-
ways black, and the nofe commonly inclining to the
aquiline.

Their countenance and a£lions exhibit an air of
magnanimity, fuperiority and independence.

Their complexion, of a reddifli brown or copper
colour ; tlieir hair long, lank, coarfe, and black as
a raven, and reficding the liij.e lultfe at different
expofures to tlic light.

The women of the Cherckees, are tall, llender,
ereft and of a delicate frame ; their features form-
ed with perfect fymmetrv, their countenance cheer-

ii fui

4S2 TRAVHLS IN

ful and friendly, and they move with a becoming
grace and dignity.

The Mufcogulge women, though remarkably
fhort of ftature, are well formed ; their vifage
round, features regular and beautiful ; the brow
high and arched ; the eye large, black and lan-
guifiiing, expreifxve of modelty, diffidence, and
balhfulnefs ; thefe charms are their defenfive and
offenfive weapons, and they know very well how
to play them off, and under cover of thefe alluring
graces, are concealed the mod fubtile artifice ;
they are however loving and affectionate: they
are, I believe, the fmallelt race of women yet
known, feldom above five feet high, and I believe
the greater number never arrive to that ftature ;
their hands and feet not larger than thofe of Eu-
ropeans of nine or ten years of age: yet the men
are of gigantic ftature, a full fize larger than Eu-
ropeans ; many of them above fix feet, and few
under that, or five feet eight or ten inches. Their
complexion much darker than any of the tribes to
the North of them that I have feen. This defcrip-
tion will I believe comprehend the Mufcogulges,
their confederates, the Chaclaws, and 1 beheve the
Chicafaws) though I have never feen their women),
excepting however fome bands of the Siminoles,
Uches and Savannucas, who are rather taller and
flenderer, and their complexion brighter.

The Cherokees are yet taller and more robuft
than the Mufcogulges, and by far ihe largeft race
of men I have feen* j their complexions brighter

* There are, however, fome exceptions to this general obfervatlon, as I
have myfclf witneffed. Their prcfent grand chief or emperor (tlie Little
Carpenter, Atta-kul-kulla , is a man of remarkably fmall ftature, flender,
and of a delicate frame, the only inflance I faw in the nation : but he is a
aian of fupcrior abilities.

and

NORTH AMERICA. 483

and fomewhat of the olive cad, efpecially the adults ;
and Ibme of their young women are nearly as fair
and blooming as European women.

The Cherokees in their difpofitions and man-
ners are grave and fteady : dignified and circum-
fpe6t in their deportment ; rather flow and re-
ferved in converfation ; yet frank, cheerful, and
humane ; tenacious of the liberties and natural
rights of man ; fecret, dehberate and determined
in their councils ; honeft, juft and liberal, and
ready always to facriiice every plcafure and grati-
fication, even their blood, and life itfclf, to de-
fend their territory and maintain their rights.
They do homage to the Mufcogulges with re-
luftance, and are impatient under that galling
yoke. 1 was witnefs to a mod humiliating lafli,
which they paflively received from their red maf-
ters, at the great congrefs and treaty of Augufla,
when thefe people acceded with the Creeks, to
the cefTion of the New Purchafe ; where were
about three hundred of the Creeks, a great part of
whom were warriors, anil about one hundred Che-
rokees.

The firfl day of convention opened with fettling
the preliminaries, one article of which was a de-
mand on the part of the Georgians, to a territory
lying on the Tugilo, and claimed by them both,
which it fcems the Cherokees had, previous to
the opening of congrefs, privately conveyed to the
Georgians, unknown to the Creeks. The Geor-
gians mentioning this as a matter fettled, the
Creeks demanded in council, on what foundation
they built that claim, fiiying they had never ceded
thefe lands. The Georgians snfwered, that they
bought them of their fi lends and brothers the
Cherokees. The creeks nettled and incenfed at

I i " thisj

4^4 TRAVELS IN

this, a chief and warrior flarted up, and with an
agitated and terrific countenance, frowning me-
naces and diidain, fixed his eyes on the Cherokee
chiefs, and alkcd them what right they had to
give away their lands, calKng them old women,
and faying they had loivj ago obhged them to wear
the petticoat, a mofi humiliating and degrading
ftroke, in the prefence of the chiefs of the whole
Mufcogulge confederacy, of the Chicafaws, prin-
cipal men and citizens of Georgia, Carolina, Vir*
ginia, Maryland and Pennfylvania, in the face of
their own chiefs and citizens, and amidft the laugh
and jeers of the aiTcmbly, efpecialiy the young
men of Virginia, their old enemies and dreaded
neighbours : but humiliating as it really was, they
^vere obliged to bear the Iligma paffively, and even
without a reply.

And moreover, thefe arrogant bravos and ufurp-
crs carried their pride and im.pcrtance to fuch
lengths, as even to threaten to diflblve the congrefs
and return home, unlefs the Georgians confcnted
to annul the fecret treaty with the Cherokees, and
receive that territory immediately from them, as ac-
knowledging their exclufive right of alienation ;
which was complied with, though violently ex-
torted from the Cherokees, contrary to right and
fanction of treaties ; fince the Savanna river and its
waters were acknowledged to be the natural and juft
bounds of territory betwixt the Cherokees and Muf-
cogulges.

The national character of the Mufcogulges,
when confidered in a political view, exhibits a
portraiture of a great or illuftrious heroe. A
proud, haughty and arrogant race of men ; they
are brave and valiant in war, ambitious of con-
queft, reftlefs and perpetually exercifing their

armsj.

NORTH AMfiRIC\. 4^5

arms, yet magnanimous and n'^erclful to a van-
quifhed enemy, when he fubmits and feeks their
friendfhip and protcdion : always uniting the van-
quiflicd tribes in confederacy with them j when they
immediately enjoy, unexceptionably, every right of
free citizens, and are from that moment united in
one common band of brotherhood. They were ne-
ver known to exterminate a tribe,- except the Yama-
fees, who would never fubmit on any terms, but
fought it out to the lad, only about forty or fifty
of them efcaping at the laft decifivc battle, who
threw themfelves under the protedionof the Spani-
ards at St. Augufline.

According to their own account, which I believe
to be true, after their arrival in this country, they
joined in alliance and perpetual amity with the Bri-
tilh colonilts of South Carolina and Georgia, which
they never openly violated ; but on the contrary,
puifued every flcp to ftrengthen the alliance ; and
their aged chiefs to this day, fpeak of it with tears
of joy, and exult in that memorable tranfadion, as
one of the moil glorious events in the annals of their
nation.

As an infrancc of their ideas of political impar-
tial juftice, and homage to the fupreme Being, as
the high arbiter of human tranfa<S:ions, who alone
claims the right of taking away the life of man, 1
bee: leave to' offer to the reader's confidcration,
the following event, as I had it from the mouth
of a Spaniard, a refpedable inhabitant of Eaft Flo-
rida.

The fon of the Spanifh governor of St. Au-
guPane, together with two young gentlemen, his
friends and aflbciates, .conceived a defign of
amufmg themfelves in a parry of fpnrt, at hunt-
in rr

486 TRAVELS IN

ing and fiHiin^. Having provided themfelvcs
with a convenient bark, ammunition, fifhing
tackle, kc. they fet I'ail, direding their courfe
South, along the coaft, towards the point of Flo-
rida, putting into bays and rivers, as conveniency
and the profpeft oF game invited them. The
pleafing rural and diverfifieJ fcenes of the Florida
coad, imperceptibly allured them far to the fouth,
beyond the Spanifn fortified pod. Unfortunate
youths! regardlefs of the advice and injunctions
of their parents and friends, ftill purfuing the de.
lufive objects, they entered a harbour at evening
with a view of chafmg the roe-buck, and hunting
up the fturdv bear, folacing themfelves with de-
licious fruits, and repofing under aromatic fhades ;
when, alas! cruel unexpedled event! in the bea-
tific moments cf their flumbers, they were fur-
rounded, arrefled and carried off by a predatory
band of Creek Indians, proud of the capture, fo
rich a prize ; they hurry away into cruel bondage
the haplefs youths, conducting them by devious
paths through dreary fwamps and boundlefs favan-
nas, to the Nation.

At that time the Indians were at furious war with
the Spaniards, fcarcely any bounds fet to their cru-
elties on either fide : in fliort, the miferable youths
were condemned to be burnt.

But there were Englifh traders in thefe towns,
who learning the character of the captives, and ex-
pecting great rewards from the Spanifh governor,
if they could dehver them, petitioned the Indians
on their behalf, exprefiing their wifhes to obtain
their refcue, offering a great ranfom ; acquaint-
ing them at the fame time, that they were young
men of high rank, and one of them the governor's

fon.

Upon

KORTH AMERICA. 4^7

Upon this, the head men, or chiefs of the w-holc
nation, were convened, and after folemn and ma-
ture deUberation, they returned the tiaders their
final anfwer and determination, which was as fol-
lows :

" Brothers and friends. We have been confi-
xiering upon this bufinefs concerning the captives—
and that, under the eye and fear of the Great
Spirit. You know that thefe people are our cruel
enemies ; they fave no lives of us red men, who
fall in their power. You fay that the youth is the
fon of the Spanifli governor j we believe it ; we
are forry he has fallen into our hands, but he is
our enemy : the two young men (his friends) are
equally our enemies ; we are forry to fee them
licre ; but we know no difference in their ilefli and
blood ; they are equally our enemies ; if we fave
one we mult fave all three : but we cannot do it ;
the red men require their blood to appeafe the fpirits
of their flain relatives j they have entrufted us with
the guardianlhip of our laws and rights, we cannot
betray them.

" However we have a facred prefcrlptlon rela-
tive to this affair, which allows us to extend
mercy to a certain degree : a third is faved by
lot : the Great Spirit allows us to put it to that
decifion ; he is no refpedlcr of perfons." The
lots were call. The governor's fon was taken and
burnt.

If we confider them with refpeft to their pri-
vate charafter or in a moral view, they muft, I
think, claim our approbation, if we dived our-
fclves of prejudice and think freely. As moral
men they certainly Hand in no need of European
civilization.

They

48B TRAVELS IN

They are jufi, honefl, liberal, and hofpitable to
ft rangers; confideTiife, loving and atFedlionate to
their wives and relatiojp^ ; fond of their children ;
induftiioiin, frugal, temperate, and perfeverlng ;
charitable and forbearing. I have been weeks and
months amongll them and in their towns, and never
obferved the lead fign of contention or wrangling :
never faw^ an inffance of an Indian beating his v^fifc,
or even reproving her in anger. In this cafe they
fland as examples of reproof to thetnofl ci\ ilized
nations, as not being defective in juftice, gratitude
and a good underftanding ; for indeed their wives
merit their efteem and the moft gentle treatment,
they being induftricns, frugal, careful, loving and
affedlionate.

The Mufcogulges are more volatile, fjDrightly
and talkativt than their Northern neighbours, the
Cherokees ; and, though far more diftant from
the white fettlements than any nation Eaft of the
Miffiffippi or Ohio, appear evidently to have made
greater advances towards the refinements of true
civilization, which cannot, in the lead degree, /be
attributed 10 the good examples of ' the white
people.

Their internal police and family economy at
once engage the notice of European travellers, and
incontrovertibly place thefe people in an illuflrious
point of view : their liberality, intimacy and friend-
ly intcrcourfe one with another, without any re-
flraint of ceremonious formality, as if they v/ere
even infenfible of the ufe or rieceility of affociating
the paffions or affections of avarice, ambition or
covetoufnefs.

A man goes forth on his bufinefs or avoca-
tions ; he calls in at another town 5 if he wants

vidualsj

NORTH AMERICA. 489

Ticlaais, reft or foclal converfation, he confidently
approaches the door of the firlt houfe he choofes,
faying " I am come ;*' the good man or woman
rephes, " You are ; it's well.** Immediately vic-
tuals and drink are ready ; he eats and drinks a
little, then fmokes tobacco, and converfes either of
private matters, public talks, or the news of the
town. He rifes and fays, " I go!" the other an-
fwers, " You do !" He then proceeds again, and
fteps in at the next habitation he likes, or repairs
to the public fquare, where are people aKvays con-
verfing by day, or dancing all night, or to fome
more private affembly, as he likes ; he needs no
one to introduce him, any more than the black-
bird or thrufli, when he repairs to the fruitful
groves, to regale on their luxuries, and entertain
the fond female with evening fongs.

It is aflonifhing, though a fact, as w^ell as a
{harp reproof to the white people, if they w ill allow
themfelves liberty to refled: and form a jufl efli-
mate, and I mufl own elevates thefe people to the
firfl rank amongd mankind, that they have been
able to refill the continual efforts of the com-
plicated hofl of vices, that have for ages over-run
the nations of the old world, and fo contaminated
their morals ; yet more fo, fmce fuch vaft armies
of thefe evil fpirits have invaded this continent, and
clofely invefted them on all fides. Atlonifliing in-
deed ! when we behold the ill, immoral condud
of too many white people, who refide amongfl
them : notwithftanding which, it feems natural,
eligible, and even eafy, for thefe fimple, illite-
rate people, to put in practice thofe beautiful
lectures delivered to us by tlie ancient fages
and philofophers, and recorded for our inftruc-
tion.

I faw

49<3 TRAV£I.S IN

I fdw a young Indian In the Nation, who when
prefent, and beholJincr the fcenes ot mad intem-
peiance and folly acted by the white men in. the
town, clapped his hand to his bread, and Avith
a Imlle, looked aloft as if flruck with ailoniih-
liient, and wrapt in love and adoration to the
Deity j as who fhould fay, " O thou Great and
Good Spirit ! we are indeed fenfible of thy benig-
nity and favour to us red men, in denying us the
underftanding of white men. We did not know
before they came amongfl us that mankind could
become fo bale, and fall fo below the dignity oi
their nature. Defend us from their manners, laws
and power.'*

The Mufcogulges, with their confederates, the
Chadaws, Chicafaws, and perhaps the Cherokees,
eminently deferve the encomium of all nations, for
their wifdcm and virtue in refilling and even re-
pelling the greatelt, and even the common enemy of
mankind, at lead of inoft of the European nations, I
mean fpirituous Itquors.

The fird and mod cogent article in all their
treaties with the Vvhite people, is, that there Ihall
iiot be any kind of fpirituous liquors fold or brought
iiito their towns ; and the traders are allowed but
two kegs (five gallons each) which is fuppofed to
he fuilicient for a company, to ferve them on the
road ; and if any of this remains on their approach-
ing the towns, they mull fpill it on the ground or
iecrete it on the road, for it muft not come into
ilie town.

On my journey from Mobile to the Nation, jufl/
after we had paffcd the junction of the Penfacola
road with our path, two young traders overtook
us cu their way to the Nation. We inquired

what

NORTH AMERICA.

491

v/hat news ? They informed us that they were run-
ning about forty kegs of Jamaica fpirits (which by
dailiing would have made at lead eighty kegs) to
the Nation ; and after having left the town three
or four days, they were furprifed on the road in
the evening, juft after thcv had come to camp, by
a party of Creeks, who difcovering their fpecies of
merchandize, they forthwith flruck their toma-
hawks into every keg, giving the liquor to the
thirdy fand, not tafling a drop of it themfelvcs ;
and they had enough to do to keep the tomahawks
from their own fkulls.

How are we to account for their excellent policy
in civil gov.ernment : it cannot derive its influence
from coercive laws, for they have no fuch artificial
fyflem. Divine v/ifdom dictates and they obey.

"We fee and know full well the direful effefls of this
torrent of evil, which has its fource in hell ; and
we know furely, as well as thefe favages, how to
divert its courfe and fupprefs its inundations. Do
we want wifdom and virtue ? let our youth then
repair to the venerable councils of the MufcoguU
ges.

CHAP.

49* TRAVELS IN

C H A P. II.

On their Government and Chi! Society,

Thk conflitution or fyfliein of their police is
(Imply natural, and as little coAvplicLited as that
which is fuppofed to dlreft or rule the approved
economy of the ant and the bee ; and feems to be
nothing more than the fnnple dictates of natural
reafon, plain to every one, yet recommended to
them by their wife and virtuous elders as divine,
liecaufe necelTary for fecuring mutual happinefs :
equally binding and efteftual, as being propofed
and afiented to in the general combination : every
oner's confcience being a fufficient convitlion (the
golden rule, do as you would be done by) in-
Itantly prefents to view, and produces a fociety of
peace and love, which in eE-ed; better maintains
liuman happinefs, than the mod complicated fyfr
tem of modern politics, or fumpLuary laws, en-
forced by coercive means : for here the people are
all on an equality, as to the poifeffion and enjoy-
ments of the common necefi'aries and conveniences
of life, for luxries and fuperfiuities they have
none.

This natural coriflltuilon Is (imply fubordlnate ;
and the fupreme, fovereign or executive power re-
f dcs in a council of elderly chiefs, warriors and
others, refpedable for wifdom, valour and virtue.

At the head of this venerable fenate, prefides
their mico or king, which lignifies a maglitrate 9i
chief ruler : the governors of Carolina, Georgia,
&c. are called micos ; and the king of England is
called Ant-apala-mico-clucco*, that is the great
king, over or beyond the great water.

♦ CIuccofiguififE great or excellent

The

NORTH AMERICA.

•493

The kinp^, although he is acknowltdged to be
the firft and greatefl man in the town or tribe, and
honoured with every due and rational inaik of love
and edcem, and when prcfiding in council, with a
humility and homage as reverent as that paid to the
molt defpoiic monarch in Europe or the Eaft,
and when abfent, his feat is not filled by any other
perfon, yet he is not dreaded ; and when out of the
council, he afTociates with the people as a commoii
man, converfss with them, and they with him, ia
perfeCL cafe and familiarity.

The mico or king, though elective, yet his ad-
vancement to that fupreme dignity mull be under-
ftood in a very different light from the eledive mo-
narchs of the old world, where the progrefs to
magiftracy is generally effected by fchifni and the
influence of friends gained by craft, bribery, and
often by more violent efforts ; and after the throne
is obtained, by meafures little better than ufurpa-
lion, he muff be proteded and fupported there, by
the fame bafe means that carried him thither.

But here behold the majeny of the Mufcogulga
mico ! he does not either publicly or privately
beg of the people to place him in a fituation to
command and rule them : no, his appearance is
altogr^ther myilerious ; as a beneficent deity he
rifes kin? over them, as the fun rifes to blcfs the
earth !

No one will tell you how or when he became
their king ; but he is univcrfally acknovvledged
to be the greateft perfon among them, and he is
loved, effeemed and reverenced, although he af-
fociates, eats, drinks and dances with them in
common as another ir.an j his drefs is the fame,

and

494 TRAVELS IN

and a ftiangcr could not difllngulfh the king's
habitation, from that of any other citizen, by any
fort of fplendour or magnificence ; yet he perceives
they acl as though their mico beheld them, him-
felf invifible. In a word, their mico feems to
them the reprefentative of Providence or the
Great Spirit, -whom they acknovvledge to prefide
over and influence their councils and pubUc pro-
ceedings. He perfonally prefides daily in their
councils, either at the rotunda or pubhc fquare :
and even here his voice, in regard to bufinefs in
hand, is regaKled no more, than any other chief's
or fenator's, no farther than his advice, as being
the befl and wifeft man of the tribe, and not by
virtue of regal prerogative. But whether their
ultimate decifions require unanimity, or only a
majority of voices, I am uncertain ; but probably
where there is a majority, the minority volunta-
rily accede.

The mofl active part the mico takes is in the civil
government of the town or tribe : here he has the
power and prerogative of calling a council, to de-
liberate on peace and war, or all pubhc concerns,
as inquiring into, and deciding upon complaints
and diiferences ; but he has not the leafl: fiiadow of
exclufive executive pov/er. He is complimented
with the firlt vifits of ftrangers, giving audience to
ambafladors, with prefents, and he has aifo the dif-
pofal of the public granary.

The next man in order of dignity and pov/cr,
is the great v.-ar chief : he rej)rcrents and exer-
cifes the dignity of the mico, in his abfencc, in
council ; his voice is of the greatefl weight, in
military affairs 5 his power and authority are en-
tirely independent of the mico, though when a

mico

NORTH AMLRICA. 4j5

niico goes on ?.n expedition, he heads the Hiuiy, ^
and is there the war chioT. There are man)' of
thefe war chief's in a to^vn or tribe, who are cap«
tains or leaders of military parties ; they are t.1-
derly men, who in their youthiul days have cAC-
tinguifhed themfehcs in war by vaK)ur, lubtihy
and intrepidity ; and thefe veteran chitis, in a
great degree, confUtutc their truly diL^niiied and
venerable fenates.

There is in every town or tribe a high pricn.,
ufually called by the white people juggkrs, or co:i-
jurers, befides feveral ju;ilv-.is or graduates. But
the ancient high prieiT or feer, prefidjs in fpirltuis.!
affairs, and is a peribn of confequence ; he main-
tains and exercifcs great influence in the (late, par-
ticularly in military affairs ; the fenate never deter-
mine on an e::pedition againfl their enemy without
his counfcl and afii fiance. Thefe people generally
believe ib.at their fccr has communion with power-
ful invifible fpirils, who they fuppofc have a fiiarc
in the rule and government of human affairs, as
well as the elements ; that he can predicl the reiV.lt
of an expedition ; and his influence is fo great,
that they have been known frequently to itop, and
turn back an army, Vvhcn within a day^s journey of
their enemy, after a march of feveral hundred
miles; and indeed their predi<flions have furpnzed
many people. They iorettl rain or drought, and
pretend to bring rain at pleafsre, cure difeafes, a;id
cxercife witchcraft, invoke or expel evil 'i)lrits,
and even affume the power of directing thunder
and lightning.

Thefe Indians arc by no n^Lins idolaters, un-
lefs fheir puffing the tobaeco fmoke towards tlu
fun, and rejoicing at the appearance oi the nev,

mo.M:,

496 TRAVELS IK

V moon*, may be termed fo. So far from Idolatry
are they, that they have no images amongft them,
nor any religious rite or ceremony that I could
perceive ; but adore the Great Spirit, the giver and
taker away of the breath of life, with the mofl
profound and refpeclful homage. They believe in
a future itate, where the fpirit exifts, which they
call the world of fpirits, where they enjoy different
degrees of tranquilHty or comfort, agreeably to
their life fpcnt here: a perfon who in his life has
been an indudrious hunter, provided well for his
family, an intrepid and adive warrior, juil, upright,
and done all the good he could, will, they fay, in
the world of fpirits, live in a warm, pleafant coun-
try, where are expanfive, green, flowery favannas
and high forefts, watered with rivers of pure wa-
ters, replenifhed with deer, and every fpecies of
game ; a ferene, unclouded and peaceful fky ; in
Ihort, where there is fulnefs of pleafure, uninter-
rupted.

They have many accounts of trances and vifions
of their people, who have been fuppofed to be dead,
but afterwards reviving, have related their vifions,
which tend to enforce the pradice of virtue and
the moral duties.

Before I went amongft the Indians, I had often
heard it reported, that thefe people, when their
parents, through extreme old age, become de-
crepid and helplefs, in compaffion for their miferies,
fend them to the other world, by a flroke of the
tomaha\\k or bullet. Such a degree of depra-
vity and fpecies cf impiety always appeared

* I have obferved the young fellows very mcry and jocofc, at the ap-
pearance of the new moon, faying, how afliamed flic looks under the veil,
fince (leaping with the fun thefe two or three nights, flic is afliamed to
Ihowhcr fate, &c

to

KCRTM AMERICA. 497

to me fo incredibly inhuman and horrid, that it was
with the utmoft difficulty I afiTumed refolution fu^-
cient to enquire into it.

The traders aflured me that they knew no inflance
of fuch barbarifm ; but that there had been in-
llances of the communities performing fuch a deed
at the earneft requefl of the viftim.

When I was at Mucclaffe town, early one morn-
ing, at the invitation of the chief trader, we re-
paired to the public fquare,. taking with us fome
prefents for the Indian chiefs. On our arrival we
took our feats in a circle of venerable men, rouncj
a fire in the centre of the area : other citizens were
continually coming in, and amongfl: them I was
ftruck with avve and veneration at the appearance
of a very aged man ; his hair, what little he had,
was as white as fnow ; he was conducted by three
young men, one having hold of each arm, and the
third behind to fteady him. On his approach the
•vi'hole circle faluted him, " welcome," and made
way for him : he looked as fmiling and cheerful as
youth, yet llone-blind by extreme old age : he was
the moll ancient chief of the tov»?n, and they all
feemed to reverence him. Soon after the old man
had feated himfelf, I diltributed my prefents, giving
him a very fine handkerchief and a twifl: of choice
tobacco, which paiTed through the hands of an el-
derly chief who fat next him, telling him it was a
prefent from one of their white brothers, lately
arrived in the nation from Charlefton : he received
the prefent with a fmile, and thanked me, return-
ing the favour immediately with his own (tone
pipe and cat fkin of tobacco : and then compli-
mented me with a long oration, the purport ot
which was the value he fet on the friendfliip of

Kk the

49^ TRAVELS IN

the Carolinians. He faid, that when he was a
young man tliey had no iron hatchets, pots, hoes,
knives, razors nor guns, that they then made ufc
of their own (tone axes, clay pots, flint knives,
bows and arrows j and that he was the firfl man
who brought the white people's goods into his
tow'n, which he did on his back from Charlefton,
five hundred miles on foot, for , they had no horfes
then amongfi; them.

The trader then related to me an anecdote con-
cerning this ancient patriarch, which occurred not
long before.

One morning after his attendants had led him
to the council fire, before feating himfelf, he ad-
dreffed himfelf to the people after this manner —

" You yet love me ; what can I do novv^ to merit
your regard ? nothing ; I am good for nothing ;
I cannot fee to fhoot the buck or hunt up the fturdy
bear ; I know I am but a burthen to you ; I have
lived long enough ; now let my fpirit go ; I want
to fee the warriors of my youth in the country of
fpirits : (bareing his bread) here is the hatchet, take
it and ftrike." They anfwered with one united
voice, " We will not ; we cannot j we want vou
here."

CflAP-

NORTH AMERICA. -499

^ C H A P. in.

Of their Drcfs, Feajis and Divertifements.

THE vouth of both fexcs arc fond of dccoratin'T
themfclves with external ornan^cnts. The men
fliave their head, leaving only a^rnarrow crefl or
comb, beginning at the crown of the head, where
it is about two inches broad and about the fame
height, and (lands frizzed upright ; but this crefl
tending backwards, gradually widens, covering the
hinder part of the head and back of the neck : the
iank hair behind is ornamented with pendant filver
quills, and then jointed or articulated lilver plates;
and ufually the middle fafcicle of hair, being by far
the longeft, is wrapped in a large quill of filver, or
the joint of a fmall reed, curioufly fculptured and
painted, the hair continuing through it terminates
in a tail or tafl'cl.

Their ears are lacerated, feparating the border
or cartilaginous limb, which at firfl is bound round
very clofe and tight with leather firings or thongs,
and anointed with frefii bear's oil, until healed : a
piece of lead being faftened to it, by its weight ex-
tends this cartilage an incredible length, which
afterwards being craped, or bound round in brafs
or fdver wire, extends femicircularly like a bow or
crefcent ; and it is then very elaftic, even fo as to
fpring and bound about with the leait motion or
flexure of the body ; this is decorated with foft
white plumes of heron feathers.

A very curious diadem or band, about four

inches broad, and ingenioufly wrought or woven,

and curioufly decorated with ftoncs, beads,

wampum, porcupine quills, i^c. encircles their

K k 2 temples :

500 TRAVJiLS IN

temples ; the front peak of it being embelli/hed
with a high waving plume, of crane or heron
feathers.

The clothing of their body is very fimple and
friigah Sometimes a ruffled (liirt of fine linen,
next the fKin, and a flap, which covers their lower
parts; this garment fomewhat refembles the ancient
Roman breeches, or the kilt of the Highlanders ; it
ufually confifts of a piece of blue cloth, about
eighteen inches wide ; ihis they pafs betv/cen their
thighs, and both ends being taken up and drav/n
through a belt round their waifl, the ends fall
down, one befoie, and the other behind, not quite
to the knee ; this flap is ufually plaited and in-
dented at the ends, and ornamented with beads,
tinfel iace, &c.

The leg is furniflied with cloth boots ; they reach
from the ancle to the calf, and are ornamented with
lace, beads, filver bells, &c.

The ftillepica or moccafin defends and adorns
the feet ; it feems to be an imitation of the ancient
bufkin or fandal, very ingenioufly made of deer
{kins, dreffed very foft, and curioufly ornamented
according to fancy.

Eefide this attire, they have a large mantle of
the fined cloth they are able to purchafe, always
either of a fcarlet or tlue colour ; this mantle is
fancifully decorated with rich lace or fringe round
the border, and often with little round filver, or
brafs bells. Some have a fhort cloak, jull large
enou2:h to cover the fhoulders and brcaft ; this is
moil ingenioufly conflirucled, of feathers woven or
placed in a natural imbricated manner, ufually of
the fcarlet feathers of the flamingo, or others of
the gayeft colour.

, They

NORTH AMERICA. 50!

They have large filver crcfcenis, or gorgets,
which being fulpended by a ribband round the neck,
lie upon the breafl ; and the arms arc ornamented
with filver bands, or bracelets, and lilver and gold
chains, &c. a collar inverts the neck.

The head, neck and bread, are painted with
Vermillion, and fome of the warriors have rhc Ikin
of the bread, and mufcular parts of the body, very
curioufly infcribcd, or adorned, with hieroglyphick
fcroll?, llowers, figures of animals, flars, crefcents,
and the fun in the ctrirre of the breaft. This paint-
ing of the flefli, I underfiand, is performed in their
youth, by pricking the fkin with a needle, until
the blood ilarts, and rubbing in a bhieiili tindl:,
which is as permanent as their life. The fhirt hangs
loofe about the waid, like a frock, or fplit dov.n
before, refembling a gown, and is fometimes wrap-
ped clofe, and the waid encircled by a curious belt
or fadi.

The drefs of the females is fomewhat different
from that of the men : their fiap or petticoat is
made after a diiferent manner, is larger and longer,
reaching almod to the middle of the leg, and is put
on differently ; they have no diirt or ffrift, but a
little diort waidcoat, ufually made of callico, print-
ed linen, or fine cloth, decorated with lace, beads,
kc. They never wear boots or dockings, but their
buff^ins reach to the middle of the leg. They never
cut their hair, but plait it in wreaths, which are
turned up, andfadened on the^crown, with a filver
broach, forming a wreathed tbp»knot, decorated
with an incredible quantity of filk ribbands, of
various colours, which dream down on every fide,
almod to the ground. They never painr', except
thofe of a particular clafs, when difpofed to grant
certain favours :o the other fex.

But

502 " TRAVELS IN

But thefe decorations are only to be confidercd
as indailgencies on particular occafions, and the
privilege of youth ; as at weddings, feftivals,
dances, &c. or when the men alVemble to aft the
■war farce, on the evening immediately preceding
their march on a holtile expedition ; for ufually
they are almoft naked, contenting themfelves with
the flap and fometimes a fliirt, boots and moccafins.
I'he mantle is feldom worn by the men, except at
night, in the winter feafon, when extremely cold ;
and by the women at dances, when it ferves the
purpofe of a veil ; and the females always wear the
jacket;^ flap, and buflcin, even children as foon or
before they can walk ; whereas the maie youth go
perfeftly naked until tliey are twelve oi fifteen years
of age.

The junior prlePts or ftudent^ conflantly wear
the mantle or robe, which Is white ; and they
have a gre;it ovvd fkin cafed and fluffed very in-
genioufly, lo well executed, as almoll to repre-
fent the living bird, having large fparkling glafs
beads, or buttons, lixed in the head for eyes :
this enfign of wifdoni and divination, they v/ear
fometimes as a creft on the top of the head, at
other times the image fils on the arm, or is borne
on the hand. Thele bachelors are alfo diftin-
guifliable from the other people, by their tacitur-
nity, grave • and folemn countenance, dignified
ftejv and finging to themfelves fongs or hymns,
in a lov^' f\ve:t voice, as they flroll about the'
tov/n.\

Thefe f eople like all other nations, are fond of
mufic and dancing : their mufic is both vocal and
inftrumenlal ; but of the latter they have fcarcely
any thing worth the name ; the tambour, rattle-
gourd, andj a kind of flute, made of a Jomt of reed

or

NORTH AMERICA.

y^j

or the tibia of the deer's leg ; on this Inftrument
they perform badly, and at bell it is rather a hide-
ous melancholy dilcord, than harmony. It is only
young fellows who amuie themfelves on this
howling infhument ; but the tambour and rattle,
accompanied with their fweet low voices, pro-
duce a pathetic harmony, keeping exa>5i: time
together, and the countenance of the mulician, at
proper times, feems to exprefs the folemu elevated
llate of the mind : at that time there feems not
only a harmony between him and his inflrument,
but it inHantly touches tiie feelings of the attentive
audience, as the influence of an active and power-
ful fpirit ; there is then an united univerfal fenfalion
of delight and peaceful union of fouls throughout the
aifembly.

Their mufic, vocal and indrumental, united,
keeps exact time v.ith the performers or dancers.

They have an endlcfs variety of fleps, but the
mofl common, and that which 1 term the moft
civil, and indeed the moft admired and praftifed
amon'rft themfelves, is a flow fhufHin<T alternate
ftep ; both feet move forv/ard one after the other,
firft the right foot forcmoft, and next the left,
moving one after the other, in oppofite circles,
i. e. iirft a circle of young men, and v/Ithin, a
circle of young women, moving together oppofite
v'ay.<J, tlie men with the courfe of the fun, and the
females contrary to it ; the. men flrlke their arm
with the open hand, and the girls clap hands, and
raife their Ihrlll fweet voices, anfwering an elevated
ihout of the men at dated times of termination of
the flanzas ; and the girls perform an interlude or
chorus feparately.

To accompany their dances thev have fongs,

of

504 TRAVELS IN

of different claffes, as martial, bacchanalian and
amorous ; which laft, I mufl confefs, are extrava-
gantly libidinous ; and they have moral fongs,
which fecm to be the moft effeemed and pradifed,
and anfwer the purpole of religious ledtures.

Some of their moft favourite fongs and dances,
they have from their enemies, the Chadaws ; for it
feems thefe people are very eminent for poetry and
mufic ; every town amongft them ftrives to excel
each other in compofmg new fongs for dances ;
and by a cuftom amongx^t them, they muft have at
leaft one new fong, for exhibition, at every annual
bulk.

The young muftee, who came with me to the
MucclafTes from Mobile, having Chaclaw blood
in his veins from his mother, was a fenfible young
fellov/, and by his father had been inllruded in
reading, writing and arithmetic, and could fpeak
Englifli very well. He took it into his head to
travel into the Chadaw country : his views were
magnanimous, and his defigns in the highefl de-
gree commendable, nothing lefs than to inform
himfelf of every fpecies of arts and fciences, that
might be of ul'e and advantage when introduced
into his own country, but mere particularly mu-
fic and poetry. With thefe views he privately
left the Nation, went to Mobile, and there en-
tered into the fervice of the trading company to
the Chadaws, as a white man ; his eafy, com-
municative, adive and familiar difpofition and
manners, being agreeable to that people, pro-
cured him accefs every where, and favoured his
fubtilty and srtihce : at length, however, the
Chadaws hearing of his lineage and confangui-
nity with the Creeks, by the father's fide, pro-
nounced him a Creek, and confequently an ene-
my

KORTH AMKRICA. 505

ray and a fpy amongft them, and fecretly refolved
to difpatch him. The young philoibpher got no-'
tice of their fufpicions, and h^ftile intentions, in
time to make his cfcape ; though clofcly purfued,
he kept a-head of his fanguinary purfucrs, arrived
at Mobile, and threw himfelf under the protedlion
of the Englifh, entered the fervice of the trader of
Mucclalfc, who was then fctting ofl'for the Nation,
and notwithflanding the fpecd with which we tra-
velled, narrowly efcaped the ardour and vigilance
of his purfuing enemies, who furpriled a company
of emigrants, in the defarts of Schambe, the very
night after wc met them, expeding to intercept
him thereabout.

The young traveller having learned all their mod
celebrated new fongs and poetry, at a great dance
and feftival in the Mucclaffe, a day or two after
our arrival, the youth prefled him to give out fome
of his new fongs : he complied with their entrea-
ties, and the fongs and dance went round with
harmony and eclat. There was a young Chaclaw
flave girl in the circle, who foon after difcovered
very afl'ecling fenfations of affliclion and diftrefs
of mind, and before the conclufion of the dance,
many of her companions complimented her with
fympathetic fighs and tears, from their own fpark-
ling eyes. As foon as I had an opportunity, I
inquired of the young Orpheus, the caufe of
that fong being fo diilrefling to the young fluve.
He repUed, that when Hie was lately taken cap-
tive, her father and brothers were fiain in the
conteft, and (he underdanding the fcnfe of the
fong, called to remembrance the tragical fate of
her family, arid could not forbear weeph:g at the
recital.

The

5o5 TRAVELS IN

The meaning of the chorus was.

All men muft furely die,
The' no one knows how foon,
Yet when the time (liall come,
The event may be joyful.

Thcfe doleful moral fongs or elegies, have a
quick and fenfihle efFe6l on their paiTions, and dif-
cover a lively affeftion and fenfibility : their coun-
tenance now dejecled, again, by an eafy tranfition,
becomes gently elevated, as if in folemn addrefs or
fupplication, accompanied with a tremulous, fweet,
lamentable voice : a ftranger is for a moment loft
to himfelf as it were, or his mind, affociated with
the perfon immediately afFe^led, is in danger of re-
vealing his own diftrefs unawares.

They have a variety of games for exercife and
paftime : fome particular to the men, fome to the
female fex, and others wherein both fexes are en-
gaged.

The ball play is efleemcd the mofL noble and
manly exercife. This game is exhibited in an
extenfivc level plain, ufually contiguous to the
town : the inhabitants of one town play againfl
another, in confequence of a challenge, when the
youth of both fexes are often engaged, and fome-
times (lake tlleir whole fubftance. Here they
perform amazing feats of flrength and agility.
The game principally confifts in taking and car-
rying off the ball from the oppofite party, after
being hurled into the air, midway betv/een two
hif^h pillars, which are ihc goals, and the party
who bears off the ball to their pillar wins the
game ; each perfon has a racket or hurl, which
is an implement of a very curious confhudion,

fomewhat

XORTPI AMTRICA. 507

fomewhat refembling a ladle or little hoop-net, Avith
a handle near three feet in length, the hoop and
handle of vood, and the netting of tliongs of raw
hide, or tendons of an animal.

The foot-ball is likewife a favourite, manlv di-
verfion with them. Feaftim:!: and dancIn<T in the
fquare at cvennig, ends all their games.

They have befides, feafts or feftivals almoft for
every month in the year, which are chiefly dedicated
to hunting and agriculture.

The bufiv, or fcafl: of firfl fruits, is their princi-
pal feflival ; this feenis to end the lad, and begin
the new year.

It commences in Augufl, when their new crops
of corn are arrived to perfed maturity : and every
town celebrates the bulk feparately, when their
own harvefl is ready.

If they have any religious rite or ceremony, this
feflival is its mod folcnin celebration.

When a town celebrates the bulk, having pre-
vioufly provided themfelves wirh new cloaths, new
pots, pans, and other houlhold utenfils and fur-
niture, they collect all their irorn out clothes and
other defpicable things, fweep and cleanfe their
houfes, fquares, and the whole town, of their
filth, which with all the remaining grain and other
old provifions, they cafl together into one com-
mon heap, and confume it with fire. After having
taken medicine, and failed for three days, all
the fire in the town is extingulflied. During this
fait they abftain from the gratification of every
appetite and paluon whatever. A general amnefty
is proclaimed, all malefactors may return to their
town, and they are abfolvcd from their crimes,

which

5o8 TRAVELS IN

which are now forgotten* and they reftorcd to fa-

vour.

On the fourth morning, the high pried, by rub-
bing dry wood together, produces new fire in th©
public fquare, from whence every habitation in the
town is fupphed with the new and pure flame.

Then the women go forth to the harveft field,
and bring from thence new corn and fruits, which
being prepared in the bell manner, in various
difhes, and drink withal, is brought with folemnity
to the fquare, where the people are aifembled, ap-
parelled in their new cloaths and decorations. The
men having regaled themfelves, the remainder is
carried off and diflributed amongll the families of
the town. The women and children folace them-
felves in their feparate families, and in the evening
repair to the pubhc fquare, where they dance, fing,
and rejoice during the whole night, obferving a
proper and exemplary decorum : this continues
three days, and the four following days they receive
vifits, and rejoice with their friends from neigh-
bouring towns, who have purified and prepared
themfelves.

CHAP.

NORTH AMERICA. 509

c II A r. IV.

Coiicerning Propc ty, A gri culture. Art a, and Manu-
factures,

IT has been faiJ hv hiflorians, who have writ-
ten concerning the cuftoms and ufagcs of the
aborigines of America, that they have every
thing in common, and no private property ; which
are terms in my opinion too vague and general,
when appHed to thcfc people. From my own fre-
quent opportunides of obfervation, and the infor-
mation of rcfpeclable characters, who have fpent
many years amongfl: them, 1 venture to fet this
matter in a jufl view before my readers.

I (liall begin with the produce of their agricultural
labours.

An Indian town is generally fo. fituated, as to
be convenient for procuring game, fecure from
fudden invafion, having a large diftrid: of excel-
lent arable land adjoining, or in its vicinity, if
pofiible on an illhmus betwixt two waters, or
where the doubling of a river forms a peninfula.
Such a fituation generally comprifes a fulFicient
body of excellent land for planting Corn, Pota-
toes, Beans, Squafli, Pumpkins, Citruls, Melons,
he. and is taken in with a fmall expence and
trouble of fencing, to fecure the crops from the
invafion of predatory animals. At other times
however they choofe fuch a convenient fertile
fpot at forne difrance from their town, when cir-
cumftances will not admit of having both toge-
ther.

This

5IO TRAVELS IN

This is their common plantation, and the whole
town plant in one vaft field together ; but yet the
part or fhare of every individual family or habita-
tion, is feparated from the next adjoining, by a
narrow Itrip, or verge of grafs, or any other na-
tural or artificial boundary.

In the fpring, the ground being already pre-
pared, on one and the fame day, early In the
morning, the whole town is fummoned, by the
found of a conch fhell, from the mouth of the
overfeer, to meet at the public fquare, whither
the people repair with their hoes and axes ; and
from thence proceed to their plantation, where
they begin to plant, not every one in his own
little diftrift, affigned and laid out, but the whole
community united begins on one certain part of
the field, where they plant on until finiflied ; and
when their rifmg crops are ready for drefling and
cleanfmg, they proceed after the fame order, and
fo on day after day, until the crop is laid by for
ripening. After the feaft of the bulk is over, and
all the grain is ripe, the whole town again affem-
lole, and every man carries off the fruits of his
labour, from the part firfl allotted to him, which
he depofits in his own granary ; v/hich is indivi-
dually his own. But previous to their carrying off
their crops from the field, there is a large crib or
granary, erefted in the plantation, which is called
the king's crib ; and to this each family carries and
depofits a certain quantity, according to his ability
or inclination, or none at all if he fo choofes :
this in appearance feems a tribute or revenue to the
mico ; but in faft is defigued for another purpofe,
i. e. that of a public treafury, fupplied by a tew
and voluntary contributions, and to which every
citizen has the light cf free and equal accefs, when

his

NORTH AMERICA. 51I

Ills own private flores are confumed ; to ferve as a
furplus to Hy to for fuccour ; to affift neigh-
bouring towns, whole crops may have failed ; ac-
commotiate flrangers, or travellers ; afford provi-
fions or fupplies, Avhen they go forth on hoftile
expeditions ; and for all other exigencies of the
fiate : and tfiis treafure is at the difpofal of the king
or mico ; which is furely a royal attribute, to have
an exclafivc right an ability in a community to dif-
tribute comfort and bleffings to the neceifitous.

As to mechanic aits or manufadures, at prefent
they have fcarcely any thing worth obfervation,
fmce they are fupplied with necelTaries, convenien-
cies, and even fuperfluities by the white traders.
The men perform nothing except ere£l:ing their
mean habitations, forming their canoes, flone pipes,
tambour, eagles tail or Itandard, and fome other
trifling matters ; for war and hunting are their
principal employments. The women are more vi-
gilant, and turn their attention to various manual
employments ; they make all their pottery or ear-
then-ware, moccalins, fpin and weave the curious
belts and diadems for men, fabricate lace, fringe,
/embroider and decorate their apparel, Sec. kc.

512 TRAVELS IN

CHAP. V.

Of their Marriage an! Funeral Ceremonies.

AS to their marriage ceremonies, they are very
fimple, yet differ greatly in the various nations and
tribes. Amongft fome of the bands in the Mufco-
gulge confederacy, I was informed the myftery is
performed after the following manner. When a
young man has fixed his affedlions, and is deter-
mined to marry, he takes a Cane or Reed, fuch as
they ftick down at the hills of their Bean vines for
their fupport : with this (after having obtained her
parents' or nearefl relations' confent) he repairs to.
the habitation of his beloved, attended by his friends
and aflbciates, and in the prefence of the wedding
guefts, he flicks his Reed down, upright in the
ground ; when foon after his fweet-heart comes
forth with another Reed, which fhe fticks down by
the fide of his, when they are married : then they
exchange Re'eds, which are laid by as evidences or
certificates of the marriage, which is celebrated
with feafling, muficand dancing: each one of their
relations aud friends, at the wedding, contribute
fomething towards eftabhfliing the new family. As
foon as the wedding is over, the town is convened,
and the council orders or recommends a new habi-
tation to be conflrufted for the accommodation of
the new family ; every man in the tov/n joins in
the work, which is begun and finiflied in a day's
time.

The greateO: accompllfhments to recommend a
young man to his favourite maid, are to prove
himfelf a brave v/arrior, and a cunning, induflrious
hunter.

They

NORTH AMERICA, 5!^

They marry only for a year*s time, and, accord-
ing to ancient cuflom, at the expiration of the year
they renew the marriage : but there is feldom an
inflance of their feparating after they have children.
If it fhould fo happen, the mother takes the chil-
dren, under her own prctetlion, though the father
is obliged to contribute towards their maintenance
during their minority and the mother's widow-
hood.

The Mufcogulges allow of polygamy in the ut-
moft latitude ; every man takes as many wives as he
choofes, but the firll is queen, and the others her
handmaids and aflbciates.

It is common for a great man amongil them,
who has already half a dozen wives, if he fees a
child of eight or nine years of age, who pleafes
him, and he can agree with her parents or guar-
dians, to marry her and take her into his houfe at
that age.

Adultery is always puniflied with cropping,
which is the only corporal punlflmicnt amonglt
them ; and death or out-lawry for murder ; and
infamy for lefs crimes, as fornication, theft, &c.
which produces fuch repeated marks and reflec-
tions of ridicule and contempt, that it generally
ends in voluntary baniflnnent ; and thefe renega-
does and vagabonds are generally the ruffians who
commit depredations and murders on the fron-
tiers.

The Mufcogulges bury their deceafed in the
earth. They dig a four-fquare deep pit under the
cabin or couch which the deceafed lay on, in his
houfe, lining the grave with Cyprefs bark, where
they place the corpfe in a fitting pofture, as if it
were alive ; depofiting with him his gun, toma-
L 1 hawk,

5^4 TRAVELS IN

hawk, pipe, and fuch other matters as he had the
greateft value for in his Hfe time. His eldeft wife,
or the queen dowager, has the fecond choice of his
poffellions, and the remaining effects are divided
amongfl: his other wives and children.

The Chaftaws pay their laft duties and refpeft
to the deceafed in a very different manner. As
foon as a perfon is dead, they erect a fcaffold eigh-
teen or twenty feet high, in a grove adjacent to the
town, where they lay the corpfe, lightly covered
with a mantle : here it is fuffered to remain, vi-
iited and protefted by the friends and relations, un-
til the fielh becomes putrid, fo as eafily to part from
the bones ; then undertakers, who make it their
bufmefs, carefully (trip the flefli from the bones,
wafli and cleanfe them, and when dry and purified
by the air, having provided a curioufly wrought
chefl or coffin, fabricated of bones and fpHnts, they
place all the bones therein ; it is then depofited in
the bone-houfe, a building erected for that purpofe
in every town. And when this houfe is full, a ge-
neral folemn funeral takes place ; the neareft kin-
dred or friends of the deceafed, on a day appointed,
repair to the bone-houfe, take up the refpedive
coffinG, and following one another in order of fe-
niorlty, the neareft relations and connexions at-
tending their rcfpeftive corpfe, and the multitude
following after them, all as one family, with united
voice of alternate Allelujah and lamentation, flowly
proceed to the place of general interment, where
they place the coHins in order, forming a pyramid*;
and laflly, cover all over with earth, which raifes

'' Some Ingenious men, ■whom I have convcrfed with, have given it a»
their opinion, that p.W thofc pyramidal artiikial hills, uiually called Indi-ui
mounts, were raifcd on thefe occafions, and arc generally fcpulchrcs.
However 1 am of a different opinion.

a conical

NORTH AMERICA. 515

a conical hill or mount. Then they return to town
in order of folemn proceiTion, concluding the day
with a feilival, which is called the fcall of the
dead.

The Chaflaws are called by the traders flats, or
flat-heads, all the males havin'r the fore and hind
part of their fkulls artificially flattened, or com-
prcfled ; which is efl'ected after the following man-
ner. As foon as the child is born, the nurfe pro-
vides a cradle or wooden cafe, hollowed and fa-
fliioned, to receive the infant, lying profl:rate on its
back, that part of the cafe where the head repofes,
being faflnoncd iikc a brick mould. In this porta-
ble machine the little boy is fixed, a bag of fand
being laid on his forehead, which by continual
gentle comprcllion, gives the head fomewhat the
form of a brick from the temples upwards ; and by
thcfe means they have high and lofty foreheads,
floping off backwards. Thefe men are not fo neat
in the trim of their heads, as the Mufcogulges are,
and they are remarkably flovenly and negligent in
every part of their drefs ; but otherwife they are
faid to be ingenious, fenfible and virtuous men ;
bold and intrepid, yet quiet and peaceable, and
are acknowledged by the Creeks to be brave.

They are fuppofed to be mofl: ingenious and in-
dulbrious huibandmen, having large plantations, or
country farms, where they employ much of their
time in agricultural improvements, after the man-
ner of the white people ; by which means their ter-
ritories are more generally cukivated, and better
inhabited, than any other Indian republic that we
know of. The number of their inhabitants is faid
greatly to exceed the whole Mufcogulge confede-
racy, although their territories are not a fourth part
T 1 2 ai

5l6 TRAVELS IN

as extenfive. It appeared to me from obfervatlon,
and what information I could get, that the Indians
entertained rational notions of the foul's immortali-
ty, and of a future ftate of focial exiftence ; and
accordingly, in order to inculcate morality, and
promote human happinefs, they applaud praife-
worthy adlions, as commendable and neceffary for
the fupport of civil fociety, and maintaining the
dignity and flrength of their nation or tribe, as
fecuring an excellent and tranquil date and degree
in the world of fpirits, after their deceafe. And
they fay the Great Spirit favours all good and brave
men.

CHAP.

NORTH AMERICA. 517

CHAP. VI.

Language and Manners.

The Mufcogulge language is fpoken throughout
the confederacy, (although confifting of many na-
tions, who have a fpeech pecuhar to themfelves) as
alfo by their friends and allies, the Natches, The
Chicafaw and Cha»5taw, the IVIufcogulges fay are
dialeds of theirs.

This language is very agreeable to the ear, cour-
teous, gentle and mufical : the letter R is not
founded in one word of their language : the women
in particular fpeak fo fine and mufical, as to repre-
fent the fmging of birds ; and when heard and not
fecn, one might imagine it to be the prattling ot
young children. The men's fpeech is indeed more
ilrong and fonorous, but not harfli, and in no in-
flance guttural, and 1 believe the tttter R is not
ufed to exprefs any word, in any language of the
confederacy.

The Cherokee tongue, on the contrary, is verv
loud, fomewhat rough, and very fonorous, found-
ing the letter R frequently, yet very agreeable and
pleafant to the ear. All the Indian languages are
truly rhetorical, or figurative, airifling their fpeech
by tropes ; their hands, flexure of the head, the
brow, in fhort, every member, naturally aflociate,
and give their aiililance to render their harangues
eloquent, perfuafive and eiTettual.

The pyramidal hills or artificial mounts, and
high-ways, or avenues, leading from them to ar-
tifical lakes or ponds, vafl tetragon terraces,

chunk

5l8 TRAVELS IN

chunk yards *, and obelifks or pillars of wood, are
the only monuments of labour, ingenuity and mag-
nificence, that I have feen worthy of notice, or re-
mark. The region lying between Savanna river
and Oakmulge, Eafl and Weft, and from the lea-
coaft to the Cherokee or Apalachean mountains.
North and South, is the moft remarkable for thcfe
high conical hills, tetragon terraces and chunk
yards. This region was poffefled by the Cherokees,
fince the arrival of the Europeans, but they were*
afterwards difpoffeffed by the Mufcogulges, and all
that country was probably, many ages preceding
the Cherokee invafion, inhabited by one nation or
confederacy, who were ruled by the fame fyftem
of laws, cuiloms and language, but fo ancient, that
the Cherokees, Creeks, or the nation they con-
quered, could render no account for what purpofe
thefe monuments were raifed. The mounts and
cubical yards adjoining them, feern to have been
raifsd in part for ornament and recreation, and like-
wife to ferve fome other public purpofe, fmce they
are always fo fituated as to command the moft ex-
tenfive profpect over the town and country adja-
cent. The tetragon terraces feem to be the foun-
dation of a fortrefs ; and perhaps the great pyrami-
dal mounts, ferved the purpofe of look out towers,
and high places for facriiice. The funken area,
called by white traders the chunk yard, very likely
ferved the fame convcniency that it has been appro-
priated to it by the more modern and even prefent
nations of Indians, that is, the place where they
burnt and otherwife tortured the unhappy captives

* Chunk yard, a term given bj' the white traders, to tlie oblong four
fquarc yards, adjoining the high mounts and rotundas of the modem
Indians. — In the centre of thefe ftands the obclifk, and at each corner of the
farther end ftands a flave poU or flrong fiake, '.vhcrc the captives that are
iiirnt alive are bound.

that

NORTH AMERICA. 519

that were condemned to die ; as the area is fur-
rounded by a bank, and fometimes two of them,
cne behind and above the other, as feats, to ac-
commodate the fpedators at fuch tragical fcenes, as
well as the exhibition of games, fliows, and dances.
From the river St. Juans, foutherly to the point of
the peninfula of Florida, are to be feen high pyra-
midal mounts, with fpacious and extenfive avenues,
leading from them out of the town, to an artificial
lake or pond of water ; thefe are evidently defigned
in part for ornament or monuments of magnificence,
to perpetuate the power and grandeur of the nation,
and not inconfiderable neither, for they exhibit
fcenes of power and grandeur, and mud have been
public edifices.

The great mounts, highways, and artificial lakes
up S. Juans, on the Fall fliore, juft at the entrance
of the great Lake George, one on the oppcfite
fliore, on the bank of the Little Lake, another on
Dunn's Illand, a Httle below Charlotteville, one on
the large beautiful ifland juft: without the Capes of
Cape George, in the fight of Mount Royal, and a
fpacious one on the Well banks of the Mufquiroe
river near New Smyrna, are the mod remarkable
of this fort that occurred to me ; but undoubtedly
many more are yet to be difcovered farther South
in the peninfiila ; however I obferved none Welt-
ward, after 1 left St. Juans on my journey to little
St. Juan, near the bay of Apalache.

But in all the region of the IMufcoguIge country.
South- Weft from the Oakmulge River quite to the
Tallapoofe, down to the city of Mobile, and thence
along the fca cofl, to the MiiTiflippi, I faw no figns
of mountains or highways, except at Taenfa, where
were feveral inconfiderable conical mountains ; and

but

520 TRAVELS IN

but one inflance of the tetragon terraces, which
was at theApalachucla old town, on the Weft banks
of that river : here were yet remaining confpicuous
monuments, as vafl; four fquare terraces, chunk
yards, &c. almoft equalling thofe eminent ones at
the Oakmulge fields j but no high conical mounts.
Thofe Indians have a tradition that thefe remains
are the ruins of an ancient Indian town and for-
trefs. I was not in the interior parts of the Chac-
taw territories, and therefore am ignorant whether
there are any mounts or monuments there.

To conclude this fubjccl concerning the monu-
ments of the Americans, I deem it neceifary to
obferve as my opinion, that none of them that I
have feen difcover the leaft figns of the arts,
fciences, or architcdure of the Europeans or other
inhabitants of the old world ; yet evidently betray
every fign or mark of the moft diftant antiquity.

I 1^ D E X.

INDEX.

A GAVE vlvipara — — six

-^^ Alabama — — — 427

Alachua favanna — - ■— — 185

Alaomaha, voyage up tlie — — 47

— — — account of the — » — 51

Alligator Hole — — — 2^6

' ■ battle with an — — 248

Alligator?, battle between two — _ 1 16

■ author attacked by — — - 117, 123

■ brood of, numerous — 124
— — — — nefts of — — — 125

■ -old, feed on the young — 126

— — — — defcribed — — ib.

Amelia ifland — — 61

Amite river — «- 425

Ampelis garrulus — »— 296

Angelica lucida — — ^25

Animals and vegetables compared — x'lv

■ general obfervation on — xvj

ati'eclions of — — xvii

• mental faculties of — xviii

■ remarkable fragility of parts of 194, 276

influence of country on — 214

Annona. new fpecies of — 18, 169
Apalachucl.i — — ogi
Arum efculentum cultivated for food in Georgia and Flo-
rid;! _ — — — 46^

Arundo gignntea — — 408

Afilus, various fpecies of — ^8?

Augufla, journey to — — . 28

■ defcribed ^■- 3*» 3H

Author attacked by a fever — 409

■' violent difordcr in the eyes 416, 418

Banks

INDEX.

B

Banks of the river St. Juan higher than the adjacent

plains — — 165

Battle between cray-fifii and gold-fuli — 43

■ ■ two alligators — 116

Bears — — — 278

Bee?, none in Weft Florida, though plenty in Eatt 411

Birds, obfervations on •— xxi

r — r- on the migration of —7 ,28.0, 295

I of paflage, American — 285

— — — change ihetr colour — — 296

. wild, fing only at the time of incubation xxii, 299

IVoat, portable — r— 457

Eream, golden — 151

— ■ ■■ great black or blue — 174

■ " great yellow, or particoloured — ib.

Bridge, Indian — - — 443

Brunfwick, town of — 471

Buffalo, not now to be found where once numerous 44

Bull fmlce — — 272

Butterflies -_. — . ^— xix

C

Cacalla h.eterophylla — 162

CaiStus opuntia — — l6t

Cambekon — — 476

Cancer macrour.us, war of the gold-fifli on the 43

Cane nieadov/s, vaft — — 231

Carina Indica —7 — 424

Carica papaya — 1 29

<:_^at bird — -r- 297

Cattle, dreadful difeafe of — - 205

Cedar bird -r — '296

Chaftaws — , t— 5 ' 5

Chameleon -— — .27.6

I. harlefton, voyage from Philadejplua t(> - X

CharJotca — ' — 9^

Chat, yellow breafted — 300

Chicken fnake — —,271

Clarendon river — 47 ^

ClnV; fort of, taten greedily by caule •— 39 "

. Cleome

INDEX.

Cleoinfi luplnifolia — ^23

Clifi's, defcription of the — 433

Coachvvhip fnake — — 217

Cochineal infect — 161

Coliinfonia, fpeciesof, febrifuge — 409

Colynibu? Cauda elongaia — iyy

Convolvulus dilfedlus — — \oz

fCooIouie town — — 3C)4

Cornus florida — — 390

Cov/e — — 350, 364.

Coweta — i 38 7

Cow-pen, account of a — 308

Crane, ftight of the — — 144

■ • nefts and eggs of the — 199

favanna — — 21 S

Creeks, Upper, alliance of, wiih the Engl illi 53

' account of the — 208,463

•■ ■ ■ Lower, or Simi;ioIes — 209

Crofs-Creeks — — 475

Crown bird — 296

Crying bird — — 145

Cucurbita lagcnaria — 477

CuprefTus difticha — 88

' new fpecies of — . 409

Curlews, Spanilh — 146

Cufcowilla, journey to — 16S

— — — — defcription of — i S9

Cyprinus coronarius — — 151

D

IDeer, herd of — -^^ 19S

Diona:a niiifcipufa — xiil, 470

Dog brought up to tend horfcs — 220

Dove, ground — — g

Dyeing, bark of the gordonia lafipnthus ufcful in 160

Eagles, various — — S

Earth, on the produce of the different 7ones of the ix

remarks 01; certain flrata of - 433

Elks only to be found in :hc Apaiachcan mountains 45

Emberiza ory?ivora * — 294

Fphenjer;«

INDEX.

Ephcir.eroc - - - 78—81

Erythrvna corallodendrum - - 160

Faico plfcatorius - - - S

Falling Creek - - - 339

Fafcinating power of the r.ittlefnake - 263

Febrifuge virtues of a fpecles of Collinfonia - 409

Felis Cauda truncata - - - 278

Fern, curious fpecies of - - 476

Firti, red-belly - - - rz

— — — vaft quantity of, in the river St. Juans - 121

of prey and others living peaceably together in pellucid

vi^ater _ - - 164^ 166, 227

Fifhing, mode of - - - 106

Flat-rock - - - 374

Flie?, various fpeeies of * 383

Florida, journey to - ~ SS

■■ Eaft, very good Indigo made in 75

Weft, journey to - - 373

Fort Moore - - - - 313

' James - - 3**

— — Prince George Keowe - - 328

Fox _ _ _ - 278

— fquirrels - - 279
Fragility, extraordinary in animals - 194> 276
Franklinia Alatamaha - - 465
Frederica, town and fort of - . 60
———. voyage to - - 3*^3
French fettlement - - 43^

■ broken up by the Indians, - 43*

Frogs, various fpecies of - - 272

G

Garr, great brown fpotted - - 173

Georgia, voyage to - - - 4

— iflands on the coaft of - 5> ^5

•' —————why thinly inhabited 64

Gerardea flammea - - 4'o

Glafs-fnake . - - - '93

Gold fiih, war of, on the cray fi(h - 43

■ ■ defer i bed - . - - 44

Gopher - - - 18, 180

Gordonia

INDEX.

Gordonia lafianthus - - ifg
Gourd, ufeful fpecies of - - 477
Gtape vines - - - 84, 398
Grapes, Indian mode of preferving - 308
Grafs, peculiar fpecies of - -128
Graves, Indian - - - i -ly
Green fnake - - - - 271
Grus pratenfis, flight of the - - iaa
' nefts and eggs of the - iqq
' defcribed - - - 218

H

Halefia diptera, variety of - - ^og

Half-way pond - - - j^^.

Hawk, iirtiing - - ,3

engaged with a fnake - - 216

'03

Hibifcu5, fpecies of - - ig^ 10,^

coccineus

102

Hippobofca - - - - 78 z

Honefty, advantages of - - ■ 35 1

Horn fnake - - - 2jz

Horfcs, Siminole, of the Spaniili breed - 21*

• kept by a dog - . _ 22Z

-■■ large Itud of - - "351

■ fondnefs of, for falc - - ,^ *

— fingular mode of taming - -.^^

- flies extremely troublcfome to - 084
Hurricane - - - 139, 384
Hydrangia quercifolia - - _ ^gg

I

Indian pot, curious - - _ g

— — — interview with an - - 21

— ■ remarks on the moral principle of an - 22

people, a peculiar race of - - 2 c

towns, remains of - 37, 196, 343, 388

fagacity - - - 3,^

mode of killing trout - - 44

village - - - 90

' wife of a white man, mifcondud of an 109

■ deferts the author - - - 11 »

— ceraetry - - - 137

Indian

INDEX.

Indian chiefs
■• . . . foup

towns - 189,

• piiniiLiTient for adultery

• public buildings

— — ^— antiquities - 322,

■ feflivals

• towns and villages, lifts of
. lan'^ua^es

• wedding

■ chief's revenge on a trader cauglit

wife
- ' ftandard -•

■ painting and fculpture

■ canoes
jelly

■ niufic

i drinking boat

■ women, artifice of
games

Indians, remarks on the

■ - ■ ■ treaties with the

■ ■ ■ food of

' ■ plunder the (lores

• matters accommodated with the

■ virtues of

■" ■ ■ veneration of, for the rattlcfnake
-^— — form of falutation amongft

vifu to the

■—manners and cuftoms of the

189,

^^5' ^I'yi l^^

189

327, 348, 384, 394

211,446. 513

302, 365,448,452

365, 370,455. 519

233.367.449. 507

37 1 , 461

386,461, 463, 517

444. 5^ »
in adultery with his

446
453
454
225
239
24j. 503

253
254

506
xxiii, 184, 208

33.235
38
61

76

22, I 10, 208, 488

258

182

ib,

182, 184, 189, 207,

349. 367. 448.

365, 386, 395, 444

210

— habitations of the

— vices of the

— wars of the - 211,390

— migration of the - 378

— malfacre of the whites by - 388 mle

— roving difpofkion of the - 389
— . carry off" a party of emigrants 444

— murder fonie white travellers - 235

— hunting party of - - - -2.\x

— party of, in purfuit of an adulterer 24.3

— fondnefs of, for fpirits - - 253

— conference with - - 255

— perfons and qualifications of the - 481

— government and civil fociety of the 492
. — drefs, feafts, and diverfions of - 499

Indians

INDEX.

Indians property, agriculture, arts, and manufa6hires of

the . _ _" 509

— — — marriage ceremonies of tbe - 512

■ funeral ceremonies of the - 51 ^

indigo, very good, made in Eaft Floritia - 75

Ipomea, fpecies of - - - 374
Iron ore - - 221,376,401

Iflands on the coaft of Georgia - 5> 65

»\vliy thinly inhabited 64

floating - - - 86

• in Lake George - - I op

Ifle of Palms - - : ^5S

J

Jelly, Indian - - - 239

Jorc mountains - - 360

Journey to Cufcowilla - - x68

-' - Talahafochte - 213

• from Charlefton to the Cherokee country 306

■ over the Jore mountain - 357
——— from Fort Charlotte to Weft Florida - 375

■ fi'om Apalachucia to Mobile - 394

— • Savanna to Philadelphia - 467

juglans, manner in which the Indians ufe the fruit of a

fpecies of - " 3^

K

Kalmia, new fpecies of - - 18

Keowe - - - - 32S

Lacerta, fpecies of « - 170, 276

Lake Ouaquaphenogaw - 24

George - - - - 99

Lantana camerara - - joi

Laurel magnolia - - - _ g^

Lettuce, Indian - ~ , .^

Liberty, obfervations on - - 184

Lime, wild - - 112

Li/ard, fpecies of - - 170,276

Lupin, fpecies of - irj

Lynx - - - 278

Magnolia,

INDEX.

M

Magnolia, kurel — 83

__^_— peculiar fpecies of *- 159, 33S

____—— grandiflora — 169

- auriculata — — 337

Malva, various fpecies of — 325

Manate Spring — — 228

Meleagris occidentalis — 14. 81

Mice, white — — 277

Milk, hiccory ^ — 38

Mimofa fenfitiva, new fpecies of — 24

. — virgata — — 419

..„ , pudica — 428

Mifliflippi river — ' — 425

Mobile, journeyf rom Apalachucla to 394

■ town of "— — 402.

Moccafin fnake — ^68, 269

Moral principle of an Indian, remarks on the ^z

Motacilla trochilus — — 300

Mount Royal — — 9^

MudfiHi _ — 174

Mufcicapa vertlce nigro — -297

Mufcle, horned — — 43^

Myrica inodora — 403

N

Natural produ£lions, obfervations on — x

New-Smyrna — — ^4*

Nymphaea nelumbo — 4^7

Nyfla coccinea — — *7

O

Oak, black — — 37

Ocean appears to have gained on the land of America 66

Oenothera grandiflora — - . """ ^^"^

Oil, fweec, obtained from the fruit of the live oak 83

Olive, Indian — — 41

Palm tree — — : , " ^

Palmetto

IMDEX.

Palmetto rDyal — .^ g^

Panicum hirtellum — 42 S

Parakeet — — 299

Pearl Ifland — 419

Pelican defcribed — 68

wood — — 149

Penfacola, account of — 413

Petrifaflions — — 473.475

Phyfic-nut — 41

Pica glandaria cerulea non criftata — ly©

Picolata, fort — — y8

Pigeon?, mode of catching — 467

Pine fnake — — 272

Piftia ftratiotcs — 8,6

Pitch, how made from tar — 417

Plains, barren — — 240

Plants various, obfervatioiis on — x

new — 16,31,393,415,434,465,466

Plum, new fpccies of — 421

Pot, Indian, curious — — 6

Prinos, curious fpecies of — 477

Pfittacus Carolinienfis — 299

Pceris Icandens — — . 276

R

Rana:, various fpecies of -«j- 27 1

Rat, large ground — — -

——wood — — 122

Rattlefnake, veneration of the Indians for the 258

■ — account of the — - 262
• — fafcinarcs its prey -— 262

■ does no injury unlefs attacked 262, 264
— — — — — baftard, or ground — 270
Rhododendron, fpecies of «— 354.
Ribband fnake — —271
Rice, culture'of — it
Rice bird — —
River, remarkably clear —
Rjbinia, fpecies of — — 3^3
Ifocky point — — 166
Ruins, Indian •— 37, 53
■■■ ' ■ of a French or Spanifh fort $z

Sage, tall blue — ,— ' 410

M m Saint

294

222

INDfX.

Saint John's, voyage to — — . g'S

— — Juan, Little, river — 222

'"— Simon, account of the ifland of — 56

Salt, fondnefs of horfes for — ^54

Sarracenia flava — -^ xit

— — — — lacunofa — 41,^

Savanna, journey from, to Augufta -« 28

Sea cow — -.— 230

Senfitive plant, new fpecies of ^— 24

^.helly, folfile, hili of — 316

Silphium, fpecies of -«- — 306

Siuiinoles, account of the — * 209, 436

Sinica, town of -— — 327

Sink, Great — ;* 201

Slavery, obfervations on — 184

Slaves, on the treatment of — 309

^imilax pfeudo-china ufed as food — 239

Snake, confli(St of a, with a hawk — 216

Snake bird — -— 130

Snake, various kinds of — 193,217,262—72
Soils, obfervations on 23, 29, 168, 397, 420, 429

Spanifli feitlement, remains of — 231

Squirrel, various fpecies of — 279

Standard, Creek — — i^q

Stores plundered by the Indians - - 6jl

Storm, thunder - - 13, 139, 341, 38^

' advantages of a 1— —

Sua fiih — -—

75
»5<

Taenfa — .—

Faenfapno river — 422

403

Talahafochte

224

Tallow nut — — 112

Tana^e, river — 337

Tantalus piffus -~ •» i^:^

, -__albus — 146

• verficolor — — i^i,

• — loculator — 147

Teftudo plvphemus — j8, 180

nalo cylindraceo elongato — 175

■ various fpecies of *— 277

'1 liunder ftorm . - 13,341

7"i}landfia lingulata - . _ .59

Tillandfia

INDEX.

Tlllandfia ufneoides
Tortoife, great land

foft Hielled

— — various fpecies of

Travelling, mode of

Trour, American mode of catching

■ — — defcribed

Turkc}-, American

8>

18, iBtj

277

438

106

X07

14, 8t

Uchc town

U

3SO

V

Verbena, fpecigs of
Vultur facra
■aurea

454-
44S
T50

VV

Wampum fnake

.69

Wars of the Indians

21 1, 390

Water, hot mineral

M5

—— pellucid, curious bafon of

IKJy 163

i04, 223,244, 345

>^*-d'«f- avt tnt i/-\r\ rtf-

z^

Wax tree

403

Whatoja, town of

348

White Plains

429

Wolf, narrow efcape from a

156

American

197, 278

Wrighifburough

3S

X

Xantlioxylum clava Herculis

Yucca glorlofa

69

Zamia piimila

160

Directions to the BjneerJ

Place the Map at the beginning of the work.

—Plate I to face - - - p. i8

■"■ 2 to follow - - - pi. I

— — — 3 to face - * P- ^ 5 5

~ 4 - . - p. 175

^^ - . 176

. 6 - " - - - 380

7 - , ^ 4"4

/-Jr-